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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View This Issue
THE wpie of tMn drcsoes for clill
dren's Winter wear forces the moth
er te oonkior warm outer garmonts
very oarty la the season. Every child ro
bots at heavy flannel underwear, and no
woman has the courage to Insist upon its
we as soon as tho penetrating air of late
September necessitate thicker clothing.
There is therefore hut one alternative, the
heavy coat and felt or beaver hat, and
they are selected new with a view to
serviee lor the remainder of the cold
w oath or.
G 01 oral utility: and simplicity mark the
Arst Fall purchases of the mother who
nadorst&ndfi the secret of keeping her
growing child always "well dresecd. Velvet
coots, olaborate hand-wrought coats and
feather and flower-trimmed hats arc re
served until later in the season, and then
only for the best wear. The garments
chosen at this time are for long, hard
service, and they hoar a stamp of . tail
ored plainness, though plainness in 1903 has
not the Hime meaning which it had four
or flvc years back.
Just as in the fashions for grown-ups,
the strictly tailored garment shows all
sorts of elaboration in the way of stitched
baitae, innumerable varieties of cloth and
leather-covered buttons and fiat appliques
of soutache and silk braids. With head
gear likewise, ribbons are manipulated
with a grace and deftness which render
thorn Jaunty and becoming, while at the
some time they may retain their charm
ing simplicity and practicability.
As a consequence, the moth or has no
need to think of fancy coats and hats un
til "Winter begins. Tho outfit purchased
for school wear is plenty dressy enough
for best all through the Fall, a last sea
son's coat, perhaps, being brought out for
wear at rough play.
In the mattor of utility coats, three
quarter length and short box jackets in
military style are having a tremendous
vogue. Brass buttons and gold braid deck
the smart ready-to-wear garments and
WHEN YOU ARE INVITED OUT
Important Etiquette for the Dancing PartjTlie Invitation and the Acceptance.
HE arrival of one's very first invita
tion to a dancing party marks an
era in the recipient's social life. All
at once exigence takes on a rosy tint.
HXe ems filled with Joyous possibilities.
Heart? flutter and feet tap instinctively to
the ryhthtn of the magic words of invi
tation, read aloud to the family circle.
Thca a deluge of doubts and fears. The
3eart sinks as suddenly as its hopes had
risen. After all, the .Invitation holds out
dark possibilities, breaches of etiquette.
Ignorance of ''the laws laid down by Dame
Grtmdy. Joyous anticipations give place
to gloomy doubts, and the questions
-When do I do it?"
"How am I to do It?"
In answering those inquiries, the start
ing point is the invitation itself, or rather
If the dance is to be very elaborate,
partaking of the nature of a ball, the In
vitation will arrive 20 days or a fortnight
at least before 'the groat event, and will
be engraved on a sheet of hodvy white
papor, in a form something like this:
Mr. and Mrs. James Jordan
request Uie pleasure of your company
on Taejday evening, November the
third, at balf.aftor 0 e'clook.
Dahetag. 215 Dashwoed Avenue.
R. S. V. P.
The "lottors R. S. V. P. (respondez s'll
vous plait answer, if you please), are not
always usod in this age of loss formality.
An acknowledgement Is oxpectcd. how
ever, and the recipient of the invitation
should send either rogrets or acceptances
within 21 hours.
This reply should follow in porson and
tense the phraseology of the invitation:
Mlrs Carolyn Dnxwell :
accept with pleasure the Invitation cf :
Mr. anfl Mrs. James Jonlan for Tuesday :
evening. November the third. :
If the affair Is less formal, the invita
tion may be Simply a graceful note from
My Ier M1m Dagwell "We are having &
Jew friend with us on' Tuesday evening:. No
vember th third, for an ln'ennal dance. "Will
Jxru b .one .of us? Slneerelr yours,
In this cb.9q the reply should be in
My Deaf Mr. Jordan It will give me great
pleasure to make one of your company Tues
day evening November the third. Tours sin
cerely. CAROLYN DAOWELL.
Sometimes the. hostess merely -sends tho
For the young girl to whom this severe
mode is too harsh and unbecoming, Em-
pire lines so characteristic of her moth
i er's costumes also appear In Fall and
I Winter coats. This style of Jacket demands
the simulated elbow sleeve finished out
I with a tight-fitting cuff of the material
i to take the place of long gloves or lace
I half sleeves worn tho past Summer. Bo
leros and capes which form the yoke of
the Mother Hubbard effect are edged with
rows of stitching and metal buttons are
employed with lavish hand to trim box
plaits and tabs. Velvet collar and bands
finish neck and sleeves.
Materials tor the utility coat do not
change much from year to year, though
this Fall they partake of the suppleness
which Is a feature of all fabrics. Rough
serges, and tweeds, heayy broadcloths and
coverts, take their place as the most sat
isfactory and durable, leaving the novelty
of children's outer raiment to colorings
and combinations of trimmings.
Judging from late Parisian confections
for youngsters, the popular color schemes
this Fall show that youthful mixtures of
black and white, set off by velvet collar
and cuffs in bright colors, and a peculiar
shade of bluish gray, havo taken prefer
ence over the many shades of brown
worn last year. Dark blue, always such a
satisfactory color, has a brilliant rather
than a dead hue in this season's model
coats. Bright olive green is also a favor
ite, particularly with collar ana cuffs of
ur, and for the child who takes care of
her clothes there -is no color better suited
to youth and beauty than a light shade
A supple tan covert coat will appeal to
the mother who dresses her child in light
colors. A detachable circular cape gives
warmth around the body, and a high
turn-over collar does away with the need
of neck soarf or-fur piece. The coat it
Self in three-quarter length, buttons in
double-breasted style with huge pearl
discs that also trim the cavalier cuffs on
Another sensible three-quarter coat Is
Joint visiting card of herself and her
husband,, and writes in the lower left-hand
corner, "Dancing at nine-thirty, Novem
ber the third." This, is altogether the
most popular form of informal invitation
today, but the recipient does not send her
card in reply. She must indite a note of
acceptance according to the second form
Telephoning Is also a popular method
of invitation, especially among suburban
ites. In such a case the recipient of the
invitation decides at the phone whether
or not 'she will be able to accept. Such
an invitation requires no written answer.
A word in pausing about the unexpected
guest. Many girls who "havo accopted In
vitations to parties do not know what to
do when, as the evening draws near, an
out-of-town friend arrives on the scene.
In this case it is perfectly proper to call
up the hostess by telephone, if such a
proceeding Is Justified by the Intimacy of
tho acquaintance. Otherwise write a lit
tle note something like this:
"My Dear Mrs. Jordan My friend. Miss
Brown, of Philadelphia, naa arrived unex
pectedly, and will be with me Tuesday
evening. If your list of guests is not
ovorlarge already. I should be delighted
to bring hor with me when I accept your
kind invitation for that date. Your sin.
ceroly. CAROLYN DAGWELL."
Tho hostess will no doubf extend the
courtesy, but if acceptances have been
general and the rooms promise io be
filled it is her privilege to decline the re
quest and thore should be no ill feeling
over the matter.
Tour obligations connected with the In
vitation having been settled, the question
of what ..to wear next arises. A dancing
party presupposes evening drero for both
girls and men. Only for Summer dances
of the most Informal nature ls anything
else permitted for men, and then flannels
or yachting clothes are sometimes sub
stituted. "V In the r.Itv or tho nnhnrha nr- at-
try house evening dress Is obligators' upon 1
mill, xius means me ciaw-nammer
coat, tuxedo will not do. The troupers
match. Waistcoat, linen and necktie are
white, and white dress kid gloves are es
sential in Winter.
The dancing frock of a young frlrl. cven
in cold weather, is a filmy rather than , a
brilliant creation. All sorts of fine wash
materials, batiste, mallne, nets, chiffon,
organdie, etc., delicately trimmed with
lace, are preferable to Jewels. The ma
tron is privileged to wear geoa. The
young girl may -wear si string of pearls
or "a Jeweled heart "hunr on a flhe cold
THJ5 SUNDAY ..OREGOXTAN, PORTIAyD SEPTEMBER 2i, 1905.
built of electric blue serge in close, rough
weave. A military cape has the ends
fastened back with brass buttons and the?
tight-fitting sleeves are turned back with
a brass button in similar fashion at tho
One thing which promises to make the
Empire coat popular for children's wear
Is the ease with which it can be fashioned
by tho home dressmaker. The loose,
flowlnig lines do not require a tailored ap
pearance so essential in shaped coats.
Pressing, however, is an Important fac
tor even with the Empire Jacket, and a
tailor's method of using the iron produces
most satisfactory results. To press stltch
lngs lay tho iron down heavily in one
spot over a dampened cloth for a roomeKt.
Then lift it and put down in the next
spot, do not move the Iron back and
forth because it is apt to give a puckered
; ! h mm&
CQKXKCT rOUTKX TO DANCTXQ
chain, a ring or two. a bangle or a
The gown should be cut low at the neck
and have short sleeves, or at least give
this eeffct. A girl who has a scrawny
neck or unsightly forearms may screen
them with a filmy lace yoke and long
gloves. Dressed kid gloves are considered
effect. In pressing seams, open them and
wet thoroughly before applying the iron.
The same rule must be observed in regard
to lifting the heated iron, for it cannot
be run along the seam without giving it
a drawn appearance.
Most effective among children's Empire
models is a coat to tho knees in supple
broadcloth. A rounding bolero forms the
short yoke and square double capes that
extend across the back are cut off short
as they pass over the shoulder to produce
an epaulet effect. Wide box plaits flaring
at the bottom mark the Juncture of the
full skirt to the short yoke, and a double
row of stitching finishes the edges. The
lily-shaped elbow sleeves end in loose
cuffs with velvet straps, while tight-fit
ting cuffs that button on the outside seam
cover the arm from elbow to wrist.
Another Empire, coat has simple bands
of the material outlining the lower
edge of the square yoke and the elbow
sleeves, while velvet-covered buttons
adorn the ends of each band as well as
the corners of a short cape-collar.
As the Reason advances tho more
elaborate Emplro coats for children wnl
be completely lined with fur. But a
wrinkle Just now for tho utility coat la
to have rolling collar and cuffs built of
imitation fur cloth which shows all tho
pretty -markings and soft colorings of
"Heavy short Jackets show tho same
box-shaped front and back which has
characterized them for several years.
Collars In. contrasting colors to the shade
of the coat give novelty to the model
of 1905. A stunning little Jacket of
scarlot flannel Interlined with satin
wadding gained Its distinction from a
circular collar of white broadcloth
trimmed; simply with narrow gold braid.
Other coats are finished about the neck
with pique and crash collars In the same
tone as .the coat, embroidered in Jewel
work .of variegated hue. These aro
applied Jo the coat with velvet . pipings
which lend a charming contrast.
In the realm of children's millinery
for practical use. beavers and felts
show very simple blockings In delicate
the best form for dances, but a girl whose
hand3 perspire too freely may substitute
sik gloves. Dancing slippers for girls and
pumps for men are essential. No girl
would be considered well dressed If she
appeared on a dancing floor with high
"How am I to get there?" Is the naxt
vexed question for a girl. OnlyIn the
more exclusive circles of big cities is a
chaperone considered positively necessary.
At a small dance, particularly the Cin
derella danco which onds.at midnight,
the hostess Is considered" chaperone
enough for air her young guests.
If both mother and daughter receive
an Invitation to a dance, "then the mother
may accompany the" girl, greet the, host
ess, stay tor a short time, and then re
tire, leaving the girl In "the care of the
hostess. . if the mother Is not invited or
does not care to go, 'any older member of
the family or a maid may accompany the
girl to the scene of the festivities, and
call for her at a pre-arranged hour, to es
cort her home. No girl should ever trust
to the kind offices of a busy hostess or
some chance young man for this escort
When the Invitation list Includes a num
ber of young people who are mutual ac
quaintances in school and at dancing
classes, it Is allowable for a young man
to ask permission to ac as escort to a
young girl whom he knows has been In
vited. This is done either by calling
upon her, sending a note or even tele
phoning, and Is particularly common in
suburban life and in the smaller cities.
This invitation doe3 not involve provid
ing a ' carriage If the affair is Informal,
the house of the hostess Is near and the
weather .Is good. Neither Is It necessary
for the young man to send the girl the
flowers she will carry. Flowers play a
very small part .at dances, save when
tho danco Is given n honor of a debut
ante, who then carries one of the many
bouquets sent to her by admiring friends.
On reaching the house a servant will
bo In attendance so that the doorbell is
not rung. This servarit indicates the lo
cation of the dressing rooms to which
guesta go immediately without stopping
to .greet the hostess, who may be stand
ing Just Inside the drawing room or parlor
A maid. Is generally In attendance in the
room set aside for the girls, and she takes
the wraps, draws off the rubbers, or sub
stitutes slippers for shoes, and has always
at the disposal of guests pins, powder,
and other little toilet knickknacks. In
this room, will he found the programmes
which, aro used even at Informal dances.
If a girl has been escorted to the dance
by a young man he waits for her at the
appointed place at the head of the stairs.
He never goes dawn stairs without her.
Even a brother would not be guilty of
such rudeness to his sister.
The girl passes down stairs first and
enters the parlor to greet her hostess and
the other members of the receiving party,
with the young man. Just behind her. The
host and hostess and any. who may be re-
shades cf gray, tan and white. The
trlcorne shape is universally popular,
but to some children It is hldeously
unbecomlng and should be diligently
avoided. When it does suit a child's
face, however, the trlcorne Is extremelv
trim and requires only a binding and
'broad band or qu::; :n a dark shade
of velvet to render It suitable for school
Saucer-shaped hats aro decidedly in
vogue this Fall both In patent leather
and felt. The Jotter are lifted high at
the back of the head by a velvet ban
deau. A trig velvet bow at one side
of the crown forms the only trimming
on the upper part of the hat, though
occasionally a wreath of Autumn leaves
or loops of ribbon are laid at the base
of tho crown.
No matter what its fate In the fashions
of grown-ups. the large hat will alwaj-3
remain the most artistic for the child's
face. There is. no lovelier simple hat
than a large white felt with huge Alsa
tian bow of wide ribbon directly across
the front. One model trimmed in this
manner has the bow held at the center
by large braid rings and the hat Is
shaded to the face by a narrow facing
of velvet underneath the brim. Ribbon
streamers both In velvet and silk are
also seen on these large hats at the back.
Gentleman with Grievance This
auto breaks down every 10 minutes.
Conscientious Dealer What of it?
Gentleman with Grievance Tou said
there were none better!
Conscientious -Dealer There ain't.
celving with them offer their right hand
to each arrival with a word of greeting.
If the girl is accompanied with her moth
er, an elder sister or a chaperone. this
personage goes first, the girl second, and
the young man bringing up the rear. Once
past their hostess, guests find themselves
face to face with one of the most Import
ant duties of the evening filling out the
It the dance is given for a debutante
or an out-or-town girl, every young man
must ask her for a dance. If there is
one or more. sons in the host's family, a
girl cannot refuse the invitation of any of
them to dance unless her card .Is full" al
ready.' ; - ? .
A girl must use tact hn . declining the
i imitations of an undesirable young man.
f She must not say that her programme Is
1 full, and then before he leaves permit an
j other young man to wrl'e his name in
j one of the blank spaces. When asked for
a dance, she hands her programme to the
young man, with some simple phrase like.
"With pleasure," or "I .shall be glad to
dance with you." ? .
The girl Is always sought' i'or by her
partner, who goes to her directly the
music strikes up for the number. If he
does not appear, she has a perfect right
to expect an apology, and many girls
consider this so Inexcusable that they
promptly give - away any other dances
the young man may have on the card.
Young men who desire to be introduced
to girls ask for these introductions
through the hqst or some young man who
already knows the girl. As a rule a'guest
asks permission of the girl before intro
ducing the man. The host may or not
After greetings are exchanged the man
generally asks for a dance,, and after J1I3
imitation has heen either rterllnetl or n
cepted, he may say a few words and re
The supper dance is one which directly
precedes" the serving of refreshments, and
the young man who Is-fortunate enough
to secure this dance from his favorite
damsel has the privilege of escorting her
to supper. It is the .duty of the host or
hostess to see that each girl is escorted
to the dining-room. Girls should bear this
,ln mind and keep the face serene. A wor
ried look stamps' the girl as being un
able to hold her own '-with her more- for
tunate sisters, at even the most Informal
Before leaving the guest seeks out the
hostess and assures her of having passed
a pleasant evening. This I3 done before
donning the wraps.
A dancing party requires a call from
either a young man or a young girl.
No one is excused. A young man in
business may call In the evening or on
Sunday afternoons within a fortnight
after the dance. The girl, who Is not
encumbered by business affairs calls dur
ing the afternoon, generally on her host,
ess day at home. The business, girl who
has nothing but evenings to herself may
mall a calling card within the prescribed