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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 11, 1900)
20 THE SUNDAY GKEGONIAliT, PORTLAND. FEBRUARY 11, 1900 i mm kJfJisiW!u -: 7 u D TSf . Jn J 'Pej Old and New. Is the eW novels so we read, the girl swooned new aad then Te be resuscitated by her lovers gullant men. la the sew novel quite as oft most chocking tMegs befall: The girl hears much outrageous talk, but doesn't swoon at all Chicago Record. MUSING ON SPRING GOWNS Erora'PnM to Dimities Is a Far Cry, Yet Feminity Is Planning lor Warmer Weather. NW YORK, Feb 5 Hardly has my muy bed time to decide whether she is oonfpfotely satisfied with her new furs, whether or not they are the pelts above all ethers most suited to her own partic ular style of beauty, whether they are the most chic, the costliest and especially whether they are the warmest that could have been obtained, when lo! the shop windows are full of lawns and dimities and organdies, and, "What would be the oeotest thing to buy?" becomes a leading quootton, despite the fact that the ther mometer may register se eral degrees be low aero. Only v omen v ho are exclusive buyers know the value of these forced early sales Man fabrics and designs are exhibited then which are ne er duplicated later in the season If the gowns are imported, the fashions may be relied upon, even at this earlj date, proided one is positive they hae just arrived, and are apt q last j ear's showing In a word, It is 'sot unwise to gh e a little premature thought to the warm weather wardrobe, 'particularly If one anticipates traveling in May or June. A noted characteristic will be the elbow Bleews and rounded fichu The newest fashion in fichus is quite full, but short. It passes around the shoulders and, in stead of being crossed, or fastened in front, is caught down with an oal gold buckle to the hoMow the the shoulder, at either side, in front The- ends of the ftctitt, whether they be short or long, are allowed, jabot-like, to hang loose below the buckles White panels, extending from the shoul der .clear to the hem of tho skirt, will be ' sot UK colored lawn frocks. The panels are made something like the fronts of je dS-tmt christening robe, of cluster tucks, alternating with lace insertion These may he arranged in points, or straight hortaontal lines. The Insertion Is usually whipped in by hand a kind of sewing that makes pretty fancy work for Idle days. It is most effective in point ar rangement and may be made quite elabor ate by using lace beading instead of otuptor tucks, and running babj ribbon through thetbeading. Bcsrln on It Aovr. Any one who begins such a front now can easily have it finished before the end of spring y working on it merelj at odd moments. It is cut across the waist line and tacked to a belt, so that the cor sage and. skirt are really separate. Noth-ing-could be In higher i ogae than a deli cate sink, buff, blue or sea-green gown, wk a laoe front, made by hand, and trimmings of knots of black elet rib bon or light satin ribbon, matching the color of the gown. The front should De unimed, to show the bare neck and the dainty lingerie beneath. Many- of the summer gowns will hae a perfect swlri of plaited flounces around the bottom. Tucks will be used to dis traction. Box-plaits, stitched half way down, will meet sedately oer full under- slalts fhat wllj not reveal themselves i until .the jffea&er vfalks Much stitched apojlDattim of Jtny black -velvet ribbon wuTVahuar &ariV wash dresses decided.y unwndKitilA, TSteat elaboration of lace will e uea,vana; thin, light-colored stuffs wiU"Ve trimmed with rosettes and float ers of mouesetine de sole in the same shade, Tho shape of the skirt must depend on the type of figure it is designed for. 3mm will be very scant, with slender trams, and others will be emphatically full, the fullness being laid in close plaits and stitched smoothly down" about the upper part. All, however, are to be in commodtottBly long. An exquisitely fresh toilet Is made of tight rose-cetered batiste, in narrow platt td panels, tapesed almost to nothing at tho wmtet. Between the "panels are. flat Hiaces of batiste, checkered with a lattice-work of lace insertion. At the bot tom of the skirt are three full plaitedr flounces of batiste, with a row of narrow Mook velvet ribbon heading the narrow horns. The ruffles are wider and mount higher behind than in front. The top flounce has a heading made of three row s of loco heading, threaded with black -velvet ribbon. Tho bodice has a deep round yoke and sleeve tone ail of laoe Insertion, unlined. Tho remainder of the siee-ves, which areS thjht. te laid in uastKehed. horizontal tuoka. At the left of the bust is a huge. Birr roeette of black mouseeline de sole. Mid a black mouesellne de sole sash. Irawn tight around the waist, is clasped a the back with a souare gold buckle left hararinc in two long iuu siream Tho bottom of theyoke and the ie Is of the high, smooth collar tnat te one with it are finished witn flat tows of beading jand black rlb- JTho bottom of the sleeves are tor- In the same way. Mbou PinU to Be Worn. A great doal of pink is to be worn, anali,, xlas walst Ube irL f TOBt . u tight turquoise-blue with a touch of anem- ocj, will be & favorite combination. Many charming frocks will be of figured organdie, made up with solid-colored or gandie, matching the ground of the fig ured fabric This affords an excellent opportunity for the use of remnants, that can always be had at rare bargains. For example, a quaint wide light blue and white stripe having a tiny rosebud vine running through the white stripe will be made up with a bias seam, at the cen ter of the back and front, so that the stripes will meet in points In front and behind. The points are to turn down in front and- up behind. One point just touches "the ground in front, and from be low it the skirt Is cut off all the way around, carefully following this one par ticular stripe, in the cutting Then the skirt Js brought vback to the requisite length by v adding a circular flounce of ' solid blue organdie that may be covered with a number of little plaited ruffles. The yoke and sleeves may be made of the rose strips, between rows of unlined Val enciennes lace insertion, and the trim ming, collar, girdle, etc , 'may be of white taffeta and pale rose-colored satin. The plaltlngs on the skirt should be hemmed with narrow white taffeta rib bon. The loose fichu, drooping off of tho shoulders to show the yoke, should be of blue, edged with a narrow ruffle of -white lace; IJt should be left open, after the manner of the fichu described above But to return from the fanciful fu ture to the practical present0 tense In modes Visiting gowns that have been planned late in the winter are remark ably elegant, triumphs of the season as it were. Several are shown in a group on this page The girl in the background Is robed in supple gray cloth, dotted with black chenille. The tight-fitting jacket of broadtail is double-breasted and crossed Hair is loosely dressed. over the front, in two wide scollops, but toned down with two cut-silver buttons It extends down over the hips, where It Is sloped off In Louis XVI form The collar, which rolls high at the back, be comingly framing in the face, is of sa ble The sleeves, excepting at the very top, are covered with rich gray Arabian lace The broadtail is repeated in a scant ruffle, at the bottom of the skirt, and In a large muff, ruffled at the ends and lined with gray satin. The hat, which Is very original, Is made of folds of cerise -v elvet, stitched to a small high-crowned frame and trimmed in front with two large round wings of tulle, streaked with jet ted wires Ecrn Embroidery. The hostess is also gowned In gray, but of a lighter, softer shade. The suit Is uniquely trimmed with small, detached motifs of very deep gray velvet. The VvXu A? VxVttOfcV VISITING motifs which of ecru embroidery, under are passed ehort ribbons of deep gray velcet The mo , A erJ' tifs are set on all aroUhd the bottom j of the skirt, more of them being used ! in front than behind. On the corsage they are applied in the stjle of brande bourgs. The front of the bodice is decol lete, over a flat gulmpe of ivory-colered H panne, finely tucked. The collar Is of panne to match the yoke, and the girdle. or deep gray velvet, is allowed to dip is clasped, witn an antique silver buckle In the foreground is a costume of pastel t , j ' green cloth, that, at first glance, does not appreciably show the amount of labor Hhat has s been expended upon it. The whole narrow panel down the front and the circular ruffle that shows beneath the pointed edges of the simulated tunic oversklrt are -of cloth, closely covered with flowers embroidered Jn white silk floss that is barely tinged with green. The effect is marvelously lovely. The em broidery is so smooth that It has the lus ter of satin, like the work that is done on Japanese robes of state. The panel and the points are edged with corded pipings of wnlte satin,, placed In a close group between corded pipings of black velvet. The front panel is crossed at regular Intervals by the same black and white pipings, applied in points. The small coat collar with rounded lapels and the cuffs' are of black velvet, piped with white satin, and the front is filled fn with a white silk stock and shield. Another single sketch shows an allur ing new ball costume. It Is made or spangled black tulle and wide cream-coi-ored lace, over ivory white satin. In form It Is princess, fastening invisibly at the left side. The spangled net is full length in front, but shortened behind, al lowing the white lace to fall in a deml train. In front, the two ends of the wide lace flounce are crossed lightly over and ornamented with a large, black vel vet ribbon rosette. Other rosettes are placed at the right anff left or the decol letage, which is draped with cream lace. A soft, graceful drapery of turquoise blue panne begins under the rosette at the shoulder, is looped up and caught with a fancy buckle to one side of the waist, from which it falls again, to be caught In under the double rosette, at the oppo site side. The sleeves, which leave tho shoulders bare, are made tight-fitting and of unlined lace. They are beaded with a row of pearls, and strands of pearls form the shoulder-straps. ANITA DE CAMPL FASHION JOTTINGS. Hints of Use to Women Who Would Be Well Dressed. NEW YORK, Feb. 5 The most advis able "best-dress" material for a. middle aged woman who wishes something that .wll remain In fashion for at least another year, is velvet An excellent color Is a shade of rich maroon, piped with black marten, in lieu of sable. The bodice should be opened in a V and worn over a 'collar and shield of tucked white satin. Lining Is an item in dressmaking that has lately caused much debate. Whether skirts shall be lined or not depends en tirely upon the weight of the material used. "Trotting" and walking skirts are almost invariably unlined, being made of heavy stuff, usually double-faced goods Silk skirts are frequently unlined, or lined with separate drop-skirts; silk dress-skirts worn with oversklrts are never lined. The most delightful and serviceable material for good skirt linings or petticoats Is adapted from men's tailoring supplies. It is called satin serge, and is the sort of stuff that is used In the lining of over coats. It wears practically forever, and molds Itself nicely to the figure, being less crisp than taffeta. A full, annexed ruffle of taffeta will be found to give the proper flare to the bottom of the dress above it. The best tailors are us ing an inch-wide band of stiffening in the skirt hems. An effective extra waist may be made out of two yards and a hdlf of tiny striped black and white taffeta, having wide bands of black satin, woven at regu lar intervals into the silk, running paral lel with the fine stripes The back should be made with a bias seam down the cen ter, at which the stripes meet in blunt V shape. The front, which should not be fulled, should be cut in the same way. It should be -covered, from above the V at the bust line, with a smooth yoke of white satin, veiled with heavy cream lace The narrowest possible turquoise blue, or coral-colored baby ribbon, should be worked in and out-among the meshes of the lace. Chenille may be used instead of the velvet ribbon The stock collar should be of coral or turquoise panne, and a narro"w girdle of the same may be caught together behind, with a double metal clasp; The sleeves' should be long and end In a point or bell at the knuckles. They may "be faced either with .panne cr lace over satin, and turned back from-" the hand If desired. Transparent yokes, partially embroidered with a design, carried out in Jet spangles, TOILETS. are serviceable appurtenances, converting ballroom toJets into dinner and recep tion gowns. Such jokes -are worn with stock qollars of pannesatin or4 mirrored velvet" '" AV de-C PREVENTS FALI.IAG OF HAIR. Crude Petroleum Successfully Used for tlie-k Purpose. "A. certain head of hair possessed by a agef begaT1 to. faU ln combfuls every time j her tresoes were brought well upon the head, as the present mode demands," says the Philadelphia Incmlrer? V'With that Becoming, wavy looseness In the back, xnls styte was too successful to be lightly given up, ana nesiae, it nair wiu not pear combjnfe &lgh, something; is radically .wronghus reasoned the woman. To get Tit mer root or the hair and trouble she followed faithfully, for a fortnight, a treat ment which is simple and sensible. As a result the hair not only ceased falling out, but "became wavy and 'alive as well. She used crude petroleum jelly, working it into the scalp, not leaving it outside, to prove worse than useless." Here ia the recipe for making the halr leritllizer strike home, It being promised -Jthat "lanolin furnishes the best means or conveying a food or medicine into tne skth: Procure then a quantity of lanolin and mix it with a like quantity of crude petro leum. Put a little on each finger tip, sit down comfortably to this fertilizing proc ess, and If poss ble, before beginning, what Is to be continued once every day for two weeks, shampoo the head. .Having hair and scalp clean, begin with the front hair, bend the anointed fingers and begin a pa tient, gentle rubbing, getting directly at the scalp, touching any part but the roots of the hair as little as may be. Folow the same rule for the back, be ginning with both sides of the crown and then working up from the base or "scruff" of the neck. At first it will be OCH3EE3aa53a li ARTISTIC impossible to prevent the hair looking a little greasy, but brushing will help this and for those who object to the brush, the hair may be well rubbed with a soft, fine cloth or large silk handkerchief. As soon as the hair stops coming out, the ap plication may be discontinued, but a gen tle massage with all the fingers will be found necessary to continue the good work. CHATELAINE BAGS. Mnny Novelties of Most Attractive Design Being Worn. The chatelaine bags show many attrac tive novelties. The newest Is made of white monkey sk'n, studded with steel to form a conventional design and mounted ln silver with a gray finish. Bags of gray suede are also the fashion, with the mounting of gun metal, studded with ame thjsts, bits of topaz or turquoise. Quaint looking little bags, made entirely of crocheted silk, will be carried with many of the new spring costumes. They are round in shape, and are just about large enough to hold a small purse and a hand kerchief. These bags are sold ln a variety of colors, and are mounted in many ways, some ln oxydized silver and others in gilt with rose finish. Bags of white metal are also a novelty of the hour. Beaded bags, such aa our great grand mothers 'made and wore with prfde, are ex tremely fashionable. They are worked not only in .plain, but varl-colored beads, and pretty conventional floral effects are seen. For example, a bag of fine steel bead3 will show through it a design of violets worked In tiny purple beads. The blaok velvet bags show many beautiful mount ings. Those In s lver with a cameo In the center, and those of silver in the new Homeric designs, are among the most artistic. FANCY SLIPPERS. Tendency to Return to Open Scroll . Worlc Designs. A fancy of the season in fancy slippers Is to match heels and trimmings, in color. Amongj the trimmings none aret so well liked as cut steel buckles and elides, al though those of rhinestones hold their own, and gilt and oxidized silver, set with rhinestones, rubles, sapphires, emer alds and garnets are popular. English morocco ln lavender, light blue, red and cuir color and English deerskin in dove gray are among the new materials em ployed thla season for semi-dresa slip pers. There is some tendency to return to the carved or open work that was in vogue 25 or SO ears ago, but the custom of filling the open spaces or fretwork with gilt leather is fortunately not revived A high cut slipper, carved in a scroll design and buttoning over the instep, allowing the pretty silk stocking to show through, Is one of the newest designs. Carriage boots ln crushed velvet and quilted satin, ln shades to match opera cloaks, are trimmed with fur, and many of them are finished with a mink's head in the front. Babies' carriage boots, made with quilted satin tops and trimmed with swan's down, are ln vogue in the East. COUNTY FADS. TRANSPLANTED. Novel Idea- for a Drawing- or Ball room Entertainment. There is no end to the fun in a home Imitation of a country county fair trans planted to the city drawing-room or ball room, with proceeds donated to ch'arlty. At the real thing there Is red lemonade for a nickel, fortunes told for a quarter, popcorn balls for a dime, barber-pole stick candy for a cent, rings to throw over canes,, six tosses for a dime; tintypes for a quarter, sideshows at 10 cents, the art gallery for a quarter, the general exhib its free, and the racetracks for 50 cents, with an admission fee of a quarter for, each adult, 10 cents for children, and a quarter for the horses, with extra, fees for feed; 'All these "explains the New York World, which originated the idea, are eas ily caricatured for the house, and the uni form fee of a penny Or more, to add zest to the fun, can be put' into the charity boxes. There are mystery-cardsby which car bon photographs can be caricatured; and which, cause endless fun. Fortunes qan be written, placed ln envelopes, and sold re gardless of everything but sex. The fat S?1 Wm i lady, skeleton man, bearded lady, etc., can be exhibited In an alcove; rings can be tossed for peppermint candy oanes; the racecourse may be merely one sporting picture, viewed in secret, one at a time; the art gallery represented, in illustrated rebus form. For instance, "The Man "With the Hoe" 13 represented by a garden hoe, with a rag tied on the handle, containing the word "Man"; "The Song of the Iark" by a song in sheet-music form and a stuffed lark. The Ingenuity of the hostess will sup ply quite a list. The groups can be num bered and a catalogue of the art gallery compiled and sold. For the stock show there are any number of animal forms in metal and china for sale on the streets and in the shops and a large collection can be made with slight trouble. All these little-creatures must have their own enclosures. The domestic exhibits can be made the refreshments for the evening, while the fancy work can be presented by vote to the most popular, handsomest or jolliest woman present. To Gloss Collurs and Can's. There Is a knack about getting the right kind, of a gloss on linen collars and cuffs, but the method is easily learned by a competent laundress. The gloss desired is I- BAM GOWN. like that on new linen, and is produced by friction with a warm Iron. The ar ticles to be glossed are starched as much aa possible, according to the old-fashioned method, and then dried. A piece of sperm, parafflne or white wax, the size of a hazel nut, is generally added to the starch. When ready to be Ironed, the linen is dampened slightly and Ironed in the usual way with a flat Iron. Then comes the glazing. A peculiar-looking, heavy fiat iron, rounded at the bottom, and polished as bright as a" mirror, is used, and is pressed firmly upon the linen and rubbed with much force, thus producing the gloss. Plenty of friction is the secret of glossing linen to perfection, but there is a knack ln knowing how to apply the friction. To Restore Stained Garments. Fresh fruit stains may be removed by scalding the garment ln boiling water before washing it. Ink stains usually succumb to soaking ln fresh milk. The milk will not injure the most delicate col ors Saturating an article ln salts of lemon, lemon juice and salt, and drying in the sun, will efface most stains, in cluding Ink and iron rust, from white fab rics. If the fabric Is colored the acid will remove the color as well as the stain. Oxalic acid Is still more powerful for the same purpose. After using It wash the article, or the acid will Injure the fabric Ammonia will restore color which has been taken out by acids. When, however, the acid has been used to remove a stain, the spot often reappears as well as the restored color. French chalk is a specific for grease spots Get the chalk ln the stone, as the powder frequently 13 adulterated, and scrape it on the spot un til It Is well covered. Leave the chalk on until it absorbs the grease. Two or three applications often are necessary for the purpose. Brush the chalk off thoroughly each "time before renewing it, and use plenty of it Wedding: Cake's Origin. Our wedding cake Is the remains of a custom whereby a Boman bride held in her left hand three wheat ears and, many centuries later, an English bride wore a chaplet of wheat. The bridesmaids threw grains of corn or small bits of cake upon the heads of the newly married and the guests picked up the pieces and ate them. The wedding cake did pot come into gen eral use until the last century, and was then composed of solid blocks, laid to gether, Iced all over, so that when the outer crust was broken over the bride's head, the cakes Inside fell on the floor and were distributed among the guests. Bridal favors are of Danish origin, the true lover's knots having been first de signed by Danish hearts and deriving Its designation from the Danish truelofa "1 plight my troth." Beaver Coming in Again. Beaver furs have not been worn for a good many years, but more and more of them are being seen this winter In Eastern cities, and they are distinctly fashionable. One trouble with beaver Is that, though, it Is a pretty fur. It Is very warm and heavy for this climate. It seems to fairly generate heat, and when a heavy Jacket of it Js once put on, it is suicidal to change for anything else. It Is worn as jackets and capes. It la not a fur that stout women can wear, as they can the Iamb, which flta the figure like a kid glove and seems hardly thicker". Beaver Is pretty for children's clothes as trimming or edging. Amulet Fad. One of the uses of the new fad for amulets Is to have the medallion fitted with a brooch pin and hook on the back, and watlt ,with the kimona, now so popular In the place of wrappers, tea gown3 and other- negligeesgarmehts. The medJBdJlggsusedto plmtbe kimona to gethar leaving the necklace hanging loose ly' abouf the neck." Sensible Footscar. Foot clothing for men and-women has never been so sensible nor so comfortable as it is now made, since the days when the forefathers trod their native heaths and forests In bare feet, or their descend ants wore sandals. Siring- LotT Swing Low, Swing letv-swlns low Now do the Sleep-folk gather. Queer little people, aa you must kaow. With ways that amaze-ue. rafrber; People with raetheds of Taking- away. Safe te their country ttvay bear us. Hey, there you balmiea with eyes Mue ergr&TV Sometimes- the Sleep-people- scare ual Swing" low swine low Th4 to a sobs' for ray dearie. Faith' she Insisted on music, and', I may sing on UJl I'm weary. Swing- low awing low5 Here is a fatherly Brownie. Up cornea to Invite you, invite you to go. Wrapped ln Sleep's mantle bo downy, Unto the couitpr where Brownies abound. Where elfins are playing- above you. The queerest queer country that ever you found. Where ait of the Sleep-people love you. Swing low-swing- low Better bo sleeping, be sleeping. The Day-world but wearies. It wearies, and bo. Into the Sleep-world go creeping. Bwtag tow swing low Sleeptlme and nighttime are nrar us. The little Sleep-people now flit to and fro; They come bur to greet us and cheer as. X moment, a moment and you shall be- there, With elfins of Siumberland cheery, Paat the world of unrest and the country of care. My little one, little one. cearlo. Swing low swing low Byell&s ire creeping, down-creeping. 1 One faint final flutter, one flutter, aad , My balrnle Is sleeping. Is sleepteg-. A. J. Waterhouse in S. F. Bxasateer. FEMALEFUR1ESRUNAMUCK Pennsylvania Coal Strikes Disclose Bnpleasinsr Traits of Emotional Hungarian Femininity. Recent strikes in the Pennsylvania coal regions have revealed a new element the desperate activity of women ln labor dis putes. Within the last few weeks there was an exhibition at Old Ferge, hi the Keystone state, of what a fierce and furi ous thing a coal mining strike can become when women are aggressively active in it. ft Is one of the results of the great In flux of Hungarian labor into the anthra cite valleys during the last few years. At Old Forge and elsewhere the Hun garian women were extremely active and Vindictive in resisting those who bad taken the places of their husbands and brothers. The striking miners and laborers general ly kept out of the way, but their women folk were constantly upon the alert, and when the "scabs," as they called the men who went to work, were on their way to or from the mines, there was a demonstra tion by angry, shrieking and gesticulating women. Morning and evening the work ing force of miners had to run this gaunt let of abuse, which was frequently accom panied by missiles of various kinds. "I could hold my own against a man any time," said a veteran- miner who went through the recent strike at Old Forge te a correspondent of the New Tbrk Herald, "but those Hungarian women were more than my match. They ate garlic every morning and spat ln our faces. They threw rotten eggs and red pepper at us when we came out from work ln the even ing, and we could not lift a finger agaisst them because of their sex. "Oh, didn't I wish that one of them was a man for five minutes one afternoon. She hit me on the rim of the hat with an egg that you could hear a mile away. The juice of the thine nearly blinded me, and then she called me a 'scab.' That was about all the English she could get off, but it was enough. I was as mad as could be, but kept my hands off her. The ganff of women followed us, booting and hissing, for nearly a mile. The men were very patient, and the women knew it and took advantage of them." WOMAN'S PROGRESS. Elizabeth Cady Stanton Expatiates on the Situation. "To the student of history," wrote Eliza beth Cady Stanton recently, "a law of progress Is apparent, steadily running from century to century, gradually de veloping the higher possibilities of the race. The emancipation of woman from, the bondage of the past has culminated during the last century In the assertion of her right to an equal place on this, planet, claiming the simultaneous creation of man and woman, with an equal title deed to Can't Afford It. She Why don't you dance this danee. Bob 7 He It's the lancera, I can't afford HI She Whatever do you mean 7 He Why, the last danee. I went te, la the lancers I had my coat tern te bits, see ewff pulled off my shirt, and lost two shirt studs and a sleeve link' Fun. this green earth and equal dominloa over every creeping thing thereon, according 1 to the Book of Genesis, claimed by some to be the earliest record of the race. "Fifty years ago, like the daughters of Zelophehad in the ecriprures. woman brought her case Into court, with her own judges, advocates and witnesses, and made a popular appeal for her right to an equal Inheritance. The goddess of Justice, weigh ing the claims of man and woman, .said? 'The women are right, so let It be 'Open sesame!' And gave them the key to the schools, colleges, trades and professions. In the face of leaders of church and state they pushed back bolts and bam, walked the wards of the hospital, entered the courts of Justice, expounded te com mands of God in the pulpit, and ques tions of government in legislative halls. - "In vain dM men protest, as thy saw the power slipplrijr from their hands- vain were their thunderbolts Of denunciation. Women began to-fill an equal place, grad- J ually taking possession of all the vantage IKis m ttfe woeW of thought anl aco erWnns into the eMtoeea bv th t srt. ptteMitr their wy m the trades a- peanaotwte, beeomhtg the most do" , , cators, authowi and actors, and ra l wwns imo cMnpeoiMR with the most mftnimreu muHVMHij, scientists ana a eeapmrs, proving themselves the c -of man ia every department whra navo ha4 enial opporttmltiee for dc saent. "Men and that class of women du parasites by Olive Sehreiner are a V less to roll back this Incoming tide of Ir, teuigence as was Same PartlngtOT eating Back the Atlantic ocean. It is Pol loo late for bishops, senators college e menu, professors and fashionable woiis te set Units to the achievements an 1 &i gresetons of 'Sve's daughters. The w1 " of progress never move backward w aa s pataway onware ana upward,, ar m full equality te accorded her eve where; until the aaaon and civil law! -MMes and eonsOtations shall alljfe bof wiw wve ana reverence to the 'motM of the race.' " FOR STOUT AITO THIN WOXZST. Mental Hxerclse Redaces Corpulent -Regimes fer Spare Females. A man. nfay, and does, grow weary the soft contour of a merely pretty foe but he Is, and will be always, pieasantl attracted to the bright sparkle of t face, lit up by a brilliant mind and culd vated Intelligence that sparkles In H eyes and melts around the mouth, as the clover owner talks or listens Intell exercise is Just as beneficial in rodu corpulency as Is physical exercise Mi who use then brains constantly and lively rarely grow too stout Women of leisure inclined to. embol point should Interest themselves in literature, study, anything, evrythni tnat tends to Improve and cultivate ti minds and give brightness and a.ertne rte both character and expression course, the woman who is incline I to too thin must adopt a regimen, the, vel opposite of the one followed by a?r s rstoter. Aff a rule thin people ar II dined to be Irritable, nervous easily wc ried and annoyed. They take trifles heart and are frightened at nothing they want to gain weight and good loop they should strenuously combat this nappy disposition, they must not tola so much about themselves Let thpm stead, advises the New York Hera i discussing the Influencing of Intellect!: alertness on women's physique, take some interesting pursuit, which w 11 lea them no time to worry and fret over tl nee. "It is a wise adage," continues the Hit aid, "that tells us to 'laugh and grow fa There is a great deal of truth in thu terse- little words. Thin people ought sleep all they possibly can, and take abundance of good, rich, nourishing foot) such aa muk, butter, cheese, eggs, noi! Ishing meats and gtarchy vegetables they should be careful not to overtax digestion, as that uses up flesh quite much as does violent exercise. "They should avoid all exciting stir lams, such as tea and coffee. On contrary they may drink malt Hquoi such as beer and porter. The- thin worn! would better avetdr such meats aa ve jams ana au tne outers Known as youl meats,, for they contain numerous formed tissues, which are assimilated wl difficulty. The woman who wants to a handsome, erect carriage, and to we well, must, by Judicious and varied cxf ctee, let no set of muscles fall into dl use." TAIB OF SBVBSJ SHIRTS. One Garment More or X,ess DIj Count WItft "HhbbIc" She was a very punetlHoua little Soutj era lady, says the Chicago TIme3-Heral and he was a big, happy genial Southe man, with a notorious disregard fir matters of dress. When he was goll away, frmo home for a week, his wi carefully packed bis valise, and tl: gently, out nrmiy, law down the a am "Now, John, I have put six clean sili m your bag, which will be one for ea L day that you are gone. I want you ta sure to put on a fresh shirt every mor tog. Promise me'" John promised hi and sealed the promise with a kiss At the appointed time he returned hor and the dainty housewife began to pack his satchel, with a view to suppi ins: the laundry bag. Then she cas downstairs with a world of perplf and reproach in her gentle face. "John," she commanded, ' whera those siv extra shirts I sent off with yo I've been through your bag, and there b one there'" He looked as puzzled aa si and protested he didn't know where thl now were, though he had positive iy f lowed her instructions about putting a fresh one each day. After a while too, retired upstairs, and shortly aft ward his wife heard a whoop of triumj proceeding from, above. As she approached the banisters, an clied face loomed over and a happy vol! rang out: "I've found em, my dear l'i found 'em! The whole seven shirts safe! I've got 'em all on!" Lessens Women's Labor. A machine that is intended simply a humanitarian device, and- will not xoi wages or throw anybody out of em pic ment. has recently been introduced! for ti benefit of the scrubbing women in navy department at Washington, It 11 wheeled vehicle, with rubber tires. when operated spreads brushes over root. It takes two or three women drive this machine, but it does away the necessity for them to get down their knees in order to accomplish tl scrubbing process. According to reports, It has been, wl corned as a boon by the scrubbing wome particularly as its introduction, unllj that of most machinery, noes not mee reduction, ln the previous force of workers. Care of Room Plants. Room plants should, be kept where will have the full benefit of sunlight not be exposed to frost Air, heat ai moisture In duo proportion and under right circumstances are essential to life and zrowth of plants. They sho'J be watered only in the morning of a mil sunny day and very sparingly ln fr weather, betas at the same time protect: from tho chill outdoor air They should also be kept free from cayed leaves, the earth at the top ened occasionally, and some rich 2?pol added. If these directions ar follow! tho chances are tersely in favor of plants remaining in a condition that give satisfaction to the household. Sauoe for Gander. A law was passed recently in Nor making ft obligatory for girls to show " tfneatee of nroftcioncy in cooking ting and sptaninr before being permitt t Brry. A Philadelphia newspaper wt or thinks that this statue should be ptemented by the passage of a aw oerbMr men inelieibte for matrimony cannot produce1 certineates of profMen m buOlmg fires, staying in at mgos similar desirable accomplishmenta.