THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 23, 190T.
j&ITOPOHPEHCL ?A5, of fA5fflOH3 AHP BAVtj)
Plain But Pleasing Vacation Raiment for the Little Ones
PLAINER than ever are the styles for
children this season, and It Is the
dress that Is well cut and made of
nice material that counts rather than the
one elaborately trimmed. Of course there
Is the dainty batiste dress for the party
that every child loves, but on the whole
the simple frock, with straight lines is
what the shops are selling. The same
thins can be said of the coat, as can be
seen by the illustration here. This par
ticular model has only the shoulder and
under-arm seams. It has large pockets
with broad laps and the fronts are faced
to form lapels, and it has the regulation
coat sleeves. To make the medium size
of this coat it would take 3'i yards of
material 27 inches wide; 2 yards of goods
44 Inchea. and about 1 yards in 62-lnch
width. This model makes up very well
In the small checked cheviot, and black
and white shepherd's plaid with a little
are of the tan covert cloth, and the model
emblem on the arm gives It a good dash
of color and style. The boys' coats are
Indeed making "little men" of them. They
are of the tan covert cloth, and the bodel
'Is exactly like that his father wears. A
regular little Spring overcoat. Some of
' them are lined with twilled lining, but
; most of them are not. Boys, from 4 years
it;p to young men, all wear these, and the
little fellow with such a coat on Is proud
' indeed.
Going back to the girls again, the baby
coats are often made of dotted swlss,
' with three deep tucks around the bot
tom. These coats must have a silk lining
to give them warmth, but are extremely
Inexpensive and will wash well. Numer
, ous other coats of dark blue linen are
seen with white sailor collars on them
embroidered In dark blue also the white
'linen coats with dark blue linen sailor
; collars with white embroidery. These
! coats have the advantage over the light
Coat With Only Shoulder and
I'b d era rm Sea ma.
Etiquette for the Man
HOW many wives and daughters have
suffered agonies .of embarrassment
over the carelessness If not rudeness
nf the man of the house! How often do
you hear women apoloKize for Mights piU
upon guests within their gates on the
pcore that It Is "just Father's way!. The
average man who may be a model pro
vider for hta family, an admirable citizen.
n honorable business man or a pillar in
the church, brings blushes to the cheeks
of his women folks by his utterant indif
ference to the little courtesies which go
to make the family life elegant. And
strangely enough, this same man. guest
In another household, 1b a model of good
manners.
At another table, he will stand until
hn hostess is seated or until other guests
take their places. At his own table, he
eeats himself before the casual guest
does, flourishes his carving knife and fork
or opens up hie napkin as If impatient of
delay. "While his wife is pouring his
breakfast coffee, he will glance over his
paper and manloure his finder nails, until
the scratch-scratch of his penknife or
file. Kets every nerve in his wife's body
a-tingle. The minute the meat course
has been removed from the dinner table,
he demands a toothpick and during the
remainder of the meal, he continues to
perform dental operations until his guests
are almost nauseated and his women folk
sick with shame.
When callers come in after tea and he
is not particularly Interested in their con
versation, he picks up a paper and pro
ceeds to Ignore their presence or to glare
at the women folk as if talking in his
prepenoe were a crime. If there Is some
special social event under way. that is
the time when he turns obstinate and de
clares that If he cannot go in his sack
unit, he stays at home and what is more
he proposes to go. "Jones Is a sensible
chap, and I'll bet he won t be in evening
clothes." is bis excuse, but his wife
knows better, and sure enough he finds
himself one of the very few men in busi
ness attire, but he excuses himself on
the plea that if a man is a success In
business he cannot play the social game,
too.
Not long ago. a prospective bride wrote
to me that while her wedding was to be
celebrated at high noon and before quite
a large gathering of friends in a church,
her fiance had postlvely refused to don
a frock coat, because he thought it was
all nonsense and he looked much better
In the sack suit, in which they would
start on their Journey. The girl wanted
to know how she should dress to suit his
attire. Her wedding gown of white mull
was all finished but perhaps after alt it
would be better If she changed to her
traveling gown and used the wedding
frock afterward for dances, etc.
I only hope she showed her fiance my
reply. He deserved that and more. too.
The man who marries a girl accustomed
to the manners of good society, a girt
given to the little elegancies of life, and
FRACmAL GrlMffiSFORPlAY OR TRAVEL.
colored cheviot ones In that they will
launder.
Colored lawns, Swisses and mulls seem
to have crowded themselves into the chil
dren's Summer wardrobe. Pink swlss with
a white figure, trimmed with ecru val;
blue mulls with a silk dot, trimmed with
pure white point de Paris lace; blue and
white checks and stripes In mull or voile
who determines from the very start that
he will not obey the rules of good form,
is starting the matrimonial game all
wrong. He Is storing up unhapplness for
the girl and for himself. He may even
be turning his face all unconsciously to
wards the divorce court. A woman will
forgive many big wrongs in a man, but
she will fret and chafe under his small
faults and bad manners.
The man who scorns the rules of eti
quette, which after all are the simplest
rules of thoughtfulness towards others,
has no right to mingle In society with his
good wife. He ought to give her and
his well-bred daughters an allowance and
hie himself off to a cave or nut.
The man who accompanies nls wife to
the theater, should wear evening clothes
if they are going to a fashionable play
house, or If they are to occupy incon
spicuous seats In the. balcony, and his
wife Is wearing a plain tailored! suit, he
should at least change his linen, don a
fresh tie, wear his best overcoat, hat and
gloves. On entering the theater, he finds
programmes for her, helps her off with her
wraps and makes her comrortable before
seating himself. Many a woman has been
forced to appear domineering simply be
cause her husband was so careless In
these matters that she was obliged to
get her own program, arrange her wraps,
etc.
When walking with his wife to church
or for a promenade, he raises his hat
whenever she speaks to persons they
meet, whether men or women, and when
he speaks to any one whom his wife may
not know. He helps her on a car and
Summer Salads
THE first requisite of a delicious Sum
mer salad Is French dressing.
Boiled dressings or mayonaise are rather
heavy to combine w-lth fresh vegetables.
The real French dressing sounds like
a complicated article, but It can be made
In quantities, poured into a covered jar
and kept on Ice Indefinitely. Its flavour
Is truly delicious and far above the In
sipid mixture of oil and vinegar which
generally passes under the title of
"French dressing
In a deep china bowl, place a level
teaspoon of Oriental curry powder, half
a teaspoon of French mustard, a light
saltspoon of English ground mustard; a
light salt spoon of cayenne pepper; one
teaspoon of parsley, fresh, finely chopped,
washed and drained; half a teaspoon of
finely chopped, fresh chives; two medium
shallots, peeled and chopped, one-fourth
of a small bean of garlic finely crushed;
four teaspoons of salt, and one light tea
spoon of white pepper, the rind of a
quarter of lemon, finely chopped. Mix
these ingredients together firmly with a
silver or wooden fork, and then add a
all have found their place. This does not
mean that white is not worn, but that
colors are seen much more than for sev
eral years. For the little daughter from
4 to 8 years old nothing is sweeter and
quainter for dancing parties than this
little empire dress, which can be made in
pink." blue or white. This model was
made up in fine pink dotted Swiss, inset
of the House
follows her, while In leaving the car, he
precedes her and helps her off. He al
ways has small change in his pocket, and
does not embarrass her by asking in a
loud voice, "Mother, did you bring your
purse? I'm broke."
When his wife is entertaining friends at
dinner, he remembers that even though
they be comparative strangers to him, he
Is their host. He pulls out the chair of
each woman guest, and pushes the chair
forward as she seats herself. He waits
upon these guests, first, his wife next and
himself last. He does not leave the table
until all have finished and his wife gives
the signal. He does not appear before
her guests without coat and vest.
What Father sometimes terms "his
little joke' may cause untold embarrass
ment for. a gentfe, refined daughter. If
a father considers that young men pro
long their calls until too late an hour, he
should make a point of seeing the boys
during the day and explaining to them
In a quiet but firm manner that he does
not approve of such late hours for his
girls, but he never should shout down
stairs that it Is time for young folks to
retire or make so-called funny remarks
about gas bills and "sparking When
his daughters are entertaining young girl
friends, especially from out of town, he
shows them the same courtesy he would
extend to older guests of his wife. We
have quite outgrown the belief that
"Father's little ways" are to be over
looked. No woman wants a boor for a
husband, nor Is any girl proud of a father
who is rude and uncouth.
PRUDENCE 6TANDISH.
of Many Sorts
tablespoon of olive oil that has been
chtlled. and mash until this mixture is
a pulp. Add gradually four tablespoons
of good white wine vinegar, mix thor
oughly again and add more vinegar and
oil in proportion of two-thirds oil to one
third vinegar, until you have a quart In
all. Press through a fine strainer Into
a stone or glass jar and set in a cold
place until ready for use. Always shake
the dressing thoroughly before pouring
over a salad.
A delicious mixed salad consists of to
matoes, peeled and sliced thin, a few
slices of onion and one cucumber, ar
ranged in layers on a bed of crisp lettuce,
with French dressing poured over.
This is an excellent way to use up
vegetable leftovers. Have for your foun
dation a bed of crisp white lettuce heart
IF PERPLEXED IN MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to Miaa Dm, Mln Morton or Miss
Stnndlsh, care The Sunday Orea-onlan, Inclosing a self-addressed aad .tamped envelope for reply. This la a
quicker method than having your question answered In the column of the paper. Besides, you receive a
personal. Intimate answer. Be earef nl to addresa your return envelope accurately. Letters come back to
us every day, stamped "Insufficient addrcM1 or "party cannot he found.9
with German Val and a bow of Dresden
ribbon. A similar effect can be obtained
by leaving out the lace and bow: or in
sertions of embroidery can be substituted
with a heavier material, like lawn or
voile. - Then, too, the yoke can be worn
or not. This dress Is made with a body
lining, which is faced to form a yoke. The
yoke can be made of allover lace or em
broidery, or of the goods trimmed with
rows of lace. The dress itself is shirred
to form a girdle and is fastened on the
lining. The quantttly required to make a
dress for a child of 6 is 5 yards of 27
inch goods, or of goods 36 inches wide,
and if trimmed 'like the model shown 14
yards of lace would be required.
Percales and zephyr ginghams in plain
colors, plaids, checks and stripes are used
for the every-day dress. The heavy linen
has been found too warm for the young
sters to play in. and much too hard to
launder. French percale costs a little
more in the beginning, but it will hold the
color better than anything, unless it be
a good quality of Scotch gingham. The
g'ulmpe dress is most practical for this
sort of wear, as in extremely hot weather
the guimpe can be discarded. The model
that is shown today is an easy and very
practical - one. It can be made in almost
any material from light-weight cheviot
to a linen lawn. It is made with waist
and skirt. It has two plain backs and
tucked fronts that are crossed fto give the
surplice effect, and is Joined to the skirt
with a band of Insertion. The .sleeves are
plain, full and loose. The guimpe is en
tirely separate and should be faced with
any desired embroidery or lace, while the
sleeves can be full length or elbow. The
quantity required to make this dress in
medium size would be 6 yards of 27-inch
material; yards of goods 36 inches
wide and about a yard of allover mate
rial for the guimpe. This is a very good
traveling dress, made up in some light
weight mixed material, or natural colored
pongee. Blue serge, or any plain dark
goods shows the spots so clearly that a
mixed material is preferable for this pur
pose. Pongee, trimmed with a little ecru
batiste, embroidery and evru guimpe is
very practical, and dark blue and white
checked material outlined in plain dark
blue is also to be recommended.
The suspender dress still holds its own
among the newer models and is a good
way to wear out last season's shirtwaists,
and the model here made up m checks
Suspender Dress With Epaulet
leaves. On one quarter of the salad dish
or platter, arrange a mound- of cold
string bean's; on another quarter -have
tomatoes cut in small disks and onions
chopped fine; on a third quarter arrange
some asparagus tips and on the last,
cold beets with chopped white of eggs
and yolks pressed through a vegetable
press. Pour French dressing - over all,
mix the vegetables together before serv
ing and be sure to have all ice cold.
To Clean a Copper Kettle.
- Copper kettles, and, indeed, copper uten
sils of all sorts, are often very hard to
clean. A good method Is to cut a lemon
In half and rub over the kettle, with it.
After a thorough rubbing the kettle
should be carefully rinsed in clear, cold
water and given a final polish with a
soft cloth. Never attempt to polish cop
per cooking utensils with the prepara
tions used for brasses, etc., but simply
rub them well with a woolen cloth. Dry
them thoroughly after washing, as they
gather rust very easily, and It is almost
impossible to eradicate it.
Portuguese Salad.
Slice two medium sized, firm cucumbers,
one small Spanish onion, two medium
sized tomatoes, two sweet peppers, and
two sound apples, from which the cores
have been removed. Mix In a salad bowl
with four tablespoons of French dressing.
Serve plain or on lettuce leaves, ice cold.
The Tiger lily.
BY MAT EAGAN.
Long vars atfo In Kiowerland,
There dwelt a lily tall.
She held her head in scornful prld
Above the flowers all.
Indeed, I soon shall marry
A fairy prince so fine,"
She often Bald, with regal sir, -
"And then all things are mine."
The flowers shook their pretty heads;
Such thoughts were great forsooth.
But f:eIdomVad a flower wed
With such a fairy youth.
One day a tiger, regally dressed,
Came loping through the wood.
And at the pretty lily's eld
Enchanted long he stood.
Next day the folk In Flowerland
Were much surprised to hear
Swfet lily had eloped with him;
The news spread far and near.
. "A fairy prince, indeed!" they cried,"
"We'd rather far stay here.
Than travel to the tiger's home.
She'll sorry be we fear."
Sweet lily, quite contended, though.
With choice that she had made.
Became the tiger's princess wife.
In gorgeous hues arrayed.
And that is how. Small Pitchers,
The tiger lily grew.
The children of this tiger's queen
Have spot, and tiger's hue.
PARTY DRESS, EMPIRE STYLE,
or stripes is charming. A new touch is
given to it by the epaulet effect on the
shoulders, and large pearl buttons will
help to hold them down in place. This
is an exceedingly good model for natural
linen, piped with dark brown, and smoked
pearl buttons, with stitchlngs of dark
brown silk. It also makes up well in the
plain colored chambrays. Light blue, piped
with dark blue, with dark blue bone but
tons: and pink chambray, piped with bias
bands of some pink and white striped
goods are a couple of suggestions of the
possibilities of this model. This dress con
sists of three pieces the skirt, the sus
penders and the guimpe. The guimpe is
Exercises for Girls at the Awkward Age
THIS Is the season of the year when
the average mother discovers that
the girl who has been bending over
her desk all year at school needs some
attention. She la ail angles, bones and
humping shoulders.
if she Is an unwise mother she alter
natively scolds and doses poor Miss Fif
teen' with oils, emulsionB, etc. If she is
versed In the ways, heart, and sensitive
ness of youth, she seeks to divert the
girl's mind into pleasant channels which
will lead to outdoor life, correct walking
and sane exercising.
First of all. she induces the girl to drink
quantities of water, in order to flush her
system thoroughly. Then she sets before
her in most appealing form quantities of
fresh, crisp vegetable salads drenched in
French dressing made with pure olive oil
and the best of cider vinegar, also eggs,
either raw in milk, or boiled soft or
poached, but never fried. She lets her
have good candy in moderation but no
rich pastries or cakes or made dishes.
The best meats for the growing girl are
rare roast beef or thick juicy steak or
chicken, never veal or pork.
If possible, this wise mother takes
walks. with her daughter and by example
as well as precept teaches her proper car
riage. So many girls walk with one hip
higher than the other, or with the abdo
men protruding and the chest sunken,
or with one shoulder higher than the
other. These defects glossed over in
girlhood, become aggravated and un
sightly in young womanhood.
The first principle of correct walking is
expansion of the chest, which should be
carried forward as if an unpinned rose
was balanced upon it end must be car
ried there throughout the walk. Then
the body is balanced on the right foot,
with the ear, shoulder, hip and ankle all
in a straight line, while the left foot, is
extended, the toe touching the ground
first, and then the left foot coming quick
ly into a position such as was described
for the right foot, as the body is swung
forward for the next step and the sup
porting foot in turn raised from heel to
toe to be swung out. This' morning walk
should be brisk and business-like, with no
particular object. The arms should swing
lightly at either side, and some walking
enthusiasts carry corks in their hands
while taking the morning constitutional.
As soon as the girl has learned to walk
in this perfectly erect yet springy man
ner, let her try running, .but not to ex
ercise thus until dizziness overtakes her
or palpitation of the heart sets in.
Next a few simple exercises for round
shoulders.
Stand with the heels together, the
I3T FINK PINK DOTTED SWISS.
extremely simple, one with Just tucks
forming a yoke effeot, and bishop sleeves.
This skirt 1b made of five gores laid in
pleats, and the suspenders, made in two
portions, are buttoned on the belt of the
skirt. To make a dress for a child of 10
years you must have 3i yards of 27-lnch
material; Zhi yards of 36-irich material, or
zH yards of goods 44 inches wide. It
takes 5V4 yards of banding (a yard of
goods cut in strips will make this much).
To make the guimpe will require about
two yards of goods 36 inches wide.
All of the children should certainly have
Mheir own bathing suits, for it is never
wise to hire one. Many diseases have
abdomen In, the chest high and extended
out, the chin in, the head erect. Clasp
the hands behind the body, with the
palms turned upward and the thumbs
touching the body. This position, if
taken correctly, throws the chest high and
draws the shoulders back. Now loosen
the thumbs, but do not unclasp the hands,
and turn them slowly at the wrists until
the palms are down and the thumbs
apart and out. Make sure you are stand
ing (irmly on your feet, then bend slowly
at the waist, keeping knees stiff, and raise
the clasped hands as far as possible to
ward the front or above the head. Swing
the hands back and forth, still clasped,
while you count 30. "When first taking
this exercise, resume the normal position
of hands and body after counting 20.
Later on you will be able to rest by
merely stopping the swinging motion. This
exercise will not only straighten shoul
ders and Increase chest expansion, but it
will put flesh on the shoulder blades and
on the upper arm.
Another exercise which is Invaluable for
round shouldered girls is this: Swing the
hands together lightly behind the back,
then stiffen the arms so that the palms
of the hands are together, finger tips
down. Just below the waist line. Turn
the hands forward until the finger tips
point up. with the palms together and
the elbows out at right angles with the
body. Now run the finger tips slowly
up the spinal column, palms together,
until the finger tips touch the nap of
the neck. Reverse the entire movement
A New Geography Game
ANT number of players up to twenty
six may take part in this game.
Seated In a row, one selects a letter of the
alphabet and answers whenever a city or
country commencing with that letter Is
mentioned.
A leader is chosen and commences thus:
The King of Geog, his face a-frown
Set out to search for more renown.
At first he went to Cambridgetown.
At the mention of Cambridge the player
who chose C as his letter replies quickly:
At Cambridge he was seen a day.
But now to Lowell's gone away.
The one who chose L must make
answer quickly:
At Lowell he was seen a day,
But now to Brooklyn's sailed away.
If B should not be paving attention
to the game and forgets that Brooklyn
commenced with his letter and so miss
his turn, he has to go to the very foot
of the line (the head and foot must be
determined before commencing the
game), and each player between blm and
the foot moves up one seat, at the same
time taking the letter that belonged to
the player ahead of him. Thus, if eight
were playing and seated in this order,
T-A-W-B-H-R-P-M, and the player who
been contracted from the hired bathing
suits, and children are very susceptible
to these skin eruptions in the Summer.
Children are never very active in the
water and hence it is better to make
their suits of rather heavy material, such
as flannel or light-weight serge. Mohair
is not recommended for the little ones.
Many little girls are seen on the beaches
with white serge suits on, trimmed with a
contrasting color, either dark blue or red.
and this trimming Is made of pique, silk
or wash braid. The boys should be put in
the popular blue, and after all, the white
braid is about as satisfactory as anything.
The cut given here is a splendid one, as
it will answer for both girl and boy and
can be worn with or without the skirt
portion. Put the tie on the girl but not
on the little boy. Another popular Com
bination Is maroon serge, trimmed with
white braid and a Windsor tie of soft
silk. The suit Is made with blouse,
knickerbockers and skirt. The blouse is
very simple gathered at the bottom and
Joined to the belt of the knickerbockers.
It is better to hem the knickerbockers
and run a piece' of elastic through them
in bloomer style particularly for the
girls, though many of the boys like them
plain. The skirt is straight and gathered
onto a belt, which is buttoned on in place.
It will take M yards of material 27 inches
wide, or 3Vs yards of goods 44 inches wide.
Three-quarters of a yard of goods cut in
bias strips will do for the trimming.
There are almost as many accessories to
the children's belongings as to those of
their mothers' this season. Extra sets
of collars and cuffs, fluted strips to but
ton on the little shirtwaists of the boys,
and ties of all colors and materials are
seen everywhere. Brass buttons are very
prevalent and there seems to be an out
going of the white shoes and stockings
in favor of the brown and tan shades for
footwear. Boys wear only Tarn o'Shan
ter and large - rolling brim straw hats,
while the girls cling to the dainty lingerie
hat that can always be ripped up. washed,
starched and put together again. The
babies wear the little linen and pique
hats that have a crown to burton on.
These protect the baby's eyes and are far
superior to the cap for Summer. Soft
little lawn strings will keep them on.
MARY DBAN".
and rest before repeating the exercise.
Both of these exercises must be taken
lightly at first, not repeating them more
than once. There is just as muoh dan
ger in over-exertion for the growing girl
as in too little exercise.
A light bamboo rod, four or five feet in
length, will help wonderfully in straight-
enlng. out the shoulders. Later this bam
boo rod may be changed to a broomstick
and later still to bar-bells such as are
used in the regulation gymnasium. Swing
the rod up under the chin, with the hands
the width of the chest apart, clasping It
lightly. Be sure you stand in s perfectly
correct position and inhale through the
nose, not through the mouth. Now
swing the rod up. straight over the bead
four times, on four counts, keeping the
abdomen In. Drop back to the original
position under the chin after each count,
or on the "and" thus; up on 1, down on
"and," up on 2 and down on "and
just as you count in first playing the
piano. Next swing the rod up straight
over the head and on the counts, drop It
behind the shoulders, still keeping the
hands the width of the chest apart. Raise
the rod on the "ande" and drop on the
counts and finally alternate, dropping
the rod in the front on the odd counts,
1, 3, 5, 7, raising It over the head on
the "anus" and dropping It behind the
shoulders on the even counts, 2, 4, 6, &.
and resting eight counts before repeating
the exercise. This is not fatiguing but
excellent in results.
KATHERINB MORTON.
held the fourth seat should miss his turn
when "Syracuse" was called, he would go
down to seat M and M would be his let
ter till some one else failed. H would
move In the place of S, taking that as
his letter: R would move into the place
of H, taking that letter, and so forth.
To make this into a school game
which will be very useful in learning the
location' of cities, the plan can be changed
as:
At Cambridge he was one day late.
For this is Massachusetts State.
He now in Lowell seeks his fate. '
The one who chose L will reply:
At Lowell he was one day late.
This, too, in Massachusetts State.
He now in Brooklyn seeks his fate.
The changing of seats and letters makes
the game very exciting.
Mending a Pitcher.
To mend a pitcher that is cracked take
white lead or. white paint, and paint over
the crack in the inside of the pitcher,
rubbing well Into the crack. If neces
sary give several coats. There is nothing
so good as white lead to mend china, but
after mending the china must be set
away long enough for the lead to harden.
"Wlilte Serge Bathing Snttk