EEE -SUNDAY OKEGONJjOfi FOETLAOT, OTXB 1X
1 - Saw?' 1 Ifc
Y THE first of Juno millinery fash
ions have been shaken and sifted
until the discriminating; shopper Is
able to decide quickly on the most desir
able modes. Unquestionably the very
email hat, tlp-tllted at a dangerously un
becoming angle, has been weighed and
found 'wanting. A few extremists cling
to It, but women of more refined tastes
ere going back to the larger shapes whioh
v typical of Summer time, and whioh
lend themselves so artistically to the full,
blown, blossoms of mid-Summer.
Hand-made hats show remarkable com
binations of straw, chiffon and laco in
their foundation, but home mlUinors find
that they can secure the befit results by
investing In the simple flat of a single
straw, which can bo bent into a score of
shapes. Or If extremely economical, they
can secure a Jaunty hat even more cheap
ly by buying a frame and covering It
with horsehair or straw, which can bo
bought In bolts.
The typical .Hat for Summor "wear comes
this year In a large varioty of straws
Tuscany, Leghorn, Milan, Neapolitan and
horsehair with perhaps the last two in
'greatest favor. Tho Neapolitan Is an ideal
straw In Its lightness and airy effect, and
at the same time It Is considerably loss
expensive than the fashionable horsehair.
Not only do these fiat hats come In black,
"white, natural and burnt-straw shades,
!but they are tinted to match all the pop
ular fabric colors of the season, various
shades of light and dark blue, violets and
lavendors Innumerable, rose tints from
the most delicato of pink to the vory
heart of American Beauty roses, while
reseda green has lost none of Its popu
larity. There is an equal laxity in shaping
flats to suit the face. Tho brim may
be turned up in the back and laid over
the crown In dents, or It may stand
up at right angles with the crown and
front brim for all the -world like a
backstop on a baseball field. Again,
the brim on either side is turned over
tbo crown until tho finished hat looks
like a submarine boat, or turned up on
one side until It takes on all the
jauntlncss of a musketeer's long
plumod hcadgoar. It makes little dif
ference whether the brim is flung up
on the right or the loft side, back or
front any point of tho compass will
'do, provided the faco benoath is chic
end girlish. '
It Is a great Summer for your real
Summer girl with her fluffy hair and t
hor dimples and a sad season for tho
tailored maid. "What is known as the
bowl sailor Is a modification of the
flat with a vory wide brim on the left
Side. This is turned up sharply to
tower above the little round crown,
and Is dented in just above the hair
almost like i a cup or bowL Here a
hole Is made in the frame to admit a
feather which comes rippling out from
the crown and falls over the hair on
the left side. The crown Is generally
encircled with a wreath of flowers In
contrasting color.
A notable example of this shape
shows a whito Milan straw with blue j
morgue roses and faded green foliage
around the crown, while the feather
shad.03 from white through blues,
which are reproduced In the flowers.
The poke, which requires above all
things youthful features and an Ir
reproachable complexion -beneath It, is
one of the quaintest conceits In which
the flat hat is bent. The brim Is
doubled over in tho back in the most
coquettish of flutlngs, and in the front
it is bent at the angle best suited to
the wearer's face and style of hair
dressing.
Both Panama and Leghorn flats are
twisted Into this shape, and a very
fetching example shows a trimming of
cherry blossoms with their dark,
glossy green leaves, and broad strings
of white moire ribbon. One of tho
most striking features of the season Is
the combination of ostrich plumes and
flowers in trimming. If tho crown of
the hat Is encircled with flowers, one
or more plumes will All in the flutlngs
of tho upturned brim In the back and
fall caressingly on the hair. On the
other hand. If feathery plumes build
up the crown and fall over the face,
then the upturned brim at tho back Is
filled In with a veritable flower gar
den. Undoubtedly, the striking contrasts
in floral garniture -which marked the
beginning of the millinery season are
gradually losing favor. For instance,
we had violets packed tightly among
circles of pink roses; lilacs snuggling
against camcllas. Far more effective
and better able to resist the action of
strong sunlight are the more delicato
combinations of white with morgue or
dead flowers, in particnlar faded blues
and lavenders and yellow. Some of
these roses shade Irresistibly from
blue to tan color, from pink to . a.
cloudy green, and these, lq combina
tion with white feathers, are used to
trim tho white flat.
In fact, with the advance of Sum
mer, the colored flat becomes an ex
pensive millinery proposition. The all
white or the all-black hat will retain
Its fresh look long after the pink, blue,
lavender or green frame has become
streaked and faded.
A most beautiful sample of midsum
mer millinery was a wblto Neapolitan,
turned up In tho back to show pleat
lngs, filled in with butterfly bows of
white liberty taffetas. Tho crown and
front brim were covered not heavily,
but In fashion, with a garland of deli
cate lavender pansles In several
shades, each petal tipped over so deli
cately with a silver tinsel, which sug
gested frosting or dew drops In the
early morning. Amid a garish display
of vivid-colored headgear, this hat
won out by reason of Its dainty sim
plicity. .
This is a good year for bringing out
tho Leghorn flat, which has been
"scorned, perhaps, for several seasons.
It can be renovated at the cleaners, or
a brisk scrubbing with tepid ammonia
water will restore Its freshness. For
a Leghorn flat which has already
done service, an imported model sug
gests a rather clever treatment. The
top of the Leghorn was hidden almost
entirely by a circular piece of black
silk, .scalloped and buttonholed
stitched around tho edges. On this was
laid a garland of magenta roses of
various sizes, and on the left, with his
beak buried In the heart of a great
rose, was a large white bird.
Another Leghorn had a crown com
pletely hidden by blue roses, above
which rested like a veil the most deli
cate of maiden-hair fern. Both of
these hats were perfectly flat, and de
pended on the trimming for their flare
and height, and not on any tilt of the
brim.
Still a third Leghorn had the brim
turned under, Instead of over, to give
almost a Tam o Shanter effect, and
these incurving flutlngs were filled
with Valenciennes lace, while the only
trimming on the top and to the left
was the head of a bluish owl, with an
enormous brown eye.
Both pompadour and shaded ribbon
are being used on the mid-Summer
hats in preference to the velvet bows
which marked the earlier millinery.
Generally a contrast Is found between
the ribbon and the flower. For in
stance, a delicate pompadour ribbon in
which blue prevails will be combined
with the most exquisite of pink rosis
or delicate lilacs are combined with the
pale pink-flowered ribbons. Among
tho new showing In artificial flowers
are some wonderfully realistic studies,
such as clematis, hydrangeas, daisies
of every imaginable size and color, and
many of the garden flowers never be
fore reproduced in artificial blossoms.
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
Some Dainty Dishes for the June Feast
THE return of young people from col
lege and the commencement soason to
the public schools both bring In their
train more or less entertaining. There
will be little dinners and luncheons for
both graduates and undergraduates, while
more informal evening functions will
characterize June evenings.
College students are not exactly opjeures,
but they havo a perfect passion for dishes
that aro rath or odd, ovon bizarre; and
the monu which appeals most strongly
to them wlH Include one or more dainties,
which, to quote a roal college girl, will
"keop them guessing." Especially do they
opprovo qucor combinations In sweets.
Here aro some novel mixtures which
might well be termed "Vacation Day
Dainties.'
Biscuit Chocso Sandwiches. Mix togeth
er thoroughly a quartor of a pound of
flour, a pinch of salt, a dust of cayenne,
four rounding tcaspoenfuls of Butter and
the same quantity of grated Parmesan,
cheese. When the Ingredients are thor
oughly mixed, moisten with sufficient
beaten egg to form rather a stiff paste
and roll it out to a medium thickness on
a floured board. Cut it Into rounds with
a small biscuit cutter, and after pricking
the top of the biscuits, bake them In a
quick ovon until they are a deep golden
color. Place them on a sieve to cool, and
before they are quite cool split them
through vory carefully with a thin knife.
Pound the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs
with sufficient butter to form a fairly
soft paste, then add two or three table- ,
spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, a 1
little celery salt and cayenne, and spread
the paste rather thickly on the split bis
cuits. Apple Sandwiches. Beat some freeh but
ter with, a Koodea. epooa until it Is quite,
white and creamy, then sweeten It with
some powdered sugar, and flavor It with
a llttlo powdered cinnamon. Cut some
slices of medium thickness from a loaf of
cream bread, spread them rather thickly
with the beaten butter. Then place some
tnin slices of sweet apple, front which the
peel has been removed, between these, and
form them Into sandwiches. Trim and
cut Into squares.
Chocolate Sandwiches. Cut pi am layer
or spongecake Into round or square .pieces
and eprcad them with the following mix
ture: Beat some fresh butter, as directed
In the recipe for apple sandwiches, and
when It Is quite white and creamy, sweet
en It. Add by degrees sufficient melted
chocolate to make tho butter quite brown.
Then, stir in a fex drops of essence of
vanilla and use as directed.
For luncheon dishes ramekins always
delight young girls. Here are two dainty
combinations:
Chicken Ramekins. Chop the white
meat of a raw fowl very, very fine. Add
a bit of soda the size of a pea to a. gill
of cream. Put this over the fire, and
as It heats, add the chopped chicken meat.
Cook for a minute, remove from the fire
and set aside to cool. "When cold, add the
beaten yolks of two eggs, season to taste,
then fold In the stiffened egg-whites. Tarn
Into buttered ramekins and bake In a hot
oven.
Chocolate Ramekins. Cook together In
a saucepan a tablcspoonful of butter and
two tablespoonfuls of flour. "When blended,
add six tablespoonfnls of hot milk. Stir
until thick and smooth, then pour upon
the yolks of three eggs that have been
beaten light with three tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar. Add ve tablespoonfuls
of grated chocolate and boat until cool.
Fold n the beaten whites of two eggs and
bake quickly in ramekin dishes set in a
pan or boiling water Servo at once with
whipped cream on top of each.
The college girl's affection for chocolate
does not .end ttlttl ctfjuaels, sJoAC
likes It In almost any combination. Here
aro some chocolate cream fritters which
are sure to find favor. Sift a cup of flour
and mix with a tiny pinch of salt, a ta
blcspoonful of sugar and a rounding tea
spoonful of baking powder. Beat the
yolk of one egg and half a cupful of milk
together. Stir these gradually into the
flour and fold In at the last the stiffly
beaten white of the egg. The batter
should be thick enough to" cover com
pletely with chocolate cream filling made
as follows: Mix a quarter of a cup of
sifted flour, half a cup of sugar and a
tiny pinch of salt, half an ounce or
square of grated chocolate and then add
gradually a cupful of boiling hot milk.
Cook this mixture with a double boiler
for 15 minutes, and stir constantly until
it thickens; Flavor with vanilla. Serve
with foamy sauco or & fruit sauce made
as follows:
Fruit sauce. One quarter of a cup of
raisins, stemmed and stoned, the same
quantity of finely chopped citron,
blanched almonds and sugar. Stir these
into a cup of water and heat slowly to
the boiling point. Then add a teaspoonful
of cornstarch dissolved in a llttlo cold
water, and cook for five minutes. Flavor
this with vanilla and serve both fritters
and sauce very hot. ,
Just now there is a decided fad for
Mocha or coffee flavoring. Here is an
English sweet which Is strictly up to
date. Soak three-quarters of an ounce of
gelatine In & gill of cold coffee for several
hours before It win be required,' and cover
it up so that the flavor may not evap
orate. Make a pint of very strong cof
fee and pour it boiling over tfie mixed
gelatine until It is all quite dissolved.
Sweeten to taste and turn into a wet
border mold to set. When turned out. fill
the hole with stiffly whipped cream, which:
may be sweetened or not, according to
taste.
Plain ice cream is distinctly out of date.
Popular, faacy, demands tfaaj It fe WCVjKl
with some sort of hot sauce. A good foun
dation for this mixture Is plain vanilla
Ice cream made as follows: Heat one
quart of new .milk with one pound of
granulated sugar until the sugar Is dis
solved. When It has cooled thoroughly,
add a quart of whipped cream and vanilla
to taste. Tho following aro some delicious
hot sauces to serve with the cream:
Chocolate Sauce. One-quarter of a cake
of unsweetened chocolate cut up flno and
covered with hot water. Add butter the
size of & walnut, three-quarters of a
pound of sugar, and cook until a rich
syrup Is formed. This Is sufficient to
pour over the Ice cream served in six
small glass sherbet cups.
Maple Sauce. Dissolve maplo sugar In
Just enough water to keep It from burn
ing. When clear, but not In the least
waxy, add chopped walnuts and pour over
tho lco cream, serving at once. Another
way is to bring pure maplo syrup to a
boll and pour It over the individual por
tions of Ice cream. Then heap on the top
some stiffly whipped cream, sweetened
and dusted with just a little cinnamon or
nutmeg.
A delicious hot strawberry sauce Is made
by mashing a pint of strawberries and
bringing them to a boll with a cup of
sugar, until a rich, thick syrup is formed.
If a clear sauce Is desired, the strawber
ries may be rubbed through a fine sieve
or coarse cheesecloth before boiling with
the sugar.
Tbo Virtuoso.
Juflge-
He ltd off with the left and nude a duh
At Chopin's secrsrae. opus twenty-three:
la A (ill) minor, an 'tw bra-re to eee
Him tackle UrtVm Hungarian gwilfch.
The grand pluo almost treat to raub
When Warner numbers follow fat sad
free.
The audience heard the wtlrd casc-phaay,
And. silent, mourned the leu of hard-woa
cash.
But sow the artist makes a fresh assault
Boldly ce the puast instrument.
And. free frem, clstaeldsm's hidebound lava
He potxads the willlar keys with (rot a halt.
It is "Bedel!. and the air Is rest
S-WusJef-r, its! tJ
Pleasant Porch Work for Vacation Months
WHATEVER outings a girl may
plan for the warm weather and
vacation months, sho thoroughly ex
pects that the fancy needlework, so
neglected during Winter's social rush,
will fill a goodly part of her time.
The greater portion of her Summer's
fancy work in this' year of 1905 will
undoubtedly be articles to adorn her
own apparel, for every accessory of
feminine attire has somewhere about
it a bit of hand embroidery.
How often in ransacking old trunks
and bundles of laces has boo come
across strips of yellowed muslin, care
fully embroidered in. velvet work! She
has marveled at her grandmother's pa-
tieuce and wonderful exactness; yet
now she herself is engrossed in tho
self -sain o delicate stltchery with per
haps more elaboration and Intricacy of
design. Collar and dickies for her
neck, puffs and half sleeves for her
arms, belts for her waist, straps for her
shoulders and ruffles for her petticoats
all these, and more, too, coma in for
their share of the fashionable broderie
Anglais.
Aside from Jthese necessities as she
considers them scarcely & shopping
tour passes that she does not pick up
some bit of fancy work to be fash
ioned for a future birthday gift or the
ever-to-be remembered Chrlatawstidev
and there are no end of varieties from
which she can choose.
Most effective aaeng the. new em
broideries for bureau scarfs and table
covers Is Bulgarian work. Coarse linen
or crash la stamped with conventional
ized pansles and spatulate shaped
leaves, among whlch are scattered
discs as large as a finger nail. These
esjC J tV0. la- clo em
broidery In rich shades of red and blue,
podcelain and baby blue or apple and
Nile green. The edges are finished In
buttonhole scallops.
Especially desirable for porch work
Is Hardanger embroidery, done In the
lightest shade of green or pink or blue.
This work Is less taxing for warm
weather than any other form of em
broidery, as the. designs are geometri
cal and the scrim on which they are
stamped supplies an accurate guide to
the eye In its square open mesh. The
edges of the articles are buttonholed
In tooth-shape and the scrim comes
stamped In exact shape and size for
any and all boudoir fittings.
Tho most popular fancy work of the
year, however. Is Louis ribbon em
broidery, and for the nonce It has quite
supplanted silk floss embroidery. The
girl -who has not already learned how
to fashion it should not fall to devote
some of her leisure hours to acquiring
the art. Picture frames, pin-cushions,
veil-rolls, handkerchief boxes and bags
are each decorated with aorao delicate
design of primroses or Empire garlands
done in pastel blues or greens and
browns, or pinks and blues and greens.
Big articles such as pillow covers,
table squares, etc, show larger .de
signs of orchids or conventionalized
poppica, Crinkly split silk, two or
three Inches in width. Is employed In
effecting these large patterns, but with
the same expresslbly lovely blending
of colors as in the finer applique.
The present fad of French matrons
for filling In odd moments Is tapestry
embroidery. Charming sylvan scenes
are stamped in colors on very coarse
tarlatan. The tarlatan Is securely fast
ened, to linen, silk or tapestry cloth,
and after the pattern has been darned
Into the material, the coarse mesh of-
Sht tjarlataa pulled, out thuaa py4
thread. American women are just tak
ing this up.
One of the daintiest receptacles for
holding these linens and Bilks is a box
covered with pompadour ribbon. Three
oblong pieces of cardboard eight or ten
inches In length show a covering of.
pretty flavored ribbon on the outside
with a plain harmonizing silk on the
inside. The four lower edges are
joined by narrow satin ribbon, leaving
the ends of the box without any cover.
Filling in each of these spaces is a
sort of bag built from, a gathering of
pompadour ribbon and a. gathering of
the lining silk. These are finished with
a half-inch heading and serve as pock
ets in which silk and needles may be
'deposited so that the box proper is
left free for stamped linens.
A Young Musician.
Wpplncott's.
I love to turn the stool around.
As high as high can be;.
It makes a screeching, shivery sound:
And while it's -whirling;, twirling round
I jump oa top. 'cause then, you see.
I set a ride for nothing-.
I wish there were na keys at all
Away down In the bass;
I loVe to let my fingers sprawl
Where sJl the notes are wee and small.
And. -while, the teacher makes a face.
Just play them twlnkly-wlnkly.
The teacher always will explain:
I never listen, 'cause
I've such a lilmble little brain -I
can't help seeing what Is plain;
And so I nod and never pause
TJntll. from top to bottom,
a.
I've nodded every black and whitt
And all the keys there are;
And "whea I have the number right -
I give the-teacher each a- fright
Her thoughts go Wandering- off sa -far-Si:
sfcotttbtr, "Uty.ri"