THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 1, 1906. 43 I : 9 . : :1 ; . j WR1XC STYLES TOR YOONG GIRLS. DAINTY INDOOR EFFECTS. THE Spring style? presented for young girls' wear show' In the most note worthy Instances a Parisian .prettl-. ness. The coat gown, well made and of Rood material, shows 'as much Vf thlsr charm as the more drossy frock. For In llnite smartness a Jacket of short length exactly matches the skirt. Most charming and practical are some ready-to-wear models of panama, plain cloth and fancy suiting. A short, double breasted Eton, with strapped bands of Ihe material, fancy buttons and a touch t)f contracting color on the collar, com poses the upper garment of these. The ileeves are wrist or three-quarter length. "When In the latter cut they are often wldo and shirred Into smart turn-back cults, or else finished by a plain band decked with braid or edged with silk j ruches. j The prevailing skirts for young misses j show the all-popular and becoming bias . cram at the front. The sides art-circular, with the oddity sometimes of a straight back breadth, very narrow and laid In stiff pleats. But the most satisfactory of these skirts arc without pleats cither back j or front, and if a girl is plump enough , to wear the simple circular cut the effect ! Is wonderfully stylish. In the way of material that Is. for practical use panama cloth, which may have either a brllllantinc or serge finish, stands virtually first. The new weaves In this admirably wearing material reach a point of fineness which earn for them the prefix of. chiffon., .though even the niONt delicate pan a mas have some of tilts wlrinesa which Is the virtue of the ma terial. Some litle coat frocks for maids In their teens showed charming arrangements with black panama and color. The color was expressed In the slightest touches on the collar, cuffs and girdle of the dress. How ever, in many Instances, the girdle Is a shaped zone of the frock's material, though when of soft silk, satin or velvet It achieves a far dressier effect, for as often as not the frocks Is the best out door one in a schoolgirl' wardrobe. But the cloth zone is easily changed for the smarter belt, and with a lingerie shirt waist of special daintiness and a fresh hat In suitable style, such a get-up may be worn for almost any day occasion. Side by side with these neat and smart suits are the bodice dres.se, in charming Spring colors and designs. These have a specially French quality, and It must be admitted that in many cases they are expensive, for to be entirely approved of such costumes must show the most fault less make. The very restraint which Is required for young girl's wear which the French so quaintly oall discretion calls for extra price with these gowns. There must be trimming, but not tx much of It, and wherever handwork can be ticed It Is ' carried to such painstaking petal that the wonder comes that the dross Is u cheap as it is. Blurred plaid In soft wools almost as delicate as veilings an much to the fore These arc made up frequently without other trimming than a girdle In solid color and perhaps rever and cuffs of It A charming little gown of this nature showed a skirt In three detp kilted flounces and a blouse bodice cat to expose a smart white silk shirtwaist. The colors of the plaid were soft pale browns on a paler brown background, a dim and yet beautiful shade of green taffetas compos ing the girdle and bodice trimming. This gown is shown in the larger of today's drawings, and the hat which in given with it is charmingly suitable. The shape is pale brown straw with wide undulated brim and trimmings of white flowers and green velvet ribbon. The en tire get-up is suitable for any day occa sion. Another mart dress in this picture shows one of the new season's most charming fads, which is saying a great deal, for it is evidently to be a Simmrr of many favorites. This is the yoke frock from which Is displayed with the large feathered hat. the two composing a high dress get-up of uncommon distinction. The gown is of pineapple tissue not th pine apple tissue of the Philippines, but of I France it Is in a dim soft pink, with trimmings of cream French lace In a youthful pattern. The sash and sleeve bows arts of taffetas in a deeper, rose, j and the feather and soft silk of the hat. wnira is a wiae jegnorn snap, matcnes tho color or the frock. Apropos of this falnl and Under pink, called faded rose which title, by the way. does not in the least describe it It will doubtless have a specially elegant vogue. The materials seen in It are all expen sive, and the completed gowns display the finest touches the sartorial hand can give, the rarest and most adorable motifs. One very dapper street frock so called" in this tint was of cloth with a severely tailored circular skirt, and jaunty pony Jacket. Other cloth gowns show the dim pink, deepening and deepening till the last frock may bo almost red. There is no doubt about it. color Is once more to have a vogue of elegance, and even It a frock is ostensibly all white there is bound to be & tinted line somewhere on the bodice. A white coat of Irish lace, shown with a linen skirt magnificently inset with the same, displayed a bias band of deep buff linen around the neck and down the front. One of the Utile Eton frocks already described, and a Spring raglan are tho two remaining models in this picture. The coat is In checked sage covert In the douole-breasted and loosely simple shape advised for practical wear. The big but tons are of bone In the sage tint of the deeper line of the plaid. The hat with its fancy feathers makes a dashing finish. The majority of the coats shown for younjr girls wear have no special dis tinction, but occasionally, as here, a long model will seem very smart. The lack of prestige the shorter separate Jacket enjoy. Is doubtless owing to the fact that the gown with Its own wrap has almost ousted this old-time favorite. So. except In the case of these very swagger three quarter coats and longer ones for rain use. the odd coat Is for the moment set aside by ultra-fashionables. That Is where young girls are concerned, or odd taffeta coats, exquisitely fussy, are to be one of the reigning features in the grown-up world. In the second picture are given three very dainty frocks for smart Indoor use. These express models of a high priced and choice nature, but so simple are the designs that any one of the toilettes could be turned out In quite a modest material. Taking first the frock showing a skirt and crossed bodice elaborately trimmed with lace, the materials here employed aro India muslin and Valenciennes In a rare pattern. The underslip Is also pale rose silk and all the work upon the frocks seams excepted 1 done by hand. However, this frock could be adorably copied for $15 by substituting ordinary mull or organdy and point d'esprlt or plain footing for the lace. These airy net garnitures are far superior to cheap laces, and despite their comparative ln expenalveness. th-y give a look of charm ing distinction. Lastly pale blue, pink or apple green lawn could be used, for the underslip. The second frock In the foreground Is built entirely of pale gray Ioulsine. but a very simple delaine with soft silk for the fichu collar could be substituted. In this case (he whole dress the wide soft belt with sash ends not excepted should be in one color. Gray Is very much exploited for young girl's wear, and the bodice of many of the street gowna show charming white guimpes and deckings of narrow Valen ciennes also pure white,-the latter out lining an entire stiff little coat some times. The third dress In the smaller picture is of pale blue veiling with white lace and blue chiffon trimmings. The square Dutch cut of the neck of this is the decolletage approved for maiden wear. To take the gown subject In its entire ty, delicacy of coloring, fineness of mate rial and faltlessnes of make, are the pre vailing features in the '0 modes for young- girls. Fancy veilings are also ad vised rather than plain by many dress makers who claim that the latter mate rial like cloth. Is too old for the blithe ages which He between 14 and IS. Still there are many. cloth dresses for younjc girls. The entire color of one wonderful chiffon cloth dress with the exception of the chemisette and girdle was a deep rich cream. White tucked net and lace composed the chemisette and flame-colored satin the high girdle. But. of course, such a dress would need splendid surroundings and could only be worn for the grandest functions. A wide cream straw hat with flame-colored feathers had been sent over with the wonderful French frock, which was for a. girl of 12. Hats are all decidedly more lovely in tho maiden world than they were a "sea son or two ago. Color and posy decking!? everywhere riot, and the plainer shapes for tailored costumes are so carefully made that they lose nothing through the extra touch of soberness. Most of the hats on the plain tailored order are now made by hand, the cheaper ready-to-wear thing once so much exploited, having proved its worthlessnes. And the choic est ornaments of all axe certain wide quills, enormously long- and exquisitely colored. Two In a girl's gray hat. trimmed with a smoky blue velvet, showed these colors blended In a way to seem like poetry. It was as it a great, strange and yet blessedly quiet bird, had suddenly lighted in the shop window. MARY DBAX. On the Making of an Ordinary Cook Cakes Without Butter, by Director Portland School of Domestic Science. THJ3RB seems to be a very general superstition that "Angel Food" Is one of the hardest cakes to make successfully. Perhaps tho name has some thing to do with this, as well as the ex treme precautions with which some cooks and cookbooks bewilder the novice. A lady once informed me that she always used a now cakepan for angel food, sifted the flour 13 times and allowed no one to walk across the kitchen floor while the cake was In the ovon, and still the calco was flat and tough! The fact of the matter is that tho mix ing of such a cake is extremely simple, and tho baking of It Is not difficult, if 'you realize what kind of material you arc dealing with and consider the effect of high temperature on egg-whites. Soa to it that the heat of your oven Is steady and not excessive, and don't try to hurry matters. 'Hurry Is one of the besetting sins of the "ordinary cook"; she too often tries to tnako it take the mace ot lorPinuuKiu mri"" v li I.. onmnllalieil OOOk" is CI- podltlous. but rarely hurried. She has formed the. habit of consciously or un consciously timing all her operations, so that sho has n fair idea of what can or cannot be done in a given number ot minutes. She can usually get through more work In a given time than her less t xncrienred winter, but she docs not at tempt to hustle tho baking of her bread and cakes or the simmering of her stow. Supposing then that you have good sense and a good oven us well as plenty of t me and egg whites, there is no reason why you should not make good angel food at your very first attempt. Rwipos for this cake call for from S to 12 egg whites to one cup of flour. The best way. since eggs differ In size, is to take them by measure rather than by count. The following is a useful formula: 1 cup egg whites (unbeaten). 1 cup (level) tine granulated sugar. 1 cup (level) flour (measured after twice sifting). ' H teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon (level) cream of tartar. 1 teaspoon flavoring almond and vanilla, (mixed) rose, or orange flower water. You add the salt to the egg whites, and beat there until perfectly stiff (see that iliey will cut with a knife), then fold in the sugar (sifted) and add the flavoring, finally .fold in the flour after sifting it two or throe times with the cream of tartar. This sifting is to secure thorough mixing of the cream of tartar, and also to get some air entangled with the flour. Mix it very lightly, just enough to hide the flour, keeping it as bulky as possible. Turn the mixture into a tube-pan with a sheet of white ungrcased paper at the bottom. You see the mixing part is very quick and simple. For the baking you need a moderate oven and steady boat, uch an oven as you would use for baking loaves (not rolls) of bread. A tcaspoonful of flour on a piece of paper placed where the cake is to be, in the middle of the oven, should begin to change color round the edges in Ave or C4 minutes. It Is a good thing to cover the pan. without of course touching the cake, with a baking sheet or tin or piece of stiff paper to prevent its browning too soon. Remove this cover in half an hour, when the cake should be fully risen, and bake half an hour longer. Toughness is caused chiefly by too high temperature, but if you use too cool an oven the cake will be raw in the center. Steady, moderate beat is what Is wanted. I have had good suc cess in an oven that refused to stay "moderate" by using an earthen pan for baking and sotting a cup of water in the oven. A double boiler has also dono sat isfactory duty as an angel food pan. The cake was allowed to rise in the water jacket with the lid on and finished off with the inside pan only, and no lid. "Where time for baking is short good re sults can be got with individual cakes baked in iron gom pans. These must be heated before the mixture Is put in. Test your cako with a thin bright skewer or knitting needle before removing from the oven, and be sure it does not get too deep ly colored. Turn tho pan upside down when it comes from the oven, so that the cake will hang in the pan with circulation of air underneath. It can be removed when cool by slipping a thln-bladcd knife between the cake and the sides of the pan. In frosting such a cake it lc some times well, on account of its rather rough surface, to give a thin coating first, and a second when that is dry. The frosting is not necesary. but helps, to keep It moist. It should be broken apart with two forks rather than cut. The formula given above is not sweet enough for some tastes; as much as one and one-half cups of very fine sugar bclng sometimes used. Coarse sugar will give a coarse-grained cake. One-third of a cup of cornstarch and two-thirds of flour may be liked better than all flour. Some people, too, prefer to sift the flour and sugar together and fold them In at the same time. The best way is to try for yourself and suit your own taste and convenience. You can make a "Sunshine Cake" by folding In the well-bcaten yolks ot six eggs (sometimes beaten with the sugar! before adding the flour. Sunshine Cake Is really a rich variety of sponge cake. There are. however, various poor rela tions of sponge cake called by the same name, but making up in baking powder what they lack in eggs. Sponge cake proper has no baking powder, and If well made is perhaps the most easily digested cake for children and invalids. Here again long beating and slow baking are Ue Im portant points. A friend of mine "stlred up" a sponge cake In a hurry one day. It was to be served at dessert, but was not altogether what her fancy had paint ed It. Tiie adult members of the family however maintained a discreet silence un til a small niece piped up, "Please, auntie, may I have some more omelet T' A good formula for sponge cake Is as follows: Three eggs, the weight of all these (in their shells) In very fin granu. latcd sugar, and the weight or two only In fine flour: 1-lSth teaspoon salt, rind and Juice ot half a lemon. This formula by weight Is more generally correct than one by measure. Begin by preparing your cake pan. Grease it thoroughly and eift over the surface a thin film of flour, or of flour and icing sugar mixed In equal parts. Tie a band of un greased paper round the outsldo of the tin. letting It project at least two inches above the tin. Then mix the cake. Separate the yolks and whites; beat the former about five minutes, add the sugar, and beat un til light colored and almost stiff. Best the whites until quite stiff- Fold In half of these, then the sifted flour, then the remainder of the whites. Stir as little as possible in order not to flatten the mix ture. Put at once into the prepared pans and bake in a moderate (bread) ovta at least 45 minutes. It is a good plan to set the cake tin on a baking pan con taining a thick layer of sand or salt, previously heated. This prevents undue browning of the bottom and secures steady heat. The top may be protected with paper as in baking- angel cake. This same mixture will make good sponge drop cakes or lady fingers. Sponge cakes containing- baking pow der are somewhat easier to bake -and require a slightly hotter ovon. They usually contain some water which Is beaten in a spoonful at a time (with a I... . ... . I nine nour to maintain me consistency) before the addition of the whites and the bulk ot the flour. Lemon Juice and rind jvare most generally used for flavoring, but I tills can. of course, be raried to taste. uon i torget tne p:ncn of salt with the egg whites, even though your recipe docs not mention St. LILIAN E. TINGLE. Choose Books as 1906 Easter Gifts THAT most absorbing, of individuals, the American shopkeeper, has learned to cater cleverly to Americans fad for gift making. Time was that Easter was confined almost entirely to children. The old-fashioned custom called for the exchange of home-colored eggs or the confectioner's wonders In crystal can dy showing siereoptlcon pictures. Then came Raphael Tuck and his cards, and the florist saw hU chance with egg-shaped baskets filled with costly Spring blossoms. These were sent by swain to sweetheart, by guest to hostess, and sometimes by mere husbands to wives. Last year cut Cowers gave place to growing plants. This year it Is books. Books Illustrat ed, printed and bound especially for Easter gifts, beautiful editions bearing resurrection suggestions: Inexpensive books in purple, white and silver glorifi cation, and when all else falls, simply bound books set in boxes or paper wrappings and tied with ribbon bearing Easter messages. And really, after all Is said and done, the new fashion Is the best of all, for books live like Easter thoughts, long; after potted plants and Easter messages are faded and forgotten. In the books selected by publishers for the Easter season, there Is little enough suggestion of the resurrection senti ment, unless you can call idealised love the outgrowth of the Easter spirit. Of cours. you will find many of the paper round booklets combining Easter poems. Illustrated with a wealth of floral de sign and bound so delicately ax to be utterly Impractical. These can be se cured from 25 cents up and are Intesded merely to take the place ot cards. A word to the Easter shopper. In no other store today will you be more wel come than in the -book shop. Provided you remove your gloves to display saowy finger tips, you are at liberty te brewxe by the hour asaong its Easter offerings. But you may be swre that the gloved hands are regarded with suspicion by the book seller. Gloves, no matter haw little worn on the street, always hold pa4bUl tles for ruining dainty feiadlsgs- Try Cooked Greens as a Change of Diet EEP your family well during the Spring months by substituting green vegetables for the meat course as often as possible," Is the advice of a fam ily physician who advocates careful diet rather than uncertain drugs as the surest road to good health. "Thei do not necessarily have to be in the form of salads to be appetizing, either. Have them prepared with some care and thought and you couldn't wish for a more delicious kind of food. Tho trouble is the average cook never takes time to -thoroughly clean and properly season green vegetables, and they . are passed un touched by half the persons at the table." The last truth strikes home to more than one housewife, who. though she may have tried to convince her family ot the curative properties of spinach and other cooked green vegetables, still finds that they prefer the regular diet of corn, beets, etc to the succulent varieties served as they usually are In haphazard fashion. "She new school of cookery, however, gives many helpful suggestions with re gard to this class of vegetables, and here are a few gleanings: Of all the green vegetables, spinach contains the largest amount of medicinal qualities and can be offered in the great est number of appetizing forms. The delicacy of all spinach dishes, however, depends first. last and always upon the care with which the leaves are washed and boiled. Four kinds ot spinach can be obtained at this time of year the regular crinkly leaf, thin curling leaves. Ilkn parsley, known as greens, dande lion tops. and. least expensive of all. the long;, narrow leaves which are cut from beets. Any of these four may be used for the foundation of spinach receipts, but they roust all b prepared with the same care. Wash the separate plants carefully by dipping- In and out of a pan of cold water. Then cat the leaves apart and wash thor oughly. Plunge in cold water again and shake dry. Then, draining the water from the leaves, do not hold them In a bunch against the side of the pan. In this way the grit and sand remains among- the leaves, thus completely spoiling them for eating-. Now throw the spinach into a hot kettle, add halt a cup of water and sprinkle over one tcaspoonful ot salt Shake over the fire until the spinach is thoroughly wilted, cover the saucepan and cook slowly 90 minutes. When done, drain carefully, turn the spinach lata a chap pis bawl and chop very fine. -Instead at chopping, the English cook, presses the boiled spinach through a sieve. Spinach Souffle. Cook four quarts ot spinach In the above manner and after draining oft all the moisture, pass through a wire sieve. In case the cook has a left over or cooked celery, turnips or carrots. add one teaspoonful of each or all after they have been pressed through a sieve, to the spinach and grate in one teaspoon ful of onion. Mix with these Ingredients two tablespoontuls ot warm butter. Sea son with salt, sugar, pepper and grated nutmeg. Add the yolks of two raw eggs and the whites ot three which have been whipped to a stiff troth. Pour into a but tered dish, smooth the top and after pour ing a little warm butter over it. scatter some bread crumbs lightly over the sur face and bake at once in a quick oven for about 20 minutes. Scalloped Spinach. Cut some boiled peakale Into small pieces about half an Inch In length and heat gradually in some thick white sauce which has been flavored with a small quantity of vine gar. Put one tablespoonful of butter Into a saucepan and add five or six cups of sieved spinach. Pour In by degrees one cup of cream and season with salt, pep per, a little sugar and some grated nut meg. Stir the spinach until It 1? fairly stiff and remove the pan from the fire. Have ready a porcelain dish which has been well buttered, line thickly with half of the pinach. Place the seakale on top of this and cover with what remains of the spinach. Smooth the top with a knife which has been dipped into hot water, pour a little warm butter over, sprinkle with bread crumbs and place In a quick oven for 10 or 15 minutes. The seakale may be omitted if desired. Poached Eggs with 8plnach. Cut three or four small tomatoes Into slices and cook them In a saucepan containing -one tablespoonful of warm butter, one small onion sliced, and a slice ot fat bacon. When the tomatoes are quite soft, add one cup milk and half a cup of hot water. Thicken with one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour rubbed to gether and season with celery salt, pep per and a grating- of nutmeg. Pass the sauce through a sieve and when needed reheat. Butter Individual china baking dishes and make them very hot. Then put a layer of carefully prepared spinach Into each and make a hollow la the mid dle. Fill each with a dessert spoonful of the heated tomato sauce. Now poach enough eggs to cover every dish, in boll Isg water seasoned with salt and one tabiespooaful of vinegar. As'seott as the whites ef the egg set. take them .care-fatly- from the paa with a perforated spatula, and after draining them well, trim the white of each egg with a knife. Lay one of these eggs on each dish ot spinach, sprinkle with some grated cheese, run In tho oven for a minute to' make thoroughly hot. and serve. A more delicate breakfast dish cannot be im agined. Stewed Chicory. Wash some heads of chicory and trim off. but do not divide them. Parboil in salted water, to which a tablespoonful of vinegar has been add ed. Drain and finish cooking them la clear soup stock or In hot water flavored with beef extract. "When done, drain the chicory and place it on a hot dish and cover with a sauce made as follows: Make a cup of white sauce with one cup of milk, one tablespoonful ot flour and one tablespoonful of butter. Add a little, cream if desired, and season well. Allow this sauce to boll up. then draw to the side of the stove and stir In the yolk of an egg which has- been beaten with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Serve at once. Braised Lettuces. Select fresh lettuce heads with Arm white hearts. Wash In several waters, put Into a saucepan ot boiling water and cook for five minutes. Remove, the lettuces wjjh a skimmer and press as much of the water as possible with the bands. Place some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a stewpan. fold the lettuce leaves tpgether and lay them on top of the bacon. Season well and cover with boiling water and one table spoonful -of butter or with unskimmed broth. Place a sheet ot greased paper over the pan and braise for one hour and a quarter over a moderate fire- When the mtxture is reduced to a glaze, drain tho lettuce leaves, place on a hot dish ard serve with brown gravy poured r over them. The Other "Echo. American Spectator. According to statistics gathered from the best stenographers, the average speaker uses 120 words a minute. This does not, of course, take into account the case of a man who ha3 tne iron-shod trunk lid fall on his neck when he is rum maging for a collar button. The Pessimist's System. . Puck. Clarence Coopah "Am dar any way ob tellln a horse's age 'oept by lookln' at his teef, Sidneyr Sidney Sinclair "Well. dar8 taah way ob tellln. Ah gen'Hy tells by da "number: - a years Ah. been a-bettia' on Mm." " , j j 4 f.