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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 17, 1895)
THE SUSDAT OS.EGOXAIs', POKTJAI FEBEFAKir 17 1S95 13 U.VT1L YOU CAME. Around the circle f my yeans it eenW That Fat had woven wine distempered charm. "U hereby the wing&d boors might raiss their calm, And I the heritage whereof r dreamed. T e mansion of my We was dusk, and teemed i'Ii MMe that wbtapered aorrow and alarm, J" r Hope wsi attll an unaccustomed balm, And Luvc wh yet a promise unredeemed. I looked for light. et found not any traee Bejond thoe star-stirred vaetneeeeE and eblll That claimed and kept my utmost soul until You met me like a herald, face to face; As day meet night ujwn the farthest Mil, And whites all the darkest depths of space. Ferdinand K. Kappey. Feijcb FsbioDs. ZSxtrnurcIina ry Toilettes Worn at the Skating; CInbK. PARIS. Feb. 16.-At the Palais de GJace. In the afternoon or eening, are to be seen some of. the most extraordinary toi lettes worn In Parie Often rich and al ways new-fangled, they illustrate the lat ent cut in sleeves, the newest and biggest r jches, the widest hats, the most correct A VISlTIXa TOILETTE. shades in color, the skirts of a thousand or less godets. and in fine are a part of what is known as the "true chic." If they out-diatance the dross of copserva tlve women, they form part of the van guard that conservative women will fol low a few months In the rear. Though some of the ideas will nip in the bud, others are germinating for spring and will rago with ths dogstar. Hence their thril ling Interest. Tor background is a circular building with a roof of glass and a floor of ice, Eldewalls painted into a cyclorama of Monte Carlo and Uie blue Mediterranean, Sailed galleries that form a promenade, music, a heated and perfumed atmos phere, and luxurious men and women dawuling at tables where they sip gin cocktails through straws, or elbowing the railing to reach undertone distance of some skater who has paused from wild jigeon-cuttlng to flirt. Here follow some toilettes sketched at random: SMARTLY DRESSED SKATERS. A dress composed of a sable cape with long stole ends into which is inserted a ' oke of cream guipure lace in long points, is exceedingly rich in effect; a gown of black velvet, embroidered with Iridescent r-qulrs on the blouse front, and a tracery or the same on all the skirt seams, from the belt half way down, and a toque of black velvet with an enormous rosette on each side, and from each rosette a stand ing pompon bedewed with mock diamonds a'. I n front a bunch of violets. The char acter of the toque dependsupon the great !zc of tho rosettes, and nothing Is seen of It 'n front view except the rosette on each tde, the hair in front being rolled high. A gown of gray watered velvet with un tr'mmed skirt and bodice front in a blouse of three box plaits, with jeweled studs down the middle one. and the back like an Eton jacket, made to reach slightly c.er the belt, the belt studded through the center -with steel rosettes; sleeves run i' r.g out into a form of mitt to cover the p.'.'.m of the hand, slashed open to the wrist on the Uttle-flnger side; black hat with cream guipure draped round front, a. lmg black bow on each side, and a yol- CLOTS AXD VSLVST GOJCV. l.w paradise tail standing la the center. In this dreas are especially to be noted tho steel rosettes, really buttons of cut steel, whlh will be much used oa doth gowns ::cst spria, and the blouse studs, which w..l be In great vogue for Wous fronts it summer. Mock jewels, in fact, are c fashionable for dress decoration, and a-c being ued with more freedom than w s generation has ever seen before. A BRILLIANT BLACK GOWN. V toilet alt black, with the aldrt of wool crrpoc. the front breadth lappa over do wn one sMe and a threc-ineh wWe hem " i of velvet added on and falling loose be yond the seam, the seam covered with a passementerie of jet; the blouse of velvet with heavily jetted net inserted down the middle of the back and front; a large, fluffy neck ruche of black studded with jet. and a gigantic hat turned up behind with a mass of black poppies forming a vertical plaque that, fiom back view, en tirely obscures the hat. White mousque taire gloves drawn up over the sleeves. A study in sepia. A skirt of brown serge with lines of cream cloth running down from the belt in irregular lengths and lat ticed over with brown soutache; blouse of cream cloth braided all over with brown soutache; sewed on at one edge and stand ing out from the ground its full width, with extraordinarily novel effect, with gigot sleeves of brown striped from top to bottom with the cream, the stripes wide where the sleeve is wide, and narrowing down towards the wrist braided over with brown. A sable tippet with a cascade of talis at each end, and brown felt hat, trimmed outside with black in satin ros ettes and tips, and under the slightly roll-ed-up brim on each side a bunch of flow ers in cerise shades, light on one side and dark on the other. A SKIRT SYMPHONY. A eoler symphony in a skirt of checked wool, black, white and green, and a blouse of green silk overlaid with black lace; sleeves to the elbows met by beige-tinted gloves; black hat, with plumes falling tound the face. Another is a brown silk skirt piqued with black, and brown velvet Eton jacket over a bouffant front of white mouselline de sole, the upper part in puffs and in sertions separated with narrow bands of sable. A sable tipped with brown satin ribbon lied round it in a bow under each car, and black hat turned up high in the back with a big passion flower surround ed with velvet and white lace on the front. Which is no more successful than a black satin gown untrlmmed and heightened in effect with a large white lace collar with, the edge slashed into points in back and fiont, and running- out into long squares over the sleeves, all edged around with sable. Including the neckband. Both toilettes illustrate the mingling of fur and lace. A nocturne in black serge, the bodice with single-stitched box plait down the center, the front half covered by a wide satin ribbon, black underfaced with gray, sewed into each under-arm seam and wrinkled across each other diagonally downwards to end at the belt line on each side. For a wrap a half length chin chilla cape with an insertion of cream guipure near the edge, made by sewing the guipure upon the lining and adding a strip of fur below. Hint to those who wish to make over their furs. Regarding these fur capes with insets of lace, two of which have been described, scarcely anything can be imagined more luxurious, and there is no doubt as to their costliness. To see rich furs cut into so ruthlessly draws attention by giving a shock of surprise, and this is the clinch ing test of their success. I could add to the illustrations a beautiful seal cape of half length nearly overlaid with Ori ental lace in deep points, the fur visible only at the edge and in the high Medicis collar, but this lace Is not inset but is GO HIV OF RRA 1DFD SERGE. caught down upon the fur with much the same effect. VIOLETS AGAIN IN FAVOR. Many toilettes are brightened up with violets, which are quite as much the rago as they were last year. The latest idea is to pin a bunch of artificial ones under each ear or under one ear on to the fur tippet or the ruche, and another one is fastened over the muff. Costumes specially for skating are not made, the habitues of any skating circle needing too great a variety of toilettes to make this practicable. All Is foreseen. In the dressing-room is a maid expert at fastening up the skirt to the exact short ness necessary. She takes up each godet with a separate safety-pin and forms of the -whole, just below the belt, a little frill not ugly at all. VERY ADVANCED. A French woman of fashion told me in a confidential mood the other day that she had ceased to wear petticoats and had found an admirable substitute. The substitute is a pair of black satin Knickerbockers lined with white flannel, ami a lining in the dress skirt of wadding quilted on black satin. It is a great inno vation for a woman used to lace-ru tiled petticoats, but she explained that she took the idea from wearing- a bicycle dress. ' THE LATEST FOR THE BICYCLE. Regarding this same bicycle dress just made, and which will soon be spinning over the Cornlche road, between Nice anl Monte Carlo, It is a marvel worth descrip tion. It is composed of an Eton jacket and knickerbockers of black vicuna, with large flaring revers faced with white pique, and a white pique waistcoat and turn down collar with square black knot: black sailor hat with Mercury wings and a white embroidered veiL This costume de serves a ho less descriptive epithet than stunning. ADA CONE. 0 THE CZARINA'S FINERY. She Tivihta He-r YounR Husband Round Her FinKers. We have been hearing some vary pretty stories of the young czarina's kind heart and benevolent Instincts, and the manner in which she Is alleged to be twisting the czar round her Angers is described as per fectly delightful from an English stand point. With all her graces and virtues, howei'er, Alexandra Feodorovna has a Woman's love r fbaerv ami tHnlrale oul she is giving- evidence of aa intention of J &$ indulging- it to the utmost. She has just given a Copenhagen jeweler a truly regal order for a diamond coronet and a neck lace of Oriental pearls. The coronet, which is to be framed of Greek crosses and worn in the Grecian knot of her hair, will cost S2M.0W and the necklace will be worth $M.Wi. Besides the rich jewels -which belong- of right to the czarina, presents galore are pouring In upon the young empress. The shah of Persia sent her a superb pearl necklace, which has quite a history of Its own. la reaching the Russian capital, saj a society tattler, this necklace only returns to Its original heme. It originally belonged to Catherine the Great, who was so fond of it that she used to sleep with, it around her neck. But greatly attached to it though she was, Catherine for seme reason or other gave it to one of her two Orloff favorites, who tpok it first to Germany, and then to Paris with him. In the French capital he met with that extraordinary adventurer, St. Germain, the magician, who went Into the best circles, was a great favorite with the king, and Ir fact, ruled the court so ciety of the day. This brilliant charlatan, who used to assert that he was over 1S00 years old and had known the Savior in Jerusalem, bought this necklace from Or ion! and sold it to the Persian envoy. Thus it found its way to the land of the lion and the sun, whence it is now re turned to the land of the bear. CLASSIC DESIGNS. Three Very Cliarminp: Patterns for Center-Piece. Of the many beautiful designs used in embroidery and fancy work, the classic arc at present most popular for doylies, center-pieces, scarf ends and other orna- mental and useful pieces of linen. There is a something about a truly classic design that never grows tiresome. The beauty and grace of the Renais sance is copied from the acanthus leaf, and the most beautiful of the French styles, the Louis XV, is at its foundation the acanthus leaf In a conventionalized form, and so on throughout the styles the charmingly graceful feeling of plant life forms the basis on which ornamental lines are founded. Linen is the most desirable for both fine and coarse embroidery work, and there are many grades of it manufactured, es pecially for this purpose. A few designs for embroidery on linen are shown in the accompanying illustra tions. One of the drawings suggests a neat de sign for a center-piece in the colonial style, and will be found very simple to work out. If the size, for instance, should be 12 inches square, the line of fringe will look well If about three-quarters or one Inch long. Consequently, an inch in from the edge work a line of button-hole stitching, all around these with a pencil compass describe a circle about eight inches in diameter, and marking-on the line opposite each corner a dot to indicate where the knot and ribbons will appear. On a piece of smooth paper draw this circle and make the dots to correspond with the drawings on the linen, and with a lead pencil sketch in one quarter of the entire design, taking care to have the flowers and ribbons in proportion to the illustration. Over this drawing lay a piece of thin architect's tracing cloth, and with a pen and water-proof ink, trace all the lines. To transfer this drawing to the body material, lay on the goods, face down, a piece of black or blue transfer paper, and over it the tracing, then, with a sharp point, such as the end of a crochet needle, that will not cut the tracing-cloth, go over all the lines. Having transferred one-quarter success fully, reproduce the others in a similar manner until the complete design is car ried out. To work the design use filo floss silk, which is very desirable for this class of work, and may be had In all colors and shades. A pretty scheme for this center-piece Is to work the flowers in apple green, the stem in light brown, and the ribbons In a shade or two of pink. This design will look well worked in a .light shade of any color on white linen. Another of the Illustrations suggests an attractive design for a round center-piece in the Renaissance style, and as the lines are quite open, it can be worked very satisfactorily in outline stitch. Light-pink -md green are pretty colors with which to carry out this design, the green to be used for the leaves and the pink for the thin line scrojls that jut out from the main circle. A pretty result may be obtained with this design by marking the stitches heavier near the .main rib, and carrying- the finer rear the ends of the leaves and in this way a more delicate feeling is produced than if the lines were all worked of uniform width. The sugg-?srion for a pretty doyly In the Louis XV style is shown in the large Illus tration. Of all the charming- French styles this one affords the greatest scope for beautiful lines adapted to decoration of every description, and especially for em broidery designs. The lines In this style do not signify anything in particular, but are brought to gether, forming graceful curveg an,j scrolls to work oat a conventional leaf, and for that reason it is admirably adapted to the decoration of everything where de sign plays any part as the lines can be readily made to conform to any shape and sie. These, of course, are a very few of the vast number of classic designs that are admirably adapted for embroidery work, but if they are carried out, some very at tractive linen pieces will be the result, and to those who are gifted with origin ality, they may suggest ideas that will lead to some pretty designs that, when put into practice, will produce some charming bits of fancy work. G. HARRY ADAMS. FOR THE TABLE. Three Rita of Domestic lvnovieds;c Kvery Woman Should Possess. Pistachio nuts salted are so expensive an item, but such a picturesque addition to the table that one should learn how to prepare th&xa at homo. Take a cup of the shelled xuitSj Wanen them, and, after re- ACOLOXTALCEXTER-PIECE. STYLE REA'A ISSAA'CE. moving- the skins, stir In some salt and a little sweet oil perhaps a tablespoonfuL Let the nuts stand for half an hour, then put them In the oven to become crisp, but not too brown- They should be served in a tinted china dish, that harmonizes with the color of the nuts, or in a bon-bon bas ket of filagree silver. A few chopped pistachios scattered thickly over a char lotte russe add to the appearance and flavor of the dessert. Paper frills and rosettes for cutlets are made in the following- manner: Cut a sheet of note paper into strips two inches wide and double them lengthwise to make the width of a knife blade. Cut the double edge into a fringe a quarter of an Inch deep. Move the edges of the paper one higher than the other, and the fringe will be bowed out instead of lying flat. Fasten the edges that way with a touch of paste made very stiff that made of corn starch Is best. Then roll the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil and fasten the end with paste, If it is to be slipped over the ends of frogs' legs, but if for cutlet bones of uncertain size, wrap them just before sewing and a touch of stiff paste will hold them In place. A new dish for a supper after the theater .goes by the rather odd name "Canape Lo renzo." It is a fusion of deviled crab meat and cheese spread upon slices of crispy, fried bread, and then put into the oven to be baked a rich shade of golden brown. The bon vivants become warmly enthusiastic over it, and it is often one of; the dishes served at a "Welsh rarebit spree." One devotee asserts that it has the flavor of crushed rose leaves, but this Is perhaps a poor recommendation to the gourmet who fancies something more high ly flavored. LA GRIPPE'S AFTERMATH. Advice to Those Suffering; From tlie Despairing; Melancholia. There is a story going the rounds that a strong friendship has been cemented be tween two men "because," explained one of them, "I told him I had the grip and he didn't suggest a remedy." There are as many cures as cases in this disease if you listen to your friends. Physicians, however, are throwing medi cine out of the windows and prescribing mental remedies. For the first few days physical stimu lants are needed, but grip, unlike the bane ful yellow fever, is a lingering disorder. After all danger Is over and the patient is. THE EARLY STAGES. getting about, the worst phase appears that terrible depression, melancholy, nervousness and the "world-as-dark-as-night" feeling, which come as a dreaded aftermath. To cure the.e symptoms, doctors advise plenty of amusementj Go to the theaters, no matter how loath you are to do so. Wrap up warmly, try not to think of the mole hills that have magnified themselves into mountains of trouble, listen to the music, and keep the nerves from feeding on themselves. In this aftermath of grip, thoughts are like vampires they suck the blood from every artery of the body. The aim, therefore, in seeking a cure, is to make the mind as near a void as possible, only letting pleasarXfc'ijsuGgnts filter in.' Depression is the terrible toe to fight. If given leeway for 21 hours, it is hard to conquer. Every possible bit of outside gayety should be eagerly grasped; It seems a straw to the drowning; but it proves a life preserver. Never give in to the desire to be alone; surround yourself with bright people, read the shallowest, most amusing- books, steep yourself to the brim with frivolities jou never cared for, probably, !n health. In all these things there is more saving grace than in physic. Grip takes its way by different routes through Its victims. Some women feel their Waterloo has conic, others lose In terest in things dearest" to them, and a third feels a mental weariness that drags the physical functions down to a danger ously low ebb. In the first Instance insomnia Is the thing to do battle with. A well-known physi cian advises a cold bath and brisk walk. To those who can't sleep after 5 P. M., waking up with a nervous chill and dire thoughts, the same dose is to be adminis tered. A society woman confesses to having- seen the sun rise five times lately. She has ufTcred so in the morning that the physician's advice has prevailed, and she touses her maid up every morning for a mile's spin at this unearthly hour. She drinks a hot Scotch toddy on her return and is tucked under blankets for a com- gjsp"r A XELAXCIIOLY RECOVERY. fortable snooze before her chocolate Is brought at 10 o'clock. The palate !s apt to turn against one also. The dishes that have tickled It grow flat and unsavory. New concoctions have to be thought out, and some of the follow ing recipes nave proved highly beneficial: BROWNED EGGS. Take half an ounce of clarified butter, mix with it a tablespoonful of bread crumbs, a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Have ready two paper souffle oases, butter them and put a little of the mixture Into each. Break carefully two fresh eggs, putting- one Into each case and oover, with bread crumbs.-- Let them set in 55$ 1'ifu f ' iff 7.V THE THROES. nl Mil" V Ms' ill "." TS' ' the oven, pass a salamander over to brown the crumbs and then serve. GR5I.LED OYSTERS. Put about six unopened oysters on a gridiron; as soon as they are partly open put Into each a bit of fresh butter sprinkled with peppsr. When they are quite open, which will take about seven minutes, servo with them bread and butter and some slices of lemon. CREME DE POULET. Take a quarter of a pound of minced and pounded chicken, from the breast Is best, add a small pat of butter, one egg, well beaten, a pinch of mace, pepper and salt. Beat up a teacupful of cream quite stiff, and stir it well with the chicken; put it into a tin entree mold, in which it can be served, and steam half an hour. QUAIL A LA MINUTE. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan, over which lay three e;ualls, breast down wards; add a very little chopped onion, parsly, salt and pepper. Set It over a brisk fire for seven or 10 minutes, stirring now and thsn; add half the juice of a lemon, half a glass of sherry, and a large teaspoonful of grated bread. Let the whole simmer a few minutes. Put the birds on a hot dish, give the gravy a warm up, pour over and serve. Any birds are good done this way. CLAIRE CLAXTEN. CINDERELLA MOVEMENT. "Imagine my surprise," said a fashion able woman a few days ago, "to get only an hour and a hairs pleasure at the last dancing class. You see," she continued in explanation, "it is two years since my husband and I have been out to social af fairs. This was our first subscription dance. We thought things governed in the old way, and accordingly took the evening- leisurely, arriving at 10:30. We got in one figure of the cotillion and pres to! supper was announced. It was one o'clock, and under the new rules no more dancing- allowed. We scarcely felt we had our money's worth, but rest assured we go at 9 o'clock to the following- one." The early hour movement, it appears, is a reform that has come to stay. It has been adopted by the matrons br ;aus theii' nervous powers are wearing out, and by the debutantes to preserve their faculty of enjoyment through the years to come. In smaller towns, where dances are not of nightly occurrence, and the next morn ing can be given over to sleep, the change in hours is not so necessary. But to the New York woman whose social calls come at noon and continue through the night, the reform is an essentially happy and vital one. It provides for her an amount of rest she would probably lack the deter mination to self-administer. The ball was set rolling in this direction of short hours last season, when the Cin derella parties were inaugurated to pro vide amusement during the Lenten sea son. Then very small, informal dances were given, where everybody left off at the stroke of 12. The plan was voted a success by the host of young girls attend ing. It has long been a philosophic conclu sion that to leave off before one is satiated is the better part of wisdom. This Cin derella Club found the maxim correct. The short hours increased their zest for the next affair, and found them the fol lowing day with no sense of having- had a good time and no sense of weariness. They did not suffer from that despairing disease which the Germans succinctly ex press as "katzens jammer." Of course, this restful opportunity is de nied to large functions like the Patri arch's, charity ball and assemblies, but many hostesses of the season have taken advantage of the discreet pace set by pop ular vote, and save themselves much fatigue by counseling the orchestra to play "Home, Sweet Home," at 1 o'clock. Supper is the pleasant finale to the even ing's gaiety. Another change In society circles is the sinking into innocuous desuetude of the formal afternoon tea. With the excep tion of a very few such receptions given to introduce debutante daughters this win ter, the custom has fallen into disuse. Even these affairs were not among- the exclusively smart set. If the house is spacious, a banquet like the recent one of Mrs. Elbrldge T. Gerry's is given, and this label "banquet" only thinly disguises a return to the old-fashioned ball. Or else, if the house does not boast a ball room, a scries of dinners are arranged to introduce the young woman. But the crush of an afternoon "At Home" has been relegated to the domain of people less original. It is dying a natural death. Dropping in to tea, however, in its primi tive fashion, is rapidly becoming more and more popular. Each person who ob serves their day at home has this beverage for their callers. And the custom does not stop at he prescribed reception day, for it is the vogue to serve the cup that cheers to whoever chances in at the twilight hour during the week. This has been more or less done for sea sons. The change consists in that instead of the hostess making- the tea on the table whose accessories are so familiar, a white capped maid or butler brings in the silver tray with everything ready. It only re mains for the chatelaine of the house to pour the liquid into the cups. Neither are there salted almonds, or wafers, or olives in this repast, but thin slices of bread delicately buttered and good old-fashioned jam or marmalade. If possible, a blazing wood fire adds cheeri ness to the scene, and the table on which the salver is placed is drawn close to the warmth. 'Tis another adoption from the English, but a pleasant, unartlficial one. ADELE MCALLISTER. A CREVPORT LEGEND. They ran through the streets of the seaport town. They peered from the decks of the ships that lay. The cold sea fos that came whitening down V.'as never so cold or white as they. "Ho, Starbuck and Pinckney and Tenterden! Run for your shallops, gather your men, Scatter your boats on the lower bay." Good cause for fear! In the thick mid-day, The hulk that lay by the rottinjr pier, rilled with the chiklfn in liappy play. Parted its mooring and drifted clear Drifted clear beyond reach or call Thirteen children they v. ere in all All adrift in the lower bay! Said a hard-faced skipper, "God help us all! She will not float till the turning tide!" Said his wife, "My darling will hear my call, Whether In sea or heaven she bide." And she lifted a quavering voice and high. Wild and strange as a sea-bird's cry. Till they shuddered and wondered at her side. The fo? drove down on each laboring crew. Veiled each from each am the sky and shore. There was not a sound but the breath they drew. And the lap of water and creak of oar; And they felt the breath of the downs, fresh blown O'er leagues of clover and coW gray stone. But not from the lipe that ltad gone before. They came no more. But they tell the tale That, when fogs are thick on the harbor reef. The mackerel-ftehers shorten Fall, Tor the signal they know will bring relief. For the olces of children still at play In a phantom hulk that drifts away Through channels whose waters never fall. It is but a foolish shipman's tale, A theme for a poet's idle page; Dut still when the mists of doubt prevail. And we lie becalmed by the shores of age, We hear from the misty,- troubled shore The voice of children gone before. Drawing the soul to its anchorage. Bret Harte. The permission given by the porte to members of the press to penetrate any part of Armenia, except the province of Bitlls, is already known to be absolutely without value. An English correspondent who recently reached Erzeroum was warned that he would better return, as the authorities could not guarantee him protection. It Is understood that one cor respondent, who was born and reared in Constantinople, has succeeded in evading the government spies, and hag gone to Armenia to join the commission of in quiry and throw himself upon its protec tion. - ' TALUE OF' SOCIETY BAB SPEAKS A GOOD WORD FOJt WARD MCALLISTER. I She Thinks the Xevr YorU Fonr'Han dred a. Splendid ResmJstinjc In fluence in the World. NEW YORK, Feb. 13.-(Special Corre spondence:) People are discussing, now that he Is dead, the value of Ward Mc Allister. The set that he represented was at least a conservative one ami his usefulness consisted in as far as l possible keeping from its portals those people who lacked birth or reputation, and it cannot be doubted that, no matter how much money was offered to this man, he never pushed, as he might have done, any one socially. There will always be drawn a line that divides society. This is the unchange able law which all wise people recognize. There are people as good, as handsome, as rich, as those counted in the notable Four Hundred, but they have not achieved the position occupied by their more tortunate sisters and brothers-. Mr. McAllister, a man well born, well edu cated, and with a curious ability for ar ranging festivities of all kinds, was se lected, not by a man, but by a woman, to do exactly what he did; to see, in the case of subscription dances, that every one had their rights; to put before the committee, composed of men, the names of strange visitors, and these men, not Mr. McAllister alone, decided whether the invitation asked for should be sent. Of course, influence counted for some thing, but usually birth and breeding had much more to do with it. Every New Yorker remembers how, some years ago, the entree was given to a young woman who had nothing to commend her in the eyes of the world but her beauty, which was great. The pretty but simple frocks which she wore were earned by her, as her daily work was drawing designs for carpets, a work which she did at home; home being represented by the quiet boarding-house in which she lived with her father and mother. Mr. McAllis ter met her, found her pretty and interesting, anxious to go into society, re fusing to accept any but that which she considered best, and he opened its doors for her. For a number of years she was quoted as the belle at all the swell dances, and finally made a very rich marriage. Her acquaintances in the fashionable world would have been glad to have as sisted her in making her marriage a func tion of great importance; but, with won derful good sense, she insisted on having the ceremony take place in the parlor of the house in which she boarded, and to it were invited only a few from among her fashionable friends and her own kin. Poverty was not a bar in the eyes of this man toward achieving a good posi tion socially, and it is a well-known fact that in many instances, where mothers begged for invitations for their daugh ters, he did all in his power for them; but that awful Vehmgericht, the commit tee, decided who should and who should not be among them when there was a sound of quiet and well-bred revelry by night. To sit on the top rung of the social ladder, and look with fastidio-is coldness through lorgnettes, framed sn diamonds, at the other climbers, is the ambition cf every woman who is rich and feels that she ought to be where she is not. The scheming and the plan ning that goes on to obtain what they want is, of course, disgusting, and tends to make the women who do it mean and low. The "charity dodge," as it is called, which meant getting an appoint ment on the committee of various hos pitals, giving enormously, and, in turn, getting the desired invitations, has long ago been played out. Women will take from Mrs. Parvenu all the money Imagi nable for their pet charities, but this will not buy an entrance to their houses, or anything more than the cooiest bowing acquaintance. A little woman who is here now, and who comes, like many other good things, from out of the West, is determined to get there. I have watched her with much interest, and I am convinced that if she is only patient for a little longer, she will succeed. Having plenty of money,her house is magnificent. Her husband probably never read anything beyond his business letters; but her library would be a de light to a book-lover, and she possesses volumes bought for her by experts, that would make the millionaire bibliophile a kleptomaniac. Her pictures are by the best artists in the world. Everything about her is irreproachable. She has given to charities until her name is well known. In turn, she has received from the women she would like to go among invitations to enormous teas, that are really social clearing-houses; but she has been wise enough to accept none. On the day of the tea she sends to her hostess a magnificent box of orchids, and a little note which tells that, as she is something of an invalid, she must deny herself the pleasure of going to large as semblies. In time she will be asked to luncheons. Then she will give one, and in a little longer timo she will bo asked to dinners, and that will mean that she has accomplished what she has wished, and has got there. "There" representing what she supposes is the land of delight. Many social climbers make the mistake of being satisfied with the visits of the men of a family, and this usually .means that they never get acquainted with the women. My little Western lady is wise. She is adopting what is vulgarly known as the "domestic dodge," is ready to take much advice in regard to her little people from elderly dames, and is horrified at the young married women who take away the bachelors from the single girls. Moth ers feel that they need not fear her. What she will do when she is in, it is impossi ble to say, but I have an idea that, once accepted, she will be less domestic and more flirtatious, les3 pleasing and more positive. A New York woman says that any wom an who was not born or raised in New York can get into any set she desires. When it is realized that, from the in numerable women who have what is known as "the gossip of information," and can tell on what unfashionable street the climber happened to be born, how she was willing at one time to go to public dances, and who her relations are, her chances are very slight. To my way of thinking, the cleverest thing Du Maurier wrote about was this: After many invi tations and much toadying, the duchess has called at Mr. Tomkyns'. To the hor ror of the hostess, her husband's aunt, an old Scotch woman, married to the game keeper on the duchess' estate in Scotland, appears at the same time. Mrs. dc Tom kyns instantly feels that, socially, she is ruined, inasmuch as the conversation be tween the two is varied and extensive. When the duchess is in her carriage again with Lady Alicia, she says: "Dear me, I had no Idea the Ponsonby de Tomkynes had such respectable relations. A nice old woman, the wife of my gamekeeper, was there. " It does make one feel more comfortable to know that they have de cent kin." Decent kin, however, is not particularly IHghcst of all in Leavening Power. ABSOLUTEOf FPUS appreciated anions Americans. Another social climber Is apretty woman who has a house that, if it wei in Florence, would be called a palace. She is. I fear me, not fated, to get where she wishes. Just now the newspapers have long articles about her. Her petticoats and her frocks, her slippers and her bathtub, the pictures she owns, and her horses, are all described. Nobody mentions her husband. He ha? decent kin, but there was a time, which is not referred to In society, spent by him in the penitentiary. During thesa years a devoted wife visited him when ever; she could, saved all the money pos sible to buy luxuries for him, and in re turn for this he left her, and in a state where divorces may be gotten as easily as a postage stamp, obtained one from the woman who had made her life a sacrifice to his wickedness. In a large Western city he made a fortune for himself. Then he married a young and pretty woman. A great effort was made for a position in this Western city, but, thank goodness, there are always some people who appre ciate the value of honesty, and a failure resulted. The dinners, the luncheons and the theater parties were only attended by toadies and people who owed their liv ings to the millionaire. So these two peo ple left the West and are now here. The society reporter tries to do his best to help Mrs. W. X. Y. to gain what she wishes, but the Patriarchs, with their dignity, and even the "Howling Swells," with their frivolity, scarcely care to ac cept, no matter how fine the orchids may be, the society of a notorious thief. It is true those days 3pent in the penitentiary date 30 years back, but a thief is a thief, and there Is no blotter sufficiently absorb ent to take from him such a vice as that. I think it right there should be social lines. I think it right there should be a Vehmgericht and formed of men; formed of men who wish to make honor the at mosphere breathed by their wives and daughters, and insist upon decent conduct and good reputations being attached to women and men who stand close, socially, to the women of their household. Yotr and I, and our neighbor, read about cer tain people and believe that they are in society, that they have passed under tho blue ribbon and are counted among tho elect. My dear friend, not one-half of tho people whose frocks and belongings are described, who are, in fact, the joy oC the reporter, have gotten into the close portal where society in New York Is gov erned by women who, like the duchess, appreciate decent kin. And decent kin doesn't mean thieves, scandalmongers and women whose whiteness of character ia blurred by a touch of mauve. Don't you think I am right? I am sure you do. Whether you are a man or a woman, youl appreciate the fact that any society worthi going into, any people worth going among, are those who help to form the decent kind. Decent is a good word. It is plain Saxon, and It covers a number of virtues Decency means honesty and purity, and is theadjective that is most desirable, wheth er it is attached to a man or a woman. Think as I do about it. Weed your list and demand that decency shall character ize your visitors. Harsh? Not a bit of it. I am very weak on forgiveness, but still do think that to make the world better, decency and decent kin should be Insisted! upon by all women as positively as It is b BAB. GEMS IN AMERICA. Diamonds. JSmcrnlrtn, Opals. Sap phircs, Turtinoises nntl Others. Although nearly all known varieties of precious stones are found in the United States, there has until recently been littles effort made to search for them on an ex tensive and systematic scale, the indica tions not usually premising a sulficient return for any great outlay of capital. There were mined during the last year the following precious stones: Tourma line in Maine, emeralds In North Carolina, turquoise in New Mexico, sapphires in Montana, and opals in Washington, Ore gon and Idaho. Diamonds are found scattered over tho country, but up to date never in com mercially paying quantities. The two chief diamond belts are along the southern base of the Alleghenies, from Virginia to Georgia, and .-.long the western base oC the Cascade and Sierre Madre mountains in Northern California. Sapphire Is found chiefly among the crystalline rocks along the base of the Appalachian mountains, from Chester, Mass., to Southern Georgia. The largest corundum crystal evr found, which was five times larger than any other known crystal, is now in the collection of Am herst college. It suffered somewhat in the disastrous fire of 1S02. Turquoise is one of the most important gem products of the country. It is found in several localities in New Mexico, Ne vada, and Arizona. Some Is also obtained in Fresno county, Cal. During the last two years turquoise has been actively mined for in New Mexico, reopening soma of the mines originally worked by the Indians, and they have found turquoisa equal in color to the finest Persian mate rial. Stones have been found at these new localities weighing up to 60 karats, one of which was sold for about $4000, and it is now possible for the first time in the last half century to match a per fect turquoise necklace. Garnets are also found throughout near ly the same region as the turquoise. Some of the exceptionally fine ones have brought $50 or 100, though line one-karat stones seldom bring over $5. The garnet output from this section amounts to about $5000 in cut stones annually. Opals and amothysts are the two other precious stones of the greatest importance in this country. In the new opal beds in Oregon $20,000 worth of the gems was obtained in 1892. LniujiK on the Harness. Recent visitors to Germany, and Berlin in particular, have noticed the large num ber of coupes and open carriages which are lighted with electricity. Many of these carriages are drawn by horses which have electric lights fastened to their har ness, either on the blinders or on some part of the collar. These lighting ap pliances are a specialty of a Berlin firm, which furnishes the fittings, lamp3, re flectors and storage batteries. These fit tings are made of ebonite, and the wires which convey the current are insulated by rubber tubes, which are buried in the harness to protect them. The lamps are connected with the harness by flexible conducting cords. The lamps are lighted by a battery of accumulators of four or six cells contained in a small case, weigh ing 40 or SO pounds. Each element is contained in a hard ruber cell. No acid is used, a gelatinous mass being substi tuted. The case containing the cells may be placed under the seat of the carriage and is capable of supplying current for 20 ampere hours. The Idea has suggested itself to the owners of four-in-hands to equip the coach and harness with fit tings for the electric light. Lights were thus fixed in pairs on the collar of each horse. The emperor of Germany has 20 hunting carriages provided with a lamp at the end of the pole. The storage bat teries are easily charged before setting out. Count Tolstoi has just finished another work, which is called "Priceless Wealth and all tho Trouble Attached to It." Latest U. S. Gov't Food Report