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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 3, 1902)
28 XilJS SUNDAY OREGOJNT I AjN, OJRXLAOT, AUGUST 3, 1902. FRESHENING SUMMER TOGGERY HINTS OLD J- UNLESS it is constantly renewed or freshened Augustus the month when the Summer "wardrobe takes on a faded air. Two months of hard use have told on airy gowns, whose crisp freshness was their chief attraction; paled are the blossoms In the garden of hatland; and ribbons, daintiest ornaments in the world of dress, aro deep in the wrinkles of mid dle age. Some magic is required here to restore departed youth, but once learned the rejuvenation of dress is a simple mat ter. For one thing, all diaphanous gowns, whether of wool or cotton, should bo kept well pressed; first dampening muslins with a weak solution of gum arable and water. Then renewing flowers will do much to ward . helping a. hat through the season, and silk frocks can be kept in good order by simply putting them away properly. Bodices should be hung over forms, every button of the front or back fastened, and "with tissue paper holding out the sleeves. For hanging the skirt, fold the belt direct ly in the middle and suspend it tightly from two safety pins placed at either end. These will go over small hanging hooks, and if the wardrobe is sufficiently high and spacious the skirt Is improved by the treatment. Short clothes closets, which force the train to lie "on the floor, lnjuro the Jupe lines, and waist boxes are things to be avoided, the bodice crumpling at every touching point. So much for the woman who can't, buy new clothes in August. For those who can three charming gowns by a leading New York falseuse will give admirable hints, all being in styles as becoming, as novel. A bewitching afternoon, costume Is in novelty Swiss big black balls on. a white ground. The skirt has two deep flounces, cut on the straight and edged with bias bands of plain white. One of these also heads the top flounce, and at the left knee is placed a gauzy, bunchy bow of black and white striped ribbon. The surplice bodice likewise shows these bows, one at the right shoulder and one ! at the left bust. The model of the corsage is extremely odd. Beginning with a tucked yoke, stitched with black, the lower por tion drapes slantingly across the bust, leaving the left shoulder free. The elbow sleeves, which require long black silk gloves for outdoor appearances, are lightly shirred at the outer arm. The zone belt is of plain Swiss, and the low, pointed col lar band of the same worked with black. Picture all this over a slip of apple green silk, and top it with a toque of green leaves with two huge white roses at the left front. Another delightful frock shown by this gifted modiste, who includes some of New York's prettiest actresses among her cus tomers, was of white voile over black silk. This toilette had been designed for country-house junketings at Lenox, but it looked as if the boulevards of Paris were Its familiar haunts. For the placing of white over black Is a trick of the French oostumera and everywhero the arrange ment results in the usual elegance dis played by these people. Madame, the American maker, pointed out one salient need for correct effects: The white which goes over black should be thick enough to resist too much darkening from the lining. So the veiling she had chosen was of the thickest mesh, solldcr in weave than the usual voiles, though It fell with A SUMMER A MONG Summer functions the lunch jTi. eon often takes precedence of the dinner, especially If one is entertaining friends for a day In the country. Some times a piazza boasts of an angle or nook where a table fits in cozlly, and over a delectable al fresco luncheon some "three or four women assemble to gossip and chat. Or a pretty little function may be given at noon in a small apartment where the table is drawn up near a window, on which the box of blossoming plants gives tho appearance of a miniature garden. In either case there is always an op portunity for a dainty show of damask, fine glass and the central color bit of em broidery and flowers generally untlllzed for such a picture. A center-piece with plate and corner doylies of daisies, wild roses or any field flower meeting all demands to day is a cover trimmed on all edges with a four-inch lace and narrow insertion of renaissance lace, Irish crochet, or an em broidery of charming French white work, which is now considered elegant. The menu may be as many courses as desired, made by well-tried recipes that are deli cate and savory, and yet substantial in their way. These dishes can be prepared at an early hour in the morning of the same day, which saves much trouble, and leaves a mald-of-all-work fresh and cool ooking at the time of serving. MENU. Grape Fruit Iced Bouillon. Cold Soft-Shell Crabs, Sauce Tartarre. Cold Chicken Pasty. Currant Bar Le Due Olives. Radlshea Salted Pecans. Salad of Lettuce, with Tomato Roses. Bread Sticks. Cream Cheese. Pineapple With' Rum. Emergency Ice Gream. Sponge Cake. Iced Tea. Iced Coffee. Claret Cup. . Grape Fruit. The grape fruit should be served in I : Afternoon kottxi of white veil ins with, black embroideries. halves, and thoroughly chilled. Cut the tough membrane from each section, so that it can easily be removed, sweeten slightly and flavor with sherry. Stand on ice until needed, then garnish with candled cherries. Chicken Pasty To make an ideal chicken pasty select a plump, meaty young fowl, clean and singe It, then steam until tender. When cool, separate the meat from tho skin and bones. Cut the meat Into small pieces, and stand aside until wanted. Put the bones and the skin Into soup kettle, cover with cold water and stew slowly for four hours. Then strain tho broth that re mains. Mako good pie crust, and line a 1 ABOUT RENEWING DRESSES THAT BEGIN TO LOOK HOT-WEATHER UNDERWEAR ' THE DAIXTY FROCIC OF THE a voile softness. With this she had com bined wool embroideries and cat-stitching for trimming. The stitching held down the shallow tucks of the blouso bodice and sleeves, the tucks of these running bias and the others up and down. At the front of the waist there was a wide plastron, orna mented with a sort of hugo fleur de lis in black embroidery- The others em bellished the outside of the puff at the lower portion of the sleeves; and the cut-out neck was finished with a pointed band, on which there were smaller flour do lis, held together by a beading of embroidered dots. The embroidery of the skirt consisted of a wide band in another pattern, edged with two solid rows in black. This, shap ing a deep scallop at the front and .back of the jupe, headed a wide hemmed flounce. The pointed girdle was of black dull finish taffeta, cut bias, and left un llned. i Rarely beautiful are the white or gandy and swlss frocks with black laco Insets and embroideries. The Immense amount of hand work on these makes the LUNCHEON deep pudding dish. All with the chicken meat, and add tho chicken broth. Then season to taste. Cover the top with a layer of crust and bako until a delicious crisp brown, then allow to become thor oughly cold. Serve with the Bar le Due and sandwiches made with two slices of white bread, enclosing ono of brown, all cut in wafer-like thinness. Salad of Tomatoes and Lettuce. There Is a "best way" of serving even this familiar dish. Select large, ripe to matoes, plunge them Into boiling water for a moment, then Itno cold, and remove the skins. Stand on ice until thoroughly chilled. Just before serving cut each Into eighths, without separating at tho lower part; stand each one on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, spread tho sections apart and drop a spoonful of Mayonnaise In the heart of each "rose." Servo with bread sticks and with cream cheese, mold ed Into small balls, and rolled lightly In chopped parsley. Pineapple "With Rum. Select rlpo fruit, peel and remove tho oyes, cut the pineapple In half and tear apart with a silver fork, leaving the hard core In the hand. Sweeten and pour over tho fruit Santa Cruz rum, diluted with one-third water, using as a flavoring a small claret glass full for each pineapple. Stand on ice until well chilled. Emergency Ice Cream. To make avdellclous ice cream that re quires no cooking and, withal, is not over rich or extravagant, use good quality con densed milk. To each can allow three of the same measure of sweet milk, flavor with half a dozen bananas or a quart of peaches pressed through a sieve, sweeten and freeze. When half frozen open tho can ana add naif a. pint of cream, whipped, replace the cover and freeze until solid. If peaches are used, add a few drops of pink vegetable coloring. Crabs With Sauce Trtnr. Select crabs that are absolutely soft Fry them in the best olive oil. without breading and stand on ice until thoroughly cold. For the sauco make Mayonnaise dressing, and to each half pint add one tablcspoonful of capers, chopped, one tea spoonful of onion Juice, three olives and one.gerkin, also finely chopped, and ono tablcspoonful . of parsley, pounded .to a pulp. Household Bints. Boll trays represent a recent addition to the household china list. They aro long and exactly the width of a Vienna rolL For casement window curtains of Tudor cloth, a creamy tinted, soft material of silk and wool are new and exceedingly effective. The prevailing fancy for gxcen and white has extended to glassware, partic ularly the decorative type, and vases, rose-bowls and similar articles are to bo had in these fashionable colors In moire pattern. ' Fishnets and lace striped scrims make dainty draperies for fancy bed dressing. A pretty way to make the spread Is to Join the widths of net and scrim with in sertion and finish with a three-Inch frill to match. A convenience for the toilet table Is a "Boston pin-cushion." It Is a four-inch cubo of white satin, stiff only on the bottom. Tho fivo sides aro filled each with pirn? of some particular color put in in star or diamond shape. Tho breakfast frame is tho 20th century designation of tho receptacle for vlner gar, oil, mustard, etc., known a genera tion or so ago as a caster. In sterling and quadruple plate the silversmiths aro turning out somo handsomely chased frames fitted with richly-cut gloss bot tles. Hero Is an English recipe for tea cakes, which Is highly recommended: One pound ot flour, a full one-half ounce of butter and lard, ono egg, a pinch of salt. & dessert-spoonful of sugar and one i. CLEVER XEBDLETVOMAX. ready-made production a dear possession, but women clever with the needle find in such styles agreeable 'outlets for su perfluous energies. "Indeed," said my modlsto yesterday, "so many ladles aro making their gowns tills season that It Is seriously affecting business." The revival of hand stltchery has brought this about, as well as the great improvement in paper patterns, which at many of the good places are now cut to measurements. Then Fashion now calls for so many frocks that the ma jority of us are compelled to economize on the making. Delicious inspiration for tho clever needlewoman is a gown of amber or gandy and black lace, over watermelon pink silk. Embroidered rings, enclosing disks of black and white footing alter nating in narrow strips trim this with bewildering effect. On the skirt the rings border odd ovals of tucked organdy stitched with black; these heading an embroidered foot flounce- Above, all over the skirt, are the same ornaments, large and small, a row around a tucked COLD DISHES, BUT TASTY AND SUBSTANTIAL, ARE NEEDED r HINTS ON SERVING ounce of yeast dissolved in a gill ot warm milk; mix it lightly and quickly with a knife, handling it as little as may be, shape It Into scones or bun;, patting these Into shape with the mixing- knife, and bake. As a fertilizer for the kitchen garden the water In which dishes have boon washed Is highly recommended. Tomato plants are said to thrive particularly well If treated to a bath of this water, which must be poured around tho roots only and not upon tho foliage of tho plant. A starch for handkerchiefs that will mako them look exactly as they did when taken from the box in the shop Is mado by placing six drops of bluing In two quarts of water and adding a piece of raw starch the slzo of a walnut. Care must be taken to thoroughly dissolve the starch and to let nono of it settle in the piece shaping a basque effect at the back and hips. The lower portion of 'the blouse bodice Is of tho plain organdy. The upper con sists of an embroidered yoke, cut low at the front, and lacing at the bust with black bebe velvet. More rings border thl3 and cover tho gathered elbow sleeves; end a very pretty point is a girdle of bias black velvet, whose sharply, narrowed ends tie- in a bow at the fronts Long gloves of black cllk or black kid stiched with white accompany all gowns de sortie with 'elbow sleeves. Silk and thread mlts are also seen, but these, being unbecoming to any but tho most beautiful hands and arms, are not in marked favor. Tho most stylish gloves of the season are In a mixture of thread and silk. These fit as snugly as kid and are as expensive. Finger tips are doubled, the short gloves show ing heavy stltchlngs at the back and big, mannlsh-lcoking pearl buttons. Try them if you want your hands to look modish and feel comfortable at the same time. One dollar will buy a very dapper pair, and they may b6 either all white or black stitched with white. The last sort arc good purchases for all round wear. But, however stylish they are. all the world does not wear the black and white gloves, tnany smart women pre ferring a glovo to match the gown. In the pale grays, brown3 and violets of the new cotton textures these seem very fetching. Hot-weather underwear is Just now being made a specialty with many of the good shops. A pleasing simplicity is observed in the best of these pretty garments, which are in tho thinnest textures, and white as usual predomi nating over color. Batiste. French dim ity and lawn arc some of the coolest ma terials, these sporting tho simplest em broideries, or lace headings strung with narrow ribbons. Tho lawn chemises and drawers with narrow "Valenciennes edg ings are admirable purchases. "With every washing these seem to get more sheer, and compared with other materials the lawn things are very cheap. Several new models aro observed in the various departments, the princess petticoat being one very late and. pretty novelty. This has tho boned corset gir dle of the princess gowns worn several seasons ago, with ornamental stltchlngs for tho gussets and deep embroideries for tho skirt bottom. A thin white linen is tho material most used for such mod els, whose flttcd waist portions require a texturo with sonic body. Tho Empire chemise, a dainty short-walstcd little garment with babjish puff sleeves, is another pretty novelty, and many of the thinnest nightgowns have wide klmona sleeves. A .very neat and Inexpensive gown Is of white striped batiste with -plain lawn friil edgings; and for thoso who suffer much from Summer heat there are mod els so cut at the throat as to seem al-' most decollete. Such styles boast no sleeves to speak of, the arm covering being tho tiniest of puffs. They are drawn In at the bottom with narrow wash ribbons, run through lace or em broidery headings, the same simple treat ment showing at the round or square cut neck, s Very little silk underwear is now worn by smart women, tho most elegant of the fashionable preferring the daintier cottons. But the shops are full of silk under-rigging, which somebody must buy. The best things in this lino aro made of a very delicate quality of white china silk, with tho hems of frills and flounces fagottcd on. - Drawers aro wider than ever, looking in some cases, with their deep flounces, like divided skirts. 'Twenty-seven Inches is the modish length for these. MARY DEAN. r bottom of the bowL After the handker chiefs have been washed and dried In the usual way, dip each one separately in this starch, squeeze as dry as possible with tho bands, and lay smoothly in a toweL Iron with care. In so simple a matter as slicing bacon there Is a right way and a wrong. Lay ydu bacon on a board with tho rind slde down. Thon with a very sharp kniie cut the -bacon In thin, uniform slices down to the rind, but do not try to cut through it. When you have a sufficient number of slices cut run the knife under, keeping it close to the rind, and tho slices will be free. After your bacon Is sliced off do not throw the rind away as useless. Scrub off the outside with plenty of water and a vegetable brush, and uso tho rind with the scraps of fat remaining to season your dried pea soup, or your kettle of "greens." CHAMLIG HOT WEATHER TJ 7 D E BAVE THE AMERICAN GIRL'S VOICE THE laudation which has been so freely given "to tho American girl In recent years has not included praise of her voice. Her beauty, dress, manner, vivac ity, style and wit have all come in for praise, but there is yet to be heard in the chorus even a .small note dwelling on the music of her voice. Modern writers abroad havo avoided tho ludicrous error made by so many of their predecessors In attributing to all American women a fondness for the use of slar.g spoken through tho hose. Only a very few women -from certain parts o" the East talk with the nasaf" twang. Just as cer tain other localities stamp their natives with the burr, rather pleasant In contrast with the lilgh-pltchcd typical New York voice. , Whether It Is because American women have proved so successful in social life abroad or not. It Is difficult to say, but of late tho shrill American voice has been made the fashion In London to such an extent that a gathering" of duchesses re sembles vocally ho group around a Eroadway soda fountain after the matinee. At no time of the year is tho bad voice of the American woman more In evidence than in Summer, when travel and the open-air life . of the resorts give aggres sive opportunities to its clarion note. It rounds from hotel and cottage piazza, on the links and the courts, on driveway and beach from June until September. In the open air it seems at its very worst until you hear it resounding in a Pull man car or a hotel office, and it makes you wince. Yoij listen for the voices of the children, but you find no relief. The same squealing, brassy effect is In evidence, only more poignant in Its youthfulncss. This would seem to indicate that the American girl is born with this defect, but this Is not the case. The shrill voice of the American child Is largely the result of Imitation and environment. Just as a few years ago a child who pronounced "dog," "doll," "coffee," "coffin" correctly was laughed at, so today a deep-voiced child would bo made fun of. Today in the schools "dawg," "dawl," "cawflln," "cawffee" arc acknowledged to be among the most unpleasant peculiari ties of American pronunciation, but the shrill voice obtains. Tho fact that the American voice responds Immediately to cultivation Is best proved by the nice voices of some of the leading actresses. The women of Russia. Italy, Ireland. England, all have better voices than the SERMONETTE ON THE GARBAGE PAIL TIMELY SUGGESTIONS FOR THE ABATING OF A COMMON SUMMER NUISANCE r THE HYGIENE OF DRINKING AND here is a sermonetto on the gar bage pall. Text, n Kings, lv:40: "There is death In the pot." Theme An Important factor in home sanitation. First Head Bewarol Second Head Bo warned l Third Head Be wise! Conclusion "Watch out!" "Eternal vig ilance Is the price of liberty." If anything has to be neglected during the Summer, don't let it be the garbage pall. Dust on the piano is bad. Specks onthe mirror or wlndQws are annoying. You can't always find time to make cake for tea nor plo for dessert. Tho sheets and towels may have to be folded and put under a weight to cava Ironing; the baby wear colored slips to economize in washing. All these limita tions may be grievous in a measure, but they aro not of vital Importance. Tnw care of the garbage pail Is. Death and destruction sit .on the rim of the neglected pall and bacteria and mi crobesmalevolent ones multiply apace. Decaying fruit and vegetables are Just as poisonous aa meat, only not quite so noticeable. Tho best garbage can, from a sanitary point of view. Is of galvanized Iron, with a cover of tho same. If you Hvo,in the city, where the Health Department min ions play "Ono old cart" with your pall, tossing it with infinite abandon from sidewalk to cart and back again, it Is the only kind that can "stand the racket" for any length of time. If you are a suburbanite or a dweller Alt. ONE THING HER ADMIRERS DO NOT PRAISE IN HER INHALA TION AND FUMIGATION GOOD FOR THE VOCAL CHORDS' women of America, so it cannot be urged : that our cllmato la responsible for the j trouble, for each of the countries named l has a varying climate, that of England being especially Injurious to the vocal or gans. Tho pitch of the American woman's voice seems to bo its most Important de fect. It is noisy, brassy, assertive. Even In tho colleges and at college gatherings "the strident high voice la noticeable. The laughter of, the American girl is nothlnc short, of disagreeable, and this can always . be noted In matinee audiences when a comedy is being presented. This, of course, applies to women of tho North. Tho Southern women have a pe- J cullarly soft and charming voice, ono of tneir greatest attractions. It expresses refinement, cordiality and gentleness, for the volco next to the eye 13 expressive of the character, and some say that it tells far more In Its unconscious notes. An American contralto has opened a studio in New York for the purpose of teaching American women how to uso and train their voices. The Idea of tho venture came to her at a Washington re ception where a statesman called her at tention to the chatter around them and said that when he had the money to spare he would endow a college where American women might be taught to talk correctly. The new teacher, like others who havo observed that tho American voice has grown worse. Instead of bqtter, has noted that even oh the stage at the best thea ters some of the leading women are not allowed to talk in this disagreeable, high pitched fashion, possibly for tho reason that the idea Is to imitate fashionable talk. Considering the fact that women pay so much attention nowadays to the beau tifying of their complexion and hair and the accenting of their charms generally. It Is surprising that more caro is not taken of the voice. Deep breathing, which is now prescrib ed as a remedy for many Ills, is an ex cellent tonic that speedily shows its effect in the deepening of the conversa tional tones. Singing Is an excellent ex ercise and little girls who insist that they do not know how to sing should be en couraged to learn, as tho voice for speak ing will mellow and grow musical even though the singing may not become a marked accomplishment. A coarse volco is hardly moro disagree- I able than a harsh, shrill one, and few American women have coarso voices. A distinct low tone Is the proper manner in which to speak. The loud voice not only shows bad training but Indicates an unpleasantly domineering spirit. Calling or shouting from ona room to 5 another, a habit "to which children aro on broad acres, any whole receptacle, tin or even wood, will do, provided It is fre quently scalded, disinfected and dried out. One of the flve-gallon -kerosene cans make a very good pall, with a piece of baling wire fastened In for a handle. Keep an old broom for cleaning out the pall. Take it out on the grass, turn the hoso or tea kettle on it and scrub. Onco a week a disinfectant Is In order. A good ono to keep on hand Is prepared In this way: Dissolve a half pint or washing soda In six quarts of boiling wa ter. A cupful of this added to the clean ing water will be quite sufficient. Do not throw the contents of your pall, If it be trimmings and parings of vege tables, etc., on the garden to decay, it there are no animals on the place to eat them, either bury and thU3 enrich the soil, or burn. If the latter, dry out first, so as not to crack the stove. Orange and lemon peel ing, peach, apricot and cherry pits make admirable kindling when dried. Bones burned and pounded aro excellent for making hens lay, or for giving an impetus to your rose bushes or grape vines. If you have no drain and are forced to throw your dishwater out on the grouno, a solution of copperas (a pound and a half to a gallon of water Is a good pro portion), should be sprinkled around once or twice a week. Lastly, remember that upon you, Madame Chatelaine, rests much of the responsibility for the comfort and health of your household. There Is oc casionally a servant who may be de pended upon to carry out your Instruc tions without your personal attention, but such a one 13 a rara avis. Tho wise woman looketh well to the ways of her house hold, and even to the unromantlc but es sential garbage pall. Tho Hygiene of Drinking. There Is no doubt that wo do not drink enough. Our bodies consist largely of water, and tho average mart" needs to drink from four to six pints of water dally In order to maintain health. This is the amount of water eliminated from tho body by means of tho kidneys, tho skin and lungs- It is evident that a fresh supply is constantly needed to sup ply this lost aid in tho process of diges tion and carry away waste matter. If tho amount of water Imbibed Is not sufficient for all this, the health must suffer. Air, water and food aro the es sentials of Hfo in tho order given. A person can fast a long time experi ments havo proved this but that samo person could not get along without water for that length of time. As a usual thing, women are tho ones who suffer tho most from an Insufficiency of water. Mothers should seo to It that their children have plenty of water to drink. I There is a diversity of opinion regard ing drinking at meals. Some assert that the practice is injurious, as It dilutes tho gastric Juice. Others again claim that a glassful of pure drinking water taken during tho process of mastication Is healthful. On ono point, however, all authorities agree; namely, that ico water Is Injurious. Whenever we have a spell of hot weath er It Is customary for the wise ones to warn their friends not to drink things. There is a certain truth in this, but the discomfort that arises from reaction. If the drink 13 too cold, is the basis of it all. Perspiration is apt to follow, satu rating the clothing and causing discom fort. The fact is, we need more water during hot weather or when exercising. Our food, of course, contains a portion of this needed liquid, especially tho fruits and vegetables, and thirst Isnot experi enced so often with a vegetarian diet. There , 13 no doubt but that hot water quenches thirst in most Instances better than cold. Taken regularly at the rate of one glassful half an hour before meals. It promotes digestion, and in catarrhal conditions of the stomach' is recommend ed by physicians. It has also been tried as a remedy for insomnia. Many nervous troubles would be greatly benefited by Increasing the amount of water consumed, and constipation is largely the result of an Inadequate sup ply of water. j One of the reasons people thrive at min eral springs is that outside of any "medi cinal properties the springs may possess, they drink much more water than at home. There be those who havo the courage to drink warm tea in Summer, In tho faith that the reaction will be cooling. It takes courage on a hot Summer day to resist the alluring signs displayed of birch beer and soda water, to say noth ing of Iced tea and milk, but tho fre quent use of theso drinks Is hard on tho digestive apparatus. It seems almost vain to preach against these cooling drinks for hot weather, but oris can at least advise moderation. An English writer advises that when addicted, should bo discouraged. Shouting and screaming at play, which many school-girls delight in doing, has a bad effect on the voice. The tendency to cry out in anger, pain, surprise. Joy. should bo corrected. Scold ing will permanently ruin a woman a voice. Even though she be praying her volco betrays the unpleasant disposition. Throat diseases allowed to run uncheck ed because they may be slight will make the voice unpleasant In time. It will be come hoarse and indistinct. When ona is suffering from a cold or sore throat which produces hoarseness It la wise to the voice. Onlon3 and lemon Juice are both ex cellent ttonlcs for the voice. Some physi cians prescribe a preparation of peroxldo of hydrogen for singers. Baked apples, the yolks of raw eggs and buttermilk aro said to have properties that Improve and clear the voice. Tobacco and alcohol are both Injurious and highly spiced food Is not good. Inhalation and fumigation are good for the vocal chords. There are many candles possessing Ingredients that arc beneficial and certain fruits are good. But deep breathing of pure air and oxerclse will soon have a beneficial effect on the voice. Deep breathing exercises will change a man's falsetto voice to a full and rich one, will cure sore throats and glvo flex ibility to the tones. Deep breathing is really a system of lung gymnastics. The bad American voice is best known to the musical directors who choose girls for the choruses of operas. They do not expect musical ability among tho appli cants for places In tho chorus, but they must have voices that will harmonize. A girl with a pretty face and figure will seem an acquisition until she sings tho few lines that are used as a test for tho chorus novices. Even among those chosen the voices are. as a rule, peculiarly un musical, a fact which will be always no ticed when a girl has a lino or two to speak in a burlesque or comic opera. In talking to servants, to tradespeople, to children, as much care must be ob served as In conversation In the drawing-room. Onco the habit of modulating the volco becomes fixed the victory Is as sured. There Is' a certain hypnotic effect to which women are susceptible when con versing with another woman who may pitch her voice at the high nervous ten sion. Unconsciously the other woman will fol low the lead, and In a few moments both will be carrying on the typically loud American conversation entirely audible to every person within 10 feet or more. If an orchestra Is performing In tho room the voices grow shriller, and when the music stops suddenly tho voices keep on in Just the same way. the rest cure, which has become so pop ular, is undertaken at home, milk should be freely used. A glass Is taken In tho early morning, another sipped at break fast, a third In tho mlddlo of tho day. one In the afternoon and finally one just beforo retiring at night. Generally speaking, the theory advo cated by the best physicians nowadays Is to drink often and much. It cleanses tho system, increases circulation and helps to mako a clear complexion. There fore, yo men and women, tho latter es pecially, drink. Take clear, pure water, and be thankful so slmplo a remedy of nature is near at hand. The Vosrne of the Dot. In the Summer shirtwaists and In their belts and stocks and cuffs and in every other part you notice the dot. The tend ency to dot things grows, and there aro more and more methods of doing it. There Is the big velvet lozenge dot, which Is mado by cutting lozenges of velvet of blue or pink and applying them to waists according to taste. Take a waist of taffeta, plain and un tucked, and apply lozenges of turquolso velvet to the yoke, and also to the lower part of the sleeve. When you have com pleted your work you will find that you have mado a really handsome waist out of it, and If you want to give it the French finish you can apply lozenges to tho lower part of the waist for a space of abouf six Inches above tho belt. The work must be done with small stitchef, to look as though the velvet were woven In the goods. Several clever dressmakers are really gluing theso dots on and finishing their work with a few Invisible stitches. . Xotea of Fashion. Novelty dress fabrics Include shot eta mines and grenadines. The pongee corset Is ono of the espe cially favored styles for Summer wear. Tho handsomest of the new combs of tortoise shell and amber are embellished with small pearls and diamonds. Unen gowns In tho pretty new shades Govrn of hlaclc nntl white Swiss over apple green sillc of green, blue, pink and gray are made with Gibson waists stitched with white. Marie Antoinette fichus and Corday berthas are a distinctive and attractive feature of seme of the prettiest Summer gowns. For trimming linen lawn dresses, Paris Ian modistes and tailors are effectively employing linen passementerie la soft ecru shades. Another pretty shoulder wrap is com posed of mauve tulle, covered with maeses of Parma violets and tiny Ivy foliage and berries. Silks in black and white and blue and white checked effects are expected to bo very fashionable In the Fall for gowns and separate waists. One of tho newest of the flower trimmed pelerines is of brown tulle, wltlx green mos3 edgings finished with jsrel satin bow and ions: ends.