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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 8, 1900)
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THE SUNDAY OKEGONIAN. PORTLAND, APJaIL' 8, 1900.
Jlllllk. kl?s.l I
A Lenten Sncrlflce.
The church bell'a sweet and solemn chime.
Rataed our thoughts to heights sublime,
Aa reverently our stejw were bent
Cnto the church for It was Lent.
Apropos of the preacher's text
My wtffe vu pondering, perplexed.
I softly asked, with subtle art.
"What have you given up, dear heart?""
Sho .meekly raised her eyes and smiled
A moment like a trusting child.
"Sly winter bonnet, lore." sold she;
"I need an EaMer one, you see."
Eugenie Stevenson Rain In Chicago Trib
une EASTER'S COMING ADVENT
Anita tie' Cnmpl "Writes From Sonny
Southland of Preparation by
Belles of Xew Orleans.
NEW ORLEANS, La., April 2. From an
artistic standpoint, nothing can be more
" beautiful than Easter Sunday In the
quaint old city of New- Orleans.
Hothouses full of lilies are being;
carefully cultivated for thf occasion, and
In accordance with the long-prevailing
custom, young girls and women .are pre
paring exquisite white toilets that will
be worn for the first time to the services
on Easter Day, and that will make the
churches a symphony In white an Ideal
picture of purity.
Already many white bodices are to be
Been, In the way of dainty shirt waists,
especially in taffeta and peau de sole. The
taste for white and for black, unrelieved
by any other color, is really remarkable
among women who are themselves 'so
lacking in color that is, at least, who lack
the vivid flushing cheeks of Northern
A charming' waist in white fllk is pret
tily embroidered with white silk thread.
It Is open down the front, and has the
top of the opening turned .back In two
small revers. These are finely tucked and
embroidered over the tucking. The back
of the bodice is made In one piece and
has the embroidered design tapered down
toward the waist. The belt of plain silk
Is clasped at the center of the back, under
an antique silver buckle. Between the re
vers at the throat is a loosely plaited
chemisette and stock of white mouseellne
de sole. The 6tock Is trimmed in front
with a wide moussellne bow, offset with a
bit of real lace. The front of the blouse
Js caught together over the plaited vest,
with oblong turquoise pins. Instead of
buttons, the pins being placed horizontally
and quite close together. The sleeves are
long and tight, arid silt up on the out
side of the wrist, to repeat the decoration
of turquoise pins, in catching them to
Tucked "White Waists.
"White waists untrimmed, save for on
Infinitesimal number of tiny tucks, crossed
and recrossed over the body are, "hugely
In favor. They are worn either with
plain stock collars, standing high about
the neck, or have the addition of toft
Liberty silk fichus, drooping down around
the shoulders. The fichus are sometimes
knotted at the bust and left hanging In
two long ends to "below the knees, or the
end9 are caught one at the hollow of each
shoulder and left hanging to about the,
waist une. "iney arc seldom trimmed
with lace, excepting those for evening
New Orleans abounds In French dress
makers and French milliners, and the
correctness In costuming among the ex
clusive set Is understood and Insisted
upon more here, probably, than in any
other city in the United States, not even
barring New York. Vogues are taken di
rect from Paris and the well-dressed wom
en of 'thU city are up to date. Simplicity
Is strictly maintained for street gowns;
fewer trotting klrts are seen here than
In -the North, but the walking costumes,
while they are long, lose nothing in the
trimness of their appearance by that fact.
In spite of bedraggling weather, for no
one knows better than a French wrftnan
the charm of the glimpse of a well-turned
ankle below a neatly :uted skirt.
' The roost popular mode for street bodice
Is the bolero. Many are cut quite short,
terminating even above the bust line.
Some have double "boleros, the upper one
extending down in straps over the lower.
A pretty cloth dress, made in this style
Is in pastel blue cashmere. The bell
shaped skirt has the fullness laid In
stitched plaits all the way around, the
plaits being, of course, narrow at the top
and wide at the bottom. The lining is
made separate and the skirt has a small
The corsage has an extremely short bo
lero, fastened down its full length to the
bust line, with small jet buttons. At
either side of the bolero In front, two tabs,
. cut in one piece with it. reach to the
waist line, where they are buttoned to
the belt. A longer bolero, showing from
under the first one. Is of while panne vel
vet, dotted with small black dots. This
second bolero, which meets down the
front, but is left unfastened, is not mora
than four inches long. It is snug and
trimmed round the edges with 12 rows of
black silk stitching, placed-close' enough
together to form a narrow band. The up
per bolero, strapping over the under one,
is trimmed with stitching In the same
way. Below (he second bolero may be
seen a full waist of white silk, drawn
down tight at the sides and back and
slightly bloused in front. Two long tabs
are arranged at the back of the cloth bo
lero to match those in front. Altogether,
the costume Is both novel and attractive.
"Wide girdles.-laid In close horizontal folds
and extending oyer fully half of the cor
sage, are affected by slender women, with
supple waists. The one that Is shown in
the illustration on this page will give
some idea of the bolero straps. The cos
tume is in the lightest shade of sliver
grey, safln-flnlshed cloth. The sUrt is
long and rippling about the bottom,
smooth over the hips and finished with a
double Avatteau pla.lt down the long) back.
The skirt is built on a lining of taffeta to
match. It is made with the front gore,
and a .hollow, narrow plait is set Into
each seam, at the rides and front. The"
plait Is terminated near the bottom with
an oak leaf, cut out of the same cloth
and appllqued over the edge; considerable
fullness Is allowed in the cutt.ng o: tne
cloth at the bottom of the skirt bensath
this ornamental applique.
The corsage is made to a tight-fitting lin
ing, although the. exterior has a comfort
ably loose appearance. The short, open
bolero, which is cut oft evenly all the way
around, is trimmed at the edges with an
embroidered applique. The girdle Is of
corn-colored taffeta; It Is wrinkled all the
way round the waist, but continues in one
smooth piece up the front, showing like a
vest beneath the open bolero. This upper
part is veiled by a Jabot of cream lace,
falling from a stock of corn-colored taf
feta, covered with wrinkled white mousse
line e sole. An oak leaf of cloth appli
que, placed at either side of the bolero,
in front, is worked over the end of a
strap, crossing the girdle and catching
the cloth bolero down -to the skirt. The
jtwo tabs are Just the width of the hollow
plait on the skirt, ana johow tne same
outline. The sleeves are long and tight,
and are finished at the wrist with an ap
pllque.r The hat accompanying this costume Is
made ot fold after fold of pearl-colored
tulle over the face and white tulle on
top. Directly in front is a large, square
buckle of silver, set with topaz, and the
quills of two large, black spangled feath
ers are caught in under the buckle.
A number of the white dresse being pre
pared for next Sunday are absolutely un
trlmmed. What they lack, though, in elab
orateness -of garniture they more than
atone for in the expenslveness of material
and the amount of work that is lavished
upon them. Millions of tucks, so fine that
they are almost Invisible to the naked eye.
require a minuteness of care, known only
to French lacemakers. Moussellne dc sole
is a favorite fabric and the livings are
Sevoral of the costumes that are In pro
cess of construction have groups of tucks
running horizontally around the bedices.
which are tight behind and slightly bloused
in front. The silk foundations are round
ly low-necked and sleeveless, and the
tucks are arranged In grouiis7 The stocks
are tucked, and from the stock to the
waist, .down the front, the bodices open,
under a flat band of Wnlte moussellne de
sole, tucked at both edges and trimmed
with a double row of frosted silver but
tons, applied in groups of' three. The
skirts arc scant and sheath-like about the
upper part, which Is finished oft with a
group of tucks, the outline being irregu
lar, either In points or scallop's. Circular
flounces are annexed to this shaped edge
and lengthen the dresses into decided
dexnl-tratns. No more aristocratic picture
can be fancied than that made by soma
local belle, attired in white and followed
by her colored maldu.
More tailor-made gowns are seen here
than were worn formerly. Two tailored
frocks, depicted In a sketch, show the
combination ot the French and Engllsti
ideas of all that tailor gowns should be:
they lack the overtrlmmed appearance of
one and the strict severity of the other.
The first is In beige cloth, with a tight lit
tle Jacket, fastened straight down the front
and rounded over the hips. It is stitched
on all the edges with a double row ot tailor
stitching. The front Is open In a small V.
and, turning back from this, is a tiny,
shawl-chaped collar, in wood-colored vel
vet, stitched with whlto silk. Spreading
from under the bottom ot this collar are
two round white-cloth revers, and the V
Is filled in with folds of white and sage
colored taffeta, smoothly crossed In front.
The toque Is a millinery confection, well
worthy of the dress rehearsal It Is under
going for next week. It is In black and
white tulle; the rim is made up entirely of
black tulle over a cloud of white. The
wcv is embroider .ctth -rermloetti
streaks of silver and Jet; at the left slda
are two rosettes, one white and one black,
and springing from these, are a "number
of. long black paradise feathers, waving
down oyer the side. Tne other hat is a
UU 1 fj r lw s4Ts siU VtsJfJl &-ca 49 tts
Jaunty 'affair made of panne velvet, in Uvea through foolishly being strapped into
cashmere design, the predominating colors c&aear t0 smaU tor tbeln- About this
being roso and green. In front It is. tne quilted corsets or "stays" met
twisted Into a knot, with two sharp ends '"i',th iavT: "?ese were ade ta 0"r
rlslng up behind a bouquet of corn flow- i ent qualities, which resulted In a corset
erg j epidemic among both the wealthy and the
-- . -,-.. ,- I rwvir- WhalphonM werA Added la th!i
U.I1B costume is in sane Kreen ciolh. na
skirt Is in tunic form, silt up the left side
and showing on underskirt of the 'same
cloth, several shades lighter. The Jacket
Is open all the way down. It Is made of
dark cloth and has coat collar and re
vers In a lighter shade. It Is worn over a
full vest ot thin white linen, belted with
a wide black satin girdle. The girdle Is
of ribbon, wound several times about the
waist, knotted at the icft side and left
hanging In a single loop and short fringed
end. The Jacket Is lined with white taf
feta, and has white taffeta bell-shaped '
cuffs, protruding slightly from beneath
the edges of, the long, tight sleeves. At
the neck Is a wide, white linen, turned
down collar. The cravat Is a wide ribbon
of double-faced black satin, tied in a short
stock bow. ANITA DE CAMPL
EVOLUTION' OF THE CORSET.
Devices of Feminine Torture of An
cient and Modern Times.
Scientists say that the corset Is the di
rect cause of physical degeneracy of the
women of today;. For S years the medi
cal fraternity have conducted a crusade
against this article of feminine attire. But
the fad has not decreased, and although
the small waist is not so popular as it was,
even undeveloped girls are Incased In cor
sets at an early age. -
Who first conceived the idea of the corset
and who was the first woman to wear one
are mysteries ot the past, but corsets-were
known asfar back as the time of Cleo
patra. Several times, says the New Tork
Herald, have corsets or some article close
ly resembling tbem been found on Egyp
tian mummies. These articles, of course,
do cot resemble the corset of today, but
are more in the, nature ot pliable band
ages. The Romans and Greeks .were great ad
mirers of female loveliness, and tho worn-
en of those nations frequently used' stiff,
bandages. These consisted of a stout piece
ot material, laced tightly around the body,
which thus gave sllmhera to the waslt and
accentuated the curve of the Mn And
bust. But the newly aeveloDed female-i
form was distasteful arid in direct Oppo- may be made attractive, while they need
sltton to the Idea of beauty, nence a royal j not necessitate extra work or monetary
edict forbade the wearing of any article ! outlay:
which would confine the waist. The color scheme should be of white.
Then a new device was adopted by the I green and violet. A worked piece of Hon
daroes of fashion zoras. These were wide J lton lace 'should be laid In the middle of
bands worn outside the tunic laced tightly the table. On this stands a glass bowl
around. the hips and stomach. These we're filled with Easter lilies and tail ferns.
"WIDE GIRDLES UFOX SUPPLE "WAISTS.
artistically embroidered and frequently
elaborately Jeweled. After a time fashion
wearied of the zoras and it became a
custom to prevent the natural expansion
of the chest and bust. Mothers would '
place strong bands around tho cllests ot
their young daughters, which the poo
creatures were compelled to wear night
and day; "When these bands were re
moved the young women possessed that
willowy grace and ease of movement
which the poets termed .the rhythm of j
tho undeveloped figure.
For 12 centuries the evolution of the
corset lagged, for the Greeks and Romans
wcro satisfied with the natural forms ot
their women. It was during the reign of
Louts VI. of France, that the first radical
change was made In the corset. It was
then that the Idea of giving artificial shap:
to women was entertained, a very un-
MlmfnptfiMA nY Infiirlniia arranwmpitt'ftf !
two pieces was adopted one 'reaching
from the bust to the waist, the other
binding the hips and stomach. It was not
until the close of the ltth century, how'
.v.r that A rnrcitt nffgmn tn tha flfnir
I Itself was Introduced by Isabeau Bavlere.
I Tho next style to become popular was
' carved from wood to fit the woman for
whom It was Intended. It was made ot
two pieces Joined together back' and front.
with linen straps. It was considered the
proper thing to look very slender around
the waist, and manv women lost their
Whalebones were added to thli
-- ' --
quilted corset and at the end ot the ltlh
century the King of France appropriated
a large sum ot money In order to secure
the necessary bone.
Some Thins Which It Is Well for
Everybody to Know.
It is said that an Englishman can tell
an American wherever he sees him by
bis use of the fork. In England It Is
considered to be very bad form ever to
transfer the tork from the eft to tlio
right hand. To hold the fork in the Jett
hand and then push the food, up on it,
as though one were building an intrench
ment, is "quite English, you know." To
change the fork to the right hand and
convey the food daintily to tho mouth In
small -morsels Is quite as American,
"and. to my mind." writes "Mile. Eti
quette." in the San Francisco Chronicle,
"is far more graceful than the othet
"In eating asparagus, there are those
who confidently assert that It should not
be eaten from the fingers. There are
others who claim It should be eaten in.no
other way. Both' are right.
"Whether or not one eats it from the
fingers depends entirely upon circum
stances. When dining In the privacy of
one's own home, or with people with
whom one is well acquainted, one is priv
ileged to eat it In this fashion. At a din
tier In a hotel or other public room. It
should be taken from a fork. Never us
a knife In removing the tips from the
white stalks, but use a fork for this pnf
pose. In taking it from the flngefs, take
the end of the stalk In the right hand
and eat only the tips.
"When asparagus Is served with
cream sauce, or as a salad, the stalks
should not be chopped Into little pieces,
but should Je placed whole oa a Jong.
-narrow, porcelain platter. The servant
passes It and each truest helDS himself
with the assistance ot asparagus tongs,
.or. falling these, a fork and knife, if
one have' used one's fingers in eating the 1
asparagus, finger bowl la quite a neces
sary adjunct, and the hostess should .tea
,that one is supplied.' To neglect, this
small courtesy Is a breach ot table elt
quette. As for salad, unlike asparagus,
the lettuce should always be eaten In the
fingers. To cub lettuce !s a deadly, sin
equivalent to boiling a peach.
"The well-bred woman always breaks
her bread; Instead of cutting it, or eating
it In huge slices. At the same time she
Is careful not to crumble it la a. slovenly
fashion. The old" way of using the bread
as a sort of barrier against which the
food on the plate was pressed by-the fork
Is happily never seen now. and gravy on
bread is the most delicious thing In the
world and the worst form.
"There Is frequentlyconslderablt doubt
in passing one's plate for a second help
ing, where there Is no servant to perform
the act for one, whether one should leave
the knife and fork on the plate or remove
them. They should be left pn the plate.
Side by side. The reason for this Is ob
vious. Aside from Its being awkward to
hold them while the nlate Is belmr nassed.
bits of food or gravy are liable to drop I
rrom them and soil the tablecloth.
"'Never grasp your wineglass by the
bowl, but hold It by the stem, and never
take wine that you do not wish to drink.
The servant should mention tho wine be
fore pouring It, and if you do not desire
any, you can Indicate this by touching
the rim of'your glass. Tou are .at per
fect liberty tq refuse any dish that you do
not wish to eat."
eastbr stjvdvv dixseiu
-SuKjrestlana for a Very Palatable;
Here, are some details for a good home
Easter dinner, suggested by the New Tork
The menu and table decorations
Four smaller bowls of purple and white
violets are arranged about the center
bowl. The table linen Is white.
Serve a cream soup of green peas for a
first course. -This Is delicious. If pre-
n,r ofn. a fi f .kinj
cream, added Just before serving, makes'
It oven more delicate. With the soup have
dinner rolls and croutons of graham
bread, well buttered and browned In a
For the roast serve shoulder of veal.
with, herb and mushroom stuffing. The
vegetables should be browned notnioe In
paper, cases, creamed Italian chestnuts
and Brussels sprouts, served with drawn'
For the fowl, have broiled
chicken, served on thin strips of buttered
toast. A salad of chicory and chopped
apples Is served with this course. For
glii-?s: n :
A ' (I ' i Nx
IrOf V :
' . yoV GamV
dessert, have meringue a la cress, sur
rounded with sliced fruit With the coffee
serve water wafers and Neufchatel cheese,
with which baa been mlsed chopped nut
meats. 4 dash ot red ptpper.aad a -little
ORB X&C "WASTED.
Alarm of Axierleu Girl at Brltlsa
A Washington glrU says the Post, ot
that city; brings home an Interesting story
ot a dancs'on board the Brltlsa flagship
at Leghorn last Summer. The English
fleet bad gathered there to do honor to
our own great Admiral, and entertaining
went on from morning till night.
The girl was having a charming tete a
tete with a young officer, when the Ad
miral beckoned to him. Thers was a brief
and serious talk between the two, and
then the officer saluted and walked away.
Presently a signal flag fluttered to the
peak, and a moment after she saw offi
cers rush to tho sides of all the ships in
sight. Boats were lowered, crews and
officers sprang in. and rowed like mad to
the flagship. She thought something ter
rible had happened. The young officer
came up and spoke to her. He seemed
agitated, she thought, and he was pale.,.
"What has happened?" she ventured to
"Nothing."" he answered gravely.
"But those boats."- she said, "why are
they putting off from all the .ships?"
"That's in answer to the signal." he an
swered. The American girl was all
"Oh, what does it mean?" she cried.
"The signal tell me please tell me."
The officer looked down at her seriously.
"Why," he answered, "the Admiral or
dered that signal! He felt It necessary.
In the code it means "more men wanted
for tho party," and they're coming at
SIMPLICITY El DRESS.
Russia's Empress Disapproves of
"Women's Elaborate Toilets.
The present Czarina of Russia goes to
extremes in the simplicity of her court
apparel and in this respect forms a great
contrast to the famous Elizabeth Petrow
na, daughter .of Peter the Great. The
latter, while Empress, earned the title
of "Elizabeth the Good," because she.
Cerer approved ot any executions in her
empire. On the other hand, she was
much criticised for her extravagance and
eccentricity in dress. After her death, the
fact became known that' she had 15,000
costly gowns in her wardrobe, none of
which had ever adorned her royal person. -I
Now, when the dress of court is a more
serious matter with the royal and noble
women, Russia has a Czarina who ob
serves the strictest .simplicity In her
gowns, and requires the same from her
guests and attendants. This has caused
endless dissatisfaction. The ultra fash-
Innnhle lfldv must hnr the charrln of I
appearing at court functions in a very
plain toilet, for otherwise scrutinizing eyes
would pick her out as a mark for dis
approval. This extraordinary plainness battles the
Czarina's ndnfirers all the more, because
-It Is a well-known fact that the Czar Is
extremely fond of chic, and has often ex
pressed his admiration for elaborate,
costly toilets for women.
Enehc-nr Stltt Corsets.
Stiff corsets are unknown In France.
Paris corsets are always supple and bend
able, and this accounts for the ease of
French figures, which are never tightened
excepting at the waist, leaving the bust
and hips quite tree. Over here the figure
is usually tightened In too much at the
bust and hips, which gives too straight a
look to the body, and makes It stiff and
uncomfortable, movement being rendered
ungraceful by this stiffness. Let any girl,
try to lace her corsets only at the waist,
and let her select them as soft am! light
as possible, and then see If her figure bo
not as graceful in shape and as elastic as
the most graceful and elastic French fig
ure. No tight, straight-down, even Jaclng will
ever make a pretty figure. If the corset
cannot be made expressly td suit the
figure, then let it only be laced in the mid
dle at the waist. Even then no real
corset should be worn by girls until they
are well In their teens. Remember, the
softer the corset is. the easier It will be.
and the tighter It may be laced at the
waist without feeling uncomfortable. This
Is the only way to mold the figure. It is
said, without injuring the health.
Poeltcts In linaersuirts.
Milady who carries her purse in her
hand must mend her ways. She may no
,.... w -.,,. ,m, v, .t ,
"" " " '
several, and each of thest stowed away
1" the folds or her underskirt, where none
but she may find It. To make it sti'.l more
i dlOcult of access the pocket must be
completely covered by the overskirt.
t II ln't BInS to be a bit pleasant for
womankind to lift up one skirt arid go
rummaging about for her purse In one of
eeveral pockets concealed in the under
sklrt. but fashion has decreed. It. Who'll
dare decline to follow. Parisian plckpock-
I ets and purse-onatcners, ot wntcn gentry
1 Paris expects a horde during the Expo-
sltlon, are. according to a correspondent of
the Chicago Times-Herald, responsible for
- this sudden Innovation.
DRESS MRSABSAX BEFORE CHURCH.
Clever Little "Woman.
A young- wife bought .an, oyeier plaat and set It
out to grow.
Quoth she. " "Twill .pleas my husband, who
does ove oynters sol
And when .the oyster season comes ni go out
And pick a bushel basketful, with not a cent to
Oh. he shall sup on Eaddlerocks. for which he
Or Mlllpond. Bluepolnts, Shrewsburya, or tTen
And he will be so grateful and full ct'joy to
How very economical his little wife can be!""
Paul "West in Life.
WHITE HOUSE MARRIAGES
Approaching "We'ddlnjr of Mabel 31c-
Klnler, Xlcce of the President,
Will Be the Tenth.
Not many girls have had the honor of
being married fa the White House at
Washington, but Mlfs Mabel McKInley,
the beautiful and cultured niece of Presi
dent McKInley. Is to have that privilege
this coming summer. The date has not
been selected, but the man who Is to be
the groom has been, and he Is Hermanus
Baera young medical student now study
ing in Philadelphia. Tho wedding, which
is planned to oe the most brilliant ever
celebrated in the White House, will be the
10th wedding ceremony which has been
performed within the walls of the offi
cial residence ot our Nation's Chief Execu
tive. In 1S11. the White House celebrated its
first wedding, when Mrs. Madtaon gave a
brilliant ceremony to her young relative.
Mls8 Todd, of Philadelphia, who married
Edward B. Jackson, a great-uncle of the
famous "Stonewall" . Jacksan. In 1S20.
I President Monroe's daughter. Maria, mar
rled Samuel L. Gouverneur. at one time
postmaster of New Tork. Commodore and
Mrs. Decatur were the first to congratu
late the bride nnd groom. In ,1S26. Presi
dent Adams' son. John, was married in
the White House to his cousin. Miss
While Jackson was President, two wed
dings took place In the historical old man
sion, the first being that of Miss Mary
Lewis, the daughter of Major Lewts who
was Jackson's companion in arms and an
old friend. She married M. Alphone
Pageot. secretary ot the French legation.
The other marriage in Jackson's time was
that of his niece. Miss Easton. who mar
ried a Mr. Polk, a kinsman ot President
In 1S12. President Tyler's daughter, Eliz
abeth, married William Waller, and tho
wedding reception of President Tyler him
self was held In the "White House, al
though he was- married In Ascension
Church. New. York.
In 1S7 the famous old mansion was the
scene of the marriage of Nellie Grant and
Algernon Sartoris about the only White
House wedding which had an unhappy
ending, remarks tho Iowa State Register,
which has complied these facts concern
ing marriages in the historic building. The
next Fall Colonel Fred Grant was mar
ried to Miss Ida Honore in Chicago, but
the reception was held at the President's
mansion. Four years later Miss Emily
Piatt, a niece of President Hayes, was
married to General' Russell Hastings; and
then. In 1SS6, came the brilliant wedding
of President Cleveland to Miss Frances
Folaom, that being the only time a Presi
dent has ever been married in the White
HEALTH AND BEAUTY.
Both Slay Be Acqnlred by Folloivlna
These Simple Rules.
A few breathing exercises every day,
taken in the open air If possible, says the
Philadelphia Inquirer, will accomplish,
wonders In warding oft disease, particu
larly coldsl Stand erect, with the hands
at the sides of the body, or the hands laid
loosely on the hips. Expand the cavlty
t of the chest to Its full extent by raising
the ribs, thereby allowing air In abund
ance to stream into the lungs. When at
the height of Inspiration, the greatest ex
pansion of the chest is reached, and it
should be maintained for a moment. Then
i the rlb3 should be allowed to recedo slow-
ly, but completely, so that tho cavity of
the chest becomes narrowed and the air
is expelled. In this way Inspiration and
expiration should alternate regularly. The
Inspiration should take place chiefly
through the nose, with the mouth shut.
A cold plunge can be borne only by tha
robust, and a cold plunge before break
fast should be taken .by none but the
very vigorous. Cold baths should never
be taken when the body is exhausted.
Elderly people should not take a bath be
low 70 deg. Fahrenheit. The best time for
a warm bath is Just before retiring, stnea
it Increases the flow of blood in the skin
and opens the pores. If a woman Is
strong enough, after taking a warm bath
she may turn on the cold water, thus
gradually reducing the temperature of tha
water until It is cold, or she may (follow
the' hot bath with a cold shower bath.
The woman who wants to accomplish
the most and best work possible will find
that one hour's rest at a fixed hour every
afternoon will do far more for her than
stimulants. In order to obtain the great
est good from this hour's rest, she -must
disrobe, as If It were night, and then He
down In a darkened room and sleep for a
half hour or even less. She will arise re
freshed and Invigorated. One whole day
out of 10 spent In absolute rest Is a great
restorer of strength and beauty, as well
BTERYTHIXG GRAND" TO'IIEn.
Intellectuality of the One-AUJectlvo
Type of Female.
"It was in an elevated train the other
afternoon, says the Chicago Times-Herald,
that the "One Adjective" woman inter
ested a handful -of rapid-transit travelers;
and afforded them a little profitabls
amusement. She had accidentally met a
masculine friend, who apparently was in
the city only for a few days, and this
Is part of tho conversation that ensued:
She And do tell me how Sadie Is. Be
fore we both got married she and I used
to bo such chums. And how is little
He Oh, Johnny's a big boy. Ho rldea a
"Tou don't say? Isn't that grand"?
"Yes; we've all got wheels, and wo tako
long trips in the summer."
"So do we. We go way up along tho
north chore, and it's grand sport Just
grand. (Pause.) Have you still got the
"No, we moved Into an apartment In
January. v e have steam heat
'Isn't it grand?"
"And a nice back yard, and an im
mense porch. Sadie says It's an ideal
"I think Its Just grand to live in a
flat. We have so much trouble with our
furnace, although I have a grand girl.
If It wasn't for her I don't think I could
stand it. Are all your rooms light?"
"That's grand. Just grand! Our dining-room
Is as black as your hat. Is
Sadie going to the Paris Exposition?"
"Yes, we all hope to go
'Oh, won't that be Just grand?" And
so on to the end of the chapter.
ELDEST DAL'GIITnR SOLE HEIR.
Carious Custom In the Little Greek
Iilaud of Tel os.
A very strange custom still prevails, as
It has prevailed for centuries, on Telos, a
little island about 10 miles west of Rhodes.
The Island, which is inhabited by Greeks,
is un out-of-the-way place. No steamer
ever anchors there, and only very seldom
does a boat come there from Rhodes.
The result of this Isolation la that tho
islanders live practically the same life as
their ancestors have lived for centuries.
Many curious customs they have, but most
curious Is the one to which Kriedrich, von
Vincenz, the only traveler who has vis
ited the island for a very long time, has
Just drawn attention.
The eldest daughter of a family in Teios
is her parents' sole heir, and she get3
everything, while her brothers and sisters
get nothing. "In the East." says Fried
rich von Vincenz. "marriage is mora an
affair of business than of the heart, and
therefore, as a rule, the rich eldest
daughter Is the only one who gets mar
ried. It she has three or four other sis
ters, they Invariably find their home with
her sooner or later, and work for her as)
servants, while they also share In her
"The bells ring on Sunday from tha
chapel and the monastery: tho priests, tho
bishops and the patriarchs do their best
to wean the people from this objectionablo
custom, and even the Turkish Government
has hinted that it would be well for tha
people to conform moro to the modem
Ideas as regards matrimony and tho be
stowal of property. The people listen pa
tiently to all that Is eald. and the oldest
daughters and their husbands go regu
larly to church, but the old custom etlll
The Modern Maid's Reply.
Come live with me and be my love.
And we will all earth's pleasures prove.
Christopher Marlowe In "The PasslonaU
Shepherd to Ills Love."
I thank you much, kind shepherd, for your cr;
I realize no mortal man can proffer
More than himself that is his best estate.
Tet love, you know, to hardly up to date.
In times like th a woman on the brink
Of matrimony needs to stop and think.
Of course you lore me; that I comprehend.
But to be loved la not the aim. or end
Of modern woman's dreams. Are you content
To let thla love be lust an Incident
In our two lives? To live and work with m
On terms of absolute equality?
And do. you promise not to Interfere
"With my development? If time makes clear
The workings of great Karmah, In the fact
That I am born to lecture or to act,
"Will you assist my plans, or will you ragej
And acold about my going on the stace
Like unenlightened husbands of the past?
Then. too. regarding; children. Oh, the vast
Importance of an understanding- now
Upon that question ere we take the vow
That brings such matters In litigation!
I have my theories of education
Which must be followed. Then I want to know
Where you believe Immortal spirits go
When thla life ends; and also where you stand
Regarding Trusts, and Single Tax on land.
Take time, and well consider each suggestion.
And later we'll decide the marriage question.
I know not What the Shepherd may have said,
I only know the modern maid was led
A willing captive to the church one day.
And that her notoy little children play.
And cry. and grow like others, while the wife
Seems all absorbed In her domestic life.
Its little worries and Its large delights
Have driven out all thoughts of "equal rights."
Let modern women talk, but oh! believe
Love rules her an it ruled her mother Eve.
Ella. Wheeler Wilcox In S. F. Examiner.
McCall'a For May.
McCall's Magazine for May opens with
a beautiful colored plate. Illustrating a
handsome walking costume. Opposite
pago 42 Is another colored plate, illus
trating a-lady's foulard silk costume. Each
month's issue ot McCall's is full of Illus
trations ot patterns of the latest fashion
designs, and the May number is certainly
In line with the high standard of excel
lence set by -preceding Issues.
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