THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 1, 1906.
43
I : 9 . : :1 ; . j
WR1XC STYLES TOR YOONG GIRLS.
DAINTY INDOOR EFFECTS.
THE Spring style? presented for young
girls' wear show' In the most note
worthy Instances a Parisian .prettl-.
ness. The coat gown, well made and of
Rood material, shows 'as much Vf thlsr
charm as the more drossy frock. For In
llnite smartness a Jacket of short length
exactly matches the skirt.
Most charming and practical are some
ready-to-wear models of panama, plain
cloth and fancy suiting. A short, double
breasted Eton, with strapped bands of
Ihe material, fancy buttons and a touch
t)f contracting color on the collar, com
poses the upper garment of these. The
ileeves are wrist or three-quarter length.
"When In the latter cut they are often
wldo and shirred Into smart turn-back
cults, or else finished by a plain band
decked with braid or edged with silk j
ruches. j
The prevailing skirts for young misses j
show the all-popular and becoming bias .
cram at the front. The sides art-circular,
with the oddity sometimes of a straight
back breadth, very narrow and laid In
stiff pleats. But the most satisfactory of
these skirts arc without pleats cither back j
or front, and if a girl is plump enough ,
to wear the simple circular cut the effect !
Is wonderfully stylish.
In the way of material that Is. for
practical use panama cloth, which may
have either a brllllantinc or serge finish,
stands virtually first. The new weaves
In this admirably wearing material reach
a point of fineness which earn for them
the prefix of. chiffon., .though even the
niONt delicate pan a mas have some of tilts
wlrinesa which Is the virtue of the ma
terial. Some litle coat frocks for maids In their
teens showed charming arrangements with
black panama and color. The color was
expressed In the slightest touches on the
collar, cuffs and girdle of the dress. How
ever, in many Instances, the girdle Is a
shaped zone of the frock's material,
though when of soft silk, satin or velvet
It achieves a far dressier effect, for as
often as not the frocks Is the best out
door one in a schoolgirl' wardrobe. But
the cloth zone is easily changed for the
smarter belt, and with a lingerie shirt
waist of special daintiness and a fresh
hat In suitable style, such a get-up may
be worn for almost any day occasion.
Side by side with these neat and smart
suits are the bodice dres.se, in charming
Spring colors and designs. These have
a specially French quality, and It must
be admitted that in many cases they are
expensive, for to be entirely approved of
such costumes must show the most fault
less make. The very restraint which Is
required for young girl's wear which the
French so quaintly oall discretion calls
for extra price with these gowns. There
must be trimming, but not tx much of
It, and wherever handwork can be ticed
It Is ' carried to such painstaking petal
that the wonder comes that the dross Is
u cheap as it is.
Blurred plaid In soft wools almost as
delicate as veilings an much to the fore
These arc made up frequently without
other trimming than a girdle In solid
color and perhaps rever and cuffs of It
A charming little gown of this nature
showed a skirt In three detp kilted
flounces and a blouse bodice cat to expose
a smart white silk shirtwaist. The colors
of the plaid were soft pale browns on a
paler brown background, a dim and yet
beautiful shade of green taffetas compos
ing the girdle and bodice trimming.
This gown is shown in the larger of
today's drawings, and the hat which in
given with it is charmingly suitable. The
shape is pale brown straw with wide
undulated brim and trimmings of white
flowers and green velvet ribbon. The en
tire get-up is suitable for any day occa
sion. Another mart dress in this picture
shows one of the new season's most
charming fads, which is saying a great
deal, for it is evidently to be a Simmrr
of many favorites. This is the yoke frock
from which Is displayed with the large
feathered hat. the two composing a high
dress get-up of uncommon distinction. The
gown is of pineapple tissue not th pine
apple tissue of the Philippines, but of
I France it Is in a dim soft pink, with
trimmings of cream French lace In a
youthful pattern. The sash and sleeve
bows arts of taffetas in a deeper, rose,
j and the feather and soft silk of the hat.
wnira is a wiae jegnorn snap, matcnes
tho color or the frock.
Apropos of this falnl and Under pink,
called faded rose which title, by the way.
does not in the least describe it It will
doubtless have a specially elegant vogue.
The materials seen in It are all expen
sive, and the completed gowns display
the finest touches the sartorial hand can
give, the rarest and most adorable motifs.
One very dapper street frock so called"
in this tint was of cloth with a severely
tailored circular skirt, and jaunty pony
Jacket.
Other cloth gowns show the dim pink,
deepening and deepening till the last
frock may bo almost red. There is no
doubt about it. color Is once more to
have a vogue of elegance, and even It a
frock is ostensibly all white there is
bound to be & tinted line somewhere on
the bodice. A white coat of Irish lace,
shown with a linen skirt magnificently
inset with the same, displayed a bias
band of deep buff linen around the neck
and down the front.
One of the Utile Eton frocks already
described, and a Spring raglan are tho
two remaining models in this picture.
The coat is In checked sage covert In the
douole-breasted and loosely simple shape
advised for practical wear. The big but
tons are of bone In the sage tint of the
deeper line of the plaid. The hat with its
fancy feathers makes a dashing finish.
The majority of the coats shown for
younjr girls wear have no special dis
tinction, but occasionally, as here, a long
model will seem very smart. The lack
of prestige the shorter separate Jacket
enjoy. Is doubtless owing to the fact that
the gown with Its own wrap has almost
ousted this old-time favorite. So. except
In the case of these very swagger three
quarter coats and longer ones for rain
use. the odd coat Is for the moment set
aside by ultra-fashionables. That Is
where young girls are concerned, or odd
taffeta coats, exquisitely fussy, are to
be one of the reigning features in the
grown-up world.
In the second picture are given three
very dainty frocks for smart Indoor use.
These express models of a high priced
and choice nature, but so simple are the
designs that any one of the toilettes
could be turned out In quite a modest
material.
Taking first the frock showing a skirt
and crossed bodice elaborately trimmed
with lace, the materials here employed
aro India muslin and Valenciennes In a
rare pattern. The underslip Is also pale
rose silk and all the work upon the
frocks seams excepted 1 done by hand.
However, this frock could be adorably
copied for $15 by substituting ordinary
mull or organdy and point d'esprlt or
plain footing for the lace. These airy
net garnitures are far superior to cheap
laces, and despite their comparative ln
expenalveness. th-y give a look of charm
ing distinction. Lastly pale blue, pink or
apple green lawn could be used, for the
underslip.
The second frock In the foreground Is
built entirely of pale gray Ioulsine. but
a very simple delaine with soft silk for
the fichu collar could be substituted. In
this case (he whole dress the wide soft
belt with sash ends not excepted should
be in one color.
Gray Is very much exploited for young
girl's wear, and the bodice of many of
the street gowna show charming white
guimpes and deckings of narrow Valen
ciennes also pure white,-the latter out
lining an entire stiff little coat some
times. The third dress In the smaller picture
is of pale blue veiling with white lace
and blue chiffon trimmings. The square
Dutch cut of the neck of this is the
decolletage approved for maiden wear.
To take the gown subject In its entire
ty, delicacy of coloring, fineness of mate
rial and faltlessnes of make, are the pre
vailing features in the '0 modes for
young- girls. Fancy veilings are also ad
vised rather than plain by many dress
makers who claim that the latter mate
rial like cloth. Is too old for the blithe
ages which He between 14 and IS. Still
there are many. cloth dresses for younjc
girls. The entire color of one wonderful
chiffon cloth dress with the exception
of the chemisette and girdle was a deep
rich cream. White tucked net and lace
composed the chemisette and flame-colored
satin the high girdle. But. of
course, such a dress would need splendid
surroundings and could only be worn
for the grandest functions. A wide cream
straw hat with flame-colored feathers
had been sent over with the wonderful
French frock, which was for a. girl of 12.
Hats are all decidedly more lovely in
tho maiden world than they were a "sea
son or two ago. Color and posy decking!?
everywhere riot, and the plainer shapes
for tailored costumes are so carefully
made that they lose nothing through the
extra touch of soberness. Most of the
hats on the plain tailored order are now
made by hand, the cheaper ready-to-wear
thing once so much exploited, having
proved its worthlessnes. And the choic
est ornaments of all axe certain wide
quills, enormously long- and exquisitely
colored. Two In a girl's gray hat.
trimmed with a smoky blue velvet,
showed these colors blended In a way
to seem like poetry. It was as it a
great, strange and yet blessedly quiet
bird, had suddenly lighted in the shop
window. MARY DBAX.
On the Making of an Ordinary Cook
Cakes Without Butter, by Director Portland School of Domestic Science.
THJ3RB seems to be a very general
superstition that "Angel Food" Is
one of the hardest cakes to make
successfully. Perhaps tho name has some
thing to do with this, as well as the ex
treme precautions with which some cooks
and cookbooks bewilder the novice. A
lady once informed me that she always
used a now cakepan for angel food,
sifted the flour 13 times and allowed no
one to walk across the kitchen floor while
the cake was In the ovon, and still the
calco was flat and tough!
The fact of the matter is that tho mix
ing of such a cake is extremely simple,
and tho baking of It Is not difficult, if
'you realize what kind of material you
arc dealing with and consider the effect
of high temperature on egg-whites. Soa
to it that the heat of your oven Is
steady and not excessive, and don't try
to hurry matters. 'Hurry Is one of the
besetting sins of the "ordinary cook";
she too often tries to tnako it take the
mace ot lorPinuuKiu mri"" v
li I.. onmnllalieil OOOk" is CI-
podltlous. but rarely hurried. She has
formed the. habit of consciously or un
consciously timing all her operations, so
that sho has n fair idea of what can or
cannot be done in a given number ot
minutes. She can usually get through
more work In a given time than her less
t xncrienred winter, but she docs not at
tempt to hustle tho baking of her bread
and cakes or the simmering of her stow.
Supposing then that you have good sense
and a good oven us well as plenty of
t me and egg whites, there is no reason
why you should not make good angel
food at your very first attempt. Rwipos
for this cake call for from S to 12 egg
whites to one cup of flour. The best
way. since eggs differ In size, is to take
them by measure rather than by count.
The following is a useful formula:
1 cup egg whites (unbeaten).
1 cup (level) tine granulated sugar.
1 cup (level) flour (measured after twice
sifting). '
H teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon (level) cream of tartar.
1 teaspoon flavoring almond and vanilla,
(mixed) rose, or orange flower water.
You add the salt to the egg whites, and
beat there until perfectly stiff (see that
iliey will cut with a knife), then fold in
the sugar (sifted) and add the flavoring,
finally .fold in the flour after sifting it
two or throe times with the cream of
tartar. This sifting is to secure thorough
mixing of the cream of tartar, and also
to get some air entangled with the flour.
Mix it very lightly, just enough to hide
the flour, keeping it as bulky as possible.
Turn the mixture into a tube-pan with a
sheet of white ungrcased paper at the
bottom. You see the mixing part is very
quick and simple. For the baking you
need a moderate oven and steady boat,
uch an oven as you would use for baking
loaves (not rolls) of bread. A tcaspoonful
of flour on a piece of paper placed where
the cake is to be, in the middle of the
oven, should begin to change color round
the edges in Ave or C4 minutes. It Is a
good thing to cover the pan. without of
course touching the cake, with a baking
sheet or tin or piece of stiff paper to
prevent its browning too soon. Remove
this cover in half an hour, when the cake
should be fully risen, and bake half an
hour longer. Toughness is caused chiefly
by too high temperature, but if you use
too cool an oven the cake will be raw in
the center. Steady, moderate beat is
what Is wanted. I have had good suc
cess in an oven that refused to stay
"moderate" by using an earthen pan for
baking and sotting a cup of water in the
oven. A double boiler has also dono sat
isfactory duty as an angel food pan. The
cake was allowed to rise in the water
jacket with the lid on and finished off
with the inside pan only, and no lid.
"Where time for baking is short good re
sults can be got with individual cakes
baked in iron gom pans. These must be
heated before the mixture Is put in. Test
your cako with a thin bright skewer or
knitting needle before removing from the
oven, and be sure it does not get too deep
ly colored. Turn tho pan upside down
when it comes from the oven, so that the
cake will hang in the pan with circulation
of air underneath. It can be removed
when cool by slipping a thln-bladcd knife
between the cake and the sides of the
pan. In frosting such a cake it lc some
times well, on account of its rather rough
surface, to give a thin coating first, and
a second when that is dry. The frosting
is not necesary. but helps, to keep It
moist. It should be broken apart with
two forks rather than cut.
The formula given above is not sweet
enough for some tastes; as much as one
and one-half cups of very fine sugar
bclng sometimes used. Coarse sugar will
give a coarse-grained cake. One-third of
a cup of cornstarch and two-thirds of
flour may be liked better than all flour.
Some people, too, prefer to sift the flour
and sugar together and fold them In at
the same time. The best way is to try
for yourself and suit your own taste and
convenience.
You can make a "Sunshine Cake" by
folding In the well-bcaten yolks ot six
eggs (sometimes beaten with the sugar!
before adding the flour. Sunshine Cake
Is really a rich variety of sponge cake.
There are. however, various poor rela
tions of sponge cake called by the same
name, but making up in baking powder
what they lack in eggs. Sponge cake
proper has no baking powder, and If well
made is perhaps the most easily digested
cake for children and invalids. Here again
long beating and slow baking are Ue Im
portant points. A friend of mine "stlred
up" a sponge cake In a hurry one day.
It was to be served at dessert, but was
not altogether what her fancy had paint
ed It. Tiie adult members of the family
however maintained a discreet silence un
til a small niece piped up, "Please, auntie,
may I have some more omelet T'
A good formula for sponge cake Is as
follows: Three eggs, the weight of all
these (in their shells) In very fin granu.
latcd sugar, and the weight or two only In
fine flour: 1-lSth teaspoon salt, rind and
Juice ot half a lemon. This formula by
weight Is more generally correct than
one by measure. Begin by preparing
your cake pan. Grease it thoroughly and
eift over the surface a thin film of flour,
or of flour and icing sugar mixed In equal
parts. Tie a band of un greased paper
round the outsldo of the tin. letting It
project at least two inches above the
tin. Then mix the cake. Separate the
yolks and whites; beat the former about
five minutes, add the sugar, and beat un
til light colored and almost stiff. Best
the whites until quite stiff- Fold In half
of these, then the sifted flour, then the
remainder of the whites. Stir as little as
possible in order not to flatten the mix
ture. Put at once into the prepared pans
and bake in a moderate (bread) ovta at
least 45 minutes. It is a good plan to
set the cake tin on a baking pan con
taining a thick layer of sand or salt,
previously heated. This prevents undue
browning of the bottom and secures
steady heat. The top may be protected
with paper as in baking- angel cake.
This same mixture will make good
sponge drop cakes or lady fingers.
Sponge cakes containing- baking pow
der are somewhat easier to bake -and
require a slightly hotter ovon. They
usually contain some water which Is
beaten in a spoonful at a time (with a
I... . ... .
I nine nour to maintain me consistency)
before the addition of the whites and the
bulk ot the flour. Lemon Juice and rind
jvare most generally used for flavoring, but
I tills can. of course, be raried to taste.
uon i torget tne p:ncn of salt with the
egg whites, even though your recipe docs
not mention St.
LILIAN E. TINGLE.
Choose Books as
1906 Easter Gifts
THAT most absorbing, of individuals,
the American shopkeeper, has
learned to cater cleverly to Americans
fad for gift making. Time was that
Easter was confined almost entirely to
children. The old-fashioned custom called
for the exchange of home-colored eggs or
the confectioner's wonders In crystal can
dy showing siereoptlcon pictures.
Then came Raphael Tuck and his
cards, and the florist saw hU chance with
egg-shaped baskets filled with costly
Spring blossoms. These were sent by
swain to sweetheart, by guest to hostess,
and sometimes by mere husbands to
wives. Last year cut Cowers gave place
to growing plants.
This year it Is books. Books Illustrat
ed, printed and bound especially for
Easter gifts, beautiful editions bearing
resurrection suggestions: Inexpensive
books in purple, white and silver glorifi
cation, and when all else falls, simply
bound books set in boxes or paper
wrappings and tied with ribbon bearing
Easter messages. And really, after all
Is said and done, the new fashion Is
the best of all, for books live like Easter
thoughts, long; after potted plants and
Easter messages are faded and forgotten.
In the books selected by publishers for
the Easter season, there Is little enough
suggestion of the resurrection senti
ment, unless you can call idealised love
the outgrowth of the Easter spirit. Of
cours. you will find many of the paper
round booklets combining Easter poems.
Illustrated with a wealth of floral de
sign and bound so delicately ax to be
utterly Impractical. These can be se
cured from 25 cents up and are Intesded
merely to take the place ot cards.
A word to the Easter shopper. In no
other store today will you be more wel
come than in the -book shop. Provided
you remove your gloves to display saowy
finger tips, you are at liberty te brewxe
by the hour asaong its Easter offerings.
But you may be swre that the gloved
hands are regarded with suspicion by the
book seller. Gloves, no matter haw little
worn on the street, always hold pa4bUl
tles for ruining dainty feiadlsgs-
Try Cooked Greens as a Change of Diet
EEP your family well during the
Spring months by substituting
green vegetables for the meat course as
often as possible," Is the advice of a fam
ily physician who advocates careful diet
rather than uncertain drugs as the surest
road to good health.
"Thei do not necessarily have to be in
the form of salads to be appetizing, either.
Have them prepared with some care and
thought and you couldn't wish for a more
delicious kind of food. Tho trouble is the
average cook never takes time to -thoroughly
clean and properly season green
vegetables, and they . are passed un
touched by half the persons at the table."
The last truth strikes home to more
than one housewife, who. though she may
have tried to convince her family ot the
curative properties of spinach and other
cooked green vegetables, still finds that
they prefer the regular diet of corn, beets,
etc to the succulent varieties served as
they usually are In haphazard fashion.
"She new school of cookery, however,
gives many helpful suggestions with re
gard to this class of vegetables, and here
are a few gleanings:
Of all the green vegetables, spinach
contains the largest amount of medicinal
qualities and can be offered in the great
est number of appetizing forms. The
delicacy of all spinach dishes, however,
depends first. last and always upon the
care with which the leaves are washed
and boiled. Four kinds ot spinach can be
obtained at this time of year the regular
crinkly leaf, thin curling leaves. Ilkn
parsley, known as greens, dande
lion tops. and. least expensive of all.
the long;, narrow leaves which are cut
from beets.
Any of these four may be used for the
foundation of spinach receipts, but they
roust all b prepared with the same care.
Wash the separate plants carefully by
dipping- In and out of a pan of cold water.
Then cat the leaves apart and wash thor
oughly. Plunge in cold water again and
shake dry. Then, draining the water from
the leaves, do not hold them In a bunch
against the side of the pan. In this way
the grit and sand remains among- the
leaves, thus completely spoiling them for
eating-. Now throw the spinach into a
hot kettle, add halt a cup of water and
sprinkle over one tcaspoonful ot salt
Shake over the fire until the spinach is
thoroughly wilted, cover the saucepan and
cook slowly 90 minutes. When done, drain
carefully, turn the spinach lata a chap
pis bawl and chop very fine. -Instead at
chopping, the English cook, presses the
boiled spinach through a sieve.
Spinach Souffle. Cook four quarts ot
spinach In the above manner and after
draining oft all the moisture, pass through
a wire sieve. In case the cook has a left
over or cooked celery, turnips or carrots.
add one teaspoonful of each or all after
they have been pressed through a sieve,
to the spinach and grate in one teaspoon
ful of onion. Mix with these Ingredients
two tablespoontuls ot warm butter. Sea
son with salt, sugar, pepper and grated
nutmeg. Add the yolks of two raw eggs
and the whites ot three which have been
whipped to a stiff troth. Pour into a but
tered dish, smooth the top and after pour
ing a little warm butter over it. scatter
some bread crumbs lightly over the sur
face and bake at once in a quick oven
for about 20 minutes.
Scalloped Spinach. Cut some boiled
peakale Into small pieces about half an
Inch In length and heat gradually in
some thick white sauce which has been
flavored with a small quantity of vine
gar. Put one tablespoonful of butter Into
a saucepan and add five or six cups of
sieved spinach. Pour In by degrees one
cup of cream and season with salt, pep
per, a little sugar and some grated nut
meg. Stir the spinach until It 1? fairly
stiff and remove the pan from the fire.
Have ready a porcelain dish which has
been well buttered, line thickly with half
of the pinach. Place the seakale on top
of this and cover with what remains of
the spinach. Smooth the top with a
knife which has been dipped into hot
water, pour a little warm butter over,
sprinkle with bread crumbs and place In
a quick oven for 10 or 15 minutes. The
seakale may be omitted if desired.
Poached Eggs with 8plnach. Cut three
or four small tomatoes Into slices and
cook them In a saucepan containing -one
tablespoonful of warm butter, one small
onion sliced, and a slice ot fat bacon.
When the tomatoes are quite soft, add
one cup milk and half a cup of hot water.
Thicken with one tablespoonful of butter
and one tablespoonful of flour rubbed to
gether and season with celery salt, pep
per and a grating- of nutmeg. Pass the
sauce through a sieve and when needed
reheat. Butter Individual china baking
dishes and make them very hot. Then
put a layer of carefully prepared spinach
Into each and make a hollow la the mid
dle. Fill each with a dessert spoonful of
the heated tomato sauce. Now poach
enough eggs to cover every dish, in boll
Isg water seasoned with salt and one
tabiespooaful of vinegar. As'seott as the
whites ef the egg set. take them .care-fatly-
from the paa with a perforated
spatula, and after draining them well,
trim the white of each egg with a knife.
Lay one of these eggs on each dish ot
spinach, sprinkle with some grated
cheese, run In tho oven for a minute to'
make thoroughly hot. and serve. A more
delicate breakfast dish cannot be im
agined. Stewed Chicory. Wash some heads of
chicory and trim off. but do not divide
them. Parboil in salted water, to which
a tablespoonful of vinegar has been add
ed. Drain and finish cooking them la
clear soup stock or In hot water flavored
with beef extract. "When done, drain the
chicory and place it on a hot dish and
cover with a sauce made as follows:
Make a cup of white sauce with one cup
of milk, one tablespoonful ot flour and
one tablespoonful of butter. Add a little,
cream if desired, and season well. Allow
this sauce to boll up. then draw to the
side of the stove and stir In the yolk of an
egg which has- been beaten with two
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Serve at
once.
Braised Lettuces. Select fresh lettuce
heads with Arm white hearts. Wash In
several waters, put Into a saucepan ot
boiling water and cook for five minutes.
Remove, the lettuces wjjh a skimmer and
press as much of the water as possible
with the bands. Place some thin slices of
bacon at the bottom of a stewpan. fold
the lettuce leaves tpgether and lay them
on top of the bacon. Season well and
cover with boiling water and one table
spoonful -of butter or with unskimmed
broth. Place a sheet ot greased paper
over the pan and braise for one hour and
a quarter over a moderate fire- When the
mtxture is reduced to a glaze, drain tho
lettuce leaves, place on a hot dish ard
serve with brown gravy poured r over
them.
The Other "Echo.
American Spectator.
According to statistics gathered from
the best stenographers, the average
speaker uses 120 words a minute. This
does not, of course, take into account the
case of a man who ha3 tne iron-shod
trunk lid fall on his neck when he is rum
maging for a collar button.
The Pessimist's System.
. Puck.
Clarence Coopah "Am dar any way ob
tellln a horse's age 'oept by lookln' at
his teef, Sidneyr
Sidney Sinclair "Well. dar8 taah way
ob tellln. Ah gen'Hy tells by da "number: -
a years Ah. been a-bettia' on Mm." " , j j
4 f.