EEE -SUNDAY OKEGONJjOfi FOETLAOT, OTXB 1X 1 - Saw?' 1 Ifc Y THE first of Juno millinery fash ions have been shaken and sifted until the discriminating; shopper Is able to decide quickly on the most desir able modes. Unquestionably the very email hat, tlp-tllted at a dangerously un becoming angle, has been weighed and found 'wanting. A few extremists cling to It, but women of more refined tastes ere going back to the larger shapes whioh v typical of Summer time, and whioh lend themselves so artistically to the full, blown, blossoms of mid-Summer. Hand-made hats show remarkable com binations of straw, chiffon and laco in their foundation, but home mlUinors find that they can secure the befit results by investing In the simple flat of a single straw, which can bo bent into a score of shapes. Or If extremely economical, they can secure a Jaunty hat even more cheap ly by buying a frame and covering It with horsehair or straw, which can bo bought In bolts. The typical .Hat for Summor "wear comes this year In a large varioty of straws Tuscany, Leghorn, Milan, Neapolitan and horsehair with perhaps the last two in 'greatest favor. Tho Neapolitan Is an ideal straw In Its lightness and airy effect, and at the same time It Is considerably loss expensive than the fashionable horsehair. Not only do these fiat hats come In black, "white, natural and burnt-straw shades, !but they are tinted to match all the pop ular fabric colors of the season, various shades of light and dark blue, violets and lavendors Innumerable, rose tints from the most delicato of pink to the vory heart of American Beauty roses, while reseda green has lost none of Its popu larity. There is an equal laxity in shaping flats to suit the face. Tho brim may be turned up in the back and laid over the crown In dents, or It may stand up at right angles with the crown and front brim for all the -world like a backstop on a baseball field. Again, the brim on either side is turned over tbo crown until tho finished hat looks like a submarine boat, or turned up on one side until It takes on all the jauntlncss of a musketeer's long plumod hcadgoar. It makes little dif ference whether the brim is flung up on the right or the loft side, back or front any point of tho compass will 'do, provided the faco benoath is chic end girlish. ' It Is a great Summer for your real Summer girl with her fluffy hair and t hor dimples and a sad season for tho tailored maid. "What is known as the bowl sailor Is a modification of the flat with a vory wide brim on the left Side. This is turned up sharply to tower above the little round crown, and Is dented in just above the hair almost like i a cup or bowL Here a hole Is made in the frame to admit a feather which comes rippling out from the crown and falls over the hair on the left side. The crown Is generally encircled with a wreath of flowers In contrasting color. A notable example of this shape shows a whito Milan straw with blue j morgue roses and faded green foliage around the crown, while the feather shad.03 from white through blues, which are reproduced In the flowers. The poke, which requires above all things youthful features and an Ir reproachable complexion -beneath It, is one of the quaintest conceits In which the flat hat is bent. The brim Is doubled over in tho back in the most coquettish of flutlngs, and in the front it is bent at the angle best suited to the wearer's face and style of hair dressing. Both Panama and Leghorn flats are twisted Into this shape, and a very fetching example shows a trimming of cherry blossoms with their dark, glossy green leaves, and broad strings of white moire ribbon. One of tho most striking features of the season Is the combination of ostrich plumes and flowers in trimming. If tho crown of the hat Is encircled with flowers, one or more plumes will All in the flutlngs of tho upturned brim In the back and fall caressingly on the hair. On the other hand. If feathery plumes build up the crown and fall over the face, then the upturned brim at tho back Is filled In with a veritable flower gar den. Undoubtedly, the striking contrasts in floral garniture -which marked the beginning of the millinery season are gradually losing favor. For instance, we had violets packed tightly among circles of pink roses; lilacs snuggling against camcllas. Far more effective and better able to resist the action of strong sunlight are the more delicato combinations of white with morgue or dead flowers, in particnlar faded blues and lavenders and yellow. Some of these roses shade Irresistibly from blue to tan color, from pink to . a. cloudy green, and these, lq combina tion with white feathers, are used to trim tho white flat. In fact, with the advance of Sum mer, the colored flat becomes an ex pensive millinery proposition. The all white or the all-black hat will retain Its fresh look long after the pink, blue, lavender or green frame has become streaked and faded. A most beautiful sample of midsum mer millinery was a wblto Neapolitan, turned up In tho back to show pleat lngs, filled in with butterfly bows of white liberty taffetas. Tho crown and front brim were covered not heavily, but In fashion, with a garland of deli cate lavender pansles In several shades, each petal tipped over so deli cately with a silver tinsel, which sug gested frosting or dew drops In the early morning. Amid a garish display of vivid-colored headgear, this hat won out by reason of Its dainty sim plicity. . This is a good year for bringing out tho Leghorn flat, which has been "scorned, perhaps, for several seasons. It can be renovated at the cleaners, or a brisk scrubbing with tepid ammonia water will restore Its freshness. For a Leghorn flat which has already done service, an imported model sug gests a rather clever treatment. The top of the Leghorn was hidden almost entirely by a circular piece of black silk, .scalloped and buttonholed stitched around tho edges. On this was laid a garland of magenta roses of various sizes, and on the left, with his beak buried In the heart of a great rose, was a large white bird. Another Leghorn had a crown com pletely hidden by blue roses, above which rested like a veil the most deli cate of maiden-hair fern. Both of these hats were perfectly flat, and de pended on the trimming for their flare and height, and not on any tilt of the brim. Still a third Leghorn had the brim turned under, Instead of over, to give almost a Tam o Shanter effect, and these incurving flutlngs were filled with Valenciennes lace, while the only trimming on the top and to the left was the head of a bluish owl, with an enormous brown eye. Both pompadour and shaded ribbon are being used on the mid-Summer hats in preference to the velvet bows which marked the earlier millinery. Generally a contrast Is found between the ribbon and the flower. For in stance, a delicate pompadour ribbon in which blue prevails will be combined with the most exquisite of pink rosis or delicate lilacs are combined with the pale pink-flowered ribbons. Among tho new showing In artificial flowers are some wonderfully realistic studies, such as clematis, hydrangeas, daisies of every imaginable size and color, and many of the garden flowers never be fore reproduced in artificial blossoms. KATHERINE ANDERSON. Some Dainty Dishes for the June Feast THE return of young people from col lege and the commencement soason to the public schools both bring In their train more or less entertaining. There will be little dinners and luncheons for both graduates and undergraduates, while more informal evening functions will characterize June evenings. College students are not exactly opjeures, but they havo a perfect passion for dishes that aro rath or odd, ovon bizarre; and the monu which appeals most strongly to them wlH Include one or more dainties, which, to quote a roal college girl, will "keop them guessing." Especially do they opprovo qucor combinations In sweets. Here aro some novel mixtures which might well be termed "Vacation Day Dainties.' Biscuit Chocso Sandwiches. Mix togeth er thoroughly a quartor of a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a dust of cayenne, four rounding tcaspoenfuls of Butter and the same quantity of grated Parmesan, cheese. When the Ingredients are thor oughly mixed, moisten with sufficient beaten egg to form rather a stiff paste and roll it out to a medium thickness on a floured board. Cut it Into rounds with a small biscuit cutter, and after pricking the top of the biscuits, bake them In a quick ovon until they are a deep golden color. Place them on a sieve to cool, and before they are quite cool split them through vory carefully with a thin knife. Pound the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with sufficient butter to form a fairly soft paste, then add two or three table- , spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, a 1 little celery salt and cayenne, and spread the paste rather thickly on the split bis cuits. Apple Sandwiches. Beat some freeh but ter with, a Koodea. epooa until it Is quite, white and creamy, then sweeten It with some powdered sugar, and flavor It with a llttlo powdered cinnamon. Cut some slices of medium thickness from a loaf of cream bread, spread them rather thickly with the beaten butter. Then place some tnin slices of sweet apple, front which the peel has been removed, between these, and form them Into sandwiches. Trim and cut Into squares. Chocolate Sandwiches. Cut pi am layer or spongecake Into round or square .pieces and eprcad them with the following mix ture: Beat some fresh butter, as directed In the recipe for apple sandwiches, and when It Is quite white and creamy, sweet en It. Add by degrees sufficient melted chocolate to make tho butter quite brown. Then, stir in a fex drops of essence of vanilla and use as directed. For luncheon dishes ramekins always delight young girls. Here are two dainty combinations: Chicken Ramekins. Chop the white meat of a raw fowl very, very fine. Add a bit of soda the size of a pea to a. gill of cream. Put this over the fire, and as It heats, add the chopped chicken meat. Cook for a minute, remove from the fire and set aside to cool. "When cold, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, season to taste, then fold In the stiffened egg-whites. Tarn Into buttered ramekins and bake In a hot oven. Chocolate Ramekins. Cook together In a saucepan a tablcspoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. "When blended, add six tablespoonfnls of hot milk. Stir until thick and smooth, then pour upon the yolks of three eggs that have been beaten light with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Add ve tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate and boat until cool. Fold n the beaten whites of two eggs and bake quickly in ramekin dishes set in a pan or boiling water Servo at once with whipped cream on top of each. The college girl's affection for chocolate does not .end ttlttl ctfjuaels, sJoAC likes It In almost any combination. Here aro some chocolate cream fritters which are sure to find favor. Sift a cup of flour and mix with a tiny pinch of salt, a ta blcspoonful of sugar and a rounding tea spoonful of baking powder. Beat the yolk of one egg and half a cupful of milk together. Stir these gradually into the flour and fold In at the last the stiffly beaten white of the egg. The batter should be thick enough to" cover com pletely with chocolate cream filling made as follows: Mix a quarter of a cup of sifted flour, half a cup of sugar and a tiny pinch of salt, half an ounce or square of grated chocolate and then add gradually a cupful of boiling hot milk. Cook this mixture with a double boiler for 15 minutes, and stir constantly until it thickens; Flavor with vanilla. Serve with foamy sauco or & fruit sauce made as follows: Fruit sauce. One quarter of a cup of raisins, stemmed and stoned, the same quantity of finely chopped citron, blanched almonds and sugar. Stir these into a cup of water and heat slowly to the boiling point. Then add a teaspoonful of cornstarch dissolved in a llttlo cold water, and cook for five minutes. Flavor this with vanilla and serve both fritters and sauce very hot. , Just now there is a decided fad for Mocha or coffee flavoring. Here is an English sweet which Is strictly up to date. Soak three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine In & gill of cold coffee for several hours before It win be required,' and cover it up so that the flavor may not evap orate. Make a pint of very strong cof fee and pour it boiling over tfie mixed gelatine until It is all quite dissolved. Sweeten to taste and turn into a wet border mold to set. When turned out. fill the hole with stiffly whipped cream, which: may be sweetened or not, according to taste. Plain ice cream is distinctly out of date. Popular, faacy, demands tfaaj It fe WCVjKl with some sort of hot sauce. A good foun dation for this mixture Is plain vanilla Ice cream made as follows: Heat one quart of new .milk with one pound of granulated sugar until the sugar Is dis solved. When It has cooled thoroughly, add a quart of whipped cream and vanilla to taste. Tho following aro some delicious hot sauces to serve with the cream: Chocolate Sauce. One-quarter of a cake of unsweetened chocolate cut up flno and covered with hot water. Add butter the size of & walnut, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and cook until a rich syrup Is formed. This Is sufficient to pour over the Ice cream served in six small glass sherbet cups. Maple Sauce. Dissolve maplo sugar In Just enough water to keep It from burn ing. When clear, but not In the least waxy, add chopped walnuts and pour over tho lco cream, serving at once. Another way is to bring pure maplo syrup to a boll and pour It over the individual por tions of Ice cream. Then heap on the top some stiffly whipped cream, sweetened and dusted with just a little cinnamon or nutmeg. A delicious hot strawberry sauce Is made by mashing a pint of strawberries and bringing them to a boll with a cup of sugar, until a rich, thick syrup is formed. If a clear sauce Is desired, the strawber ries may be rubbed through a fine sieve or coarse cheesecloth before boiling with the sugar. Tbo Virtuoso. Juflge- He ltd off with the left and nude a duh At Chopin's secrsrae. opus twenty-three: la A (ill) minor, an 'tw bra-re to eee Him tackle UrtVm Hungarian gwilfch. The grand pluo almost treat to raub When Warner numbers follow fat sad free. The audience heard the wtlrd casc-phaay, And. silent, mourned the leu of hard-woa cash. But sow the artist makes a fresh assault Boldly ce the puast instrument. And. free frem, clstaeldsm's hidebound lava He potxads the willlar keys with (rot a halt. It is "Bedel!. and the air Is rest S-WusJef-r, its! tJ Pleasant Porch Work for Vacation Months WHATEVER outings a girl may plan for the warm weather and vacation months, sho thoroughly ex pects that the fancy needlework, so neglected during Winter's social rush, will fill a goodly part of her time. The greater portion of her Summer's fancy work in this' year of 1905 will undoubtedly be articles to adorn her own apparel, for every accessory of feminine attire has somewhere about it a bit of hand embroidery. How often in ransacking old trunks and bundles of laces has boo come across strips of yellowed muslin, care fully embroidered in. velvet work! She has marveled at her grandmother's pa- tieuce and wonderful exactness; yet now she herself is engrossed in tho self -sain o delicate stltchery with per haps more elaboration and Intricacy of design. Collar and dickies for her neck, puffs and half sleeves for her arms, belts for her waist, straps for her shoulders and ruffles for her petticoats all these, and more, too, coma in for their share of the fashionable broderie Anglais. Aside from Jthese necessities as she considers them scarcely & shopping tour passes that she does not pick up some bit of fancy work to be fash ioned for a future birthday gift or the ever-to-be remembered Chrlatawstidev and there are no end of varieties from which she can choose. Most effective aaeng the. new em broideries for bureau scarfs and table covers Is Bulgarian work. Coarse linen or crash la stamped with conventional ized pansles and spatulate shaped leaves, among whlch are scattered discs as large as a finger nail. These esjC J tV0. la- clo em broidery In rich shades of red and blue, podcelain and baby blue or apple and Nile green. The edges are finished In buttonhole scallops. Especially desirable for porch work Is Hardanger embroidery, done In the lightest shade of green or pink or blue. This work Is less taxing for warm weather than any other form of em broidery, as the. designs are geometri cal and the scrim on which they are stamped supplies an accurate guide to the eye In its square open mesh. The edges of the articles are buttonholed In tooth-shape and the scrim comes stamped In exact shape and size for any and all boudoir fittings. Tho most popular fancy work of the year, however. Is Louis ribbon em broidery, and for the nonce It has quite supplanted silk floss embroidery. The girl -who has not already learned how to fashion it should not fall to devote some of her leisure hours to acquiring the art. Picture frames, pin-cushions, veil-rolls, handkerchief boxes and bags are each decorated with aorao delicate design of primroses or Empire garlands done in pastel blues or greens and browns, or pinks and blues and greens. Big articles such as pillow covers, table squares, etc, show larger .de signs of orchids or conventionalized poppica, Crinkly split silk, two or three Inches in width. Is employed In effecting these large patterns, but with the same expresslbly lovely blending of colors as in the finer applique. The present fad of French matrons for filling In odd moments Is tapestry embroidery. Charming sylvan scenes are stamped in colors on very coarse tarlatan. The tarlatan Is securely fast ened, to linen, silk or tapestry cloth, and after the pattern has been darned Into the material, the coarse mesh of- Sht tjarlataa pulled, out thuaa py4 thread. American women are just tak ing this up. One of the daintiest receptacles for holding these linens and Bilks is a box covered with pompadour ribbon. Three oblong pieces of cardboard eight or ten inches In length show a covering of. pretty flavored ribbon on the outside with a plain harmonizing silk on the inside. The four lower edges are joined by narrow satin ribbon, leaving the ends of the box without any cover. Filling in each of these spaces is a sort of bag built from, a gathering of pompadour ribbon and a. gathering of the lining silk. These are finished with a half-inch heading and serve as pock ets in which silk and needles may be 'deposited so that the box proper is left free for stamped linens. A Young Musician. Wpplncott's. I love to turn the stool around. As high as high can be;. It makes a screeching, shivery sound: And while it's -whirling;, twirling round I jump oa top. 'cause then, you see. I set a ride for nothing-. I wish there were na keys at all Away down In the bass; I loVe to let my fingers sprawl Where sJl the notes are wee and small. And. -while, the teacher makes a face. Just play them twlnkly-wlnkly. The teacher always will explain: I never listen, 'cause I've such a lilmble little brain -I can't help seeing what Is plain; And so I nod and never pause TJntll. from top to bottom, a. I've nodded every black and whitt And all the keys there are; And "whea I have the number right - I give the-teacher each a- fright Her thoughts go Wandering- off sa -far-Si: sfcotttbtr, "Uty.ri"