THE MORNING OREGONIAN, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 1921 ASCENT OF EVEREST TH BEGINS THIS H Attempt to B.e Made From . East to Scale Mount. OTHER ROUTES REJECTED Explorers Meet Great Obstacles Puring Final Surrey Incident to Bash for Peak. XCopyrteM. 1H21, by the Public ledger Co. Published by Arrangement.) SIMLA, India, Sept. 5. (Special Cable.) The newspaper Pioneer says the Everest expedition's base is only 20 miles east of Mount Everest in stead of 30 miles, as bad been report ed, and that the party expects to make a final attempt to climb the mountain from the east early this month. The expedition expects to return to Uarjeeling at the end of October. -BT COLONEIi HOWARD BURT, Leader of the Mount Everest Expedition (Copyrighted and Supplied by the Mount Everest committee.) KHARTA, Tibet, Aug. 4. (By run Her to Simla, India, Sept. 6.) (Spe cial Cable.) A month having been spent in reconnoitering the northern end western approaches of Mount Everest and mapping the surrounding country, it was necessary, as the time was getting on, to move our camp to the east side of the mountain in or e'er to investigate the nature of th approaches and what were the pos eibilities in that direction. Great Difficulties Rise. The northern and northwestern faces of the great mountain would appear on close investigation not to afford a practicable means of ascen to the summit, ad the difficulties to tie surmounted at extreme heights would, it is feared, prove insuperable. On the south side, too, as far as could be seen the mountain is defended by great precipices, so that the only hope of finding a possible way to the summit lies on the east and north east faces. On July 24 the base camp started to move from Tingrl Dzong. The people there were quite sorry to say cToodby and many of them came to eee us off. Our two interpreters Gyaltzen Kazi and Chheten Wangdi, nave proved invaluable in establish Ing friendly relations with the Tib etans wherever we have gone. I do not know how we should have got on without them at the time Captain wheeler and I were the only occu pants of the camp, the others being scattered about the country, each busy with his own particular job, Start Made In Snow. Our first march from Tingrl was southward across the plain to Net sogu, where is a bridge over the river that comes down from the Khomby c lacier. We camped beside the bridge, and on waking in the morning found two inches of fresh snow on the ground. The snow still was falling steadily. We started off, however, in the snow and, crossing an easy pass fame down to the monastery of Chhoebuk, in Rongbuk valley. Here Mallory and Bullock met us, having given up the idea of trying to get to Kharta by the high pass just north of Mount Everest, being extremely doubtful as to where they would come out. The weather at the time was far too unsettled for such an experiment, with a great deal of fresh snow down to the 16,000-foot level. Captain Wheeler stopped at Chhoebuk to carry on a photographic survey up the Itongbuk valley, but how long he will remain there depends upon the weath er, which is very uncertain. Interesting Foaalls Found. From Chhoebuk we marched to Rebu, our yaks following the river road while we crossed a spur upon which were many interesting fossils. 1'rom the top of this spur there is a fine view of the high peaks north of Mount Everest, almost precipitous, and also of the northern face of Mount Everest, which appears to be unscal able owing to the great banks of perpendicular black rock which seem eimost to encircle it. Rebu is a pic turesque little village situated on both sides of a rushing stream which flows through well-cultivated barley and mustard fields. The sides of every little irrigation channel were outlined with wild flowers. In places they were purple with monkshood and del jihinium, or yellow with marigolds and buttercups. Black and yelhow clematis also abounded, for this is a favored, sheltered valley, though 15, 00 feet high. Bridge Collapse Surprises. From Rebu to Chongpu was a long Inarch of 21 miles over Doyala. On starting we had quite an exciting time owing to the bridge over a stream collapsing just as an old woman and Bullock were crossing. Both disappeared for a moment un dr water, but were rescued without much difficulty. Except for the wet ting they were not much the worse for their experience. The path at first led through a narrow gorge of limestone and sand stone, then up over gentle slopes to the top of a pass 17,000 feet high, full of interesting flowers.- The dwarf blue poppy meconopsis abounded, as also several varieties of gentians, while white, yellow and pink saxi frages were everywhere. It was a delight to wander slowly, noting all those different flowers and admiring the varying beauties of each species. Climbing a hill to the west of the pass we had a very wonderful view to the east, extending far beyond the Arun valley to the great snow masses of Kinchinjunga. To the south Makalu occasionally showed some of its immense rock precipices, but a cloud prevented a really good view westward. A fine range of rocky and much glaciated peaks, 23,000 feet to 24.000 feet high, extended north ward from Mount Everest. Once over Doyala we entered a region of new vegetation and a new climate. Here we. began to feel the direct Influence of the monsoon, and the hillsides every whoie were greener. To us the vegetation appeared quite luxuriant, coming as we did from the dry climate of the Tibetan plains. Some miles down, the valley, at Chongpu, we found tents pitched and fuel and milk all ready, await ing our arrival. The surrounding ground was carpeted with gentians a great change for us. We rode between willow bushes, wild roses and juniper, the last usually covered with clematis. The path led beside a clear sparkling stream, past many deep pools in which we could see snow trout lurking, until we came to the main Arun valley, or the Valley of Bhongehu, as It is still known here. We passed some of the finest pop ar trees we have seen. One a little way up the valley, had a great trunk 43 feet in circumference, and must have been of a very great age. I also measured a juniper tree whose trunk, at five feet from the ground, was 25 feet in circumference. Going a couple of miles down the Arun valley, we arrived where, an other big glacial stream descends from the eastern slopes of Mount Everest. Here we had selected a pi for our new base camp, at abo 12.300 feet, and had rented a hou and earden. and we Ditched our tent under the shadow of the poplars and willows. It is a charming spot, high up on an old- river terrace, and com mands fine- views both up and dow the Arun valley. Zone Sheltered From Storms. A mile below our camp the Arun river begins Its descent through fea some gorges. There is no path route farther down the valley, as the great cliffs descend sheer for several thousand feet into the river. It was curious to watch the monsoon clou coming up the gorge and meltin away, fading just before they reach us. Hail and rain came down steadily a couple of miles away, but we were just on the edge of the dry zone and very little came ud to us. I made a trip one .day to the south. derful high level valley at about 15 000 feet, in which were 14 lakes, of different colors, varying in shades from a black green to the lightest tur quoise blue. This valley, too, was taradise of wild flowers, and I coun ed rhododendrons and eight varietie of gentians as I walked along. glorious, deep claret meconopsis also grew there, about two feet in neignt and with 15 to 20 blooms on each stem. Bnd Weather Interferes. On August 2 Bullock and Mallory started up Khartatsangpo to explore the eastern approaches of Moun Everest. On the same day Morshea and Wollaston rejoined us after the trio to Kilam and Longshahi. Tb weather. unfortunately. interfered much with their plans. However, they got some lovely views of Gaurisanka a most strikingly beautiful mountai with fluted and almost transparen ridges, so thin and ethereal do they appear. Wollaston also found in loveliest blue Primula, with droopin bells of deep blue just coming into flower. The weather was now at Its worst. The clouds came down to 16,000 feet and remained there all day. So it is just a question of waiting until fine weather comes, which I hope the end of the month will bring. Our surveyors, however, have made every use of the fine days we had and have already mapped more- than 9000 square miles of new country. The announcement that the explor ers expect to make this month 'final attempt" to climb Mount Ever est comes rather unexpectedly, as both dispatches from the expedition and authoritative commentators seemed to indicate, the big effort would not be made until next year, No Hint of Plan Given. There has been no hint that the ex peditlon intended to return this fall to Darjeeling in case of failure to scale the mountain. ' From Moun Everest to the Indian city is an ardu ous journey of several hundred miles. On the way out it took the expedition a month to cover the distance. It looks as though the expedition has ascertained much sooner than ex pected that there is only one practica ble approach to the mountain and that from the east. The fact that, with bad weather coming on, they have decided to attempt the climb at once may also mean that they have found the "easy route" which Sir Francis ' Tounghusband and others were inclined to think last month was necessary to make practicable an ascent this year. Two Routes Inaccessible, In the above dispatch, the ninth of the series from Colonel Bury, the commander of the expedition describes the transfer of his base camp from Tingri Dzong, northwest of Mount Everest, to a point near Kharta, east of the peak. The party found Mount Everest inaccessible from the north and the northwest, and while Colone Bury does not definitely say so. It is evident while camped to the north west of the mountain they worked considerably around to the west and from there gained a view of the south, all of which promised nothing. It may be recalled that when tne expedition started it swung far to the northeast of Mount Everest and then took a course du west that carried It to -within 40 miles directly north of the goal. The reported passes there proved- Impassable, and the party continued on to a point northwest of Mount Everest, from which explora tions were made as described in the eighth article. Now the party has virtually retraced its steps, bearing probably somewhat south of its for mer route, to the Kharta district. Specialist to Study Climate. HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe cial.) To study the influence of cli mate upon the people of the Pacific with special emphasis on the cyclonic storms of which Kona winds are the manifestation In. Hawaii, Dr. Stephen S. Visher, who has received the Bishop museum fellowship from Tale university, is in Honolulu. Tourists Throng Honolulu. HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 2. (Spe cial.) The autumn tourist rush to Hawaii is just commencing. Accord ng to word from San Francisco a total of 1500 tourists are booked to come to Honolulu from the Golden Gute this month. Yes it's toasted, of course. To seal in the flavor EI WAT VES MYSTIFIED Br AUTO Party Halts Car in Seattle Streets to Investigate. EXPLANATIONS DON'T SUIT northerners, Guests of' Captain Amundsen, Amazed at Sot Fin-din Animal Under Car. SEATTLE. Wash., Sept. 11. (Spe clal.) Six Siberian natives, members of the remote Tsyukstji tribe, out on an automobile tour of the city today, had traveled less than two blocks when they begged that the machine be brought to a halt. The moment the machine stopped, all six climbed over the side and with eager eyes be gan peering under the car to find the wonderful being man or dog who was able to push the vehicle along at such remarkable speed. They looked under the car, then they looked at each other and then they looked under the car again and after that they looked with dazed eyes at their two hosts, Captain Roald Amundsen, world-famous Antarctic and Arctic explorer, and H. H. Ham mer, president of the Universal Ship ping & Trading company. Ah, said the six Siberians Yarak, Tenek, Rolte, Cakot, Takatkin and Attotoe in one breath, "ah, spirits.1 No, said Captain Amundsen, no spirits." No bad spirit?' questioned Cakot eagerly. No bad spirit," asserted Air. Ham mer. "No good spirit?" questioned Tenak. No Spirits at All Is Reply. "No good spirit," replied Captain Amundsen. He then tried to expla'n that there are no spirits in Seattle. The six looked at him with doubting eyes. No spirits in Seattle," he said, "All spirits are now in Vancouver," and the noted explorer didn t even crack a smile. There was a great conviction in his voice and then and this wus the climax the natives believed him, Chuckling over the idea of being free from all spirits in Seattle, they climbed back into the automobile, while Captain Amundsen tried to ex plain gasoline. Mr. Hammer sat in silence for a long time and then he muttered: "Well, anyway, that is the truth." The search for the animal that pro pelled the automobile was one of sev eral incidents when the Tsyukstji went riding. The six form the crew of Captain Amundsen's Arctic schooner Maud, now lying in Lake Union since the vessel arrived here at the end of August Real Clothing Is Worn. Captain Amundsen and Mr. Ham mer, who is acting as the explorer's general agent here, have attired them in raiment such as they never wore n Arctic Siberia real shoes, real store clothes and Mai caps of real cloth. With the party were Cakonita, lit tle Siberian girl, and Camilla Carpen ter, daughter of a Siberian trader whom Captain Amundsen brought outh last July. He will send them Norway to enter a school. The wo children are old-timers to civili zation now. Often they regard the six seamen with amused eyes. Used to the immense spaces of the Arctic, the six Siberians were not much impressed with anything of rdinary magnitude. The Huge build- ngs received only a passing glance from them. Horse Fascinates Visitors. The L. C. Smith building, however, eld their attention for a time. Cap tain Amundsen and Mr. Hammer ooked pleased and began talking about the size of the building, the umber of rooms and the like, point- rig to this, that and the other thing. Then they glanced at the natives to see what impression they were mak- ng. The six had turned their backs. They were gazing with frank ad miration at a dainty creature with bobbed hair and white shoes who was crossing Second avenue. Animals all kinds chained the attention of the natives. They had seen bear. seals and dogs, but that was all. A horse, passing along Second avenue, fascinated them. They looked at each other and nodded their heads. They gazed almost with terror at a swiftly traveling motorcycle. The elevators in the office build ings left them speechless but rest less and they displayed a tendency to climb the walls but they were not as badly scared as an American girl of 18 years ago who, born in- Fair banks! Alaska, made her first visit to Seattle last week. She shrieked at the Woodland park zoo. Visitors Crowd About Cages. They crowded about the cages while Captain Amundsen and Mr. Hammer labored hard at explanations. The fact that they could stand so closely to wild animals and yet be safe seemed to fascinate them. They wet their lips as they studied a bear. He looked like a dozen good meals to them, they explained to Captain Amundsen In a suggestive way. The noted explorer did not take the hint. This week Captain .Amundsen and Mr. Hammer will take the six Sibe rians to the circus. When the sextet return to their remote dwelling place in Siberia, it is said, they will probably have one of two courses open to them. They can keep silent on what they saw in Seattle and thus retain their reputa tions as truthful men, or they can describe the automobile, the horse, the big buildings' and the dainty creature, tripping across Second ave nue, and live forever after as the tribe's greatest disciples of Ananias. ROAD NEARLY FINISHED Lost Lake Highway Inspected bj " T. .H. Sherrard. HOOD RIVER, Or- Sept 11. (Spe cial.) T. H. Sherrard, supervisor of the Oregon national forest, was here from Portland yesterday to inspect the Lost Lake highway, completion of which by forestry crews is only a matter of a few weeks. Mr. Sherrard said the forested shores of the lake might become one of the most popu lar points in the community. Auto mobile parties by the thousands have visited the section this year. Labor day the motor visitors to the region were estimated at 2000. f The Laundry Versus the Washing Machine wringing mi mi rrfe! urn-- Zflatviork IROflED') STARCiING ) I FlAnnELS. REA0V FOR USt! 41! f- .rrtn iii ere u u- jilLUlll ' K.iHW I (WuUerFd 40 SOCIALISTS ARRESTED Radicals Charged With Distribut ing; Prohibited Literature. HONOLULU, Sept. 11. Forty-so cialists, charged with distributing prohibited literature, have been taken into custody by the Japanese au thorities, according to a cablegram from Toklo today to the Nippu Jiji, a Japanese language newspaper here. Thirty other arrests are expected, among them several women. 1 SLAIN, 1 SHOT, 1 HELD (Continued From First Page.) on his person at the time of the arrest. Evans denied any knowledge of the murder, responding to the queries of his captors with the declaration, I don't know anything about it." Sheriff Roberts and Deputy Nixon drove to' Madras this afternoon to aid in the man's examination. Sheriff Roberts stated that before leaving Bend Nixon questioned Evans wife, but that she maintained that her hus band had spent the night in Bend. Im mediately afterward, however, she called an attorney, E. O. Stadter, and was said to have told him that she was afraid "Abe had got into trouble." She was weeping at the time, the of ficer said. Klamath Attorney Is Married. KLAMATH FALLS, Or., Sept 11. Charles J. Ferguson, attorney and capitalist, and Miss " Twyla Head, county school superintendent, were married Thursday at Weed, Cal., ac cording to their announcement on their return here last night. During Bryan's free silver campaign in 1896 Ferguson was the Associated Press correspondent aboard Bryan's cam paign special. He is a veteran of the Spanish-American war and a promi nent Elk. oytv washes nta unities The Laundry Performs All These Thinks THE BIG outstanding feature of the service rendered by the modern laundry is that it is a complete service. It relieves you of all the trouble, worry and hard work con nected with the family washing. From the time that the driver calls for your washing until he returns it to you immaculately clean, it passes through many processes that are scientific, sanitary and clothes-saving. It is a service that is true economy. Now, take the home washing machine of today. Be it ever so modern, it performs only about one-third of the actual work of the family wash. It does not hang out the clothes, or dry them, or keep them free from dust and dirt, or take them in, or sprinkle, starch or iron them. Its cost, maintenance and operation represent a goodly sum of money. It is something that lies idle more than six days each week an investment that does' not pay dividends. Just bundle up everything and "Send it to the Laun dry." It will mean more time for other household duties, and leisure hours for the housewife. It is true economy. La undr y Ind ustr y Phone the Laundry Today Send rf ft tofhe ctguncfnj See Your Paper a Week From Today for Announcement 8 of This Scries ..!".. ,tSR.. ..,!.. ' i .s a, ; 1 Hawaiian Air Service Planned. HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe cial.) Regular airplane passenger service between the various islands of the Hawaiian group will be in agurated here within a very short time. C. C. Palmerston, represent ing the firm of Barnhart & Palmers ton, California designers and build- ers of airplanes, is here looking over the field and making preparations to start the service. Big Enrollment Expected. EUGENE, Or.. Sept. 11. (Special.) The largest enrollment in the history of the schools of Eugene is expected this year, said E. F. Carlton, city ennarintandent. yesterday, in an nouncing that the pupils will report at the different buildings at 9 o'clock tomorrow and, after receiving their book lists, will be aismissea for the remainder of the day. Eugene Vina vrnwn ffin siderably since the ohnnlft nnened last year, said Mr. Carlton, and the opening enrollment is expected to be 200 or 300 greater than that of 1920. Japanese Standards Blamed. HONOLULU, T. H., Sept. 11. (Spe clal.) "The standard of living as practiced by the Japanese resident in America Is one of the main causes of the anti-Japanese movements and a determination on the part of Japanese to improve their standard of living and to remain in America permanent ly will go a long way toward eradi cating anti - Japanese agitations." This view was expressed here re cently by T. Ohlba. director of the Japanese Agricultural association in California. He Is here for a vacation. Sur-rVRIdilng Reslrlcted. HONOLULU, T. H., Sept 11 (Spe cial.) Due to the Increasing number of students of surf hoard riding at Walkikl beach, the board of harbor commissioners had instructed the life guards to restrict surf riding to cer tain portions of the beach. Hereto fore the surf riders have been every where and with so many heavy boarda flying about, danger of Injury re sulted in a spirited protest and action bv the harbor commliloner 1920BUICK Perfect Condition.' New Cord Tires, Fully Equipped. Run 9000 Miles. . $1000 Cash. See DAVID WHITAKER The Man's Shop Washington Near Broadway PROGRESS ITALIAN RESTAURANT Strictly Italian Dishes Served in a Way That Will Please You Now Under New Management Special Dinner for Today Soup Italian Style. Crab or Shrimp Salad Filet de Sole with Tartar Sauce Spaghetti with Ravolli Half Spring; Chicken Fried Small Steak Bordelaise or Roast, daily Special Italian Ice Cream Coffee Tea Milk Also a la Carte A COOL PLACE TO EAT Fifty-cent lunch between 1 1 :30 A. M. and 2:00 P. M. 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