THE MORNING OREGONIAN, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 1921
ASCENT OF EVEREST
TH
BEGINS THIS H
Attempt to B.e Made From
. East to Scale Mount.
OTHER ROUTES REJECTED
Explorers Meet Great Obstacles
Puring Final Surrey Incident
to Bash for Peak.
XCopyrteM. 1H21, by the Public ledger Co.
Published by Arrangement.)
SIMLA, India, Sept. 5. (Special
Cable.) The newspaper Pioneer says
the Everest expedition's base is only
20 miles east of Mount Everest in
stead of 30 miles, as bad been report
ed, and that the party expects to
make a final attempt to climb the
mountain from the east early this
month. The expedition expects to
return to Uarjeeling at the end of
October.
-BT COLONEIi HOWARD BURT,
Leader of the Mount Everest Expedition
(Copyrighted and Supplied by the Mount
Everest committee.)
KHARTA, Tibet, Aug. 4. (By run
Her to Simla, India, Sept. 6.) (Spe
cial Cable.) A month having been
spent in reconnoitering the northern
end western approaches of Mount
Everest and mapping the surrounding
country, it was necessary, as the time
was getting on, to move our camp to
the east side of the mountain in or
e'er to investigate the nature of th
approaches and what were the pos
eibilities in that direction.
Great Difficulties Rise.
The northern and northwestern
faces of the great mountain would
appear on close investigation not to
afford a practicable means of ascen
to the summit, ad the difficulties to
tie surmounted at extreme heights
would, it is feared, prove insuperable.
On the south side, too, as far as could
be seen the mountain is defended by
great precipices, so that the only
hope of finding a possible way to the
summit lies on the east and north
east faces.
On July 24 the base camp started
to move from Tingrl Dzong. The
people there were quite sorry to say
cToodby and many of them came to
eee us off. Our two interpreters
Gyaltzen Kazi and Chheten Wangdi,
nave proved invaluable in establish
Ing friendly relations with the Tib
etans wherever we have gone. I do
not know how we should have got
on without them at the time Captain
wheeler and I were the only occu
pants of the camp, the others being
scattered about the country, each
busy with his own particular job,
Start Made In Snow.
Our first march from Tingrl was
southward across the plain to Net
sogu, where is a bridge over the river
that comes down from the Khomby
c lacier. We camped beside the bridge,
and on waking in the morning found
two inches of fresh snow on the
ground. The snow still was falling
steadily. We started off, however, in
the snow and, crossing an easy pass
fame down to the monastery of
Chhoebuk, in Rongbuk valley. Here
Mallory and Bullock met us, having
given up the idea of trying to get to
Kharta by the high pass just north
of Mount Everest, being extremely
doubtful as to where they would come
out. The weather at the time was far
too unsettled for such an experiment,
with a great deal of fresh snow down
to the 16,000-foot level. Captain
Wheeler stopped at Chhoebuk to carry
on a photographic survey up the
Itongbuk valley, but how long he will
remain there depends upon the weath
er, which is very uncertain.
Interesting Foaalls Found.
From Chhoebuk we marched to
Rebu, our yaks following the river
road while we crossed a spur upon
which were many interesting fossils.
1'rom the top of this spur there is a
fine view of the high peaks north of
Mount Everest, almost precipitous,
and also of the northern face of Mount
Everest, which appears to be unscal
able owing to the great banks of
perpendicular black rock which seem
eimost to encircle it. Rebu is a pic
turesque little village situated on both
sides of a rushing stream which flows
through well-cultivated barley and
mustard fields. The sides of every
little irrigation channel were outlined
with wild flowers. In places they
were purple with monkshood and del
jihinium, or yellow with marigolds
and buttercups. Black and yelhow
clematis also abounded, for this is a
favored, sheltered valley, though 15,
00 feet high.
Bridge Collapse Surprises.
From Rebu to Chongpu was a long
Inarch of 21 miles over Doyala. On
starting we had quite an exciting
time owing to the bridge over a
stream collapsing just as an old
woman and Bullock were crossing.
Both disappeared for a moment un
dr water, but were rescued without
much difficulty. Except for the wet
ting they were not much the worse
for their experience.
The path at first led through a
narrow gorge of limestone and sand
stone, then up over gentle slopes to
the top of a pass 17,000 feet high, full
of interesting flowers.- The dwarf
blue poppy meconopsis abounded,
as also several varieties of gentians,
while white, yellow and pink saxi
frages were everywhere. It was a
delight to wander slowly, noting all
those different flowers and admiring
the varying beauties of each species.
Climbing a hill to the west of the
pass we had a very wonderful view
to the east, extending far beyond
the Arun valley to the great snow
masses of Kinchinjunga. To the south
Makalu occasionally showed some of
its immense rock precipices, but a
cloud prevented a really good view
westward. A fine range of rocky
and much glaciated peaks, 23,000 feet
to 24.000 feet high, extended north
ward from Mount Everest. Once over
Doyala we entered a region of new
vegetation and a new climate. Here
we. began to feel the direct Influence
of the monsoon, and the hillsides
every whoie were greener.
To us the vegetation appeared
quite luxuriant, coming as we did
from the dry climate of the Tibetan
plains. Some miles down, the valley,
at Chongpu, we found tents pitched
and fuel and milk all ready, await
ing our arrival. The surrounding
ground was carpeted with gentians
a great change for us. We rode
between willow bushes, wild roses
and juniper, the last usually covered
with clematis. The path led beside
a clear sparkling stream, past many
deep pools in which we could see snow
trout lurking, until we came to the
main Arun valley, or the Valley of
Bhongehu, as It is still known here.
We passed some of the finest pop
ar trees we have seen. One a little
way up the valley, had a great trunk
43 feet in circumference, and must
have been of a very great age. I
also measured a juniper tree whose
trunk, at five feet from the ground,
was 25 feet in circumference.
Going a couple of miles down the
Arun valley, we arrived where, an
other big glacial stream descends
from the eastern slopes of Mount
Everest. Here we had selected a pi
for our new base camp, at abo
12.300 feet, and had rented a hou
and earden. and we Ditched our tent
under the shadow of the poplars and
willows. It is a charming spot, high
up on an old- river terrace, and com
mands fine- views both up and dow
the Arun valley.
Zone Sheltered From Storms.
A mile below our camp the Arun
river begins Its descent through fea
some gorges. There is no path
route farther down the valley, as the
great cliffs descend sheer for several
thousand feet into the river. It was
curious to watch the monsoon clou
coming up the gorge and meltin
away, fading just before they reach
us. Hail and rain came down steadily
a couple of miles away, but we were
just on the edge of the dry zone and
very little came ud to us.
I made a trip one .day to the south.
derful high level valley at about 15
000 feet, in which were 14 lakes,
of different colors, varying in shades
from a black green to the lightest tur
quoise blue. This valley, too, was
taradise of wild flowers, and I coun
ed rhododendrons and eight varietie
of gentians as I walked along.
glorious, deep claret meconopsis also
grew there, about two feet in neignt
and with 15 to 20 blooms on each
stem.
Bnd Weather Interferes.
On August 2 Bullock and Mallory
started up Khartatsangpo to explore
the eastern approaches of Moun
Everest. On the same day Morshea
and Wollaston rejoined us after the
trio to Kilam and Longshahi. Tb
weather. unfortunately. interfered
much with their plans. However, they
got some lovely views of Gaurisanka
a most strikingly beautiful mountai
with fluted and almost transparen
ridges, so thin and ethereal do they
appear. Wollaston also found in
loveliest blue Primula, with droopin
bells of deep blue just coming into
flower.
The weather was now at Its worst.
The clouds came down to 16,000 feet
and remained there all day. So it is
just a question of waiting until fine
weather comes, which I hope the end
of the month will bring.
Our surveyors, however, have made
every use of the fine days we had
and have already mapped more- than
9000 square miles of new country.
The announcement that the explor
ers expect to make this month
'final attempt" to climb Mount Ever
est comes rather unexpectedly, as
both dispatches from the expedition
and authoritative commentators
seemed to indicate, the big effort
would not be made until next year,
No Hint of Plan Given.
There has been no hint that the ex
peditlon intended to return this fall
to Darjeeling in case of failure to
scale the mountain. ' From Moun
Everest to the Indian city is an ardu
ous journey of several hundred miles.
On the way out it took the expedition
a month to cover the distance.
It looks as though the expedition
has ascertained much sooner than ex
pected that there is only one practica
ble approach to the mountain and
that from the east. The fact that,
with bad weather coming on, they
have decided to attempt the climb at
once may also mean that they have
found the "easy route" which Sir
Francis ' Tounghusband and others
were inclined to think last month
was necessary to make practicable
an ascent this year.
Two Routes Inaccessible,
In the above dispatch, the ninth of
the series from Colonel Bury, the
commander of the expedition describes
the transfer of his base camp from
Tingri Dzong, northwest of Mount
Everest, to a point near Kharta, east
of the peak. The party found Mount
Everest inaccessible from the north
and the northwest, and while Colone
Bury does not definitely say so. It is
evident while camped to the north
west of the mountain they worked
considerably around to the west and
from there gained a view of the south,
all of which promised nothing.
It may be recalled that when tne
expedition started it swung far to the
northeast of Mount Everest and then
took a course du west that carried
It to -within 40 miles directly north
of the goal. The reported passes there
proved- Impassable, and the party
continued on to a point northwest of
Mount Everest, from which explora
tions were made as described in the
eighth article. Now the party has
virtually retraced its steps, bearing
probably somewhat south of its for
mer route, to the Kharta district.
Specialist to Study Climate.
HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe
cial.) To study the influence of cli
mate upon the people of the Pacific
with special emphasis on the cyclonic
storms of which Kona winds are the
manifestation In. Hawaii, Dr. Stephen
S. Visher, who has received the
Bishop museum fellowship from Tale
university, is in Honolulu.
Tourists Throng Honolulu.
HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 2. (Spe
cial.) The autumn tourist rush to
Hawaii is just commencing. Accord
ng to word from San Francisco a
total of 1500 tourists are booked to
come to Honolulu from the Golden
Gute this month.
Yes
it's toasted, of
course. To seal
in the flavor
EI
WAT VES
MYSTIFIED
Br AUTO
Party Halts Car in Seattle
Streets to Investigate.
EXPLANATIONS DON'T SUIT
northerners, Guests of' Captain
Amundsen, Amazed at Sot
Fin-din Animal Under Car.
SEATTLE. Wash., Sept. 11. (Spe
clal.) Six Siberian natives, members
of the remote Tsyukstji tribe, out on
an automobile tour of the city today,
had traveled less than two blocks
when they begged that the machine
be brought to a halt. The moment
the machine stopped, all six climbed
over the side and with eager eyes be
gan peering under the car to find
the wonderful being man or dog
who was able to push the vehicle
along at such remarkable speed.
They looked under the car, then they
looked at each other and then they
looked under the car again and after
that they looked with dazed eyes at
their two hosts, Captain Roald
Amundsen, world-famous Antarctic
and Arctic explorer, and H. H. Ham
mer, president of the Universal Ship
ping & Trading company.
Ah, said the six Siberians Yarak,
Tenek, Rolte, Cakot, Takatkin and
Attotoe in one breath, "ah, spirits.1
No, said Captain Amundsen, no
spirits."
No bad spirit?' questioned Cakot
eagerly.
No bad spirit," asserted Air. Ham
mer.
"No good spirit?" questioned Tenak.
No Spirits at All Is Reply.
"No good spirit," replied Captain
Amundsen. He then tried to expla'n
that there are no spirits in Seattle.
The six looked at him with doubting
eyes.
No spirits in Seattle," he said,
"All spirits are now in Vancouver,"
and the noted explorer didn t even
crack a smile.
There was a great conviction in his
voice and then and this wus the
climax the natives believed him,
Chuckling over the idea of being free
from all spirits in Seattle, they
climbed back into the automobile,
while Captain Amundsen tried to ex
plain gasoline. Mr. Hammer sat in
silence for a long time and then he
muttered: "Well, anyway, that is the
truth."
The search for the animal that pro
pelled the automobile was one of sev
eral incidents when the Tsyukstji
went riding. The six form the crew
of Captain Amundsen's Arctic schooner
Maud, now lying in Lake Union since
the vessel arrived here at the end of
August
Real Clothing Is Worn.
Captain Amundsen and Mr. Ham
mer, who is acting as the explorer's
general agent here, have attired them
in raiment such as they never wore
n Arctic Siberia real shoes, real
store clothes and Mai caps of real
cloth.
With the party were Cakonita, lit
tle Siberian girl, and Camilla Carpen
ter, daughter of a Siberian trader
whom Captain Amundsen brought
outh last July. He will send them
Norway to enter a school. The
wo children are old-timers to civili
zation now. Often they regard the
six seamen with amused eyes.
Used to the immense spaces of the
Arctic, the six Siberians were not
much impressed with anything of
rdinary magnitude. The Huge build-
ngs received only a passing glance
from them.
Horse Fascinates Visitors.
The L. C. Smith building, however,
eld their attention for a time. Cap
tain Amundsen and Mr. Hammer
ooked pleased and began talking
about the size of the building, the
umber of rooms and the like, point-
rig to this, that and the other thing.
Then they glanced at the natives to
see what impression they were mak-
ng. The six had turned their backs.
They were gazing with frank ad
miration at a dainty creature with
bobbed hair and white shoes who
was crossing Second avenue. Animals
all kinds chained the attention of
the natives. They had seen bear.
seals and dogs, but that was all. A
horse, passing along Second avenue,
fascinated them. They looked at each
other and nodded their heads. They
gazed almost with terror at a swiftly
traveling motorcycle.
The elevators in the office build
ings left them speechless but rest
less and they displayed a tendency
to climb the walls but they were not
as badly scared as an American girl
of 18 years ago who, born in- Fair
banks! Alaska, made her first visit
to Seattle last week. She shrieked
at the Woodland park zoo.
Visitors Crowd About Cages.
They crowded about the cages while
Captain Amundsen and Mr. Hammer
labored hard at explanations. The
fact that they could stand so closely
to wild animals and yet be safe
seemed to fascinate them. They wet
their lips as they studied a bear. He
looked like a dozen good meals to
them, they explained to Captain
Amundsen In a suggestive way. The
noted explorer did not take the hint.
This week Captain .Amundsen and
Mr. Hammer will take the six Sibe
rians to the circus.
When the sextet return to their
remote dwelling place in Siberia, it
is said, they will probably have one
of two courses open to them. They
can keep silent on what they saw in
Seattle and thus retain their reputa
tions as truthful men, or they can
describe the automobile, the horse,
the big buildings' and the dainty
creature, tripping across Second ave
nue, and live forever after as the
tribe's greatest disciples of Ananias.
ROAD NEARLY FINISHED
Lost Lake Highway Inspected bj
" T. .H. Sherrard.
HOOD RIVER, Or- Sept 11. (Spe
cial.) T. H. Sherrard, supervisor of
the Oregon national forest, was here
from Portland yesterday to inspect
the Lost Lake highway, completion
of which by forestry crews is only a
matter of a few weeks. Mr. Sherrard
said the forested shores of the lake
might become one of the most popu
lar points in the community. Auto
mobile parties by the thousands have
visited the section this year.
Labor day the motor visitors to the
region were estimated at 2000.
f
The Laundry Versus the Washing Machine
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40 SOCIALISTS ARRESTED
Radicals Charged With Distribut
ing; Prohibited Literature.
HONOLULU, Sept. 11. Forty-so
cialists, charged with distributing
prohibited literature, have been taken
into custody by the Japanese au
thorities, according to a cablegram
from Toklo today to the Nippu Jiji, a
Japanese language newspaper here.
Thirty other arrests are expected,
among them several women.
1 SLAIN, 1 SHOT, 1 HELD
(Continued From First Page.)
on his person at the time of the arrest.
Evans denied any knowledge of the
murder, responding to the queries of
his captors with the declaration, I
don't know anything about it."
Sheriff Roberts and Deputy Nixon
drove to' Madras this afternoon to aid
in the man's examination. Sheriff
Roberts stated that before leaving
Bend Nixon questioned Evans wife,
but that she maintained that her hus
band had spent the night in Bend. Im
mediately afterward, however, she
called an attorney, E. O. Stadter, and
was said to have told him that she
was afraid "Abe had got into trouble."
She was weeping at the time, the of
ficer said.
Klamath Attorney Is Married.
KLAMATH FALLS, Or., Sept 11.
Charles J. Ferguson, attorney and
capitalist, and Miss " Twyla Head,
county school superintendent, were
married Thursday at Weed, Cal., ac
cording to their announcement on
their return here last night. During
Bryan's free silver campaign in 1896
Ferguson was the Associated Press
correspondent aboard Bryan's cam
paign special. He is a veteran of the
Spanish-American war and a promi
nent Elk.
oytv washes
nta unities
The Laundry Performs All These Thinks
THE BIG outstanding feature of the
service rendered by the modern
laundry is that it is a complete
service. It relieves you of all the
trouble, worry and hard work con
nected with the family washing. From the time that the
driver calls for your washing until he returns it to you
immaculately clean, it passes through many processes
that are scientific, sanitary and clothes-saving. It is a
service that is true economy.
Now, take the home washing machine of today. Be it
ever so modern, it performs only about one-third of the
actual work of the family wash. It does not hang out
the clothes, or dry them, or keep them free from dust
and dirt, or take them in, or sprinkle, starch or iron them.
Its cost, maintenance and operation represent a goodly
sum of money. It is something that lies idle more than
six days each week an investment that does' not pay
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Just bundle up everything and "Send it to the Laun
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La undr y
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See Your Paper a Week From Today for Announcement 8 of This Scries
..!".. ,tSR.. ..,!..
' i
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Hawaiian Air Service Planned.
HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe
cial.) Regular airplane passenger
service between the various islands
of the Hawaiian group will be in
agurated here within a very short
time. C. C. Palmerston, represent
ing the firm of Barnhart & Palmers
ton, California designers and build-
ers of airplanes, is here looking over
the field and making preparations to
start the service.
Big Enrollment Expected.
EUGENE, Or.. Sept. 11. (Special.)
The largest enrollment in the history
of the schools of Eugene is expected
this year, said E. F. Carlton, city
ennarintandent. yesterday, in an
nouncing that the pupils will report
at the different buildings at 9
o'clock tomorrow and, after receiving
their book lists, will be aismissea
for the remainder of the day. Eugene
Vina vrnwn ffin siderably since the
ohnnlft nnened last year, said Mr.
Carlton, and the opening enrollment
is expected to be 200 or 300 greater
than that of 1920.
Japanese Standards Blamed.
HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe
clal.) "The standard of living as
practiced by the Japanese resident in
America Is one of the main causes of
the anti-Japanese movements and a
determination on the part of Japanese
to improve their standard of living
and to remain in America permanent
ly will go a long way toward eradi
cating anti - Japanese agitations."
This view was expressed here re
cently by T. Ohlba. director of the
Japanese Agricultural association in
California. He Is here for a vacation.
Sur-rVRIdilng Reslrlcted.
HONOLULU, T. H., Sept 11 (Spe
cial.) Due to the Increasing number
of students of surf hoard riding at
Walkikl beach, the board of harbor
commissioners had instructed the life
guards to restrict surf riding to cer
tain portions of the beach. Hereto
fore the surf riders have been every
where and with so many heavy boarda
flying about, danger of Injury re
sulted in a spirited protest and action
bv the harbor commliloner
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