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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 5, 1908)
0 THE SIN DAY oi:i;t;oNi..N, iorti-and. april 1008. -1 . . i i i. i i I, , , KKE5FQnF11C&C f fA3niH5 & PtMJTf : fl 7 7- ; . Outdoor Toggery for Spring ' (k Complexion and Spring Winds sIIERE is always hope for , the I house frock. Tt can bo made over ?o long: as fabrics hold tofrether. Add just the ripht sort of trimming, a bit of lane, or up-to-dato embroidery, a new chemisette or yoke, and behold, your "Win ter afternoon dress is rehabilitated for Spring; uses. put there can be no such compromise with "Winter outdoor raiment. It every defect and its slightest suggestion of Winter modes nrc betrayed by the re lentless if balmy Spring sunUpht. So, if you will and can, make over your silk house dress and your net evening frock, but do not waste much time or cash trying to re-furbish coats, skirts, jackets or completo suits for the street. Unquestionably this is a season of smartly tailored attire for the street. When the skirt is short, say four inches from the ground, it is perfectly hung, and is so chic that it mak-'S its wearer look almost Parisian. We ape showing In this connection a most satisfactory model in the new walking skirt, with matching, shaped girdle and spats or cloth-top shoes. 1 1 is the ideal skirt for Tainy weather, for shopping, for walking excursions, golf and similar outdoor pastimes. Jt can be made from a great variety of fabrics, wool or linen, and it may be made perfectly plain, or. if its wearer is tall enouch to carry the rimmed skirt, folds or braid may bo applied to the side gores. The kirt is cut in seven "tores and is laid in pleats. Four yards of double width ma terial inches) is required for this de sign. Skirts of this sort are sren on the streets of all large cities, and are worn by wonif-u from t to :w. They demand the not tiest of foot wear, tailored shirt waists, smartly tailored jackets and what might bf termed a tailored hat. rough straw trimmed with stiff bows and wings or quills. The picture hat is absolutely out of place with suh a skirt. A stunning combination seen on a girl of about 22. shopping in a fashion able store, showed a combination of dull blues and grays. The skirt and jacket were of broken check in the two colors, the tailored shirtwaist was of dull gray surah silk, made with a double pleating down the front of the center, whit turnover collar and tie of the silk. The shoes were- black pat ent leather wit h dull gray cloth tops. The hat was dull gray straw sailor trimmed with great wings in various shades of blue and gray completely cov ering the crown and most of the brim. The gloves were dull gray suede, and to cap the combination, the girl wore iolets at her belt. The outtng skirt naturally suggests outing shirt waists, for. with the return of Spring, tennis courts and golf links ; tako on new life. The outing skirt is distinctive and fs not suited for wear j with tailored skirt on the street or 1 in the house. The real outdoor girl wears over such a waist, a bright scar- Etiquette for AFTRR taking a few trips In the average trolley car of a large city, the student of human nature feels that an entire volume might be written on this one tor1 alone. It is all very well to say hat under modern traffic condi tions there is no time for politeness, for with conductors calling "Step lively," passengers nitist hurry in the interest of physical safety. This is a fallacious ar gument. Conductors take their cue from the traveling public, and as a nation we say we are driven, when we are merely rude. CVldly enough, the average woman in public 1c as rude as the average, man. When a fellow guest at dinner picks up her gloves or fan, she rewards him with gracious smile and carefully worded phrases. "When a tired workman rises on the streetcar to give her his scat, she merely inclines her head or moves her lips in perfunctory acknowledgment and accepts the seat as her right, not as a courtesy. The well-bred woman knows just how far to go in acknowledging streetcar courtesies, whether siie accepts a man's seat or receives at his hands the parcel or umbrella che dropped in -the crush. And ou can tell whether she is well-bred by the way in which the man accepts her acknowledgment. If he raises his hat and looks virtuously rewarded, you may bo sure sho has done the gracious thing. If he wears that "I-wonder-why-I-did-it" look, you may be sure she made no ac knowledgment at all. If he preens him self like a gay Robin Redbreast and , smirks and tries to make conversation, i ou may be sure that the woman took the initiative and accompanied her thanks with a flirtatious glance. 1 Women and girls who are well man- j nered in their own social circle seem to I throw discretion and gentleness to the ; winds when they board a public convey ance. They stare at other women in ,a most annoying fashion, pass remarks in stage whispers and talk private affairs in a voice which carries the length of the , car. Very few women know how to pitch 1 their oiees beneath the roar of traffic. 1 consequently they scream a hove it. and j other passencers are reald with inter- ' estlng information regarding "John s' d? linq'iem'ics and the latest scandal in the Joneti family. Another annoying trick peculiar to women is this: When two or three have been shopping together, they board a homeward bound train or car to Mud s altered seats. Instead of politely ask ing some man to move 50 that they can it together, one woman takes a vacant sat and her friends stand before her and Effective (latin shirt. let or all-white sweater, or a loose, long tourist coat. The wrap is discarded as a rule, when games are played and therefore the outing shirt must be ef fective. For the cooler Spring days on tennis court or links, shirts are made of non shrinking flannel with a silky finish, gen erally in a plain color or an ifrfrattessimal stripe. Some fine checks in these Spring flannels are also shown, but they are less effective than stripes. In wash mate rials, percales French, not domestic). Madras, Knglish shirtings, which can be bought only from shirtmakers for men, linen, pongee and high grade white wash silk are all excellent for the outing shirt. A good pongee waist in natural tint makes a stunning combination with a plain brown, cheeked or striped skirt. A modified Peter Pan outing shirt is shown today. It has a plain back, a yoke and full blouse front, the three quarter sleeves with the turn-back cuffs, the rolling collar and tiny pocket so dear to the outdoor girl. It will require S1 yards of the average wash material, 32 to 36 "inches wide. The third design shows a most pleas ing tourist coat in seven-eighths length. But It's name is misleading. It should bo called a handy coat, because, it is such a useful garment. Made in waterproof cloth, it will answer all the purposes-of a raincoat, and yet it will come fresh from the tailor's, fit for wear on an au tomobile ride, a day's shopping in a dis tant city, or general traveling purposes, and it is just the garment to wear to the golf links or over a short skirt when markftinjr is to be done. ft will require. 4'x yards of double width cloth, and the buttons should be made of the cloth or match the cloth In Nine. WliPti rainproof cloth is used (and yon can got an excellent quality at ?3 a yard in a wide range of fine mix tures t, the cuffs, collar, lapel, etc., are finished simply with stitching, but when fancy English tweed is used, in broken stripes, chocks, or a vague pattern in dull coloring, then the lapels, cuffs, etc., are done in some brightly tinted plain broadcloth. On a blue coat, a brilliant red may be used, or canary yellow. On dull tans and browns, a brilliant blue, and even bright pink and lavender are used in strong contrast. The last figure shown is a Fplendid model for a late Spring and Summer evening coat without sleeves, the fluffy undersleeves of the frock and long gloves being sufficient protection in warm weather. This design was made up in natural -toned pongee with embroidered Oriental bands. It could be made from any heavy silk, with trimming of filet lace, plain or embroidered, or in net over silk, with embroidered bands, or even in the simpler basket cloth, with trimming of stitched silk bands or heavy lace. Tt is a wrap which will also appear In linen trimmed with imitation Trish. to be worn over lingerie frocks with lace ruffled sleeves. : MARY tRAN the Streetcar comment audibly on the bad manner? of men w ho "haven't sense enough to take other seats. Some of the sneers indulged in by women under such circumstance! would rouse the ire of any man and make him sit stubbornly in the coveted place until the terminus is ( reached. A soft request will work miracles even in a streetcar, but a harsh and unladylike sneer has been known to start a riot. There are certain courtesies which a woman abroad may expect, not demand of men, and she will generally get them if she bears herself as a lady should. When a number of persons are waiting for a car, the women have the preference in boarding the car when it arrives. All the men stand hack, even those who are escorting women, until all the women board tho conveyance. In leaving the car, on the other hand, the men (go first and assist women under their protection. When an aged man or woman, or a young woman with a babe in arms, boards a crowded car. and no man rises to provide a seat, a younger woman, and particularly a young girl, is entirely justi fied in rising and offering hers. When a man accompanying a woman cannot find two seats together, he stands In front of the woman, even though he could have a seat further down the car. A woman must acknowledge with. "Thanks" any courtesy shown her bv a man on a car. and, in return, he acknowl edges her appreciation by raising his hat. He also raises his hat when he offers her a seat or when he proffers her the parcel or umbrella he has picked up for her. When a woman meets a man she knows on a car, even if he crosses the out r ci beside her. she opens her purse and pays her fare precisely as if he were not there Occasionally a friend of the family or iCiaL'vw "r eiorrjy man will quietlv pav the fare before the woman has a chance to open her purse. 7n this case it is bad ; form to protest. A simnle "thank Is sufficient. PRUDENCE STANDISH. i I An Intemperate Sony. , -tw 1 ors J!.venins Sun. There was a maid lived in the South. Inrt an nliU-h mni .... ,.,lvt x sue. Sh advertised fer a hub one dav. Who a Northern man must be! For I've waited here and I've waited Ions. But nobody comes:' she cried So in the North The word went forth To a territory wide. 't"hfre t as a man from Harlem Who journeyed to the South. The roads were dry. and dusty, too. As also wa his mouth. He walked into a hnstelrv. His wtnstlf thre to wet; He had no fear. He asked for beer He s in the cooler yet. There was a man from Boston. Mjul. A literary pent; He traveled down to Dixieland And cultured as he went. He afd the air ww bracing and Intoxicated him Th y tied him fast A nd quickly mst Him into a dungeon dim. A traveler from Milwaukee. Wis., Went dew n the Mi6s!s,1p. When he went down he had the blue Be-'ause he had the trip. H- IJ beneath the oiithrn sun He frit his spirits rise The whistle Mew. The Sheriff flew. And In a, cell he lies. Thre was a. nun from Morrlstown Who traveled down the line. And there he met this oldish maid And vowed he was divine Now. as he swore devotion tru. He hli-rouphcd. filing scared Sh turned away. She proaned. they say. And oberly declared: "Be tin, my beating- heart, be stilt. And calmly let me choose. For I stand tw lx( love and duty Tes; I stand twixt love and booie." He f.Mly pressed her to him tight And whimpered. "Let us fly!- So t hey run away And wrr wd r-xt day In a country not eo dry. ' FAEMNC SOME APPETIZING LATE LENTEN DISHES A 9 Lent draws to a close the house wife who has been obeying strietly the church regulations has trouble in tempting the family appetite. The members of her household rebel against fish and e?rgs, and develop un-Lenten ap petites for forbidden flesh-pots. Here are some tempting dishes that will make Lenten dishes a pleasure, not a penance: Onion Soup Milanese. Melt half a cupful of butter in a frying pan, and when golden brown, add three onions cut in thin slice?. Fry these until they are transparent: cover with a lid and set far back on the stove to simmer or steep for an hour. Add a quart of milk and bring to a boil. Toast half a dozen squares of bread a eolden brown, and lay these in a piping hot tureen. Pour over the toast the boiling soup and scatter over the top of this half a cup ful of crated Parmesan or other rich cheese. 1 Fish Canape. Here, as in most Lenten recipes, milk or cream takes the place of meat or meat stock. Melt two tablespoons of butter and fry In it half a chopped onion. Po not allow this to brown, but rub into it smoothly one tablespoon of flour. Now add slowly, one pint 'of very rich milk, or if you nave it, cream. "When the sauce thickens add one pint of flaked crab meat, halibut, whitefish or cod. which has been cooked and carefully picked over, so that oily the white meat remains. Flavor with salt, cayenne pepper, and bring to a boil onee. Have ready round pieces nf toast, loss than half an inch thick, which have been toasted on one side only. Cover the toasted side with the creamed fish and spread with the following mixture: Half a cup of butter, half a pound of prated cheese, rubbed together with paprika. Pet your canapes on a buttered tin and color golden brown in the oven. Kggs In Cheese Sauce. A supper course io be made in the chafing dish. Melt a heaping tablespoon of butter in the blazer, add one table spoon of flour and stir until smooth, then ndd two cups of milk and stir until a creamy sauce results. Ilavor with a teaspoon of salt, a dash of red pepjKr. one small taspon of "Won-este rehire sauce. Finally add on cupful of f?ratd tiieese, .When the cheese is melted WRAP TO Blfi WORNOVER SIMMER break into the sauce as many eggs as the blazer will hold, being careful not to break the yolks. When the eggs are well set, or poached, serve with the sauce on pieces of toast. If you have no chafing dish, use a porcelain lined skillet on gas or coal stove. Tomato Toast. Allow a large circular piece of toast Out! hk Coat for Roach A ear. GOWS. for each person. On this lay a medium thick slice of tomato (raw and un skinnei). Over this tomato scatter finely minced green peppers, and onions, a little salt and some grated American or Kdam cheese. Have, your oven very hot. or better still, if you have a gas stove, use the broiler. Set your slices of tomato on toast in a shallow baking pan. place this in a hot oven or under the broiler jets, and cook until the cheese is melted and lightly browned, sufficient time also to cook the tomato. Shrimp Fritters. Take three well-beaten eggs, quarter of a cup of milk, tablespoon of melted but ter, and a pinch of salt and make mto a smooth batter. Take half a pound of picked shrimps and chop up quite finely with a sliver knife, and stir into this mixture. Add enough stale bread crumbs to make quite a stiff batter. Drop by tablespoon fuls Into a pot of boiling fat. and try a golden brown. Drain on a piece of thick brown paper, and serv;e with a rich white drawn butter to which has been added a chopped hard boiled egg and a little tomato juice for color ing matter. Garnish the dish with cress or parsley. Creamed Salt Codfish. Pick the cod in small pieces. Soak one and a half cups of this picked fish in warm water for half an hour. Drain off and add two cups of white sauce sea soned with pepper. Add two eggs slightly beaten just before serving. Serve on toast with hard-boiled eggs diced over it. Some families like this dish with half a cup .of grated cheese added to it. Allow the cheese to melt In the sauce before adding the eggs. The Men With the Good. Baltimore Sun. Tbe world doesn't value the man with the Muff; Of four-fluhing fellow it's bad quite enough ; The world wants the men that are there every time When the clock etrikee the hour, the bell rings the chime: The men wfto are faithful and true and sincere. With a heart that Is willing to work with g-ood cheer; Xot mn who go whistling with fear thro' the woods The .world wants the men that can come with the goods.' The mn with the poods are the men for th hour. To lead to success with, their vim and their xrowerl. MATU'H winds and April showers may bring forth Kaster bonnets crowned with May flowers, hut they arc also extremely tryhng on the complexion. The skin of the face is more deli cate than, that of any other part of the body, and it has the least protec tion from sudden changes of h.cat and cold. The woman who has been in the house all day, with steam heat or stoves holding the temperature at 70 or even more, is very apt to start out on an errand toward dusk, when the wind is raw and untempered by sun shine, with her overheated skin unpro tected from the sharp wind. Return ing home she realizes that her face is filled with dust, so she washes it in tpid water, with or without soap, dabs on a bit of powder and dresses for the evening meal. Some; one at the table remarks that her face is very red, and she replied earelessly that it is always so in the Spring. No tomorrow nor next week, but months and perhaps years later, she will be shedding tears over a skin which Is thick, hard, coarse and rough. The price of a good complexion Is eternal vigilance,, aid especially must this vigilance be maintained during the changeable Spring weather. First. keep your skin properly cleansed, whether you are going out doors or not. If the skin is oily, add a dozen drops of tincture of beneoln to a basin of hot water and use a pure, tin seen tei soap with a flesh brush or piece of Turkish toweling. Have the first water quite hot and then for rinsing, gradually reduee the tempera ture. Da not make the common mis take of washing the faee clean with hot water and soap and then dashing very cold rinse water on It. AH ex tremes of heat and cold are bart for th$ skin. If you have a very dry skin, with a tendency to crack, chap or scale, buy one ounce of white vaseline (common yellow vaseline will not do, and eight grains of rosorcih (a fine, white crys talline substance). Put the two in a double boiler or in a china bowl set in n pan of simmering water. When the resorcin crystals are thoroughly dissolved remove the mixture from the fire and beat until cool. Keep in a atone jar. Resorcin is a most effective germ killer, and many skin ailments can be traced to bacteria. Before re tiring rub this thoroughly Into the skin until it is entirely absorbed. In the morning wash the face with hot water and a very mild soap, dry thor oughly and powder'lightly. Before exposing your race to wind Some Home-Made Trimmings THIS Is an ideal fashion year for the deft needlewoman, as the trim mings and accessories are of the. sort where showy stitchcry is required rather than infinitely pninstaking. em broidery. The latter is still seen in fine lingerie blouses, but on the whole the woman who docs not embroider any too well, but who is quirk with the needle and secures clev&r effects and color com binations, is now having her inning. First, It is a year of braiding. The reign of soutaehe'and novelty braids Is undisputed. This requires no training whatever. Have your pattern stamped If you want something elaborate and sew your fine soutache braid on by hand, stretching it taut. You will find it on the smartest imported models of cloth, silk' and linen, on the collar, cuffs, vest, pocket lapels, revers and in bands around the skirts. SNmple designs can be traced with perforated patterns of your own making. Braid Is also used to form ornaments and buttons. For this purpose it is in terwoven, sometimes in one color, and sometimes in two. The woman who can embroider rapidly can get beautiful effects by buying broad silk hercules braid and embroidering it in large conventional designs. A stun ning effect was thus obtained in a suit of biscuit-colored cloth. The hercules braid in self-tone was embroidered at Intervals in trefoils of deeper biscuit tints In soft creamy browns and a dash of gold thread. To do this work you must baste crinoline under your light weight braid to keep the ernbroidery firm. The embroidered braid of this sort was used on the blouse only, out lining the cuffs and a deep chemisette of tucked net. ' Filet net is also embroidered and can be bought in -strips or in dress width. The conventional pattern used on this is a darning stitch, and is very easy to do, as the filet net has a square mesh and the spaces can be counted, making con ventional patterns as easy as working on canvas. For one of the new frocks In blue-green, beautiful bands of filet net embroidered with dull green, blue and gold may be used for trimming the blouse. Embroidered filet is a favorite trimming for the new Summer silks, grenadines and net gowns. No bit of colored embroidery is to be despised this year. Perhaps you have some left-over strips of silk embroidery in conventional or flower designs. The foundation may be worn and the design be perfect. Cut out the latter, applique It on filet net banding, outlining tho edge of each bit of embroidery with a fine gold braid or button-hole stitching in gold thread. F.dge the entire filt banding with narrow French Val, or imitation Cluny lace, sewed on flat, and you have a stunning trimming for your new silk blouse or gown. Any home sewer who can make Irish crochet or point lace is strictly in the swim just now. Beautiful blouses of filet or princess net are shown with sp pliques ol Irish crochet. Trefoil, nar row leaf and conventional daisy designs, varying in size from one inch to five, are used in this connection. Irish point lace in narrow, fine patterns Is used to outline turnover collars and trim edges of neckwear. But it is in making the buttons that the home dressmaker can best show her skill. Jeweled, enameled and braid but tons are all offered at the shops, but the preferred button is a part of the gown itself, evolved from cloth, silk, velvet, braid and embroidery. Beautiful velvet and cloth buttons are. embroidered in contrasting tints with knots. wheels, spider and fleur de lis designs. I-arge buttons are made from cloth or velvet and almost hidden by soutache or gold braid, crossed and recrossed over them. Silk buttons to match frocks are em broidered or touched up with French knots and then surrounded by tiny frills of Val., Chantiliy or imiuu .iuuj MART DEAN. lace. Pockets Made for Women. Philadelphia Record. "It is remarkable how many women are leaning toward masculinity in the matter of pockets," said a salesman in a Market-street department store. The demand at present i so great that now in almost every garment in tended lor .women one of more pockets nd daft, provide every puss i hi r pro tection. Rub into It all the g.i.. ernm tb pures will hM. int rln n.n iave It greasy or oily. J enn furnish my c- rr. s pendents with the formula for a perfectly pure cream ennm inhig no lanoline or other antmal fat to en roitra ge the jrrpwth of hair. It has often been published in this column. -o I am not repeating It today, but will do so oit receipt of stamped and self addressed envelope. When the ereum Is absorbed, dust the fneo lightly with a good face powder, and then drape over It chiffon or silk veiling, not ih open net veiling with dots. The la Iter Is no protection whatever. AY hen you return f rom your walk or drive, do not immediately rush to tho bathroom and wash your face. Wait un til the rednoss and burning subside; then attack the lirt with hot water, and final ly bathe the fsee with the following cu cumber lotipn: Oil of swfet almonds. 4 on 11 res; fresh cucumber juiee. 1A ounces: essence, of cu cumbers. t ounces; white castilo soap (powdered 1, oune ; tincture of ben zoin, 2-3 of a drachm. The important factor In this lotion Is the cucumber. To obtain the juice, slice the cucumbers, skin and all. add Just enough water to prevent scorching and simmer until they are soi and rpuThy. Strain through a hair sieve and then through a cloth. Tt will take a number of large eueumbrs fvcM' ripe ones are best to make 12 ounces of the Juice. For the essence, mix an ounce and a half of the Juice and an equal quantity of pnre, aleohot (?6 per cent). Put the soap and esnnee In a laree bottle, firmly corked, and shake vigorously at intervals until the soap is dissolved. Add the cucum ber juico and turn into a china, bowl, then add gradually. . stirring all tho while, the benzoin and the oil of alm onds, until you have a creamy fluid. Keep it tightly corked in a large bottle. In a dark place, and for your dressing table have a smaller bottle which is re filled from time to time. A word of warning as'fo face powder. Po you know the ingredients of yo'ur fa vorite powder? Or do you like its feel" or its perfume, or the label on the pretty box? If it contains lead, .arsenic mer cury or bismuth. you arp slowly but surely ruining your skin. I will be glad to furnish any "of my' readers with a re liable formula for making an exquisite face nowdr. This will cost you as much or perhaps more; than the brand you have been buying at the drugstore, and you will have to take infinite p;iins in mixing it, hut in tho end you may lit erally save your skin. KATHKRINK MORTON. are to be found. In the latest hosiery, pockets are woven in the stockings when they are made. The newest of knitted silk shirts are also equipped with pockets, and many nightdresses of the higher grade have. small pock ets in the garment. The fashionable Hnaa a .1 mitrri invurlnlilv contain I more than one securely hidden and fastened poeKet. liven enterprising milliners are making tiny pockets in the tops of their most expensive hats. These pockets, which of necessity are very small, are completely hidden un der the lining of the hat. The midwin ter gauntlet glove is provided with two pockets tltched on the outside. One of them laps over and snaps, and is used for small change, and the other Is a patch pocket and is intended for the handkerchief, which is allowed to stick out and ruffles at the top." Washing Silk Handkerchiefs. In washing silk handkerchiefs car should be taken to prevent their turning yellow. One should never be boiled, nor have any soap rubbed on it. ' Make a lather of finely shredded whit soap and water. wa.sh and squeeze the handkerchief in it. press out all the mois ture possible, and dry quickly in the sun. Iron them-whlle they are still damp, but not wet. White silk handkerchiefs used as neck ties are sometimes cleaned very well with dried and powdered starch in which a little powdered blue has been mixed. The handkerchief is spread over a clean linen clotti: with a pad of clean white linen, powder is rubbed over tho silk, then dusted out. Iron with a moderately hot iron. Two folds of slightly dampened linen are laid over the silk on the right side. This brightens It considerably. The Debutante rlnr Bride'. Let's see what's trumps? O, rjraee, your hat a dear. And so becomhiK. too. Girl?, did yeu hear That Clara (lotrox is encafrcd at taft. And to a t'ount with a dreadful- past And not a penny to his titled name? J dote on bridge: it's such & clover game. Let's Bfc what's trumps?! There's Catherine over there. And. entre nous, I hear she dyes her hair And' paints; but I might, too. with such a f . (Oh, partner, did I really trump your ace?) Who is that freak three tables to the rlffht? I paw her at the Wilbur-Brow ri-'s last nlsrhr; Some parvenu, no doubt, and, gmine.-s knows, I think a blacksmith must drsien her clothes. Are hearts or diamonds trunips? Oh, that's a faet. It's clubs. SV,nie sirls are so devoid of fart: That Carletrui creature In the last year's hat Just nalces me mad as mad she's such a rat. And nearly snaps r head off If you don't Keep absolutely dumb: of course I won t. Oh. pirls. Jack's so devoted It's a joke; He's o.uite my shadow-. What! l!d I re voke? Well, aiiway. I think it's mean to take Three trl, ks from me for just that small niislake. ". Bridge bores me frightfully, t'm hound to Though Jack says it's astounding h play. Why v.-f'i some hostesses Invite n t such frumps? Oh. dear my learl ajain? Let's see what's trumps? Nrv. Walking Skirt.
