Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 29, 1900)
I. ,--?- -" "- --C-" - - 18 THE 'SUNDAY OHEQONIAU, FORTLAX0, 'APRIL' 29, 1900. GEH TO CITY OF IRKUTSK Traveling Accommodations on the Through Fast Express Train Wretched" Hole! Service. IRKUTSK; Siberia, Sept. 6. Three min utes alter I descended from the Siberian express at tho station of Irkutsk yester day, I had met a gentleman from Milwau kee, the first "real" American from home that I hare seen slnco I loft Tlfils. To me in the station there came a gentleman from Irkutsk, whoso wife had been a pas senger on the train, to tell me that some one was looking for me. Incredulous, I followed him and met an American who asked me if my name was Smith. For the moment I thought be was merely guess ing tho name that would be more likely than any other to fit a stranger from th United States, but that was not the case, tor he really was looking for some one of that name. My new acquaintance bad been in Irk utsk exactly one week, bavins corns through directly from Moscow by the ex press train prior to tho one which brought me. He had been nine days on the road, instead of several weeks, and, coming right from home by way of a rapid Journey across Europe, was full of news of things which were old to him but which I had never heard of. Ills own destination, like mine, was Vladlvostock, on the Pacific Ocean, and his only pur pose the pleasure of seeing a newly opened country. When he left Moscow it had been the intention of Mr. Smith, the brother of the United States' Consul there, to follow to Irkutsk just one week later, also on the way to Vladlvostock, and It was expected that they should Join their tforccs for the remainder of the Journey. They had not met, having made all these arrangements through the Consul, and so when the express reached Irkutsk Mr. Miller naturally was at the station to meet Ills expected companion. There was no doubt that Mr. Smith had not come on the train, so that particular plan was Interrupted. Mr. Miller had spent a week in the abominable hotels of tho place, and was impatient to leave. In addition, he had gathered tho neces sary information about the conditions to be met on the way, and was all ready to Etart. All he lacked was a companion to join him for the long, lonesome and diffi cult trip from Lake Baikal to the Pacific Ocean, and his annoyance would be over. Undoubtedly It was a very disappointing eltuation to face. I suggested that it was a pity for two Americans to trail for some 2000 miles across Siberia one week apart, and that if he would wait a week for me we might make the Journey together. I could not, however, start eastward In less than a week, owing to the quantity of work and sightseeing I had to do and the necessity of waiting for the arrival of letters and cablegrams that were not to be expected before that time. Mr. Miller admitted all that, but he reminded me that I had not been enjoying life in an Irkutsk hotel for one week already, and that he felt that he had sufficiently tested the capacity of tho place for pleasure and comfort. Fur thermore, he had his arrangements vir tually completed to continue his Journey this morning, and did not like tho idea of postponing the start. One Strauser Better Than Tito. Another factor that entered into the decision was the difficulty that two strang ers might have In traveling alone over ths long way, when cither one might go with ease in company with a resident of the country. He had been in Russian territory not more than three or four weeks. As long as he was in St. Petersburg and Moscow commlssionaries were at call In the hotels who spoke any language. On the train from Moscow to Irkutsk it would not be possible to go astray or have any difficulties by sticking to the Siberian express, if. Indeed, the steward and some of tho passengers could not epeak English or at least German, jay months of travel from St. Petersburg to the heart of Central Asia and thence by Irkutsk, without a companion, during much of which time It was necessary to use Russian for getting sbout or not get about at all, had served me well, so that the thought of continuing to Vladl vostock in the same manner did not con cern me except for the loncsomeness of tho prospect. But I could understand Mr. Miller's point of view without difficulty when he avowed that he would rather go on with a Russian with whom he could not have a word of conversation than at tempt the Journey as one of two Ameri cans who knew nothing of the country and the conditions to be met, and not much of the language. From Irkutsk eastward the remainder of the Journey is not as simple as it has been to this point. It Is necessary to drive sev eral hundred miles to the headwaters of the Amur River, change there to a river Etcamcr and travel down that crcat cur rent for gome 1500 miles to a connection with tho railway which leads to Vladlvo stock. By river and rail the Journejlng may not be so puzzling, "but that portion of It which comes before. In the long drive across mid-Siberia, is the subject ol concern. To deal with the methods of travel along the "great Siberian trakt" Is sot always simple, and n good many chances will have to be taken. All ol these things we covered in a hasty d.t. cusslon at the railway station, and then separated to meet again at dinner in the evening for an exchange of news, informa tion and plans. My traveling mate of the train, the Hun sarlan Count Bela, and I got our baggage into a cart and secured a dro?hky our selves for the trip to the city. Acquaint ances who had advised me all along the line had warned me In turn against each of the hotels of Irkutsk, and Bela had had exactly the same experience, but Mr. Miller told me that the Dekko, where he was stopping, surely must be the worst In the city, so we went to the other one. Irkutsk Is built upon the east or rlght liand bank of the Angara River, but th railway is on the other side, not crossing over to the town at all. A long bridge fcullt upon pontoons carries the traffic over the liver, and the stream of carts and droshles is constant during the day. Wi paid toll in the middle of the bridge, which was groaning and creaking with the rush of the rapid current against the pontoons, and after a drive of some 20 minutes came to the main street of the city, and to Hotel Russia. An Uncomfortable Hotel. Had It not been for the recent warning v.e fchould have left It at first glance and tried the other, but from the weight of all testimony there seemed no choice, so we demanded rooms. The two which were available were astonishingly uncomfort able I remembered the little log hotel of one story at Omsk, with the porter who In sisted upon scaling my room hermetically every night, its scanty furnishings and Its rough walls and celling. But that room was at least large. The rooms hero wcro Just aa bare and mean in their furnishings:, more unkempt as to cleanliness and so Etna!! that they would hardly rank as a "hall bedroom" in an American hording, house Yet this was a great, three-storied building of masonry in the largest and richest city of Siberia, the capital of the country. There was no opportunity for Choice, so we accepted the inevitable, or dered our baggage Into place and went below. Count Bela and I bad taken a vow that wo would neither eat nor drink until we had "bathed, but Hotel Russia had no fa duties for the latter weakness, which seemed to be considered a nonessential, and we were directed to the public baths, half a mile away, near the river. The baths there offered were little more at tractive than the hotel had been, but it was no time to be critical, and we took to the water. A low houss of logs divided Into hilf a dozen small rooms was the bathing place. Each small room was cut by a partition into two smaller ones, in one of which a great stove of bricks raised tho temperature to on intolerable degree. After much difficulty I convinced the at tendants that I did not want a Russian steam bath, and Induced them to bring a small tin tub, which was the best they could offer as an alternative. Inasmuch as there was no way to ventilate or cool tho room, I was on the verge of suffocation when I finally finished as hastily as pos sible and escaped to the open air. When that was all over and we were taking a luncheon together I was compelled to as sure Count "Bela that be had made a great mistake In coming directly through Siberia on the express without a halt at Tomsk and Krasnolarsk. where he would have- found sufficiently good hotels. It is necessary to revise the opinion I have expressed hitherto, that the hotels in Si beria Improve as one travels eastward. The Tabic Is Tolerable. At dinner in the evening Mr. Miller Joined me and congratulated me generous ly on the culinary department of the hotel. As a matter of fact, that is not by any means bad. The menu Is satisfactory enough in variety and quality when ona has been educated up to the conditions by a protracted period of training. The dining-room is large and light, although It is not well kept, and at one side Is an or chestrion almost as big as the ono at Tomsk, which won my admiration, but it does not play. Apparently some agent has been through Siberia selling orches trions to the hotel-keepers. When we finished a long dinner at Hotel Russia we repaired to the apartment cf Mr. Miller, in Hotel Dekko, two blocks down the street, to discuss the future. His room made me qulto envious. The building Itself la moro pretentious than Is my hotel, but Just now an Inexplicable desire to do something toward repairing or renovating Its walls seems to have come to the proprietor. The result is that all the furniture of the unoccupied rooms is standing in tho halls, which makes the passage somewhat labyrinthine as one wanders about trying to find a given destination. The room occupied by Mr. Miller is large, and it has three wtn. dows, but he assures me that only one of the chairs Is safo for use without break ing down, and that on the matter of dirt he will match it against anything In Irkutsk. Ho Insists that ho envies mc the room I have obtained, because it is small er, and consequently cannot possibly have as much dirt in it. There Is no dining room in the Dekko, but all meals must be served in the rooms of tho guests, and he assures me that the food does not com pare with that which he found at the Russia. I go Into all these details be cause the two hotels named arc tho only ones to bo considered in Irkutsk, and a good many American travelers are likely to patronize them In tho next year or two. It is well to be forewarned. If the Dekko really cleans house this year, and renews the paper on its wails and ceilings. Its rooms will be the better, but the meals at the cafe of the Russia are apt to re main at tho head. Aid of a Siberian. Mr. Miller had been buying Ms contribu tion to the commissary department of the Siberian with whom he intended to make tho long drive. He had found this man through .the kindly offices of a banker, who spoke German, and the arrangement seemed to bo complete. The Siberian had a tarantas, the vehicle by which it la necessary to travel for a week or more, and was willing to take tho American with him on condition that the expenses for horses and fees along the way be divided equally. Preparing for this trying ride, Mr. Miller had bought a great coat of black sheepskin, of the fashion called "shuba." and a generous supply of such provisions as would serve along the road. It was expected that the Siberian with his tarantas would appear at the hotel door early this morning, to begin tho Journey, so after a long talk we separated, with a promise on my part to start. within a week and drive fast, in hope of catching the same river steamer on tho Amur that Mr. Miller would take, or, at least, catching him in Vladlvostock for the trip to and through Japan. Then I went home to the Hotel Russia, made as good a bed as I could out of my overcoat, steamer shawl and the other things that I had with me, and wondered how Ions it would be before this big town would have a real hotel. This morning I wandered up to the Dekko, to see what tlrce Mr. Miller had started. I found him sitting In tho midst of his commissary department, wondering where the Siberian was. We waited pa tiently, but he never turned up, and what has become of him no one seems to know. At any rate, ho has eliminated himself from the calculation, and It Is necessary to plan without him. I lave told my Ameri can neighbor that as far as I am con cerned 1 do not want a Russian compan ion; that as far as I can see I am going alone, , and that I am certainly going alone If he finds some other way to go ahead. I suggest that two Americans ought to get through the country all right, no matter what the difficulties may be, and that at any rate one"oT them Is going to try it on the 12th day of Soptember, which Is to say next week. I am going to buy a tarantas and arrange ray Journey as well as I can with the aid of such frlenii as my letters of Introduction to people in Irkutsk will bring me. The Idea begins to appeal to Mr. Miller, and it looks as it I may be so fortunate as to have a com panion the rest of the way from here to thePaclflc Ocean. Siberia's Picturesque Conqnercrs. Siberia furnishes Its picturesque con querors to history, men who may be named in the list with Cortes and Plzarro, De Soto and De Narvaez. They found no high civilization awaiting them, with jew els and gold as a reward, no land of tropic beauty to delight them, but only .a vast country sweeping down to the Polar Sea. Inhabited by rude and primitive races. Its climate harsh over large portions of tho land and its riches requiring labor to de velop them. The gold of Siberia had not been washed from the rivers and formed into, ornaments ready for the conqueror hand. The furs were rich, but the getting of them meant long Winters in tho far north. As for agriculture. It was far in the future for this country and never thought of as one of the Inducements for conquest. In spite of what seem now to have been small Inducements and tho dif ficulties of tho way. the Ruselan advance across Asia to the Pacific Ocean was the most rapid of all such progresses which history records. If Its extent be calculated and should be memorable for that aa well as for other features. Yermak was the first Russian conqueror who left a great name behind him by his work to tho oast of the Urals, and today he la all but canonized by Russian his torians. Others dispute as to his right to be called great, but there Is no doubt that hV) work was in large measure the influ ence which added Siberia to tho Russian possessions. In a Russian historical 6kctch of the conquest I find a condensed account of the movement, which contains many features of Interest. Tho first ra'ds upon the Yugra. n Finnish tribe living In tho present government of Tobolsk, were mado In the 12th century by traders from Novgorod, who sought their valuable furs. No settlement or permanent conquest was intended, the ransom of fura being the only object of the raids. Muscovite traders from Mofcow, in their turn., some hundreds of years later, made similar Incursions across the Urals and on the way they built huts, cultivated tho land and made the begin ning. of settlement on tho European side of tho mountains. In 1133 the Muscovites sent an armed expedition which conquered lands on tho Obi River and returned wilh many prisoners. From this time the name of a new province is mentioned In early Russian writings, by the name of Ob dorsk, lying far to tho northward along the great rlrer. This expedition estab lished no permanent hold on the regions visited, but It brought back wonderfu. tales of the country and Us people, which became interesting legends in the course of time. Tho next period in the history of Siberia begins when Russia overcamo the Tartar hordes. These Asiatic raiders themselves used to come north from their steppes and lnvodo the country of Yugra, much to the dlstrtwi of the early Siberians. The people of Yugra offered to pay tribute to the Rus sians on condition of being protected from the Tatare, and Ivan the Terrible, having destroyed tho Tatar kingdoms of Astra khan and Kazan, accepted tho offer with alacrity. The Russians were penetrating Into the Urals by this time, by way of tho Kama River from the Volga basin, which they were overrunning, and It seemed a pimple thins to send envoys for tho collec tion of this tribute. The envoys did not liave a plcarant time. Sometimes the Ta tars killed them and after awhile the peo- plo of Yugra began to do tho same, owing to a failure on the part of tho Russian Emperor to do his part of what had been promised. Ho was perfectly willing to ac cept the tribute, but it was quite another thing to protect the vassal ruler from tne Tatars, and he wasted very little thought on that detail. Cossacks Were the Pioneers. Cossacks under Yermak were tho real pioneer conquerors of the land. While the Golden Horde of Tatars was losing Its power the Russian adventurers be gan to gather In the southern borderland steppes, where they formed the peculiar community of the Zaporogian Cossacks which I have described in an earlier letter. Wild horsemen they were, and it was the pleasure of such lawless raiders to fight Tatars or any one else who stood In tho way. When at last Russian settlements were firmly fixed In the Urals. Just to the west of the land of Yugra, tho family of Stroganov, now one of the greatest In Russian nobility, became one of the nota bly rich and powerful ones among the scattered settlers. By a charter dating from tho time of Ivan the Terrible they were authorized to cut forests; colonize waste lands, establish salt works and en gage workmen, and they were granted exemption of taxation for a long period. In exchange for these privileges they were required to defend Russia from the incursions or the wild races beyond the Urals, and at their own expense build forts, maintain troops and buy guns. For three generations the Stroganovs gained great wealth while they were thus de fending their country. The third fur nished tho means for the first real con quest of Siberia. They had been in volved in frequent collisions with the na tives to tho eastward of their lands, and seeing possible wealth on that sldo of the Urals as well, they Induced tho reign ing Tsar to extend their charter and per mit them to begin an offensive Invasion of Asia at their own expense. The Emperor saw the extension of his dominions in prospect without cost to himself, and gave the charter. It was then that Yer mak and his band found their opportunity. Yermak had been a tracker helping to draw boats up the current of the Volga and Kama Rivers. Then he became a genuine Cossack freebooter of the Don, tired of the drudgery of the honest work that was at his hand. His real name was Vasslly, but his distinguished strength and qualities of leadership soon gained him the nickname of Yermak, "tho millstone," by which alone ho is known In history. The bold adventurer led a band of his men to the Volga, where a con siderable traffic even then was carried on, and of which ho knew every Inch, from his life as a tracker. Vessel after vessel was plundered, and tho booty of the river pirates was rich until tho Tsar ordered that they be captured and hanged, and an army was sent to execute tho order. Then Yermak fled with his companions up the stream, and on, by way of the Kama, to tho wild country in the edge of the Urals, where he had passed his boyhood. It was Just then that the Strog anovs had received their charter author izing them to undertake the conquest of Siberia. Yermak was tho right roan for the undertaking, and they, caring noth ing for his past history and tho penalty hanging over him if he were only a pris oner, induced him to head the army of Invasion. His lieutenants were tho plrato leaders who had been his trusted, men in the years past. His army was com posed of 800 men, including a considerable clement of tho Don Cossacks, augmented by a rabble of other fugitives from Justice, border ruffians of half a dozen races. These tho Stroganovs armed and equipped, and the motley army set off for the conquest of Siberia. The First Invasion. It was on New Year's day, 15S0. that Yermak and his men started across tho Ural Mountains Into Siberia. They hart the best equipment of the times, includ ing light cannons, muskets and arquebuses. The Invaders advanced almost without opposition through the forests of the Urals and the Tobol River, but at last the Tatar rulcrc whose power was threatened, be gan to tako alarm and attempted to make a stand. The whole country belonged to Kutchum Khan, an old and blind Tatar chief, the same who in his enrller days had put to death the envoy sent by Ivan to demand tribute. As was to be expected. Yermak was successful in all his battles. His muskets terrified all enemies, and none could withstand them. He proved himself untiring in energy and fertile In strategy, and his movement on Isker, or Slblr. tho Tatar capital, on the banks of the Irtish River, was unchecked by a single disaster. The town of Slblr was taken on October 26, 15SL and the Tatar chief fled southward with the remnant of h!o forces. Tho Russians adopted the name of the town as tho name of the surround ing country, and from that comes the name of the great land of Siberia. After tKfl great victory, Yermak sent his lieutenant back to Russia, with rich YERMAIC, COXaUEnOR OF SIBERIA, FnOM STATUE BY AXTOKOLSKI. xpo'.l of furs to offer to the Tsar the new land of Siberia, Ivan the Terrible prompt ly pardoned the jrreat freebooter all hU former crimes, accepted the gift at his hands and sent officers to assist him, with a body of troops. Yermak" campaigning continued for two years after this. He was uniformly successful In spite of treacher ies, heavy losses, distressing Winters and sickness among his new men. Blind Kutch- urn, tho Tatar, never gave up the 'struggle. I He renewed his fight with troops drawn from the armies of his southern allies in the steppes of Ishlm. Yermak started with SO Cossacks to .meet the old warrior, but, falling to find him, relaxed his vigi lance ono night end in the extreme of ex haustion pitched a camp on the banks of the Irtish and failed to maintain a guard. This was on the night of August 4. 15S4. In tho middle of the night, during a blind ing storm. Kutchum and his men attacked ths sleeping camp. Every Cossack was butchered before he could rise, except one, who escaped to tell the news, and Yermak himself. The conqueror fought valiantly , for his life, but, finding himself overwhelmed, dashed Into tho river, in the hopo of reaching one of the boata The weight of his armor dragged him down to death, and thero in tho river his body was discovered a few days later, to bo identified by Its rich coat of mall and the golden eagle on his breast. Yermak must have been no ordinary nran, though Russian historians may have glor ified him too much and others may have gone to the other extreme In calling him nothing but a swashbuckling highwayman. At any rate, hla name today Is honored all over Siberia, in tho highest and tho humblest homes, and his exploits arc tho subject of numberless songs and legends. Death Stayed the Conquest. Tho death of the first conqueror, who in his campaigns had covered the regions of the Tobol and the Irtish, with many smaller rivers, was a blow to the prog ress of conquest, but the government of Moscow could not afford to let the coun try rest as It was. and troops under new leaders were hurried In to take up the work where he had left it. Gradually the line of blockhouses which served for forts was pushed eastward and southward, al ways following the rivers, which were the only avenues of communication. The Cossacks were the pioneers, year after year, familiar as they were with a life of hardship and with the methods of river travel as well as of fighting. They dragged their boats across the portages from the tributaries of the Obi to those of the Yenisei, and so reached the heart of the country by way of river routes which I have described, hitherto. Tobolsk was founded, some IS miles from tho destroyed capital. Slblr. In 13S7, and In the early part of the next century the Cossack settlements on the Yenisei were begun. Yeniseisk itself dates from about 1E. Ten years later came the news of the discovery of another great river, tho Lena, far to the eastward, on the banks of which lived another strange race, tho Yakutes. The boldest pioneers hurried there, and In 1633 the catch of sables for furs were the wealth that tempted amounted to 2000 skins. The town of Ya kutsk, since then one of tho mere notable exile stations, was established two years later, and the new river, with Its numer ous tributaries, became a gTcat highway of trade. None of these advances was mado without war, but always the Cos racks conquered and their progress was constant and irresistible. It was In this vicinity, around Lake Baikal, that the hardest fighting was met In the resistance offered by tho Buriats, but that was over come as the other .opposition had been, and in 1651 this city or Irkutsk was found ed. In 70 years, then, the Cossack bands had penetrated from the Ural Mountain all tho waj- Into the heart of Siberia, and tho country to this point was added to the possessions of tho Russian crown. ' TRUMBULL WHITE. Fonnd nn Honest "Woman. Recently a man died in Brussels and left nearly his entire fortune to a young woman who did not know him. It seems that the deceased had been eccentric, and set out, like Diogenes, in search of an honest man. Every day he took his seat In on omnibus noar tho conductor, and al ways showed himself very obliging In pass ing up the money of the passenger and returning the change, but to the latter he alway managed to add a franc or half franc Tho passenger would count the change, notice the extra coin and in variably slip It Into his pocket. No one thought of the conductor whom they were thus robbing, apparently. But at last a young woman passed back tho coin, with "Conductor, you have given me a half franc too much." Diogenes was delighted, followed her home, made Inquiries, and made his will In her favor, but he never gave her warning that her half-franc was going to bring her a half minion. nig Gnns, Present and Past. Tho power of the modern gun Is a thing that cannot bo grasped. Tho 100-ton pro jectile strikes with a force equal to 163,00 150-pound men Jumping from a height of one foot. When the 71-ton gun fires a shot 12 miles it is fired at such an angle that the shell goes up to a height of 54S2 feet higher than Mount Blanc Big guns, says Answers, have been long er In use than most people think. In the year 1178 they had guns called "bom bards."' which threw projectiles weighing a quarter of a ton. They were wider at" tho muzzle than In the bore, and wero use for battering buildings. The English used big' guns at the battle of Crecy, and amazed the French, who had never seen such weapons before. QUIET IN THE CHURCHES DR. KELLOGG OX GAMBLING AT 1. M. C. A. MEETIJtQ. Mar Conference of Evangelicals Creatine Interest In Churches of That Denomination. Morning worship at the First Congre gational Church will be conducted as usual. Tho pastor. Rev. Arthur W. Ack erman, will speak on the topic, "Jesus' Ideal of Human Greatness." in the even, lng another of tho practical addresses will be given, the topic being "On Wasteful ness." The music will be as follows: Morning Organ prelude. Hagler; an them, "Cantate Domino," Holden; re sponse. Lord's Prayer; offertory (soprano and contralto duet, tenor solo and quar tet), "As It Began to Dawn," Buck; post lude, Le Maigle. Evening Organ pre lude, "Andante Geazloso," Blessner; an them (soprano solo and quartet), "My Soul Doth Magnify," Blumenscheln; offer tory, tenor solo. "Be Thou Faithful Unto Death." from Mendelssohn's "St. Paul"; postlude, march. Clark. Choir: Mrs. Roso Bloch Bauer, soprano: Mrs. Frank J. Raley. contralto; W. J. Belden. tenor; W. A. Montgomery, baritone; Ralph W. Hoyt, organist. First Baptist. At the First Baptist Church, comer Twelfth and Taylor streets. Alexander Blackburn. D. D., pastor, will preach at 10: A. M. and 7:30 P. M. The morning subject Is: "God's Choice for His People"; and tho evening subject la: "What Shall the Harvest Bel" At noon will bo held Sunday school, under direction of John G. Malone, superintendent.. Tho young people's meeting, under the leadership of Charles Kllbourne, will be held at 6:33 P. M. Music, Professor W. M. Wilder, organist and director; chorus of mal voices: Morning Prelude, andante No. 1. T. Meo Pattison; song, "O Paradise," male chorus; offertory, "Andante Rellg loso," Thayer; solo., Mr. Fortman; post ludlum, "Festival Offertory." Battznann. Evening Preludlum. "Elsa's Song." ("Lohengrin") R. Wagner: song. "The Tide Is Flowing Out," Stebblns, chorus; offertory, "Sons of the Angels." Lange; solo. Mr. Fortman: postludlum, "Marche de Processlone," S. Smith: hymns, new and old by the congregation. First Unitarian. At tho Unitarian Church today. Rev. Alfred W. Martin, of the First Free Church, of Tacoma, will officiate and preach. Subject of the sermon, "The Practical Significance of Religion." Mr. Lee's clas3 will meet arter the morning service, and the young people will Join the Christian Union at the Unlversollst Church, corner of East Eighth and East Couch streets, at 6:30 P. M. Wednesday afternoon, at 2:30 o'clock, Mrs. Eliot will read a paper on "Poetry" before the Women's Auxiliary. Vocal and instru mental music will be given. Tho new reading-rooms at the church are now open to tho public from 1 to 10 P. M. each day, except Sunday, and on that day from 1:30 to 6 P. M. Music: Morning Anthem, "The Dawn of Hope," Kogmann; gloria. Dudley Buck; re sponso. "Hear My Prayer. O Lord." Schilling; offertory. "Oh. for a Closer Walk With God," Faster; "Nunc Dimlt tis," Gilbert. Sunnyslde Methodist Church. At Sunnysldo Methodist Church, the pastor. Dr. Starr, will occupy his pulpit both morning and evening. The subject of tho morning sermon will be "Spiritual Sifting." and that of tho evening 'The All-Seeing Eye.' Sunday school will be held at 10 A. M.; Mr. C. A. Gatzka, super intendent. The Epworth League service at 6:30 P. M. will be led by Mr. H. D. Crockett: subject. "What Is God's Duet" Morning Prelude, "Rest, Spirit, Rest," Amllle; anthem, "Jesus. Refuge of My Soul," McPhail; offertory, "Cavatlna"; solo, Belllne, "Calvary," Rodney. Stan ley A. Starr; postlude, "Bridal Chorus," Co wen. Evening Prelude in A, Schumann: an them. 'The Priceless Pearl," McPhail; offertory, "No. 22." Barnett: postlude, S. Clarke. C. A. Walker, leader; H. D. Crockett, organist. Taylor-Street Methodist Church. Dr. Kellogg will occupy his pulpit Sun day morning and evening. In the morn ing he will preach to children his camera sermon. This sermon was delivered a few years ago, and by request It Is re peated. Tho subject is: "How to Build Character." In tho evening he will speak on a very Important subject, in which the city is interested. Taylor-Street Church Is enjoying a marked degree of prosperity. Last Sunday thero were re ceived into this church 33 new members. This Is the second class received since the beginning of the year, making in all over B0. The church is full of activity. A prayer meeting for young people has been started on Tuesday evenings. This prom ises to fill a very much needed work. The ladles of tho church held a successful en tertainment on Wednesday evening. The Sunday school, under the superintendence of B. Lee Paget, Is prospering and doing excellent work. St. David's. At St. David's Episcopal Church there will bo preaching service morning and evening. Tho theme of the morning serv ice will be "Ono Flock and One Shepherd." In tho evening. "Sheep Going Astray and Sheep Returning" will be the subject. Cumberland Presbyterian. Rev. G. W. Blair will occupy his pulpit at tho First Cumberland Presbyterian Church today as usual. Morning subject, "Tho Necessity of Co-Opcratlon"; evening subject. "The Christian Sabbath." The public is cordially invited. Hassalo Concresntlonnl. Today will be the last of Rev. R. W. Farquhar"s services at the Hassalo Con gregational Church. He has resigned, and will leavo Portland soon. The music and decorations will be appropriate to the oc casion. Centenary Methodist. At tho Centenary Methodist Episcopal Church East Pine and East Ninth streets, L. B. Rockwell, pastor, will preside. Pub lic worship will be held at 10:30 and 7:30. The Children's Hour, at 4 P. M.. will be conducted by Mrs. Rockwell. The Ep worth League will take for Its subject in the evening "What Is God's Due?" First United Evnnjselical. Rev. C. T. Hurd will enter on his duties as regular pastor of tho First United Evangelical Church today, for the new year. At the momlng hour he will preach on "Responsibility." The time of the even ing services has been changed to 5:15 and 7:15 o'clock. Second United Evangelical. Rev. S. J. Lindsay, the new pastor of the Second United Evangelical Church, of Alblna. has arrived, and will begin his work In that church today, when he will preach morning and evening. He came from Nebraska, where he served a church two years. He Joined the Oregon confer ence of tho United Evangelical Church at Hlllsboro, and was assigned to the Al blna church. To his new field Mr. Lind say comes well recommended, and no tne doubts he will make a success ,of his work. Rev. H. A. Deck, the former pastor of the Second United Evangelical Church, was sent to Dallas, and will preach there today, morning and evening. It Is the purpose of Mr. and Mrs. Deck to start East on a wedding tour, to last several weeks. Second Baptist Chnrch. The services at the Second Baptist Church will be of unusual Interest. Rev. L. S. Bowerman, pastor of the First Bap tist Church, of Seattle, will occupy the pulpit both morning and evening. Mr. Bowerman Is an excellent preacher. First Christian. At the First Christian Church today Rev. 1 J. F. Gbormley, paster, who has returned from Ian Francisco, will preach till A. M, and 7:30 P. M. .Special music at both services, under direction of Professor W. F. Werschkul; Mrs. Ella Jones, organist. New members will be received Into the fellowship of the church at both services today. Memorial E-raaaelical. Rev. Robert Pierce, formerly of Boston, Mass., Is in Portland, and will preach at the Memorial Evangelical Church, comer East, Eighteenth and Tlbbetts streets. Sun day, both morning and evening. Rev. Mr. Pierce comes to Portland highly recom mended. He anticipates taking work in the Oregon Conference of the Evangelical Association, which conference will meet in Portland May U. 1300. Y, M. C A. irv. An...f.. .. will w. ,.- dcred at the Y. M. C. A. this afternoon at 3:30 o'clock: March. "City Club'"' (Neu- Dauer;. orcaesira; song, jiuueiujan ioi the Cross" (McGranahan). congregation chestra; song, "Whosoever Will May Come" (Sankey); address, "Gambling." Dr. H. w. Kellogg; sons-, "Behold mm" (Stebblns). Immannel Baptist Chnrch. At Immanuel Baptist Church, corner Second and Meade streets, there will b prcachmg services at 10:45 A. M. and t P. M. Theme of the evening, "The Sab- bo held at 11:45; Junior Young: People's oocieiy raecucK at a r. jo-; ioung rto prayer service. Thursclay evening: Tha new pador of this church, Stanton C. Laphom, will preside. First Unlversallst. At the First TJnlversaltst Church, cor- no tt TYtf fVmri tinA "P.rtt TMerrirri twMfctsS TTs"v J TTrtvf r" mnm. ing service will be held at 11 o'clock; ser- IUW1 tjr XM3V. J. AJ. X1UC, Ui AlUillljr, a slsted In the 'service by the pastor. Bun day school wilt be held at 12:15. At 6:34 tho young people of tae Unitarian Church 4411 ArJr It a unlAn farf aa siiitil&jtt T,K .. JW4H 4 o UIUUU DC. f tkJ, DUUjCVlt A11C Jesus." Sermon by tho pastor at 7:30 P. M. universal Brotherhood. At Universal Brotherhood Hall, 441 Washington street, the subject of the lec ture Sunday at 8 P. M. Is "Tho Labor of Love." "Lotus Group" is the subject at 10:30 A. M. Regular weekly study class will bo held on Tuesday evening. Scientists. Portland Church of Christ (Scientist) In the Auditorium bullcllng will hold services at 11 Ai It and S P. M.; subject. "Adam and Fallen Man." Sunday school will be held at 12 M. TWvinrari'iv. Min. MA. - - - -.... .vuM.a meet ing is held at 8 P. M. Spiritualists. The First SntrttuaHet fVlf.. 41 .- -... ..... uuMvij nil, uitrvi in Artisans' Hall, corner Third and Wash- jujjion sireeis, in conference at 11 A. M. In tho evening, at 7:45. James F. Morton, of Boston, will lecture on "The Purpose of Life." Mr. Morton Is a graduate ot Harvard University, and his lecture will prove of Interest to all thinkers. Home of Truth. At the Homo of Truth. 3G9 Thirteenth street, services will be held Sunday at 11 A. M. and 8 P. M. A demonstration meeting will be given Tuesday at 8 P. M. Shlloh Mission. At Shlloh Mission, corner Second and Jefferson streets, there will be preachlns today by Rev J. H. Allen, superintend ent, at 10:30 A. M. and 7:30 P. M. The iSil ""i ta "Joseph," and evening subject continuation of "Footprints of Angels to Fields of Revelation." ZIon Chnrch. today will be conducted by Rev. Ervlnc Swan, pastor. Mornlns theme. "Our Love WMtnd.rGod-r At 8 P' M' tno ob ject will bo "Lamb of God." St. James EnBIl h Lutheran. There will bo regular service in the morning, at 11 o'clock, and in the even. lng at 7:30. by the Rev. Charles P. Rahn Sunday school at 12:15. The morning subl Ject Is, Christ, the Good Shepherd"; in the evening. "Gideon." CHURCH XOTES. Bishop Dabs "WuTne In Portland. Bishop R. Dubs. D. D.. LL. D.. of the United Evangelical Church, is now tour ing the churches under his Jurisdiction In this state. Next Sunday tho bishop will spend tho day In Portland. In the morn ing" he will preach In tho First United Evangelical Church. East Tenth and East Sherman streets. At 3 in tho afternoon he will address the German Church. East Seventh and East Yamhill streets. In the evening ho will preach in the Second Church, In Upper Alblna. Thus all tho members of the United Evangelical Church will be afforded opportunity of hearing, the distinguished minister. At Memorial Chnrch. Rev. Robert Pierce, who arrived from Boston. Mass., Tuesday evening; will en ter on his duties as supply for the Memo rial Evangelical Church, East Eighteenth and East Tibbetts streets, today. At thlsr church he will preach morning and evening. It is xhis purpose to Join the Oregon Conference, which meets in this, city May 11. and take -work In Oregon. He is a married man. with four children, and has much experience as a minister. Be fore starting for Oregon he was pastor of tho East Boston Evangelical Church. Rev. E. J. Smith, who had been expected to assume charge of Memorial Church, was unable to start for jOregon as soon aa expected. He Is from Indiana, and will arrlvo In Portland next week In time for conference, and Join tho Oregon field. "Westminster's Xevr Pastor. Rev. H. C. Templeton, who has been called to supply tho Westminster Pres byterian Church, East Tenth and East Weldlor street, will arrive from Cali fornia next week, and occupy the pulpit of that church next Sunday, May 6. He takes the place of Rov. T. C. Moffett. who will leave for Colorado to do missionary work, some time tho coming week. Mr. Temploton is a young Oregon man, whose home Is at Brownsville, where his parents live. Ho Is a pulpit speaker of more than ordinary capacity, and the Westminster people arc pleased that the place, of Mr. Moffett will be so well supplied. Bishop Bowmnn Coming?. Bishop Bowman, of the Evangelical As sociation of America, is on his way to Portland, and will preside over tho Ore gon Conference, which will meet In Port land German Church May 11. Several new men are coming from the East to Join the Oregon work. After the conference session. Bishop Bowman will visit the Evangelical churches of tho state. CHURCH DIRECTORY". Baptist. Second Rev. Ray Palmer, pas tor. Preaching at 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday School. 12: Junior, Union. 3:30; Young people, 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:30; Christian culture class. Thursday, 8:30. Calvary Rev.. Ebcn M. Bliss, pastor. Services, 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school, 11:45: B. Y. P. U.. 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:30. Grace (Montavllla) Rev. N. S. Holl croft. pastor. Services, 7:30 P. M.: Sunday school. 10; prayer. Thursday, 8. Park Place (University Park) Rev. N. S. Hollcroft. pastor. Services, 11; Sunday school, 10; Junior meeting. 3. . Immanuel Rev. Stanton C. Lapman. pastor. Preaching. 10:30 and 7;30; Sunday school. 11:15: Young People's meeting. 6:3a Third Sunday school at 10. George E. Jamison, superintendent: preaching at 3 by Rev. S. C. Lapham. of Immanuel Bap tist Church. First Dr. Alexander Blackburn, pastor. Services at. 10:30 A. M., and 7:30 P. M.; Sunday school, 12 M.; Young People's meeting 6:30 P. M. Christian. Rodney-Avenue Rev. A. D. Skaggs, pas tor. Services. 11 and 7:30; Sunday school. 9:45: Junior Y. P. S. C E., 3: Y. P. a C. E., 6:30: prayer. Thursday. 7:30. First Christian Church, corner Park and Columbia streets Rev. J. F. Ghormley, pastor. Sunday school 9:45 A. M.; preach- !n 1! 1 V and T.l T -XC . "V T a rm E.. 6:30 P. M. Strangers made welcome. woooiawn (.iiaarona) Rev. A. O. Bkaggs. pastor. Services. 3 P. M. Christian Science. First Church of Christ (Scientist), JIT Dekum building Services at 11 A. M. and 7:30 P. M. Subject of sermon. "Everlastlngr Punishment." Children's Sunday school. 12: Wednesday meeting. 8 P. M. Portland Church of Christ (Scientist), Auditorium Services. 11 and 8: subject. "Everlasting Punishment." Sunday school, 12; Sunday and Wednesday evening meet ings. 8. Cong-reeatlonallst. German Rev. John Koch, pastor. Serv ices, 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school, 9:30; Y. P. S. C. E., Tuesday, 7:30; prayer. Wednesday, 7:30. Sunnyslde Rev. J. J. Staub. pastor Services. 11 and 7:30; Sunday school. 10; Young People's Society. 6:30; prayer, Thursday, 7:30. Hassalo-Street Rev. R. W. Farquhar. pastor. Services, 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school, 15;' Y. P. S. C. E., 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:30. Mississippi-Avenue Rev. George A. Tag. gart, pastor. Services, 11 and 7:30; Sun day school, 10; Juniors. 3; Y. P. S. C. E., 6:30: prayer. Thursday, 7:30. First Park and Madison streets. Rev. Arthur W. Ackerman, pastor. Services, 10:30 A. M. and 7:30 P. M.; Sunday School, 12:15 P. M.; Y. P. S. C. E.. 6:30 P. M. Episcopal. St. Stephen's Chapel Rev. Thomas Nell Wilson, clergyman In charge. Morning prayer and sermon, 11; evening services, 7:30; Sunday school, 9:45; holy communion, after morning service on first Sunday In the month. Church of the Good Shepherd Services at 11 by Rev. E. T. Simpson. St- David's Church. East Morrison, be tween Twelfth and Thirteenth street. Rev. George B. Van Waters, rector. Holy com munion 7. Sunday School 9:15. morning prayer, holy communion and sermon 11, evening prayer and sermon 7:30 P. M. St. Matthew's Rev. J. W. Weatherdon. clergyman In charge. Holy communion. 8; Sunday School, 9:45: morning service ui evening service. 7:30. St. Marks Rev. J. S. Simpson, rector. Holy communion. 7:30 A. M.: mornlnj prayer and sermon. 11; evening, prayer, 7:30; Sunday school. 10. Trinity Sixth and Oak streets Rev. Dr. A. A. Morrison, rector. Services: Holy communion, 7 A. M.; morning serv ice, sermon and holy communion. 11; Sun day school festival, 3 P. M.; evening serv ice. 8. St. Andrew's Sermon. 3:13, by Dr. Judd. Evangelical. Emanuel (German) Rev. E. D. Horn schuch, pastor. Services. 11 and 7:30; Sunday schoM. 10: prayer. Wednesday, 7:30; Y. P. A., Friday. 7:30. First (German) Rev. F. T. Harder, pas. tor. Services 11 and S: Sunday school, 9:30; Y. P. A., 6:45; prayer meeting. Tues day, 8 P. M.; Wednesday. 7:45 P. M. Memorial Rev. Robert Pierce, pas tor. Sunday services. 11 and 7:30: Sunday school, 10; Y. P. A.. 6:30; Junior Y. P. A., 3; prayer meeting. Wednesday. 7:30; young people's prayer, Thursday, 7:30. Evnneellcal (United). East Yamhill Mission Rev. Peter Bttt ner, pastor. Services. 11 and 7:39; Sunday school 10; K. L. C. E.. 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:30; Junior League, Saturday. 2:30. First United Rev. C. T. Hurd. pastor. Services, It and 7:30; Sunday school, 10, K. L. C. E.. 6:30: prayer. Thursday, 7:30. Second Rev. S. J. Lindsay, pastor. Serv ices. U and 7:30: Sunday school. 10; Key stone League, 6:30; prayer, Wednesday, 7:30. Friends (Qnnkrrs). Friends. East Thirty-fourth and Salmon streets RcV. A. M. Bray, pastor. Serv ices. 10:45 and 7:30: Sunday school. 12; Y. P. S. C. E.. 6:30; prayer, Wednesday, 7:30. Lutheran. German Trinity, Alblna Rev. Theodore Flcckenstehi, pastor. Preaching. 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school. 9:30. Immanuel (Swedish) Kev. John W. Skans. pastor. Preaching at 10:30 and 8. St. Paul's Evangelical (German) Rev. August Krause. pastor. Preaching. 10:30 and 7:30: Sunday school, 9:30; Bible study. Thursday. 7:30. ZIon's (German) Services. 10 and 7:30; Sunday school. 9:30; Christian day school. Monday to Friday. St. James's (English) Rev. Charles S. Rahn. pastor. Services, 11 and 7:30; Sun day school. 12:15. y Methodist Episcopal. Second German Rev. Charles Priesing, pastor. Services, 10:45 and 7:30: Sunday school. 9:30; prayer, Thursday. 7:30. Taylor-Street (First) Rev. H. W. Kel logg, D. D., pastor. Services. 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school. 12:15: Epworth league and prayer meeting. 6:30; Subordi nate League. 5. Centenary Rev. L. E. Rockwell, pastor. Services, 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school. 12: Epworth League, 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:30. Central Rev. W. T. Kerr, pastor. Serv ices. 10:43 and 7:30: Sunday school. 12:15; Epworth League. 6:3); prayer, Thursday. 7:30. Mount Tabor Rev. A. S. Mulligan, pas tor. Services. 11 and 7:30; Epworth League, 6:30; Junior Epworth League. 3; 'prayer, Thursday. 7:30. Sunnyslde Rev. S. A. Starr, pastor. Services, 11 and 7:30; Sunday school, 10; general class. 12:15; Epworth League. 6:30; prayer. Thursday. 7:30. Trinity Rev. A. L. Hawley, pastor. Services. 10:45 and 7:30; Sunday school. 8:10; Epworth League. 6:30; praytr. Thurs day. 7:30. Shlloh Mission Rev. J. H. Allen, su perintendent. Services. 10:30 and 7:30. Presbyterian. Mizpah Rev. W. T. Wardle. pastor. Services. 11 and S: Sunday school. 9:45; Y. P. S. C. E.. 7; Junior Y. P. S. C. E.. 3:30: prayer, Thursday, 8. Third Rev. Robert McLean, pastor. Services. 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school. 12; Boys Brigade. 5:30: young people's meet ing. 6:30; prayer. Thursday, 7:45. Cumberland Rev. G. A. Blair, pastor. Services. 10:30 and 7:30; Sunday school. 12; Junior Y. P. S. C. E-. 3:30: Y. P. S. C. E., 6:30; prayer, Thursday, 7:30. Grand-Avenue (United) Rev. John Hen ry Gibson. D. D.. pastor. Services, 11 and 7:20; Sunday school. 10; Y. P. S. C. E., C"30; prayer. Thursday, 7:43. Calvary Rev. W. S. Gilbert, pastor. Urs. Mann, soprano soloist and director of chorus; Miss Fisher, organist. Serv ices. 11 and 7:30. Rev. Mr. Marcotte, of Astoria, will preach morning and evening. Roman Catholic. St. Mary's Cathedral Most Rev. Arch bishop Christie, pastor. Services, mass and sermon. 6. 8 and 10:30; mass for chil dren. 9; Sunday school, 9:30; vespers and sermon, 7:30; questions answered at even ing senices; week days. mass. 6:30 and 8. Unitarian. First Rev. W. R. Lord, minister; Rev. T. L. Eliot. D. D., minister emeritus, worship, 11: Sunday school and confir mation class, 12:30; Young People's Fra ternity, 7. Universalis t. First Rev. H. II. Hoyt. minister. Serv ices. U and 7:30; Y. P. C. U.. 6:30. Morning" subject. "More Abiding"; evening subject, "Departed Strength." Tickled to Death. Marie Rose, aged 8 years, says the New York Commercial Advertiser, was telling Elsie, aged 7. about the making of the world. "And Adam was the first being created." she announced, solemnly, "sa It was awfully lonely for him. and ona day. when he was asleep, the Lord took a rib out of his side and made a woman out of it so Adam would have a friend to play with him." "And Wasn't Adam s'prised?" asked El sie. "Surprised? Why he was Just tickled to death!" said Mario Rose ecstatically. s Too Mnch. Castleton Willie, do you ever look through the keyhole when I am In the parlor with your sister? Willie No, sir. There are some things that no man can stand! The Smart Set, y i .. tsm&&'34. .aji fV, .r".i)fc-au:,i.fcTsi; -, itjfr k. t. . J, Al m lAW . MX.' .f.. ". k. '., -