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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 17, 1902)
Z3 THE' SUNDAY OREGONIAN, -PORTLAND. AUGUST 17, 1902. SUMMER GOWNS FO"R OeeASIQNS MARVELS OF EXPENSE AND ELABORATE DETAIL if LACE USED IN BILLOWS IJIPLICITY" sounds "well in de ecriging Summer gowns, but the 5 synonyms are not expressed in the materials, the style or the cost of the gowns of this season. Laco has never been used in greater profusion, and or gandies, crepes, thin wools, silks and even the cheap imitations in cottons and mer cerized are trimmed with lace. All-lace gowns are still very smart, and they havo been used a lot lately for wedding dresses. They have the advantage of being sen'-, lceable, as well as elaborate in appear ance, and are equally becoming to mat rons and young girls. The laces used arc nearly always heavy, the thinner ones suggesting only use for balls and evening wear, for which tulle or net might be a rival. The most airy end delightful effects are gotten by using lace in "billows" and flounces, evon to Several ruffles or pleatlngs as a balayeuse under the edge "ot a skirt, but this means yards and yards of lace, and the most tcklllful handling in order to give the chic effect that is bo desirable. The really elaborate look that may be given a gown with cheap lace is astonishing, and many of the imported novelties are very cheaply put together, but command a good price, because they have an extensive look. On white or delicately tinted musllna very cheap lace, preferably that with a yellow tint, the effect is very fancy, and a gown of that sort makes every woman look dainty and graceful. A dream of a Bummer gown is made of pale yellow organdie with insertions of yellow lace a dull shade that .makes a subtle and artistic contrast -with the lemon shade of the materiaL White or gandie and other sheer goods are still combined most successfully with yellow laces, And an especially fetching idea is carried out in pale rose silk mull, on which rows and rows of yellow lace Inser tion are used. Black lace is seldom seen on the light 'towns of fashionable women, and give a very unstylish look to the few women who wear them. Black on white and white on black are as popular as evor, and cor tajnly are strikingly refreshing to see. TThe difference in the becomlngness of the two combinations is difficult to explain, but it is quite true that blacl and white is distinctly more smart than white and black, and suits more women better. Odd ly enough, it makes most women 'look very youthfuL Just a little time ago it was looked upon as a regular old lady's dress, but that idea has quite passed, and a fresh, pretty girl looks far prettier and fresher in a black muslin dotted with white, and a very simple frock of thit description has an air of indescribable style and 'go.' Ethel Barrymore is one pretty girl who seldom varies her gowns, and she almost invariably -wears black and whit com bined in' some way. A black gown of any material trimmed with white lace always attracts attention, apart from the detail of the costume,' and some of the "best styles seen at the races this year were in black with huge, collars and deep cuffs or other trimmings of heavy, pure white Irish lace. The most serviceable and altogether comfortable frock a wo man may have, put of which sho will get a lot of comfort, Is a black organdie tucked from the throat to the hem, the tucks running horizontally around a simple, full bodico that fastens down the back: elbow sleeves, and skirt of tucks a bit horizontal above a full flounce thit Is deeper In the back than In the Iront. Cooiness, fairy-like sheerness Is the look that gowns must have from now until the end of the hot. weather, and the most lovely muslins .are shown. Or gandie, except in plain colors, la little seen, but quite the samo effect Is pro duced with .fabrics that are sold by other names batiste, gauze, mull and even old-fashioned linen lawns that havo been revived with a good deal of enthusiasm. Every woman should have a black dotted net, point d esprit, tucked and lace trimmed, blb-hlgh bodice and elbow sleeves, and an endless Taricty of fine, fussy little ways of finishing and giving a lxcy look to the costume. A gown of this description answers for almost every occasion conceivable after the middle of the afternoon. The nets are sold at all prices in dozens of patterns, but it is hopeless to start out with any of the very cheap nets, for they are so frail thoy arc not worth the labor and expense of makeup. A black net has a dot largo enough i to look markedly black, and narrow gauze ribbon is quilled in fine ruchlngs, alternating- with the material and insertions of fine tucked moussellne. A black me- line hat laden with ostrich plumes is worn, and the hat, too, answers for every gown in mademoiselle's wardrobe, even wlth"Xhe dainty white muslin. The black hat, broad and flat and simply trimmed, is the hat of the season, and Is affected conspicuously by every woman who helps to set the fashion. Mrs. Clara Bloodgood, who, when she went from the drawing-room to the stage, became the fashion actress of New York, always wears a simple, rather stiff, broad, all- black hat, with any. but a very dressy frock. An evening gown of pale blue crepe that serves for but a foundation for a heavy laco is shown In tho photograph of a popular member of the Florodora sextet. The gown will be quite as good for next Autumn's fashions as it Is for the present, for it was designed lngly trimmed with black French lace, daintily finished with narrow straps of and made by people in , Paris, who man age to keep quite a bit ahead of tho day. The sleeve of this particular frock needs a pretty arm to carry with grace ful effect, and the gown Is given high lights here and ,thero with tiny blue silk J uisseis anu twists ana cnains ot uoeriy satin. A frill of pleated chiffon finished the lower edge of the lace on the skirt. A printed batiste in white and black has a charming sleeve model, and the bodice end skirt are simply but strlk black velvet ribbon and small Rhine stone buttons. The undcreleeves arc of lace, and a balayeuse of white chiffon makes a charming- finish about the hem of tho skirt. Hand embroider' gives a look of elegance to a gown of white crepe tucked lengthwise, with alter nating lines of line whlto lace Insertion. Tho girdle and sash are of black silk, embroidered in white, and a distinctive look Is given the hat and gown with clusters of ecarlet cherries. LILLIAN EDGERTON BARRET. EARLY FALL HINTS FOR SCHOOL GIRLS BLOUSE BODICE PROMISES TO BE POPULAR GREEN IS A BACK NUMBER SOME new pin-dotted -wools, not great ly unlike French barege, are very pretty. "With bright or somber back ground, these delicate stuffs are Tanked among tho first Autumn materials, the flexible weaves admitting all the fine tucking so fashionable this Summer. Especially are they adapted to school girl wear, and when combined with nar row ribbon, and put on shirred or plain, the effect of them is extremely girlish. Sometimes a plain color Is used with the spotted material, this put on In three-inch bands, solidly stitched with silk matching the dots. A charming school frock for a girl of 16 was in ono of those new wools, red dots on a blue background. Tho band trim ming was of plain red stitched with blue, three rows showing on the back of the skirt and some tabbed pieces forming a round yoke and cuffs for the blouse bod Ice. Tho model of tho skirt was very odd. Tho front breadth was perfectly plain, the back box-pleated from a point Just be low the hips. The three bands, which held these down at the top. were pointed at the ends. Cloth la .solid colors is seen on other schoolgirl frocks, shaping odd collars and cuffs on mottlpd and checked tweeds. Scarlet is a brilliant note with many dresses, and white garnlshlngs ore more than ever used. A very novel little gown, shown by a shop famous for juvenile wear, was in bTOwn and white tweed, with a white cloth collar and cuff bands. Plain blue bunting realized another neat frock, this one depending almost entirely upon tucking for ornament, while the daintiest novelty challles were made up to have a fetchlngly French air. In truth, all of these youthful costumes seemed only simplified editions of adult fineries. The same details distinguish the wear of 1G and 20, both matron and maiden sleeves bulging in great puffs below the elbow; all the family bodices running to blouse effects, and skirts for all ages blooming with middle trimmings, as you might say. That is, the new Jupe decora tion Is between tho belt and the hem, at the hip quarter or lower down. Only really llttle-glrl skirts are trimmed di rectly at the bottom. Apropos of the blouse bodice. It Is to be more worn than ever say the big dress makersthe little ones don't count "with an Increased exaggeration of looseness. "Notice." says one gifted artist of the needle, "how the French woman's bodice Is worn, and dilate on the advantages of a studied carelessness. The true Parisian always looks as If her costume were Im promptu, but she displays the art of the 1 1 '-r DAIXTY SCHOOLGIRL EFFECTS. -""' 1 "- - .. - i great painter in choosing her combina tions; and especially does sho know that easy, unconflnlng bodices make her slim mer and daintier." In descanting against over-elaboration. Felix, that high priest of divine simplici ties, once said: "Beware of this sin," add ing that over-dress promoted, to even the untrained observer, a dryness of effect. Dryer than bleached fishbones, he vowed, was the taste of all "the unfortunate Eng lish." As to the Americans, they were better "um-ah-oul" a little better; but not yet perfect. Returning to schoolgirls, delightful little tea Jacket are being turned out for maid ens in their teens, the afternoon tiflln be ing now a most pleasurable feature of boarding-school life. At these 4 o'clock gatherings, to which on Saturdays como outside guests, plain dark skirts will be begayed by dainty tailed bodices In gay silks, with knots of narrow ribbons or vel vet, and batiste or chiffon embroideries. A fetching model in these pretty jacket waists Is called tho Vassar. One design in this was made in striped pompadour silk, pink and blue, against a white back ground. The shape, of tho Jacket savored of tho latt; Louis designs; the untrlmmed tails ending, as did the coats of that class, where the vest began. Gathered flounces of ecru embroidered batiste formed this, a wider embroidery making the deep col lar and frills for the elboty sleeves. A narrow belt of black ribbon velvet held tho waist In at tho back, drooping bows, caught with blue enamel buttons, finish ing it at the sides. The same ornamenta tion showed above the flounces of tho sleeves, and the neck wa3 cut out round and edged with a band of black and ecru embroidery. ;If silk cannot bo afforded the figured zephyr flannels. In delicate tints, will be found very pretty materials for these tea Jackets. The thin striped ribbons seen on every bargain counter will trim them tastefully, and cheap net laces will mount them to points of astounding glory. For outdoor school petticoats, black brll llantlne lined with light-weight scarlet flannel Is a dominant material with- "Win ter skirts, which are made In narrow gores and trimmed at the bottom with corded or tucked flounces. Indoor petticoats are better In thinner. unllned textures, and good materials for these are the black and colored glorias seen on all sides. Few petticoats are seen with the yoke3 once considered essential for a tTlm lit. The tops of all the new ones are gored sharply into the figure, the front and sides fitting without a wrinkle; the .back breadths are drawn in with ribbon run through shlrrings. This may not seem im portant Information, but upon such trlfle3 hang all tho laws of the prophets of fash Ion. "When you get the petticoat on you will see the value of this small seed by tho wayside, which I trust may not fall on stony ground. The petticoats gored to the waist hang properly, and those suspended from yokes do not. In tho night robe department pajamas, in colored pongees and tinted flannels, are to bo had for girls of ail ages. A daring departure, maybe, from the soft traditions of our sex, but since fashion vows they arc just tho thing we must wel come them. I suppose. For young chil dren, and older girls who catch cold eas ily, they are without doubt good things; but if the choice should Involve consump tion leave me the holy "nightie" of my In fancy. Merely to think of Its possible decllno gives one the coid creeps. There- has been a lamentable fall In en thusiasm for the vivid shade of green so much worn this Summer. When the crazo first fell upon New York to satisfy the demand for veils In this color ordi nary chiffon, selling by the yard and at exorbitant prices, was used for them. Then green veils, with blue spots, appeared, im itating the plumage of the parrot, these selling" anywhere from $6 apiece. When all the world was well greened, enthusiasm cooled and prices dropped, till a week ngo a smart veil In this tint could be had for 17 cents. Yesterday a dozen bargain countera were heaped with many pure limp green ghosts Inscribed with the belittling legend. 12 cents! Such is tho fickleness of fashion, and the unwisdom of the too believing manufacturer. In Paris, it is said, the curtain veils with floating scarf ends at the back never have been much worn. Tho most mod"st veils are the merest wisps of tulle or malincs net, covering the top of the noso only. Often they match the hat and cos tume In color, so that It Is no uncemmon thing to see a gracious vision swim toward you masked with violet, blue, or brown. But this 13 hardly for the ordinary mortal a happy fashion. Tho white malino veils, barred with black, are not advised by humane mil liners, though every shop in town new show3 them. They are very aging, say these charitable ladles, while, if sufficient ly dflicate. the one-colored vel!s are re juvenating. MARY DEAN. A CHAPTE'R ON PICKLES STUFFED PEPPERS r FROM A SOUTHERN RECIPE TO make thoroughly delicious stuffed peppers after a famous Southern recipe, choose green peppers of an equal size, and to each dozen allow one , cabbage, six onions, one ounce of mustard seed, one ounce of celery seed, one ounce J of ground white pepper, half an ounce of i ground mace, one ounce of temeric, one I gallon of vinegar, to which has been . Added two tablespoons of salt, and ono teaspoonful each of ground cloves and allspice. Cut the cabbage and onions into quarters; pour boiling brine over them, and let stand for two days, and then drain and dry in the sun. Core 1 the peppers and put them In brine for 24 hours. "When the cabbage and onions ar quite dry chop them very fine and add all the other Ingredients with the excep- 'Ccadudcd on Face 51.)
