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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 22, 1905)
THE STINT) AY OKEGOlttAS', POBTLAND, ACTAHY 22, 130, 33 1 FANCY-DRESS RULES FOR MID-WINTER BALLS zsx?-": i - WHO. In all the world, at come age or other, has not loved the. glamor of the masquerade? The time for gentfc mumming is here, though the fancy dress season may be said to have opened with Twelfth Night. But the balls which n il! be given by the smart -world to cele brate the birthday of the Saint of Hearts and Arrows will display more costumes than have yet been seen. However, these beautiful dreeses, the majority of which eniphasize the courtly trend of the day, will not be confined to valentine parties. They will be worn at mid-Lent, when taking the cue from Paris, the fashion able world on this side of the water rests a moment from devotions. They will also be seen at the Southern carnivals that precede and follow Lent and at the pri vate balls, given here and there, all "Win ter long. J Tho fashionable world has evidently tired of Follies and Clowns and Fairies and common folk. The fancy costumes being turned out by the best people depict the grandeurs of patch and powder, of stiff satins and miniature bracelets and ed heels. The courts of all the Louis are superbly represented, and some ISth cntury costumes show the cock hat and !chu of George and Martha Washington. Characters from old English portraits ire also immensely in favor, and these ilsplay with a faithful nicety all the little points of the toilet Romney and Reynolds and other great painters made famous. The costumes reproduce, as far as possi ble, the textures as well as the graceful Hies of this period, and with simple white -nusllns and flowered chintzes are seen lowdered wigs elaborately dressed over ushlons with roses and feathers. The beauties of the old English painters evidently had simple tastes. More than me breaker of hearts known to pos terity is gowned in the simplest book muslin, with only the splendors of her coiffure, or perhaps a colored satin sasb, to make her fine. A trio of 18th century costumes delight fully reproduce old portrait effects, with such changes as are necessary for modern types. A Romney lady Is represented by a gown of white India muslin trimmed only upon the bodice with a.band of gilt em broidery. The bodice is in surplice, clos- IUC U1U ttUUUk UJC JJ04C UCWj arms and waist is worn a scarf four yards long, of white tissue hemmed with gilt. The simply hemmed skirt is gathered and lies upon the floor all around. "With this costume a Marie Antoinette coiffure is designed. The wig shows a pompadour over a cushion, side puffs and a long curl that falls upon the neck. It Is ornamented with a string of pearl beads, a fan of muslin adjusted like a comb and three pink feathers. No other ornaments are worn. For a blonde of good figure and handsome face this cos turae, which Is by far the most charming of the three, will be found irresistible. Next In point of beauty is a Reynolds gown, whose elaborate treatment makes It suited to a wider range of types. Ma terials in this are gray and gold brocade and plain gray satin. The brocade forms the tight bodice and train, the two open Sng over a pointed vest and petticoat of the plain satin. The fichu scarf and un ierslceves are of white muslin, as well as the huge mob cap, which Is trimmed with a band and wired bow of black velvet ribbon. Loops of the same, held by a paste buckle, fasten the fichu at the bust, above six splendid paste buttons, which PORTRAIT BEACHES REPRODUCED IN TXSCX DRESS. ornament the body. Other points are a looped velvet bracelet and a Dlrectoire cane painted gray. The third lady wears white silk mousse line with deckings of great pink roses and black velvet ribbon. Her costume with Its robe-fronted skirt and flchu draped waist, has quite a modern air. The puffed elbow sleeves, which are led with the ribbons, are of the sort now fashionable. A wide wreath of roses smaller than those which trim the gown Is worn In the hair, and two velvet bracelets one held by a miniature brooch are the only other ornaments. Some eccentric Ideas shown among the fancy-dress costumes copy playing cards with a telling oddity. These are done In plain colored calicoes, for the face cards, with white sheeting and black and red calico for the spotted ones. The card Idea Is thought most amusing for fancy cos- given the guests were arrayed as queens of hearts, jacks of spades and what not- But if big folk enjoy the masquerade, what Is it to the little ones! Children are in their element when playing at being tumes, and at a bridge party recently somebody else, and the quaint grown-up Ideas now adopted for their costume par ties make this counterfeiting even, more delightful. Red Riding Hoods and- Jaefc Homers and Little Boy Blues ar set, aside far stately. long-skirted ladies and booted and spurred gallants. Grand dames- of the courts of the Louis appear here. too. and the little Mantespans; and Actoinces arc mated with courtier cos- ' tumes which make the small boys quits as splendid. One dress for a girt of 6 re produced exactly the hooped and statety Httlo Infaafci of Velasquex. Another cos tumc for tho same age represents- a littl lady of tho court of Louis XV. This love ly little gown is like what Madame de Pompadour herself might have worn at this age. for the famous mingling or this lady's delicate colors are here seen. Tlw pale, pinlc satin skirt, which is stretched over a vast hoop, has a raised embroidery of pink roses, and-leaves. The jacket ot plain rati a has- sleeve flounces oC deep lace, and opens over a soft vest of old fashioned striped silk In pea green. A small trtcorne hat of whito velvet and feathers is et jauntily at one side of the curled and powdered head, and a tiny painted fan and cane arc carried. . Such a dainty deity ot powder, yon are totd, "should be matched by a Louis XV beau, also with a powdered wig tied with a black bow. His coat should be of green satin embroidered in an elaborate design ot pink, roses, and he should wear pink satin, knee breeches, lace- sleeve ruf fles and buckle shoes. A gold eyeglass and" enameled snuffbox complete Ihe get- up of this charming gallant." But contrast Is the spice of life, and so It seems a. piquant point to match the little lady of courts- with a small Napo leon. For this costume tho long gray- army coat and top boots and cocked hat of the battlefield are mora effective than the grand dress afterward adopted by the Little Corporal. The most ordinary pic ture of Napoleon in his soldier uniform. will Jtrive correct ideas for this character. which may be cleverly helped out by well-v- known mannerisms the studied way the great .Napoleon neui mmseix tor nis pic ture, the solemn gravity of countenance. the lock of thin hair that seems almost pasted to the forehead. And if nothing, else is accomplished, the Little Corporal of the masquerade will delight in bis mumming. For the character ot the Little Corporal these are the things required: Overcoat of gray cloth, with skirts put on at hips, and incroyable reveres. White cloth waistcoat topped by one in red. the two. cut away in the old V fashion. Top bootsj of patent leather, with white kid band aj ton. Cocked hat of black felt and ribbo: fob with green seals. A barnyard masquerade is a frolic chlr drcn much, delight in, and the .best -part of the scheme is that tho costumes can be made of paper. Tha upper part of the body alone imitates the feathered one, a close cap with a bird nose covering the head and face. "Where stiffness is re quired, the paper is doubled several times, with an occasional quill Introduced for reality. Colored tissue in a heavy quality is required, in rich reds, blues, greens, grays and blacks. To make the wings, which are as important a feature as the head, a frame is first constructed of wired muslin to fit over the arms, which are held with elbows bent- These are afterward trimmed with paper cut in quill form and sewed on in lapping rows. A. barnyard party can be made a most tunny affair, for the characters include everything from a gobbler to a goosey gander. So an occasional quack may come In. a "gobble, gobble," and a dis creet crow. When it is time to unmask the herald In charge tears away the disguise, calling? the name of the child at the, same instant. This Is a glorious moment for the young mummers. MART DEAN. THE BEAUTY QUEST CORRECTIVE EXERCISES Special Work for Women With Uneven Hips, One High Shoulder, Etc. PERHAPS you are startled some day by the measurements of your dress maker. She announces, "Skirt 40 inches left side, 41 right." You ask how that can be. Surely sho has used her tape line carelessly. You arc not deformed. She measures again with the same re sult "That is nothing remarkable, ma dam; nine ladles out ot every ten have a difference in their hips or their shoulders. 1 can easily hide the fact." So, If she Is skillful, she goes to work to make up for the missing Inch. She builds a little pad, which you arc to wear In the skirt or tuck away under the cor set. This raises the low left hip and gives the appearance of a symmetrical figure. But all the time the fact Is just the same: you are not symmetrical. Do you know the reason? Do not be shocXed. for the word curvature Is not so serious as it Is commonly supposed to be. But the fact Is. any doctor will tell you so, you have a curvature of the spine. Now It Is a common thing to call a hump back a curvature, and to suppose that this is the real and only meaning of the word as applied to backs. This is not true. Technically the word Is applied to any crookedness of the spine, even in the slightest deviation from the straight line. A large proportion ot the people in , the world have this defect and go through life and are never called de formed. However, their figure Is not what It should bo nor what It might bo made with proper gymnastic treatment. What is the use of being bothered with pads and with skirts that hang badly and with thinking up devices in dress trim mings to hldo the fault of one-sldedness? Why not undertake to correct the fault? Not that a slight curvature Is anything to be alarmed at. It will not cripple you or shorten tho days of your life, but those days will be plcasanter without It. Your gait cannot possibly be graceful if your hips arc uneven. Certain annoy ances, such as neuralgia in the side. In tercostal neuralgia, are said to arise from if. Your appearance is always handi capped and often your comfort. If you visit the most modern gymna siums in our large cities you will find any number ot patient being treated for this very common defect. Each one Is nven special exercises according to her nerds and strength. The basis of all the Wsons given to straighten a spine Is trtchlng. If the spine is thoroughly stretched It straightens ot Itself. But before you begin gymnastic treat ment, learn how to stand. Unless you remember this every hour of the day you will not gain benefit from all the exer libe In the world. It Is probable that you brought about the high hip and conse quent high shoulder from standing "on one leg" when you were a schoolgirl. You formed a habit of humping up one hip. al ways the same hip, until you came to be a fixture in that raised position. To-i must warn yourself constantly that this habit i to be overcome. A well-equipped Swedish gymnasium of fers a good Idea of apparatus adapted to the- needs of its patients -or pupils: but ou can help yourself, perhaps cure your self, by home treatments. Tou must be provided, however, with a pair of rings suspended frbm the celling, a ladder and a horizontal bar. Hanging by the hands Is the best be ginning for stretching. Place the bar at such a height that, when you bang by your hands, your toes will not reach the floor. You must have your bar ad Justable. by the way for there will b other heights required as you progress Give a light spring to reach it. then hang while you count ten. Count It quickly and drop, spring again, count It more slowly repeat until you feel tho first signs of fatigue. Never allow this fetrctchlng to bring on a pain In the small of the back. Vary the hanging from day to day. letting it be sometimes from the bar. sometimes from the rings. Run and swing In the lings, all the while letting your body stretch Itself to the utmost. You are growing taller while you do this not that your body Is taking on Inches, but you are unklnklng it from Its cramped position. You who long for a statuesque height must congratulate yourselves. Now for the real work in the rings. Lower them until they are within easy reach when you stand on the floor. Grasp them, place the balls of the feet upon the floor, raising the heels, then proceed to sway the body with a circular motion, keeping the feet directly under the rings. Circle slowly, throwing the trunk out as far as It will go to right and left. At first you may give yourself a good gen eral stretching by circling evenly. Then adapt the movement to your.speclal nee dr. Tho side of the low hip. usually the left side. Is the one to be stretched. Circle toward the right side, throwing the weight of the body upon the right. This will straighten out the loft. Study the picture until you understand this ring work, then go into It heartily. Many corrective exercises are given with the aid of another person. The teacher often makes of himself a resistant force, giving the pupil something to push against. This Is all excellent, and gives variety to the exercise, but It you are not able to reach such a gymnasium you need not give up. Lie face down on a mattress on the floor and get someone to hold your feet down. If no ono is handy, hold them down of themselves. Stretch the arms straight out on the mattress before you. Raise the body slowly from the waist, keeping the legs and feet down upon the mattress. This Is no easy task, and the first attempt will result in a struggle with nothing to show for It. An observer very likely could not see that you had raised the body at all. Practice until you can. Now change the position of the arms. Place the left hand on the left shoul der or let It clasp the neck at the left side, while the right one clasps the right hip. This Is baaed upon the supposition that the right hip Is the high one. and that the left Is to be raised. If the reverse Is true in your case, alter the exercises to suit. Keeping the feet on the ground as before, raise the upper part of the body In the same way. Now up again and to the ladder. A common ladder will do quite as well as one made for a gymnasium. Only see to it that It Is strong and firmly placed, for If you are afraid of a fall you will not throw good spirit into the work. Grasp the highest rung that you can reach with the right hand. Give your self a sort of boost from within and grasp the next rung with the" left hand. and so on up, hand over hand. The higher you climb the better. For this reason you will do better if not restrict ed by a ceiling. Do not permit the feet to touch a rung. Bend the knees, rais ing the feet and throwing them out back ward. At another time you may practice sim ple hanging on the ladder, raising the feet In the sanie way. ThH Is good for general stretching. But afterward, spe cialize by letting the right hand clasp a rung lower than the left and so throwing the brunt of the stretching upon the left side. Extend yourself, face downward, across a small table or the seat of a chair in such a position that the body above the waist line Is not supported. Let some one support your feet so that the whole effort of the body Is to keep Itself poised from the waist up. The spine Is straight ened by the effort. Place your bar in a vertical position. It- must be firm. Stand with your right side toward It at a distance of two or three feet. Bend the trunk toward It. letting the hands follow, above the head, until they can grasp the bar. Keep this posi tion for ten counts, relax, standing, then repeat. The left side Is stretched by the process and the left hip drawn up ward, so to speak. Sit astride a rhatr. facing the back of !t. Let the hands and arms relax, fall ing loosely at the sides. Bend the trunk to the left as far as you can. bending In a slightly oblique, backward direction, then to the right in the same way. Con tinue for 20 counts. Lie extended on the mattress, face up, hands at the sides. Raise the aTns ver tically. Now raise tho left leg slowly until it is vertical, no bcrd at the knee ; being permitted. The toe should be brought up until It meets the left hand. Lower the leg, go through the same pro cess with the right. Continue alternately for eight counts, then raise both legs at the same time. If you will study the above exercises you will see that some are what might be called one-sided, others are uniformly stretching. You' are not supposed to be given only exercises that raise the low hip, for stretching In general brings the spine into a proper shape. But never use a movement which forces up the high hip. Give yourself five minutes a day in which to stanad before a long mirror. Loosen your dress to such an extent that you can see tho level of the hips clearly defined. Now bring them Into proper po- ltlon and hold them there, standing even ly for all ot the allotted time. KATHERINB MORTON. PLANKED WHITEFISH New York World. PLANKED whitefish takes the place of shad on Chicago menus, and is better. There are no bones. Costs the same. Green turtle soup is 10 cents a por tion cheaper than in New York. The Chicago temperament manifests an intense desire to do something, but Is In too much of a hurry to do It. Eight o'clock Is the Chicago hour for getting to business in the morning. It always looks as if it was going to rain. Chicago storekeepers play on the imagination of the tenderfoot by making elaborate window displays of umbrellas and so sell large numbers. .They call them "umberells." The policeman at the corner of Mon roe and Dearborn streets, three doora from the offlco of the Inter-Ocean, did not know where it was. Few Chicago streets are more un clean than Dr. Woodbury leaves Beek man. Ann, Fulton and William streets in New York. After being in office eight years Mayor Carter Harrison is beginning to speak pathetically of ''ray successor" The struggle for culture in Chicago is real. There Is no such bookstore in New York as McClurg's. with its won derful . stock of rare and classic books; nor is there a music store to compare with that of Lyon & Healy. The nightly concerts and lectures rival the theatrical performances In num bers and attendance. The perpetual darkness probably ex plains the Chicago habit of wearing dress suits at breakfast. The boss of tno Auditorium barber shop wears hi? Tuxedo all day long. It is very becom ing. Chicago barber shops are run like everything else in town by com pressed air. So many Westerners who shave once a month drop In that heavy machinery is necessary. Soft coal smoke accumulates on your person while you sleep. It Is said to be good for colds. About the biggest building in town is occupied by the publishers of the Chicago Directory. Otis Skinner Is Chicago's favorite actor. The ushers at the Garrlck Theater chew gum. So do many persons in tho audience. Between the acts uniformed attendants pass through the aisles with fresh supplies of maxillary material. The most enterprising restaurant in. Chicago parades a huge truck-load oj choice cuts of meats through the street! with the announcement that their nc appearance will be on the bill of ford