42 OUTDO THE wpie of tMn drcsoes for clill dren's Winter wear forces the moth er te oonkior warm outer garmonts very oarty la the season. Every child ro bots at heavy flannel underwear, and no woman has the courage to Insist upon its we as soon as tho penetrating air of late September necessitate thicker clothing. There is therefore hut one alternative, the heavy coat and felt or beaver hat, and they are selected new with a view to serviee lor the remainder of the cold w oath or. G 01 oral utility: and simplicity mark the Arst Fall purchases of the mother who nadorst&ndfi the secret of keeping her growing child always "well dresecd. Velvet coots, olaborate hand-wrought coats and feather and flower-trimmed hats arc re served until later in the season, and then only for the best wear. The garments chosen at this time are for long, hard service, and they hoar a stamp of . tail ored plainness, though plainness in 1903 has not the Hime meaning which it had four or flvc years back. Just as in the fashions for grown-ups, the strictly tailored garment shows all sorts of elaboration in the way of stitched baitae, innumerable varieties of cloth and leather-covered buttons and fiat appliques of soutache and silk braids. With head gear likewise, ribbons are manipulated with a grace and deftness which render thorn Jaunty and becoming, while at the some time they may retain their charm ing simplicity and practicability. As a consequence, the moth or has no need to think of fancy coats and hats un til "Winter begins. Tho outfit purchased for school wear is plenty dressy enough for best all through the Fall, a last sea son's coat, perhaps, being brought out for wear at rough play. In the mattor of utility coats, three quarter length and short box jackets in military style are having a tremendous vogue. Brass buttons and gold braid deck the smart ready-to-wear garments and WHEN YOU ARE INVITED OUT Important Etiquette for the Dancing PartjTlie Invitation and the Acceptance. HE arrival of one's very first invita tion to a dancing party marks an era in the recipient's social life. All at once exigence takes on a rosy tint. HXe ems filled with Joyous possibilities. Heart? flutter and feet tap instinctively to the ryhthtn of the magic words of invi tation, read aloud to the family circle. Thca a deluge of doubts and fears. The 3eart sinks as suddenly as its hopes had risen. After all, the .Invitation holds out dark possibilities, breaches of etiquette. Ignorance of ''the laws laid down by Dame Grtmdy. Joyous anticipations give place to gloomy doubts, and the questions arise: v -When do I do it?" "How am I to do It?" In answering those inquiries, the start ing point is the invitation itself, or rather its response. If the dance is to be very elaborate, partaking of the nature of a ball, the In vitation will arrive 20 days or a fortnight at least before 'the groat event, and will be engraved on a sheet of hodvy white papor, in a form something like this: Mr. and Mrs. James Jordan request Uie pleasure of your company on Taejday evening, November the third, at balf.aftor 0 e'clook. Dahetag. 215 Dashwoed Avenue. R. S. V. P. The "lottors R. S. V. P. (respondez s'll vous plait answer, if you please), are not always usod in this age of loss formality. An acknowledgement Is oxpectcd. how ever, and the recipient of the invitation should send either rogrets or acceptances within 21 hours. This reply should follow in porson and tense the phraseology of the invitation: Mlrs Carolyn Dnxwell : accept with pleasure the Invitation cf : Mr. anfl Mrs. James Jonlan for Tuesday : evening. November the third. : If the affair Is less formal, the invita tion may be Simply a graceful note from the hostess: My Ier M1m Dagwell "We are having & Jew friend with us on' Tuesday evening:. No vember th third, for an ln'ennal dance. "Will Jxru b .one .of us? Slneerelr yours, HARRIET JORDAN. In this cb.9q the reply should be in My Deaf Mr. Jordan It will give me great pleasure to make one of your company Tues day evening November the third. Tours sin cerely. CAROLYN DAOWELL. Sometimes the. hostess merely -sends tho For the young girl to whom this severe mode is too harsh and unbecoming, Em- pire lines so characteristic of her moth i er's costumes also appear In Fall and I Winter coats. This style of Jacket demands the simulated elbow sleeve finished out I with a tight-fitting cuff of the material i to take the place of long gloves or lace I half sleeves worn tho past Summer. Bo leros and capes which form the yoke of the Mother Hubbard effect are edged with rows of stitching and metal buttons are employed with lavish hand to trim box plaits and tabs. Velvet collar and bands finish neck and sleeves. Materials tor the utility coat do not change much from year to year, though this Fall they partake of the suppleness which Is a feature of all fabrics. Rough serges, and tweeds, heayy broadcloths and coverts, take their place as the most sat isfactory and durable, leaving the novelty of children's outer raiment to colorings and combinations of trimmings. Judging from late Parisian confections for youngsters, the popular color schemes this Fall show that youthful mixtures of black and white, set off by velvet collar and cuffs in bright colors, and a peculiar shade of bluish gray, havo taken prefer ence over the many shades of brown worn last year. Dark blue, always such a satisfactory color, has a brilliant rather than a dead hue in this season's model coats. Bright olive green is also a favor ite, particularly with collar ana cuffs of ur, and for the child who takes care of her clothes there -is no color better suited to youth and beauty than a light shade of tan. A supple tan covert coat will appeal to the mother who dresses her child in light colors. A detachable circular cape gives warmth around the body, and a high turn-over collar does away with the need of neck soarf or-fur piece. The coat it Self in three-quarter length, buttons in double-breasted style with huge pearl discs that also trim the cavalier cuffs on the sleeves. Another sensible three-quarter coat Is Joint visiting card of herself and her husband,, and writes in the lower left-hand corner, "Dancing at nine-thirty, Novem ber the third." This, is altogether the most popular form of informal invitation today, but the recipient does not send her card in reply. She must indite a note of acceptance according to the second form given above. Telephoning Is also a popular method of invitation, especially among suburban ites. In such a case the recipient of the invitation decides at the phone whether or not 'she will be able to accept. Such an invitation requires no written answer. A word in pausing about the unexpected guest. Many girls who "havo accopted In vitations to parties do not know what to do when, as the evening draws near, an out-of-town friend arrives on the scene. In this case it is perfectly proper to call up the hostess by telephone, if such a proceeding Is Justified by the Intimacy of tho acquaintance. Otherwise write a lit tle note something like this: "My Dear Mrs. Jordan My friend. Miss Brown, of Philadelphia, naa arrived unex pectedly, and will be with me Tuesday evening. If your list of guests is not ovorlarge already. I should be delighted to bring hor with me when I accept your kind invitation for that date. Your sin. ceroly. CAROLYN DAGWELL." Tho hostess will no doubf extend the courtesy, but if acceptances have been general and the rooms promise io be filled it is her privilege to decline the re quest and thore should be no ill feeling over the matter. Tour obligations connected with the In vitation having been settled, the question of what ..to wear next arises. A dancing party presupposes evening drero for both girls and men. Only for Summer dances of the most Informal nature ls anything else permitted for men, and then flannels or yachting clothes are sometimes sub stituted. "V In the r.Itv or tho nnhnrha nr- at- try house evening dress Is obligators' upon 1 mill, xius means me ciaw-nammer coat, tuxedo will not do. The troupers match. Waistcoat, linen and necktie are white, and white dress kid gloves are es sential in Winter. The dancing frock of a young frlrl. cven in cold weather, is a filmy rather than , a brilliant creation. All sorts of fine wash materials, batiste, mallne, nets, chiffon, organdie, etc., delicately trimmed with lace, are preferable to Jewels. The ma tron is privileged to wear geoa. The young girl may -wear si string of pearls or "a Jeweled heart "hunr on a flhe cold THJ5 SUNDAY ..OREGOXTAN, PORTIAyD SEPTEMBER 2i, 1905. built of electric blue serge in close, rough weave. A military cape has the ends fastened back with brass buttons and the? tight-fitting sleeves are turned back with a brass button in similar fashion at tho wrist. One thing which promises to make the Empire coat popular for children's wear Is the ease with which it can be fashioned by tho home dressmaker. The loose, flowlnig lines do not require a tailored ap pearance so essential in shaped coats. Pressing, however, is an Important fac tor even with the Empire Jacket, and a tailor's method of using the iron produces most satisfactory results. To press stltch lngs lay tho iron down heavily in one spot over a dampened cloth for a roomeKt. Then lift it and put down in the next spot, do not move the Iron back and forth because it is apt to give a puckered ; ! h mm& ' .V CQKXKCT rOUTKX TO DANCTXQ B chain, a ring or two. a bangle or a brooch. The gown should be cut low at the neck and have short sleeves, or at least give this eeffct. A girl who has a scrawny neck or unsightly forearms may screen them with a filmy lace yoke and long gloves. Dressed kid gloves are considered effect. In pressing seams, open them and wet thoroughly before applying the iron. The same rule must be observed in regard to lifting the heated iron, for it cannot be run along the seam without giving it a drawn appearance. Most effective among children's Empire models is a coat to tho knees in supple broadcloth. A rounding bolero forms the short yoke and square double capes that extend across the back are cut off short as they pass over the shoulder to produce an epaulet effect. Wide box plaits flaring at the bottom mark the Juncture of the full skirt to the short yoke, and a double row of stitching finishes the edges. The lily-shaped elbow sleeves end in loose cuffs with velvet straps, while tight-fit ting cuffs that button on the outside seam cover the arm from elbow to wrist. Another Empire, coat has simple bands of the material outlining the lower edge of the square yoke and the elbow sleeves, while velvet-covered buttons adorn the ends of each band as well as the corners of a short cape-collar. As the Reason advances tho more elaborate Emplro coats for children wnl be completely lined with fur. But a wrinkle Just now for tho utility coat la to have rolling collar and cuffs built of imitation fur cloth which shows all tho pretty -markings and soft colorings of genuine skin. "Heavy short Jackets show tho same box-shaped front and back which has characterized them for several years. Collars In. contrasting colors to the shade of the coat give novelty to the model of 1905. A stunning little Jacket of scarlot flannel Interlined with satin wadding gained Its distinction from a circular collar of white broadcloth trimmed; simply with narrow gold braid. Other coats are finished about the neck with pique and crash collars In the same tone as .the coat, embroidered in Jewel work .of variegated hue. These aro applied Jo the coat with velvet . pipings which lend a charming contrast. In the realm of children's millinery for practical use. beavers and felts show very simple blockings In delicate the best form for dances, but a girl whose hand3 perspire too freely may substitute sik gloves. Dancing slippers for girls and pumps for men are essential. No girl would be considered well dressed If she appeared on a dancing floor with high shoes. "How am I to get there?" Is the naxt vexed question for a girl. OnlyIn the more exclusive circles of big cities is a chaperone considered positively necessary. At a small dance, particularly the Cin derella danco which onds.at midnight, the hostess Is considered" chaperone enough for air her young guests. If both mother and daughter receive an Invitation to a dance, "then the mother may accompany the" girl, greet the, host ess, stay tor a short time, and then re tire, leaving the girl In "the care of the hostess. . if the mother Is not invited or does not care to go, 'any older member of the family or a maid may accompany the girl to the scene of the festivities, and call for her at a pre-arranged hour, to es cort her home. No girl should ever trust to the kind offices of a busy hostess or some chance young man for this escort duty. When the Invitation list Includes a num ber of young people who are mutual ac quaintances in school and at dancing classes, it Is allowable for a young man to ask permission to ac as escort to a young girl whom he knows has been In vited. This is done either by calling upon her, sending a note or even tele phoning, and Is particularly common in suburban life and in the smaller cities. This invitation doe3 not involve provid ing a ' carriage If the affair is Informal, the house of the hostess Is near and the weather .Is good. Neither Is It necessary for the young man to send the girl the flowers she will carry. Flowers play a very small part .at dances, save when tho danco Is given n honor of a debut ante, who then carries one of the many bouquets sent to her by admiring friends. On reaching the house a servant will bo In attendance so that the doorbell is not rung. This servarit indicates the lo cation of the dressing rooms to which guesta go immediately without stopping to .greet the hostess, who may be stand ing Just Inside the drawing room or parlor door. A maid. Is generally In attendance in the room set aside for the girls, and she takes the wraps, draws off the rubbers, or sub stitutes slippers for shoes, and has always at the disposal of guests pins, powder, and other little toilet knickknacks. In this room, will he found the programmes which, aro used even at Informal dances. If a girl has been escorted to the dance by a young man he waits for her at the appointed place at the head of the stairs. He never goes dawn stairs without her. Even a brother would not be guilty of such rudeness to his sister. The girl passes down stairs first and enters the parlor to greet her hostess and the other members of the receiving party, with the young man. Just behind her. The host and hostess and any. who may be re- shades cf gray, tan and white. The trlcorne shape is universally popular, but to some children It is hldeously unbecomlng and should be diligently avoided. When it does suit a child's face, however, the trlcorne Is extremelv trim and requires only a binding and 'broad band or qu::; :n a dark shade of velvet to render It suitable for school wear. Saucer-shaped hats aro decidedly in vogue this Fall both In patent leather and felt. The Jotter are lifted high at the back of the head by a velvet ban deau. A trig velvet bow at one side of the crown forms the only trimming on the upper part of the hat, though occasionally a wreath of Autumn leaves or loops of ribbon are laid at the base of tho crown. No matter what its fate In the fashions of grown-ups. the large hat will alwaj-3 remain the most artistic for the child's face. There is. no lovelier simple hat than a large white felt with huge Alsa tian bow of wide ribbon directly across the front. One model trimmed in this manner has the bow held at the center by large braid rings and the hat Is shaded to the face by a narrow facing of velvet underneath the brim. Ribbon streamers both In velvet and silk are also seen on these large hats at the back. KATHERINE ANDERSON. Precisely. Gentleman with Grievance This auto breaks down every 10 minutes. Conscientious Dealer What of it? Gentleman with Grievance Tou said there were none better! Conscientious -Dealer There ain't. Puck. By Storm. celving with them offer their right hand to each arrival with a word of greeting. If the girl is accompanied with her moth er, an elder sister or a chaperone. this personage goes first, the girl second, and the young man bringing up the rear. Once past their hostess, guests find themselves face to face with one of the most Import ant duties of the evening filling out the dance card. It the dance is given for a debutante or an out-or-town girl, every young man must ask her for a dance. If there is one or more. sons in the host's family, a girl cannot refuse the invitation of any of them to dance unless her card .Is full" al ready.' ; - ? . A girl must use tact hn . declining the i imitations of an undesirable young man. f She must not say that her programme Is 1 full, and then before he leaves permit an j other young man to wrl'e his name in j one of the blank spaces. When asked for a dance, she hands her programme to the young man, with some simple phrase like. "With pleasure," or "I .shall be glad to dance with you." ? . The girl Is always sought' i'or by her partner, who goes to her directly the music strikes up for the number. If he does not appear, she has a perfect right to expect an apology, and many girls consider this so Inexcusable that they promptly give - away any other dances the young man may have on the card. Young men who desire to be introduced to girls ask for these introductions through the hqst or some young man who already knows the girl. As a rule a'guest asks permission of the girl before intro ducing the man. The host may or not do this. After greetings are exchanged the man generally asks for a dance,, and after J1I3 imitation has heen either rterllnetl or n cepted, he may say a few words and re tire. The supper dance is one which directly precedes" the serving of refreshments, and the young man who Is-fortunate enough to secure this dance from his favorite damsel has the privilege of escorting her to supper. It is the .duty of the host or hostess to see that each girl is escorted to the dining-room. Girls should bear this ,ln mind and keep the face serene. A wor ried look stamps' the girl as being un able to hold her own '-with her more- for tunate sisters, at even the most Informal function. Before leaving the guest seeks out the hostess and assures her of having passed a pleasant evening. This I3 done before donning the wraps. A dancing party requires a call from either a young man or a young girl. No one is excused. A young man in business may call In the evening or on Sunday afternoons within a fortnight after the dance. The girl, who Is not encumbered by business affairs calls dur ing the afternoon, generally on her host, ess day at home. The business, girl who has nothing but evenings to herself may mall a calling card within the prescribed fortnight.