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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 29, 1902)
2S THS.S1SNDAY OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND, JHKJJ 29, 1901 I GALmU COLORING m WOMEN'S WEAK II f ;ig515ySLSg 11 i I , ' I ... jj being the aristocrats of the sweater f am- mW&r& "-' - " ' ,: --' y&sSfSERaaV 1 BlBSr? iVT f ' j v 4 V - gPWIi-Ei? i'S ily. The model pictured shows tho shapo fl fla&ijfcf '' 'S&3mm$ 'f ISBhtSII ?CVJ ' I V ' 'S9wSIl PI of the "best of these garments, which have IfflfP. ' ' PaKI 3 , ?.! mMm&$M:. &f " )3Jfil-' A- Ii ' H lletBsflPf f! high, rolling collars and ribbed cuffs. &j V ' ' m; ' ' "W&m fjuSHPi'ifJ ' J' ' 'i-l- T;1 ' " ' rollij Kl They all blouse slightly at the front, and cJ L -..... ' '- -' "- ''-- M Jilt ! -"I BHr J&tim '' W '1 :t' PfiilV$ 1 1 ? -1 r ' ' . 'w rTf the neat girdle finish permits their being IJ IV, -- s ' Si : FPBT - stAWWWli Pi BBKL 'If -If l&; ' fYl& lll'IV - VV " '-! worn over the skirt belt The sweater M fii Mlb ' -'"'i i4 " Si'iMMflnF "" fry ' t';MWk A'f HB "$' '$? i-US"" ml&' v? -M V ' '" llfiillpf ' photograph fastens at the back. 3 5Bte-JIPWBBPS8WB,B!iWPsBM A'V HHH l2fi rS- f .Vmfe V'-''ir '-, il1 3j nina fitch. a JSWlWEi22!SIII ? r?-v l'-I HBP -'''M - :- ." & $;t:':ife - ' v' H :& 1 jt 7.U7iiw ---.'" ". fryrrffliK'mm' rrWMrTrrtB-iri.J- , -.-. - - . -.-g- t yr FTER centuries of threatening, mon sense? The force of our logic? No, 7 yH'' vV ' sAPLf Aw -rH jfrJ!i:T ''"'"' ' '" ' Wiffi-.iWg'gSte-i-"' fi Tia ,i .;'. .y Id urging, beseeching," said a Indeed! Fashion herself, our oia enemy, ttl jQOf - CCftJ yCvlS f1..t-'tJSt"'T'vl - k -1- H'"1 iwim M , iL-LiL.Jj' m w mr- - rf . - v .. . vv. . .. w w - w vv. - v ...-.., p a- -- - ii i -u. - T " z . z- i af i . r msu r w j r . . . "a.'v &J" 0 fls j &rLJi?L ?ITH the yachting and hop season approaching,' the shops are just' now making a specialty of esa- Elde fineries. Among the yachting cos tumes are some . wonderful creations In scarlet and white which are recommended to the good-looking girl; for, of course, one must be good-looking to wear start ling effects, and these red and white frocks are speakingly audacious. The red Is of the most flaming description, sug gesting Sir Henry Irvlng's Mepblslo, and, incidentally wickedness. This, however, is no drawback to Its charm, as all of the smartest things run to rather extrava-. gant bffecta Yachtlnsr Costume of Red and White. This dashing frock, which Is of whlto brllliantinc and thin scarlet cloth, pictures one yachting costume In the stylish com bination. The short Jacket Is of the red cloth. In the loose, side-pleated Eton shape now so much seon in black silk. It is lined with LoulaJno and ornamented at tho fronts with ribbon In the same shade, the red showing on the skirt in three bias bands and a flounce heading of rings. A white pongee shirtwaist and a vizored cap of scarlet cloth complete the cpstume. Yachting gowns of white brllliantine with navy blue trimmings are seen in the same model. In both combinations they can be had as low as $22, the jacket and skirt comprising the suit. Yachting suits In "spotted duck" small nod or blue stars on a white ground are also seen. with the jacket and skirt bonds In solid color. Then, for white duck and flannel suits, there are short, odd coats of blue or red flannel, which arc both smart and useful. Brass buttons, gilt braids and nautical emblems trim the cheapest of these, whereby you may understand that the most desirable models are severely plain. Hop Gown of "White Point d'Enprit. It is chiefly the duty of the fashion writer to tell of Inexpensive loveliness, but truth compels me to state that the scoond costume cannot be picked up on the bargain counter, aiade of silk point d'esprit over heavy white taffeta, it is necessarily an expensive creation, but there are cotton nets and cheap lining silks which would lend themselves charm ingly to the same simple design. The pipings of the skirt and the bands of the neck frill and sleeves are of white satin, cut bias and stitched In the middle. The came satin girdles the waist In a soft crush belt, with a bias postillion bow at the back one of those -upstanding, bird like bows that imitate jacket tails. The rosette at the front of the bodice is also of the same, and white chiffon (bias and gathered loosely) shapes a becoming ber tha and sleeve frills. Tho pearl bead necklace, which so daintily encircles the young woman's fair throat, is a late novelty in jewelry. Tht newest of these short -nock chains are all provided with pendants, tho dangles being usually oval or pear-shaped. Some odd and very attractive ones are seen In the Japanese shops, where, contrasted with dull gold, glittering Brazilian beetles are sometimes set as pendants. The effect Is a little creepy, but it Is dellclously new, and you are comforted by one thought the bugs are dead! Sillc "Waist "With Patrick Green. Speaking of green, for the Brazilian beetles aro all green, this refreshing color is just now the dominant note In the fashion world. Combined with a deep, jewel-like blue, the Patrick shade the greenest thing ever dreamed of Is much seen In hats, a sewing silk veiling with huge blue velvet discs being one novelty la it. This is used as a hat trimming only, to swathe brims and dangle In ends behind. On the top of the hat, which Is as flat as flat and as blue as blue, there are usually two green parrots, as flat, too, as ifxan automobile had run over them. The third picture shows the Invasion of the fancy bodice by this highly popular color. Yhlte taffeta, tucked over cords, is the material of this handsome bodice, which displays a decoratlvo banding made of strips of green velvet over a bias of the white. Small gilt buttons hold these dewn at the center, and the long green silk tie Is finished with deep ends of tucked white organdie. Around all the scarf there is a border of white fagoting between a narrow bias of the silk. Hand-Knitted Golf Sweater. For golfing, boating and other athletic pleasures, worstod sweaters have been ac cepted as most useful garments. Some of th"m are also coquettish enough to Inspire another "Kroutzor Sonata," for, like the celebrated Jereoy of the Tolstoi novel, tl-ey ft "naughtily" into the figure. Those o wh te wool, hand-knlttod in. a heavy honey-comb stitch, are tho ones to choose, DECLINE OF THE LOW GIRDLE Fashion Dictates Higher Corsets FTER centuries of threatening. urging, beseeching," said a physician a year or go ago, "that women should lay aside the corset and be as God made them, we have seen the desire of our hearts practically ac complished.' But what has dono it? Com mon sense? The force of our logic? No, indeed! Fashion herself, our old enemy, converted to a better condition of mind." The good doctor had reference to tho low girdle which has been so popular. Truly, the corset had not been laid aside, but tho gentle pressure of tho wee girdle tf&ffs i could hardly rank with the construction hitherto deemed necessary Dy me woman of fashion. L.ungs filled as full of sweet air as anyone could wish. There seemed to have been an emancipation proclama tion by Dame Fashion. But what Is the word just now? "The low girdle Is old-fashioned. Corsets are higher, coming quite over the bust In some styles." It is a hard saying for some. But there 13 balm' In Gilead. The fat, sloppy woman is now debarred from making an exhibition of herself on the public street; and that is a comfort, at any rate. Then, corsets, while higher, are not too high. The very stylish shapes shown in the Illustrations aro cer tainly far from uncomfortable. Then, too, the girdle of ribbon or tape is still on the market, finding a ready sale among the young girls and very slender people. Really, If you have been a devotee of the girdle (and you're a sensible woman If you were) there la no reason why you should not go on wearing one and taking your fill of comfort. There was never a corset on the market which showed to such advantage a graceful and well formed woman. Fashion may have strayed a Jong way from the Greek Ideal, but the world Is not yet so sunk In slavish imitation that it is not attracted by a suggestion of these nobly sculptured women which have always been the ad miration of the world. But If it Is your desire. Madam (a not unworthy desire, certainly!) to be strictly up-to-date, buy a corset not lower than the models shown here. There is no reason why it should not bo perfectly comfortable. You lace it, of course, one beginning from tho top and the other from the bottom. My lady, who has a maid, does not need to have recourse to this device, but for ordinary woxk-a-day mortals it is the one and only way. No body laces too tightly now, of course. Small waists, thank the powers, have distinctly not come back as fashionable. "When, in tho course of your Summer rambles, you reach a town where fash ion docs not readily permeate, note the waists of the pretty girls, and rejoice that ihe initiated have- been released from such torture. - As to Summer lingerie, now. Are not the petticoats here displayed exquisite? It would seem that, If there was on point which the prespectlvo Summer girl, or matron either for that matter, might be a little"! just a little, extrava gant. It would be the petticoat. Ham mockswhat a vista of petticoat possi bilities the wcrd calls up! "What said that naughtly little Elizabeth, who paid the visits, when she swung in a ham mock? "Jane wouldn't come; she said It made her sick, and she was shocked at me. But I knew it was just because her frillies were not pretty enough." And now, to the hammock danger, has been added ping pong. You will take your stand, a room full of people, and fly mad ly after a bewitchedJball, and that cheap petticoat may be your undoing. Besides, happy thought! In the mornings and even afternoons golf skirts and "sensible" costumes are so absolutely de rlgeur, that there will have to be fewer fluffy petticoats than ever before, and one can afford to buy more expensive ones. The. .subject of lingerie is so fascinat ing that one would discourse thereon forever. The well-bred woman Is dis tinguished by her tastes along these lines, far more than by the gowns she wears. Dressmakers may be responsible Mr thos?. but she picks her own lingerie, and the woman of small means and vulgar tastes Is sure to economize-on that, buy ing cheap things In order to afford elab- (Concluded on Page 31.)
