The Sunday Oregonian., July 13, 1902, PART FOUR, Page 28, Image 28

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28
WANT
THE Sandow girl is in stylo. The
new shirtwaists are built so that
a woman looks twice aa wide as
she Is.
In her skirt she looks narrower, for
skirts are very clinging and they are
fitted as far down aB the knees. But the
figure must be broad and apparently mus
cular, ep that the midsummer woman
comes very near being top-heavy.
, The new waists are made with the
shoulder plait This Is a fold of cloth 1
which Is put on in such a manner that
It projects over the shoulders. In cor
tainhape It is called the "Glbsonlan"
and Its Immediate effect is to make the
shoulders look very wide. It Is really
more becoming to a slender "woman than
to a plump one, but both styles are wear
ing it and you are gradually getting used
to the woman whq looks twice as broad
as she did in the spring.
Sleeves display the same peculiarity.
They are tucked In rows of tucking run
ning around the arm and they are trimmed
with bands of lace going round and round,
all of which tend to make the sleevo large
and the arm big.
Waists as a rule show the trimming
put on, not from the neck to the belt,
but around the flguTe and lace Is used In
a great variety of other ways, always
running around.
Ways to TJe Lace. --
There Is one kind of lace trimming
wnich Is very nice and dressy upon the
Summer shirtwaist and. which fortun
ately Is of a sort that can be put on at
home. It consists of a wide band of lace
insertion sometimes sir Inches wide and
this Is put around the waist directly
under the arms, fastening in the back
There Is another way of using lacs
upon the waist and for this, if it be a nice
waist, filet lace is used. It Is first seen
In the form of a yoke rather deep, then
there Is a band of it around the bbttom
of the shirtwaist so as to come in under
the belt. A hip yoke on the skirts sets
below the belt. Then there are cuffs of
the same lace.
It is the' apparent desire of the Sum
mer shirtwaist to close Itself invisibly.
You must not see how the little trick Is
done. There are a few waists that hook
under the arms, but these are hard to
get Into and still harder to get out of.
Moreover, the hooks show or are apt to
do so and they do not wash well.
The waist that buttons down the back
is quite the fad. It is buttoned la vari
ous ways, the most popular of which,
just for the moment. Is under an invisible
flap making It impossible to see where
the waist closes. A fold runs down the
back of the waist on either side of the
flap looking exactly like it.
The front of such a -waist as this beaTS
so resemblance whatever to the back.
It is plain as far as buttons are con
cerned, though it may be profusely
trjmmed with lace, or embroider', or with
ribbon, or whatever may be the chosen
style of the garment.
Black Velyet Finish
The waist that buttons a little at one
.side of the front Is very artistic and in
the new ones it Is seen with small bows
of ribbon fastening it, each little bow
being tied around a button. But these
buttons are only a bluff; the real "work is
done by small pearl ones set underneath
and buttoned invisibly.
The waist that buttons at one side is
not of the double-breasted variety. One
side is cut "wider than the other and the
waist Is buttoned where the edges meet,
making It quite cool and different from the
very heavy double-breasted style.
Skirts are now fastened to defy obser
vation and waists are fast following their
lead. Some of the new Londonvstyles are
really very cleverly contrived and the
buttoning down the back is managed by
means of curious little hooks greatly re
sembling glove snaps. "
Everything these days must be done In
a washable manner, garments that cannot
be tubbed are not popular during the Sum
mer months find It is the aim of every
woman who dresses smartly to "wear
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TO LOOK BRO AD-CHESTED
clothes that can be put In the tub and
rubbed.
The taller-made Summer girl is spec
ially built on this order and it is her boast
that all her garments can be washed.
Really there are a great many Summer
dresses, wash dresses so called, that can
not be washed. They must be sent to
the cleaners for the magical process and
their renovation costs by the season's
end a little fortune, but that Is quite an
other story and one that Is apparently
not taken into account by the dressmak
ers and designers when they get up the
Summer wash dresses.
Midsummer Trimming.
The Sumnier shirtwaist, when not
trimmed with lace, and sometimes when It
is lace trimmed, is hand embroidered. A
little hand embroiderj't no matter how lit
tle of Jt tlujre may be, gives a certain air
of distinction to a waist not to bo gained
In any other way.
Then there are waists that are entirely
embroidered, and these possess a very
great value on account of the hand work
that is upon them.
There are a few shirtwaists made out of
handkerchief linen with the fronts em
broidered in white, a large design com
ing Irom the belt upward so that the up
per leaves and sprays just touch the neck.
These are done in white cotton with a
glossy finish and the whole has a very
fine, sheer and elegant look.
The blouse front still prevails and la
even more popular than it was. The en
tire waist docs not blouse, but Is quite
on the tightfittlng order, except right is
the middle of the front where it pouches
over tho belt.
In Paris they are pointing this pouch
to give the waist a long look, but the
London shirtwaists have a .square blouse
front which shortens the wriist a little,
but is more becoming to the figure.
Shirtwaists are bought every month in
the year and from month to month the
materials change almost Imperceptibly
and you will notlco that you yourself buy
different materials as the season goes on,
and from one goods you progress to an
other. Just, now thero are two extremes in
shirtwaists, one being the very thin, fine
afternoon waist and the other the heavier
one for utility. Madras in white and In
colors Is deservedly popular and can be
seen in white, pale blue and pink.
The Durable IClnds.
"White Irish dimity is always good and
linen zephyr has a certain cool quality
which makes It In demand at all times.
Both of these wear very well and now
that the golf season Is here this is no
email consideration. In thr heavier waists
there Is butcher's linen which lends ltselfN
nicely to the embroidery needle and white
pique while heavy can also be embroid
ered If the stitches are not too long or
the patterns too coarse.
Duck really adapts itself better to the
polka dot. or as the French aay, the rain
drop, and to the French knot, and really
beautiful effects are produced In this
everyday material by judicious arrange
ment of the polka dot.
Dotted Swiss is something that is very
well known and tbjs year they are taking
the dots and scattering French knots,
through them. The Swiss Is bought with
as large dots ao possible, then, upon these,
French knots arg made. If industry
holds out the French knots are scatterod
over the goods between the polka dots
and the whole has a very neat look and Is
quite distinctive because It Is something
that cannot be bought ready made.
And, by the way, the prejudice against
ready-made garments Is wearing off. Peo
ple who once felt that they did not want
to wear what everybody else Is wearing
have now forgotten that Idea because of
the wide range of goods offered. It has
come to a pass that you can buy ready
made dresses and yet travel a whole day
without seeing another dress exactly like
your own.
The Augmst Waist.
The August -waist promises to bo a 10
cent shirtwaist. Now this dpes not mean
that the whole waist costs 10 cents, but it
Is an economical way of saying that your
waist was only 10 cents a yard.' Materi
als are very much reduced and certain
linens, albatross, cotton grenadine, mouse
sellne, cotton foulard, crash, twills, dimi
THE SUNDAY
ties and sporting linens can all be had
at 10 cents a yard or a little over. So,
also, can percales and. cotton prints, and
there are new transparent canvases with
open work stripes that aro very good for
tubable suits.
Unfortunately it is not the goods that
cost these days, but the trimming that
goes upon the goods, and it is no unusual
thing to see a waist whose materials cer
tainly cost less than a dollar trlxnmea'
with insertion that certainly cost more
than a dollar.
Tho elbow sleeve Is tho sleeve of the
Summer, but It cannot always be worn.
There aro times when, however comforta
ble you may be in such a sleeve you do
not care to wear it, and for this purpose,
that of lengthening the sleeve, there
comes the mandolin cuff, which Is a deep
HOW TO PACK A TRUNK
"" 'HE modern watchword of "conve-
venlence" has made great Innova
tions in tho construction and arrange
ment of trunks. One of the newest will
be dear to the heart of every woman,
being labelled "a skirt trunk."- It is 44
Inches long, thus admitting a skirt to be
stretched out at Its full length. The In
side is provided with a series of trays,
about five or six In number, and of tho
average depth of four Inches. Into these
the skirts are packed; lightweight ones
can be put In separately, but a particular
ly fluff, of bemuffled affair is assigned
an entire tray to itself, and thus Ten
dered perfectly safo from creases. One
or two of these upper long trays can be
used to pack waists In, and the top sec
tion is about seven inches deep, and di
vided into several partitions. Including
hat box and receptacles for ribbons, col
lars, underclothing and all small articles.
The attempts to carry more than one
hat in a general trunk has been aban
doned by tho woman of experience, and
a separate hat trunk Is considered a
necessity if three or more dainty hats
are required. These hat trunks in their
latest form are about the slzo of a big
hat box in which the milliner sends a
bat home. The floor and lid and each of
tlie four sides are fitted with a detach
able framo, to which tho hat Is adjusted
by a hatpin In the same manner as when
put on tho head. These frames may be
removed from the trunk, and the empty
trunk used as an ordinary packing trunk
fora visit of a few days. Externally It
has the appearance of an Englishman's
"box."
The trunk in -which waists and skirts
are hung on frames from hooks in the
HINTS FOR
CLEAN hair brushes are essential to
the health of the hair and scalp, and
the worst cases of dandruff are often to
bo traced to carelessness in this matter.
Directly the brush shows the least grlm
iness, wash it in borax water. Do not
have the water more than lukewarm,
and "pat" it with the brush, being care
ful only to dip In the bristles, for wash
ing Is by no means Improving to the pol
ish of the back. When clean, rinse in
clear, cold water, and dry In the air. Do
not put the brush In tho sunshine or by
the Are, or the bristles will soon become I
yellow.
For shiny nands, wash In hot water
and green soap, rinsing in water to which
tincture of benzoin has been added. Fin
ish by Ubing lotion compound, equal parts,
lmon juice and rose water. On going out
put any good toilet powder In your
gloves.
For glycerine Jelly for the hands, take,
2 ounces of glycerine, add 30 -grains of
gum tragacanth dissolved in 4 ounces of
water. PerfUme -with S drops of rose or
violet extract. Another ' recipe calls -for
OREGOInIAT. PORTLAND,
adjustable puff of lawn or cotton slashed
at tmo side In such a way that lace can
bo pulled out of tho slash. This makes
something that looks like a fringo or a
flounce set In the sleeve.
Thero come very nlco little gold pins for
pinning tho cuff to the elbow sleeve.
The cuff is, of course, another name for
the great puff which reaches all the way
from tho elbow to the wrist and which is
finished with a narrow cuffllko- point.
The pins, which aro of gold, or of tur
quoise, or of mock gems of any descrip
tion, are used to pin the two parts of the
sleeve together and of course since they
cost qultea little, they must bo distinct
ly visible.
The fad for uslng.the mock gem pin Is
on the increase and really waists are
pinned everywhere it is possible to pin
top (tho small end of tho trunk) answers
the purpose of a wardrobe or closet and
economizes space; tho top tray swings
out and Is seen to bo fitted out Hko a
small cupboard or chlffonlcre, with
shelves and little drawers.
But how about the woman with a com
paratively old-fashioned 36-Inch trunk?
Her task Is less easy, but by taking
thought she can savo her wardrobe from
creasfng and pack twlco as much in a
given space as her careless sister. The
first principle to be observed Is to keep
the contents of tho trunk In flat layers
this was evidently understood by the
man who first devised "trays." But a lot
more can bo packed in a trunk if the
trays are removed all except tho top one,
having several compartments in It, and
possibly the one Immediately beneath.
This second tray Is very useful when it
comes with the canvas strip or lattice
work instead of a board bottom, as then
It does not offer tho hard flat surface
to crush the lightweight gowns imme
diately beneath it.
The heavier things should bo put first
into the trunk. By heavier things x
meant woolen and cloth dress skirts,
golf cape or the steamer rug, which Is a
very useful article to take on land trips.
Fold the rug to a slzo corresponding to
the floor of the trunk, and lay It In. Then
comes tho golf cape, which can be folded
first on the floor, having tho folds In
the lines they would naturally take when
the cape Is hanging from the shoulders.
Pick tho skirts up by the waistbands
(jnhlch should be hooked in tho way In
tended when being worn) and let them
fall Into the natural folds. Lay them in
the trunk with the bottom edge of the
skirt touching the side end of the trunk.
Any folding which will bo necessary
should be made from tho waistband,
downwards, as a crease at this part will
THE TOILET
6 ounces of glycerine, one-half ounce of
glucose and 1 drachm of gelatine dis
solved in 3 ounces of water; add some
perfume.
For a polish for the nails, take one-halt
ounce of pure oxide of tin, 30 drop3 of
oil of lavender and carmine enough to
color. Rub on the nails with a polisher.
To prevent finger nails cracking rub In
cold cream at night; It will soften and
nourish them and remove the dull look
seen on nails of invalids. It Is often a
sign of Ill-health when nails crack and
split.
For an oily complexion, for hands which
perspire freely, and to increase the growth
of hair which is very oily, bathe the face
twice a week in warm water containing
powdered borax, the proportion being
one drachm (which is about a teaspoonful)
to one quart of water. Rinse in clear water.
Too constant uso of borax makes the
skin very dry. Once during theday wipe
the face with a cloth wrung out of water
containing a little alcohol, also wash the
hands with alcohol and water, the propor
tion being one drachm of alcohol to one
pint of water;, then powder the palms of
the hands witlrstarch or rice powder. To
increaso the growth of hair, you must
JULY 13, 1902.
them and always with one of these fancy
ornaments. There is a post at tho back
of the belt which Is always occupied by a
handsome pin and the back of the stock,
tlja middle of the chou, the cuffs and the
yoko'all afford places for the display of
such fancy pins as one may possess.
It Is tho day for reviving the seal ring.
The cameo has been "in" quite a little
whllo and all the family cameos havo
been pressed Into service. You see them
now as breastpins and as buckles and
stickpins, but the seal ring has only just
appeared.
It is time to jolly the elderly men in the
family into giving up their old seal rings
and when you have gotten possession of
them you must take them to a jeweler's
and have them made Into tops of pins.
This must be done -without removing the
SEASONABLE ADVICE
TO WOMEN WHO TRAVEL
THIS SUMMER
disappear moro quickly when the skirt
is afterward taken out and hung at
length In a closet, by reason of the weight
of the entire skirt being below tho crease.
The skirts should be placed In with the
bottom of one at the left end of ihe
trunk and tho bottom of the next at tho
right end. so on, alternating until all are
packed, as this gives an even distribution
of the bulk and preserves tho plan of
flat surfaces and paralleled layers. If the
skirt has a long train, the excess should
be folded back, from the point at which
it becomes- longer than the front and
sides. "vVhen the skirts are all thus dis
posed of (except tho very lightest-weight
ones having ruffles or flounces, which
should be reserved for the top of tho
section). If the underclothing can be put
in, petticoats at full length, smaller gar
ments in tho natural folds In which they
come from the laundry. These can be so
disposed over tho surface of the space
as to preserve the flatness of the mess.
"When the body of the trunk Is thus
packed, tho tray for waists Is next to be
considered. Anything finer than a laun
dried shirtwaist should havo tho sleeves
stuffed with tissue paper, and the neck
treated In the same way when the waist
has a collar on. Many waists can be
packed In tho same compartment with
perfect safety if this plan i3 pursued.
The top section of the trunk, divided
Into compartments, can be used to hold
the numerous small accessories of the
wardrobe. It Is well to leave shoe trees
inthe heavier walking shoes, but paper
stuffed into the toes of slippers will keep
them In shape. If your trunk contains a
nat box, remember that it 13 only In
tended for a hat, and do not. defeat it3
purpose by putting other things Into the
apparently surplus corners.
If you use common sense, you may
snap your fingers at the expressman.
HARMLESS AND
EFFECTIVE LOTIONS FOR
THE SKIN
use a tonic A good one Is made of alco
hol ono pint, castor oil half ounce, tinc
tures of cantharides ono drachm. Use
this on tho hair once a week, and once
a week glvo It an alcohol shampoo by
going over the wnole scaip with a small
brush dipped In water" containing alcohol.
This will make the hair less oily.
Glycerine Is never used successfully
alone to whiten the skin. It 13 a great
absorbent of molstnre also, and unless
mixed with rosewater or water Is very
drying- Two or three drops of tincture
of benzoin to a pint of water will bright
en the akin, but should bo used only two
or three times a week.
To make the hands white and smooth,
use cornmeal whenever you wash your
hands, rubbing It on as you would soap.
At night, after washing the hands In
warm water, apply a lotion made of
glycerine, two ounces; acetic acid, two
drachms; rosewater, three ounces. Wear
gloves at night; It softens the hands;
but this should be an occasional practice
only wearing gloves constantly at nights
makes the hands yellow.
Sulphur lotion for pimples Is made as
(Concluded on P&ge 31.)
AUTUMN FASHIONS DECREE THAT SHIRT
WAISTS SHALL BE WORN VERY LARGE
setting, for the glory of an old seal ring
is in the massive gold -which surrounds it.
It Is well to simply remove tho hoop part
of tho ring and set the- entire stone, gofd
and all, upon a pin which can be used
for the front of tho stock or for any post
of Importance.
Lacing: the "Waist.
Shirtwaists will bo laced this Fall,
though you do not see very many laced
ones now. But It is certain that as soon
as tho flannel blouses appear there will
come In vogue a rather intricate lacing
extending down the left side. It will be
managed by means of worked holes
through which .ribbon will be run. The
ribbon will be tied in a big bow at tho
left side of the belt and tho ends will
hang.
Persian embroidery 13 something that
will also reappear, and it will be used to
cover the buttons and buttonholes which
secure tho waists. Flannel blouses that
button at the left side will have a strip
of Persian embroidery running from the
shoulder right down to the belt. The
stock will also be a band of Persian em
broidery and possibly tho belt Itself.
About belts. Summer belt3 and belts
that are to come, one can say a great
deal. It Is the fashion to bo Industrious
and the Industrious girl can make a very
nice belt for herself out of heavy satin
ribbon. She must take black satin but
tons and sew them upon the ribbon, which
should be wide. In groups of three; around
these groups she must scatter very large
silk knots.
These little groups go all around the
belt. This is the stylo of belt worn by
Lady Randolph Churchill, now Mrs. Corn
wallis West, at a London afternoon tea
the other day. Her gown was in white
cloth and around the left It had a very
deep graduated flounce with, another
flounce above It and a third ono heading
that one.
English. Tailored Gowns.
The flounces grew narrower toward the
top and at the head of the uppermost one
there were groups of black buttons and
knots between. This was called an Eng
lish tailored costume and was Intended
for a Summer walking gown.
Belts are embroidered to a considerable
extent. Quite a smart belt was in white
leather fastened with a gold harness
buckle In the middle of the front. The
leather was cut to a point and bound with
yellow satin ribbon. At each side there
was a true lover's knot in yellow satin
ribbon, with the ends rather long and
swirled and sewed fast to Ihe leather.
A belt, named the King Edward, in
honor of King Edward's year, was in
burnt leather with small gold coronets
set all tho way around It. These gold
ornaments cost a few cent3 each and can
be obtained at any trimming store. An
other belt was trimmed with cord put on
iry greit curves all around the belt. In
each curve there was set a medallion of
lace and In the middle of the medallion a
turquoise button.
The tailored belts haye fobs hanging
from the side and the fob matches tho
belt buckle and there Is a stock buckle o
match both. Belt3 continue to be either
very wide ones or very narrow, and the
wide ones are worn high so as to look Hko
Josephine belts. Narrow ones are some
of them scarcely an Inch wide, and they
are pushed down well in front, though
no exaggeratedly so.
The idea which, prevails among stout
women that if they point the belt In
front they will look absolutely slender,
has disappeared, and women have about
resigned themselves to the fact that If
stout they cannot look thin.
Treating the Belt.
At 'the same time the woman who
weighs over COO pounds can attain a cer
tain degree of symmetry, If not grace, if
she will slightly lower the belt line in
front, and slightly raise It In the back,
the two working together produce a waist
line. To make a belt look high in the
back it Is very often cut In a curve or In
two points, while the front is narrowed.
There Is a new wrlnklb in belts which
gives the postilion back after a new fash
ion. Tails mado out of silk arc buttoned
to a belt with big torquolse buttons, and
the same stone Is used for a buckle In
front. This makes an ordinary belt quite
dressy, as there is something about tor
quoiso which glve3 an air of refinement,
probably because it is so smooth and
glossy.
Jets havo always been fashionable ever
since they came back, and you see them
now in many capacities. One of these is
in tho form of shirtwaist trimming, which
1 can be applied to any shirtwaist. If you
possess a waist that Is a little out of date
and what woman does not, procure enough
satin ribbon to reach across your bust
and let It be about four inches wide. Cut
it m four pieces, sew it to the underarm
seams and bring tho end around to the
front, and there button them with a large
button. When you have finished your
work your waist will be prettily strapped
across the bust, and mill have a becom
ingly full look.
Ono of the newly imported waists
showed this strap finished with a little
satin bow, with a large button set in the
middle of the bow.
Tho English cravat Is very fashionable
at,thls moment, though it Is not specially
new. It consists of a long strip of silk
ribbon which is tied directly under the.
chin In such a manner that tho bows are
very shor.t, almost butterfly loops, while
luu eiius nuns f'bU1- lu ulu "t-tu j-iicy
gradually widen, and are finished with
a sharp-pointed cut.
Cravats and Xeckrties.
The four-ln-hand Is now made out of
figured rlbon and tho handsomer the rib
bon tho better.
Ascots are mado of white satin ribbon
embroidered with green clovers and, la
a Btudy of the fashionable stock3, one cer
tainly does see a great deal of hand em
broidery so that it looks as If every wo
man would have to turn embroiderer
whether she wants to or not.
In the new stocks you notlco a ten
dency toward the long ends In front.
These are tied not so much under the
chin as lower down. Take a ribbon which
Is carried twice around the neck and
knotted under the chin in a tied double
knot.
The ends are row allowed to fall and
they sh- ild nearly come to the knees. But
there Is another bow to be tied and this
Is directly over the bust. It should be
a bow with two wide loops and If one i3
skillful enough there should be four loops
so that the whole thing when done is only
a little longer than the belt.
It Is a good plan, unless you are skill
ful at bow tjlng, to tie the thing before
it is put on and then fasten it in any
clever way so that it will look as though
it were freshly tied.
This matter of tying a ribbon every time
you put It on Is one of which jou will
soon tire, for ribbon ties only once be
fore It looks mussed and after that it i3
not pleasant to gaze upon.
The Coining of the Dot.
In the Summer shirtwaists and In their
belts and stocks and cuffs and In every
other part you notice the dot. The ten
dency to dot things grow3. and thero are
more and more methods of doing it. There
is the big elvet lozenge dot, which is
mado by cutting lozenges of -v elvct of blue
or pink and applying them to walst3 ac
cording to taste.
Take awalst of taffeta, plain and un-"
tucked, and apply lozenges of turquoise
velvet to the yoke and also to the lower
part of the sleeve. "When yod have com
pleted jour work you will find thit yoa
have made a really handsome waist out
of it, and If you want to give It the
French finish you can apply lozenges to
tho lower part of the waist for a space
of about six Inches above the belt.
The work must be done with small
stitches, to look as though the -elet
were woven In the goods. Several cleer
dressmakers are really gluing these dots
on and finishing their work with-Ti few
Invisible stitches.
The Summer shirtwaist colors are pale
and It is very difficult to get-a. dark waist.
Very frequently they como in combina
tions of two, three and four pale colors
and one of the loveliest of these waists
was in pale fawn and azalea.
Azalea Is a bluish pink and It is a color
which goes very well as a hat trimming.
Champagne colored dimity is very pretty
and can be made up over white to give it
the soft pallor now demanded by Dame
Fashion. AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.