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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 22, 1905)
THE SUNDAY OREGOIS'IAN, PORTLAXIi, OCTOBER 1905. 43 'BRStZArr TiAJCsrxjrrs ccmTAiuE to we: worttes tor. "yoijk . -' v - . ; . ;-v.v i;; . : : : : : ; : - ; i ' ' , SUilE 5AMFCES 1 fRENCH MILUXERY. I I ; : 1 THE little school frocks which first engage the attention of mammas have been to a great extent ac i omulated. The finer frocks of missy, her , oaiti, hats and the dozen and one things included in the phrase "best bib and tucker," are now the consideration. School gowns are to a great degree bought, ready made, as the shops which cater exclusively to Juvenile wear admir ably achieve the simple styles necessary. But the dressier costume is commonly very expensive when -purchased 'in this shape, and there is .always a chance that the style may be too widely represented. So about this season the beautiful stuffs and trimmings shown by the shops are carefully picked over, buyers of taste look ing long amidst the "confusion of riches for just the right pattern and color. The brilliant plaid materials are much admired and bought in quantities, for" plaid textures are now the rage for young children's wear. All the tartans, of the Scotch clans .are reproduced, the ma terials so patterned running the gamut from wool to the finest velvet. Upon the little wool frocks, which are once more made with the becoming white gulrape, narrow velvets and satin ribbons are used in bands, dotted sometimes with Bmart little rosettes. The velvet Is most often black, but upon the stuff frocks the satin trimming may match a stripe In the plaid, a green and brown and white plaid, for example, being trimmed with green ribbon. "Whenever ther6 Is a black stripe the trimming is. invariably black. In the matter of the guimpe alone there is a decided departure from previous seasons, when this detail was built of silk or satin or lawn closely tucked. But now the smartest gllmpes are at a sum mon' loveliness, for white cotton net and hand-embroidered crepe de chine form a number, while others are of white batiste, showing exquisite needlework. Concession to chilliness Is made .by thin white silk linings which may In turn be backed by a cotton one, though, of course, such splendid fixings are for the .finer frocks alone. "s , One charming noyeljty; In this detachedj yone line was a guimpewiui Jong pun undersleeves of cream 'wnlte'tott.On worked with red and blue Roumanian embroider-" ies. The little gown itself, which was of dull blue wool, also worked with rod and. blue, charmingly suggested the Rouman ian peasant shirt and full skirt. The model, made in England, was for a girl of 8, and although .the effect 'was ex tremely novel and pretty, such a frock could not be called the "best bib." : In fact in this department It would look as if little toilettes could not be 'too fine, for with only the substitution of a short skirt for a long one, the models differ little from those for adult wear. For girls who have come to the dignity of, corsets, the short, coquettish aleevcs are employed with many dainty Jacket effects, high girdles, etc., while the skirt may even show the graceful tunic, which has once more Invaded the realm of plain skirts. Some beautiful -models shown by a French importing house displayed some exquisite toilettes for girls from 4 to 14. Velvet, silk and satin cloth were the choicest materials of these, and It is de lightful to see the manner In which the French 'obtain fussincss without taking . nxav from -rnnfhful Innlr I In fact, so delightfully do they sustain It that sojne of the little frocks v for the younger tots were for all the world like doll dresses, necks being . low, sleeves short and the skirts the merest. nifHe In Ipngth. Inside the decollete little gar ment Is worn-tfae long-sleeved. gulropa" (in materials . described) which,, ;nacTced lrv an other .box to preserve freshness, is shown .separately. 'One of these -charming little dresses- for a -maid of i was'of dull" maize, twilled silk, with white and maize cm broidery and -a bertha collar of - real lace. ,The ooat. for such a garment, "3he ques tioner was told, should be of satm-cloth In the same tint, and the poke bonnct of the gown, silk with white ostrich feathers and a face ruche of tulle and pink rose buds. In all the finer costumes for thlsNage, and a little oldor and younger, the most delicate plain tints or the' various shades of white are employed. The darker colors are reserved for rrlrls above 6, whose velvet or cloth or satin frocks may like wlse display rich plaids or some large and "novel patterning or other. A very smart dress for a girl of S which yet had a simple air was of deep blue twilled silk, patterned with ovals In white and black. The blouse bodice was gathered Into a round yoke, and the dou ble puff sleeves ended wjth the close fore arm . portion, which now concludes this upper fullness - for long sleeves. A very dapper little .point .with this frock way a long tit of black 'satin, .over a novel stock of white silk. Though very smart and also by no means Inexpensive, some jacket frocks In corduroy and velvet among these some times displayed quite . a. practical look. One corduroy dress in speckled brown, with a silky moire finish, was especially plaln In effect, yet very stylish also, with its short-walsted Empire coat. This oat, which Is in several lengths', and others of the Incroyable-sort.-have brought revers In again, so few jackets are seen with the round finish -of .recent seasons. The stiff "Icfoyable collar, which 'turns "over Inside the revers, may be of plain silk or of rich embroidery, or the whole garment may be of untrimmed cloth -which Is the smart est treatment of all. , A Norfolk jacket and plain gored skirt, or a circular skirt with a flounce finish is quite a common model for girls from 8 to 16. Sometimes it is made up by the French in quite fine materials, but the style is preferred here for corduroy, cloth and rough wools of some description. In the same way the foreign makers do what they please with gray, which, like mauve, black and violet, was not formerly con sidered a child's color. As an example of this one stunning frock seen for a girl of 10 was of gray vel veteen in that somber shade generally known as nickel. A short, box coat and flounced skirt composed the model, the cheerful note coming in with an under blous.e of plaited white India silk. Dark er velvet covered the turn-over collar and cuffs. The coat garments for girls at the miss age are far smarter for fine street wear than a costume which needs to bef cov ered with a separate coat- But since the bretelle and suspender support arrange ments are no longer thought very smart, sewers are put to their wits' end for ways to keep the skirt up. One is to have suspender of wide tape or ribbon, the blouse- with an outside belt finish going over these and buttoning on to the skirt belt. Cashmere, In combination with silk or velvet or treated to some hand-made trimming or other, is now a smart gown material suitable for all ages.A number of other soft and beautiful hanging Ialnes are used In colors allowed the youthful. But. of course, frocks In such materials need to be covered with coats, as they have not the solidity necessary for a icnart street effect. A coat dress of cloth, velvet, corduroy, tweed, etc.. made warm Jn the coldest weather by knitted or chamois undcrjackets and topped by be coming furs. Is to be the smart "Winter garment for misses as well as grown ups. The model of the coat Is also an Important point, for the waistline Is either shown with empire shortness or not shown at all. A hip length box model, with sleeves which, seem almost small In comparison with recent modes, Is the next style admired. In the matter of furs, naturally there are some skins prohibited youthful wear ers, such as broadtail, silver fox and others of this description. - The smaller children will wear anything which is soft and delicate, and sets In the woolly Iamb furs, ermine and rabbit skin will make charming the finest frocks. The correct baby-girl muff Is round and of an exaggerated bigness, and the neck piece Is either In the form of, a little cape or a narrow cravat. Ermine and mink, are the preferreB furs for the ages above 10. but as usual many other skins will doubtless be worn. At no time will thd furs' of young girls or young children be trimmed that Is. with laces, ribbons, etc. "The correct look for youthful wenreru can only be obtained by utter plainness. The- splendor of children's millinery Is a point which must strike all shoppers, for the hat which top3 a fine gown must be exceptionally fine in Its make-up. Upon the most elegant millinery, ostrich feath ers are used in profusion, blended In the case of the younger girls with tulle and tiny flowers of infantile loveliness. The poke bonnet, made of silk, satin. lace or velvet. Is the most delightful headpiece for the tinier maids. These are very an tiquated In style, the high, stiff crowns flouncing brims and wide strings giving a charmingly old-fashioned air. One r two delicate crush roses In medium size may appear upon the bonnet of a maid of 6. but the smaller girl Is held down to the knots or wreaths of the little doll-baby sort, which primly edge lace crowns or frame rosy facet In a most fascinating way. Hats In the lingerie shape of the past Summer are of velvet and silk inter spersed with handsome lace, and are bought for older girls when the expensive plumes must be considered. But general ly the fine hat is feathered to the top notch, or else a very handsome plainness Ls sought for through beautiful buckles and splendid materials simply disposed. Buckles are much used In millinery, and never were they larger, handsomer or more varied In style. In the department of grand hats, indeed, it ls generally cith er buckles or ostrich feathers, for only birds of a very fantastic and eccentria description are ever used. The sort oC birds onlx,glfted French lingers can create the Frankenstelns of the feathered tribes. A point nor' to forget with the new season Is trie exceeding smartness of the w"hite-topped patent leather boots worn for high dress by the youngest maids. The most beautifully dressed children al most invariably wear these boots, esi. peclally If they are costumed In wiite or pale colors. Patent leather boots with cloth tops In brown, blue and green are also shown among the Winter styles for older girls. MARY DEAN. WHEN YOU'RE INVITED OUT INFORMALLY GENERAL ETIQUETTE FOR HOME FUNCTIONS, THE THEATER AND CARD PARTIES I INFORMAL evening entertainments of fer busy Americans their principal op portunity for social recreation, and as a consequence conventional etiquette plays a very small part In these func tions. Good form consists chiefly In cer tain delicate courtesies to one's host and hostess and to any who may be their guests. Engraved invitations, the signal of for mality, are never Issued for these occa sions. An invitation for the theater, a card party or a general good time after the dinner hour ls 'either verbal or in the form of a kindly note. The accept ance or refusal of such hospitality, how ever, should be quite as prompt and as gracious, even though it is less cere monious. In considering an invitation for the the ater a girl must know what play she 13 to see and something of its character. An undesirable production can spoil -an en tire evening's pleasure. Then. too. she should never accept a theater invitation from a man whom she docs not know in timately, unless he also Invites one of her friends as a chaperone. If she ls to be one of a large party tills rule, of course, does not hold good. In. the latter case a note Informing her at what hour the performance begins and whether or not an escort is to call for her, requires a short and informal reply. If a man Js invited by a -girl's mother to Join them at the theater, it is perfect ly proper for him to accept without mak ing any offer to obtain tickets or planning to entertain them at supper afterwards. He ls as much their guest as though the invitation was ifyr dinner or a dance, and if a carriage Is not provided by the hostess a man's onlv dutv ic in mv hn car fnri to nnd from thp nlavhnusp Tf Vi Is asked to join a theater party he ac cepts by a polite note and' arrives at his hostess' home Just a few minutes before the time to leave for the theater. In dressing for the theater a' girl's cos tume should .be a light-colored frock with or without a slightly low neck and elbow sleeves. A box or parquet scat at the opera alone permits of the decollete gown, while dark skirt and separate light blouse arc no longer considered in best form for concert or theater except In the uppermost gallerv- Gloves for theater wear should he spotlessly clean, and a neatly coiffed head protected by a fluffy scarf docs away with the need of ruining dress-up hats by crushing them beneath theater seats. Correct attire for a man indicates the long-tailed evening coat with white tic and black vest. The custom o"Wcaring lull dress at the theater is becoming more and more general. Dark gloves which arc worn to and from the play house should be removed on entering the lobby of the theater, and white gloves arc occasionally substituted, though tills is not obligatory. In spite at the fashion of wearing the tall silk, hat both at after noon and evening functions, the crush hat is by all odds the most convenient and Is perfectly proper after sundown. - the theater door a man steps ahead to present the tickets and then stands aside to allow the lady or" ladies to pass in. Before presenting the stubs to the seating page the wraps are removed, and if agreeable to all concerned Uhcy aro checked in the coat' room. Ladles should always follow the page to their seats, their escorts bringing up ,the rear. Once seated a man should never leave a lady's side unless some person comes to visit with her during an lntermlssl&m If the outer wraps aro taken to the scats, no attempt should be made to put them on until the cur tain has dropped for the last time. There is nothing more annoying to per sons sitting near than a commotion caused by donning hats and coats be fore a performance is . finished. The Invitation to the theater does not necessitate a supper afterward, though a small repast is usually served after a performance either at a pleasant res taurant or. In the case of a theater party, at the host or hostess' home. This should bt timed to prevent reach ing one's home' long after 12 o'clock. Dances alone permit of post-midnight festivities for girls, whether debutantes or not. Next to the theater, bridge and euchre parries are the most popular forms of evening entertainment. When the func- tlon is a large one,- the visiting card 1 of fthe hostess on which is Inscribed J In one corner. "Bridge" or "Euchre," j demands a short note as soon as It Is J received, in which the recipient accepts cordially or gives some plausible excuse for refusing. Evening dress ls essen- J tlal to both a girl and a man at such a card party, 'though -for a small gath- J erlng of friends, a well-pressed business J suit is permissible -for a man. j It ls not excusable for a person to' I make one at a card party unless ho or she -understands something of the game to be played. This does not necessarily mean that an invitation must be refused because of Ignorance of the rules, but some effort should be made to read up on the most Important plays before starting a game: Otherwise you are apt to spoil the pleasure of an entire even ing for skilled players. The rules once fairly mastered, there is certain general etiquette connected wun me game, wnicn is necessary to avoid any clashing with partner or op ponents. In tho first place silence must bo maintained while the 1gamc Is In prep ress. Women especially aro apt to bo careless In tnls regard, usually because they do not attempt to keep the' run of the various plays in their mind. It is practically an Impossibility to con verse jand still have a knowledge of the cards which have passed out in tricks. Secondly, make no attempt to correct the faults your partner may display in his or her method of play. This Is ex tremely embarrassing not only to the one who may have made the mistake, but to tho mother players at the table. 'Also there is no easier manner of be ginning a dispute, which is a mark of. unpardonable discourtesy to your host ess. Then, too, you may he at fault in INFORMAL EVENING FUNCTIONS. "THE I'Ol'ULAR HAND-SHAKE." your criticism, thereby placing yourself In an unfortunate light with any strange guests. There Is always a chance that the person with whom you are playing has a broader knowledge . of the game than yourself. Expert card players prefer that all questions as to which wouhi have been the better play In this or that case be reserved until the end of the game or rubber. A mistake very common with the ama teur at cards is to remark. "I wonder who dealt this hand?" or "I've never seen anything- to equal this!" Few per sons, either men of women, have suf ficient control over the muscles of their face not to evidence dissatisfaction or pleasure when they are holding cards sufficiently unusual to cause them to exclaim. In many cases such a re mark gives a clue to the partner as to what should be played, and is unfair to the opponents. Lastly, keep your cards close to you so that the person or persons sitting be side you will not be obliged to rivet their eyes straight ahead of them to avoid seeing what you hold. Tou certainly . would consider It unfulr If thay took ad j vantage of the knowledge obtained in ' this way. Consequently It Is only polite J that you be careful to keep the face of I your cards where you alone can see ' them. I When refreshments are served, wheth er during or after the evening's play, your partner at the previous game Is also your partner for supper. .At the division of prizes, be careful to show no sign of your disappointment If you have been unlucky In having poor partners. There is no surer mark of a true gentleman or lady than the ability to lose at cards gracefully. Many new acquaintances are made at these Informal evenings and the ques tlon of Introductions and future friend ships always arises. Guests, should shake hands wltlv.host and hostess, both when they arrive and as they are leaving. If a man Is Introduced to a girl, unless they have both heard of each other be fore, it Is proper for her to bow slightly with a smile of greeting. Hand shak ing Is not considered In best form, un less a man or woman Is much alder than the girl. Should she be seated when the Introduction ls made, there Is no occa sion for her to rise except out of re spect to superior age. Men always shake hands with each other when Introduced. As to continuing, an acquaintance made at Informal gatherings. American life In cities Is so cosmopolitan 'that each per son has to have a standard of friendship of his own. The fact that you meet per sons at a house of a friend does not al ways signify that you would care to have them on your visiting list. A girl under 25 should never as.k a man to call on one evening's acquaint ance, unless her mother or chaperone Is with her and extends the Invitation first. Neither should a man place a girl In the embarrassing position of having to re fuse his request that he may call. Never display personal dislikes while enjoying another person's hospitality. If you meet deadly enemies, either business or social, do not give your hostess or her guests the discomfort of any disagree able conduct on your part. Speak polite ly, and drop your grievances for the evening. Worked Linen Christmas Gifts Taking a favored peop inside workshops where preparations are now In progress for the great Yuletlde sales, reveals end less charming conceits in natural colored linen and crash. Fascinating In the ex treme arc some of these novel gifts which are being evolved from this Inexpensive material, and to the- girl who makes her presents by hand they offer many hints. So practical and simple that one won ders it has not been thought of before Is a linen coat hanger. Wadding sprinkled with sachet powder and cover ed with cheese cloth completely conceals the ordinary nickel rack, the handle of which Is tightly wound with linen tape To finish this a piece of linen the length of the rack and a little over two Inches wider than the broadest part of the nickel loop. Is buttonholed all the way around the edge with mercerized linen. The stamping for this buttonholed edge could be accomplished by a girl herself wRh the aid of an end of a spool of thread and a pencil marking off the semi-circles. Just Inside the buttonholing at inter vals of two inches, two silts form a nar row strip almost-an inch In length. But tonholing also finishes these slits. A small hole at the center of the linen allows It to be slipped around the curve of the handle and down over the wadded shoulder rack. Tape is then employed to lace through the As of tho linen and underpeath the rack, thus securing the buttonholed cover tightly about the rack. ' Heavy linen in white rather than in Its natural color may bo ustilizcd for this sume purpose, and with the lacings of wash ribbon the entire cover can be removed occasionally and laundered. Applied effects so popular In the world of fashion are also being used in these crasb and linen novelties. For instance, a tamp shade In one piece like a circular skirt shows a huge poppy applied with buttonholed stitch, one blossom on each side. This flower could be easily cut from scarlet linen, using a poppy irom somo old colored print as a pattern. The edges of the shade are finished with red gimp and the whole thing Is thrown over a circular asbestos shade, falling In pretty rlples as It nears the edge and fitting tightly around the collar. On sofa pillows and table colors of crash, shamrocks In green linen aro ap pllqued. Narrow braid in self tone some times edges these leaf patterns and la held In place by French knots of silk cottlng It the entire length. Other ef fective sofa pillows show the Irish In signia already stamped on the crash or linen with perhaps a pretty face at the heart of each leaf. These aro intended ; to be finished with short and long stitch or by outlines oX feather stitching In silk i fl03S