28
XilJS SUNDAY OREGOJNT I AjN, OJRXLAOT, AUGUST 3, 1902.
FRESHENING SUMMER TOGGERY
HINTS
OLD J-
UNLESS it is constantly renewed or
freshened Augustus the month when
the Summer "wardrobe takes on a
faded air. Two months of hard use have
told on airy gowns, whose crisp freshness
was their chief attraction; paled are the
blossoms In the garden of hatland; and
ribbons, daintiest ornaments in the world
of dress, aro deep in the wrinkles of mid
dle age. Some magic is required here to
restore departed youth, but once learned
the rejuvenation of dress is a simple mat
ter. For one thing, all diaphanous gowns,
whether of wool or cotton, should bo kept
well pressed; first dampening muslins with
a weak solution of gum arable and water.
Then renewing flowers will do much to
ward . helping a. hat through the season,
and silk frocks can be kept in good order
by simply putting them away properly.
Bodices should be hung over forms, every
button of the front or back fastened, and
"with tissue paper holding out the sleeves.
For hanging the skirt, fold the belt direct
ly in the middle and suspend it tightly
from two safety pins placed at either end.
These will go over small hanging hooks,
and if the wardrobe is sufficiently high
and spacious the skirt Is improved by the
treatment. Short clothes closets, which
force the train to lie "on the floor, lnjuro
the Jupe lines, and waist boxes are things
to be avoided, the bodice crumpling at
every touching point.
So much for the woman who can't, buy
new clothes in August. For those who
can three charming gowns by a leading
New York falseuse will give admirable
hints, all being in styles as becoming, as
novel.
A bewitching afternoon, costume Is in
novelty Swiss big black balls on. a white
ground. The skirt has two deep flounces,
cut on the straight and edged with bias
bands of plain white. One of these also
heads the top flounce, and at the left knee
is placed a gauzy, bunchy bow of black
and white striped ribbon.
The surplice bodice likewise shows these
bows, one at the right shoulder and one !
at the left bust. The model of the corsage
is extremely odd. Beginning with a tucked
yoke, stitched with black, the lower por
tion drapes slantingly across the bust,
leaving the left shoulder free. The elbow
sleeves, which require long black silk
gloves for outdoor appearances, are lightly
shirred at the outer arm. The zone belt
is of plain Swiss, and the low, pointed col
lar band of the same worked with black.
Picture all this over a slip of apple
green silk, and top it with a toque of
green leaves with two huge white roses
at the left front.
Another delightful frock shown by this
gifted modiste, who includes some of New
York's prettiest actresses among her cus
tomers, was of white voile over black silk.
This toilette had been designed for country-house
junketings at Lenox, but it
looked as if the boulevards of Paris were
Its familiar haunts. For the placing of
white over black Is a trick of the French
oostumera and everywhero the arrange
ment results in the usual elegance dis
played by these people. Madame, the
American maker, pointed out one salient
need for correct effects: The white which
goes over black should be thick enough
to resist too much darkening from the
lining. So the veiling she had chosen was
of the thickest mesh, solldcr in weave
than the usual voiles, though It fell with
A SUMMER
A MONG Summer functions the lunch
jTi. eon often takes precedence of the
dinner, especially If one is entertaining
friends for a day In the country. Some
times a piazza boasts of an angle or nook
where a table fits in cozlly, and over a
delectable al fresco luncheon some "three
or four women assemble to gossip and
chat. Or a pretty little function may be
given at noon in a small apartment where
the table is drawn up near a window, on
which the box of blossoming plants gives
tho appearance of a miniature garden.
In either case there is always an op
portunity for a dainty show of damask,
fine glass and the central color bit of em
broidery and flowers generally untlllzed for
such a picture. A center-piece with plate
and corner doylies of daisies, wild roses
or any field flower meeting all demands to
day is a cover trimmed on all edges with
a four-inch lace and narrow insertion of
renaissance lace, Irish crochet, or an em
broidery of charming French white work,
which is now considered elegant. The
menu may be as many courses as desired,
made by well-tried recipes that are deli
cate and savory, and yet substantial in
their way. These dishes can be prepared
at an early hour in the morning of the
same day, which saves much trouble, and
leaves a mald-of-all-work fresh and cool
ooking at the time of serving.
MENU.
Grape Fruit Iced Bouillon.
Cold Soft-Shell Crabs, Sauce Tartarre.
Cold Chicken Pasty.
Currant Bar Le Due Olives.
Radlshea Salted Pecans.
Salad of Lettuce, with Tomato Roses.
Bread Sticks. Cream Cheese.
Pineapple With' Rum.
Emergency Ice Gream. Sponge Cake.
Iced Tea. Iced Coffee.
Claret Cup.
. Grape Fruit.
The grape fruit should be served in
I :
Afternoon kottxi of white veil
ins with, black embroideries.
halves, and thoroughly chilled. Cut the
tough membrane from each section, so
that it can easily be removed, sweeten
slightly and flavor with sherry. Stand on
ice until needed, then garnish with candled
cherries.
Chicken Pasty
To make an ideal chicken pasty select
a plump, meaty young fowl, clean and
singe It, then steam until tender. When
cool, separate the meat from tho skin and
bones. Cut the meat Into small pieces,
and stand aside until wanted. Put the
bones and the skin Into soup kettle, cover
with cold water and stew slowly for four
hours. Then strain tho broth that re
mains. Mako good pie crust, and line a
1
ABOUT RENEWING DRESSES THAT BEGIN TO LOOK
HOT-WEATHER UNDERWEAR '
THE DAIXTY FROCIC OF THE
a voile softness. With this she had com
bined wool embroideries and cat-stitching
for trimming.
The stitching held down the shallow
tucks of the blouso bodice and sleeves,
the tucks of these running bias and the
others up and down. At the front of the
waist there was a wide plastron, orna
mented with a sort of hugo fleur de lis
in black embroidery- The others em
bellished the outside of the puff at the
lower portion of the sleeves; and the
cut-out neck was finished with a pointed
band, on which there were smaller flour
do lis, held together by a beading of
embroidered dots.
The embroidery of the skirt consisted
of a wide band in another pattern, edged
with two solid rows in black. This, shap
ing a deep scallop at the front and .back
of the jupe, headed a wide hemmed
flounce. The pointed girdle was of black
dull finish taffeta, cut bias, and left un
llned. i
Rarely beautiful are the white or
gandy and swlss frocks with black laco
Insets and embroideries. The Immense
amount of hand work on these makes the
LUNCHEON
deep pudding dish. All with the chicken
meat, and add tho chicken broth. Then
season to taste. Cover the top with a
layer of crust and bako until a delicious
crisp brown, then allow to become thor
oughly cold. Serve with the Bar le Due
and sandwiches made with two slices of
white bread, enclosing ono of brown, all
cut in wafer-like thinness.
Salad of Tomatoes and Lettuce.
There Is a "best way" of serving even
this familiar dish. Select large, ripe to
matoes, plunge them Into boiling water
for a moment, then Itno cold, and remove
the skins. Stand on ice until thoroughly
chilled. Just before serving cut each Into
eighths, without separating at tho lower
part; stand each one on a bed of crisp
lettuce leaves, spread tho sections apart
and drop a spoonful of Mayonnaise In
the heart of each "rose." Servo with
bread sticks and with cream cheese, mold
ed Into small balls, and rolled lightly In
chopped parsley.
Pineapple "With Rum.
Select rlpo fruit, peel and remove tho
oyes, cut the pineapple In half and tear
apart with a silver fork, leaving the hard
core In the hand. Sweeten and pour over
tho fruit Santa Cruz rum, diluted with
one-third water, using as a flavoring a
small claret glass full for each pineapple.
Stand on ice until well chilled.
Emergency Ice Cream.
To make avdellclous ice cream that re
quires no cooking and, withal, is not over
rich or extravagant, use good quality con
densed milk. To each can allow three of
the same measure of sweet milk, flavor
with half a dozen bananas or a quart of
peaches pressed through a sieve, sweeten
and freeze. When half frozen open tho
can ana add naif a. pint of cream,
whipped, replace the cover and freeze until
solid. If peaches are used, add a few
drops of pink vegetable coloring.
Crabs With Sauce Trtnr.
Select crabs that are absolutely soft
Fry them in the best olive oil. without
breading and stand on ice until thoroughly
cold. For the sauco make Mayonnaise
dressing, and to each half pint add one
tablcspoonful of capers, chopped, one tea
spoonful of onion Juice, three olives and
one.gerkin, also finely chopped, and ono
tablcspoonful . of parsley, pounded .to a
pulp.
Household Bints.
Boll trays represent a recent addition
to the household china list. They aro
long and exactly the width of a Vienna
rolL
For casement window curtains of Tudor
cloth, a creamy tinted, soft material of
silk and wool are new and exceedingly
effective.
The prevailing fancy for gxcen and
white has extended to glassware, partic
ularly the decorative type, and vases,
rose-bowls and similar articles are to bo
had in these fashionable colors In moire
pattern. '
Fishnets and lace striped scrims make
dainty draperies for fancy bed dressing.
A pretty way to make the spread Is to
Join the widths of net and scrim with in
sertion and finish with a three-Inch frill
to match.
A convenience for the toilet table Is a
"Boston pin-cushion." It Is a four-inch
cubo of white satin, stiff only on the
bottom. Tho fivo sides aro filled each
with pirn? of some particular color put
in in star or diamond shape.
Tho breakfast frame is tho 20th century
designation of tho receptacle for vlner
gar, oil, mustard, etc., known a genera
tion or so ago as a caster. In sterling
and quadruple plate the silversmiths aro
turning out somo handsomely chased
frames fitted with richly-cut gloss bot
tles. Hero Is an English recipe for tea
cakes, which Is highly recommended: One
pound ot flour, a full one-half ounce of
butter and lard, ono egg, a pinch of salt.
& dessert-spoonful of sugar and one i.
CLEVER XEBDLETVOMAX.
ready-made production a dear possession,
but women clever with the needle find
in such styles agreeable 'outlets for su
perfluous energies.
"Indeed," said my modlsto yesterday,
"so many ladles aro making their gowns
tills season that It Is seriously affecting
business."
The revival of hand stltchery has
brought this about, as well as the great
improvement in paper patterns, which at
many of the good places are now cut
to measurements. Then Fashion now
calls for so many frocks that the ma
jority of us are compelled to economize
on the making.
Delicious inspiration for tho clever
needlewoman is a gown of amber or
gandy and black lace, over watermelon
pink silk. Embroidered rings, enclosing
disks of black and white footing alter
nating in narrow strips trim this with
bewildering effect. On the skirt the rings
border odd ovals of tucked organdy
stitched with black; these heading an
embroidered foot flounce- Above, all
over the skirt, are the same ornaments,
large and small, a row around a tucked
COLD DISHES, BUT TASTY AND SUBSTANTIAL, ARE
NEEDED r HINTS ON SERVING
ounce of yeast dissolved in a gill ot
warm milk; mix it lightly and quickly
with a knife, handling it as little as may
be, shape It Into scones or bun;, patting
these Into shape with the mixing- knife,
and bake.
As a fertilizer for the kitchen garden
the water In which dishes have boon
washed Is highly recommended. Tomato
plants are said to thrive particularly
well If treated to a bath of this water,
which must be poured around tho roots
only and not upon tho foliage of tho
plant.
A starch for handkerchiefs that will
mako them look exactly as they did when
taken from the box in the shop Is mado
by placing six drops of bluing In two
quarts of water and adding a piece of
raw starch the slzo of a walnut. Care
must be taken to thoroughly dissolve the
starch and to let nono of it settle in the
piece shaping a basque effect at the back
and hips.
The lower portion of 'the blouse bodice
Is of tho plain organdy. The upper con
sists of an embroidered yoke, cut low
at the front, and lacing at the bust with
black bebe velvet. More rings border
thl3 and cover tho gathered elbow
sleeves; end a very pretty point is a
girdle of bias black velvet, whose sharply,
narrowed ends tie- in a bow at the fronts
Long gloves of black cllk or black
kid stiched with white accompany all
gowns de sortie with 'elbow sleeves.
Silk and thread mlts are also seen, but
these, being unbecoming to any but tho
most beautiful hands and arms, are not
in marked favor. Tho most stylish
gloves of the season are In a mixture
of thread and silk. These fit as snugly
as kid and are as expensive. Finger
tips are doubled, the short gloves show
ing heavy stltchlngs at the back and
big, mannlsh-lcoking pearl buttons.
Try them if you want your hands to
look modish and feel comfortable at the
same time. One dollar will buy a very
dapper pair, and they may b6 either all
white or black stitched with white. The
last sort arc good purchases for all round
wear.
But, however stylish they are. all the
world does not wear the black and
white gloves, tnany smart women pre
ferring a glovo to match the gown. In
the pale grays, brown3 and violets of
the new cotton textures these seem very
fetching.
Hot-weather underwear is Just now
being made a specialty with many of
the good shops. A pleasing simplicity
is observed in the best of these pretty
garments, which are in tho thinnest
textures, and white as usual predomi
nating over color. Batiste. French dim
ity and lawn arc some of the coolest ma
terials, these sporting tho simplest em
broideries, or lace headings strung with
narrow ribbons. Tho lawn chemises and
drawers with narrow "Valenciennes edg
ings are admirable purchases. "With
every washing these seem to get more
sheer, and compared with other materials
the lawn things are very cheap.
Several new models aro observed in
the various departments, the princess
petticoat being one very late and. pretty
novelty. This has tho boned corset gir
dle of the princess gowns worn several
seasons ago, with ornamental stltchlngs
for tho gussets and deep embroideries
for tho skirt bottom. A thin white linen
is tho material most used for such mod
els, whose flttcd waist portions require
a texturo with sonic body. Tho Empire
chemise, a dainty short-walstcd little
garment with babjish puff sleeves, is
another pretty novelty, and many of the
thinnest nightgowns have wide klmona
sleeves.
A .very neat and Inexpensive gown Is
of white striped batiste with -plain lawn
friil edgings; and for thoso who suffer
much from Summer heat there are mod
els so cut at the throat as to seem al-'
most decollete. Such styles boast no
sleeves to speak of, the arm covering
being tho tiniest of puffs. They are
drawn In at the bottom with narrow
wash ribbons, run through lace or em
broidery headings, the same simple treat
ment showing at the round or square
cut neck, s
Very little silk underwear is now worn
by smart women, tho most elegant of
the fashionable preferring the daintier
cottons. But the shops are full of silk
under-rigging, which somebody must
buy. The best things in this lino aro
made of a very delicate quality of white
china silk, with tho hems of frills and
flounces fagottcd on. -
Drawers aro wider than ever, looking
in some cases, with their deep flounces,
like divided skirts. 'Twenty-seven Inches
is the modish length for these.
MARY DEAN.
r
bottom of the bowL After the handker
chiefs have been washed and dried In
the usual way, dip each one separately in
this starch, squeeze as dry as possible
with tho bands, and lay smoothly in a
toweL Iron with care.
In so simple a matter as slicing bacon
there Is a right way and a wrong. Lay
ydu bacon on a board with tho rind slde
down. Thon with a very sharp kniie
cut the -bacon In thin, uniform slices
down to the rind, but do not try to cut
through it. When you have a sufficient
number of slices cut run the knife under,
keeping it close to the rind, and tho
slices will be free.
After your bacon Is sliced off do not
throw the rind away as useless. Scrub
off the outside with plenty of water and
a vegetable brush, and uso tho rind with
the scraps of fat remaining to season
your dried pea soup, or your kettle of
"greens."
CHAMLIG HOT WEATHER TJ 7 D E BAVE
THE AMERICAN GIRL'S VOICE
THE laudation which has been so
freely given "to tho American girl In
recent years has not included praise of her
voice. Her beauty, dress, manner, vivac
ity, style and wit have all come in for
praise, but there is yet to be heard in
the chorus even a .small note dwelling on
the music of her voice.
Modern writers abroad havo avoided tho
ludicrous error made by so many of their
predecessors In attributing to all American
women a fondness for the use of slar.g
spoken through tho hose. Only a very
few women -from certain parts o" the East
talk with the nasaf" twang. Just as cer
tain other localities stamp their natives
with the burr, rather pleasant In contrast
with the lilgh-pltchcd typical New York
voice. ,
Whether It Is because American women
have proved so successful in social life
abroad or not. It Is difficult to say, but of
late tho shrill American voice has been
made the fashion In London to such an
extent that a gathering" of duchesses re
sembles vocally ho group around a
Eroadway soda fountain after the matinee.
At no time of the year is tho bad voice
of the American woman more In evidence
than in Summer, when travel and the
open-air life . of the resorts give aggres
sive opportunities to its clarion note. It
rounds from hotel and cottage piazza, on
the links and the courts, on driveway and
beach from June until September.
In the open air it seems at its very worst
until you hear it resounding in a Pull
man car or a hotel office, and it makes you
wince. Yoij listen for the voices of the
children, but you find no relief. The same
squealing, brassy effect is In evidence, only
more poignant in Its youthfulncss.
This would seem to indicate that the
American girl is born with this defect, but
this Is not the case. The shrill voice of
the American child Is largely the result of
Imitation and environment. Just as a
few years ago a child who pronounced
"dog," "doll," "coffee," "coffin" correctly
was laughed at, so today a deep-voiced
child would bo made fun of.
Today in the schools "dawg," "dawl,"
"cawflln," "cawffee" arc acknowledged to
be among the most unpleasant peculiari
ties of American pronunciation, but the
shrill voice obtains. Tho fact that the
American voice responds Immediately to
cultivation Is best proved by the nice
voices of some of the leading actresses.
The women of Russia. Italy, Ireland.
England, all have better voices than the
SERMONETTE ON THE GARBAGE PAIL
TIMELY SUGGESTIONS FOR THE ABATING OF A COMMON SUMMER
NUISANCE r THE HYGIENE OF DRINKING
AND here is a sermonetto on the gar
bage pall. Text, n Kings, lv:40:
"There is death In the pot."
Theme An Important factor in home
sanitation.
First Head Bewarol
Second Head Bo warned l
Third Head Be wise!
Conclusion "Watch out!" "Eternal vig
ilance Is the price of liberty."
If anything has to be neglected during
the Summer, don't let it be the garbage
pall. Dust on the piano is bad. Specks
onthe mirror or wlndQws are annoying.
You can't always find time to make cake
for tea nor plo for dessert.
Tho sheets and towels may have to be
folded and put under a weight to cava
Ironing; the baby wear colored slips to
economize in washing. All these limita
tions may be grievous in a measure, but
they aro not of vital Importance. Tnw
care of the garbage pail Is.
Death and destruction sit .on the rim
of the neglected pall and bacteria and mi
crobesmalevolent ones multiply apace.
Decaying fruit and vegetables are Just
as poisonous aa meat, only not quite so
noticeable.
Tho best garbage can, from a sanitary
point of view. Is of galvanized Iron, with
a cover of tho same. If you Hvo,in the
city, where the Health Department min
ions play "Ono old cart" with your pall,
tossing it with infinite abandon from
sidewalk to cart and back again, it Is
the only kind that can "stand the racket"
for any length of time.
If you are a suburbanite or a dweller
Alt.
ONE THING HER ADMIRERS DO NOT PRAISE IN HER INHALA
TION AND FUMIGATION GOOD FOR THE VOCAL CHORDS'
women of America, so it cannot be urged :
that our cllmato la responsible for the j
trouble, for each of the countries named l
has a varying climate, that of England
being especially Injurious to the vocal or
gans. Tho pitch of the American woman's
voice seems to bo its most Important de
fect. It is noisy, brassy, assertive. Even
In tho colleges and at college gatherings
"the strident high voice la noticeable. The
laughter of, the American girl is nothlnc
short, of disagreeable, and this can always .
be noted In matinee audiences when a
comedy is being presented.
This, of course, applies to women of tho
North. Tho Southern women have a pe- J
cullarly soft and charming voice, ono of
tneir greatest attractions. It expresses
refinement, cordiality and gentleness, for
the volco next to the eye 13 expressive of
the character, and some say that it tells
far more In Its unconscious notes.
An American contralto has opened a
studio in New York for the purpose of
teaching American women how to uso
and train their voices. The Idea of tho
venture came to her at a Washington re
ception where a statesman called her at
tention to the chatter around them and
said that when he had the money to
spare he would endow a college where
American women might be taught to talk
correctly.
The new teacher, like others who havo
observed that tho American voice has
grown worse. Instead of bqtter, has noted
that even oh the stage at the best thea
ters some of the leading women are not
allowed to talk in this disagreeable, high
pitched fashion, possibly for tho reason
that the idea Is to imitate fashionable
talk.
Considering the fact that women pay
so much attention nowadays to the beau
tifying of their complexion and hair and
the accenting of their charms generally.
It Is surprising that more caro is not
taken of the voice.
Deep breathing, which is now prescrib
ed as a remedy for many Ills, is an ex
cellent tonic that speedily shows its
effect in the deepening of the conversa
tional tones. Singing Is an excellent ex
ercise and little girls who insist that they
do not know how to sing should be en
couraged to learn, as tho voice for speak
ing will mellow and grow musical even
though the singing may not become a
marked accomplishment.
A coarse volco is hardly moro disagree- I
able than a harsh, shrill one, and few
American women have coarso voices. A
distinct low tone Is the proper manner in
which to speak. The loud voice not
only shows bad training but Indicates an
unpleasantly domineering spirit.
Calling or shouting from ona room to 5
another, a habit "to which children aro
on broad acres, any whole receptacle, tin
or even wood, will do, provided It is fre
quently scalded, disinfected and dried out.
One of the flve-gallon -kerosene cans make
a very good pall, with a piece of baling
wire fastened In for a handle. Keep an
old broom for cleaning out the pall. Take
it out on the grass, turn the hoso or tea
kettle on it and scrub.
Onco a week a disinfectant Is In order.
A good ono to keep on hand Is prepared
In this way: Dissolve a half pint or
washing soda In six quarts of boiling wa
ter. A cupful of this added to the clean
ing water will be quite sufficient.
Do not throw the contents of your pall,
If it be trimmings and parings of vege
tables, etc., on the garden to decay, it
there are no animals on the place to eat
them, either bury and thU3 enrich the
soil, or burn.
If the latter, dry out first, so as not to
crack the stove. Orange and lemon peel
ing, peach, apricot and cherry pits make
admirable kindling when dried. Bones
burned and pounded aro excellent for
making hens lay, or for giving an impetus
to your rose bushes or grape vines.
If you have no drain and are forced to
throw your dishwater out on the grouno,
a solution of copperas (a pound and a
half to a gallon of water Is a good pro
portion), should be sprinkled around once
or twice a week. Lastly, remember that
upon you, Madame Chatelaine, rests much
of the responsibility for the comfort and
health of your household. There Is oc
casionally a servant who may be de
pended upon to carry out your Instruc
tions without your personal attention, but
such a one 13 a rara avis. Tho wise woman
looketh well to the ways of her house
hold, and even to the unromantlc but es
sential garbage pall.
Tho Hygiene of Drinking.
There Is no doubt that wo do not drink
enough. Our bodies consist largely of
water, and tho average mart" needs to
drink from four to six pints of water
dally In order to maintain health. This
is the amount of water eliminated from
tho body by means of tho kidneys, tho
skin and lungs- It is evident that a
fresh supply is constantly needed to sup
ply this lost aid in tho process of diges
tion and carry away waste matter.
If tho amount of water Imbibed Is not
sufficient for all this, the health must
suffer. Air, water and food aro the es
sentials of Hfo in tho order given.
A person can fast a long time experi
ments havo proved this but that samo
person could not get along without water
for that length of time.
As a usual thing, women are tho ones
who suffer tho most from an Insufficiency
of water. Mothers should seo to It that
their children have plenty of water to
drink. I
There is a diversity of opinion regard
ing drinking at meals. Some assert that
the practice is injurious, as It dilutes tho
gastric Juice. Others again claim that a
glassful of pure drinking water taken
during tho process of mastication Is
healthful. On ono point, however, all
authorities agree; namely, that ico water
Is Injurious.
Whenever we have a spell of hot weath
er It Is customary for the wise ones to
warn their friends not to drink things.
There is a certain truth in this, but the
discomfort that arises from reaction. If
the drink 13 too cold, is the basis of it
all. Perspiration is apt to follow, satu
rating the clothing and causing discom
fort. The fact is, we need more water
during hot weather or when exercising.
Our food, of course, contains a portion
of this needed liquid, especially tho fruits
and vegetables, and thirst Isnot experi
enced so often with a vegetarian diet.
There , 13 no doubt but that hot water
quenches thirst in most Instances better
than cold. Taken regularly at the rate
of one glassful half an hour before meals.
It promotes digestion, and in catarrhal
conditions of the stomach' is recommend
ed by physicians. It has also been tried
as a remedy for insomnia.
Many nervous troubles would be greatly
benefited by Increasing the amount of
water consumed, and constipation is
largely the result of an Inadequate sup
ply of water. j
One of the reasons people thrive at min
eral springs is that outside of any "medi
cinal properties the springs may possess,
they drink much more water than at
home.
There be those who havo the courage
to drink warm tea in Summer, In tho
faith that the reaction will be cooling.
It takes courage on a hot Summer day
to resist the alluring signs displayed of
birch beer and soda water, to say noth
ing of Iced tea and milk, but tho fre
quent use of theso drinks Is hard on tho
digestive apparatus. It seems almost
vain to preach against these cooling
drinks for hot weather, but oris can at
least advise moderation.
An English writer advises that when
addicted, should bo discouraged. Shouting
and screaming at play, which many
school-girls delight in doing, has a bad
effect on the voice.
The tendency to cry out in anger, pain,
surprise. Joy. should bo corrected. Scold
ing will permanently ruin a woman a
voice. Even though she be praying her
volco betrays the unpleasant disposition.
Throat diseases allowed to run uncheck
ed because they may be slight will make
the voice unpleasant In time. It will be
come hoarse and indistinct. When ona
is suffering from a cold or sore throat
which produces hoarseness It la wise to
the voice.
Onlon3 and lemon Juice are both ex
cellent ttonlcs for the voice. Some physi
cians prescribe a preparation of peroxldo
of hydrogen for singers. Baked apples,
the yolks of raw eggs and buttermilk aro
said to have properties that Improve and
clear the voice. Tobacco and alcohol are
both Injurious and highly spiced food
Is not good.
Inhalation and fumigation are good for
the vocal chords. There are many candles
possessing Ingredients that arc beneficial
and certain fruits are good. But deep
breathing of pure air and oxerclse will
soon have a beneficial effect on the voice.
Deep breathing exercises will change a
man's falsetto voice to a full and rich
one, will cure sore throats and glvo flex
ibility to the tones. Deep breathing is
really a system of lung gymnastics.
The bad American voice is best known
to the musical directors who choose girls
for the choruses of operas. They do not
expect musical ability among tho appli
cants for places In tho chorus, but they
must have voices that will harmonize.
A girl with a pretty face and figure will
seem an acquisition until she sings tho
few lines that are used as a test for tho
chorus novices. Even among those chosen
the voices are. as a rule, peculiarly un
musical, a fact which will be always no
ticed when a girl has a lino or two to
speak in a burlesque or comic opera.
In talking to servants, to tradespeople,
to children, as much care must be ob
served as In conversation In the drawing-room.
Onco the habit of modulating
the volco becomes fixed the victory Is as
sured. There Is' a certain hypnotic effect
to which women are susceptible when con
versing with another woman who may
pitch her voice at the high nervous ten
sion. Unconsciously the other woman will fol
low the lead, and In a few moments both
will be carrying on the typically loud
American conversation entirely audible to
every person within 10 feet or more. If
an orchestra Is performing In tho room
the voices grow shriller, and when the
music stops suddenly tho voices keep on
in Just the same way.
the rest cure, which has become so pop
ular, is undertaken at home, milk should
be freely used. A glass Is taken In tho
early morning, another sipped at break
fast, a third In tho mlddlo of tho day.
one In the afternoon and finally one just
beforo retiring at night.
Generally speaking, the theory advo
cated by the best physicians nowadays
Is to drink often and much. It cleanses
tho system, increases circulation and
helps to mako a clear complexion. There
fore, yo men and women, tho latter es
pecially, drink. Take clear, pure water,
and be thankful so slmplo a remedy of
nature is near at hand.
The Vosrne of the Dot.
In the Summer shirtwaists and In their
belts and stocks and cuffs and in every
other part you notice the dot. The tend
ency to dot things grows, and there aro
more and more methods of doing it.
There Is the big velvet lozenge dot, which
Is mado by cutting lozenges of velvet
of blue or pink and applying them to
waists according to taste.
Take a waist of taffeta, plain and un
tucked, and apply lozenges of turquolso
velvet to the yoke, and also to the lower
part of the sleeve. When you have com
pleted your work you will find that you
have mado a really handsome waist out
of it, and If you want to give it the
French finish you can apply lozenges to
tho lower part of the waist for a space of
abouf six Inches above tho belt.
The work must be done with small
stitchef, to look as though the velvet
were woven In the goods. Several clever
dressmakers are really gluing theso dots
on and finishing their work with a few
Invisible stitches. .
Xotea of Fashion.
Novelty dress fabrics Include shot eta
mines and grenadines.
The pongee corset Is ono of the espe
cially favored styles for Summer wear.
Tho handsomest of the new combs of
tortoise shell and amber are embellished
with small pearls and diamonds.
Unen gowns In tho pretty new shades
Govrn of hlaclc nntl white Swiss
over apple green sillc
of green, blue, pink and gray are made
with Gibson waists stitched with white.
Marie Antoinette fichus and Corday
berthas are a distinctive and attractive
feature of seme of the prettiest Summer
gowns.
For trimming linen lawn dresses, Paris
Ian modistes and tailors are effectively
employing linen passementerie la soft
ecru shades.
Another pretty shoulder wrap is com
posed of mauve tulle, covered with
maeses of Parma violets and tiny Ivy
foliage and berries.
Silks in black and white and blue and
white checked effects are expected to bo
very fashionable In the Fall for gowns
and separate waists.
One of tho newest of the flower
trimmed pelerines is of brown tulle, wltlx
green mos3 edgings finished with jsrel
satin bow and ions: ends.