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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 15, 1907)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 15, 1907. lilt 1 ?kre5 '&Pit$ny lil Coats for Mother and Child THE problem of outside garments for all the members of the fam ily now confronts, and we have no time to lose in buying goods and having them made up by dressmakers or doing this work at home. This coming season, coats are either ex tremely plain or exceedingly elabor ate, and It is better to lean towards the severely plain if you have only a few such garments. Particularly is this true with children's clothes, as no child ever looks well with, coafs trimmed with lace, embroidery and gaudy braids. It Is far better style. to buy handsome material, a little good trimming, suitable linings, and then make up the coat on long straight lines, well cut and pressed. A coat of this kind can be worn two seasons or more, while one that Is over trimmed will go out of date before the signs of Spring have shown them- , selves. For the little tots of 2 and 3 who are Just beginning to walk by them selves, a simple double-breasted coat Is admirably well suit and always a favorite. It Is extremely warm and not too full to Impede their rather unsteady legs. I saw a coat the other day quite like the Illustration, made of a bright blue broadcloth with col lars and cuffs of velvet Just a shade darker, outlined with three, rows of the finest gilt braid. It was a very chic little garment for the little tod dler. The model Is aiso suited to other materials such as cheviot, the beautiful fur plushes, to velvet or vel .veteen, or Indeed to every material adapted to children's coats. This ia also a model that could be worn by a boy from 2 to 4 years old, the only difference being that the left side should be lapped on to the right, giv ing It a truly masculine style and suited to wee men. For the little girl a bit older, say from 5 to 10 years of age, the coat that Is tucked or plaited so as to give long lines will make them look at their best. The one shown, in addition to that advantage, is quite novel, and It can be finished with a lace collar like the illustration, or one of velvet, silk or fur. Only three buttons are necessary for It and these should be large i-nameled ones. This coat made of scarlet cloth is charming, but there are a great many mixtures that are liked for coats of this kind, and cheviots of all kinds are quite as ap propriate as cloth. Invisible plaids are always pretty, but for general hard wear, for school and .all weather, scarcely anything better than a heavy weight navy blue serge could be sug gested. There is no coat better liked for the small boy under 10 than the reefer made in Russian style. It buttons closely to the -neck, it is very becom ing to boyish figures, It is loose and comfortable, in fact It Is satisfactory from every point? of view. Emblems like that on the arm cart' be bought already to applique on the jacket, or can b6 worked right on the cloth of the coat. A great many materials could be suggested for this boy's coat, such as mixed' tweeds, Irish friezes being well liked for the coats of hard er usage, while both rough, finished and smooth-faced cloths in plain col ors are In vogue for those of a slightly handsomer sort. Again, the collar can be of the same" material or of velvet. The three generous pockets In this coat endears It to the hearts of all boys. i I can 'think of nothing better suited to the young girl than the Norfolk j jacKet, ana me one wnn ine uvx. pleats applied is easiest made at home. The children of the rich are wearing theso Norfolk suits of corduroy this season. . An inexpensive material and one best suited to the wear and tear of every day. The model is youthful In effect and consequently most be coming, while It makes a most service able garment, of which the school girl is always in need. The one shown today Includes thn latest features, and is made with seams running to the shoulders that mean a perfect fit, and , with very deep revers. These Jackets alBO make up admirably in all homespun materials, but the list of goods of which it might be made is too long for me to relate. All of the man nish suitings are good, ut I think corduroy Is perhaps newer and cer tainly not expensive. Perhaps the mother is In need of a rough and ready coat that she can Blip over an old waist and go to mar ket or similar errands. The plain tail ored coats are a pronounced feature of this season and are greatly in demand. To be at its smartest, it must be se vere In finish and cut in mannish style, and here is one of the latest and best models that have yet appeared. It is half fitted and has the long lines that are so generally becoming, show ing the pleats, known as Chesterfield pleats, at the underarm seams, giving it extra fullness over the skirt por tion. The sleeves of this jacket . are severely tailored and should be made very long.. I fear the short sleeve Is really doomed for all the foreign models have extremely long sleeves, some of them reaching Almost to the knuckles. That means more work this Fall to fix up the dresses and Jackets of last season, but it also means many new orders for the dressmakers. I should be glad to receive arid answer any letters regarding these Jackets or any other articles of dress if my correspondents, will only send me a stamped and self-addressed envelope for the reply. MARY DEAN. Raising Summer Fingerprints THE flTst time that the returned va cationist dona a regulation evening frock or a delicate gown for calling or' reception purposes, she realizes that there is something wrong in her general make-up. Bomehow the gown and- the woman do not seem to harmonize. Then she realises that the tan, which was so becoming during country life, makes her look blowsy In town. Her hair, too, seems to have coarsened. On the whole, she has the appearance of standing sadly In need of grooming. While this has been a season of large hats and veils, a great many of the younger women have continued to go for what . Is called "the simple life," both in town and out. and the result is a gen eral boom for beauty parlors. Removing the telltale marks of out door life and general carelessness pe oullar to Summer should not be accom plished too hastily. Simple remedies are -safest, and especially it it danger out to bleach off the tan too hastily. The skin Is extremely delicate, despite the healthy tan you have acquired, and It must be treated tenderly. Very likely under the tan your skin is a bit muddy, as boarding-house life over Indulgence In soda water. Sum mer resort sweets and drinks Is very apt to bring on this condition. Reach this defect through your diet. Eat quantities of oranges, three times a day If you like. They clarify the complexion. Rare beef Is also good for the skin, while veal and pork In every form are pro hibited. For bread use Zweiback, or what Is known as the French pulled bread. These are particularly good for the girl who suffers with pimples. I will be glad to furnish receipts for making either pulled bread or Zweiback on receipt of a stamped and self-addressed envelope. If the bowels are sluggish, , use a gen 'tlle laxative like salts and eat plenty of fresh saltds, dressed with olive oil and pure vinegar of lemon Juice. Bathing the face with buttermilk ones or twice a day will reduce the tan and Improve the complexion generally. Even a city girl can obtain this by- making ar rangements with the dairyman who serves the family with milk. When the face Is tanned hot water should be used ' exclusively, and the soap powder env Ployed must be selected with infinite care. An excellent material for a wash cloth if the face is extremely tender Is the natural raw silk. If the skin is very open with enlarged pores a camel's hair complexion brush may be used. I am giving several soap powders which will soften the skin and reduce the tan. It 1s best to keep all of these powders in a Jar with a perforated metal top so that It can be shaken out on a cloth or Into water without waste. Bitter almond meal. 6 ounces; Orris ' root (powdered), 4 ounces; wheat flour, 4 ounces: white castile soap, 1 ounce; borax (powdered), 1 ounce; oil of berga mont. 3 drachms; extract of musk, drachm; oil of bitter almonds, 10 drops. Another nice soap powder Is made In the following manner: Best almond meal. 1 pound; powdered orris root, 4 pound: white castile soap (powdered), H pound: oil of bergamont. 2 urachms; oil of bitter almonds, 15 drops; extract of musk, 1 drachm. A very simple face wash that is within the reach of the average purse Is made as follows: Take two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal and add to It a quart of water and boll for 15 minutes. Cool and strain this and to the liquid add the juice of one large lemon and a dessertspoonful of pure alcohol. Bathe the face In this, and when you feel that it is perfectly clean, pat it gently with a cloth until dry. then add more of the wash and allow this to dry naturally on the face. If the tan is very obstinate and there Is any sort of an eruption appears In connection with It, apply one of the fol lowing pomades: Oxide of zinc, 10 grains: talcum, 10 powdered soap, 00 grams; lano- grams; tincture of 'benzoin, 10 water, '92 grams; glycerine, 10 should afterwards be washed In hot water. The tanned hands and arms, so at tractive on the golf course or tennis court, are apt to look coarse and unbe coming when dainty house dresses are worn once more. Here Is a very good cosmetic which will not only reduce the tan, but it will make the skin soft and velvety: . Myrrh .' 1 ounce Honey 4 ounces Yellow wax 2 ounces Rose water 6 ounces Melt the wax in a double boiler; add the myrrh powdered while hot; heat thoroughly together, then stir in the honey and rose-water, ahd sufficient gly cerine, little by little, to make a "spread able paste." Be sure to wear very loose gloves, at least two sizes too large. The girl who has worn large tennis or yachting shoes all Summer is apt to have trouble with her feet when she resumes what are commonly known as mannish ties or boots. She may even find that she cannot wear her last season's dancing slippers. Here is a very good healing powder which can be shaken into the shoes or rubbed on the feet before put ting on the stockings: Venetian talcum powder, 20 grams: ly- copodium powder, 20 grams; powdered tannin, 6 grams; boric acid, 5 grams; es sence ae patchouli, 10 drops. II the hair is dry and brittle and vou have abused it by getting it wet with salt water and then drying It in the sun, i GIRL'S COAT WITH TLEAT9. THE FOPCIAR RUSSIAN REEFER. you -must take immediate steps to prevent it falling out. The hair should be sham pooed with an egg mixture. No am monia, borax or any sort of alkali must be used on hair that has been thus abused. This egg shampoo is worthy of recommendation: Yolk of one egg, one pint of rainwater (lukewarm), ounce of rosemary spirits. Beat the mixture up thoroughly and use it warm, rubbing well Into the skin of the head. Rinse in several waters. The scalp should be massaged every night, moistening the finger tips with olive oil, and the following lotion may be applied: Glycerine.' 1 ounce; eau de cologne, pint; liquid ammonia, 1 drachm; oil of origanum, oil of rosemary, drachm of each; tincture of cantharides, 1 ounce. Briskly agitate for 10 minutes, then add camphor Julep, pint and again mix well and stir. A few drops of essence of musk or other perfume can be added. KATHERINE MORTON. make sure about the question of clothes. If It is to be a very formal party and all the men will appear in evening clothes, you must either have the same sort of clothes or decline the Invitation. Very often well-meaning sisters 6r friends will advise an inexperienced youth to attend, a fashionable party In his neat sack suit or "Sunday clothes," not thinking of the agony" of embarrassment he will suffer when he finds himself the only man in the room so dressed. Evening clothes include danclr.g pumps with fine black hose, a white shirt and a white lawn tie. A white vest may be worn, or trie black vest which matches the trousers and coat, but should begin to lay aside money for Its purchase at an early date. Your social connections, men friends that you meet in a social way, are always helpful to you In business, and It never pays to be odd or eccentric. Your dinner or donee hostess has a perfect right to resent the fact that you do not don evening clothes in her honor, and until you can afford to buy them, you had best curb your social ambitions. Next week we will tell you Just what happens to you when you reach the borne of your hostess at a dance, and what you must do to feel comfortable and at home among acquaintances, old and new, on the qance rioor. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Chats With Half-Grown-Ups TO the inexperienced girl or laddie of 17 or thereabouts, the first formal dinner or dance is apt to take on the guise of a veritable bugaboo. For you must understand that some girls and boys at 17 are socially inexperienced, while others are experienced. When you've gone to dancing school until ask ing a girl to give, you the next dance comes as easily as tying your cravat or baiting a hook, the first formal dance ' Norfolk Jacket. trams: line, 8 grams; grams. Lard grams: oil. 10 grams: potash soap, 10 precipitated sulphur, 10 grams. In using either of these pomades the face Misses' dancing lessons have been confined to a few lessons fr8m an older sister or brother who informed you between turns that you certainly were "the limit," and you have backed out of your parlor when said sister was having an informal gath ering of her friends, the first dance at the house of some friend, which your mother Insists you must attend and act in a manner creditable to your family, enough to make cold chills travel up and down your spinal column. You lie awake nights picturing how you will pass through the first groups of young people in the hall; how you will get rid of your outdoor raiment, and then cross that long parlor or dance hall with out falling on its polished surface. Girls somehow manage to work- out these problems by Instinct, but with boys it Is different, and If they only knew what agonies they wquld suffer on their first social appearance they would accept more invitations to enter the parlor when their mothers and sisters have guests at home. Mother's parlor Is so much easier to en ter than anyone's else. "And when you dine out formally for the first time, you wonder why your mother does not have the meals served In this quiet, elegant fcshlon, with a white-capped maid to pass dishes without orders. Per haps it newer dawns on you that long ago mother tried to Introduce Just such a sys tem in your own home, but you and father and the rest of the folks said old-fashioned ways were good enough, and the new way took too long. But to get back to that first dance. You have your invitation and you are not quite sure whether you are pleased or sorry. First, you must make sure that you have no other engagement and then send either acceptance or regrets. If it is written thus: "Mrs. Jones requests the pleasure of Mr. Blank's company on Tuesday evening, etc.," your reply must run like this: "Mr. Blank regrets that he cannot accept Mrs. Jones' kind invitation for Tuesday even ing, etc." Or, if you are going: "Mr. Blank accepts with pleasure Mrs. Jones' kind invitation for Tuesday, etc." If Mrs. Jones starts her invitation in the. first person and writes informally, thus. "I hope you e'en Join a few young people at our home on Tuesday evening, etc.," then you must answer In kind: "Many thanks for your kind Invitation for Tuesday evening, which I accept with pleasure." For this reply to the invitation use plain white, rather heavy paper, folded onca. Nover use a single sheet from a pad or a paper with any sort of fanciful decoration, or motto on it. When you can afford it. have some paper engraved with your home address at the top, and noth ing more. Before you accept the formal invitation Modish Three-Quarter Cost. i in either case the vest must be cut low. Your studs should be tiny gold or pearl or a composition which looks something like pique or linen. You should also have white kid gloves and an Immaculate handkerchief to hold against the backs of the girls with whom you dance, par ticularly if It is -warm and your hands perspire. Many a dainty dress has been ruined by the carelessness of an mex r.erlenced dancing partner. If It is an informal dance, you will be so informed by your hostess, and then you can wear a sack suit, but always white shirt, collar ar.d cuffs, and a light tie. At Summer dances white linen or duck trousers, soft shirt and blue coat are often worn. The young man just starting out in business and society will find that a dress suit Is an excellent investment, and he Care of the Skin in Summer THE woman with a pretty nose in Summer time Is hard to find. Hot weather acts badly on all the features, but It Is particularly destroy ing to the nose. The Summer nose is burned red upon the tip; it is flushed; It Is afflicted by the roughness of, the, winds and weath er; being the most prominent reature. it aots as a buffer for the face, and it Is apt with all of these afflictions to be oily ia texture. An oily nose Is a nose that shines, and there are few noses that do not shine in Summer time. The French woman has a constitu tional abomination for a shiny nose, and many are the ways in which she prevents it. In the wrist bag of every French woman there is a little hand glass, and by the aid of this she studies her nose and decides what to ao with It. If the nose Is shiny the French woman opens her wrist bag and takes from it an Inner little satin bag which Is lined with down and filled with pow der. This she rubs upon her offending feature until its color Is restored. She puts on the powder liberally and draws a light veil over her face to keep the powder from showing and from blow ing off. Wind is the worst foe to a pretty nose. It reddens and roughens the cuticle and it also burns it. A case of windburn Is worse for a nose than a case of sunburn. The sunburn can be treated over night with a dab or two of cold cream or skin food, but the windburn, being deeper and more searching, requires a more compre hensive treatment. The society beauty has upon her table a little Jar that Is filled with a home-made lotion consisting of al mond oil. pure mutton tallow and pure white vaseline, equal parts of each. This Jar of mixture she stands at night In a saucer of hot water un til It is quite liquid. When soft enough to spread easily upon the skin, she takes a camel's-hair brush and dips It in the lotion. With this she goes over her wind-swept nose, paint ing it as delicately as though she was doing a canvas. The skin is not irri tated and the nose is not injured in shape or color. It is not reddened nor is the burnt skin rubbed off. If she' has done her work well, the nose Immediately feels more comfort able, and after a night of rest the skin looks soft and pretty again. It is a treatment that Part of the nightly rest of every pretty woman who motors In the sun or golfs or, tramps. The skin of the face has a tightened feeling after a woman has been out In the air all day, and for" this there la a remedy, too. The skin has been injured by the wind and the rays, and it has contracted and is temporarily out of condition.. The only thing to do Is to give it a treatment of skin food arid massage and to leave it to time and the skin food to make it well again. Most skins look and feel oily In Sum mer, and the tightened feeling makes the face still more disagreeable. It Is only a question of a few hours when the kln will .crack, and then comes the peeling off which is so disfiguring and which leaves the skin all blotched and red. The French woman wlll tell you that when away at her Summer resort she Invariably carries In a hand a small case which she calls her vanity case. It Is made of gold or silver and It Is as elegant as circumstances will per mit. Should she not be the fortunate owner of a Jewelled vanity case, she makes for herself a vanity bag, which takes its place and is in many respects better, for It holds more. In the vanity bag there goes a little mirror with an easel attachment at the back, by which it can be stood up or hung as the circumstances permit. There are also several kinds of pow- ment over night as well as a) treatment during the day. If the skin is too moist and shiny, there must bo astringent lotion pat on the face in the morning. after the cool dip of water. There are many good astringent lotions for the face, and the woman away In the , country will want to split a cucum ber and use the Juice, or she will steep t some lettuce leaves and apply them, or ehe will get the pure juice of apple steeped out of apple tea, for her face. Tin woman who has none of these things at hand can take a basin of water and add a dozen drops of ben zoin to It. The water should be tepid and the benzoin should be Just suf ficient to make it milky This gives a most excellent lotion fV the skin. It tightens and whitens it and makes it soft and smooth. There are other things for an oily skin, and the pure juice of strawber ries is best of all. It softens the skin, ' takes off sunburn and gives It Just the right tone. Its objection Is that It is costly, but a pint of the pure juice can be used dally to advantage updn the . face, neck and arms If money is of no Importance and if strawberries ar plentiful. Grapes are good for a skin that oils. ' A bunch of dark grapes squeezed one by one upon the face and rubbed on until the skin is all covered with the fresh Juice will reap Its reward In s . lack of blemishes. The Juice takes off the ugly spots of sun and weather. It Is by taking good care of her skin that the French woman does most to prevent trouble. When she knows she Is going out into the scorching sun she protects her face. Just as she pro tects Ijer hands. There are complexion, masks to be worn In the sun, but they are disfiguring and uncomfortable. ' There are also thick white creams that can be rubbed into the pores to keep out the dust, but they are warm. A prettier way Is the Parisian way ; of protecting the skin in the Summer-: time. The face is first rubbed well with' a good skin food and Is then allowed to rest a moment. It may be added that the rubbing is a thorough one, so that all of the pores are well filled. There are no open or gaping pores left.. men comes the dusting with powder. which is put on liberally. A Derfect cloud of powder Is wafted over the face and then another until my lady is as white as marble. Then comes a very slight dusting with a clean, dry, new powder puff, and then the veil Is put on. If the skin is covered with Dowder and cold cream before one goes out. n win De pretty sure to come back in pretty good shape. But it must im mediately be treated, and the only treatment Is a liberal coating of skin ioou, wnicn must be allowed to re main on for a minute or two before oeing wiped oil. This is followed by more cream and finally the face is lightly steamed with hot cloths and th poor victim lies down to rest after anoint ing tne lace with an oily lotion. The time to take the shine nut nf th face Is at night, when It Is washed with a heavy foam of good soap. The soap is spread upon the skin thickly and is taken on with a dozen very hot waters. Then comes the point where experience must De tne best guide. After the hot water the skin Is soft and clean, and now the Summer woman must Judge for herself what to do next, for her skin has its Individual peculiarities. There Is a woman whose nose is al ways shiny, or inclined to be so, anfl whose skin fairly exudes oil. This wom an follows the hot water face bath with a dash of benzoin and water. It acts as a drier upon the skin and keeps It from being quite so oily next day. But If tire skin Is slready Inclined to be dry and to feel "tight," then there should be some cold cream or an oily lotion rubbed in. The wotnan should go to bed with this lotion on her face, for it will give' the skin the nutriment it needs and in the morning there will be a clear cu ticle and no wrinkles. It is something of a matter of Judgment. with the best of us no matter how well we may be advised as to what to do for the skin and how to do it, for all skins differ. So It Is, too, with the nose. A nose that is oily and full of open pores should have plenty of astringent lo tions applied to it. There are women who can put the juice of limes diluted with water upon the nose without injur ing Its texture. Others would be ruined by It. What bleaches one nose will red den another. There are noses that are rough and will not take powder nicely. Where a nose Is like this It . needs a nightly bath of . glycerine and rose water, half and half. It Is easily applied, easily obtained and simple in Its ingredients. The same lo tion will redden the lips if applied night-' ly, and will also make the hands soft. II ' glycerine does not agree with the skin very well, the auantity can be lessened. Child's Double-Breasted Coat. der for the face. There are the pow der leaves, dainty white slips of paper, all covered with powder ready to be ap plied to the face, and there Is a tiny powder puff in a little silver box no bigger than a bonbonnlere. There Is also a chamolse bag filled with pow der to be used upon a very oily skin; and there . are other things for the skin. The very oily face requjras a treat- - ..... Proper Combination in Dress. The woman who puts on a severely tall-, ored dress, then adds all .ae accessorief that belong to a calling costume Is a sorry sight, yet one that we meet- l . Inn.naiFl TX'Vl la 1 that many sensible women will do these unaccountable things? The otner morning I met a friend who has a large purse on which to dress. She had on a tailor-made gown, stiff black hat, dpgskln gloves, all of which were In good taste for a morning outfit; but to spoil the whole picture and ut terly without rearor. she had In her hand a beautiful white purse beaded with gold and green. What she should have had was a small leather purse or shopping bag, and the gaudy bag she carried should have been left at home until she was dressed in accordance. Another common fault is wearing a handsome afternoon gown ' of some nice material, elaborately trimmed, a feathered hat and a pair of old black gloves. What could be worse? Think of tills picture and I am sure you can' recall seeing Jt many times. A pair of white gloves cost a few dollars, I admit, bJt with care they will last a whole senson, and they are an absolute . necessity to the finish of a dressy cos tume. Vanity, thy name Is woman, I fear, as regards fet. and yet a mis taken vanity at times and a foolish woman. Since short snorts have come In so universally for street wear, many girls are inclined to dress their feet in high-heeled shoes, fancy ties and other inappropriate footwear for street use. If you are in a short skirt made in the walking length, then the only shoe that you can wear within reason Is a heavy boot. A shoe with a 3oul3 heel can enly be worn within fancy dress, and never for walking the streets of either the city or country. If you can only have one pair of shoes, then strike a happy medium, such as a military Oxford tie with military heel. Century Plant Iace. Pittsburg Dispatch. The women of Fayal, In the Azores, make a lace out o. the fibers of the leaves of the century plant, and It is not less beautiful than costly. These women are the only makers of the lace left In the world today, and travelers stopping at Fayal on their South Atlantic voyage do not miss the opportunity of seeing these women at work. The peasants of .nblssola once possessed the same art. They made of the century plant's leaves a Deaumui . Diaca moe, mi it wouia not wash,.