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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 1, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 1, 1908. mmm-j 1MJ11IMM l LMMMMM- - March Winds A N D T HE COMPLEXION Your Manners AND THE MINISTER THE most common fault with the woman who treats her complexion at home Is her lack of persever-am-e. The woman with a fat purse pat ronize a beauty parlor and pays some one to persevere for her. Nine out of 10 cases she could accomplish the same result at home with simple remedies If only she would spend a little more time regularly before her own toilet table. Do not imagine that spasmodic applications of remedies will bring good results. It Is the patient, regu lar application that, In due time, will bear fruit. At this season of the year, when much suffering Is caused by the blus tering winds and the dust that is al most ground into the skin by force of thee dreaded March breezes, an ounce of prevention is worth more than the proverbial pound of cure. Before go ing out, some, healing cream should be rubbed Into the skin, then a pure, hygienic powder should be dusted over the face. In cold weather scented soap should never be used. It is not good for the skin at any season of the year, but especially harmful just now. Al ways bathe the face in warm water for cleansing purposes, dash with cold water and dry thoroughly before go ing out. The woman with oily skin is afflicted just now with many blackheads, as the result of the dust-laden breezes. The oily glands in her face sem to attract particles of dust and dirt. Any attempt to expel these blackheads with a needle 1b irritating to the skin and often bruises it, leaving a scar. On the toilet table of every woman should be found a comodone extractor for the purpose of expelling contents of pim ples. Keep the skin clean by the con stant use of the complexion brush and bathe the face morning and night with sweet cream. This will feed the skin and at the same time soften it so that the blackheads will yield up their "con tents more easily. If the ekin has become tanned from the spring winds, try this simple home made whitener: Take two tablespoon fuls of oatmeal, and boll It in a quart of water for 10 minutes. Cool and strain off the liquor. Add to it the juice of ono large lemon or two small ones, and a dessert spoonful of pure al colKtl. Bathe the face with this with a soft doth, but do not wipe it all off. Chapped Hps will spoil the beauty of the entire face, and any local druggist cun compound the following formula, which will effect a cure In a few day: Cocoa butter, 10 grammes; castor oil, 3 grammes; oil of birch, 2 drops; ex tract of cacpou. 1 gramme essence of star-anise. 4 drops. Apply to the Hps three times a day until the cure Is effected. Chilblains caused from Ice skating or other exposure are most painful, and are warranted to make deep wrinkles In the face. If the chilblains have not broken open, soak the feet In the hot test water you can bear, adding more hot water all the time from the kettle. In 15 minutes thrust the feet into very old water, wipe dry gently and bathe with the following lotion: Alum (pow dered), H ounce; spirits of camphor, 1 drachm; cucumber Juice, 2 ounces. Acute Inflammation of the eyee Is often caused by exposure to the cold winds, and if taken in time can be almost Instantly relieved by applica tions of very hot water, followed by a wash made of equal parts of witch hazel and .camphor julep. Formula for camphor julep has often been given in these columns, but any of my readers who have failed to see it can secure the formula by sending stamped and self-addressed envelope to me with such a request. Witch hazel, when di luted with half as much water, can be dropped directly into the eye. This treatment will relieve the burning sensation often felt in the eye after exposure to the winds. If you come in from a long, cold walk and llnd "that you are very hoarse, dissolve a tiny piece of borax In your mouth a piece about tlje slate of a pea. Do not put oft, doing this for several days after the hoarseness is first remarked do it at once. Am I said in the beginning, be cau tious prevent the illness rather than cure It. It costs less in many ways, such as time, money, annoyance to yourself and your family. One of the best face powders to use during the month of March is a liquid powder, formula for which has appeared many times. It contains ingredients which are healing and whitening at the same time. 1 should bo glad to fur nish this formula upon receipt of stamped and eelf -addressed envelope. Wear stout boots and a brown ch if -fon veil. Do not wear heavy leather boots in the morning and light French kid ones in the afternoon. Do not wear an old lightweight raincoat In the morning and a fur ulster in the evening. Theso may seem useless "don'ts." but I assure you that it is as tonishing how many women do these foolhardy things and then come home sniffling, wondering how in the world they caught cold. KATIIERIXE MORTON. Little Girl la Gingham. John D. Well, in Buffalo (N. Y.) News. Whtn. outride, the Winter' mantle klvers up the tired earth. An' wtthin the ziowin' embers conjure fnncips. 'round the hearth. O. it'a then whilst idly muatn' that It wems. ei if on Tving-s. All the years turn back to yender an' the other days on' things Thoughts so tender. Way oft yendei An y' hain't no rail ldeer of the senti ment it brine;?. Hands I 'low that God pervided fer an old man's foolish whim Seem f take hi mm'ry-oitehem an to polish m fer him Twtll he JIM can't heli; but see 'em an' believe they're ralHy there; An' there's one that's more heart-pleasin' than most ennv enny where One o many. Best o'enni Ot a little girl In gingham with sum daisies in her hair. Seems f me. by jit a-squlnttn', I kin see her jint ei plain Fltttln round among the flowers er a-sivinRiii' down the lane Purty cheeks with blush o roses, heart es free an' light ei air An' a little bit o' feller tendln to net aTua!let 'xe Bashful lovtr. Kreck led lover of a little girl in gingham with sura daisies In her hair. Vmst the shadders wife is sit tin' with her knlttln In her lap. An her hair lit snow-white ringlets creeps frum underneath her cap Age la tellln. time la apcllin', ytt I never, 1 declare. 6eem -f git the knack o aeein' that tt'a mother settln' there Pee mi t' me . 1 on y see Jut a little girl In gingham with sura daistea In her hair BLOUSE OF RINGKD COTTON 31 ADR AS. NEW HINTS FROM THE HEART OF BLOUSE-LAND THE average woman never thinks of such a ' domain as blouse-land, and yet such a place does exist. It is located In the very heart of Tsew York's Jobbing district on either side of the world-famous thoroughfare, Broad way. You have to climb Interminable flights of stairs or ride In dingy freight elevators to reach the land of a million blouses, for the dainty lingerie or tailored wash wajst Is made close to the clouds, in great sunshiny lofts. The blouses must be kept so clean that they will not require laundering before reaching the retailer, therefore the dark, gloomy sweat shop is never chosen for their manufac ture. 9o it. happens that up there close to the clouds, above the hum and roar of city streets, the . blouse-makers, like the toy-makers, toil the year round to make the American women look trim and neat in that best of modern garments, the shirt waist. There you will find women who design and men who select fabrics, and girls who feed electric sewing machines with miles and miles of wash 'fabrics, and other girls who inset lace by machine or make buttonholes by machine. In fact, there is a machine for every part of the waist and a girt for every machine, espe cially trained to the work. And If you stand by the -man who selects the fabrics, you will learn first that white is the supreme favorite for the Spring and Summer of 1906. Everything is white and generally all white, without even so much as a suggestion of colored stripe or figure, and this holds good for the most severely tailored morning blouse, and the most fluffy of lingerie waists. Checked or cross-barred materials lead In the fabric designs, and these wear much better than stripes, because stripes rot, while the crossbar checks the breaking of threads in the stripe it crosses. The new checked or barred dimities, lawns and batistes come in great variety, the checks vary ing in size from an eighth of an inch to the inch itself, though the medium size is by all odds the smartest. Very few pi ques are offered, as madras has almost en tirely superceded pique. Imported percale in white, plain, crossbarred or figflured, is popular, and costs 25 cents a yard. But perhaps the most popular fabrics for shirt waists can all be bunched under the general title of cotton voile. To be sure, the trade has a dozen fancy names, but by any name they give the same effe-t an open mesh in cotton which closely copies the voile mesh in wool vor silk. It launders admirably and gives the best effect- when trimmed with Irish or j THE trimmings and accessories of a garment are, in these days, of vital importance. They make the costume chic or otherwise. For In stance, what Is the tailored shirt waist without its perky little bow at the throat? So' let us talk about these many little bows first. Eacn week the shops seem to offer dozens of new va rlties, and I can find no more allur ing way of" spending a spare hour than wandering from one shop to another, and peering Into the glass cases where these neck bows are kept. Most of them can be duplicated perfectly by the home sewer. Among the newest short bows are those made of Roman striped ribbon. This costs about 35 cents a yard, but it Is new and that Is worth much. If your shirt waist is white you can se lect some very garish colorings, such as a ribbon with yellow for a founda tion color, striped with several blues, grays, lavenders, etc. But If your blouse is made of dark blue silk, for Instance, then your tie of Roman rib bon must have dark blue for the pre dominating color, with only rich blend ing shades for stripes. If the ribbon does not go around the neck, three quarters of a yard Is ample. These are not small but rather wide bows. The old-fashioned - Windsor ties, so much worn by children, also find a place among the grown-ups finery. These ties are almost always made of 3urah silk, and the newest ones are embroidered at the ends in contrasting colors. I saw oome very dainty Wind sor tics this week made of pale pink, the ends embroidered with large white silk polka dots; pale blue ones with circles feather-stitched in corn colored silk; dark blue ones with tiny red fleur de lys. etc Some of the new Windsor ties are very narrow.about three Inches In width, with scalloped ends. Let me say that these Windsor ties. Beautiful Bows for Spring other heavy lace. For the lingerie I waist so dear to the Summer girl, lawn, batiste and handkerchief linen remains' in favor , and filet, German and French Val. and immitation Irish which washes admirably, are still in the running. A fancy for Summer trimmings shows cluny combined with French Val. or French and German Val. alternating in stripes, and while Val. is almost invariably combined with some other lace for trimming, one sees very with their soft, father flowing ends, are very becoming to a certain type of girl not'the stiff, tailor-made girl, but rather the one who wears blouses of soft, sheer materials with turn-over collars, the ethereal type of girls with fluffy hair and dreamy eyes. Quaint little bows to be worn with wash waists are made from small hand kerchiefs with colored borders and flowered corners. Some of these are made with just the four points of the handkerchiefs cut off on the bias at each corner and used to form double pointed ends the middle bound tight ly together with a crushed piece cut from the center of the handkerchief. Others have a straight half of the handkerchief side-pleated and finished off at the top with a bow made of the other half. These handkerchiefs can be purchased at any department store for about 12 cents each, and one or two of them worked into your box of neck wear will lend a great variety to your shirt waist bows. Just at present plain satin and straw hats are trimmed with huge bows of wired all-over lace and net. This is a fashion that I do not recommend to the girl with few hats. It is an easy method of trimming a hat, indeed, so easy that the fashion will become frightfully common within a month or so, especially in large cities. If you have an old hat which you want to fresheu up, and do not want to buy a lot of new trimmings for it, then an ecru lace bow, wired, will help you out. These bows have no ends; they consist of six large loons, three on each side. In connection with loops, let me say that almost all of the up-to-date bows are made without ends. Sashes are not so long in the back as'they were, ami seem to be entirely of loops, with oc casionally one long end. This long end is generally finished by tying a knot in It. and tacking It with needle and thread so that it will not unfasten. This method BLOUSE OF MILITARY DESItiN. little of last season's combination, ma- chine embroidery and lace. .When em broidery is used this season, it ' is very fine, done in Imitation of convent or Eng lish eyelet work and used, in vertical stripes alternating with fine-tucked strips BOTTED PERCALE BLOUSE AND BLOUSE OF KIMONO DESIGN. of the fabric, or to outline the square yokes that have come into ogue. The woman who designs blouses is a busy person, for the American woman demands infinite variety in blouses. This season she will tell you that square of finishing the end gives weight to" tt and prevents its flying out of place. Bows on .evening slippers are exceed ingly smart, and can easily be made at home for almost nothing, while the smart boot shops are asking fabulous prices for them. Little choux are made . of. deli cately tinted chiffon to match the slip per, forming a chubby bow resembling a tulip. In the center is fastened a matching rosebud or flower of satin, ana the entire ornament Is brightened up here and there with a rhinestone sewed on, giving it, for all the world, the appear ance of a dewdrop. They also tell us that the smart young girls this Summer are going to wear a one-eyelet tie in white canvas or kid, tied with broad pink or blue or Javender ribbon. With these bows you must wear a stocking match ing the ribbon, or more properly speak ing, your ribbon laces must match the color of your stockings. A young girl was seen the other night at an informal dinner in a dainty white lingerie dress, with which she wore blue silk stockings and white slippers tied with a broad, stiff blue bow of gros grain ribbon, and at her sleeve were tiny bows of blue ribbon. She made a charming picture. MART DEAN. Ixt Ught. Edith M. Thomaa -Sometimes upon the Summer hills A flooding tenderness Is shed. The low green Intervales It nils As fills the silvery stream Its bed. One moment past, it was not there Or were mine eyes not yet aware? That light it comes with flickering; morn. At harvest noon, on sunset plains. And when the fields look old and lorn. And. on the boug-h no leaf remains; And it can reach and overflow The cruel spirit of the snow. Sometimes It soothes the aching sphere Of that white planet dead in eld; The myriad eyes of Night austere From their keen wounding have been held, AH unbetokened is that ray Whote dawn may be midst dark or day. There is an ambient World of Love Wherein our little world ia rocked; An arm beneath, an arm above, Around our slumber warmly locked And Love Light thence, In. momenta blest. Goes trembling through some dreamer's breast. BLOC SB OF lines are the" smartest in applying trim ming and shaping blouse yokes, stole ef fects, . sleeve caps, etc ... Also you will find that while the elbow sleeve is used as of yore on fluffy, lace-Inset lingerie waists (the sort that bring gray hairs to the head of the average laundress and bills to their owner), for the morning waist the long sleeve is back and. most of us are really ready to welcome It. For shirt-waist suits and heavy tub waists to wear with two-piece cloth or linen sultsr Some Mid-Lent Fish Recipes NOW thatLent is upon us, the up-to-date housewife scurries about for new ways of cooking fish. Many families who observe Lent strictly have fish served twice a week Wednesdays and Fridays. Others "Who are not relig iously inclined say they have a fish din ner every Friday in the year. Just for the sake of variety and as a relief from meat. In buying canned fish, the best is. al ways the cheapest, for any inferior grade is apt to be canned with Impure oils, and ptomaine poisoning is often the result of such unwise economy. . Buy a standard brand, which you know-by past experi ence is what the manufacturers claim for it, and accept no other. Fresh fish should be eaten the day it is caught. Although it is eatable the sec ond day, much of its flavor is lost when it has been out of the water for more than 24 hours. And In cooking any fish be liberal with your seasoning. There Is no item on the' menu that will permit of so much spice and seasoning and unless fish is properly seasoned in the process of cooking it makes flat and not un palatable dish. Halibut Creole Slice a large onion very thin and fry with a scant tablespoon of lard. When cooked add a tablespoon of flour and cook for two or three min utes until well blended. Add to this half a can of solid tomatoes, a cup of boiling water and a cup of cooking claret, a ta blespoon of butter. Salt, and add cay enne pepper to taste. Cut halibut .into pieces about the size of a portion and simmer in this sauce until thoroughly cooked. Serve on dry toast, and garnish with parsley. Cod or bass can- be sub stituted for halibut. , . , . Fried Smelts Smelts should be washed In very cold water, and thoroughly dried on a eloth, after . which they should be rolled in flour. In a bowl have an ounce of melted butter and the yolks of two eggs. Beat ' this thoroughly, drop the smelts into it, then roll In bread crumb SQUARE YOKE DESIGN. the sleeve must be long. This i 1906'S hard fast rule. You can take your choice between the regulation shirt sleeve with deep'ofnar- row cuff to be worn with links, of the shaped cuff which runs almost to the el bow, which may 'be made of tucked ma terial or alternate strips of material and lace insertion. In most of the -designs shown on this page, both the long, and short sleeve are given with the pattern, but the wise woman will Instantly de cide in favor of the long sleeve for morn ing waists. The short sleeve, thanks to a vigorous campaign on the part of French mandressmaker, is being relegated to its correct use, for evening wear, when gloves meet It at the elbow. : . s No. 1 shows the best type"of tailored shirt waist, either for independent ma terial or that which, matches the- skirt and constitutes the correct shirt waist suit. It Is especially good for the flat chested girl, giving fullness across the bust line. The. collar band and cuffs must be interlined with butcher's linen, which' holds starch, and incidently, you can now buy buttons and cuff links to match in stunning designs of creamy pearl. All tailored waists should be made with collar bands, and then a variety of linen collars and bows can be worn. No. 2 shows an excellent use Of French percale, with satin dot on a plain ground. Here you see flat fine tucks down the back, three wide pleats alternating with finer ones in the front, and deep tucked elbow cuff. This Is an excellent design for stout women. Do not invest in do mestic percale. It shrinks both ways. No. 3 is another design for the stout woman, and shows a military effect in the closing on the left side, with wash soutache braid and flat pearl buttons of generous' size for trimming. No. 4 displays the square yoke effect so popular' this season, and combines crossbarred and ringed dimity with plain lawn tucked in the yoke and outlined by fine embroidery. This is a really good design for a waist that' must be washed frequently, especially.-for the business woman who wants an occasional lawn waist to wear to store or office. No. 5 suggests the Japanese overblouse, adjusted to tub needs. It Is developed in plain lawn , with Innumerable tucks, and the simplest finish of VaL lace, German and French alternating on the over sleeve and cuff. The collar shows the new high pattern, almost touching the hair on the sides and the back." Girdles used to finish off , the tailored waists are distinctive.'. They must be nar row, carefully fitted to the figure and may 'be of linen interlined with butcher's linen, heavily stitched and finished with a pearl buckle or of leather to match the skirt worn.. MaRY DEAN. I and fry In plenty of hot lard. Salt and pepper to taste. . Escalloped Fish Remove all the bones and shred finely- any white fish that has been cooked. Place a layer of this in a baking dish and cover with bread crumbs, then a thin layer of sliced cold potatoes. Add a little seasoning, a thin slice of onion and a hard-boiled egg, sliced. Repeat this until the diish is full, finish with bread crumbs on top. Make a rich drawn butter and pour over it, set in oven to brown. This is a very practical dish, as any cold fish can be utilized In this way. - New Finnan Haddle Let the fish stand in boiling water long -enough to loosen the skin and bones. Take it out and pick off all the meat In small flakes. Add to this salt and pepper and a tablespoon of melted butter, a tablespoon of lemon juice and . one of. rich cream. Heat all together and serve on thin slices of toast which have been dipped in hot water and buttered. Serve with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Salmon Loafi Drain all the oil from a large can of salmon, pick it over carefully and remove all bones. Beat together four eggs untllvery light, add a cup of bread crumbs, a scant cup of rich cream, and the Juice of one lemon. Salt to taste and add a good dash of cayenne pepper. Mix these ingredients well together, put in baking dish, cover the dish and bake for 30 minutes in good oven. ' Boiled Fish. In - boiling any fish, you should put enough water in a large pot to enable a fish to swim in, if it were alive. .-Add to this water half a cup of vinegar, a teaspoon of salt, one - whole onion, one dozen whole black peppers, one . blade of mace. Take any fish and sew It up in new piece of cheese cloth, fitted to the shape of the fish.. Put In the water and heat slowly for 30 minutes, then let it boll hard and fast for about ten minutes. YOVR minister, his wife, and his family have you ever thought of these as a problem in etiquette? No? WelU perhaps you expect the minister to provide courtesy, good form and etl-' quette enough for both. Perhaps you be-' long to the large class of people who1 think that a minister never takes offense' or gtves it. , But believe me, there is a special code of kindly good manners which should 1 regulate your relations with your ntin- ister and those who live within his gates.! How often we hear the minister, his family, his customs, his method of living, j his bearing and dress flippantly criticised! by members of his congregation who are old enough to know better. How often i the minister's wife regards her advent j into a new and perhaps more fashionable parish with positive -fear and trembling,! because she Is ao afraid that she will not1 do the right thing at the right moment.; But how many parishioners stop to dis sect their own bearing toward the minister apd the minister's family? ( For instance, if the new banker brings his bride to town, when do you go to call upon her? At the end of two weeks?' Exactly! You give her time to settle in! her new home, to make that home ready for your coming. ( But the minister's wife? Oh. you drop in upon her quite infor mally some afternoon within a few days' after her arrival. A minister's wife should always he prepared to receive her husband's parishioners. If you played the same trick on tho banker's wife, you would apologize for coming so soon, but you were going out of town, and you wanted to pay your respect before . leaving, etc. But you do not apologize for intruding too soon upon the minister's wife, because It Is your right as a parishioner to learn as soon as possible just what sort of house keeper your new rector's wife is. If you think the new banker's wife would be a welcome addition to your social circle, you pre eager to give the first afternoon tea in her honor. , You want to pose as her social sponsor. How about the new minister's wife? Perhaps you say that the church or the Ladies Aid Society will give a so cial evening in the church parlor and let everyone meet both the minister and his wife, and a number of prominent citizens will be invited, etc. But think how much more It would mean to his wife if you gave a pretty, simple afternoon tea just for her, and made her feel that she had some at traction beyond that of being the min ister's wife, that she was a personality welcomed by your set? " Suppose you try It! Be among the first to call upon her, and issue your invitation for an early tea, not falling to add on your Invitations or cards the phrase,- "in honor of Mrs. Walter Ray mond Barker." Remember that you do not use her husband's title in connection with her name, - even though he may be a doctor of divinity and the congrega tion is most proud of the fact. If you and your husband are among the social leaders of the town, give a xormai ainner in nonor or tne new ciergyr man and hiswife. Give them the benefit of your social Influence. They will need it. If you are not social leaders, do not hang on the edge of the circle, sniffing the air and muttering that of course you cannot expect to be noticed while Judge Barker and his wife are around. Give a small informal dinner for the new minister and his wife, not trying to ape Judge and Mrs. Barker,, but be at your bestand the new minister and his wife may enjoy your simple hospitality the best of all. The minister's wife likes comradeship far better than patronage. When you introduce either the min ister or his wife to strangers, preface the introduction thus: "Mr. Blank, I want you to know our new rector, Mr. or Dr. Jenkins (according to his title)." Show in your every word and action the deference due a minister of the church and the occasion will acquire the dignity It deserves. Never invite your minister to dinner or tea without Including an invitation for Ms wife. Yod would be furious with a wom an who Invited your husband to dinner and forgot that he possessed a wife. If your new minister establishes calling hours, or hours when he will always bo found at the parish house, observe those hours. Do not interrupt him at odd moments, when he may be writing a sermon, with some trivial rdquest. If he is to respond to important calls, he must behaved many trivialities. Do not rush to your minister or his wife with bits of gossip. Either they must sacrifice their own dignity and listen to your tale, or show you the con tempt they feel for a scandal-monger. The observance of these few simple, common sense rules will make the coming of the new minister much more pleasant for all concerned. Just bear in mind that the minister, however fine his calling, is yet human.. Treat him and his as- you would be treated yourself. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Leaves From Fashion's Notebook. Lovely bands of velvet are used as vests for' street gowns and dinner dresses as well. A striped suit, dark and rather smooth in texture, is demanded for Spring wear and the most popular stripe, just at the passing moment, is one that shows a slight tint of purple across the brown. One of the quite new features'ls the hip scarf. This, upon a slender figure, is lovely It is made of very filmy material and is finished with a border of fringe. It is worn around the hips rather snugly and is tied "in. a knot in the buck. Materials silvered to form floral fig ures are among the waist materials. And i there are little coats completely dove red with silver spangles to look like a coat of mail. These are quite warm and can be worn evenings and for nice occasions when one would re quire a little wrap. The; velvet dress is now very much in fayor. As a street gown it Is worn short and trimmed with little besides Its deep hem and, perchance, a ruchlng of taffeta. The coat is short and fin ished with fancy vest and wide cuffs turning back from sleeves that are of medium length. i The Spring girl will wear tulle and violets at her throat, and vastly be coming the new neckwear is to her. fasten under the chin to give a most becoming setting for the face,- .and there are tulle bows of creamy white that are caught with an enameled vio let. . . The belt feature has taken on some pretty new touches this month, and the girl who is out buying her beltings can get something that is quite un usual. She should, however, visit the counter where beltings are sold by the yard. And here she should select such colors and materials as will best fit her wardrobe.
