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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 27, 1907)
A-tAJS U J U-V 1: 1IHJS I.AIN, POKTLAKD, JANUARY. 37. 197.' CORRESPONDENCES AUTV I rooms for the men as well as for the ladies. Tin- ho8te9 should stand. in the drawing-room to bid her guests wel- come, and after the lmigicaJe is in nrogress she should remain near the door, either sittlns or standing. In or Just What the Young Girl Should Wear Some Hints for Selecting the Becoming Hat After the music and cupper are over she Introduces any ot her guests who ar ewe Rireaay acQiiatntea. ana con verges -with as many oC them as may be possible. A Private Theatrical. Theatrical- sriven t jr-rooms are, as private draw ale, more aui- IRE picious when iven at night, and toe house is arranged in a similar manner to the arrangement for the formal evnln)r musicale. The hostess duties in receiving and entertaining are like wise the same. ' j Good". I'orm for t lie Guests. A guen should make every effort to arrive promptly when Invitations ln- dicate that the proajramme is to be an f.Pror (iowrvs for the, Young Girl. IT lias ton tlie source or gray hairs to many mothers, this trying problem, of drcsfilnK the daughter when she in "between the ages or 13 and 17. Many beau- tlful fabrics for Hie small girl and fur the girl In her teens are to be seen, this AS" I ii tor. Flii.itI an l checks have a guod following, and broadcloths for Semi-tailor and the tailored costumes are much used, There are great varieties of taffetas from which to neleot. satins, moires and a Iso voJle still have an exceptional hold on the fashionable public. Its usefunesa both in making up and durabiity hava aiven it the lead for so many yearn, and npeaka a convincing word for its contin uance as a fahlonabefabrl. Velvets are a source ot much delight to the girl, and her first velvet costume is almost aa nuich of an epoch as her first beau. This year's fashions have decreed that this material Is smart for the very young, the middle-aged and the old. The colors are particularly fascinating, coming in Lon don smoke, or the new pray, ceil blue, rich fE-olden brown and deep crimson, all of which are pretty shades for the young glrl'i Is costume. It is well to remember that tight ef fects should never be used with girls of This afire, for these only make her appear tho more awkward. Her garments should be loose, thereby giving: aa much grace to her frocks as possible. Her waists should have plenty of fullness in them. A good plan Is to have tucks, running from the shoulder down the blouse, and forming a V yoke, to insure sufficient fullness or liaRAinoss at the waist line. This helps to hide the sharp angles of the growing- Kfrl. If the frock Is to be of plaid, it Hhould not be trimmed in contrasting shades. A contrasting shade In piping may te used, but sharp effects should be avoided when selecting garments tor her, A good effect is obtained by piping, and also in stitched bands, or folds, or braid. Ruffles of contrasting materials should be avoided. Of course, dancing frocks should be ruffled exten- siveljr. Site "should be furnished with plenty of petticoats, and should always wear several. To maKt n two-piece COBlume of O i kind snows in the design, if it be of ma- iria such as serge, 50 inches vide, about V. yards will be sufficient .goods. Braid should be used on the cufM and around the neck, and It will take about 4 yards for the neck and cuffs of the jacket, and if used on the skirt from three to five rows would prove an effective trimming. For this style of costume the braid ued on tbe skirt should not bo very wide, the Kirt bring a full-plaited skirt, cut on a basis of five gores, with a box plait in front and plaits running the full circle r the skirt. The plaits should be stitched to just below the hip line. The coat is chic and smart, lelng lit the loose hoi t"lp, giving plenty of room in coat and sleeves, and -the myriads of plaits in the -""kl it likewise proving: roomy. If round desirable, the coat may be cut to the regulation pony length. Tho new braids are charmingly fash ioned for trimming these especial cos t urnes. They come in combinations of velvet, pompadour ribbon, with lace and arloii8 other effects. Besides these there arc the sold and silver braids, which are vfry smart, used on brown cloths, serges or cheviots. A rich, brown velvet would be beautiful for a girl of 16. With the 27--inch goods . it would take about SH yards, or if the '0-inch material Is used about yards. 1 n the velvet costumes it Is quite es- annual to have the plaits lay flat, and snitching to the hip line will greatly fa- cilitate the lay of the plaits. Of course , on a velvet skirt there would be no trlm- mtnir, but the collar should have running around it a pre-tty design in lace. Mere madame may select, according to her purse. IrUh lace, Cluny, rose point or baby Irish. For the neck and the sleeves it will require only one yard. A pretty blouse to wear with this cos- lume should have a solid yoke ol lace, or one of lace and embroidery combined, the material used being of silk, linen, batiste or any sheer Btuff. An inexpensive frock could be fash- ioned or Panama cloth, or brilliantine, using deep torchon lace about the neck and sleeves. TMh would be pretty if made of blaclc, brown, blue or red. A costume of wool batiste, or French flannel, would be very smart made after this model, with trimmings of fro Id braid. both around the neck and sleeves, and from three to five rows on the skirt. With this gown my young lady should wear either white topped shoe or black shoes and light-colored spats. A hat of bold braid brim and fur crown, trimmed in yellow Paradise aigrettes, would be an effective completion to this pretty cos tume. The sleeves . to the jacket should be of the three-quarter length and the gloves either of black or yellow. In a seal brown broadcloth, trimmed in Good Form Thi E hostess wtio is ' contemplation entertaining at a, musicale or a ceremonious drawing-room con cert should issue her Invitations from ten days to two- weeks in advance of the date on which the musicale is to be given, using the following form: : Mrs. Edwin Johnson -At UonrisB ' Tuesday evening, February Sixth, at 10 o'clock, Thirteen Akron Place; Music; or. ' Mr. and. Mrs. Edwia Johnson request the pleasure of ' company ' . at a tnuslcsla On - Friday evening, March . Tenth, at ten o'clock, Thirteen Akron Place. It will be well to bear in mind that afternoon musienlea are far less for mal than elaborate drawing-room 'con- certs, which take place in the evening. Invitations to hear a famous soloist or orchestra should be gotten out in the following manner: The hostess mails her visit ing; prd, upon the left- hand corner ' ol whlcn is written: "Tuesday. February Sixth, four to six o'clock, to hear M ni Melba sing." At an afternoon reception. where music is the object of the assemblage, en- graved cards no larger than the joint cards used by the husband and wife, or piother and daughter, are issued bearing this inscription: Mr. and Mrs. .Edwin Johnson, Tuesday. March Tenth; Tea at five o'clock; Wurm'i Oreheitra; Thlrteea Akron Place. If a hostess desires to' give private theatricals, her invitations are best is sued in the form given above for a large private concert, either announc ing herself as at home, and adding,- the words, "Uieatrtcals at hair-past nine," or simply requesting the pleasure of a j black braid, this design would be chic and smart. The skirt, should have very narrow soutache braid running around it. and the braid in an elaborate design should be used on the neck and cuffa of the jacket. The hat to go with this cos- tume would be of brown velvet or of the dress material. If the latter is useri. th trimming should be of braid around the Dnm, ana leathers the shadCof tlie ma terial, with pink roses for back trim ming. In black broadcloth the trimming should be exclusively on the Jacket, and eiLner oaoy irisn lace or Cluny should be used. The hat would be ot black pressed velvet, trimmed with white' tips or Para dise bird. It would take less than five y a ro xo ma Ke ims in the broadcloth . Kor a blonde girl of 15 a beautiful cos tume might be fashioned of crimson vel vet and rich cream lace would be uRd around cuff and neck. A pretty hat would oe or rea velvet, s tin-brimmed, with an undertrimming of lace, and the top trim miner Of white ostrich feath carrying out the color motif, feathers shaded frdm a deep pink to crimson. With this toilette she should wear red gioves, or wmte ones, and black shoes with red spats. T shall be pleased to help you out of any dilemmas resardlnjf this dress prob lem. HELEN HARMAN-BSOWN, at Musicales friend's company at "iPrivate Theatrl- cais." Should trie hostess desire to have dancing follow the play, the word "dancingr should be engraved in one corner of the cards. The second form of Invitation Riven above should usually bear the letter? R. S, V. P. in either the lower left or right-band corner, as the hostess wilt wish to know now many guest's she may expect, the occasion being- one of formality and special preparations be- ingr necessary. Answering Invitations. If an Invitation "requests the pleas ure" of the prospective guests conf- pany, then it must be promptly ac cepted or declined in the third person. If the invitation is in the form of an at-home with music, there Is no neces sity for a reply, as the one Invited accepts by attending: and. if prevented in this, sends his or her cards to the house of the hostess during the after- noon of the musicale. At the ' Erenins Musicale. When the hostess elects to give an evening musicale. and her programme Includes vocal and instrumental mu sic, site should utilise her back parlor, throwing; -the folding; doors open lead- to the drawing-room. All furniture finould he removed, from the back par lor except the Piano, and the drawing room should have a number of small light chairs for the guests to occupy. as good a stage effect as possible lor the artists should be arranged. The dining-room should be arranged as for a recent! on, shoul d the hcitcss intend the musicale to be followed by an elaborate supper. All that is nec- essary, however, in the way of refresh ments for- an occasion of tbis kind Is something? very light, punch, cake, bon bons, ices, sandwiches, bouillon or chocolate. . The hote3s should have dresslnjs- elaborate one and at sl fixed Taour. Upon artfval they go at once to the dress ing-room and. remove their wraps, af ter which they srreet their hostess and find tneir seats. Silence must be maintained during the different numbers, and after a per formance Is finished generous applause should be ftlven the artist. Those arriving late should wait un til the conclusion of a number before finding: a scat. . before leaving-, find your hostess and thank her . for , the pleasure she has given you. At an afternoon musicale, if there is no fixed programme, guests come and jro as at an afternoon reception. The eitquette for private theatricals is the same as at a formal evening concert. ' PRUDENCE STANDISH. Little Things That Help the Housekeeper ' BY ELEANOR CLlAPF. IF for any reason dinner is kept wait ing: for the head of the house, don"t let the meat dry upon the. back of the stove. Put the dish that contains it over a pan of boiling water. , Then put another dish over the meat and a perfectly clean dish towel over all. Tou will find that the steam from the boilbig' water will keep the meat hot for a long time and will not' dry it up or draw the Juices as would be the case if it were put on the back, of the stove or in the fcven. An Easy Way to Skin Bocts. An easy way to skin a beet without bleeding it and causing it to lose color is to put it in cold water as soon as it is cooked. Then draw the hand gently down each one and the skin will drop off without trouble. ' ( To "Try" av Cake. One of the beat plans for ascertaining whether a cake has been cooked enough Is to very lig-hUy insert in the center one of the common wooden skewers that butchers use for meat. if tills conies out clean and dry tlie cako is done, if the skewer is sticky the cakr needs a 1 It tie more cooVtlnje. This is a much better test than the common one of inserting a, broom straw, as the latter is so small It is not altVays easy to judgre properly of its condition. JV W ooden " Spoon, for Stirring. "When cooking milk or soups of any kind always use a wooden spoon for stirring;. Never take a tin spoon for this purpose, especially- If the soup contains any acid like tomatoes as this unites with the tin and lorms a poisonous com- pound. llcati a Ihc Great! Knife. "When you are cutting-- new bread for the table did you ever try putting the knife in hot water? Try it sometime and see if you don't find it cuts much easier. To Boil Eggs Properly. Never cook ffn egg for an invalid in water that bolls furiously, for this makes the white tough and indigestible. Put the egg in toiling water, throw the sauce pan to the back of the stove and allow It to stand for five minutes. This will cook the ess perfectly and the white will be soft and easily digested. Little children should also be given e??s cooked In this way. Tin Bread and Cake Boxes. Always Keep cake and bread in tin boxes, as wooden boxes, unless well sea- oned, are apt to give them a. disagree able taste, and wrapping them in brown paper should be avoided, for the same reason. Bread Pudding. One pint bread crumbs. One cup sugar. Grated peel of one lemon. Yolks of four eggs. One quart of milk. Soak thtj breadcrumbs In the milk about 13 minutes, then add the yolks of eggs well beaten, the. ejrated lemon peel and susar. Beat all rU together and bake about half an hour. . ' After the pudding? is baked cover it with a layer of Jelly and then with the meringue made of the whites of the eattfe beaten stilt, -with four tablespoonfuls ot sugar. Return to oven and brown delicatelv. FRA XCES MORGAX. Black Bean Soup. une pint -or MacK beans soaked over night In three quarts of water. In the morning pour off the water find add fresh three quarts. Boll slowly fou hours. When done there should be one auart. Add a quart, of bef stock, four whole cloves, four whole alspice, one staut ceiery, one good-sized onion, one small carrot, one small turnip, all cut fine and fried in a little butter. Add one tablespoonful flour, season with salt and pepper and rub through a une sieve, iserve with sliues of lemon and egg Doughnuts. ' Two eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, one - ..... - - r - . " ' .......wi 1 II. riou enoug-h to make a soft doucrb. Roll th dough about an inch thick. Cut Into gmall rings or strips. Twist them. Pry in hot lard to litrht brown. lrain and roil in powoeraa suirar. FRANCES MORGAN. The Child in Heaven. Annie Fitch, in Rarper't Bautar. Mir little child, so Ions away. Hast thou forgotten me 7 And does some mother soul In heaven ' Play kissinB tamei with, thee ? Then does It seem, the play inff done. The hour is com, for rest, And that as yellow as the moon Thy head lies on her breast. I bid you hold him, mother soul, Aa if he were your own; I bid thet softly, softly lie O child that 1 have known I THK hat is a most important part of my lady's toilet, and should receive careful and Intelligent attention. An otherwise smart toilet Us often rendered Ineffective by a lack of proper judgment in the selection of a hat to go with the ffown. One of the first considerations is witW regard to its suitableness to' the wearer. Do not wear the freak shapes that are seen every season. This time of the year is a cood season to buy fur hats, which may. witTi a few touches next season, "be worn as effect ively as during: the present. January al- ways witnesses a great reduction in hats in all of the large shops, and the wise woman takes advantage of the many stood things that may be picked up cheaply. The fitnart mink tomm slmwn In ih design has Its beauty enhanced by a trimming of Irish lace end aigrettes, and may be worn with a tailored gown. i no creation trimmed with rosea and ribbon Is made of light groen felt, and wi in pin k rosea a re used. The f ol i age ts a deeper green than the body of the hat, and the ribbon hanging from the back ot the model is aleo green, For a blond no selection could be more be- commg. Tie automobile hat shows a fur basis, with a rose on either side, and the npw. est Parisian fashion of adjusting" the veil so essential to a .smart motoring costume. A chio walking hat. and oriPi not taxing Amateur Performance That Cost Stage Star BY OOTLIN" S. COIJ.TN9. t 7 OU'RB cross and liaU-t ul and X never want to see you again," 1 declared Molly as she flung her- self away. I'm not cross and hateful. declared Beverly Gideon. "If you insist upon go ing on the stage you are at liberty to do so. But you cannot blame me for wanL lng my wife to be something more to me than a name on the billboards and in the dramatic papers." "You want a household drudge," sli6 proclaimed. That is all you want. I want to .let the fires of my genius burn bright ly, not to smolder, a sacrifice on the household altar." Gideon shrugged his Bhoulder. 'I sup pose you will not mind playing tonight,' he said. "It's part of the dramatic drudgery to make love to some one you hate, you know, It will be good prac tice." "I shall not let. your hatefulness spoil my chance," she said. "You know what It means to me tonight. I think you are trying to make me break down on pur pose. "Not at all," he said. "If you will trace this conversation back you will find that It wis yourself Who started It," "Then I shall be the first to stop," she declared, as she turned and left him. Beverly looked after her with a smile that was half -amused, half-wistful, Molly Waterbury was at once most de lightful and most irritating. She had been the leading: woman of the Carston Dramatic Club ever since she was old enough to wear long dresses. Gideon, who liked acting as an amusement, had played opposite to her for so long that it had seemed only natural that he should play the part of lover when there was no rehearsal and so they had become en- gaged. We had always regarded her chatter of .the time when they should go upon the stage together as the dreams of an am bitious girl, but this morning she had told him that Denslow. the manager, had promised we attend the performance and if he found her cap&bie he would give her a chance In one of his companies. Instead of rejoicing over her good for tune, .Gideon had objected to having her adopt a Btae career and words had fol lowed that had resulted in the return of the engagement ring and the ' formal breaking of the betrothal. The little stage of the Carston Lyceum bussed like a beehive that niht. Ils- tressed young women ran about declar ing: that they could never act with the great Denslow sitting out in front. The stage- manager hurriedly sent out to borrow ornaments for the stage, de termined that the celebrated producer should compliment his setting. Gideon sat .gloomily in one corner, while through the din passed Molly, calming the hysterical girls, conferring with the stage manager and utterly oblivious ol! Gideon's presence. Every little while she ran to the peep hole In tbe curtain, and when, at last, Denslow entered with her parents, the- entire company lined up to get a glimpse of the celebrated man. In the first two acts Molly played the part of a capricious young girl so fearful of being" wooed for her money that she scorned all suitors. Gideon gave her per fect support, suppressing himself in his endeavor to give her the attention of the audience, yet always giving the assistance she needed. 1 , n the third act, tired of her caprice, he Smart -ffato- for tbe Well Drwxed Woman the purs strinRS, is the wlng-trlmmed felt. This model may be followed In various combinations, blue or green felt and the different shades of velvet. The larpre picture hat with the Mira- beau feathers is eaeily followed. The hat itself is Velvet, and is not a diffi cult design to make. You can obtain tlie frames at the millinery stores, and learn to cover them. In this way you can secure at a cost of about $12 what would cost you $.13 or $45 at a millinery emporium, and the model need not he larking in the style and umartrirs of an importation if you are clever with your needle, ' , The taffota hat Is a smart and Quite Inexpensive one. Get your frame, and then sheer the taffeta on it, and the trimming may.be as simple or as elab orate fis you like. If you wish an all- black hat. the dark ellk roses and black aigrettes would be a flttina: finish to the chapeau. For young girls red taffetas and the brighter hues are quite becom ing. Tlie smartest and newest thing In hnl trlmmlng Is the Mlrabeau feather, but it has not the grace of the regulation on- trich plume. Fruits and flowers are very much used as trimming for - chapeaus. Grapes, ap ples and other fruits which the milliner brings on are very natural looking, and the foliage brought on this season is perfect in its imitation. A perfect model Is In dark brown felt, with uroldon brown velvet around the is about to leave the country and she, for the first time, realizes that she really loves him. and pleads with him to stay, while he. thinking that she is merely seeking to torment him, fights off his yearning to take her In his arms. If Molly s work in the earlier acts had beqn capital, now she surpassed herself. Somehow the lines seemed to fit into the real situation. The feeling- that Gideon's love-making in the earlier- scenes had been perfunctory made her aware of what she had given up, and she threw into her lines a passion and feeling that caused Denslow to turn to her father and say : '"I'll make a star of her." At last, with a final sweep of passion, she worked up to the climax and the cur- tain foil as she threw herself into Gid eon's arms. Twice the curtain rose, but instead of the. bowing stars it showed Filing Paper Patterns EVERT home dressmaker knows how p rovoki ng it is to search for the paper pattern that cannot be found. Bun die after bundle of tissue paper has to be opened and looked over. Tissue paper patterns have a way of all looking alike after they have been used. Too often the picture that came with the pattern sjets lost. Bome housekeepers mark their patterna by tying around each one a piece of the goods for which it -was last used. That plan works well enough so long; as the person who tied up the pattern Is the THE! ROOSEVELT BEARS ABROAD" Start next Sunday. They are funnier In the Old Country than they were in the United States. one who is searching for it- But a new seamstress will oe much puzzled by such a method of Identification. The best plan of all is to use large ma nila envelopes. Fasten these- together like the leaves of a book. Don't sew them with thread, however. Une a fine wire- the wire off an old broom handle an swers admirably. Allow the wire to be loose enough for the envelope to have room after the bulky pattern has been put Into it. The envelopes should have so much space on the wires that hold them together that, they can be easily slipped up and down. On each envelope write the name of tlje pattern and the date on which it was first used. It will be useful to add other Items of information about the pattern. If the sleeve is to be cut shorter, or the neck longer, a note to that effedt can be scribbled on the envelope. Write these notes in pencil, so that they can be erased when the envelope Is wanted for another pattern, Such a device as this for Keeping- patterns will save time and temper In the eewlner-room. The Queen of Portugal, besides encouraglnur her people to Improve , their dairies, lias for pveral years hern studying the solln in her kUiKdom with a view to grape culture. crown, and a pnradi.se bird perched ex actly in front, Felt bats are effectively trimmed with ribbons, feathers, flowers. Ready-to-wear hats are to be had in the shops at this time at little cost, and If you are so occupied that you cannot make a hat for yourwlf, it will Im a wise thing to purchase one of these. They come In grays, trimmed with wlngn in white, of the same shade, and also in brighter hues, In navy blue, red and the usual colors. With walking skirls, or tail ored suits, these bats prove quite useful. Feather hats are aa much the vogue . ever, the only drawback to .these bcinff that they are somewhat expensive. On the whole, however, they are a paying investment, for there is not hlns; which makes a woman quite so fagged a a heavy hat weighing down on her brain. And there Is no possible way to Rive much weight to a hat made of feathers. A toque In ppacoek blue feathers will wea r longer than several hats made of other stuff?. The theater and opera hats are extreme ly small, the latest f'arls news being that the tiny bonnet in vogue of yore Is being revived, and sometimes the principal thing visible is a nodding: aigrette or a bunch of flowers or fruit. One model is tnade of Persian and gold braid, with the tassels of the sold f m.1 Ung over t he eoi fTu re o n one side, and Jtuat above ts a small piquet of roses in pink. I Rhall he glad to help you with any suggestions as to your lints. HEtRN H ARM A N-BTIOWN. only a continuation of the picture. wttH Gideon "till holding her in his arms and whispering to her. Then the lights vent out and Denslow came hurrying: bark on the staRe. My dear Miss Waterbury." he erierf. ' ' I am rl 1 1 k (l 1 ! with your perTorjnanc& We shall have you a star in a few years." "I don't think T want to - go on t-he, stage." she said, looking up from Gideon's shoulder. "But to hide such talent under a bushel! It Is an artistic crime, t never saw bet ter acting than in that last scene." "That's Just It." said Molly, frankly. "You see it wasn't acting at ail," Denslow caught the glint In Gideon's eyes. 'f see.' he agreed, though he com prehended only dimly. "'Let me congrat ulate M r. Gideon upon his acting and liis success." Xo Soften Flannels ANT mothers find it Impossible to keep baby flannels soft and whit in the home washing, while having well. grounded objections to sending them to a laundry. If the flannels are plunged Into boiling hot guds, made with some good white soap, and worked about with a smooth stick or a paddle, much of the dirt will come out at once. Let them lie in the suds until it is cool enough to put the hands in: then rub the flannels between the hands not on the board until the soilure is practically rubbed out. Then pour off the water and plunge the flannels into clean hot suds, as before. Next rinse them through several clear waters, each cooler than the last, and finally through a tub of pale bluing water. 1011 and shake them into shape, and hansj them to dry without wringing In a breezy, shady place. Remember in washing flannels thege three Important points: They must not he put into " ol 1 water, soap must not he rubbed on them, and they must not be wrung. If treated in the manner indicated they will retain their whiteness and softness to the last, and there will be none of the shrinking and hardening that are at once o dreaded and so common. Cry or m. Ntrrnuous ttii-tt. Mew York. World. ' Oh, why was I given a single head And a single pair of hand?. And only a slnftle pair of lc-tee. Xo meet t 1 1 my work's dcmandiT Oh, why was I given a single life. Such a brief little span to he The thinps that I must? Why wasn't 1 prtsd All over eternity? Oh, why was I given a single framf For the trTiuous part within. When the infinite multiple wasn't .nolle To mora than half besclii? Oh, why was I given s single land To govern with frenzied skill, Oh. why wan I given a single end To close this existence ot mine, So full of the infinite nMds n( deeds. When the oCtlce cat oaa nLue Z ... , i ,