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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 14, 1906)
2 CUT" By Katharine Anderson HERE is a lull In fashions just at present. The average woman has spent her energies in holiday shop ping and all thought of clothes has been dropped for the few short weeks until the preparations for Spring begin. For a comparatively small class or women, however, who live on a limited income and yet do little or none of thoir own sewing, this is the very time for buying the greater part of the "Winter wardrobe. The sweoping reduction in prices after the first week in January en ables her to present a very smart ap pearance for the remainder of the sea son, while next Fall -these same clothes will serve until the next post-holiday sales. It takes a clever woman, however, to do shopping at this time successfully. She must know the value of materials and she must have a sense of 'future styles. To buy an article of dress that, "is in the tip of fashion now means next Fall to find one's self with a garment that is just a bit out of date. So it is most essential to study the inclination of modes before choosing anything from the mid-season sales of goods, and if possible select something that Is a little ahead of the present styles. An important garment for consideration in post-holiday sales is the heavy separ ate coat. The frock of one muterial bids fair to have as long a vogue as the shirt waist dress which it has replaced, and such being the case, loose and semi-flt-ilng wraps will continue in favor for at least one and probably several years more. These .separate cloaks are shown both in stunning mixed tweeds and in plain broadcloths, the latter distinctive because of rich colorings and handsome braid ings. Up-to-date models in the semi-fit-ting style of coat are shaped to the figure Learning to Express Individual Tastes AU,at Personality in Dress Means to the Woman in the Business World. WOMAN'S first duty to herself and to those around her is to be an individual. To lose her identity in her surroundings is the ideal of the old-fashloncd woman, and it is distinctly out of dale. The woman of 1D0C has a larger field to work in. a more powerful influence to exert and a broader scope of "her abilities, and to accomplish her mission she must learn to stamp the im- - press of her own personality on all that she says and docs. Nor is this development of Individu ality something that can be acquired at . a moment's notice. It is a matter of growth, and Is attained by a girl or woman constantly expressing her best self. In the books she reads, in the friends she cultivates, In the clothes she wears and in the very manner in which she walks and talks and moves she tolls a story of individual tastes, harmonized with her surroundings, but still her own, and the outcome of persistently choosing what she likes and then seeking to make it her own. The most difficult part of it all is to find what one most wants, and this should be begun in the schoolroom, if it is to be developed to Its highest point. Girls just entering their teens have a way of asking each other what color they most like, what is their favorite flower or which jewel they think the prottlest. It is the first step In the de velopment of indn-idualily and the girl who has no opinions on these simple subjects should make up ber mind at once. If one color does not stand out ahead of another, she should choose yellow or red or blue or grepn, -and make it her own. Begin by getting little fittings for her room in that color. Have her bureau covered with linen in that color and all her boxes and knick-knacks showing a sign of It somewhere. Her work basket ' and desk trappings should bear witness of it, the coverlet of her bed should be lined with it and the curtains and chair coverings should bo of scrim and denim in the-samc color. The fact that she has made this color her own cannot fall to impress itself on ber personality, and she will have broken ground for further ex pressions of her own self. The fad -will die away after it has performed its mis sion, but It will leave Its mark. The next step in tho development of Individuality is to express personal tastes In the books one collects or rec ommends. Everyone knows the girl who . absorbs one writer's books until -she can almost repeat them by heart, and finally takes on "herself the very attributes of the characters she reads about. The girl who learns to express herself, however, reverses this order and chooses her books bcausc they reveal the best of what she thinks and feels. - This means that she docs not stop -when she finds something that pleases her in --one author's work, but placing some of the books on her bookshelf, she goes to - other authors in search of new thoughts that appeal to her. Gradually increasing ana enlarging in mm way, lier collection of books or her list of favorite authors V 'MS ; A v like a suit coat in front, while the back hangs loosoly from the shoulders. An example of this graceful cut ap pears in a three-quarter length wrap of deep emerald green broadcloth. Wide stitched panels of the cloth trim the front and sides, and narrow bands of the same outline the seams in back. Cut with great fulness, the sleeves arc plaited In at the shoulder scam, extending in two inverted folds to the collar. Braided panne velvet in white sets off the neck and sleeves. Topping this coat, a hat of emerald green velvet with modish flar ing brim displays a peculiarly shaped crown of white lace and a cluster of short white plumes nestles beneath the brim at the right side. Heavy coats for hard practical service arc built of coarsest tweed, which allows usually a striking bluck-and-whlte ef fect relieved by brilliant velvet collars, cuffs and pocket. An ankle length cont in steel gray tweed lias a very up-to-date look because of a tapering box pleat Hint reaches from the Alice blue velvet rovers to the bottom of the coat kirt. The style is clearly Princess, and a double row of large buttons fastening the long pleat add a final swagger touch. If a loose separate coat Is preferred for hard wear, the empire yoke with shaped bell skirt attached promises to be even more popular next year than this. In some cases this yoke Is concealed by a rcallv u " ., m nt'r c,,ac,icr rcan is. They tell the storv of br emotions and fniiHrc ami imnn.r she may have gained by reading them, she is not the product of their Ideas. In similar manner does she choose her friends. Admiring truthfulness in this person, she seeks her out as a constant companion. Beauty and grace in others make them desirable as social acquaint ances, and so on through the list of her friends. Each one stands for some quul Ity which she admires, or which offsets a trait in her own character. Her friends are not friends because they have strayed into her life. She has picked them with a knowledge of what they mean to her, and they are the expression of herself. In hor personal soech and bearing she has even a greater fliuitoo tn rnvnai imr Individuality. Clothes particularly tell an important story, as a woman who is in the business world well knows". To be received with favor in these days, not only is neatness and good grooming in feminine attire absolutely essential, but each woman must have a style all her own. To obtain this moans thnt a woman must give careful study to whatever clothes she puts on. Simply to step Into a store and buy the first thing that comes to hand will sooner or later crush all personality, and the woman who docs It must pay the price by losing her identltv. both socially and. If she Is self-supporting, In a business way. So. extensive has the field of dress grotfn that It Is possible to satisfv each individual fancy, and a woman has no excuse for buj-ing a frock or suit or hat just because It looks well on some one else, or because it takes less trouble. On the contrary, she must learn her good points and the style of dress that brings them out to greatest advantage. Her clothes must be adapted to her figure, both In color and shape, her hats must bo suited to tho contour of her face, her stocks must fit her neck. n fact, every thing she wears must be the expression of her most attractive self. In what she says the same holds equally true. To bp careless in her re marks about othor people Is quite as bad as to be slovenly In her dress. She should guard her words with the same attention that she gives to having- her pompadour at just the right angle or her hat at tho correct tilt To make unkind remarks or to express harsh opinions because they come to the mind at the moment or because of the prejudice of persons near. Is to sacri fice the right to make her real opin ions count when she most wants them to. And what her real opinions arc Is largely an outcome of her every day expression of every day affairs. She must tell a story as It was seen by her and, no matter how unimportant they may be, her opinions should be her own and not the reflection of some stronger mind. This is a most efficient remedy for small talk and gossip and allows a woman to be true to her best self without pandering to the beliefs and opinions of others. Lastly there Is tnn J one's self by Carriage of Ui w.iw . THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTIAJTD,. VCnEAT VILi STUTX CCtWG ODE5 TFY BUY- BARGAINS . . strapped and braided -cape which .gives a desirable broudth to. a slim figure. And now a word as to the fur-lined and fur-trimmed coals which can be made to serve for every-day use in very cold weather and for wear over evening and best dresses all through the "Winter. Xo more charming design has appeared for a long time than is carried out in a fur trimmed coat of heavy broadcloth. The bell-shaped fulness hangs loosely from the shoulders to well below the knees, where a deep hem is set off by three nar row bands of imitation minx. Four square graduated shoulder capes, similarly trimmed, spread out over the sleeves, which emerge In full bishop effect and terminate at the wrist in flaring minx trimmed ruffles. Velvet of a lighter shacle than the material forms a. high collar about the neck. The woman who lias long coveted a fur lined coat will find splendid bargains In these cozy wraps. Hunter's red cloth is one of the very smart coverings for the usual white squirrel linings. A more ex pensive garment, but one which lends itseir to all sorts of wear. Is of black or blue rough goods with broad, rolling collar of black lynx. In the matter of tailored suits, it Is not so easy to predict. There is a growing feeling among wcll-drest-cd women that the plain, ready-made tailored suit no ! lnu-'t In elocution, and more fully i., nmnii. ..... r... head and arms and limbs nnn -..ml should be made to express inner beauty and grace The way In which a woman enters a room, the manner In which she sits down, the manipulation of her hands and feet, all help to draw the picture which hor personality registers on the observer's brain and memory. To make this picture ono not to be easily forgotten, the up-to-date woman surrounded by all the culture and re finement of the ages, has no excuse for not expressing- even In the smallest detail of her bearing the case and grace that characterize the most fin ished type of womanhood. Once having acquired these principles of phvsical expression, her own personality devel oped as has Just been described, shines out. over and above everything-cist-. But she must first learn to enter a room easily; that If. lift her feet Just far enough from the floor so that they will not "scuff." but to allow the mo tion, of the body and the sweep of the skirts to bo as even and smooth as a person who Is skating: on Ice. There should never be any Jorks in the mo tion of the body, which should sway slightly with every step, thus avoiding a stiff, rigid poise. In rising frorii a chair or sitting: down the same Idea of limpness and smooth motion must be kept in mind. The effect produced Some Dainty Desk Fittings of Silk THE very latest novelty sent ua from England is an entire outfit for a writing desk made of silk. It offers a charming suggestion to the women who enjoy making useful little knick-knacks for themselves and their friends, and If they are at all deft with their fingers the various articles can be put together In a short time and. at no great expense. Tho first and largest of these desk trappings Is a. portfolio . or. writing board. For a dollar or less a slmplo portfolio can "be bought which Is covered with paper and which holds an inkstand, pen-box and pen-brush at the top, with blotter-lined book below. The portfolio In .-question was covered with fawn-colored moire silk and showed three long Initials Just at the center of the cover outlined in gold thread. Caught to the pasteboard founda tion by means of thread and needle, thc ?Ilk Is stretched very tightly and a nar row dull gilt braid binds the edges. The silk is pasted neatly on the outside of tho small box and pieces of the same braid outline the sides. Two dainty trays, which serve as catch alls for pins, etc, arc very useful and re quire much less trouble to .make. The round tray Is covered with Ivory moire silk. A papier machc foundation for this will cost 10 or 13 cents. A wreath of pale blue forcct-mc-nots Is embro!dirv nn tiA silk that covers the bottom of the .tray. 811U tor Drot&CtlOn a. atwa nf nioar al by these light yielding- movements of the body Is delightfully graceful and pleasing-. The hands and feet. too. must carry out the Idea of restful relaxation. The hands should be allowed to. linns' loosely from the wrists and the feet .should rest squarely on the floor, not curled up under skirts or wound around each other. The head. too. should be poised easily on lhe shoul ders. The Hps closed gently and evenly together. should have the corners turned slightly up. while the ontlre face should be rrcorom that tense look thnt brings deep furrows In the fore head and hard lines In the cheeks. With tnis quiet, reposeful manner only can a woman be free and quiet in order to realize her own real wishes and purposes, and thus to stamp her best self on her every action. And not only docs she attain to the most grace ful and highest type of womanhood but she gains her greatest happiness in realizing- that a cramped spirit and a cramped body are not essential to ngm, irue living, and that she can give expression to her more artistic self. Tlmo was thnt individual rights were considered selfish rights, and that to exprers one's self in one's move ments and bearing- seemed merely self consciousness' and posing, while indi vidual taste In the matter of dress was termed 'putting on lugs." But the modern woman has entered a broader sphere of life, and while she has no need to lose her graceful womanliness, she still has need to'bq more individual and rounded In the expression of her tastes and ideals. SAL.LY CHAMBERLIN. the same rfze Is laid over it- The otlur tray is square, with a pink raolro cover ing, and Just at the center Is applied a miniature head of a pretty woman. The latter arc sold at art needlework shops for 23 or 50 cents. Gilt braid binds the edges of both these trays. A "tall round string box which could be easily put together from pieces of paste board. rhowS on its outer surface a plain gray silk embossed with pastel pink roses. Pink cotton gimp forms the binding and shapes a groove on the side of the box which holds a pair of tiny scissors. A ball of pink string Alls the box, and one end of It emerge? through a small open ing in tho top. For keeping papers and various corre spondence in rood order. quite so handv as a larce.nnvrtnruv Thc. should be square and built of stiff paper 1 the sizes varvlncr from 7 in i in.v..,'r Brocaded silk In any design or coloring, a bright red being particularly effective and serviceable. Is used for the outside cover ing of the envelope. The edges of tha silk should be pasted to the edges of the paper and a pretty gimp or gold braid fastened nvrr In.ranrral th mvolin.. - - . Instead of the usual pointed, envelope nap, me piece wnicn turns, over should curve at the corners and extend down at lhe center lntoa rounding tongue that sllpa through a -ftat. nopee'of ,tho- gimp.. If desired. Hmj inside of the envelope can fee lined with a thin silk, but this is not JAXTJARX . 14, . 1906. 2k 3 So The Making of an Ordinary Cook Ways of Cookin-r rish II, by Miss IJIlian E. Tingle, Director Portland School of Domestic Science. AKING This Is perhaps the least troublesome way of cooking cither whole fish or fillets. After thorough cleaning the fish must be carefully sea soned with pepper, salt and lemon juice and brushed over with melted butter or salad oil. Fillets arc often rolled or fold ed Into a comical shape and cooked in a fireproof china dish (set in a baking-tin half full of water), from which they are served. A pretty and easily served dish can be made by rolling a fillet around a small portlonaof dressing so as nearly to fill a small Individual china case. A well flavored cream or tomato sauce Is then poured round it, a cover of buttered pa lter is provided, and it is then baked over hot water, as abovo described. A pleas ing feature of tills dish is the case with which it Is served no trouble with sauce or hot plates at the last moment. Large fish are often stuffed: sometimes the backbone is removed. before stuffing, thus 'making carving an easier matter. It- the stuffing bo light, not stodcy. Di rections for securing this result have al ready been given. Chopped pickles, capers and parsley are good in the stuffing of a rather flavorless fish. Remember to stitch It up so that the stuffing will not burst out, and to "remove those same stitches before it comes to the table. A baked fish is often skewered or tied so as to form a ring Or S-shape. Cover with buttered paper (which may be removed later. If browning Is desired) and baste with "a little stock fish stock, if. you have any. Oyster liquor, mush room ketchup or lemon juice may be add ed ' to the stock; later this can be thick ened and used as sauce. If you like to be economical. "With some kinds of fish you would remove the skin before serving: with" others, not. Browned crumbs (of course you. Keep a supply of those), chopped parsley and parsley sprigs, sifted egg yolk, paprika and lemon, give you a choice of easy garnishes. Frying Deep frying is best, of course. The fish must be protected by a coating of egg and crumbs., or of frying batter. Instructions for doing this have already been given In connection with meat. Re member that the fish must be perfectly dried, bypattlng In a clean towel, fol lowed by rolling, in fine dry flour, mixed with pepper and salt: if the fish. Is wet and clammy, the protective coating will not stick well, and the fish Is In danger of being dried- up or grease-soaked. The fat-oil "nut butter," dripping or lard must be "tested for an uncooked mixture." Do not add very much fish at a Unie or the temperature will be lowered too much and greasiness will result. When you lift the fish or pieces of fish from the pan with your wire egg-beater, they should be golden brown, crisp and dry- on the outside, and thoroughly cooked and moistened with their own juice inside. Fish fried in this way can be reheated or kept-warm for some time in the oven without very serious deterioration. If the coating was properly done, the fat will have.no fishy. flavor. After the fish is all cooked you Hiaj- put a slice or two of po tato into the fat and heat it to "the tem-va-atura fnr a. wtokad mlTt itre" Ova care ,1 'His longer holds the place it has for so many years, as an extremely smart and still a practical costume. The season's de lightfully feminine frocks, with their graceful lines and soft trimmings, have proved too satisfactory, as well as too becoming, to be lightly pushed aside, and the coat and skirt suit to compete with them in woman's fancy needs to show an extremely modish cut and be simply but elegantly embellished with button and brajd trimmings. One important suggestion is that plaids have come to .stay, both for entire suits and as skirts for basque coats of plain material. Cheap plaids, however, are not to be considered, and as all the new and most attractive patterns are still at a premium, the plaid costume is a rare bargain. That plaid trimmings will con tinue to be used another year is almost a certainty. Sales of. ready-to-wear hats comprise a large collection of felt shapes, with vel vet crowns, as well as a number of sup pic felt walking shapes. The latter arc always a good investment. The best ad vice In regard to their purchase is to hunt for one of distinctive shape or to buy a very large shape that can be bent up to suit, the wearer's face. In illustration, a hat of supple pale blue felt effects a unique style. A wide brim Is made tq stand up almost ful not to burn it), and after cooling some what, strain It through cheesecloth and put It away for your next frying. Fried things are decidedly trying for persons of-weak digestion; but if you use them, it Is rather a good plan to fry sev eral different things while you have the fat hot. and thus save time and fuel. I have often fried doughnuts, fritters, cro quettes and fish in succession in the same pan of fat: but of course they were not all served at the same meal or even on the same day. Comparatively little fat is used, and with care and occasional clari fication the same pall of fat can be used an amazing number of times. Don't for get about draining all fried things for a moment over the pan. and then on soft paper. Keep a supply of kitchen paper hanging near your stove ami sink. You will find it useful in a hundred ways. Broiling. Dry and season the fish and brush it with oil before broiling. If it is splifdown the back and broiled whole, do the skin side last. Brush occasionally with oil or butter while cooking so as to keep It tender and juicy. Fillets or small fish are delicious broiled in cases of but tered paper, which retain the Juice and baste the Hfli at the same time. 9tcwihg. This is particularly good where extra flavor Is desired. Both brown and white stews can be made. The method Is much the same as for meat, but not so .long a time Is necessary. Onion (stuck with two or three cloves), bay leaf, parsley, thyme. lemon rind, mushrooms, anchovy essence and tomatoes afford varying and attractive combinations. Rice, broiled as for curry, is a good ac companiment for stewed fish. A rice stuf fing, by the way. Is worth trying, both for baked and stewed fish. Pickled fish is prepared from either cooked or raw fish, the more oily kinds being generally chosen. In the former case hot spiced vinegar and fish stock Is poured over cold cooked fish: In the letter, a. mixture of cold vinegar and stock or water, with spices (pepper corns, allspice berries, a clove or two. js. strip of lemon rind and a bit of baylcaf) is poured over the raw fish arranged In an earthen dish (the exact strength of the mixture will vary with the kind of fish and the quality of vinegar) and the cooking Is done In a moderate oven. Try smelt done in this way. As for cold leftover fish, here arc some suggestions that may cause the last state of that fl3h to be even better than the first: Fish cakes, croquettes and rissoles moulded creams and tlmbales of fish,' kedgeree, curried fish, scallops, sand wiches, pie. potted fish, fish fricassee, fish omelet, fritters, fish molded in jelly! mayonnaise of fish, fish soups. The accompanying sauce Is highly im portant. Here Is a list of suitable sauces for fish, particularly boiled, steamed or baked fish; with a few ex ceptions they are well within the range of an ordinary cook: Dutch or HoIIandaise, anchovy, brown butter, bcarnalse, caper, egg, Genoese, fennel, green gooseberry; parsley, mayon naise ravieote. tatare. lobster, shrimp. straight, by stifT wiring uoncpalad beneath-circular foid3 of niauvo volvet. At the left side the brim is foldod over Itself In a five-inch dont that is held secure by a shell-shaped rosette of velvet run through by two wide speckled quills. Velvet-crowned hats are quits too pretty to be discarded after one sou son's use. They also are as much In evidence as they were in the early "Winter, and she Is a wise woman, who snatches the very first burgain she finds in them. Veiling, roues and short fur tails mingle beautifully as top ir under trimmings, and a brilliant buckle tacked in somewhere cannot look amiss. "Waists as well as hats are thrown promiscuously on the bargain tables, and blouses or slips, as the English call them, of chiffon velvet are partic ularly fascinating-, both in design ami cut. Yokes and half sleeves of la- distinguish the most desirable of these. One charming- blouse of amethyst vel vet has a vest of imitation Irish luce, with hand-embroidered lingerie revers turning- back on wide plaits of the vel vet. Leg-o'-mutton puffs reach below the elbow in shirrings of the material that form a kind of cuff, hold together by small buttons ami edged around tht arm and to a point above the elbow with Valenciennes lace. Glace silk shapes H deep girdle. Lingerie cuffs and collars proteei these soft waists, and seem to gain in loveliness by contact with this verv rleh muterial. Exceptionally stunuiitir Is the deep cuff pictured, wjiich made its appearance at the beginning of the season In the most exclusive Maison Blanc. Sets of them are now to be found at the best neckwear counters, and lucky is the woman who discovers one among the post-holiday sales. The cuff In question reaches almost to the elbow, and consists of three graduated bands of linen, buttonholed In scallops and adorned with large embroidered dots. oyster, matelote, tomato, cream, mustard melted butter, pats of savory butters of various kinds are often passed with fish. For fish soups or sauces, where fish stock is called for. remember that tho carefully cleaned fins, skins, heads ami bones discarded in the preparation of th fish will yield both flavor and gelatine. A well-known English writer on the art of cookery has said: "A chef, if need were, would see material for an entree. wher nn ignorant servant would see nothing but supper for the cat." LILIAN" E. TINGLE. WOE FROM CIGAR BANDS The cigar band collection fad exploded with a loud bang in the Coatcs House. "Weeks ago Lewis Lokowitz. the cigar clerk there, noticed tluit women were preserving the bands from the cigars smoked by their husbands and men friends and using them to decorate plates with. Quick to realize the advertising value of the new fashion one manufac turer of high-priced cigars produced a very ornate and attractive band for his cigars. Smokers commenced buying th dearer "weeds." The sacrifice of econ omy was compensated for by the enjoy ment of a better smoke and the approval of the plate decorators. But this morn ing one married woman again exhibited inai wisuom 01 tne serpent that has fo often confounded unsuspecting man. She looked demure and simple as she walked up to the cigar clerk. "I want to buy some cigars." she said, opening her purse smd picking out a dollar and some loose bands. "What price, ma'am?" inquired the clerk, opening- the case. "Let me see that sort." aid the lady, putting down a band, "and thatT sort." another band, "and that sort," a third band. Throe boxes were opened. "Ten, two a quarter. 23 straight." said the clerk, matching the cigars by the bands. The woman looked at the dearest cigar and did some figuring on a slip of paper with a stub of lead pencil. Then she dropped the loose bands and the dollar Into her purse and closed it with a vicious snap. "Twenty-five straight, are they?" she asked In a voice of rasping sarcasm. "That's a nice sample of man's economy. My husband's been asking me to be care ful about money for months, and he smoking 23-cent straight' cigars. Now I wonder who " She broke off suddenly and marched out. The cigar clerk stood wondering whaf sort of trouble he had innocently precipi tated. Kansas City Star. Fat Women Xot Madonnas. Atchison Globe. One thing about a big. fat woman: Shs is never accused of having a Madonna like expression.