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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 13, 1904)
THE SUNDAY OREGOfflAff, -POKTLAND, NOVEMBER 13, 1904. Among the Picturesque Shetland Islands Sturdy Peasants Who Have Pride of Ancestry and Maintain Rugged Independence. ' ERWICK, Shetland, Oct. 2S. Special 1 correspondence of The Sunday Ore goalan.) This is the "Ultima Thule , of tho Romans, the supposed end of the habitable globe northwards. It is a group of rugged Islands .strung out for 75 miles -'north and south, and 30 miles east and .west. It is swept alternately by the 'storms of the Atlantic on the west and the North Sea on the east. It is in the same latitude as the southern point of T Greenland, yet its climate is so tempered by the Gulf Stream that It has little snow and no severe frosts. Here lives a people of Norse ancestry with which a Scotch strain has become mingled. The Islands 'were conquered by a Norse King about the year, 700, and were ruled by his Earls with despotic power for, over 700 years until a Nor wegian Princess married a Scotch King, and the bride's father, being too poor to give the customary dowry with her, pawned the islands of Orkney and Shet land to Scotland for it. The money has , never been paid, the pawn ticket seems to have been lost, and Scotland has kept ,ihe islands like the thrifty pawnbroker sne is. Much of the year they are a land of igloom, swept by fierce gales which drive (huge banks of cloud before them, or ishrouded in damp fog which comes by j turns from each point of the- compass. .Being devoid of timber, save where trees ihave been carefully cultivated in incis ures, they have a dreary sameness in their landscape when tho sea is not in sight, but climb one of the rounded hills on the many islets on a sunny Iay and there is spread before you a panorama of rounded hill, green valley. bold'cliff and smiling sea such as has a beauty all its own. Nature may not smile often here, but when she does, she doe3 it so bc wltchingly that you forget she ever frowns. 'Still Brave, but Slow to Anger. Calling to mind the fierce deeds 'with which the Norsemen of old are credited, one would expect to And some trace of the same characteristic in the present Shetlanders and Orcadians, but time and peaceful pursuits seem to have mellowed their temper. There can be nothing of the craven about them, for they almost all make their living by fishing in these stormy seas, but it may be that a con stant diet of fish has quenched the thirst for blood which raged in their ancestors. Yet it would not be wise to trade upon the apparent pacific disposition of the people, for they at times have broken out in rebellion under strong provocation. Such an outbreak occurred in the early years of the 17th century, when Earl Patrick Stewart, son of a bastard rela tive of King James "VI of Scotland and I of England was arrested for treason. Stewart had ruled in despotic fashion and Scalloway Castle was a mon ument of his tyranny. . Tradition says that, while he was building the castle, he compelled the people to bring him a certain number of eggs every das'. He used the whites of these eggs to mix the mortar with -which the castle was built. Ho placed a huge iron ring high up on the outside of one of the tall stone chim neys, and on this hanged those who in curred his displeasure. In the wall is a small chamber, where he hid from the King's officers, when his arrest was or dered, but he was captured and executed at Dumbarton in 1615. The infuriated people sacked the castle and tore off the roof, but the walls stand to this day, a witness to the efficiency of white of egg in binding stone walls. Peat the Fuel of the Islands. The islands are a nest of mountain summits having ihelr bases in the bed of the ocean, but raising their summits no where more than 1300 feet above sea level. The hills are of easy slope, covered with a deep growth of peat, on which rich grass grows wherever the heather will allow It. The peat is from six to 12 feet deep all over the hills, and is the fuel of the natives. The more well-to-do burn coal imported from Scotland, but It is costly and beyond the means of the working people. Every Spring they go out on the hills and cut peat In strips with narrow spades which have two blades, set at right an gles. The peats are piled in heaps to dry, and, when dry. are taken to the houses and plied against the walls. The crofters who boast the ownership of .ponies haul their peats In two-wheeled carts, but the poorer people have to depend on the women to carry home their fuel on their backs, in baskets woven of straw. One frequently sees women walking slowly along the roads, stooping slightly to bal ance a basket of peats between their shoulders, their fingers knitting busily, at a woolen shawl, of which the finished part is fastened to their waists. The peat is burned in an open hearth of stone, and throws out- a red glow without burst ing into flame. Peat fires rarely are al lowed to die out, for when they are not wanted, the embers are covered with fishes and .smolder for hours. "When a fire Is wanted again, the embers are uncov ered and fresh peat is piled on, soon to give out a grateful heat. The cutting of peat has covered the hills with black blotches and streaks which enhance the weird, gloomy aspect of the landscape. These blotches show up sharp and distinct amid the rich green of the grass and the dark green and purple of the heather. The latter grows as thick, but not as high as in Scot land, and is a mass of bloom in Sum mer, ranging in colors from the pale hue of the tiny-blossomed ling to the deep purple of the bell, which Is regarded by many as the true heather. It grows so thick and spreads so rapidly that It kills the grass and the crofters often burn great patches of it in order to give the grass a chance to live and furnish pas ture to the sheep and ponies Grandeur of the Cliffs. But it must not be supposed that the scenery has no grandeur or soft beauty. The islands are everywhere indented with deep inlets, called voes, similar to the fjords of Norway, so that nowhere is the distance greater than seven miles from one point on the shore to another. At almose every .point where the land juts out into -the sea it terminates in a bold cliff, fretted with caves by the action of the waves and the weather, and swarm ing wiin gmis ana au manner of sea birds, which keep up a continuous ear piercing chorus of screams and rise in dense clouds. when disturbed. Such a cliff is the termination of Fitful Head, the southwestern extremity of the main island-vcalled mainland which has been made famous by Sir "Walter Scott as the abode of Noma of Fitful Head In his "Pirate." Such also Is the. Noup of Nose, about seven miles from Lerwick, to which a party of us took a picnic. Rowing across the harbor, otherwise called Bressay Sound, we walked across the Island of Bressay. past a loch where a fisherman was after trout, to Noss Sound, a narrow channel, across which a shepherd, who with his family occu pies the only hpuse on the Isle- of Nos3. ferried us. Then we climbed an even slope covered with heather and dotted with the white tufts of cotton grass, jumping ditches at frequent intervals. It appeared like an ordinary rounded Shetland hill, but when we reached the summit we found there was no other side the other half seemed to have been cut off sharp from the summit and flung into the ocean, leaving a perpendicular cliff nearly 600 feet high, from which we looked out across the North Sea towards Norway. Birds of all kinds flew from Innumerable caves in the face of the cliff and made SHETLAND CROFTER SLAKING FEAT KASHLE. VICTORIA feTJCKKT. KIKKWAXX. SCALLOWAY. INTERIOR OF CROFTERS' HOUSE, ORKNEY. hear ourselves think. Herring boats dot- ted the water1 peaceful for once far out of the horizon. A-stout fence guards the ' edge of the cliff to keep the light-headed from losing their balance, either mentally or physically, and diving to depths whence their bodies would never be re covered. The cliff has several angles which allow one standing on Its edge a little below its highest point to look it squarely In the face, and to hear the faint sound of the waves rushing Into its caves to suck away- its foundation. Down on one side, far below the highest point, but still far above tho water, is the Holm of Noss, a rocky islet which seems to have been split off the main Isle of Noss and to have been stayed as it was toppling Into the sea. The di viding gulf .Is so narrow that it looks as though a good athlete could leap across "at one yump," as the Norwegian said. Its head overhangs the sea, for the waves have worn away tho rock and hollowed It out Into Innumerable caves, and the whold pile Is tilted so far seawards that its fall seems imminent. Imagine the flat top covered with grass, which isal most hidden by thousands of screaming gulls, and you have some conception of the Holm of Noss. From this point also one can see another of Nature's freaks the Giant's Leg. The sea seems to have found a weak spot In a harrow, precip itous rib of rock jutting out to sea and cut a tunnel through It. leaving a rugged pillar standing, of which the capital Is joined to the cliff by an arch which has resisted the elements. That pillar is the Giant's Xeg. Landscape of Islands. Looking to the north from the summit of Noss, the sea seems to be literally sown with islands. They must be literally mountains, of which only the gently sloping,- grassy summits rise above water. To the west one can see. across Bressay to the gray granite bouses of the high est points In Lerwick, and beyond It, clear across the Main Island. In. the far dlstanco is visible the bold outline of Foula Island, nearly 40 miles away, and 27 miles west of Scalloway the western outpost of the Shetlands. It has two huge cliffs rising precipitously from the Atlantic, one to a height of about 1300 feet, similar in. form to Index Mountain fn the Cascades. To the 'southwest one can see Fitful Head, the extreme point of the island in that direction, which is matched by a similar rugged promontory on the Southeastern corner of the island called Sumburgh Head. On ilousa, -an Islet off the east coast of Mainland, la the most perfect Pictish burgh existing. It is a circular -stone tower about CO feet in diameter and .42 feet high, built of large slaty stones with-, out mortar or cement.. The Picts were the aboriginal, savage Inhabitants of the islands, who inhabited also the whole north of Scotland in Roman times. They, were conquered and almost exterminated by the Norsemen. These burghs were the last refuge of the Picts In their expir ing conflict for existence. They have walls, each about five feet thick, ben tween which wound corkscrew stairs which led tor a series of upper cham bers, where the warriors dwelt A low doorway, which must be passed on hands and knees, leads into an Interior court yard, upon which small windows open from the upper chambers. There are sev eral other such burghs in the islands, but one In so perfect a state of preserva tion. Lerwick, Where Fish Is King. Lerwick,, the capital of the Shetlands. is a peculiar old-world town, which has just begun to put on modern airs "in the endeavor to attract tourists, who resort support is tho herring fisheries, to which the great bulk of the male population is devoted. In Summer Its harbor formed by th& shelter of Bressay Island, swarms with hundreds of flshingboats, with black sails, and Its wharves are piled with great tiers of kegs and boxes of herring, ready for market. The herring are salted and packed by women, who come here from all parts of the Scotch coast for the Sum mer. They are dressed In waterproof from head to foot, which does not show off their attractions, as it Is often marked by fish scales and eplashed with blood and salt water, but they are stalwart and well formed and many of them have hand some features. Lerwick, like most old European towns, has grown up haphazard, never having been platted., after the style of American towns. The result is that its main street is so narrow that when a cart Is in it there is barely room for one pedestrian to pass on each side. It Is paved from wall to I wall with great flagstones and there is no sidewalk with bounds marked by a curb. Opening from It are many narrow alleys, only Intended for pedes trians, generally leading from the water up the hllL It has been putting on some modern airs by building an esplanade with stone balustrade along the harbor front and by cutting many new streets of rea sonable width through the new parts of the town- But no sacrilegious hand will interfere with the old High street, called The Street for it is one of the curiosities which attract tourists. The original buildings of Lerwick were all .strung along the water front, and had their front doors towards the water, for it was on that side that their business was done. The fisheries were first devel oped by the Dutch, who smuggled in all manner of supplies on their boats, for the Shetlanders until a century ago were most obstinate free traders. The boats ran alongside the waterside houses at night and unloaded their contraband cargoes through these doorways. Residents on the opposite side of High street are said to have had. tunnels under the street to the water through which goods were carried to their cellars. How the Crofters Live. The rural population of the Islands en joys a modest style of independence. The custom Ib for the landowner to rent small farm, called a croft, giving with it the right to cut peat and graze a certain number of sheep and ponies on the wild. uninclcsed hill land. Since the agitation among the crofters, similar to that of the Irish Land League. Parliament has es tablished a Crofters' Commission, which Judicially fixes rent and secures to the crofters fixity of tenure at those rents and free sale of their Improvements when a croft -changes bands. There has been a general reduction of rents, and while the crofters do not by any means roll in "wealth, they enjoy a rude Independence, which satisfies their modest ambition. They have small stone houses, thatched with straw or heather the latter la warm er and drier and surrounded by their fields of oats and hay and their vegetable gardens. The men supplement their In comes from tho farm by fishing, and the women knit the woolen shawls, gloves and other articles of clothing which have made the Shetlands famous. They use their ponies to haul their peat and farm produce In -small two-wheeled carts. Pro ducing almost everything they need in j the shape of food and clothing, they can uve anmost wnnout money. Shetland Vooten' Goods. Shetland sheep are wild and "rough as sheep can bc, reaming at will over the hills. They are .not only white or black, but some are of a -dark brown color, called murlat, and all have horns. Their wool is unusually, long and soft and -of fine fiber, and the crofters make It as long as possible by pulling it out by the roots. Instead of shearing it. The woman spin th? yam on old-fashioned spinningwheela and after knitting their fine, shawls "happ3" they are called here and scarfs, stretch them on wooden frames to bleach in the open air. Some of the scarfs of woolen lace are of such fine texture that one large enough to go over a woman's head and shoulders can be easily pulled through a finger ring. Some of the most striking specimens of these woollen goods are made on Fair Isle, a lonely bit of rocky moorland mid way between the extreme points of the Orkneys and Shetlands. And thereby hangs a bit of history. When the Span ish Armada was scattered by that terri ble storm In 15S8. one of the ships com manded by Admiral Juan Gomez de Me dina was wrecked there and with his 200 men spent . several months among the natives. Tho Spaniards treated the people cpurteously, and seeing that . the woolen industry was one of their chief means of support, taught them how to make brill iant dyes out of some Indigenous planta with which to add to the attractiveness of their wares. The Fair Islanders have even since been. noted for the gaudy col ors in which they knit caps, gloves, shawls, etc., and I have bought two Fair Isle caps for the delight of my children. The Shetlanders have not yet discov ered the real value of their goods, or the be3t way to put them on the market, but they are picked up eagerly by tourists Some of the ladles of tho Islands' make a neat little sum In pin money by selling these wares on commission to tourists and friends In the South, and at the same time, aid the poor people greatly thereby. Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkneys, Is a very similar town to Lerwick, though not nearly as large. Lt Is chiefly remark able for Its grand cathedral of St-. Mag nus, the chancel of which Is nqw used as a church by the Presbyterians. It is a huge stone building, in the Gothic style, erected about the year 1100. -by one of the Norse earls in memory of an earl who was canonized mainly because he was murdered, for he was not much of a saint after all. It has massive walk? of stone, and the roof of the aisles Is sup ported by huge stone columns. I climbed by a winding stone stairway, which grad ually narrows until it is barely wide enough for one person to squeeze through, to the roof of the great square tower, which commands a splendid view of the town, the harbor and the surrounding country. Across the street from the ca thedral are the ruins o the two palaces which were formerly 'inhabited by the Norse earls and bishops. The"y have every evidence' of hav ing been built as much for fort resses as abodes, for the walls are of rough stone and they have many of the characteristics peculiar to the castles of the medieval barons. Each stands in the middle of a small grove of sycamores, which thrive, despite the fierce winds, though every leaf has been riuped oft their topmost limbs by the storms. Might. Re vive,, .Fcr eats S,j . It Is the common belief that the gale? will not allow trees to , grow on these Islands, but some circumstances support the theory that a determined effort to grow timber of the kind which abounds on tho Pacific Coast would succeed. Fos silized logs have been found imbedded in the peatbogs, "which seem , to- be the re mains of trees which once grew here. The soil Is rich, being composed of decayed vegetable matter to unknown depth, and the climate is moist and mild, like that of the "Oregon and "Washington coast. The people say that the wind destroys trees, hut the timber on our coast grows right to the beach of the -Pacific Ocean, and the storms of these islands cannot" sur pass those of the Pacific The fact prob ably is that the Islands were once well timbered, but that the forests were .wast ed by the early Inhabitants. This la known to have been the fact on the. Isle of Man, In the Irish Sea, but a penalty attached to tree-cutting and a reward for tree-planting have caused a notable re vival of the forests on that. Island In the last century or so. A similar policy might be equally successful In; these Northern Isles. L. K. H. The Jottings of Old Lim Jucklin Opie Read's Philosophers Discourses on the Illusions of First Love. suck -am wpror that wa could 'hrdlyjpiithc in, increasing numbers. Its' xials, CC "7 80 you 0X0 CaJ Atterson'a boy," said Llm Jucklin as he sat down on the steps of tho grocery store. "My, how you young chaps come on. And you? Ab Sarver's youngest, eh? Hasn't seemed more than a week since I saw you riding a stick-horse, and here you are big enough to make love to the girls. "Don't make love to 'em? . Go on, with you. ril bet your heart has-been wrung and hung out to dry more than once. When I was about your age I felt sick along about tobacco-cutting time,, and I didn't think I was ever go in to get welL The cause qf my sickness was a young gal that came into the neighborhood to visit her uncle. I haven't time-now to tell you how beautiful I thought she was. I didn't believe she belonged on the ground at all just touched it now and then to accommodate the earth, you know. She flew down from a cloud that the sun was a-sblnln' on, and didn't care to go back. Recollect how astonished I was the first time I ever saw her eat. I thought she 'just naturally sucked the honey out of the honeysuckle along with the hummln' birds, and when I saw her worryin' 'with an ear of boiled com big enough to scare a 2-year-old calf, I went out and leaned against the fence. But it didn't hurt my loye any. I thought she did It just to show that she might possibly be a human being. I She didn't want us all to reel had. One night I groaned so that mother came to me and wanted to put mustard planters on me. She 'lowed that mebby she might draw out the inflammation. She thought I had somethin the matter with- my sto mach because I had lost my appetite. I told her that I had an Inflammation she couldn't draw 6ut with a yoke of steers. Then she thought I ought to have an emetic. I said that If she 'had one that would make me throw up my soul she might fetch it along, but otherwise it would be as useless as saying mew to a dead cat. Then she thought I must be crazy, and came mighty nigh hittln' the mark. I tell -you." , "A few days afterward, about this time I was at the height of my fever, I met the girl In the road and -she smiled at me. and I Tan against a beech tree, and lt I .didn't knock the ibark oft I'm the biggest liar in the world. When I came to I had my arm around a sheep, walkin' across the woods pasture. The sUn had just riz for the first time and they had Just called up the birds to give out the songs to them. They won't quite done set tin' the stars out In the sky, and they hadn't? put more than one coat of whlewash on the moon. Music It wasn't there till she came, and the orchards bloomed "as she walked along down the lane. But she didn't appear to know it, and I want to tell you .that I marveled at such ignorance. I didn't have the courage to go straight up to her, and one night at meet- in when I was feastin' my bouI " with merely lookln' at her, up walked a feller and asked If he might take her home. I looked at him, quick like, expectln' to see him drap dead, but he didn't. Then I waited for the llghtenln to strike him, but It didn't. Then I waited for her to kill him with a look, but she didn't. She smiled and said yes. Then I sneaked outside and whetted my knife on my boot. There wasn't power enough on earth to keep me from bathln' my hands in his blood. Mother saw that there was some thin' wrong with me and she came out and asked me if I was sick. I told her I was dyin', but before I bid farewell to the earth I was- go In' to cut a scoundrel into strips and feed him to the dogs. But pap he came and took the knife away from me and said if he heard any more such talk he'd tan my hide till it was fit ten for shoestrings. I don't know how I got home that nfght, but after a . long time I found myself a smotherin' in bed. There was a well In the yard and I thought I'd slip out and drown myself. Just .then I heard a rooster crow, and recollectln that ther was to be a fight over across the creek within a few days, I decided that .mebby I still had some thin' to live' for. "But I didn't give up my idea of venge ance on that feller and one day I met him as I was co rain' along the road. I 'lowed that before I knocked him down It would be well to Inform him as to bow he stood In my opinion, and I started out and I don't know what I might have said if he had given me tho chance. But he didn't. He didn't appear to think that there were stars enough, so he began to knock them out of my eyes and I saw some of them as they sailed away. .Among them was a comet with a tail about as long as a well chain. When I came to a muley cow was rlngin' her beHover my head. I propped my eyes open till I could get home, and then they covered me with fresh meat and left me to think over the situation. "It was no laugh In" matter, boys. I'll tell you that. The next day the girl came over. She said that sfee heard -that a bun had saet me and disagreed, with me. iSrK mrx "what time that was. 0 ilvaJrWTiat a He that feftow. had teid her; sad she insisted on seein' me. She came into the room and I looked at her through a hole in a beefsteak. She laughed. Oh. Idont blame her now, you understand. but just at that moment my love stubbed Its toe and fell and fell hard, I want to remark. She said she was awful sorry for me and I aald she acted like it. "I tell you love can't stand much laughln' at. It's the tenderest plant that over peped out of the soft lap of creation, and In laughter If there Is no sympathy there s frost. When a feller .stops lovln ha sees more than he did before and yet he Is blinder. He sees more in other folks, but sees that they ain't like the one he loved. And the' reason that so few people marry first love Is because that sort of love takes hold as If it wanted tokill. Don't appear that anything else will satisfy it. There's no use tryln to dodge it boys; a thief in the night can't slip up on you half so sly. It Is the old est thing in the world, but it is so new that nobody knows yet how to handle lt It makes ignorance as wise as a god and hangs a lamp with perfumed . oil where darkness always fell before. A good many of the old chaps make fun of It; but when they do you may know that they ain't nothln but money-getters, and that marks the death of the soul. Does me good to look at you young fellers; I like to think of the sweet misery you've I got to go through with. Oh. yes, there's more than one love. It's like the rheu matism. One attack may be worse than the others, but It's all rheumatism just the same, and no matter how light you've got It you know when Itrs mere. So you are Ab Sarver's boy. What's your pap doln' today?" "Arguln' politics with a feller when I left home." "Well, he was always a mighty hand to argue. I haven't seen him In a long time. It's a good ways to your house, ain't it?" "About ten miles." "Yes. and the miles get longer, and the days shorter as we grow older. But no matter how old we get, if the heart re mains sound, we never forget that rheu matism I told you about. I wouldn't give the memory of it for hardly anything in the world. One of these days you will see her comin' down the road, a makin' the orchards bloom as she passes along, and you'll wonder how you can live an other mlnlt, and you'll wish yourself dead just to make her feel bad. If she laughs at anything any one else says It will send a knifeblade through your heart, and if she sighs, you'll think It's over some other feller. There'll be no, such thing as pleas in" you, but I'd father4 have R in store, for me than a mountain tsbm made j.of sold. WL feoyst It's akouCth I jtaaj a-goln' on home. There's a woman there that I fell In love with years ago, and 1 haven't fallen out with her yet. "So you are Ab Sarver's boy. Tou make me think, my son. It was your daddy that told the girl I had met a bull, and lt was your mammy that made the orchards bloom." OPIE READ. The Men Who Tamed the Cow-Towns Arthur Chapman, In November Outing. Smith had gone his fearless way among bad men of every description, and had first made himself and then the law re spected. But as soon as it was noised along the cattle trail that Smith had been made Marshal of Abilene there was, fig uratively speaking, a flinging of fringed gauntlets Into the arena. Placards, call ing on all visitors to Abilene to give up their guns when In the town limits were contemptuously shot to pieces, and finally conclusions with the new Marshal himself were forced, A bunch of cowboys, headed by a huge bully, whose boot-tops bore the lone star of Texas, congregated defiantly In front of a saloon, with revolvers ag gressively displayed. "You'll have to give up your guns. boy3," said the new Marshal, advancing toward the leader as he spoke. The bully, waxing profanely abusive, made that back-reaching movement which Is known In the West as a "gun-play," but he had allowed Smith to come too near. Smith's big fist shot forward. catching the cowboy full in the jaw, and sending him down like a well-roped steer. The science of the prizering is something practically unknown to the average cow boy. Consequently, Tom Smith, who was an expert boxer, had wisely chosen a method of attack which would prove a surprise. Had he reached for hl3.-gun when the bully made his "play," there Is no doubt that Smith's Marshalshlp would have ended then and there, and tha coming of the law to the cattle county would have been long postponed. But as lt was; the cowboys- were so amazed at the quickness with whlfch the blow had been struck and the corresponding sud denness with which their champion had sunk senseless to the dust; that they could only stand in open-mouthed -amazement when Smith completed his work by- stand ing over the prostrate Texan and reliev ing him of his weapons- Nor-was there any sign of protest when the new Marshal quietly Informed the "boys" that they would have to deposit their weapons at a certain place, and at once. The weap ons were quietly surrendered, to be called for when the cowboys departed, and that day and night, for the first time in its wild career, the cow-town of Abilene was filled with men who were weaponless. The law had spoken through brave-. Tom Smith, and the reign Qf the "bad man" in the West was no longer undisputed. Tho Tnan who la most frequently "looking: for a position Is the one who la Incapable of hold ing down a Job. Pack. 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