THE SUNDAY OEEQONIAN, PORTLAND, 'AUGUST
1900.
Her Bathing Salt.
The Summer Girl stands on the beach.
A very dainty sight.
Her bathing suit of navy bluo
"Was made for her, all right.
The graceful roundness of her form
It half hides, half reveals,
And shows you what a peach she is,
From bead to dainty heels.
The Summer Girl stands on the beach
Or -wanders up and down.
Or stretches supine on the sand.
To let her skin zet brown.
But all the time, whate'r she does.
One thins she won't forget;
She mustn't eo Into tne surf.
Or let that cult get wet.
Somervllle Journal.
1UFFY YACHTING WOMEN
Ellen Oaborn "Write From Newport
of Latest Snmmerr Frills of
Fashion's Devotees.
If '
NEWPORT. R, I., Aug. G. "What a
eautyl" exclaimed a visitor to Newport.
The launch -was steamlne slowly past
anchored yacht bright with flashing
jrass and gay -with awnings. On the
icht's upper deck were wicker lounging
uhalrs, upholstered with Eastern silks
id piled with cushions.
"Whoso is she?" asked the visitor.
searching eagerly for the vessel's name.
"Don't know," said the experienoed
mn.
"I'll look her up for you when we go
iishore," he added, hastily, seeing his
juestioner's disappointment. "I've got
iiomcwhere a list of steam yachts run by
10 plutocrats, but this one may nt be
lown on it not big enough."
"'But but she looks an. ocean-goer,'
suggested the visitor.
"Yep, sha'd cro-s :ho Atlantic good and
sy, but she aln t above not above 205
feet long, and she ain't worth more than
100M."
The visitor gasped; she wasn't used to
learlng $103,003 playthings treated as
carcely worth mentioning.
Which shows her Ignorance.
Not only are more steam yachts owned
by Americans than by the citizens of any
ithcr country, but American steam
i-achts exceed all others in cost and lur-
Sirlousness. Of the 50 largest yachts
bwned In Ihc country, Howard Gould's
lagn'.ficent Niagara, valued at J700.0M,
the most expensive In the world; at
least six or seven rank In the $500,000-
tlass. and the very least and smallest
las cost $103,000.
During the Summer cruising season a
lrgo proportion of the 50 come to an-
ihor. for longer or shorter periods, off
sewpert, as well as fleets of smaller.
jut still sumptuous steam and sailing
Sraft, and thus It happens that Newport
lets the yachting fashions.
Strange fashions this Summer they are.
1 She -n ho looks aboard ship for smart
iergo and serviceable flannel will open
icr eyes wide upon a world of painted
liuslln.
Proper Tnchtlng Costumes.
There are at least as many kinds of
achting dress as there are kinds of boats
d of occasions. The costume for the
tboat is not the costume for the sailing
acht, and tho toilet for the sailing yacht
not suitable for the steam yacht, or
ther Is only one among the Infinite
arlety of toilets that this palace among
oats, this floating Summer home, de
ar ds.
The costume for a cruise is not the cos-
mo for a regatta, nor is the costume of
woman who handles her own boat the
odel for a guest unused to the tiller.
fine, it Is only by observing the dress
women like Mrs. Iselln or Mrs. Robert
oelet, owner of the Nahma; or Mrs.
orge Gould or Mrs. Cardera, owner of
e Eleanor; rr Mrs. William Butler
uncan or Miss Helen Brlce, all of whom
practical yachtswomen, that a. correct
ca of tho proprieties of boating dress
ui be obtained.
The costume in which Mrs, Duncan lent
hand in -ailing a 30-footer this morn
g Is a fair example of the best type of
.cnung oxess xor a short spin on a.
nny morning.
It was built of blue and white striped
en. the clever arrangement of tho
rlpes showing off to advantage on the
aln. beautifully hanging skirt, which
as fnlshed with a stitched band, re-
aung the blue or the stripe, a similar
ccoratlon appearing on the sailor collar
d tho deep cuffs of spotted silk.
No more plauant headgear could be
aglned than the trim little yachtintr
if in blue and white, a combination of
lors "which was repeated In stockings
:J low shoes.
On a morning run of tho steam yacht
rage, a few days ago. Mrs. Duncan,
tho guest cf J-s. Cornelius Vander-
"t, wore a toilet which, though intended
Tlctly for water vear, would not have
ggested Ks puijicse to any but the m
'ated. Made of ecru linen. It had embroidered
itlste edging revers, sleeves and the
ant of the cainty skirt. It had a blouse
white spotted muslin and a tie of palo
jo surah, held with a black velvet clip,
aded with steel and turquoise
Surprising: Toilets.
llcts worn on afternoon occasions on
ird ti y of the magnificent steam
chts that are or have been in harbor
ould startle the novice yet more rudel.
ey suggest a racecourse, a garden fete.
Newport picnic anything but sea winds
d giUiS and salt water.
hey are no longer yachting dresses.
t tho most ornate of Summer gowns
wns of the frill'-, light, bright, fluttsr-
g order, gowns broken out In furbelows
J trinkets, bubbling over with lace and
th a".l the rretty, useless fallals that
o seasons ago would have been thought
Ueulous even on shore.
resscs of printed and painted muslin
i softly falling veilings predominate,
th hats trimmed with popples and hy-
angeas and great roses and feathers
de of tulle.
the -tai'or-made girl" Is dead, and
e Summer maiden has suddenly been
s,nrmed.
he rov wears red on shipboard red
s!ln and the ethereal fabric, with
r.ty lace Insertions and frills, makes
e color look effective, never heavy or
mn.
board the Atalanta, George Gould's
yacht, not long ago one lady wore
th eatlre success s firc& cl Acq? el-
IfA 5 H I O NS1
low muslin and a black hat- "Lounging
gracefully in a deck chair near the rail,
she made a pretty picture.
A color that Is much worn on yacht
board, an 3 always effectively, is a pale
shado of gn gree, like sea water under
light clou.ls. A frock of this hue, worn
by Mrs. Gould, Is in the new muslin
poplin. Both btdlec and skirt are closely
tucked and trimmed with broad bands of
cream-colojd Maltese lace, set in as in
sertion. One of Mrs. Gould's guests on a recent
occasion wore a cool-looking cream silk
batiste, embroidered with white marguer
ites, that fell from the waist In daisy
chains. The skirt was edged with three
narrow frills, and the bodice, which also
was embroidered wkh marguerites, had a
yoke of pastel kmc velvet and a black
velvet girdle.
Another noticeable costume was of the
palest sky-blue musMn, patterned with
rosebuds and knots of ribbon. The skirt
was laid in the finest of tucks spreaalng
to the frill, on which were inset dia
mons of Cluny lace, edced with black
velvet ribbon.
Bolero Bodice.
The bolero bodice bore pleats and Inser
tions of lace and a trimming of rows of
black velvet ribbon. The undersleeves
were of cream chiffon over rose chiffon,
and the waistband was of blue, the collar
again being of lace.
On a steam yacht that followed one of
tho recent trials of speed of the 70-foot-ers,
a lady whose Interest was centered
on the fortunes of the Rainbow wore a
bright little cherry and white foulard,
with incrustations of nasturtium leaves
in silk guipure. The bodice was ar
ranged with waved Insertions of black
Valenciennes, while the skirt was tucked
and edged with an applique of the nas
turtium leaves.
Not a whit more nautical In design was
a dress of spotted muslin over blue, with
a black waistband and rosettes of black
velvet baby ribbon Introduced on the bod
ice. The calm, Madonnafaced little lady
who wore this wore also a wide-brimmed
basket straw hat heaped with popples,
corn flowers and poppy-colored ribbons.
She carried a red sunshade.
An elegant dress of wmto veiling was
set In an infinity of small tucks from
the waist nearly to the knees, where it
flowed out in graceful funness. Above
the waist a similar series of tucks formed
a well-fltting corsage.
Contrasting with the studied simplicity
of this toilet was a dress of black trans
parent veiling, around the hem of which
was gathered a deep flounco of rich,
cream-colored Duchesso lace, ornamented
with motifs of turquoise-blue silk and
liberally spangled with small iridescent
particles.
The same style of trimming was ap
plied, bolero fashion, to the bodice, and a
long iash. cf black chiffon was loosciy
knotted at one side,
A dress of pale, lettuce-green foulard
was as odd as any; it was covered with
a fine scroll pattern In black and relieved
with a profusion of white lace trimming
The hat worn with it was of transpar
ent black crinoline, with ostrich feath
ers, drooping over tho wide brim, whlclt
was bent flat to the back of the head.
Plain Dresses Not Worn.
In fact, no woman nowadays will wear
a plain dress, even for sporting uses, un
less compelled to do so. Even for cruis
ing rig, the sea green, pale blue and pals
mouse-colored linen, frocks, with the
striped and stitched serges and tho deli
cate hair-lined flannels, which fashion
prescribes, are as different as can be
imagined from the severe smartness and
simplicity of a few months ago. Prettl
ness Is now the rule, and appropriateness
must take its chances.
By the way, the prettiest garden party
frock I have seen of late was of creamy
white muslin, with a milk-white satin
stripe, flowered with hydrangeas and
foliage. The deep collar was turned over
with a line of fine perpendicular tuck
ing that extended only to the shoulder
blades, where tho material opened loosely
for tho swell of the flgure, and was again
drawn In at the waist with tucking In
Swiss belt style, the lines there being
accentuated with bands of hydrangea
velvet baby ribbon.
The skirt was mounted on pale yellow
silk and had a frou-frou of hydrangea
frilllngs and soft lace at the hem. That
was a typical dress for the fluffy girl of
1900. ELLEN OSBORN.
THEY DEFY DETECTION.
Imitation Jewels Used In Barbaric
Profusion by "Women.
In the lavish display of Jewels affected
by women of fashion there Is a barbaric
magnificence that is impressive whatever
one may think of it from the point of
refinement. Fortunes are Invested in
rings, collars, tiaras, pendants, and every
sort of jeweled ornament that can add
to the splendor of a woman's toilet and
dazzle the beholders. The wearing of con
spicuous gems Is not confined to the ball-
, ,
room or the opera, but everywhere, says
tho New York Press, on the street. In
promiscuous gatherings, by day as well as
by night, the flash and glitter of gems
and precious stones are seen. A few years
ago such display would have been con
sidered the height of vulgarity; today It
passes unchallenged.
But although Jewels of fabulous prices
are worn with reckless profusion, all
the stones that sparkle are not diamonds.
There are many poorer kinsmen of tha
aristocratic gems that have come into
favor along with the rage for display,
and help to augment the gorgeousness
In which their superiors take the lead.
Moreover, the most lordly of precious
stones are Imitated with a cleverness that
has not been approached heretofore, and
even those who are rich enough to own
the real thing do not hesitate to mingle
the pretended article with that which it
seeks to Imitate, '
One Of the things that always has been
Ecru Linen Gown.
considered most difficult to counterfeit Is
the pearl, the only substitute that re
sembled the original enough to deceive
any one but the merest tyro heretofore
being the Roman pearls, which were
beautiful at first, but did not wear
well, owing to the wax In their composi
tion that causes them to -melt from the
heat of the body.
Recently, however, a new process has
been perfected by a French manufacturer
which turns out pseudo pearls of such
quality as to defy detection by any but
exDerts, fish scales and sliver being used
in tne.r composition. So closely do they
r resemble the genuine that they haye been
strung in alternation with wiem without
betraying their secret. Pearls are so high-
I ly prized and so many can be worn wlth-
our overdoing the matter that even those
women who can afford necklaces are fain
to add to their collection a few addi
tional strands at a more moderate price.
These French pearls are not so very
cheap either. A string of them of no
great pretensions costs about 5150. If It
were of real pearls It would cost at least
10 times that amount, however. In a
great many cases the pearl eardrops that
my lady wears are these clever Imi
tations. If the stone has been pierced
for the setting one may be pretty sure
that It is the counterfeit, for the real
pearl Is seldom pierced, the aim being to
preserve It Intact and to show that it
Is BO.
Imported Rhinestones.
The same New York firm that imports
these remarkable French pearls brings
over rhinestones of great brilliancy and
beauty which easily may be mistaken for
diamonds. They are used extensively for
belt buckles and other "clasps, for
brooches, for combs, for the little plus
for catching up stray locks at the back
of the hair, and even for rings. A popu
lar fancy Is to mix imitation and real
stones, for example, a well counterfeited
pearl with real diamonds or pseudo dia
monds and real pearls.
Thfs Is only carrying to the extreme
the tendency to enrich an already pro
fuse decoration of expensive ornaments
by deftly arranging among them orna
ments of a less costly character that will
not suffer by contrast with the precious
stones and will add to the richness of the
effect. The whole front of a rich even
ing ji?own may be emblazoned in this
way without giving a hint of the econ
omy practiced.
Among the recent importations by the
most prominent New York dealer in semi
precious and high-grade imitations of real
gems are some magnificent dog collars,
consisting of six or more strings of medium-sized
pearls with clasps of brilliant
stones set In silver or platinum, the whole
making a rich and effective collaret, cost
ing from ?100 to 300, whereas NIf it were
what it seems to be it would cost from
$15,000 to $20,000. The pendants to be
worn on a small gold chain, wfilch are
much approved by fashion, are Imitated
skilfully, even to the pear-shaped pearl
of conspicuous size which Is seen In many
of them.
New Belt Bnclzles.
Some new belt buckles are extremely
beautiful, having a morning glory or some
other flower design In natural colors in
closed in a circlet of "diamonds." These
buckles cost from $25 up. and are war
ranted to keep their brilliancy and color
indefinitely. Similar designs are shown In
slides for neck velvet or ribbon.
Large hearts composed of small imita
tion diamonds are popular and can be
bought for as little as $25 or as much as
$150. Scintillating butterflies can be "had
for about the same price. Emeralds can
be Imitated excellently, but opals, with
their elusive lights, have baffled the most
cunning counterfeiters of gems.
Turquoises are creeping into fashion
again, both in combination with other
jewels, and by themselves In strings for
the neck and similar uses. Brooches con
sisting of fine, small miniatures painted
on mother of pearl and set In Imitation
diamonds are finding their way from
Paris, where they are much worn.
EXERCISE FOR "WOMEN.
Benefits to Be Derived by Practice of
Physical Culture.
All women cannot have perfect feat
ures. All women can and should have
perfect forms. Physical exercise, taken
judiciously the right amount at the right
time will work miracles with the "fe
male form divine." Ten times out of a
dozen the female form is anything but
"divine." This Is the fault of parents,
environment, laziness, overeating, tight
lacing and many other things.
Men all the world over prefer beautv of
form to any other attraction or charm
In women. For this preference they ex
hibit excellent philosophy as well as ex
cellent taste. For a woman with a beau
tiful form Is also a woman with a beau
tiful temper and beautiful health. And
the possession of the two, says a writer
in the New York Herald, means perfect
happiness to any mortal man.
Some women fear that physical culture
spoils the round symmetry ef the form.
This is an absolutely erroneoous idea.
On the contrary, it gives to the body
strength, grace and exquisite beauty,
rounding out angles and accentuating
curves.
The first Important rule for women who
take up physical culture not as a fad,
"but as an aid to health and beauty Is
moderation. Tho great trouble with the
sex is that it is apt to overdo along this
line of work, as along many others which
have but recently opened up to It The
result is always disastrous.
Not Training as Fighters.
"Women must bear in mind that they
are not training as prizefighters; they are
striving" to get their bodies Into gcod
physical condition. Their efforts are for
health, strength, suppleness; a body sym
metrically beautiful and free from all su
perfluous flesh; a mind alert, tranquil and
not easily ruffled. These alone are the
objects of physical culture.
Walking Is a superb exercise. There Is
no other that can equal It for all-around
good results. But In order to develop
symmetrical beauty of limb, arm and
muscle other exercises must be added
to it
The best thing for a woman anxious
to try physical culture is to take a few
lessons from a thoroughly competent
teacher, as It is almost Impossible to ac
curately describe the different exercises
without practical illustration. Then she
can practice them at home.
The best time to exercise Is Just on
stepping out of bed in the morning. Be
sure to have plenty of fresh air when
exercising; otherwise you do yourself
more harm than good. Never exercise to
the point of fatigue. Continue each exer
cise until the muscles used in that par
ticular exercise are slightly fatigued.
Then desist and try the next Be sure
and adopt a system of exercise that will
equally develop the upper and lower parts
of the body. Do not develop legs and
muscles to the detriment of chest and
waist; always remember that symmetry Is
beauty.
A woman of weakly or sickly constitu
tion should not at first attempt the very
vigorous movements, but as she gains in
strength she may successfully adopt them.
Gymnastics and athletics develop mind as
well as body. They bring the motor
nerves Into play, and thus accelerate tho
brain's activity.
Rosy-Cheeked "Women.
Good health also means success In life.
Every one likes the wholesome, rosy
cheeked woman; she is invariably good
tempered and charming. Some philo
sophical writer says there is no such
thing as a red-cheeked criminal. He
might have added that there is no such
thing as a rosy-cheeked shrew.
Some women imagine that exercise, es
pecially the different gymnastic exercises,
tend to increase the size of the waist.
That this Is not so is amply proved by
the fact that all strong, active, athletic
men have proverbially small waists In
comparison to their size and chest uo
velopment On the contrary, persons who
leda sedentary lives always commence t&
put on fat at the waist line.
Tight lacing really increases the size of
woman's waist for lacing weakens the
waist muscles, renders them flaccid and
inactive, so that when the corset pres
sure"" is removed they fall about and
spread, and the result Is a large Increase
in the natural waist measurement.
SUNBURN AND FRECKLES.
Advice tor Persons to "Whom Either
Is Objectionable.
Sunburn and freckles, says the Youth's
Companion, are caused by the action of
the sun's rays, but why one person tans
while another freckles Is not easy of ex
planation. Both affections are said to be
caused chiefly by the chemical or utlra-
' hMsmWww 11 WWW "...----
V v niii!l!liliilllW
NOVEL YACHTING GOWN.
violet rays, but in the case of sun
burn it Is probable that the heat also
has soma effect. The tan may come
gradual, without any burn, after a suc
cession of slight and brief exposures to
the sun, or to high winds for wind will
tan as well as sunshine. Usually, how
ever, the city dweller gets well burned
during the first few days of his vacation
In tho country or on the water.
In severe cases the skin Is red, slightly
swollen and the seat of a sharp, burn
ing sensation; if the exposure has been
prolonged, or the glare of the sun very
Intense, it may be even blistered. After
a few days the soreness and heat sub
sides and the red color gradually turns to
brown.
If the burn Is pretty severe, , cooling
lotions, such as alcohol and water, di
luted cologne water, a solution of bicar
bonate of soda, or lead water may be
applied, or the skin may be smeared with
cold cream, camphor ice, zinc ointment
or a mixture of lime water and oil. Some
such application as this, the sufferer
being careful to keep out of the sun for
a day or two, will usually suffice. If
blisters form, they should be pricked with
a clean needle at the most dependent part
and when the water has drained away
they should be covered with a cloth
spread with one of the greasy applica
tions just mentioned.
Freckles occur usually on persons of a
sandy complexion, especially those with
red hair. They are not common in very
young children, under 6 or 8 years of
age, or in persons of middle or advanced
life. They usually come for the first
time In Summer, and are less marked, or
even disappear In Winter. Persons who
freckle do not tan as a rule.
Freckles, like sunburn, may be pre
vented by tho wearing of a veil, prefer
ably red or brown. Medical books some
times speak of removing freckles by elec
tricity or by touching each" one with a
drop of acid orf a glass rod, but such
severe remedies are worse than the dis
ease. The spots will fade out more 01
less completely In the Winter and will
disappear wholly in time. In any case
they are not partlcularly'dlsfiguring.
ESiriRE GOWNS FOR AUTUMN.
Short-Walsted Evening Frocks Now
In Parisian "Vogue.
Conspicuous among the Autumn mod
els will be the empire gown. The little
short-walsted Josephine frock promises to
bo all the fashion this Fall. Already It Is
the vogue In Paris for evening gowns.
Tho softest and prettiest of the empire
dresses are of lace, flowing over a petti
coat of chiffon, rnd made with a bolero
of lace and jewels.
But In the Fall velvet empire dresses
will be worn. And It will not only be
empire gowns, but empire coats which
the women of fashion will wear. Long
coats will be worn and invariably they
wlll be empire In effect, with a wide
sweep at the bottom.. Silk coats will be
the rage.
The coming back into fashion just now
of the empire gown illustrates, says the
New York Journal, the modern woman's
love of change. For a year or more she
has been struggling with all her might
and main to lengthen her waist line.
Unless she could so adjust her skirt and
belt that her waist would appear from
two to three good inches longer In the
front than the back she was not con
sidered a success from the fashion point
of view. The long waist effect was es
sential. Now the equally -esajsgeraied
(short waist Is coming in and fickle woman
is sure to welcome it with smiles of
approval.
1 It is not that the average woman is
1 foolish enough to think she will look a
picture In the empire gown, but merely
J the fact that it is something different
j from what she has been wearing which
j makes It welcome.
RECEIVED BY THE EMPRESS.
"Women ol the Pel In Legations Once
Visited China's Rnler.
Ladles belonging to the diplomatic corps
at Pekin saw the Empress of China but
once, And that was so short a time ago
J as March 5 last On that day they paid
her a memrrable visit, which, in the
light-of recent events, it Is Interesting
to recall. A writer in a French paper
tells about it.
It appears that the ladles of the various
Legations had long eyed the walls of the
sacred garden without ever seeing so
much as the tip of Her Majesty's nose.
Finally they sent in a petition begging
as a special favor that the Empress would
receive them.
At length a tardy reply pf consent was
received,1 and the ladies, set, off, -accom-
- t. f
'. '- v
I1
- -"- -
' y V T
i
panled by an Interpreter, each in a green
chair sent from the court, carried by six
men and escorted by members of the
Tsung 11 Yamun. They passed the mys
terious walls, and exchanged the green
chairs for red ones. The latter were ex
changed further on for an electric train,
which conducted tho party throuarh the
vast garden of lakes and bronze mon
sters to a waiting-room.
Across a court the Empress was discov
ered seated on a throne, with the Em
peror beside her. Lady Macdonald, wife
of the British Minister, as the doyen,
made a speech of flowery compliments,
after which the ladies mounted In file
tho steps of the throne. They touched
tho extended fingers of the Emperor, and
each received from the Empress a hand
I grasp", and a souvenir ring set with a
splendid pearl.
Darning Shows Character.
"I love a beautifully worked darn," said
a good housekeeper to a reporter of the
Buffalo Enquirer. "It Implies so 'much.
If T cp. tnhlo Hnon 4-Viof To? hoan .,
I fully mended, I.say to myself, 'That wo
man Is an excellent housemistress,' and
a girl whose stockings are neatly darned
by herself Is a girl after my own. heart.
I tell my sons to And out If a girl darns
her stockings before asking her to marry.
I know one young woman who sews up
her stockings with black thread, and an-
i other who wears her stockings until they
I are useless and then gives them away. I
hope neither of those girls will become
j my daughter-in-law. A neat stocking, I
. say to my boys, Is far more attractive
I than a perfectly new articles for it shows
the character of its owner.
"Some old-fashioned writer of moral
tales tells how a young man falls In love
with a girl because of a dear little darn
In the toe of her stocking, her slipper hav
ing been stuck in the mud, while her far
more beautiful sister revolts him by be
traying inadvertently a hole In the heel
of her silken hose. I dare say the men
in those old stories who bestow their af
fections with so much discrimination
seem like absurd prigs to the girl of the
period; but, after all. It Is the homely
virtues that wear the best, and a man
might do worse than choose a wife on ac
count of her housewifely merits."
Evolution of Children's Clothes.
The Hebrew child in the age of the
captivity in Egypt wore only caps. The
Spartan boy wore a little coat, as he
dragged his rude wagon at play, and
other Grecian lads wore simple slips,
much like their elders. Then, during tho
long Interval that elapsed customs
changed, and In the Middle Ages far
more care was devoted to the clothing
of little girls and boys.
There was a constant approach from
that time on to the garb of the grown
folks, until, with the adoption of the Roc-
oco style, tho boy was as elaborately
i dressed as his father, In wig and silks
j and Kitins. The little girl of today is a
. very elaborately clothed Individual, and
I shows what a lonir Hten sho hns rxHiinfl
from her little Israelltish cousin in the
distant past.
LIFE'S GARLANDS.
Be pure thy thoucht.
Let. eery aim be notle;
Of true affection clve
And thou'lt recele.
Have conscience clear.
That mirrors naught Ignoble;
These flow'rs. eternal.
Virtues, sarjands weave.
Arthur ,D. . ilaahaU.
11 WOMAN .T
The Twins.
WTiat's the difference a-twlxt 'rat
Ain't none at all I can see.
One of 'em's Jps same at t'other.
An 'tolher'a th other, to me. ,
Like as th breath o two rosebuds.
Same as two strokes of a bell.
An' th" ain't nay way In their voices
Or their eyes or their llsgsrs to tell.
"What's th' difference a-twlxt 'em!
Ain't none whatevor. there ican.
Smiles Jes like two rays o sunlight.
Same as two dewdropa tnelr tears.
Lips like two pairs o red cherries.
Swlngln down from the same stem.
Eyes like two stars, twlnklln. twinklln',
"What's the difference in them?
"What's th difference a-twlxt 'era?
Jes' ain't no difference at all.
Heads bobbin' 'round my ol" arm chair.
Like yellow leaves floating In Fall.
Two pairs o' feet patt'rln 'roua me.
Like raindrops on the grass In a shower.
Could ye tell If I showed ye two roses
Which perfume exhaled from whloh flower?
"What's th difference a-twixt "em?
Th ain't any that ye can te'l.
Janlo could jes well ba Mamie.
An' Mamie be Janlo as well.
Th' Good Lord that made 'em jes hunted
Th kingdom of heaven right through.
Picked out the brllllantest sunbeam
And fashioned It up Into two.
Bi3marck Tribune
WOMAN'S FIELD OF WORK
Opportunities Offering Now Which
Were Not Thought of In the
Not Distant Fast.
If there is one thing more than another
that causes genuine satisfaction among
Women It" lg tho broad .flelds of work
opened up for them in recent years.
There is almost an "embarrassment of
riches" in that respect And, this pleas
ant state of affairs came about with such
bewildering suddenness! Once tho wedge
of innovation inserted, the breach wid
ened qnickly In every direction, and those
whom it concerned were more than ready
to seize the advantages offered.
There was a time in the "West and Mid
dle "West when, aside from "takln' In
washln'," plain sewing and "workln out"
were the two horns of woman's wage
earning dilemma. In business, the milli
ner and the dressmaker headed the list.
These and the boarding-house keeper do
not belong to any era In particular; they
have been always In evidence. Then, as
now, a girl in ever so poverty-stricken a
condition, lost caste by taking service in
the household. She had been simply a
poor girl before, and therefore to be
pitied; now she was a "hired girl," and
to be looked down upon.
Hard of Comprehension.
Just why one who renders personal
service of any kind, except in nursing the
sick. Is supposed to be degraded thereby
is hard to understand. Even alleged fol
lowers of the Christ who humbly laved
the feet of his poor disciples are too often
guilty of this "upplshness."
Women teachers were formerly em
ployed, not so much on .their merits a3
on the Score of economy. A well-educated
"schoolmarm" was content to each
for little more than half as much as a
man would receive for no better work.
Where both demanded the same pay, tho
man would be chosen, mainly on account
of his superior facilities for wielding the
birch, which was supposed to be indis
pensable when pupils were unruly. But
with the gradual encroachment of women
teachers gentler methods prevailed, and
it was demonstrated that women arc pe
culiarly fitted for the vocation. Conse
quently they are today firmly and de
servedly entrenched therein.
It is not many years since a shopgirl
was a novelty In some parts of the coun
try, and one not pleasing to the average
shopper of her own sex. But time has ad
Justed the points of friction, and now one
does not give the matter a thought. It
seem3 perfectly natural to be served by
a smiling and obliging young w oman. w ho
knows our caprices and needs being her
self "to the manner born." Her life Is
not all sunshine; she has much tc try her
soul every working day of her life.
Best Employment.
But. after all. hers Is perhaps the best
of all employment for the average young
woman. Natural tact, intelligence and
the ability to "look pleasant" under try
ing circumstances are the requisite quali
ties. A young girl looking abroad with the
Idea of self-support Is apt to regard clerk
ing as a desirable solution of the prob
lem. She will be surrounded by young
companlons-in-work. whose Interests are
similar, whose lives are on the same
Embroidered With
Marguerites.
plane. There are life, animation and the
continual movement of a human pano
rama, that often affords amusement.
The hours of work are strictly defined,
and this of itself would account for
women preferring shop employment to
secvlce in the kitchen, where there Is no
end and no beginning to working hours.
When employers are Just and courte
ous, as they usually are. and patrons are
considerate, as they often are. the call
ing of the shopgirl is not an unpleasant
one. There are many of these women
whom one pauses to chat with for the
pleasure of seeing their bright faces, as
they talk with cleverness and refinement.
"That girl is above her station; she 1
fitted for something better." said a
friend on leaving the counter of such a
Of Mauve Batist ffffflh
" nfi'1; 'n not agree trlta her. I
(thought that the young woman graced
her station, as she would any other, even
, though It should be higher in the social
scale. Many of this class are well enouarh,
educated to teach, and porhapt wouKl
prefer to do so. But there is not rcom
on the roll for all such aspirants.
Whatever calling a young woman
chooses, there will be therns among the
roses. Stenography, that much-lauded
vocation, has its drawbacks. Among the
many In that field, only a few beoomo
expert enough to command hitch salaries,
and they must toll unremittingly at
brain-tlrins work. They are" seoludml In
offices, and do not always have a pleas
ant environment Some prefor this re
tirement tc- the store, where they are
always on view.
I heard a mother say that she would
not permit her daughters to become
clerks, because It would make their faces
"too 't common.' People would say:
"Where have I seen that face? Oh,. ys
at Ketchum & Co's.'
To me this seemed a mistaken view;
such recollection would not be discredit
able to any good girl earning an honor
able living. For my part. I have often
admired them for their pretty, alert and
graceful ways. And. to tell the plain,
unvarnished truth, the girl behind tho
counter not always compares unfavorably
with the girl before It.
MARY C. BELL.,
WOMEN LAWYERS.
Female Advocate Known LonsT
Prlor to the Chrlstlun Era.
Women lawyers have become familiar
to the public of the United States, but
there are few people who know that
thero were women advocates lony before
the Christian Era. Miss Pettus. a mem
ber of the bar of Washington, recently
delivered an address before the Social
Science Association, in which she gave
some interesting facts connected with
women's relations to the legal profession
In the post.
"Women appeared before the courts of
ancient Rome in some instances." sne
said, "and long before the Christian Era,
Deborah sat as a Judge In Israel. In
Spain and Italy, in the Middle Ages,
women tilled professors chairs In letters
and In law, lecturing In the great uni
versities and receiving doctors degrees
in law."
Of recent progress by women In law.
Miss Pettus quoted Austin Abbott as say
ing: "The earliest dates accessible in
tho field of law are that Iowa University
admitted them In 1S6S. Michigan In li9.
Boston Law- School in 1S72. California In
1STJ. Missouri in 1SS0 and Illinois in 1S70.
and in other states in quick succession,
while in our great Western States tho
law schools from their foundations have,
been open to women students.
"In the Empire state. Cornell led the
way In 18SS. but New York University
followed in 1SC0, and has graduated SO
women with the degree of bachelor of
lawV 10 of whom have taken later thv
master's degree Illinois has the largest
roll of namf-s of women admitted to her
bar. for S7 women lawyers have como
from that state. Even in the more con
servative Southern States the way has
opened; four states admit them to tho
bar and at law schools."
To Keep Ice Water.
A simple method of keeping Ice water
in a common pitcher, when there is no
properly constructed cooler available, I3
as follows:
Cut a piece of cotton batting large
enough to go easily around the pitcher
and to extend above It some two or three
Inches. Put this between two sheets of
heavy wrapping paper cut to the samo
size, and fasten the ends of the wholo
together to form a circle. Now cut a
circular piece of paper and paste It over
one end of the cylinder, thus fashioned:
you will then have a cover that will fit
closely over the pitcher and wholly ex
clude the air from It, thus serving tho
double purpose of keeping the water froai
of Impurity and preventing the ice from
melting.
Covers of this description are very use
ful in a sick room, whfie It In of tha
utmost irrrcrtCTice n1j jjj jqcUa ln
tunded for drink should be kept clcjely
covered.
Stupid Lives of Afghan Women.
How tho women of Afghanistan keep
from going mad through sheer lack of;
something to do Is a mystery. A few of
them can read and write, but they put
their knowledge to no use.. The women
of the upper classes literally do nothing,
except sit all day on the floor amid their
cushions, with folded hands. In Summer
they visit each other and lounge In tho
garden.
A woman who lived for a long time In
Afghanistan knew but two women who
approaehed anywhere near European
standards, and one of these spun silk and
made her own clothes, and the other ac
tually read, wrote and seemed to use her
brain.
Heroic WooSng. '
A young fellow In the town of Debre
zln. Hungary, was paying court to a local
beauty, who approved him from all points
of view- except when she looked at hla
bow legs. She simply would have nothing
to do with a bowlegged fellow.
That didn't phase the young man. Ho
went to a hospital and asked the doctor
to break his legs and reset them The
doctors refused, but he begged and plead
ed, and finally won his point; Tha oper
ation was performed, and after weeks of
suffering the young fellow was dis
charged, an inch taller than before, with
perfectly straight legs. Then tho wedding
took place.
Should Be Clennicil Qulclcly.
To prevent wine stains from marking
the Inside of decanters, fill the bottles at
once after they are drained o v.inf with
warm water, and shake them briskly.
If the dregs are allowed to remain lonsr
it will be harder to clear the glass. Ob
stinate stains in glass bottles, whether due
to wine or anything else, need something
more than water to remove them. Shot
sometimes Is used, but this Is too heavy
for fine glass, which Is better treated
with crushed egg shell or pellets of brown
paper. Whatever Is used must be shaken
up and down-inside the bottle of water,
that the friction may remove the staln3.
In Favor of Kissing.
You aked me my opinion. love.
And for fe.ar that It you're mlsstn?,
I'll tell you In a few short words
Just what I think of klsslnc.
Some say that klsslnff 1 a sin.
But I don't think It true,
For klsslnr has been In the world
Since ever there were two.
The happy winds klai all they meet.
As on viewless wings they fly.
The sunbeam's klsi th mountain tops.
And the mountains klis the sky;
The rivers kiss their flowery banks.
As on their way tbev slide;
The flowers bend their pliant sterna
To kiss the flowing tide.
Tho moonbenns kiss the sleeplns: earth
In the silent, dewey night.
And everything klses something else;
I'm sure. It must be rlsht.
The Ivy kisses from Its birth.
All other cares dismissing.
And all things loveliest on earth
Seem most engaged In kissing-.
As this- by all h seen ami heard.
And known to be most true, love,
'Twere most unnatural and absurd
That I should not kiss you. love.
D'JgravIa Macasln.