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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 6, 1903)
THE StnSPAl" "OgEQOljuafc TORTLAKP, .SglffKBEPR 6, A-RE T-RLIING TO MANt FIGURE'S AUTUMN EFFECTS W TAILOR SUITS SHOULD BE AVOIDED BY WOMEN WHO DROOP T AUTUMN STREET GOWX IX GVX METAL MELANGE CLOTIL POINTED STRAPPINGS ON A PEPPER AND SALT CHEVIOT, PEPPER AND SALT MIXTURE PEDES TRIENNE SUIT. WOOLTEX GOWX OF I1KOWX TWEED. will give her an effect of elegant simplic ity. The selection of the material for her tailored suit will be an easy task for milady, for it must lie among a few weaves and fabrics. Broadcloth and other smooth-finish silk and wool mix tures are but unfashionable echoes of past seasons. In their place the ruling favor ites aro shot effects in cheviots, heavy weight homespuns, and rough finish zlbe lines and shaggy camel's hair. Black, blue, brown, green and gray shot with white arc the favorite color combinations, but black and white has a long lead in popular favor. This is not the first season that the manufacturers and modistes have endea vored to bring ziboline into favor. But It Is safe to predict that this year will score, another failure. Its wearing quali ties are none the best. As an experi enced salesman in one or the largest Im porting houses explained: "Zibeline is bound to rub up and down after a cou ple of wcarlngs, and the more expensive the grade, the more it rubs. The cam- yH3 UT," said the middle-aged Amer fi lean, ywith a dissatisfied air, as she glanced down the long room full of models, "these tailor suits require a perfect figure to look well." "Madam," the modiste insinuated gent ly, "in these days every woman has a per fect figure." His statement Is a trifle overdrawn, but it is nevertheless true that in these days of physical culture, massage and correct corset-making every woman should have a trim figure. The Fall tailored suits will be trying to many women, however. That Is to say, the strictly tailored ones. They are too straight and stiff, too mannish and un compromising to find favor with the wom an who affects a'drooplng pose. But she who has an erect figure and a regal car riage can rejoice, for every one of her good points will tell. The trim, slngle Itfeasted, tight-fitting, long-skirted coats el's hairs are not much better, so far. as the long-haired varieties go." It might be "just as well to give heed to this word of warning, but there , are many womeji who will doubtless prefei? to try for themselves. As to the length of the .- long-sklrtod coats, there seems to be a pretty generally accepted rule. ' A noted man tailor ex plained It when he said: "The coat should reacn just to the end of the finger tips when the arm hangs loosely at the side. Of course this is only the rule for skirt coat suits. When it comes to the dressy silk coats for recep tion or evening wear, the length corre sponds to the wrist when the arm is held in the same position as before. And for these coats peau de sole will be decidedly smarter than the shiny taffetas which have been fashionable during the Sum mer." Plain broadcloth will not be tabooed, however as a trimming. Indeed, plain cloths will be a feature of Winter dress garnitures, and cut cloths, appliques ahd edgings will be largely used on the more elaborate reception dresses. Cuffs and collar jot plain cloth do much to prevent monotony in a tailored suit. An extremely pretty one is of Blarney tweed in a pepper and salt mixture, and Is made after, a Wooltex design. The skirt is in walking .length and has strapped seams, while many rows of - stitching give u finish at tho foot. The three quarter length coat has a two and a half Inch belt of the' material at the hip. It stops, however, at the front dart, thus ac centuating the extreme straight-front ef fect. The coat is slngle-broasted and Is fast ened by a single rQW of buttons covered with brown brondcloth, the last coming t the point where the belt. If continued, would have met in the front. A pointed yoke collar and iiarlng cavalier cuffs of the same broadcloth, heavily braided In black, relieve the costume from the re proach of too gieajt plainness. The yoke collar Is cut out in a slight V in the front, so as to give a glimpse of the smart shirtwaist stock beneath. The odd-shaped cuffs which appear on this suit are a feature of the Fall cos tume. Many of the most mannish tailored suits have them, and their shape is never twice alike. They are curved and point ed. Some are longer on the inner arm seam, some on the outer. They may taper to an inch in width, and then extend almost to the elbow. Most of them flare slightly to receive the fullness of the lowed sleeve puff, and when 'they are ex tra long thcjcjlare at the wrist also. They are often cut Into odd shapes, overlapping bands, and all manner of eccentricities. But the cuffs are about the only eccen tric features- of the new suits. The col lars, for the most part, are extremely moderate In size and design. These mod est turnovers may be of velvet, or of cloth of the same or a contrasting shade. A brown cheviot flecked with dull red has a turnover collar and high cuffs of the latter shade. The effect Is warm and bright. r The sleeves are built mostly after one model. The effort to have them puff at the shoulders seems to have been aban doned for the present. The puffs come farther down, just above the flaring cuff. Above the elbow they are only comfort ably loose. v A smart Autumn street gown Is in gun-metal melange cloth. The three quarter length coat has a yoke effect back and front, with collar, cuff and belt of black velvet. It has breast pockets and strap seams, and the front is gar nished with a double row of buttons in the gun-metal finish. The seams of the walking length skirt are strapped to match the coat. The pointed straps extend to within ten Inches of the bottom, below which the skirt has- a stylish flare. A Wooltex tailored suit of brown has a dress length, nine-gored skirt, which de pends for effect on the careful .stitching of the seams. The simple three-quartered length coat Is rather unique this Fall, in that It is double-breasted. It is gath ered In at the waist by a belt of the ma terial, and has a shallow shoulder cape with stole attachment. The turnover col lar and revers are of brown velvet with strappings of silk soutache. The same trimming edges the pointed flaring cuffs. A walking suit of pepper ami salt mixed .cheviot has a coat of a slightly greater length than that decreed by fashion. It was bulk to suit an individual fancy, and will doubtless be copied by milady, if she luts a craving for the extreme. The skirt is in the popular walking length which jus escapes the ground. Many rows wf black sttk stitching give a finish -at the bottom. The seams are strapped with pointed tabs of the material piped with black velvet, which extend to the edge of the hem. Or rather, each seam is covered with triple straps, which overlap at regular intervals The whole tapers slightly toward the waist line. The same plan Is followed as regards the coat seam, with the exception that five tabs overlap on each seam, and at th waist line is another garniture of cut pearl buttons. Similar buttons fasten tht front of the coat ami give a finish to the moderate-sized cuffs. These cuffs, as well as the shallow, much-pointed yoke collar, are of black velvet, outlined by triple rows of silk braid. HARRIET HAWLEY. NEW FA TRESSES MUST BE ALLOWED OCCASIONAL FROM PINS AND BRAIDS FREEDOM THE mischief with hair nowadays is caused by the extravagant use of combs, big pins, daggers and jew eled ornaments. Nineteen heads out of 20, so the doc tors tell us, need rest from too much combing and arranging. When hair is thin, dry, fading or falling, it needs rest. It Is obvious that a girl cannot go around like a mermaid or the Lady of Shallot, with flowing tresses. Fascinating as she might look, it would not be con venient or proper. The solution of the problem, therefore, lies In the adoption of caps, for the morning houjs at least. Caps will not prevent hair from turning gray, neither will they keep it from fall ing out, but their use allows the hair Sto be lightly gathered up. without tight twisting or braiding, or much pinning. Mass the hair loosely, put In a pin or two, and cover the becoming disorder with a coquettish cap a Charlotte Corday, a Martha Curtis mob,, a Puritan mutch, or a bit of sheerest lawn. Whatever its style, it will be found a charming frame for a piquant face. Even let the hair hang loose, but, for a touch of femininity, spread over the crown of the head a bit of net or a Queen Ade laide kerchief. Tulle, chiffon and the crispest Swiss are most called Into requi sition for cap building. In shapes, caps are rivals of those worn nearly a century ago, when ringlets were in vogue and could not always be coaxed into proper shape for the breakfast table. The crisp and becoming cap was then adopted for the morning hours. For a different rea son, it Is 'now increasingly tho mode for the breakfast toilet. The morning toilet of the hair shouU be made with a large, broad-toothed comb, usod for merely straightening the treaties. The scalp, if possible, should not be touched. If the hair Is falling badly, not even the comb should be used. The locks are massed on top of the head, a broad bone hairpin is run through them, and the becoming cap is placed over all. For the few hours of afternoon and evening the hair may be dressed as elab orately as fashion or fancy dictate. Some women wear a cap at night, 'but it must be of silk. A silk handkerchief, knotted at the four corners, is sometimes tho most convenient arrangement. The silk, these devotees of the nightcap say, creates gloss or polish by communicating electricity to the hair. The wearing of caps solves another hy gienic problem. The pompadour style of halrdresslng. the doctors are telling us, causes nervous prostration. At least, they say that any style of coiffure that Injures the roots of the hair Irritates the nerves, and that whatever irritates the nerves induces nervous prostration. Although a woman will not acknowledge it, except to hersvlf, she knows that a stiff pompadour hurts for days before she become accustomed to wearing It. She knows what relief .lt is, even after she became Inured to it, to remove the "rat," brush her hair softly back as nature had intended, and let It hang loosely about her shoulders. The pompadour, in various, forms, has been in vogue for more than ten years. First, the hair was cut short, as If for tho old-fashioned "frizzes." and combed at right angles to the head. Every young woman who wore her hair thus exchanged confidences with her friends about how it hurt. In time, the pain disappeared, as tho pain of the Chinese child's tortured feet disappears. Then came a now form of the pompa dour, and with it the "rat." The pompa dour to bo conventional and correct, must bo drawn over a "rat," and it must be I drawn tightly to properly outline the ! "rat." Tho result, according, to some I authorities. Is nervous prostration. I The hair, drawn away from the face In a direction opposite from that which na ture intended, Irritates the nerves of the scalp, and, by rellex action, affects the en tire nervous system by straining the miis clea ' Tho muscles at the fop and front part of the head are most obstinate. Those at the back are much more pliable and lend themselves easily to manipulation. The roots of the hair are not set vertical ly", but at a slight slant In the head. The parts of the roots which reach the surface point slightly to either side. Indicating that nature designed that the hair should be parted at the middle, Instead of brushed back from the forehead. It Is notewortlfy that the great spread of nervous prostration among women has taken place In the past ten years, ami so T is contemporaneous with the rise and sway of the pompadour. "Sixty per cent of our women are neu rasthenics." said a doctor three years ago. Since that time the number has In creased to 75 per cent. It may be notel that 75 per cent of the women of Amer ica have worn pompadours for a part, at leaxt, of tbe past three years. Hair specialists, therefore, make a pita for hair worn loosely. "There should bo few hairpins." they tell us. "They should be used snarinelv. i for thpv. ttw irric to the sensitive nerves of the sc'alp. ' If there must be a pompadour, wear it loosely, discard the 'rat,' and for some hours daily discard a coiffure altogether In fa vor of a cap." The question arises In this connection. Why don't women wear caps or he-addresses? They are coquettish and make a pretty women irresistibly fascinating and a plain woman charming. in the Middle Ages they knew how to embody all the mystery and delicate charm of maidenhood in a filmy bit of lace and a string of pearls. Of late we have had the fashion of putting a bit of ribbon about the hair in tha fashion of a fillet. In classic times a veil over the head was the mark of a well-to-do matron. At one time a cap op coverchief was so arranged as to make a triangle of the ftice. after the manner of the mail celt of the knights. Elizabeth. Queen of Henry VII, wore one of these angular head dresses, from which her hair fell uncon flned over her shoulders. A widow wore a distinctive cap a wimple, with lan- Kpets. Ihe fashion of nets of gold or silver fila gree, which prevailed in the 13th century, was c-harming. We read that Queen Philippa wore her hair confined in a reticulated covering of goldiimith's work. Queen Joanna of Xl varre wore a net of fretwork, from wulri hung a light veil. At this time the hair was sometimes worn partly in a net and partly falling ovf:r the shoulders. Extravagances in headgear were not re stricted to the .fashions of one sex :-.lone; fanciful caps were also worn by men. From capj' to elaborate head'Tressrs was hut a step. During the first year of the French Revolution coiffures were monumental, and women were froiuertly sen with their hair dressed a la Vlr- . .v i unotuic, Ul H. lit. iai!D" il'JL the subsequent reign of terror was too aw ful, too absorbing, to leave much t't.vjght I to vanltv in. halnlrHtainp- niJ w-mrn again returned to tlie fashion of wearing caps. The Charlotte Corday is a fpfcl mcu of the revolutionary "liberty cap." THE BEWITCHING AND HEALTHFUL CAT, HAIU SHOULIT-I1E TAKEN DOWX FREQUENTLY TO OlEST. THE HAIR NET IS COMING INTO USE AGAIN. The Tkree Grnces. Brooklyn Gagl. FAITH. You bid the smirking waiter te lie spryt Awl fetch a Neca of hucklbrry pie, Yoer eager appetite to sattefy. HOPE. Anonr the huckleberries you desfery WfyU seems a foreign subeUinee in Yet hope It Is a herry, not & fly. CHARITY. Y(ju scraURtae it ekwb7, then yeu sigh. Ami put your pktce of huckleberry pie To. 0e.boft-siiUed brother sitting aih. plOi