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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 9, 1906)
TIIE SUNDAY. OREGONIAX, "PORTLAND," DECE3IBER 9, 1!K)6.- CORRESPOND r -. y I . 1 ; : ..- ." . ' ' ' . ' 1 i i ; 1 The Art of Personal Charm PERSONAL LETTERS TO ALL INQUIRIES The Correspondence School of Style and Beauty published on this page Is aimed to meet the needs of the woman who must do for herself and cannot afford the services of a world-famed beauty doctor or a high priced modiste.. In every city there are hundreds of women who know good effects ii." dress, hair dressing and personal appearance when they see them but they do not know how to secure these all-desired results. The Correspondence School of Style and Beauty is calculated- to help just such readers. It will present a series of lessons by experts, but it does not ask its readers to wait for these lepsons in their turn. If your case Is urgent, whether it is physical or sartorial, write to the head of the department in which your question would fall, care of The Sunday Oregontan. " . Be sure to Inclose a self-addressed and stamped envelope for reply. Letters not accompanied Dy stamped and addressed envelopes will be an swered In these columns as far as possible in the order of their receipt, but stamped and addressed envelopes will assure . the writers a prompt, personal reply by mail. - v Good Form: Formal Dinner BY PRUDENCE STANDIS1I. WHEN you have an Invitation for a dinner: Send acceptances or regrets Im mediately. If you accept the invitation and emer gency forces you to disappoint your hostess, notify her at once. If the invitation is written formally in the third person, use the third person in reply. If written in the first person, wrie a personal, informal answer. Telephone invitations are permissible, and you can give your answer by tele phone instead of by mail or messenger. Never say. "I hope to come." Always "Yes" or "No." Wear For a formal dinner, decollete bodice, elbow sleeves, long gloves, plain skirt, hair dressed elaborately. ' For Informal dinners, light summery frock, with neck cut slightly low, elbow sleeves and no gloves. For dinners at restaurants and other public places dark or black gown simi lar to that worn to theaters, with a transparent yoke, gloves and the new theater hat, which is merely a coiffure finish in feathers, osprey aigrettes, spnngled flowers or velvet ribbon. Scarfs over the shoulder .arc introduced this year for dinner wear in exquisite laces and gauzes. Arrive . Never earlier than 15 minutes before the hour named in the Invitation. Ring the "bell, and on being admitted pass at once on to the dressing-room, where you remove wraps. Remove your gloves for an Informal dinner, retaining them for a formal dinner. Your hostess . "Will either leave in the dressing-room The Framing of the Features BY KATHERINE MORTON. THE hair Is the frame which either reduces or enhances the charm of the face., it should, therefore, be dressed with but one object in view, and that Is to soften ;all ..lines. iirrrttMn-ftnii.'ft i i tiki Low Knglisli Style for Girlish Face. strengthen good features and shadow poor ones- ' ' Styles in hair dressing this year are so varied that any face can be prop erly framed and a woman still be in style. For dressy occasions, the opera, even Ins receptions, balls and various sorts of public appearances, he. elaborate coiffure, almost suggesting the period of fancy ball makeup, is In vogue. This must be done only by an expert hair dresser. The new coiffure orna ments of feathers, sequin-decked wings and ospreys. ribbon, etc., require per fectly groomed heads. On the other hand, for ordinary oc casions at home or on the street, the simpler modes of hair dressing are In vague again. The woman of quiet tastes now eschews the Marcel wave entirely or has it done very lightly. The loose, round wave, which any woman can accomplish by one of the various over-night curling devices, is much smarter. When the lines of the face are se vere and time has left a- few tell-tale marks, employ the softest lines ob tainable in dressing the hair all the way rotlnd. For this face the plain", loose wave is far more becoming than the even, almost mechanical Marcel. VItbIu1 toiffur, With Coronrt Braid, for Thin Face. - 3 - a small card bearing the name of the man who will take you out to dinner or she will meet you In the drawing-room and there Introduce the man to you. Do not offer to take your partner's arm. In the dining-room At an informal dinner : the . hostess seats her guests with . simple words or gestures. At a formal dinner, plate cards are used, and your partner will find your respective places. At the table. - Remain standing behind the chair un til the hostess seats herself. . Step aside while your partner draws out your chair. - After you are seated a maid or butler wilj tuck in your skirts so- that they will not be stepped on or be stained by care less serving. After the dessert The hostess will give the signal to re tire to the drawing-room, where coffee is now served to both men and- women. Some form of entertainment is uni versal ly provided to follow the dinner. If not. you are expected to remain at least an hour In the drawing-room. Leaving Bid your hostess good-by before leaving the drawing-room, and after donning your wraps, pass out directly. If you are a single woman, have .a carriage or a ser vant call to escort you home. n the next article we will consider the details of table etiquette, which will com plete the ordeal ofa first formal dinner. In the meantime, any questions which you may wish to ask me regarding any phase of etiquette, will, be answered by mall If you-' ven4 a self-addressed , and stamped envelope to. me, liu-caro of this newspaper. ' ' ' ',- t - : . - ' The thin-faced woman who has passed 2fr should never wear her hair low ,on her neck, but wave it loosely all the way. around the head in .a pompadour which can ; best be de scribed as a soft; drooping aureole. It should : then be dressed back " of the crown in soft coils, braids or puffs, but It never should be piled high upon the head. The low coronet braid-Is mos! becoming to this type of woman, and can be bought to, match every shade of hair. The young-' girl with plump, not heavy face, gets best results by dress ing the hair In the front in a soft pompadour and then arranging it in a coil or English bun at the nape of ,the neck. " The thin, girlish face is best framed In softly- waved hair, parted In the middle, fluffed' over and .behind the ears and then arranged in the back in the new. Virginia coiffure, a combina tion of curls and puffs which can be evolved from natural hair if its wearer Is blest with sufficient quantity.'or can be purchased ready made up in most 5 . " u J Medium Mnrrel M'ave, With Ixw Cor- ' oiif t Braid, for Narrow face. . convenient form to match all tints' of hair. jPuffS"'and the coronet braid are the hairdresslng fad of the hour. Very few curls are seen, and those only on most elaborately dressed heads. Any woman In doubt as to the "most becoming way of dressing her hair can gel personal and distinctive directions by sending me, in care of this news paper, a self-addressed and stamped envelope and a description of herself, complexion, shape of features and color of hair. KATHERINE MORTON. What Is Love? love's a tear. Or but a sigh; Love's a welcome;." Love's '"Good-by. Love's a laugh. Or gentle smile; Love's a ruffe; Yet soothes e'erwhile. Love's a storm, Or Love'H ft calm; Love's a burden; Love's a balm. Love's- a blessing. Perchance a curse; Something better. Or something worse. If Love's a rising-. Sometimes a. fall; Love Is nothing. And jet 'tis all. : Donald A. Fraier. - ; jvt ' "; - ' . ' . I ir0?r - nc fy Jwm25$l 1 1 I A t Sv4.T i i k m lift ss&'J Ah l-u$kx V ' STYLE VS. TRIMMING, though Intended to beau tify a gown, ' frequently ruins It completely. This is because it is not selected judiciously of. is applied in correctly. Trimming must not furnish a glaring contrast, but must either harmonize with or bring out the rich beauties of the fab ric to which it is applied.. It must also be applied to the gown in such a way and along such lines as to bring out the best lines of the figure and minimize triN ling defects. Only the tall, slender woman can em ploy tramming that runs aroufid the skirt. Only the . very long-waistcd woman should apply it on horizontal lines around the waist. The heavy-set woman, no matter how tall, must apply It on up" and . down or vertical lines on both skirt and bodice, to heighten the effect or slenderness. The heavy woman must use flat trim mings, which if not severe, must at least be unobtrusive. The thin woman can employ fluffy trimmings, ruchings, ruffles, , rosettes, bows, etc. '. . . Trimming- Iiules for 1906-7. For street suits: " ''""". Bias folds, plain or piped with same or heavier fabric. Velvet appliques outlined by fine sou tache braid. Braid in two or more widths, curved into odd forms for application by means of a drawstring on one edge. Embroidered bands in which gold ap pears In subdued form. Vests, revers and cuffs, heavily 'em broidered or braided. , For coat, suits, frogs, passementerie, or naments, connected by cords and finished with ball pendants. In either crochet or passementerie-covered .molds. . . y . Soutache braid in wide sizes, radium, a figured braid . and diamond braid .are used alone, or with fancy edges applied. For House and Reception Gowns. Embroidery leads all trimmings for in door wear, and can be done by hand at home or bought In pieces suitable for bands, vests, yokes, panels, revers, cuffs, etc. Designs Large floral or conventional patterns, festoons. Empire wreaths and Louis XVI ribbon embroidery. These must "be embroidered or selected in col ors, which harmonize perfectly or melt into the tone of the fabric, or they will detract from the height and foreshorten all lines. Embroidered bands running up and down, edged on either side by narrow knife pleating of harmonious silks, . with pinked out i edges. Admirable on even ing or dressy cloaks. Gobelin and Dresden colorings prevail TASTE IN in embroideries for house gowns, unless self-tone' embroidery, which is most be coming to the average woman, is used. Applique flowers in machine embroid ery, tinted to tone into all the popular shades of silk, velvet or crepe de chine, as well as self-tone embroidery on crepe de chine, can be bought by ' the woman who does not use the embroidery needle. -Yucatan ' embroidery, resembling tapes try, in bands, scallops and medallion pat terns. Is new, and come to match in color all the new silks and cloths. For combination with brown: Golden brown bands of embroidery with tiny pom padour designs- in floral colorings. For gray:- Bands of smoke velvet with a touch of .coral, mauve or rose pink. v For while cloth, silk or' crepe de chine: Gold embroidery. . If black and white con trast is desired, bandings in which black beads appear with the black . and white embroidery. , . . ; Velvet ri-bbon In self-tone or contrast, particularly in deeper shade than gown. I'or Evening Gowns. Embroidery in yokes, .bands and godet or shaped ruffles. For combination with white net dresses: Gold embroidery In thread spangles and paillettes on white net. r On black net dresses: Jet paillettes on embroidered net. ' On delicately tinted mousselines. ehlf fons and similar fabrics: Harmonious hand or machine embroidery In delicate tones, such as palest corn color, laven der and green with . green chiffon cloth; palest blue and pink and corn color or cream color1 or pale blue cloth. . AYlio Shall Wear Wliat. ' Tall women Triple skirts edged with folds or scallODS. Oversklrt effect with godet points, par ticularly on house-or evening ' gow'ns. Round reveres on bodices, deep yokes of lingerie work or lace. Smartest finish for waist, square cape like arrangement of embroidered cloth which reaches" from throat" to point just below the bust, and Is worn by Jewish rabbis, known as the breastplate. Very effective in self-tone or gold embroidery. Fastened on the side. To secure long lines in the back, start at shoulders with medium embroid ered bands, which narrow and almost meet at waist line, then spread out and form Inverted "V" to hem of skirt. Large appliques in conventional or flower patterns on" gores of skirt., or fold of ' velvet headed by Grecian border in matching . velvet ribbon, to depth of 18 inches, 1f very tall. , Short women No trimming higher than four Inches above foot of skirt running around skirt, and that In self tone. Long lines secured by running . piping, narrow braid or velvet ribbon down seams. The smaller the woman, the more nar row the "braid or ribbon used. Short, "chunky" women Pointed vest TRIMMING effects, revers that start from shoulder and almost meet in a "V" at the waist line in front, and pointed, not round, lines in application of all braids, bands, etc. If you are puzzled as to trimmings for your new gown or coat, send me a self addressed and stamped envelope, a sam ple of your goods, and some facts regard ing the use to which you will put the gown, your height, weight and general ap pearance. You need not wait for an an swer in the paper. I will give yo in structions by mall. HELEN HARMAN BROWN. Theater Bags for Gifts. The smart little matinee bags this! have Just come over from Paris are the acme of convenience for the theater-going wom an. Made of suede or soft leather, they are divided into compact compartments; Into which are fitted a pair of screw op era glasses, a tiny fan, a watch and a "vanity case" with mirror and powder puff. Then there is a little pocket for carfare, another for theater tickets, and a more commodious one for the moucholr. Some of these little bags are made of plain seal or Russia leather, without oth er ornamentation than the owner's mono gram in gold or silver. These are mostly of square shape, folding over In wallet fashion and having a strap handle. The favorite colors are gray, gunmetal, wood brown and forest green, while the fit tings are variously mounted In gold, sil ver, gunmetal and mother-of-pea,rl. Some very striking bags are made of rattle snake skin with gunmetal trimmings. ' For use with elaborate costumes there are theater bags of gray suede embroid ered in silver or cut steel, and others of fawn-colored suede with heavy embroid eries of gold bullion. The heart-shaped bags are especially fancied. One of the handsomest or these is made or white moire embroidered In gold, with gold mountings and dainty linings of flowered Dresden silk. Some very beautiful beaded bags are also shown, indicating that the fad for bead work has not yet died out. The designs wrought In this work are artistic in the .extreme, Many lovely opera bags are made of handsome flowered silk, having a white background, and are lined with heavy white or rose-colored satin. These are much larger than the ordinary theater bag. and are made in the quaint reticule style familiar to our great-grandmothers, being drawn up around the opening with white silk cord or a satin ribbon. The several pockete that are sewn to the lin ing are designed for the accommodation of the various- odds and ends that every modern woman finds indispensable to an evening's comfort. The combination fan and opera glass makes a pretty gift for the forgetful mat inee girl who has a way of losing her be longings. The tiny fan case is attached to the glasses, and the whole affair can be suspended by a chain from the neck or wrist. Some of these little trinkets are exquisite examples of the jeweler's art. BY KATHERINE MORTON. HITE Spots on the Nails Caused by bruises or stoppage of juices which nourish the nails. . . Remedy If bruised. Immediately hold in water as hot as can be borne for at least half an hour, adding boil ing water at regular intervals. If caused by lack of nourishment to the nail, apply at night a thick paste made from refined pitch or turpentine and myrrh mixed in equal quantities, and cover with -glove fingers securely fas tened on. In the morning remove with olive or sweet oiL Excessive Perspiration In Palms of Hands Bathe the hands with warm water to which has been aded spirits of camphor or aromatic vinegar. If perspiration is very troublesome, pow der with the following absorbent: Oxide of zinc, 2 drachms. Boracic acid, 2 drahms. Lycopodium powder, 4 drachms: Starch, 1 ounce. Powdered oris root. 'z ounce. Sachet according to taste for scent. Red Hands Are often due to nerv ousness, which causes the blood to rush into them. A temporary relief from this Is an exercise for sending the blood back in the arms. Raise the hands high over the head and shake them lightly, or, as the pupils of Del- sarte say, devitalize them. Avoid sit ting or walking' with the hands hang ing loosely at the sides. Note pictures of beautiful women and you will see that they always pose with the hand uplifted to the face, hair, chin or clasped lightly In front of the chest. This is more than a pose. It sends the blood downward and . insures a white haJid. Actresses always do this devitalizing exercise the last thing be fore going on the stage. A reliable bleach to be worn under gloves at night is: Two ounces of yel Suiting Furs and Faces RT HBI.EX HABMAN-HHOWX. NEVER buy furs by artificial light or without trying them on before a full-length mirror. Many fur color ings are trying to the complexion. Few women can carry off well the heavy lines of fur coats or fur neck-pieces. For d.ress wear the new combination pieces, fur with other fabrics of lighter weight, are more becoming than plain fur pieces, but less durable and econom ical. In selecting furs, consider both your height and your complexion. Only the perfect blonde or brunette with clear complexion. looks well in chinchilla or moles-kin. Lynx and fox are perhaps the least trying of the inexpensive furs; sealskin is almos-t universally becoming, and ermine should "be worn only with dressy afternoon or evening costumes. Only the woman with the long, slender throat can wear the high neck pieces or deep stole. The woman with the short, thick neck and -double chin must select a pelerine or cape without high collar, the flatter around the-throat the better, and it should, have the drooping, 1S30 shoulder lines. In choosing a pelerine or cape be sure that It givea pointed and not square lines. Some, of the new pelerines are cut shawl fashion, apparently gathered in a buckle or clasp at the waisrtinc. Others are shaped from narrow bSnds of fur in dif ferent lengths, which give a sharp, scal loped or pointed effect' ibelow the waist line. The vers' short girl with girlish contour of face can wear an enormous pelerine and carry a huge muff, because this gives a picturesque touch to her cos tume. , The very "tall woman can wear a broad, high-collared pelerine because it gives her dignity and yet a statuesque look. The woman of medium stature must wear a conservative fur piece, neither too broad nor too long. The new boas are flat rather than round, and all the muffs are pillow-shaped, trimmed heavily with tails rather than heads. A-'word of" warning regarding making over furs: It Is an expensive process, the privilege of the rich rather than the moderately-pursed woman. Do not imagine that because you have some good piece of fur, some rich pieces of lace or em broidery bands, you can have a fancy stole or cape evolved at great saving of expense over a new fur piece. In the 1 t ' : .: v.,-."-: "314 fit 1 T Stole, for T,obk, Slim Neck. J ""I x V. low wax melted In a Jouble boiler, and one ounce of powdered myrrh added while 'the wax is hot. Stir in four ounces of pure honey, six ounces of rose water, and just enough glycerine to make a paste that will spread eas ily. Spread this thickly on the hands at night and wear loose gloves over it. Freckles Bichloride of mercury, in coarse powder, 8 grains; witch hazel, t ounces: rose water. 2 ounces. Agitate until a solution is obtained. Mop over the affected parts.- This is -poisonous. Keep out of the way of ignorant persons and children. In using on discolored hands, keep away from nails, as it will "darken them; also remove all jewelry. This is a very powerful remedy for discol- ) ored hands. Big Knuckles Soak in warm olivo oil and massage, always drawing the hand with which you massage out toward the finger tips, as if bringing the massaging fingers together in an invisible point. Warts Mix one ounce of soap cere ate, one drachm of powdered savin and one drachm of powdered verdigris to a pomade. Spread on tho wart before retiring and fasten on with a bit of old kid glove. Two treatments should remove a wart of ordinary size. In case of a large, stubborn growth, con sult -'an "electrical expert and have it removed with the electric needle. In these articles I have tried to meet every hand problem which may con front a woman. If I have failed to touch upon your particular trouble, please write me particulars. In 'care of thia newspaper, inclosing' stamped and addressed envelope, and 1 will send at once such practical advice or formulas as you may need. I ' KATHERINE MORTON. long run the price will bo about the same. Round boas in coque or ostrich feathers have given place to fla.t stolen or pele rines of coque mixed with marabout, or marabout and ostrich. Those come in shades to harmonize with almost all" the 1 k 5 -1 ' i '' s r it - 4 -. & 7 . . . r "W - . -. . y f- T " " Flat TrleriM, for Short, at Neck. new Winter colorings.' Harmonious rather than contrasting fur or feather pieces are preferred over those in con trasting colors. If you desire personal advice about se lecting furp or having them made over, pray feel free to consult me. In writing, send self-addressed and stamped envel ope and state the color of your street gown with which furs will be worn, also facts regarding your height, weight, col oring, feature.-, etc. A Housekeeper's Schedule. By Frances Morgan. . Paste this on your kitchen wall. 1. On leaving your bed open the bed anil windows. 2. Start kitchen fire. Put on the cereal. 3. Place on kitchen table the things you will use in getting breakfast. 4. Pull up the shades everywhere and open windows. 5. Set the breakfast table. 6. Dust sitting-rooms If there Is time. 7. Serve breakfast; fruit, cereal, eggs. S. Gather up dishes and put food away In refrigerator Immediately, leaving dish es to be washed later. 9. Make up all the beds and dust the rooms. 10. Wash the breakfast dishes. 11. Do any special cleaning. 12. Get the luncheon. In any well regulated household there will be no afternoon cleaning up. Stuffed Egg Plant. Put one egg plant in hot fat. and cook about five minutes, and then remove the outer skin. When cold cut off the top. Scoop cut a third of the Inside and chop thla fine. Cook a half tablespoonful of butter with half a chopped onion for two or three minutes, then add half a table spoonful of chopped green pepper. Add to this two slices of white bread and cook five minutes. Add half a teaspoonrul salt, a pinch of .paprika, one yolk of egg. Rub the inside of the egg plant with lemon Juice and fill with the mixture. Cover the outside with beateij egg. Bake about 20 minutes. German fashion of Roasting Duck. Pick and elean and since a duck. Rub well with salt. Make a dressing of bread crumbs, apple sauce and Suitana raisins. Be careful to use enough bread crumbs to thicken the apple sauce thoroughly. Then raisins in quantity according to taste. Fill the duck, after mixing the dressing thoroughly. Roast in the oven to a good brown color. Baste often. Make a sauce of chopped livers, pour over the duck and serve "hot.