t?wj" mvtrttsutKmifTvfr-
S.
.
THE NEW AE, PORTLAND. OTtEaQ-N".
r!
I
PLEATS FOR SKIRTS.
ABSOLUTE REIGN OF SHEATH
SKIRT IS OVER.
flio Newest Cloth Drcnsct Are Com
binations In Which Bilk mid Velvet
Appear The New l'uttiio Velvet utiil
"Wlitit It la UhciI Tor.
Ktw Vork corroipondonce:
jltlOIIT BchemltiB
Ih llppilMUIt ill tllO
Ill'WUHt olotll (ltl'SS-
L'H. It lOOliH IIH IT
ilcslcni'i'M were con
viiK'L'd Hint women
linvc planned to ro
tnln cloth In IIh ro-
tout place of favor.
Ko to outwit them
wcic IciiiIIiik' tliuin
Ki'itdiiiilly bark to
HilkH and satliiH.
Tin- cloth and nilk
Kiiwii may lie con
Hidurod n.s olio lure.
It was ho quickly
miceeudcd by the
in ore Hrasonable
cloth and velvet rltf
that it hardly made
the ninrk it deserv
ed, The combina
tion with velvet
itntt taken hold belter, and ltn latest do
Tclopinent Ih away from Its ordinal sim
plicity of Hellenic The coIoih have be
come brighter and richer, and what vvna
Jyj Y 1
i imw k
4 f JT
White In gowni th& XrennmHket's aim
lit to avoid an appearance of too great
(dimness, Iouk coats oectu to be planned
for the opposite purpose. Empire coats
more or less like the one shown hero
arc abundant, and In any of them a wom
an looks as though she could slip through
a knot hole. Frequently their effect is
to build out the bust outline in pouter
pigeon fashion, and when all the promi
nence of straight cilt Is accomplished a
generously knotted scarf and a series of
ends accentuates this. With all this the
sides seem straight from under the arms
down. All sorts of modifications on the
plain Empire sides and front are shown
In the latets cloaks. The model pictur
ed willi Its straps set from the arm holes
forward to Just under the bust, the ends
of the straps llnished with pleated chif
fon, was very pretty.
Fringe has Anally been accepted with
a vengeance. The material Is dlflleuit to
wenr and to keep in order, especially Is
It trying at the back of a dress. This
was known by the designer of the pic
tured dress Hint was fringe trimmed.
It was taffeta covered with a heavy
corded net and the net set about the
front and sides of the skirt, disappear
ing under the back box pleat, which nar
rowed to nothing at the waist and spread
towards the hem. The bodice was cover
ed with the net, the fringe falling in
front over nn under plastron, Such a
dress appears delicate and Is very dressy,
but If the net Is of good qunllty and the
fringe Is tightly twisted silk cord, the
wearing qualities will be satisfactory.
GoMiis like the four put in the Inst of
to-day's Illustrations are especially In
teresting because it is Intended that
they shall be suitable next spring. They
3
BHa
513
fflw
tit;
THUKH LATH DEVELOPMENTS.
at first only a simple heading has come
to be trimming of almost any degree of
delicacy. In all these arrangements Is
one rhiirnelerlslle a glimpse of some
thing plain through a surface finish of
fluff or of elaborate embioldery, this in
stead of the billowing out of under frills.
The Initial picture hIiows a model gown
finished In this manner. It was gnu
metal gray oxford cloth, with yuko plas
tron and skirt trimming of violet punno
Ychet. A finish of chenille applique per
mitted tile velvet to Hliow tlirollgll.
I'auue velvet is a lovely material, as llo.v
llile as satin, Willi all tlie beauty of
ii tin and el vet combined. It is an lin
rroM'inent on mirror velvet, which has
Won deemed the limit of artistic effort
In its wn.. It Is a characteristic of
these new styles, loo, to relieve the quiet
effect of the goods by a color of consid
erable brightness about the throat. An
extension of (lie blighter color to the bolt
lb usual, because oI,ch have boon fash
ionable ho long that there is small chance
for novelty in the yoke finish alone.
A radical change is coming over skirts,
and It Is not improbable (hut by next
iqirlug the nile will bo. Put pleats In it.
Already the very slender woman should
not wear a sheath or a tight skirt. She
may be as modish and milch more becom
ingly dressed In a lm pleated skirt, the
are the very last of the dresses made for
wear without wraps, and of course no
sensible woman would invest In such for
the little wear that can be gotten out of
them this year. Those four are repre
sentative of all their class In respect to
their skirts. That is, the single skirt Is
seen only on the strict tailor dress, and
even thou st Itching or a front fastening
will break the simplicity. A long over
dress showing only a line at the hem of
the underskirt is a good choice. Such an
overdioss appears to fasten at the side
or down the front, and the fastening is
finished with straps or stitching. Often
the fastening appears to be continued
above the bolt. Skirts are not as close
as they weie. A back pleat or a little
collection of them is usual. Except for
the always absolutely plain strict tailor,
the bodice is Invariably open to Home ex
tent in front, either to show a smart
fresh yoke with a jaunty tie, a waist
coat attachment, nil under plastron or a
sot-in tint front. The round bodice,
seeming to fasten along the same line as
the overdress, the Jaekot appearing to
open oer a front or a waistcoat, the
lilt imI bodice showing a waistcoat plas
tron, the blouse laced together loosely to
show an under bodice, the little coat ap
parently intended to button but lot fly
free, all these are good models for the.
PLANNED TO HOLD OVKlt.
pleats arranged to spread a little at the
loot. Those skills are Jut appearing
and are sine to bo welcomed. Then'
nre many women whom the habit
tklrt docs not become and not a
few who will not wear It an
how. One form In which the other is
found nppcaia lioio. In a loss proiumui
il tpc the pleats are replaced by louglh
Uo tucks running the entile length of
the skirt. These skirts are worth study,
fur while the sheath skirt W attractive
over a louudcd and n not too plump tig
ure, MiuiireneKs and corners are deplora
ble when thus betiayed, Above the
belt, ton, this gown hail Its trick for the
thin woman. That was in setting buttons
alternately on the edge of the bodice,
passing ribbon velvet in some bright color
Around them and mi lacing the bodice
orrr under plastron and yoke. The only
test to be made for this is the mutter of
fcrcomiugucbii; Its stylishness U sound.
street cloth. While some of these dresses
are made of taffeta, most of them nre
both. Woolly oxfords In the mi Mil dark
grays clashed in general as gun-metal
color are in great favor, ('nmel's hair,
mixtures In tweed and cheviot and broad
cloth in heavy qualities are all used. Fin
ishing of stltihlng, of applique, of pleat
ing and strapping are In vogue. Hrald
lug in contrasting color still holds, bands
embroidered cloth or of perforated doth
are among the novelties, and cashmere
bauds In Persian colors ure a lute cry.
Copyright, 1SW.
A Shnrp .lotion.
When n woman cuts a ninu'a
qualutanco alio looks daggers at hlni.
CurnuoU
Monl nmilo of corn cobs ground U
used to adulterate many food products.
The end in view
In pultlnr on the mrkcl 1 good whls
key at CYRUS NOBLE li educational.
Wc wlh you to find out exactly
what It It.
W are convinced that we put up
the best poulblc whlikey at the price.
We with to leach you how good,
how much tuptrlor It It to other brandt.
We can do this only by having you
draw your own comparison!.
Try them alii give them all a fair
thow and we are almost certain we will
gain your patronage.
We'll gain It becaute CYRUS NOBLE
It ludged bit by the grcatett number of
people by the mott tkeplleal by the
connoltteur.
There are reatont why tU yean
In wood distilled from selected grain
70 years' experience In distilling behind It.
Why shouldn't It be good?
1 J. VAN Slllll X CO.
(IHCDRrORlTEO)
...Agents...
PORTLAND - OREGON
NERVOUS
DISEASES
- jWiJ.Ib'
f'7 - &$,,,,,tn ''
8. Chase, President. J. T. dove, Manager
Phono Ited 1591.
Montana Metallurgical Works.
(Incorporated.)
SAMI'MNO, ASSAYING. AND WO I? KING
TK&'IS OK OIIKS OF A Ma KINDS.
flmnll lots of High grade ores bought,
(iold mid silver rcllned or bought, ,
Mnclilncry for gninpllng, etc. Special facili
ties for inciting, refilling nnd teats.
Chnrgcs: Ores, alloys, etc.:
(Iold I1.M1 Hlllca I 2.50
Silver i.mi
(Iold and Silver 2.W
I-ead l.M
t'opper m l.W
Zinc 2.W)
Iron l.fiu
l.ltne JUKI
Retorting Amalgam l.M)
Platinum ft.00
lllsmuth fi.UO
lTc'crncoi on application.
MmiKiuieo 6 00
Tin fi.00
Colmlt 1(1.00
Nickel 6.00
Mercury fi.00
Arsenic 5.00
.Sulphur 3.00
Mngncsln 3.00
Phosphorus.- 5.00
Antimony 5.00
92 First Street
1'OIITI.ANI), OKKOON
TTKUDUIIT A. HAM:,
Mt. Hood, Columbia Hlvcr nnd Northwest
Views.
Portraits, Water Colors, Crayons, for the
trndo.
Klectrlc Light nnd llroinldc Kiilarecinents.
132 jTlilnl Street, Comer Alder.
PORTLAND, OUR.
WOOD
The cheapest nnd best In Portland.
Slab Wood.-Creein or Dry.
INSIDE WOOD A SPECIALTY
Oregon 'Phone Main 353
Columbia 'Phone 373
STOREY-KERN FUEL CO.
ANN ARBOR
.HOME BAKERY.
One of the most complete bakcrys In
the Northwest.
Bakes the Bost Pullman Bread In the West
M. SHIELDS, Prop.
347 Morrison St. l'OltTI.ANI), OK.
And 193 Union Avenue, comer Sacramento,
A 11)1 tin. Home-Hindu, bread, cakes ami pies.
United beans ami llostmi Drown llrcnd every
Hatuiday. Tel. Ked 1812; Tel. Itod 311.
FALL I FASHIONS
IN-
iiiHATwiii
AT ANY PRICE almost you wish. We guaran
tee the quality of every hat.
HiiiiiiNH
BUFFUM & PEINDUBTOIN
Exoluslvo
Furnlsnerfr
Solo Agents for Knox and Wnrburton Hnts.
Third and Stark Streets, Opposite Chamber of Oominoroo.
Aro very Konorul, owing to modern Imliits of living. Tito
norvori nru ofton ovortuxutl nnd laws of liuulth violated.
TonicH irrituto tlio nyHtuin nnd tirgo tho nurvurt to tiuim
titrul excitement, like the whip to the iiorM). Tho ono
restful, yet invigorating, remedy is olectriulty. Tho
Dr. Sanden Electric Belt
Kostoroa tint animal magnetism, rcclmrgcH tho nervo
llhor, tho glandH and tlio Wood with vitalism. For all
ain and weaknosrt thin trcatmont has great Kodativo and
Htrengthoning force. It in especially adapted to l'aral
vhJh and Organic DitsordorH, to Uterine and Nervous
Troubles in Women, to Varicocele and Dobillty in Mon.
Tho action of my now treatment is comforting nnd huh
taining. My "Tlirco Classo-i of Men," free for tho asking.
DR. A. T. SANDEN
llowarnof Klectrlc Melt frauds trading up
on lay III) yearn reputation. Their names
can bo hHil upon application to any of
my olives.
Russel Building, Cor. Fourth
and Morrison Sts.
Olllce Hours: 0 to C; Sunday, 10 to 1,
Kutriiiico un Fourth St. Second Floor
SSiriV'i-Jk D .fl n
fSAW
ENGINES
BOILERS
RUSSELL
High Grade
Machinery
SAW
MILLS
THRESHERS
STICKERS
RUSSELL & CO.
Write for Catalogue and Prices. PORTLAND, OREGON.
DRINK THE FAMOUS
A eiia-bistrca." s
FOR SALE AT ALL THE PRINCIPAL SALOONS
BREWERY AND OFFICE, " TftO?oRo"Ba J?K?.' 8t'
PORTLAND IRON WORKS
Manufacture otMiirlno and Stationary Engine and Ilnllor, Raw Milt, Flouring Mill anC
MlnltiK MHOhlnery, HlmttliiR, I In aire rn, Piillo). Hproekuts and Qearluq. I'noltlo Count Agent
(or Kdvr. 1. Allli Co.' Klour Mill Machinery. Kuroka drain CIciiiiIiik Machinery, and Genuln.
Dulour Poltlni; Cloth. All kinds of Special Iron Work and CanlliiK inadu to order. Iteptlr
work douo promptly. Flour Mill ltolla ro-Krouud and recorrui;tcd.
Ottton Hint VVorkm Cor. Konrtomttli unit Niirt)irii St,, rnrtlnml, Or.
L. M. PARISH.
NOTAIIV POHt.IC.
GEO. E. WATKINS.
Parrish & Watkins
REAL ESTATE, HOUSE,
Loans and Fire Insurance
Agents for Lancashire Insurance Co
No. 246 Washington Street
ItentH Mint llo Paid In Advance PORTLAND, OR.
r. rrNriuv. than Let. a robihjo
i I y- Lk fc mt V r :
OrcRon Phono Orant 311. Colunvbtn Ph no t50i.
lot) Flrit fltroot
First -You Want a Good Suit
.x.
re
Second-You Want a Cheap Suit
The two are combined before you have a
perfect bargain Our
Smoke - Damaged, High -Class Clothing
Affords the greatest opportunity of the season
to the purchaser of
Men's or Boy's Clothing or Furnishings
Note the prices in our show windows.
Tne
DR,e3.
Front
269-271 Morrison St., bet. Third and Fourth.
id
" -"9mimmmMt
b: