THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JUNE 23, 190T. j&ITOPOHPEHCL ?A5, of fA5fflOH3 AHP BAVtj) Plain But Pleasing Vacation Raiment for the Little Ones PLAINER than ever are the styles for children this season, and It Is the dress that Is well cut and made of nice material that counts rather than the one elaborately trimmed. Of course there Is the dainty batiste dress for the party that every child loves, but on the whole the simple frock, with straight lines is what the shops are selling. The same thins can be said of the coat, as can be seen by the illustration here. This par ticular model has only the shoulder and under-arm seams. It has large pockets with broad laps and the fronts are faced to form lapels, and it has the regulation coat sleeves. To make the medium size of this coat it would take 3'i yards of material 27 inches wide; 2 yards of goods 44 Inchea. and about 1 yards in 62-lnch width. This model makes up very well In the small checked cheviot, and black and white shepherd's plaid with a little are of the tan covert cloth, and the model emblem on the arm gives It a good dash of color and style. The boys' coats are Indeed making "little men" of them. They are of the tan covert cloth, and the bodel 'Is exactly like that his father wears. A regular little Spring overcoat. Some of ' them are lined with twilled lining, but ; most of them are not. Boys, from 4 years it;p to young men, all wear these, and the little fellow with such a coat on Is proud ' indeed. Going back to the girls again, the baby coats are often made of dotted swlss, ' with three deep tucks around the bot tom. These coats must have a silk lining to give them warmth, but are extremely Inexpensive and will wash well. Numer , ous other coats of dark blue linen are seen with white sailor collars on them embroidered In dark blue also the white 'linen coats with dark blue linen sailor ; collars with white embroidery. These ! coats have the advantage over the light Coat With Only Shoulder and I'b d era rm Sea ma. Etiquette for the Man HOW many wives and daughters have suffered agonies .of embarrassment over the carelessness If not rudeness nf the man of the house! How often do you hear women apoloKize for Mights piU upon guests within their gates on the pcore that It Is "just Father's way!. The average man who may be a model pro vider for hta family, an admirable citizen. n honorable business man or a pillar in the church, brings blushes to the cheeks of his women folks by his utterant indif ference to the little courtesies which go to make the family life elegant. And strangely enough, this same man. guest In another household, 1b a model of good manners. At another table, he will stand until hn hostess is seated or until other guests take their places. At his own table, he eeats himself before the casual guest does, flourishes his carving knife and fork or opens up hie napkin as If impatient of delay. "While his wife is pouring his breakfast coffee, he will glance over his paper and manloure his finder nails, until the scratch-scratch of his penknife or file. Kets every nerve in his wife's body a-tingle. The minute the meat course has been removed from the dinner table, he demands a toothpick and during the remainder of the meal, he continues to perform dental operations until his guests are almost nauseated and his women folk sick with shame. When callers come in after tea and he is not particularly Interested in their con versation, he picks up a paper and pro ceeds to Ignore their presence or to glare at the women folk as if talking in his prepenoe were a crime. If there Is some special social event under way. that is the time when he turns obstinate and de clares that If he cannot go in his sack unit, he stays at home and what is more he proposes to go. "Jones Is a sensible chap, and I'll bet he won t be in evening clothes." is bis excuse, but his wife knows better, and sure enough he finds himself one of the very few men in busi ness attire, but he excuses himself on the plea that if a man is a success In business he cannot play the social game, too. Not long ago. a prospective bride wrote to me that while her wedding was to be celebrated at high noon and before quite a large gathering of friends in a church, her fiance had postlvely refused to don a frock coat, because he thought it was all nonsense and he looked much better In the sack suit, in which they would start on their Journey. The girl wanted to know how she should dress to suit his attire. Her wedding gown of white mull was all finished but perhaps after alt it would be better If she changed to her traveling gown and used the wedding frock afterward for dances, etc. I only hope she showed her fiance my reply. He deserved that and more. too. The man who marries a girl accustomed to the manners of good society, a girt given to the little elegancies of life, and FRACmAL GrlMffiSFORPlAY OR TRAVEL. colored cheviot ones In that they will launder. Colored lawns, Swisses and mulls seem to have crowded themselves into the chil dren's Summer wardrobe. Pink swlss with a white figure, trimmed with ecru val; blue mulls with a silk dot, trimmed with pure white point de Paris lace; blue and white checks and stripes In mull or voile who determines from the very start that he will not obey the rules of good form, is starting the matrimonial game all wrong. He Is storing up unhapplness for the girl and for himself. He may even be turning his face all unconsciously to wards the divorce court. A woman will forgive many big wrongs in a man, but she will fret and chafe under his small faults and bad manners. The man who scorns the rules of eti quette, which after all are the simplest rules of thoughtfulness towards others, has no right to mingle In society with his good wife. He ought to give her and his well-bred daughters an allowance and hie himself off to a cave or nut. The man who accompanies nls wife to the theater, should wear evening clothes if they are going to a fashionable play house, or If they are to occupy incon spicuous seats In the. balcony, and his wife Is wearing a plain tailored! suit, he should at least change his linen, don a fresh tie, wear his best overcoat, hat and gloves. On entering the theater, he finds programmes for her, helps her off with her wraps and makes her comrortable before seating himself. Many a woman has been forced to appear domineering simply be cause her husband was so careless In these matters that she was obliged to get her own program, arrange her wraps, etc. When walking with his wife to church or for a promenade, he raises his hat whenever she speaks to persons they meet, whether men or women, and when he speaks to any one whom his wife may not know. He helps her on a car and Summer Salads THE first requisite of a delicious Sum mer salad Is French dressing. Boiled dressings or mayonaise are rather heavy to combine w-lth fresh vegetables. The real French dressing sounds like a complicated article, but It can be made In quantities, poured into a covered jar and kept on Ice Indefinitely. Its flavour Is truly delicious and far above the In sipid mixture of oil and vinegar which generally passes under the title of "French dressing In a deep china bowl, place a level teaspoon of Oriental curry powder, half a teaspoon of French mustard, a light saltspoon of English ground mustard; a light salt spoon of cayenne pepper; one teaspoon of parsley, fresh, finely chopped, washed and drained; half a teaspoon of finely chopped, fresh chives; two medium shallots, peeled and chopped, one-fourth of a small bean of garlic finely crushed; four teaspoons of salt, and one light tea spoon of white pepper, the rind of a quarter of lemon, finely chopped. Mix these ingredients together firmly with a silver or wooden fork, and then add a all have found their place. This does not mean that white is not worn, but that colors are seen much more than for sev eral years. For the little daughter from 4 to 8 years old nothing is sweeter and quainter for dancing parties than this little empire dress, which can be made in pink." blue or white. This model was made up in fine pink dotted Swiss, inset of the House follows her, while In leaving the car, he precedes her and helps her off. He al ways has small change in his pocket, and does not embarrass her by asking in a loud voice, "Mother, did you bring your purse? I'm broke." When his wife is entertaining friends at dinner, he remembers that even though they be comparative strangers to him, he Is their host. He pulls out the chair of each woman guest, and pushes the chair forward as she seats herself. He waits upon these guests, first, his wife next and himself last. He does not leave the table until all have finished and his wife gives the signal. He does not appear before her guests without coat and vest. What Father sometimes terms "his little joke' may cause untold embarrass ment for. a gentfe, refined daughter. If a father considers that young men pro long their calls until too late an hour, he should make a point of seeing the boys during the day and explaining to them In a quiet but firm manner that he does not approve of such late hours for his girls, but he never should shout down stairs that it Is time for young folks to retire or make so-called funny remarks about gas bills and "sparking When his daughters are entertaining young girl friends, especially from out of town, he shows them the same courtesy he would extend to older guests of his wife. We have quite outgrown the belief that "Father's little ways" are to be over looked. No woman wants a boor for a husband, nor Is any girl proud of a father who is rude and uncouth. PRUDENCE 6TANDISH. of Many Sorts tablespoon of olive oil that has been chtlled. and mash until this mixture is a pulp. Add gradually four tablespoons of good white wine vinegar, mix thor oughly again and add more vinegar and oil in proportion of two-thirds oil to one third vinegar, until you have a quart In all. Press through a fine strainer Into a stone or glass jar and set in a cold place until ready for use. Always shake the dressing thoroughly before pouring over a salad. A delicious mixed salad consists of to matoes, peeled and sliced thin, a few slices of onion and one cucumber, ar ranged in layers on a bed of crisp lettuce, with French dressing poured over. This is an excellent way to use up vegetable leftovers. Have for your foun dation a bed of crisp white lettuce heart IF PERPLEXED IN MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to Miaa Dm, Mln Morton or Miss Stnndlsh, care The Sunday Orea-onlan, Inclosing a self-addressed aad .tamped envelope for reply. This la a quicker method than having your question answered In the column of the paper. Besides, you receive a personal. Intimate answer. Be earef nl to addresa your return envelope accurately. Letters come back to us every day, stamped "Insufficient addrcM1 or "party cannot he found.9 with German Val and a bow of Dresden ribbon. A similar effect can be obtained by leaving out the lace and bow: or in sertions of embroidery can be substituted with a heavier material, like lawn or voile. - Then, too, the yoke can be worn or not. This dress Is made with a body lining, which is faced to form a yoke. The yoke can be made of allover lace or em broidery, or of the goods trimmed with rows of lace. The dress itself is shirred to form a girdle and is fastened on the lining. The quantttly required to make a dress for a child of 6 is 5 yards of 27 inch goods, or of goods 36 inches wide, and if trimmed 'like the model shown 14 yards of lace would be required. Percales and zephyr ginghams in plain colors, plaids, checks and stripes are used for the every-day dress. The heavy linen has been found too warm for the young sters to play in. and much too hard to launder. French percale costs a little more in the beginning, but it will hold the color better than anything, unless it be a good quality of Scotch gingham. The g'ulmpe dress is most practical for this sort of wear, as in extremely hot weather the guimpe can be discarded. The model that is shown today is an easy and very practical - one. It can be made in almost any material from light-weight cheviot to a linen lawn. It is made with waist and skirt. It has two plain backs and tucked fronts that are crossed fto give the surplice effect, and is Joined to the skirt with a band of Insertion. The .sleeves are plain, full and loose. The guimpe is en tirely separate and should be faced with any desired embroidery or lace, while the sleeves can be full length or elbow. The quantity required to make this dress in medium size would be 6 yards of 27-inch material; yards of goods 36 inches wide and about a yard of allover mate rial for the guimpe. This is a very good traveling dress, made up in some light weight mixed material, or natural colored pongee. Blue serge, or any plain dark goods shows the spots so clearly that a mixed material is preferable for this pur pose. Pongee, trimmed with a little ecru batiste, embroidery and evru guimpe is very practical, and dark blue and white checked material outlined in plain dark blue is also to be recommended. The suspender dress still holds its own among the newer models and is a good way to wear out last season's shirtwaists, and the model here made up m checks Suspender Dress With Epaulet leaves. On one quarter of the salad dish or platter, arrange a mound- of cold string bean's; on another quarter -have tomatoes cut in small disks and onions chopped fine; on a third quarter arrange some asparagus tips and on the last, cold beets with chopped white of eggs and yolks pressed through a vegetable press. Pour French dressing - over all, mix the vegetables together before serv ing and be sure to have all ice cold. To Clean a Copper Kettle. - Copper kettles, and, indeed, copper uten sils of all sorts, are often very hard to clean. A good method Is to cut a lemon In half and rub over the kettle, with it. After a thorough rubbing the kettle should be carefully rinsed in clear, cold water and given a final polish with a soft cloth. Never attempt to polish cop per cooking utensils with the prepara tions used for brasses, etc., but simply rub them well with a woolen cloth. Dry them thoroughly after washing, as they gather rust very easily, and It is almost impossible to eradicate it. Portuguese Salad. Slice two medium sized, firm cucumbers, one small Spanish onion, two medium sized tomatoes, two sweet peppers, and two sound apples, from which the cores have been removed. Mix In a salad bowl with four tablespoons of French dressing. Serve plain or on lettuce leaves, ice cold. The Tiger lily. BY MAT EAGAN. Long vars atfo In Kiowerland, There dwelt a lily tall. She held her head in scornful prld Above the flowers all. Indeed, I soon shall marry A fairy prince so fine," She often Bald, with regal sir, - "And then all things are mine." The flowers shook their pretty heads; Such thoughts were great forsooth. But f:eIdomVad a flower wed With such a fairy youth. One day a tiger, regally dressed, Came loping through the wood. And at the pretty lily's eld Enchanted long he stood. Next day the folk In Flowerland Were much surprised to hear Swfet lily had eloped with him; The news spread far and near. . "A fairy prince, indeed!" they cried," "We'd rather far stay here. Than travel to the tiger's home. She'll sorry be we fear." Sweet lily, quite contended, though. With choice that she had made. Became the tiger's princess wife. In gorgeous hues arrayed. And that is how. Small Pitchers, The tiger lily grew. The children of this tiger's queen Have spot, and tiger's hue. PARTY DRESS, EMPIRE STYLE, or stripes is charming. A new touch is given to it by the epaulet effect on the shoulders, and large pearl buttons will help to hold them down in place. This is an exceedingly good model for natural linen, piped with dark brown, and smoked pearl buttons, with stitchlngs of dark brown silk. It also makes up well in the plain colored chambrays. Light blue, piped with dark blue, with dark blue bone but tons: and pink chambray, piped with bias bands of some pink and white striped goods are a couple of suggestions of the possibilities of this model. This dress con sists of three pieces the skirt, the sus penders and the guimpe. The guimpe is Exercises for Girls at the Awkward Age THIS Is the season of the year when the average mother discovers that the girl who has been bending over her desk all year at school needs some attention. She la ail angles, bones and humping shoulders. if she Is an unwise mother she alter natively scolds and doses poor Miss Fif teen' with oils, emulsionB, etc. If she is versed In the ways, heart, and sensitive ness of youth, she seeks to divert the girl's mind into pleasant channels which will lead to outdoor life, correct walking and sane exercising. First of all. she induces the girl to drink quantities of water, in order to flush her system thoroughly. Then she sets before her in most appealing form quantities of fresh, crisp vegetable salads drenched in French dressing made with pure olive oil and the best of cider vinegar, also eggs, either raw in milk, or boiled soft or poached, but never fried. She lets her have good candy in moderation but no rich pastries or cakes or made dishes. The best meats for the growing girl are rare roast beef or thick juicy steak or chicken, never veal or pork. If possible, this wise mother takes walks. with her daughter and by example as well as precept teaches her proper car riage. So many girls walk with one hip higher than the other, or with the abdo men protruding and the chest sunken, or with one shoulder higher than the other. These defects glossed over in girlhood, become aggravated and un sightly in young womanhood. The first principle of correct walking is expansion of the chest, which should be carried forward as if an unpinned rose was balanced upon it end must be car ried there throughout the walk. Then the body is balanced on the right foot, with the ear, shoulder, hip and ankle all in a straight line, while the left foot, is extended, the toe touching the ground first, and then the left foot coming quick ly into a position such as was described for the right foot, as the body is swung forward for the next step and the sup porting foot in turn raised from heel to toe to be swung out. This' morning walk should be brisk and business-like, with no particular object. The arms should swing lightly at either side, and some walking enthusiasts carry corks in their hands while taking the morning constitutional. As soon as the girl has learned to walk in this perfectly erect yet springy man ner, let her try running, .but not to ex ercise thus until dizziness overtakes her or palpitation of the heart sets in. Next a few simple exercises for round shoulders. Stand with the heels together, the I3T FINK PINK DOTTED SWISS. extremely simple, one with Just tucks forming a yoke effeot, and bishop sleeves. This skirt 1b made of five gores laid in pleats, and the suspenders, made in two portions, are buttoned on the belt of the skirt. To make a dress for a child of 10 years you must have 3i yards of 27-lnch material; Zhi yards of 36-irich material, or zH yards of goods 44 inches wide. It takes 5V4 yards of banding (a yard of goods cut in strips will make this much). To make the guimpe will require about two yards of goods 36 inches wide. All of the children should certainly have Mheir own bathing suits, for it is never wise to hire one. Many diseases have abdomen In, the chest high and extended out, the chin in, the head erect. Clasp the hands behind the body, with the palms turned upward and the thumbs touching the body. This position, if taken correctly, throws the chest high and draws the shoulders back. Now loosen the thumbs, but do not unclasp the hands, and turn them slowly at the wrists until the palms are down and the thumbs apart and out. Make sure you are stand ing (irmly on your feet, then bend slowly at the waist, keeping knees stiff, and raise the clasped hands as far as possible to ward the front or above the head. Swing the hands back and forth, still clasped, while you count 30. "When first taking this exercise, resume the normal position of hands and body after counting 20. Later on you will be able to rest by merely stopping the swinging motion. This exercise will not only straighten shoul ders and Increase chest expansion, but it will put flesh on the shoulder blades and on the upper arm. Another exercise which is Invaluable for round shouldered girls is this: Swing the hands together lightly behind the back, then stiffen the arms so that the palms of the hands are together, finger tips down. Just below the waist line. Turn the hands forward until the finger tips point up. with the palms together and the elbows out at right angles with the body. Now run the finger tips slowly up the spinal column, palms together, until the finger tips touch the nap of the neck. Reverse the entire movement A New Geography Game ANT number of players up to twenty six may take part in this game. Seated In a row, one selects a letter of the alphabet and answers whenever a city or country commencing with that letter Is mentioned. A leader is chosen and commences thus: The King of Geog, his face a-frown Set out to search for more renown. At first he went to Cambridgetown. At the mention of Cambridge the player who chose C as his letter replies quickly: At Cambridge he was seen a day. But now to Lowell's gone away. The one who chose L must make answer quickly: At Lowell he was seen a day, But now to Brooklyn's sailed away. If B should not be paving attention to the game and forgets that Brooklyn commenced with his letter and so miss his turn, he has to go to the very foot of the line (the head and foot must be determined before commencing the game), and each player between blm and the foot moves up one seat, at the same time taking the letter that belonged to the player ahead of him. Thus, if eight were playing and seated in this order, T-A-W-B-H-R-P-M, and the player who been contracted from the hired bathing suits, and children are very susceptible to these skin eruptions in the Summer. Children are never very active in the water and hence it is better to make their suits of rather heavy material, such as flannel or light-weight serge. Mohair is not recommended for the little ones. Many little girls are seen on the beaches with white serge suits on, trimmed with a contrasting color, either dark blue or red. and this trimming Is made of pique, silk or wash braid. The boys should be put in the popular blue, and after all, the white braid is about as satisfactory as anything. The cut given here is a splendid one, as it will answer for both girl and boy and can be worn with or without the skirt portion. Put the tie on the girl but not on the little boy. Another popular Com bination Is maroon serge, trimmed with white braid and a Windsor tie of soft silk. The suit Is made with blouse, knickerbockers and skirt. The blouse is very simple gathered at the bottom and Joined to the belt of the knickerbockers. It is better to hem the knickerbockers and run a piece' of elastic through them in bloomer style particularly for the girls, though many of the boys like them plain. The skirt is straight and gathered onto a belt, which is buttoned on in place. It will take M yards of material 27 inches wide, or 3Vs yards of goods 44 inches wide. Three-quarters of a yard of goods cut in bias strips will do for the trimming. There are almost as many accessories to the children's belongings as to those of their mothers' this season. Extra sets of collars and cuffs, fluted strips to but ton on the little shirtwaists of the boys, and ties of all colors and materials are seen everywhere. Brass buttons are very prevalent and there seems to be an out going of the white shoes and stockings in favor of the brown and tan shades for footwear. Boys wear only Tarn o'Shan ter and large - rolling brim straw hats, while the girls cling to the dainty lingerie hat that can always be ripped up. washed, starched and put together again. The babies wear the little linen and pique hats that have a crown to burton on. These protect the baby's eyes and are far superior to the cap for Summer. Soft little lawn strings will keep them on. MARY DBAN". and rest before repeating the exercise. Both of these exercises must be taken lightly at first, not repeating them more than once. There is just as muoh dan ger in over-exertion for the growing girl as in too little exercise. A light bamboo rod, four or five feet in length, will help wonderfully in straight- enlng. out the shoulders. Later this bam boo rod may be changed to a broomstick and later still to bar-bells such as are used in the regulation gymnasium. Swing the rod up under the chin, with the hands the width of the chest apart, clasping It lightly. Be sure you stand in s perfectly correct position and inhale through the nose, not through the mouth. Now swing the rod up. straight over the bead four times, on four counts, keeping the abdomen In. Drop back to the original position under the chin after each count, or on the "and" thus; up on 1, down on "and," up on 2 and down on "and just as you count in first playing the piano. Next swing the rod up straight over the head and on the counts, drop It behind the shoulders, still keeping the hands the width of the chest apart. Raise the rod on the "ande" and drop on the counts and finally alternate, dropping the rod in the front on the odd counts, 1, 3, 5, 7, raising It over the head on the "anus" and dropping It behind the shoulders on the even counts, 2, 4, 6, &. and resting eight counts before repeating the exercise. This is not fatiguing but excellent in results. KATHERINB MORTON. held the fourth seat should miss his turn when "Syracuse" was called, he would go down to seat M and M would be his let ter till some one else failed. H would move In the place of S, taking that as his letter: R would move into the place of H, taking that letter, and so forth. To make this into a school game which will be very useful in learning the location' of cities, the plan can be changed as: At Cambridge he was one day late. For this is Massachusetts State. He now in Lowell seeks his fate. ' The one who chose L will reply: At Lowell he was one day late. This, too, in Massachusetts State. He now in Brooklyn seeks his fate. The changing of seats and letters makes the game very exciting. Mending a Pitcher. To mend a pitcher that is cracked take white lead or. white paint, and paint over the crack in the inside of the pitcher, rubbing well Into the crack. If neces sary give several coats. There is nothing so good as white lead to mend china, but after mending the china must be set away long enough for the lead to harden. "Wlilte Serge Bathing Snttk