The Sunday Oregonian., February 21, 1904, PART FOUR, Page 34, Image 34

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THE SUITOAY 0RE60NIAK," -POKCLAKD, FEBRUABY 21, 1904.
THE LEiNTEN GI"RL IS A SHIRTWAIST GI"RL
HER SHIRTWAISTS ARE SEVERELY SIMPLE
EXCEPT THE MAN-TAILORED AFFAIRS, ?
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WITH HFJWDBEL T
S ASH WEDNESDAY ushers In the
penitential season, the society belle
'prepares to eschew the pomps .and
vanities of this -wicked world. Her devo
tion may take the form of early morning
church and the Lenten sewing: class, or
she may choose to meditate over her sins
at some fashionable health resort.
In cither case, sho puts aside her frills and
flounces and becomes a strictly tailor-made
creation. The shirtwaist -which she wears
beneath her trim tailor suit is mannish in
cut and texture, while her stock is severe
enough to suit the standards set down by
the Pilgrim Fathers.
Her masculine- admirer may be a trifle
bewildered by her sudden excess of devo
tion, but 'ho is keenly aflve to her change
in dress. Lent is a favorite time for en
gagements, for it is then that the young
fellow with two or three thousand, a year
U emboldened to hope that the girl of his
choice may not, after all, be too high
above his head.
Perhaps this Lonten simplicity is a trifle
misleading. A visit to one of the fashion
able shirtwaist makers would seem to
point in that direction. The correct shirt
waist is generally a product of man tail
ors, and the men's shirtmakers have been
overrun this Winter with orders for wom
en's shirtwaists. This in spite of the fact
that one of their shirtwaists commands
very nearly as high a price as one of the
silk or cashmere matinee waists turned
out by the skillful fingers of a French
dressmaker.
, These man-tailored shirtwaists are hand
some, although they owe their distinction
to fabric alone. The sheen of their heavy
linens rivals that of silk, and they can
compete in warmth and durability with
tho woolen walstings.
As to cut, there is little difference be
tween the Fall and Spring waists. Both
display the long shoulder seams, slightly
pouched fronts, plain backs and sleeves a
triflle bouffant over the narrow cuffs. The
Spring designs show greater eccentricity
as to the cut of tho shallow yokes which
decorate so many of the shirtwaists. The
front box plait is wider, and the buttons
less various.
yi PRETTY STffl&JJVSr
The new mercerized waistings show a
slight, reaction -against the all-white rule
which has' held sway all "Winter. Fine
hair lines of black or color, "tiny fleur de
Us, horseshoes or other minute designs
premise to be as popular as' the dead
whites. It is the first attempt at individ
uality, which is- being paralleled In other
lines of feminine wear. The between sea
son hats .Are mostly In a solid color
esthetic blues or lavenders, gay reds, or
verdant greens.
Some of the white waists attain to a
dash of color by a quarter-of-an-lnch-wlde
border on the stock, cuffs and either
side of the front plait. A pretty Lenten
waist has tiny fleur-de-lis In delicate helio
trope on a satiny white background. A
narrow line of the same Spring-like shade
outlines tho inch-wide front box plait, the
narrow overlapping cuffs ahd the shoulder
straps. It was worn with one of the new
ribbon stocks. The turnover is of scrim
worked in the fashionable cross-stitch with
several shades of heliotrope. It fastons in
the front by a tiny enameled fleur-de-lis,
which exactly matches the splurging bow
of heliotrope ribbon appearing beneath It.
WCTiQNFOF
AUJ5TROU5 ZAMASK TRUSTED
xjim smcntu jxx-ljj.
ZXZJN THE" TTftWT
Hair stripes of red or dark blue will he
a favorite shirtwaist pattern for the girl
who elects to spend her Lenten hours on
tho golf links. Her ribbon stock and styl
ish crush-leather belt will be worn to
match. These leather belts conform
charmingly to the figure, and are still
supple enough to admit of athletic move
ment. They come in almost every shade,
alinough the reds and the- golden browns
are perhaps the prettiest.
Brown Is the popular color for the volu
minous Spring veils. A touch of brown or
ecru is, therefore, not amiss In the Spring
shirtwaist
A severely plain white linen shirtwaist
is relieved by a fancy stripe of mixed
brown and ecru. A snug fit over the chest
is Insured by the narrow plaits which are
laid on either side of the middle plait from
the shoulder seams down to the bust line.
The release of the goods below allows for
the slight ppuch which extends down to
the slightly pointed French waist line. The
fullness of the moderately-full sleeves Is
fitted Into the armhole by a series of
plaits which extend to the elbow. Below
this the sleeves puff slightly over the plain
cuff. The latter is fastened by cuff links
of white and brown enamel In a marquis
pattern. The plait down the front is at
least four Inches wide and Is trltrfmed'wlth
four buttons of nacre.
These pearl buttons are extremely fash
ionable for use on the Spring shirtwaists.
As their behavior in the washtub is a
matter of some doubt, they ara generally
held In place by rings and are removed
before washing.
Hound cuffbuttons or links seem out of
favor. The more slender and graceful
marquis Is the subject of the majority of
the hew designs. There are some particu
larly pleasing ones In the new gray finish
silver set with a stone to match the color
scheme of the waist.
The waist described above is worn with
a stock of golden brown silk stitched in
white. It has one of the severe "noveau"
linen turnovers, and the bow, which fin
ishes the front. Is drawn through two
white -llk crocheted rings. The brown
silk b'elt has a dainty buckle in. the rose
gqld, and an Intricate arrangement of
larger crocheted rings gives a natty finish
In the back.
Black and white are favorites in the list
of Spring combinations. TrT bring to
mind a tracery of twigs and branches glis
tening under a warm Spring rain. There
is something fresh and virginal about the
combination.
A waist which Illustrates this text has a
half-inch-wide fancy stripe of black on
white foundation. It is more than usually
trim and tight-fitting. The 3leeves arc al
most skin tight, and the cuffs fit snugly
around the wrist. They are fastened with
striking links of black and white cameo
In a gun-metal setting. Fullness Is afford
ed to the moderately bloused front by a
cluster of fine tucks laid on each side well
along the shoulder seam. The front Is
fastened by the usual pearl buttons, while
the jaunty bow stock carries out the gen
eral black and white effect.
The belt Is one of the new linen affairs.
In "white stitched with black. It widens
in the back and is boned in a girdle shape.
The tapering ends are fastened In the
front bjr a simple gunmetal harness
buckle.
The same style of belt I3 worn with tha
all-white shirtwaists. Qne of these is of
lustrous damask. Instead of plaits, folds
of the material are stitched down either
side of the wide front box plait They are
laid so as to taper slightly toward the
bottom, and thus give a stylish shape to
the front The simple shirtwaist sleeves
have narrow pointed cuffs.
Another all-white waist of fancy madras
has one of the new pointed panel fronts,
which fastens at the left side. Clusters
of narrow plaits or tucks extend from tho
shoulder seams down to the waist line.
The same fashion is followed as regards
the tight-fitting back.
Some of the most stylish waists have
stitched shoulder tabs or bands. Most of
these extend several inches down over the
sleeve and accentuate -the long, sloping
shoulder seam. These tabs are well
stitched Into place and are frequently
trimmed with the buttons like those used
In fastening the front Linen crocheted
rings sometimes take the place of buttons
for waist trimming.
HARRIET HAWLBT.
UP-TO-DATE HIMTS ON SOCIAL ETIQUET
BY MARGARET VON STUYPEN TRACY
1 HE wife of ono of the professors
In a college town has the habit of
Inviting the undergraduates to her
house to meals. Ono girl, a member of
the senior class, was invited.. After she
had quitted the house the feminine head
of the family said to her daughter:
"Whomever I ask here after this our
guest of the evening shall not be one of .
the company. Did you see that she left
her knife and fork trailing from her plate
at tho table?"
Nothing indicates the well-bred person
more than table manners.
A woman may pass muster by dressing
well, and may sustain herself tolerably
In conversation, but If not properly au
fait with les convenances, she is betrayed
by her manner at table.
There is a correct way of doing every
thing, no matter how trivial, even to help
ing one's self to salt or butter.
The rows of knives and forks on each
side of tho plate are a thing of the rpast
together with oddly-shaped knives and
forks; many smart hostesses do riot even
uso a special lork for oysters. Only tho
knife and fork are placed for each person,
and are changed for fresh ones with each
course. They are placed exactly ono inch
from tho edge of the table.
The salt collars, one at each corner, are
also placed very near the edge of the
table. In helping to salt take some on
the aide of the plate; don't put It on tho
tablecloth; don't sprinkle it over the
viands, but take a little as needed. It is
considered a reflection on the cobk lo
make too lavish use of condiments. The
Frenchman will tell you that Americans
do their cooking at table such, an elab
orate ceremony do they make of salting
and peppering every bit of food.
Bread is always broken in small pieces,
never cut and never crumbled into soup
or sauce. Oysters and clams are eaten
without bread. Don't butter an entire"
slice of bread, but a small piece as you
oat It
Soup is taken from the sldo of the spoon,
which is filled by drawing It up from the
edge of the soup plate opposite. Don't fill
the spoon with the movement toward you.
Wield knife, fork and spoon as quietly
as possible. Don t let fork or spoon
jangle upon tha dish.
In using the knife and fork, a movement
of the wrist, not of the elbow. Is the prop
er thing. Som people seem to thipk that
vigorous exercis with the elbows aids
mastication. The handle of the knife
should rest. in the center of the hand,
and no part of tho hand should touch the
knife above the handle. In using a fork.
only half of the handle and that half
farthest from tho tongs is covered by
the hand.
Don't leave the knife and fork at sixes
and sevens on tho plate at the end of a
meal. Place the fork a little to the left
of the plate's center with the end of the
prongs down, and the knife to the right
of the fork and parallel with it Let the
edge of the blade be turned to the .fork.
There may be people who take fish or
soup twice, just as there are persons who
believe In the regeneration of Tfutfcey.
This Is a bad breach of table etiquette.
By so doing you delay the appearance ol
the second course to the great InconvenI
ence of your fellow guests, and to the
chagrin of 5 our hostess.
In serving soup, one ladleful to each
clato Is sufficient
A knife. If of silver. Is used for fish In
conjunction with a f irlt The old fashion
was a lorK, aiaea cy a piece 01 arena.
If the knife is steel, don't touch it to fish.
The King of England takes his fish with
two forks. All vegetables are eaten with
a fork, and asparagus with knife and
fork, although it may be taken up with
the lingers if ono prefers to do so. A
safe rule at table, however. Is never to
touch any bit of food with the fingers,
olives and hors d'oeuvres generally ex
cepted. All pies are eaten with a fork only,
and also most puddings except custards,
which require a spoon. Cheese is eaten
with a fork. Peaches and pears are peeled,
cut In half, then broken by the fork, and
thus eaten. An orange may be cut In half
and eaten with a spoon.
Ice cream Is eaten with a fork In Amer
ica, in England a spoon Is used. With all
deference to English customs, a very safe
rule Is. eat nothing with a .spoon that can
be taken with a fork.
A hostess does not press a guest to eat
more, nor assure her that there Is an
abundant supply: it were invidious for her
to doubt it Where considerations of
health, do not forbid it It is courteous to
partake a little of every course.
No guest passes a plate or offers to serve
anything unless requested to do so.
To detect oneself In solecism is, as a
rule, as mortifying a thing as can hap
pen. Under such circumstances, men and
women behave very differently, and so
betray themselves, in the sequel more
than they do in the act
A young woman with an unduo amount
of country girl Ignorance and lack of
experience was Invited to luncheon at a
fashionable house. Bouillon was served
In cups. The girl thought' it was tea
and asked the maid for sugar. Before
she put it Into the bouillon tho hostess,
by whose elbow tho young woman was
sitting, said:
"That my dear. Is bouillon."
"Yes, I know," retorted the guest "but
I always take sugar In mine."
As a matter of fact she had never
taken bouillon In any way and had not
the1 remotest idea -what it was; and she
made her mistake all the more (flaring
hy not following the plan which Indicates
breeding simplicity.
Abraham Lincoln had an experience not
entlrelr dissimilar to that of the young
Woman in question. At a dinner party
at which he was present there was a
saddle of muttonl When the butler passed
a glass of jelly Lincoln took it and ate
Its contents. Another glass was passed
from diner to diner and each took a
spoonful. Lincoln observed this, and
with a characteristic quiet laugh, said:
"I seem to have taken more than my
share."
There was no apology and no embar
rassment A particularly fastidious wom
an who was present said afterward that
the sad-looking and rather awkward
frontiersman was by nature a better gen
tleman than any one she' had ever met
oven In places where men were supposed
.toUe gentlemen as a matter of course.
One of the fundamental rules to ob
serve Is the manner of sitting down at
the table.
In va certain recent book a young girl
writes to her mother: "I am sure you
made a mistake in what you told me,
that all well-bred people behave- nicely
at dinner, and sit up. because they don't
a bit Lots of them put their elbows
on the table and nearly all sit anywhere
on their chairs."
Do not sit 5n the edge of the chair,
nor sidewlse. Nor should the back rest
continually on the back of the chair.
An easy upright position is the proper
one. The feet should rest on the floor
and sit far enough away from the plate
to be able to use the knife and fork
without awkwardness.
"It is worse than a crime: It Is Ill
bred," tho society woman will tell you
about thl3 careless manner of sitting.
Nothing points out the ill-bred woman
quicker than the position she takes when
she sits down- to the table.
Value of Torpedoes.
New Tork Times.
As a matter of naval strategy and tac
tics, this prompt enterprising, and gal
lant feat of the Japanese arms will be
memorable as the first practical vindica
tion of the theoretical fighting value of
"the destroyers' Imaginatively, the no
tion of "the swordflsh against the whale"
is very impressive. Practically, this is the
first demonstration of its value in modern
naval war. There have been but two 1 a London firm of tea. dealers . has been
"modern" naval wars, that of Japan "with 1 fined for including in the weight of .pack
China and that of tho United States with j ages of tea cold the weight of the paper wrap
Spain. In neither did the torpedo-boat I per.
play anything like-Its expected part Af
ter Walnwrlght, at Santiago, knocked the
two Spanish "destroyers" Into scrap Iron
with the guns of a converted yacht the
dread that those engines had previously
inspired was displaced by contempt and
naval officers the world over began to
revert to the estimate of those secret and
stealthy engines bf destruction that was
expressed 40 years ago by Farm gut in
Mobile Bay: "Damn- the torpedoes; go
ahead!" The successful raid of tho Jap
anese destroyer upon the; Chinese battle
ship Wel-Hal-Kel was held to prove lit
tle, for the reason that It was effected
against the Chinese. But any such no
tion of the inutility of dirigible torpedoes
is much discredited by the Japanese per
formance, it is clearly shown that ex
treme vigilance is necessary to protect a
fleet from the attacks of these -automatic
missiles when they are controlled by an
enterprising enemy.
SOME NEW THINGS FCR THE BED-ROOM
Most Fasnionable Spreads Are Large Ones of Irish Linen.
BEDSPREADS illustrate the whims qf
women more than other things In the
bedroom. Once they were of lace over
color, then elegant lace patterns took the
place of cheaper fancies in lace that were
relegated to tho bed. and now embroider
ed spreads are quite the smartest things
of the season for tho bed.
The most fashionable spread is a big
one of Irish linen, with a hem three
Inches deep, hemstitched by hand at the
top. Above this Is a border of raised
embroidery in. scroll or floral patterns.
Floral patterns are preferred, and favor
ite designs are shamrocks, marguerites,
tulips and tho carnation. Theso are
wrought in wreaths, bunches and sprays.
In tho center of the spread Is a largo
wreath of the flowers, which forms a
COSTUMES OF MEN'S SUITING AND FACED CIX5TH.
frame for the monogram of the owner.
The family crest or coat-of-arms often
takes the place of the monogram, or is
combined with it
Pillow shams to match the spread are
made Jn a small replica of it, and the
fancy of matching handsome needlework
is carried so far as to have scarfs anc
table cdvers that, in a measure, repeat
the floral decorative scheme in the bed
coverings.
Sets for the bed and dressing table,
made. In cross-stitch embroidery, are pop
ular, and the fad for these extends. Into
colors. The Russian work Is seen in red
and blue', and Scandinavian work is rep
resented In many delicate colors.
Window draperies for the boudoir have
also undergone a change. With em
broidered linen the curtains are often
bordered with fine embroidery, are made
of sheer dotted Swiss, or some similar
material.
People who like lace -sets and curtains
are using the Cluny and heavy Italian
filet nets for draperies and spreads, and
the plece3 that decorated ' the frock3 of
last season are richly joined together
with needlework to do duty upon beds.
Curtains to match are supplemented by
soft draperies of Chinese or Japanese
raw silk, whose lustrous, yet light folds
are particularly dainty In a bedroom.
In color schemes Dutch draperies and
tullp-work spreads In gold color are used
when Dutch furniture and decorations
reign. In rooms fitted up in French style
the windows and bed are curtained and
draped In the daintiest of flowered silks
and fine laces, and richly painted chests
and chiffoniers, with wonderful shapes
and handsome gilt legs and finishings, ftt
up the room.
A slf 1 who wanted ah up-to-date room,
and could not afford to buy what she
wanted, hemstitched a plain spread of
Irish linen and appliqued around it all
the fancy bits of embroidery she could
find, supplementing them with some sho
bought The wreath in the center was
achieved by sewing down a piece of em
broidery in a circle, with the scalloped
edge outward. This necessitated gathers
on the Inner edge, which was attached
by means of feather-stitching to a clrcio
containing her Initial. The entire set was
made In this way and simply looked
original.
It is a fad to have the kimona combing
sacque.'bath slippers and foot warmer of
flowered crepe lined with delicately tinted
silk; and to have all manner of pretty
silk and straw basket and bag catch-all3
hung about a bedroom or boudoir.
The Handbag Beautiful
THE NEW handbags and cardcases
show even more extravagance and
beauty than their immediate predecessors.
They are the costliest affairs in their re
spective lines ever turned out
The handbags are large and have long,
straight metal tops, with most of the or
namentation upon the tops Instead of the
sides. They open by pressure on the top
or with a clasp, and, Jnstead of. a metal
chain or round leather handle, are fitted
up with an exceedingly stylish-looking
leather strap, no wider than a finger, and
very thin. This strap Is knotted in a sin
gle loop at the top, merely or purposes
of individuality, as the loop gives quite
an air of cache to the strap. These straps
are in the same tints as the leather of
which the bag is made, -and when silk is
employed the strap is of the color that
prevails In the silk. -
The bags of thin,- dressed leather, in
dainty colors, are pleated the whole way
along the top In full pleats. This gives
quite an air of distinction to the bag and
makes a pleated fullness at the side, with
rounded corners at the bottom.
Silk bags are treated In the same man
ner. Favorite silks are Jarge-flgured pom
padours, in which pink prevails as a deco
ration, and there Is some soft, quiet tint
as a background. The straps are of the
color of the background.
Handsome brocaded stripes of flowers,
or large, spreading figures, or hand-painted
effects, are made up Into the large
bags, and smaller figures In deeper tints
into small ones. As yet beaded and em
broidered effects have not appeared in
these new bags.
w A variation In new bag styles is a long;
rather narrow flat bag, made like several
open envelopes laid together and fastened
only at the bottom. The center compart
ment has a slender metal rim and clasp.
Into these compartments a woman tucks
her hafadkerchlefs, chamois powder rag,
and any other flat things that she wants
to carry about as- well as her cards and
bills. A handle holds these together.
In a much smaller shape and of heavy
leather are purses that have compart
ments on each side of the clasped purse
for holding cards, hills and the handker
chief. The sides come up two or more
inches above the top of the purse In a
curve that has a curved slit in it for the
hand. This double handle arrangement
holds the sides of the purse close together.
All purses and. bags, except these small
ones, are made to match In general color
scheme the color of the frock with which
the bag is carried, so that brocaded and
Japanese embossed leather bags are es
pecially popular because the mingling of
color in them enables them to be carried
with several different costumes.
Just Be Glad.
James Whltcomb Riley.
O heart of mine, we shouldn't
Worry eo!
What we've missed of calm we coulda'
Hare you know!
"What we've met of stormy plain
And of sorrow's driving rain, ,
We can better meet again . '.-.'
1 It blow!
We have erred In that dark hour "
We have known
When oar tears fell with the shower
All alone! '
Were not shine and shadow blent
As the ftraeteus Master meant? "
Let us teraper our content
With his own. "
For we know not every morrow'.'
Cab be sad.
So. forgetting all the sorrow
We have bad. ", Y '
Let us fold away our fears ,
And put by our follsh fears
And through all the coming years
Just be slad.
"Nothing," says the Berlin Chamber or.
Commerce, In its last annual report
"can take the place of American bacon
as a cheap and nutritious article of food
for the masses of our population. There
fore it would be a matter of deep regret
if the high Import duties of the new tariff
law were not reduced to a reasonable da-gree."-