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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 13, 1904)
Sf THE STODAr QKEQrUR&LR, fWFKF? 13, I Season's Juvenile Toggery Gains in "Simple jp T A season -when grown-ups clothed are ornate to the point of looking w overloaded. It Is a genuine relief to enter a shop -which specializes smart raiment for children, for here, at least, simplicity reigns, effective and restful. "Willie their ejders are going In for the most impossible shades of brown, 'ma ihogany, flame and green, children under 16 years of age are going back to the first principles of white or delicate color ings, made up on .straight lines, which are a distinct relief after so much shir ring, straight and applied. The one exception in the matter of colorings is the plaids, which are more than ever popular for 6mall girls and boys and for Miss Sweet Sixteen. But the plaid Is made up very simply without trimming, save, perhaps, a fold or two 'of velvet and buttons. Another feature of the year In Lilli putian raiment is the sharp line which defines evcry-day coats from the more crressy outdoor apparel. The lace trimmed silk coat for school wear, which was so absolutely out of place, has dis appeared entirely, and In its stead has come & heavy common-sense school coat, almost as severely tailored as mother's rainy-day costume. For small children there Is a marked tendency toward the use of wash frocks the year around. The prevalence of steam heat or furnace heat In the mod ern homes makes this possible, and the exquisitely comfortable union suits in linen mesh and sanitary wools help on the good work. Every mother will bear THE TURKET BIRD has been weighed and found wanting on Its native heath, America, and by no Jess a personage than Mr. Burne Jones. Qn his, return to England, this brilliant artist had many things to say in criticism of- the United States, Including the fol lowing pointed remark: "The turkey whom we originally owe to America, appears to my mind to less ad--vantage on his native soli than he does In the land of his adoption. He is a bit tasteless and insipid over there, and is garnished with a particularly tasteless iorm of stuffing, of which one readily tires." "Where and with whom did Mr. Jones dine, that he should have such a poor opinion of our turkey? Every housewife knows just the unsavory form of stuffing Mr. Jones means. Sometime somewhere she has been unfortunate enough to have her turkey spoiled by the introduction of a bread-and-mllk poultice in lieu of a toothsome compound. But did Mr. Jones, In his American trav els, dining with millionaires, never eat a truf&ed turkey? Or in some of those Bos ton homes, where he was made welcome, did no one ever gladden his eye and his taste with a Rhode Island bird stuffed with chestnuts? If not, Mr. Jones should come ygntp and visit some more modest household, where, even with oyster stuf fing, he will often find a turkey delldous ly savory. The Incomparable American bird, if it Is to sustain its reputation, must be se lected, with great care. If for roasting, buy a young hen turkey, plump, with a whitish skin that is clean and soft, the legs black, the breast broad and the neck short The flesh of an old hen Is usually covered with long hairs, tho legs aro rough and of a reddish purple color. Capons, which may once in a while be obtained, are very choice, as they are juicy and extremely tender. They are also high-priced. Gobblers have a strong er flavor than the female bird, and are not so plump. The spurs are long, and the flesh often of a reddish color. There ere so many devices nowadays for pre serving food an unconscionable time, that it is best to buy of a reputable dealer. The appearance of the head and feet in dressed poultry shows something of Its age and condition. In good stock, the feet will be soft and flexible: the eyes full and bright, and the flesh white. In that -which has been kept too long the feet are dry and hard, flesh dark-colored and eyes sunken and dulL Old turkeys are best boiled or cooked in the kettle until nearly tender, then stuffed and browned in the oven. When the bird is ready to cook, first singe the skin. A small alcohol lamp is most convenient for this. 'Pass the turkey Quickly over it. Do not' try to handle the lamp. 'Wipe with a damp towel. If not drawn. Co tnis so carefully that trie in testines are not broken. They sometimes rive a taste of bitterness to the fowl. The remedy Is to wash out the inside care fully with cooking soda and water. The most famous filling tor a roast "TO nr ilf T ill i ft;" BaJSWP ?WKV I TTlHliMi Twnnm mm The Stuffing for the Turkey Bird witness to the fact that washable rai ment for children of the busy play-age Is the most sanitary. Half-hose will be much worn by wee folk in the house with slippers In pa tent leather, while for the street there are white kid shoes with black, patent leather vamps with leggins In leather, velvet, broadcloth and woolen yarn, to supply the deflpciency of the half-hose. Lingerie effects still prevail in dress hats for little girls, but for school wear tailored fashions are no longer consid ered too old for the girl of 12 or under. In the matter of furs for very small chil dren, the return of the elder-down will be welcome. "White Thibet fur and white astrakhan are also used for little tots, and their sisters a trifle older may have white fox. Moleskin and beaver bands are still used in combination with white silk, broadcloth and velvet, when em ployed in coats for children under 5 years of age. Sealskin bands are also employed this year, but for children a trifle older. One last general word: mothers who are artists in dressing their children, are carefully avoiding the use of orange or tobacco brown. Either one Is distinctly a mature color and makes a child look over-dressed. Bright-colored plaids are employed in kilts for small boys. In simply-made turkey, and also the most costly. Is of truffles. In France, their native soil, they are at their best. American cooks, must use canned ones, and In spite of Its reputa tion, many Americans only pretend to like truffled turkey. As the flavor is positive, truffles are usually mixed with mush rooms, ham or bacon. "Whatever dressing may be used in poultry, do not pack It, for then it acts as a .sponge to absorb the juices of the fowl, and becomes heavy. An approved truffle filling Is made from one can of truffles, size next to the. small est, and one can of mushrooms. Chop both fine, add to - them an ounce of chopped parsley and one-half teaspoonful of powdered thyme. Next place an ounce of chopped onion in a saucepan with two ounces or a tablespoonful of butter. "When a faint yollow, add the mixture. Season with a level teaspoonful of white pepper and a teaspoonful of salt. Cook over a moderate fire four minutes. Stir all the time. Cool, then pack It lightly into the crop and body of the turkey. Save a little of it to put under the skin on the breast in the form of a thin layer, taking caro not to break tho skin. Hang in a cool place two or three days at least before cooking. The given quantity of dressing is sufficient for a turkey weigh ing 10 or 12 pounds. If bacon is mixed with the truffles, use an equal quantity of that which is fat and white. Chop or pound it very fine. Season with salt and pepper. A turkey filled with a force-meat of oysters has also its delights. Make a dressing from one quart of oysters and enough stale bread In very fine crumbs to fill the bird. Use the Juice from the oysters to moisten. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a stalk of celery chopped very fine. Add the oysters and mix well. A tablespoonful , of chopped parsley, a bay leaf and a grated onion may be used instead of the celery. The quantity of seasoning given Is for every two cups of bread crumbs used. Chestnuts make such' an appetizing and GlitterandQIeamofOperaBags WITH the dramatic season in full swing, the question of; an opera bag Is all-Important to the woman who loves dainty dress accessories. It would Eeem that In this trinket, at least, fash ion would demand little change, but this year the reign of the period- gown has brought about some radical .changes In opera bajrs. The leading innovations In the order of popularity are the bead bags, spangled effects, pompadour ribbons and hand painted receptacles. The Parisian novel ty Is a very narrow bag lioIdng a pair of the compact, flat opera glasses, a beveled mirror, a tiny powder puff and a small cut-glass smelling salts bottle. In the light green lizard skin these cases are suitable to carry with even the dain tiest evening dress. From Paris also come grandmother's old-fashioned bead b&gs, done in the most charming of Dresden desfess. The ob frocks for their tiny sisters and In shirtwaist suits and more dressy frocks for their older sisters. They are the most desirable of fabrics for the econ omical woman, as they require little or no trimming. Braid which harmonizes well with the predominating color-tone in the plaid and buttons are used for trimming this material. A very pretty dress for a girl of 14 was developed in shairtwaist fashion from Scotch plaid showing dark blue and dark green with a very fine stripe of gold silk. The shirt was made with side plaits. The blouse was also plaited back and front, the central plait in the front being a little wider than the side plaits, and set off by groups of buttoms arranged In three between two rows oj! plain green braid. The buttoms were of gold, heavily enameled with green and blue. The stock and. cuffs were trimmed with the plain green braird and buttons of the smaller size. A more elaborate plaid gown for a .girl of about tho same age showed navy blue and a bluish white, with a hair line of red. This was made up with cardinal red velvet, which matched the red stripe. The skirt was laid in big plaits and the blouse was made with smocked fronts set Into a shoulder yoke of red velvet. The high girdle was also of velvet. For very best, when ellk is desired, a Inexpensive dressing for poultry that they should be mere frequently used. For this dressing, roast or boll two quarts of chest nuts, and wash them. Shell and mix with two tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and red pepper to taste. Set aside one quart of the chestnut pulp to use in the gravy. Cooked meat, veal or lamb minced. Is sometimes used with the chestnuts, a pint of meat to four dozen chestnuts. A third very good mixture consists of bread crumbs and chestnuts In equal quantities, well seasoned. Mashed white potatoes, well-seasoned with herbs, salt and pepper and plenty of butter Is a dressing much liked by some families. A dressing that creates a hun ger for more, whether used for turkeys, ducks or geese. Is made from four cups of hot mashed potatoes, two teaspoonfuls of onion juice, eight tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, the yolk of four eggs, well-beaten. two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and beat until light before using. Half this quantity may be used for chicken. A favorite plain stuffing consists of a quart of grated bread crumbs and a cup ful, of milk or cold water. After standing an hour or more, it is seasoned with two beaten eggs, three ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a table spoonful of onion juice, and half a tea spoonful each of powdered thyme. Sum mer savor and pepper. Sometimes the herbs are omitted and only nutmeg, salt and pepper and onion juice used. i Tart oranges, sliced and served with a little oil and a dash of cayenne form one of the best relishes to servo with roast turkey. Glblet stuffing, flavored with sherry, is liked by those who use wine in their cooking. The giblets are simmered in stock or in water untll tender. Chop them fine and heat with two cupfuls of bread crumbs, three tablespoonfuls of butter, salt, pepper and sweet marjoram to taste. A small glass -of sherry Is added just be fore the dressing Is packed In the bird. long, pouch shape has a bead fringe at the bottom, and Is headed by two inches of velvet In the shape of the predominating color In the -bag. Through the rings at the .foot of "this heading Is run a gilt chain to draw the pouch up. One par. tlcularly handsome bag shows the upper and lower part . of peacock-blue beads, while in the heart of the white center are Dresden blue and yellow tulipa. When made by machine these opera bags can be bought for 530, but none of those made by hand are sold under $50l In silk bags, full gathered effects are still seen, though the flat rounding equares and oblongs are by far the most popular. The changeable silks in pale blue and tureen, pale blue and lavender and pate blue and pink are brilliantly spangled In gold and silver, and show the graceful curves of the Louis draperies as well as the striking beetle design, which is just now in vogue. Black satin bags are spangled in silver, and the white and gold comblaatiet, se popular in the bead Rob Roy check may be employed. This shows red and black so cleverly combined in the check that at a distance the fa bric gives the. effect ol a chameleon red taffeta. Quite frequently the plaid Is over-laid with a small red figure in satin finish. The fine shepherd plaids are also greatly In demand, and these are trimmed with braid and very plain tailored buttonc Golden brown, royal blue and rich red are popular colors lor young girls- this "Winter, and are shown in cheviots, serges, broadcloths and novelty goods of the most durable character. Never have the counters displayed more complete lines of -wash fabrics suitable for hard wear. Cotton cheviots, galatea cloth, pique and novelty goods, which may be classed under the general title of mer cerized cottons, all make durable wash frocks for "Winter wear. As It is not always easy to dry clothes In "Winter, they should be made up simply with as few shirrings as possible, and bags, is effectively produced by the use of gold spangles on a white silk ground. The new clasp for closing these bags Is a flat fllllgree, showing rollicking Cupids. Exquisitely soft and delicate are the hand-painted bags with dancing Marie Antoinette and Louis figures, the pale colors fading- gradually Into the white background while nothing could be more charming than the tiny clovers or roses embossed on the changeable silks-by the aid of ribbon embroidery of harmonizing shades. The girl with deft fingers can be quite exclusive In her opera bag. The mag nificent pomdapour ribbon, which comes In Innumerable designs, can be easily made into a bag and fastened at the top by two gilt rods put on with silk cord. The ribbon with flowers embossed In vel vet makes extremely handsome bags. She who has not a fat pocketbook for dress accessories may choose from very pretty bags in broad-tall velour of delicate shades for 93 cents, or a silk bag with stamped Dutch designs In soft colors for a little over a dollar. Dutch figures and scenes In palest Delft coloring are painted on pearl-gray silk, and have for their clasps conventionalized leaves and flowers In sliver with oblong imitation pearls and opals. These jew eled 'effects, enjoying such high favor In all feminine attire, are equally popular off opera, bag clasps. The small opera glasses, which close together' so that they are no longer nor thicker than a medium sized pocketbook, come in white and pale leather-coverings, with gold and silver decoratldns, or In mother-of-pearl and opalescent embellish ments. Ode to Autumn. '. John. Kqats. ' Season of mists and mellow -fruhfulnezsl Close bosom friend of the maturing nn; (jocsplring with him how to load and "bless With fruit the Tinea that, round the thatch, eaves run: To bend with apples the roosa'd cottage trees. And fuf all fruit -with rJpenese ic the core; To swell the 'gourd 'and plump tie 'hazel shells With a .sweet kernel; to see budding more And still more later flowers for the beta," Until they think warm days will sever 'cease. For Summer has -o'erbrimm'd their' clammy cells. Who hath not seen thee oft amid thy store? Sometimes whoever eeeks abroad may And" Thee sitting careleai on a granary floor Thy hair" soft-lifted by the -winnowing1 wind;' Or tin a half-reaped fnrrow.uosiKl ' aaleep. - Drowsed with the fume of popples, while they hOOK Spares the next swath and - all Its twined flowers;. And. sometimes like a.gieaner thou dost' keep , Steady thy laden head. 'across a brook; Or by a cider press; wlthpUent look.' Thou watctieet the last oozlngs, hoars' by hura. Where are the songs of Spring? Ay, whre are they? Thlni-notof them, thou hast thy mvmle, too. While barred clouds bloom the soft-dylsj day. And touch the sqbtle-B!iswlth rosy hue: Then In. a wailful choir -the essi! gnats moern Among the river 'shallows, borne aloft ; Or sinking as the light wind lives or dies; And fullrjrrows lasses bleatTfrom hilly boera; He4e-cricket sing; and bow with treble soft The redbreast whistles from a garden-croft, Ad .gathering swallows twitter la the sklee. "He i coMi&ered a etew ftMatefer. Is 1m notr' CThy, wfcsrs 6H yam set tt Met? He mtv beat aytoor sot c aattatag is. Ms., sttel" Cte-rstM k. 9sssssssssssflBsHBs9sHBsssBsssssBsssw fmmmmB flat braid for trimming. Russian blouse suits or one-piece dresses laid in plaits are the most effective In these heavy wash materials. For afternoon and' party wear, finer wash fabrics may be employed, and here may enter the most delicate of handwork. Recently there were fin ished for two little sisters in a wealthy New Tork family, dresses which furn ish models for wear on Sundays or to The Eccentricities of New Brooches ODD, unconventional designs in metal and enamel brooches have taken pos session of feminine fancy. "Where last year In the less expensive brooches for stock and shirtwaist fastenings were of fered plain ovals in Imitation turquoise surrounded by a frame of gold or Imita tion copper, this year the most amazing studies from real .life appear on the jew elry counters of department stores. It is not enough for the American -woman to have a dainty little brooch of pearls or diamonds, which she wears .with her best frocks and her real laces, but she must have some odd pieces of jewelry. In expensive yet characteristic of herself and harmonizing with the rest of her costume. This year she will wear large gunmetal beetles, heads of the quadrupeds carved In gold, Egyptian wings, crystals and drag ons in every Imaginable contortion, and all these set off by rhinestones, imitation opals and amethysts, catseyes, the Scotch pebble in its reds and purples, and last but decidedly not least, the all-pervading peacock eye. Belt pins, 'made splendidly strong, and Some "Don'ts" in the Treatment of a Cold IF women and men, too, for that 1 matter, would take a rational, sen sible view of colds and the .treatment thereof, the death rate would surely de preciate," said a successful physician. "If there Is one thing that the average Indi vidual likes -to experiment with, It la a cold.' He tries first his own favorite rem edy, then, In turn, each one advised by his friends or neighbors, and the -physician is often his last court of appeal. 'Sometimes the appeal comes too late. I have known women to try a different remedy once in 2t hours, expecting each one to work a miracles, when a cold Is not a disease to be halted 'In such short order." A cold neglected Is the first step In ac quiring an acute and dangerous, pulmo nary or bronchial disease, and a cold half cured is the straight- and narrow path which leads to pneumonia. Here are a few"Vcoid don'ts" which ev ery home-maker will do well to hang In her medicine closet along with the direc tions for first aid to the Injured. Don't dose yourself with quinine, antl frnTriTj'a. phenacetin or . other standard drugs without first consulting your family physician. Many of these drugs act di rectly on the heart and weaken It, so that there is not sufficient vitality left to fight ,the cold. Don't plri your faith on the remedy which cured your next-door neighbor. He may have had a tendency to pleurisy, while you may be headed for pneumonia. Don't rub camphorated oil or stellar lubricants on your chest unless ytro cover It ,over with a flannel protector. Latarl- the dancing1 class. The material used was handkerchief linen and' the trim ming' consisted of hand-run tucks and Irish crochet lace. The plain skirts, shirred into a band at the waist, were finished with two-Inch edging of the lace. Above this were three tiny tucks, another band of Insertion, three mor.e tucks, another band of- the insertion and another trio of tucks. The little waist showed, deep yokes built from about four inches long, show one huge dragon, fly, a darning needle or a pair of Egyptian wings. The bodies of the files are of rhinestones or opals, with perhaps a tiny pearl in the wings. In one exclu sive shop the bodies are of Scotch pebble, which polishes Into the prettiest kind of a brick-red stone, with stripes of white, or a deep purple stone with sparkles of gold. The Egyptian wings are attached to a long opal, below which on each side la a row of rhinestones. The latter are espe cially brilliant against the gunmetal. As if carved from a, nugget of gold an inch in diameter, are animal heads. The elephant, with his curled trunk and ruby eyes; the lion with slightly parted Jaws, the hunting and greyhound, the Irish set ter, the snarling bulldog and the knowing owl with shining jeweled eyes all these are very realistic and are made with good strong pins. Half a globe of crystal, cut or plain, gives the effect: of a glass ball, and has a snake colled around it or a lizard crawl ing over it Everything creeping or writh ing has its counterpart in inexpensive jew elry, and very realistic they are. too. Bee tles and spiders, chameleons, lizards and snakes, everything that a woman shud grayate the cold unless the affected parti Is properly covered. I Don't experiment with the cold-water cure unless you thoroughly understand it. This is sometimes efficacious, but If im properly administered It is dangerous. Don t experiment with poultices if symptoms of pneumonia exist. Flaxseed and. bread-and-milk poultices should be used only by a trained nurse, for If they are permitted to cool they aggravate rather than relieve the disease. Don't undertake the sweat process be fore retiring unless you have proper at tendance. To soak the feet in hot mus tard wafer or to take a sltx bath and then stop to turn out the light or trot around the room a few moments before getting into bed. is to do more harm than good. Have the bath right beside the bed, the latter warm and well supplied with blan kets. Turn In at once and cover up to the chin. Cold sheets or a draft will more than counteract the effect of the sweat. If you use Iodine, don't fall to have glycerine mixed with it, otherwise you will blister the skin. If you apply a mustard plaster" have whits of egg or flour mixed with It for the .same reason. "When a baby 13 suffering from a cold don't administer a sleeping potion and im agine that you are reaching the seat of the trouble. The cold works insidiously while the child is sleeping so heavily un der the Influence of the opiate that you cannot notice the aggravated symptoms. If baby shows a tendency to take cold on the slightest provocation, follow its dally bath with an alcoholic rub. Many mothers can .testify that children treated this way are absolutely free from colds. If "the wakes out of sleep with a sodden,- hoarse, "barklser cough,, thla is not an ordteary cold. Wit creup. It the child breaths tnurfcuJy, or, as the old vil cmr. alternate strips of the Insertion and: tucked linen, with a deep bertha of which joined skirt and bodice was over-laid with a strip of the insertion. This design can also be produced' in .a heavy quality of linen done in the popular English velvet work. Dutch yokes are extremely popular for the little party dresses, and there Is practically no end to the fabrics to be employed. There Is nothing more satisfactory than the fine lawns trimmed with delicate lace, but point d'esprlt, silk crepe lansdowne, eollenne and crepe albatross are also used. Schpol coats take on military effects, and are- almost ' invariably double breasted,' with strappings at the same material, or braid and buttons. For smarter coats which are to be trimmed, velvet is unquestionably the most pop ular fabric Both the plain velvet and; the broad-tail velour are used -in com bination with fur and lace for this purpose. Plain velvet gives the best result In combination with fur or lace, while handsome buttons are generally sufficient to set off the coat of broad tail velour. If silk is employed it shows either moire or corded, weave, and novelty braids and buttons are employed for trimming. KATHERINE ANDERSON, ders1 to. touch when it is alive, she will be pinning Into her collar and belt this Win ter. " To fasten the dainty laces and ribbons for the necks, swallows small and lh flight and various forms of flies and butterflies are used. The swallows have wings of imitation opal In blue and the body In white. The butterflies' wings are In varie gated enamel or opalescent porcelain, with rhinestone bodies. One peacock feather In green and blue has a peacock" eye among the fronds at the tip. A single, peacock eye the size of a "shilling, and the same size in cut amethyst of crystal, have gold snakes colled around them. Oriental gold filigree Is sprinkled with tiny stones in different pale shades which are focused in one brilliant stone. This same filigree with vivid stones In greens and blues and reds is mado into the old fashioned long brooch with a flower in the center, and is known as Egyptian Jewelry. Danglers on brooches are still in evi dence, though not so generally, the latest Idea being a wee gold tassel holding a tiny pearL In real jewelry idealized girls heads set in a crescent of horseshoe of pearls or diamonds Is the newest design.' lage nurse used to say, if be has a whis tling' cough, sharp and shrill, look out for capillary bronchitis, the most danger ous disease for babies. In either case take the child at once Into a warm room where no draft can strike it and send for a physician. After the first attack of croup a young mother will know; just how to act, but she 'should treat the initial seiz ure under the direction of a physician. The Reason. Sunset. "Vast, lone and limitless nor anywhere A single gleaming sail on. Its Vide space Heaves the Pacific. Ever headlong race The billows eastward, save when one. In trr1 Leaps high, to sink In foam and roard- despair, Unheeded by Its fellows. What mad chase la this why drive they on at such a pace-SU-adfaotly toward the east? What aeelc they there? Where long gray breakers breast the windj beach, , A slender girU gold-haired, hex face aflusb With laughter, wantons with the yraves that leap To her white arms' caress, and upward reach . Her curv'd lips to kits Who would not fusi From midsea. landward, such reward to reapt Long In' for You... . Sunset. The-apples don't taste sweet more; rm longuV, dear, for you. Nowdays I don't eat no more "t " Like I used to do; j And when 1 go a-walkin My feet go awful slow; There ain't a single place around'- -Where I cars much' to go. " -'v An' dad says. "Now, Xellady, . v v How comes It you're s Was?"" I dea't let on to as oate, ht I'm Ioaln dear, for y.