20
THE SUNDAY GKEGONIAliT, PORTLAND. FEBRUARY 11, 1900
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Old and New.
Is the eW novels so we read, the girl swooned
new aad then
Te be resuscitated by her lovers gullant men.
la the sew novel quite as oft most chocking
tMegs befall:
The girl hears much outrageous talk, but
doesn't swoon at all
Chicago Record.
MUSING ON SPRING GOWNS
Erora'PnM to Dimities Is a Far Cry,
Yet Feminity Is Planning lor
Warmer Weather.
NW YORK, Feb 5 Hardly has my
muy bed time to decide whether she is
oonfpfotely satisfied with her new furs,
whether or not they are the pelts above
all ethers most suited to her own partic
ular style of beauty, whether they are the
most chic, the costliest and especially
whether they are the warmest that could
have been obtained, when lo! the shop
windows are full of lawns and dimities
and organdies, and, "What would be the
oeotest thing to buy?" becomes a leading
quootton, despite the fact that the ther
mometer may register se eral degrees be
low aero. Only v omen v ho are exclusive
buyers know the value of these forced
early sales Man fabrics and designs are
exhibited then which are ne er duplicated
later in the season If the gowns are
imported, the fashions may be relied upon,
even at this earlj date, proided one is
positive they hae just arrived, and are
apt q last j ear's showing In a word,
It is 'sot unwise to gh e a little premature
thought to the warm weather wardrobe,
'particularly If one anticipates traveling in
May or June.
A noted characteristic will be the elbow
Bleews and rounded fichu The newest
fashion in fichus is quite full, but short.
It passes around the shoulders and, in
stead of being crossed, or fastened in
front, is caught down with an oal gold
buckle to the hoMow the the shoulder, at
either side, in front The- ends of the
ftctitt, whether they be short or long, are
allowed, jabot-like, to hang loose below
the buckles
White panels, extending from the shoul
der .clear to the hem of tho skirt, will be '
sot UK colored lawn frocks. The panels
are made something like the fronts of je
dS-tmt christening robe, of cluster tucks,
alternating with lace insertion These
may he arranged in points, or straight
hortaontal lines. The Insertion Is usually
whipped in by hand a kind of sewing
that makes pretty fancy work for Idle
days. It is most effective in point ar
rangement and may be made quite elabor
ate by using lace beading instead of
otuptor tucks, and running babj ribbon
through thetbeading.
Bcsrln on It Aovr.
Any one who begins such a front now
can easily have it finished before the end
of spring y working on it merelj at
odd moments. It is cut across the waist
line and tacked to a belt, so that the cor
sage and. skirt are really separate. Noth-ing-could
be In higher i ogae than a deli
cate sink, buff, blue or sea-green gown,
wk a laoe front, made by hand, and
trimmings of knots of black elet rib
bon or light satin ribbon, matching the
color of the gown. The front should De
unimed, to show the bare neck and the
dainty lingerie beneath.
Many- of the summer gowns will hae
a perfect swlri of plaited flounces around
the bottom. Tucks will be used to dis
traction. Box-plaits, stitched half way
down, will meet sedately oer full under-
slalts fhat wllj not reveal themselves i
until .the jffea&er vfalks Much stitched
apojlDattim of Jtny black -velvet ribbon
wuTVahuar &ariV wash dresses decided.y
unwndKitilA, TSteat elaboration of lace
will e uea,vana; thin, light-colored stuffs
wiU"Ve trimmed with rosettes and float
ers of mouesetine de sole in the same
shade, Tho shape of the skirt must depend
on the type of figure it is designed for.
3mm will be very scant, with slender
trams, and others will be emphatically
full, the fullness being laid in close plaits
and stitched smoothly down" about the
upper part. All, however, are to be in
commodtottBly long.
An exquisitely fresh toilet Is made of
tight rose-cetered batiste, in narrow platt
td panels, tapesed almost to nothing at
tho wmtet. Between the "panels are. flat
Hiaces of batiste, checkered with a lattice-work
of lace insertion. At the bot
tom of the skirt are three full plaitedr
flounces of batiste, with a row of narrow
Mook velvet ribbon heading the narrow
horns. The ruffles are wider and mount
higher behind than in front. The top
flounce has a heading made of three row s
of loco heading, threaded with black -velvet
ribbon.
Tho bodice has a deep round yoke and
sleeve tone ail of laoe Insertion, unlined.
Tho remainder of the siee-ves, which areS
thjht. te laid in uastKehed. horizontal
tuoka. At the left of the bust is a huge.
Birr roeette of black mouseeline de sole.
Mid a black mouesellne de sole sash.
Irawn tight around the waist, is clasped
a the back with a souare gold buckle
left hararinc in two long iuu siream
Tho bottom of theyoke and the
ie
Is
of the high, smooth collar tnat
te one with it are finished witn
flat tows of beading jand black rlb-
JTho bottom of the sleeves are tor-
In the same way.
Mbou PinU to Be Worn.
A great doal of pink is to be worn, anali,, xlas walst Ube irL f TOBt . u
tight turquoise-blue with a touch of anem-
ocj, will be & favorite combination.
Many charming frocks will be of figured
organdie, made up with solid-colored or
gandie, matching the ground of the fig
ured fabric This affords an excellent
opportunity for the use of remnants, that
can always be had at rare bargains. For
example, a quaint wide light blue and
white stripe having a tiny rosebud vine
running through the white stripe will
be made up with a bias seam, at the cen
ter of the back and front, so that the
stripes will meet in points In front and
behind. The points are to turn down in
front and- up behind. One point just
touches "the ground in front, and from be
low it the skirt Is cut off all the way
around, carefully following this one par
ticular stripe, in the cutting Then the
skirt Js brought vback to the requisite
length by v adding a circular flounce of '
solid blue organdie that may be covered
with a number of little plaited ruffles.
The yoke and sleeves may be made of the
rose strips, between rows of unlined Val
enciennes lace insertion, and the trim
ming, collar, girdle, etc , 'may be of
white taffeta and pale rose-colored satin.
The plaltlngs on the skirt should be
hemmed with narrow white taffeta rib
bon. The loose fichu, drooping off of tho
shoulders to show the yoke, should be of
blue, edged with a narrow ruffle of -white
lace; IJt should be left open, after the
manner of the fichu described above
But to return from the fanciful fu
ture to the practical present0 tense In
modes Visiting gowns that have been
planned late in the winter are remark
ably elegant, triumphs of the season as
it were. Several are shown in a group
on this page The girl in the background
Is robed in supple gray cloth, dotted with
black chenille. The tight-fitting jacket of
broadtail is double-breasted and crossed
Hair is loosely dressed.
over the front, in two wide scollops, but
toned down with two cut-silver buttons
It extends down over the hips, where It
Is sloped off In Louis XVI form The
collar, which rolls high at the back, be
comingly framing in the face, is of sa
ble The sleeves, excepting at the very
top, are covered with rich gray Arabian
lace The broadtail is repeated in a scant
ruffle, at the bottom of the skirt, and In a
large muff, ruffled at the ends and lined
with gray satin. The hat, which Is very
original, Is made of folds of cerise -v elvet,
stitched to a small high-crowned frame
and trimmed in front with two large
round wings of tulle, streaked with jet
ted wires
Ecrn Embroidery.
The hostess is also gowned In gray, but
of a lighter, softer shade. The suit Is
uniquely trimmed with small, detached
motifs of very deep gray velvet. The
VvXu A? VxVttOfcV
VISITING
motifs
which
of ecru embroidery, under
are passed ehort ribbons of
deep gray velcet The mo
, A erJ'
tifs are set on all aroUhd the bottom
j of the skirt, more of them being used
! in front than behind. On the corsage
they are applied in the stjle of brande
bourgs. The front of the bodice is decol
lete, over a flat gulmpe of ivory-colered
H panne, finely tucked. The collar Is of
panne to match the yoke, and the girdle.
or deep gray velvet, is allowed to dip
is clasped, witn an antique silver buckle
In the foreground is a costume of pastel
t , j '
green cloth, that, at first glance, does
not appreciably show the amount of labor
Hhat has s been expended upon it. The
whole narrow panel down the front and
the circular ruffle that shows beneath the
pointed edges of the simulated tunic
oversklrt are -of cloth, closely covered
with flowers embroidered Jn white silk
floss that is barely tinged with green.
The effect is marvelously lovely. The em
broidery is so smooth that It has the lus
ter of satin, like the work that is done
on Japanese robes of state. The panel
and the points are edged with corded
pipings of wnlte satin,, placed In a close
group between corded pipings of black
velvet. The front panel is crossed at
regular Intervals by the same black and
white pipings, applied in points. The
small coat collar with rounded lapels
and the cuffs' are of black velvet, piped
with white satin, and the front is filled
fn with a white silk stock and shield.
Another single sketch shows an allur
ing new ball costume. It Is made or
spangled black tulle and wide cream-coi-ored
lace, over ivory white satin. In
form It Is princess, fastening invisibly at
the left side. The spangled net is full
length in front, but shortened behind, al
lowing the white lace to fall in a deml
train. In front, the two ends of the
wide lace flounce are crossed lightly over
and ornamented with a large, black vel
vet ribbon rosette. Other rosettes are
placed at the right anff left or the decol
letage, which is draped with cream lace.
A soft, graceful drapery of turquoise blue
panne begins under the rosette at the
shoulder, is looped up and caught with a
fancy buckle to one side of the waist,
from which it falls again, to be caught
In under the double rosette, at the oppo
site side. The sleeves, which leave tho
shoulders bare, are made tight-fitting and
of unlined lace. They are beaded with
a row of pearls, and strands of pearls
form the shoulder-straps.
ANITA DE CAMPL
FASHION JOTTINGS.
Hints of Use to Women Who Would
Be Well Dressed.
NEW YORK, Feb. 5 The most advis
able "best-dress" material for a. middle
aged woman who wishes something that
.wll remain In fashion for at least another
year, is velvet An excellent color Is a
shade of rich maroon, piped with black
marten, in lieu of sable. The bodice should
be opened in a V and worn over a 'collar
and shield of tucked white satin.
Lining Is an item in dressmaking that
has lately caused much debate. Whether
skirts shall be lined or not depends en
tirely upon the weight of the material
used. "Trotting" and walking skirts are
almost invariably unlined, being made of
heavy stuff, usually double-faced goods
Silk skirts are frequently unlined, or lined
with separate drop-skirts; silk dress-skirts
worn with oversklrts are never lined. The
most delightful and serviceable material
for good skirt linings or petticoats Is
adapted from men's tailoring supplies. It
is called satin serge, and is the sort of
stuff that is used In the lining of over
coats. It wears practically forever, and
molds Itself nicely to the figure, being
less crisp than taffeta. A full, annexed
ruffle of taffeta will be found to give
the proper flare to the bottom of the
dress above it. The best tailors are us
ing an inch-wide band of stiffening in the
skirt hems.
An effective extra waist may be made
out of two yards and a hdlf of tiny
striped black and white taffeta, having
wide bands of black satin, woven at regu
lar intervals into the silk, running paral
lel with the fine stripes The back should
be made with a bias seam down the cen
ter, at which the stripes meet in blunt V
shape. The front, which should not be
fulled, should be cut in the same way.
It should be -covered, from above the
V at the bust line, with a smooth yoke of
white satin, veiled with heavy cream lace
The narrowest possible turquoise blue, or
coral-colored baby ribbon, should be
worked in and out-among the meshes of
the lace. Chenille may be used instead of
the velvet ribbon The stock collar should
be of coral or turquoise panne, and a
narro"w girdle of the same may be caught
together behind, with a double metal clasp;
The sleeves' should be long and end In
a point or bell at the knuckles. They may
"be faced either with .panne cr lace over
satin, and turned back from-" the hand If
desired.
Transparent yokes, partially embroidered
with a design, carried out in Jet spangles,
TOILETS.
are serviceable appurtenances, converting
ballroom toJets into dinner and recep
tion gowns. Such jokes -are worn with
stock qollars of pannesatin or4 mirrored
velvet" '" AV de-C
PREVENTS FALI.IAG OF HAIR.
Crude Petroleum Successfully Used
for tlie-k Purpose.
"A. certain head of hair possessed by a
agef begaT1 to. faU ln combfuls every time
j her tresoes were brought well upon the
head, as the present mode demands," says
the Philadelphia Incmlrer? V'With that
Becoming, wavy looseness In the back,
xnls styte was too successful to be lightly
given up, ana nesiae, it nair wiu not pear
combjnfe &lgh, something; is radically
.wronghus reasoned the woman. To get
Tit mer root or the hair and trouble she
followed faithfully, for a fortnight, a treat
ment which is simple and sensible. As
a result the hair not only ceased falling
out, but "became wavy and 'alive as well.
She used crude petroleum jelly, working
it into the scalp, not leaving it outside, to
prove worse than useless."
Here ia the recipe for making the halr
leritllizer strike home, It being promised
-Jthat "lanolin furnishes the best means
or conveying a food or medicine into tne
skth:
Procure then a quantity of lanolin and
mix it with a like quantity of crude petro
leum. Put a little on each finger tip, sit
down comfortably to this fertilizing proc
ess, and If poss ble, before beginning, what
Is to be continued once every day for two
weeks, shampoo the head. .Having hair
and scalp clean, begin with the front hair,
bend the anointed fingers and begin a pa
tient, gentle rubbing, getting directly at
the scalp, touching any part but the roots
of the hair as little as may be.
Folow the same rule for the back, be
ginning with both sides of the crown and
then working up from the base or
"scruff" of the neck. At first it will be
OCH3EE3aa53a
li
ARTISTIC
impossible to prevent the hair looking a
little greasy, but brushing will help this
and for those who object to the brush,
the hair may be well rubbed with a soft,
fine cloth or large silk handkerchief. As
soon as the hair stops coming out, the ap
plication may be discontinued, but a gen
tle massage with all the fingers will be
found necessary to continue the good work.
CHATELAINE BAGS.
Mnny Novelties of Most Attractive
Design Being Worn.
The chatelaine bags show many attrac
tive novelties. The newest Is made of
white monkey sk'n, studded with steel to
form a conventional design and mounted
ln silver with a gray finish. Bags of
gray suede are also the fashion, with the
mounting of gun metal, studded with ame
thjsts, bits of topaz or turquoise. Quaint
looking little bags, made entirely of
crocheted silk, will be carried with many
of the new spring costumes. They are
round in shape, and are just about large
enough to hold a small purse and a hand
kerchief. These bags are sold ln a variety
of colors, and are mounted in many ways,
some ln oxydized silver and others in
gilt with rose finish. Bags of white metal
are also a novelty of the hour.
Beaded bags, such aa our great grand
mothers 'made and wore with prfde, are ex
tremely fashionable. They are worked not
only in .plain, but varl-colored beads, and
pretty conventional floral effects are seen.
For example, a bag of fine steel bead3
will show through it a design of violets
worked In tiny purple beads. The blaok
velvet bags show many beautiful mount
ings. Those In s lver with a cameo In
the center, and those of silver in the new
Homeric designs, are among the most
artistic.
FANCY SLIPPERS.
Tendency to Return to Open Scroll
. Worlc Designs.
A fancy of the season in fancy slippers
Is to match heels and trimmings, in color.
Amongj the trimmings none aret so well
liked as cut steel buckles and elides, al
though those of rhinestones hold their
own, and gilt and oxidized silver, set
with rhinestones, rubles, sapphires, emer
alds and garnets are popular. English
morocco ln lavender, light blue, red and
cuir color and English deerskin in dove
gray are among the new materials em
ployed thla season for semi-dresa slip
pers. There is some tendency to return to the
carved or open work that was in vogue 25
or SO ears ago, but the custom of filling
the open spaces or fretwork with gilt
leather is fortunately not revived A high
cut slipper, carved in a scroll design and
buttoning over the instep, allowing the
pretty silk stocking to show through, Is
one of the newest designs. Carriage boots
ln crushed velvet and quilted satin, ln
shades to match opera cloaks, are
trimmed with fur, and many of them are
finished with a mink's head in the front.
Babies' carriage boots, made with quilted
satin tops and trimmed with swan's down,
are ln vogue in the East.
COUNTY FADS. TRANSPLANTED.
Novel Idea- for a Drawing- or Ball
room Entertainment.
There is no end to the fun in a home
Imitation of a country county fair trans
planted to the city drawing-room or ball
room, with proceeds donated to ch'arlty.
At the real thing there Is red lemonade
for a nickel, fortunes told for a quarter,
popcorn balls for a dime, barber-pole stick
candy for a cent, rings to throw over
canes,, six tosses for a dime; tintypes for
a quarter, sideshows at 10 cents, the art
gallery for a quarter, the general exhib
its free, and the racetracks for 50 cents,
with an admission fee of a quarter for,
each adult, 10 cents for children, and a
quarter for the horses, with extra, fees for
feed; 'All these "explains the New York
World, which originated the idea, are eas
ily caricatured for the house, and the uni
form fee of a penny Or more, to add zest
to the fun, can be put' into the charity
boxes. There are mystery-cardsby which car
bon photographs can be caricatured; and
which, cause endless fun. Fortunes qan be
written, placed ln envelopes, and sold re
gardless of everything but sex. The fat
S?1 Wm i
lady, skeleton man, bearded lady, etc.,
can be exhibited In an alcove; rings can
be tossed for peppermint candy oanes; the
racecourse may be merely one sporting
picture, viewed in secret, one at a time;
the art gallery represented, in illustrated
rebus form.
For instance, "The Man "With the Hoe"
13 represented by a garden hoe, with a
rag tied on the handle, containing the
word "Man"; "The Song of the Iark"
by a song in sheet-music form and a
stuffed lark.
The Ingenuity of the hostess will sup
ply quite a list. The groups can be num
bered and a catalogue of the art gallery
compiled and sold. For the stock show
there are any number of animal forms
in metal and china for sale on the streets
and in the shops and a large collection
can be made with slight trouble. All
these little-creatures must have their own
enclosures.
The domestic exhibits can be made the
refreshments for the evening, while the
fancy work can be presented by vote to
the most popular, handsomest or jolliest
woman present.
To Gloss Collurs and Can's.
There Is a knack about getting the right
kind, of a gloss on linen collars and cuffs,
but the method is easily learned by a
competent laundress. The gloss desired is
I-
BAM GOWN.
like that on new linen, and is produced
by friction with a warm Iron. The ar
ticles to be glossed are starched as much
aa possible, according to the old-fashioned
method, and then dried. A piece of
sperm, parafflne or white wax, the size
of a hazel nut, is generally added to the
starch.
When ready to be Ironed, the linen is
dampened slightly and Ironed in the usual
way with a flat Iron. Then comes the
glazing. A peculiar-looking, heavy fiat
iron, rounded at the bottom, and polished
as bright as a" mirror, is used, and is
pressed firmly upon the linen and rubbed
with much force, thus producing the
gloss. Plenty of friction is the secret of
glossing linen to perfection, but there is
a knack ln knowing how to apply the
friction.
To Restore Stained Garments.
Fresh fruit stains may be removed by
scalding the garment ln boiling water
before washing it. Ink stains usually
succumb to soaking ln fresh milk. The
milk will not injure the most delicate col
ors Saturating an article ln salts of
lemon, lemon juice and salt, and drying
in the sun, will efface most stains, in
cluding Ink and iron rust, from white fab
rics. If the fabric Is colored the acid
will remove the color as well as the
stain. Oxalic acid Is still more powerful
for the same purpose. After using It
wash the article, or the acid will Injure
the fabric
Ammonia will restore color which has
been taken out by acids. When, however,
the acid has been used to remove a
stain, the spot often reappears as well
as the restored color. French chalk is a
specific for grease spots Get the chalk
ln the stone, as the powder frequently 13
adulterated, and scrape it on the spot un
til It Is well covered. Leave the chalk on
until it absorbs the grease. Two or three
applications often are necessary for the
purpose. Brush the chalk off thoroughly
each "time before renewing it, and use
plenty of it
Wedding: Cake's Origin.
Our wedding cake Is the remains of a
custom whereby a Boman bride held in
her left hand three wheat ears and, many
centuries later, an English bride wore a
chaplet of wheat. The bridesmaids threw
grains of corn or small bits of cake upon
the heads of the newly married and the
guests picked up the pieces and ate them.
The wedding cake did pot come into gen
eral use until the last century, and was
then composed of solid blocks, laid to
gether, Iced all over, so that when the
outer crust was broken over the bride's
head, the cakes Inside fell on the floor
and were distributed among the guests.
Bridal favors are of Danish origin, the
true lover's knots having been first de
signed by Danish hearts and deriving Its
designation from the Danish truelofa "1
plight my troth."
Beaver Coming in Again.
Beaver furs have not been worn for a
good many years, but more and more
of them are being seen this winter In
Eastern cities, and they are distinctly
fashionable. One trouble with beaver Is
that, though, it Is a pretty fur. It Is very
warm and heavy for this climate. It seems
to fairly generate heat, and when a
heavy Jacket of it Js once put on, it is
suicidal to change for anything else.
It Is worn as jackets and capes. It la
not a fur that stout women can wear, as
they can the Iamb, which flta the figure
like a kid glove and seems hardly thicker".
Beaver Is pretty for children's clothes as
trimming or edging.
Amulet Fad.
One of the uses of the new fad for
amulets Is to have the medallion fitted
with a brooch pin and hook on the back,
and watlt ,with the kimona, now so
popular In the place of wrappers, tea
gown3 and other- negligeesgarmehts. The
medJBdJlggsusedto plmtbe kimona to
gethar leaving the necklace hanging loose
ly' abouf the neck."
Sensible Footscar.
Foot clothing for men and-women has
never been so sensible nor so comfortable
as it is now made, since the days when
the forefathers trod their native heaths
and forests In bare feet, or their descend
ants wore sandals.
Siring- LotT Swing Low,
Swing letv-swlns low
Now do the Sleep-folk gather.
Queer little people, aa you must kaow.
With ways that amaze-ue. rafrber;
People with raetheds of Taking- away.
Safe te their country ttvay bear us.
Hey, there you balmiea with eyes Mue ergr&TV
Sometimes- the Sleep-people- scare ual
Swing" low swine low
Th4 to a sobs' for ray dearie.
Faith' she Insisted on music, and',
I may sing on UJl I'm weary.
Swing- low awing low5
Here is a fatherly Brownie.
Up cornea to Invite you, invite you to go.
Wrapped ln Sleep's mantle bo downy,
Unto the couitpr where Brownies abound.
Where elfins are playing- above you.
The queerest queer country that ever you found.
Where ait of the Sleep-people love you.
Swing low-swing- low
Better bo sleeping, be sleeping.
The Day-world but wearies. It wearies,
and bo.
Into the Sleep-world go creeping.
Bwtag tow swing low
Sleeptlme and nighttime are nrar us.
The little Sleep-people now flit to and fro;
They come bur to greet us and cheer as.
X moment, a moment and you shall be- there,
With elfins of Siumberland cheery,
Paat the world of unrest and the country of
care.
My little one, little one. cearlo.
Swing low swing low
Byell&s ire creeping, down-creeping.
1 One faint final flutter, one flutter, aad ,
My balrnle Is sleeping. Is sleepteg-.
A. J. Waterhouse in S. F. Bxasateer.
FEMALEFUR1ESRUNAMUCK
Pennsylvania Coal Strikes Disclose
Bnpleasinsr Traits of Emotional
Hungarian Femininity.
Recent strikes in the Pennsylvania coal
regions have revealed a new element the
desperate activity of women ln labor dis
putes. Within the last few weeks there
was an exhibition at Old Ferge, hi the
Keystone state, of what a fierce and furi
ous thing a coal mining strike can become
when women are aggressively active in it.
ft Is one of the results of the great In
flux of Hungarian labor into the anthra
cite valleys during the last few years.
At Old Forge and elsewhere the Hun
garian women were extremely active and
Vindictive in resisting those who bad taken
the places of their husbands and brothers.
The striking miners and laborers general
ly kept out of the way, but their women
folk were constantly upon the alert, and
when the "scabs," as they called the men
who went to work, were on their way to
or from the mines, there was a demonstra
tion by angry, shrieking and gesticulating
women. Morning and evening the work
ing force of miners had to run this gaunt
let of abuse, which was frequently accom
panied by missiles of various kinds.
"I could hold my own against a man any
time," said a veteran- miner who went
through the recent strike at Old Forge te
a correspondent of the New Tbrk Herald,
"but those Hungarian women were more
than my match. They ate garlic every
morning and spat ln our faces. They
threw rotten eggs and red pepper at us
when we came out from work ln the even
ing, and we could not lift a finger agaisst
them because of their sex.
"Oh, didn't I wish that one of them was a
man for five minutes one afternoon. She
hit me on the rim of the hat with an
egg that you could hear a mile away.
The juice of the thine nearly blinded me,
and then she called me a 'scab.' That
was about all the English she could get
off, but it was enough. I was as mad
as could be, but kept my hands off her.
The ganff of women followed us, booting
and hissing, for nearly a mile. The men
were very patient, and the women knew
it and took advantage of them."
WOMAN'S PROGRESS.
Elizabeth Cady Stanton Expatiates
on the Situation.
"To the student of history," wrote Eliza
beth Cady Stanton recently, "a law of
progress Is apparent, steadily running
from century to century, gradually de
veloping the higher possibilities of the race.
The emancipation of woman from, the
bondage of the past has culminated during
the last century In the assertion of her
right to an equal place on this, planet,
claiming the simultaneous creation of man
and woman, with an equal title deed to
Can't Afford It.
She Why don't you dance this danee. Bob 7
He It's the lancera, I can't afford HI
She Whatever do you mean 7
He Why, the last danee. I went te, la the
lancers I had my coat tern te bits, see ewff
pulled off my shirt, and lost two shirt studs
and a sleeve link' Fun.
this green earth and equal dominloa over
every creeping thing thereon, according
1 to the Book of Genesis, claimed by some
to be the earliest record of the race.
"Fifty years ago, like the daughters of
Zelophehad in the ecriprures. woman
brought her case Into court, with her own
judges, advocates and witnesses, and made
a popular appeal for her right to an equal
Inheritance. The goddess of Justice, weigh
ing the claims of man and woman, .said?
'The women are right, so let It be 'Open
sesame!' And gave them the key to the
schools, colleges, trades and professions.
In the face of leaders of church and state
they pushed back bolts and bam, walked
the wards of the hospital, entered the
courts of Justice, expounded te com
mands of God in the pulpit, and ques
tions of government in legislative halls.
- "In vain dM men protest, as thy saw
the power slipplrijr from their hands- vain
were their thunderbolts Of denunciation.
Women began to-fill an equal place, grad-
J ually taking possession of all the vantage
IKis m ttfe woeW of thought anl aco
erWnns into the eMtoeea bv th t
srt. ptteMitr their wy m the trades a-
peanaotwte, beeomhtg the most do" , ,
cators, authowi and actors, and ra l
wwns imo cMnpeoiMR with the most
mftnimreu muHVMHij, scientists ana a
eeapmrs, proving themselves the c -of
man ia every department whra
navo ha4 enial opporttmltiee for dc
saent. "Men and that class of women du
parasites by Olive Sehreiner are a V
less to roll back this Incoming tide of Ir,
teuigence as was Same PartlngtOT
eating Back the Atlantic ocean. It is Pol
loo late for bishops, senators college e
menu, professors and fashionable woiis
te set Units to the achievements an 1 &i
gresetons of 'Sve's daughters. The w1 "
of progress never move backward w
aa s pataway onware ana upward,, ar
m full equality te accorded her eve
where; until the aaaon and civil law!
-MMes and eonsOtations shall alljfe bof
wiw wve ana reverence to the 'motM
of the race.' "
FOR STOUT AITO THIN WOXZST.
Mental Hxerclse Redaces Corpulent
-Regimes fer Spare Females.
A man. nfay, and does, grow weary
the soft contour of a merely pretty foe
but he Is, and will be always, pieasantl
attracted to the bright sparkle of t
face, lit up by a brilliant mind and culd
vated Intelligence that sparkles In H
eyes and melts around the mouth, as the
clover owner talks or listens Intell
exercise is Just as beneficial in rodu
corpulency as Is physical exercise Mi
who use then brains constantly and
lively rarely grow too stout
Women of leisure inclined to. embol
point should Interest themselves in
literature, study, anything, evrythni
tnat tends to Improve and cultivate ti
minds and give brightness and a.ertne
rte both character and expression
course, the woman who is incline I to
too thin must adopt a regimen, the, vel
opposite of the one followed by a?r s
rstoter. Aff a rule thin people ar II
dined to be Irritable, nervous easily wc
ried and annoyed. They take trifles
heart and are frightened at nothing
they want to gain weight and good loop
they should strenuously combat this
nappy disposition, they must not tola
so much about themselves Let thpm
stead, advises the New York Hera i
discussing the Influencing of Intellect!:
alertness on women's physique, take
some interesting pursuit, which w 11 lea
them no time to worry and fret over tl
nee.
"It is a wise adage," continues the Hit
aid, "that tells us to 'laugh and grow fa
There is a great deal of truth in thu
terse- little words. Thin people ought
sleep all they possibly can, and take
abundance of good, rich, nourishing foot)
such aa muk, butter, cheese, eggs, noi!
Ishing meats and gtarchy vegetables
they should be careful not to overtax
digestion, as that uses up flesh quite
much as does violent exercise.
"They should avoid all exciting stir
lams, such as tea and coffee. On
contrary they may drink malt Hquoi
such as beer and porter. The- thin worn!
would better avetdr such meats aa ve
jams ana au tne outers Known as youl
meats,, for they contain numerous
formed tissues, which are assimilated wl
difficulty. The woman who wants to
a handsome, erect carriage, and to we
well, must, by Judicious and varied cxf
ctee, let no set of muscles fall into dl
use."
TAIB OF SBVBSJ SHIRTS.
One Garment More or X,ess DIj
Count WItft "HhbbIc"
She was a very punetlHoua little Soutj
era lady, says the Chicago TIme3-Heral
and he was a big, happy genial Southe
man, with a notorious disregard fir
matters of dress. When he was goll
away, frmo home for a week, his wi
carefully packed bis valise, and tl:
gently, out nrmiy, law down the a am
"Now, John, I have put six clean sili
m your bag, which will be one for ea
L day that you are gone. I want you ta
sure to put on a fresh shirt every mor
tog. Promise me'" John promised hi
and sealed the promise with a kiss
At the appointed time he returned hor
and the dainty housewife began to
pack his satchel, with a view to suppi
ins: the laundry bag. Then she cas
downstairs with a world of perplf
and reproach in her gentle face.
"John," she commanded, ' whera
those siv extra shirts I sent off with yo
I've been through your bag, and there b
one there'" He looked as puzzled aa si
and protested he didn't know where thl
now were, though he had positive iy f
lowed her instructions about putting
a fresh one each day. After a while
too, retired upstairs, and shortly aft
ward his wife heard a whoop of triumj
proceeding from, above.
As she approached the banisters, an
clied face loomed over and a happy vol!
rang out: "I've found em, my dear l'i
found 'em! The whole seven shirts
safe! I've got 'em all on!"
Lessens Women's Labor.
A machine that is intended simply
a humanitarian device, and- will not xoi
wages or throw anybody out of em pic
ment. has recently been introduced! for ti
benefit of the scrubbing women in
navy department at Washington, It 11
wheeled vehicle, with rubber tires.
when operated spreads brushes over
root. It takes two or three women
drive this machine, but it does away
the necessity for them to get down
their knees in order to accomplish tl
scrubbing process.
According to reports, It has been, wl
corned as a boon by the scrubbing wome
particularly as its introduction, unllj
that of most machinery, noes not mee
reduction, ln the previous force of
workers.
Care of Room Plants.
Room plants should, be kept where
will have the full benefit of sunlight
not be exposed to frost Air, heat ai
moisture In duo proportion and under
right circumstances are essential to
life and zrowth of plants. They sho'J
be watered only in the morning of a mil
sunny day and very sparingly ln fr
weather, betas at the same time protect:
from tho chill outdoor air
They should also be kept free from
cayed leaves, the earth at the top
ened occasionally, and some rich 2?pol
added. If these directions ar follow!
tho chances are tersely in favor of
plants remaining in a condition that
give satisfaction to the household.
Sauoe for Gander.
A law was passed recently in Nor
making ft obligatory for girls to show "
tfneatee of nroftcioncy in cooking
ting and sptaninr before being permitt
t Brry. A Philadelphia newspaper wt
or thinks that this statue should be
ptemented by the passage of a aw
oerbMr men inelieibte for matrimony
cannot produce1 certineates of profMen
m buOlmg fires, staying in at mgos
similar desirable accomplishmenta.