Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 22, 1905)
THE STINT) AY OKEGOlttAS', POBTLAND, ACTAHY 22, 130,
1 FANCY-DRESS RULES FOR MID-WINTER BALLS zsx?-":
WHO. In all the world, at come age or
other, has not loved the. glamor of
the masquerade? The time for
gentfc mumming is here, though the fancy
dress season may be said to have opened
with Twelfth Night. But the balls which
n il! be given by the smart -world to cele
brate the birthday of the Saint of Hearts
and Arrows will display more costumes
than have yet been seen. However, these
beautiful dreeses, the majority of which
eniphasize the courtly trend of the day,
will not be confined to valentine parties.
They will be worn at mid-Lent, when
taking the cue from Paris, the fashion
able world on this side of the water rests
a moment from devotions. They will also
be seen at the Southern carnivals that
precede and follow Lent and at the pri
vate balls, given here and there, all "Win
ter long. J
Tho fashionable world has evidently
tired of Follies and Clowns and Fairies
and common folk. The fancy costumes
being turned out by the best people depict
the grandeurs of patch and powder, of
stiff satins and miniature bracelets and
ed heels. The courts of all the Louis
are superbly represented, and some ISth
cntury costumes show the cock hat and
!chu of George and Martha Washington.
Characters from old English portraits
ire also immensely in favor, and these
ilsplay with a faithful nicety all the little
points of the toilet Romney and Reynolds
and other great painters made famous.
The costumes reproduce, as far as possi
ble, the textures as well as the graceful
Hies of this period, and with simple white
-nusllns and flowered chintzes are seen
lowdered wigs elaborately dressed over
ushlons with roses and feathers.
The beauties of the old English painters
evidently had simple tastes. More than
me breaker of hearts known to pos
terity is gowned in the simplest book
muslin, with only the splendors of her
coiffure, or perhaps a colored satin sasb,
to make her fine.
A trio of 18th century costumes delight
fully reproduce old portrait effects, with
such changes as are necessary for modern
A Romney lady Is represented by a
gown of white India muslin trimmed only
upon the bodice with a.band of gilt em
broidery. The bodice is in surplice, clos-
IUC U1U ttUUUk UJC JJ04C UCWj
arms and waist is worn a scarf four
yards long, of white tissue hemmed with
gilt. The simply hemmed skirt is gathered
and lies upon the floor all around.
"With this costume a Marie Antoinette
coiffure is designed. The wig shows a
pompadour over a cushion, side puffs and
a long curl that falls upon the neck.
It Is ornamented with a string of pearl
beads, a fan of muslin adjusted like a
comb and three pink feathers. No other
ornaments are worn. For a blonde of
good figure and handsome face this cos
turae, which Is by far the most charming
of the three, will be found irresistible.
Next In point of beauty is a Reynolds
gown, whose elaborate treatment makes
It suited to a wider range of types. Ma
terials in this are gray and gold brocade
and plain gray satin. The brocade forms
the tight bodice and train, the two open
Sng over a pointed vest and petticoat of
the plain satin. The fichu scarf and un
ierslceves are of white muslin, as well as
the huge mob cap, which Is trimmed with
a band and wired bow of black velvet
ribbon. Loops of the same, held by a
paste buckle, fasten the fichu at the bust,
above six splendid paste buttons, which
PORTRAIT BEACHES REPRODUCED IN TXSCX DRESS.
ornament the body. Other points are a
looped velvet bracelet and a Dlrectoire
cane painted gray.
The third lady wears white silk mousse
line with deckings of great pink roses
and black velvet ribbon. Her costume
with Its robe-fronted skirt and flchu
draped waist, has quite a modern air.
The puffed elbow sleeves, which are led
with the ribbons, are of the sort now
fashionable. A wide wreath of roses
smaller than those which trim the gown
Is worn In the hair, and two velvet
bracelets one held by a miniature brooch
are the only other ornaments.
Some eccentric Ideas shown among the
fancy-dress costumes copy playing cards
with a telling oddity. These are done In
plain colored calicoes, for the face cards,
with white sheeting and black and red
calico for the spotted ones. The card Idea
Is thought most amusing for fancy cos-
given the guests were arrayed as queens
of hearts, jacks of spades and what not-
But if big folk enjoy the masquerade,
what Is it to the little ones! Children are
in their element when playing at being
tumes, and at a bridge party recently somebody else, and the quaint grown-up
Ideas now adopted for their costume par
ties make this counterfeiting even, more
delightful. Red Riding Hoods and- Jaefc
Homers and Little Boy Blues ar set,
aside far stately. long-skirted ladies and
booted and spurred gallants. Grand
dames- of the courts of the Louis appear
here. too. and the little Mantespans; and
Actoinces arc mated with courtier cos- '
tumes which make the small boys quits
as splendid. One dress for a girt of 6 re
produced exactly the hooped and statety
Httlo Infaafci of Velasquex. Another cos
tumc for tho same age represents- a littl
lady of tho court of Louis XV. This love
ly little gown is like what Madame de
Pompadour herself might have worn at
this age. for the famous mingling or this
lady's delicate colors are here seen. Tlw
pale, pinlc satin skirt, which is stretched
over a vast hoop, has a raised embroidery
of pink roses, and-leaves. The jacket ot
plain rati a has- sleeve flounces oC deep
lace, and opens over a soft vest of old
fashioned striped silk In pea green. A
small trtcorne hat of whito velvet and
feathers is et jauntily at one side of the
curled and powdered head, and a tiny
painted fan and cane arc carried. .
Such a dainty deity ot powder, yon
are totd, "should be matched by a Louis
XV beau, also with a powdered wig tied
with a black bow. His coat should be of
green satin embroidered in an elaborate
design ot pink, roses, and he should wear
pink satin, knee breeches, lace- sleeve ruf
fles and buckle shoes. A gold eyeglass
and" enameled snuffbox complete Ihe get-
up of this charming gallant."
But contrast Is the spice of life, and so
It seems a. piquant point to match the
little lady of courts- with a small Napo
leon. For this costume tho long gray-
army coat and top boots and cocked hat
of the battlefield are mora effective than
the grand dress afterward adopted by the
Little Corporal. The most ordinary pic
ture of Napoleon in his soldier uniform.
will Jtrive correct ideas for this character.
which may be cleverly helped out by well-v-
known mannerisms the studied way the
great .Napoleon neui mmseix tor nis pic
ture, the solemn gravity of countenance.
the lock of thin hair that seems almost
pasted to the forehead. And if nothing,
else is accomplished, the Little Corporal
of the masquerade will delight in bis
For the character ot the Little Corporal
these are the things required: Overcoat
of gray cloth, with skirts put on at hips,
and incroyable reveres. White cloth
waistcoat topped by one in red. the two.
cut away in the old V fashion. Top bootsj
of patent leather, with white kid band aj
ton. Cocked hat of black felt and ribbo:
fob with green seals.
A barnyard masquerade is a frolic chlr
drcn much, delight in, and the .best -part
of the scheme is that tho costumes can
be made of paper. Tha upper part of the
body alone imitates the feathered one, a
close cap with a bird nose covering the
head and face. "Where stiffness is re
quired, the paper is doubled several times,
with an occasional quill Introduced for
reality. Colored tissue in a heavy quality
is required, in rich reds, blues, greens,
grays and blacks. To make the wings,
which are as important a feature as the
head, a frame is first constructed of
wired muslin to fit over the arms, which
are held with elbows bent- These are
afterward trimmed with paper cut in quill
form and sewed on in lapping rows. A.
barnyard party can be made a most
tunny affair, for the characters include
everything from a gobbler to a goosey
gander. So an occasional quack may
come In. a "gobble, gobble," and a dis
When it is time to unmask the herald
In charge tears away the disguise, calling?
the name of the child at the, same instant.
This Is a glorious moment for the young
mummers. MART DEAN.
THE BEAUTY QUEST CORRECTIVE EXERCISES
Special Work for Women With Uneven Hips, One
High Shoulder, Etc.
PERHAPS you are startled some day
by the measurements of your dress
maker. She announces, "Skirt 40
inches left side, 41 right."
You ask how that can be. Surely sho
has used her tape line carelessly. You
arc not deformed.
She measures again with the same re
sult "That is nothing remarkable, ma
dam; nine ladles out ot every ten have a
difference in their hips or their shoulders.
1 can easily hide the fact."
So, If she Is skillful, she goes to work
to make up for the missing Inch. She
builds a little pad, which you arc to wear
In the skirt or tuck away under the cor
set. This raises the low left hip and
gives the appearance of a symmetrical
But all the time the fact Is just the
same: you are not symmetrical. Do you
know the reason? Do not be shocXed. for
the word curvature Is not so serious as
it Is commonly supposed to be. But the
fact Is. any doctor will tell you so, you
have a curvature of the spine.
Now It Is a common thing to call a
hump back a curvature, and to suppose
that this is the real and only meaning of
the word as applied to backs. This is not
true. Technically the word Is applied
to any crookedness of the spine, even in
the slightest deviation from the straight
line. A large proportion ot the people in ,
the world have this defect and go
through life and are never called de
formed. However, their figure Is not
what It should bo nor what It might bo
made with proper gymnastic treatment.
What is the use of being bothered with
pads and with skirts that hang badly and
with thinking up devices in dress trim
mings to hldo the fault of one-sldedness?
Why not undertake to correct the fault?
Not that a slight curvature Is anything
to be alarmed at. It will not cripple you
or shorten tho days of your life, but
those days will be plcasanter without It.
Your gait cannot possibly be graceful if
your hips arc uneven. Certain annoy
ances, such as neuralgia in the side. In
tercostal neuralgia, are said to arise from
if. Your appearance is always handi
capped and often your comfort.
If you visit the most modern gymna
siums in our large cities you will find
any number ot patient being treated for
this very common defect. Each one Is
nven special exercises according to her
nerds and strength. The basis of all the
Wsons given to straighten a spine Is
trtchlng. If the spine is thoroughly
stretched It straightens ot Itself.
But before you begin gymnastic treat
ment, learn how to stand. Unless you
remember this every hour of the day you
will not gain benefit from all the exer
libe In the world. It Is probable that you
brought about the high hip and conse
quent high shoulder from standing "on
one leg" when you were a schoolgirl. You
formed a habit of humping up one hip. al
ways the same hip, until you came to be
a fixture in that raised position. To-i
must warn yourself constantly that this
habit i to be overcome.
A well-equipped Swedish gymnasium of
fers a good Idea of apparatus adapted to
the- needs of its patients -or pupils: but
ou can help yourself, perhaps cure your
self, by home treatments. Tou must be
provided, however, with a pair of rings
suspended frbm the celling, a ladder and
a horizontal bar.
Hanging by the hands Is the best be
ginning for stretching. Place the bar
at such a height that, when you bang
by your hands, your toes will not reach
the floor. You must have your bar ad
Justable. by the way for there will b
other heights required as you progress
Give a light spring to reach it. then
hang while you count ten. Count It
quickly and drop, spring again, count It
more slowly repeat until you feel tho
first signs of fatigue. Never allow this
fetrctchlng to bring on a pain In the small
of the back.
Vary the hanging from day to day.
letting it be sometimes from the bar.
sometimes from the rings. Run and swing
In the lings, all the while letting your
body stretch Itself to the utmost. You
are growing taller while you do this not
that your body Is taking on Inches, but
you are unklnklng it from Its cramped
position. You who long for a statuesque
height must congratulate yourselves.
Now for the real work in the rings.
Lower them until they are within easy
reach when you stand on the floor. Grasp
them, place the balls of the feet upon the
floor, raising the heels, then proceed to
sway the body with a circular motion,
keeping the feet directly under the rings.
Circle slowly, throwing the trunk out as
far as It will go to right and left. At
first you may give yourself a good gen
eral stretching by circling evenly. Then
adapt the movement to your.speclal nee dr.
Tho side of the low hip. usually the left
side. Is the one to be stretched. Circle
toward the right side, throwing the
weight of the body upon the right. This
will straighten out the loft. Study the
picture until you understand this ring
work, then go into It heartily.
Many corrective exercises are given with
the aid of another person. The teacher
often makes of himself a resistant force,
giving the pupil something to push against.
This Is all excellent, and gives variety
to the exercise, but It you are not able
to reach such a gymnasium you need not
Lie face down on a mattress on the
floor and get someone to hold your feet
down. If no ono is handy, hold them
down of themselves. Stretch the arms
straight out on the mattress before you.
Raise the body slowly from the waist,
keeping the legs and feet down upon the
mattress. This Is no easy task, and the
first attempt will result in a struggle
with nothing to show for It. An observer
very likely could not see that you had
raised the body at all. Practice until
Now change the position of the arms.
Place the left hand on the left shoul
der or let It clasp the neck at the left
side, while the right one clasps the right
hip. This Is baaed upon the supposition
that the right hip Is the high one. and that
the left Is to be raised. If the reverse
Is true in your case, alter the exercises
to suit. Keeping the feet on the ground
as before, raise the upper part of the
body In the same way.
Now up again and to the ladder. A
common ladder will do quite as well as
one made for a gymnasium. Only see to
it that It Is strong and firmly placed, for
If you are afraid of a fall you will not
throw good spirit into the work.
Grasp the highest rung that you can
reach with the right hand. Give your
self a sort of boost from within and
grasp the next rung with the" left hand.
and so on up, hand over hand. The
higher you climb the better. For this
reason you will do better if not restrict
ed by a ceiling. Do not permit the feet
to touch a rung. Bend the knees, rais
ing the feet and throwing them out back
At another time you may practice sim
ple hanging on the ladder, raising the
feet In the sanie way. ThH Is good for
general stretching. But afterward, spe
cialize by letting the right hand clasp a
rung lower than the left and so throwing
the brunt of the stretching upon the left
Extend yourself, face downward, across
a small table or the seat of a chair in
such a position that the body above the
waist line Is not supported. Let some
one support your feet so that the whole
effort of the body Is to keep Itself poised
from the waist up. The spine Is straight
ened by the effort.
Place your bar in a vertical position. It-
must be firm. Stand with your right side
toward It at a distance of two or three
feet. Bend the trunk toward It. letting
the hands follow, above the head, until
they can grasp the bar. Keep this posi
tion for ten counts, relax, standing, then
repeat. The left side Is stretched by
the process and the left hip drawn up
ward, so to speak.
Sit astride a rhatr. facing the back of
!t. Let the hands and arms relax, fall
ing loosely at the sides. Bend the trunk
to the left as far as you can. bending In
a slightly oblique, backward direction,
then to the right in the same way. Con
tinue for 20 counts.
Lie extended on the mattress, face up,
hands at the sides. Raise the aTns ver
tically. Now raise tho left leg slowly
until it is vertical, no bcrd at the knee
; being permitted. The toe should be
brought up until It meets the left hand.
Lower the leg, go through the same pro
cess with the right. Continue alternately
for eight counts, then raise both legs at
the same time.
If you will study the above exercises
you will see that some are what might
be called one-sided, others are uniformly
stretching. You' are not supposed to be
given only exercises that raise the low
hip, for stretching In general brings the
spine into a proper shape. But never
use a movement which forces up the high
Give yourself five minutes a day in
which to stanad before a long mirror.
Loosen your dress to such an extent that
you can see tho level of the hips clearly
defined. Now bring them Into proper po-
ltlon and hold them there, standing even
ly for all ot the allotted time.
New York World.
PLANKED whitefish takes the place
of shad on Chicago menus, and is
better. There are no bones. Costs the
Green turtle soup is 10 cents a por
tion cheaper than in New York.
The Chicago temperament manifests an
intense desire to do something, but Is In
too much of a hurry to do It.
Eight o'clock Is the Chicago hour for
getting to business in the morning.
It always looks as if it was going
to rain. Chicago storekeepers play on
the imagination of the tenderfoot by
making elaborate window displays of
umbrellas and so sell large numbers.
.They call them "umberells."
The policeman at the corner of Mon
roe and Dearborn streets, three doora
from the offlco of the Inter-Ocean, did
not know where it was.
Few Chicago streets are more un
clean than Dr. Woodbury leaves Beek
man. Ann, Fulton and William streets
in New York.
After being in office eight years
Mayor Carter Harrison is beginning to
speak pathetically of ''ray successor"
The struggle for culture in Chicago
is real. There Is no such bookstore in
New York as McClurg's. with its won
derful . stock of rare and classic
books; nor is there a music store to
compare with that of Lyon & Healy.
The nightly concerts and lectures rival
the theatrical performances In num
bers and attendance.
The perpetual darkness probably ex
plains the Chicago habit of wearing
dress suits at breakfast. The boss of
tno Auditorium barber shop wears hi?
Tuxedo all day long. It is very becom
ing. Chicago barber shops are run like
everything else in town by com
pressed air. So many Westerners who
shave once a month drop In that heavy
machinery is necessary.
Soft coal smoke accumulates on your
person while you sleep. It Is said to
be good for colds.
About the biggest building in town
is occupied by the publishers of the
Otis Skinner Is Chicago's favorite actor.
The ushers at the Garrlck Theater
chew gum. So do many persons in tho
audience. Between the acts uniformed
attendants pass through the aisles with
fresh supplies of maxillary material.
The most enterprising restaurant in.
Chicago parades a huge truck-load oj
choice cuts of meats through the street!
with the announcement that their nc
appearance will be on the bill of ford