t?wj" mvtrttsutKmifTvfr- S. . THE NEW AE, PORTLAND. OTtEaQ-N". r! I PLEATS FOR SKIRTS. ABSOLUTE REIGN OF SHEATH SKIRT IS OVER. flio Newest Cloth Drcnsct Are Com binations In Which Bilk mid Velvet Appear The New l'uttiio Velvet utiil "Wlitit It la UhciI Tor. Ktw Vork corroipondonce: jltlOIIT BchemltiB Ih llppilMUIt ill tllO Ill'WUHt olotll (ltl'SS- L'H. It lOOliH IIH IT ilcslcni'i'M were con viiK'L'd Hint women linvc planned to ro tnln cloth In IIh ro- tout place of favor. Ko to outwit them wcic IciiiIIiik' tliuin Ki'itdiiiilly bark to HilkH and satliiH. Tin- cloth and nilk Kiiwii may lie con Hidurod n.s olio lure. It was ho quickly miceeudcd by the in ore Hrasonable cloth and velvet rltf that it hardly made the ninrk it deserv ed, The combina tion with velvet itntt taken hold belter, and ltn latest do Tclopinent Ih away from Its ordinal sim plicity of Hellenic The coIoih have be come brighter and richer, and what vvna Jyj Y 1 i imw k 4 f JT White In gowni th& XrennmHket's aim lit to avoid an appearance of too great (dimness, Iouk coats oectu to be planned for the opposite purpose. Empire coats more or less like the one shown hero arc abundant, and In any of them a wom an looks as though she could slip through a knot hole. Frequently their effect is to build out the bust outline in pouter pigeon fashion, and when all the promi nence of straight cilt Is accomplished a generously knotted scarf and a series of ends accentuates this. With all this the sides seem straight from under the arms down. All sorts of modifications on the plain Empire sides and front are shown In the latets cloaks. The model pictur ed willi Its straps set from the arm holes forward to Just under the bust, the ends of the straps llnished with pleated chif fon, was very pretty. Fringe has Anally been accepted with a vengeance. The material Is dlflleuit to wenr and to keep in order, especially Is It trying at the back of a dress. This was known by the designer of the pic tured dress Hint was fringe trimmed. It was taffeta covered with a heavy corded net and the net set about the front and sides of the skirt, disappear ing under the back box pleat, which nar rowed to nothing at the waist and spread towards the hem. The bodice was cover ed with the net, the fringe falling in front over nn under plastron, Such a dress appears delicate and Is very dressy, but If the net Is of good qunllty and the fringe Is tightly twisted silk cord, the wearing qualities will be satisfactory. GoMiis like the four put in the Inst of to-day's Illustrations are especially In teresting because it is Intended that they shall be suitable next spring. They 3 BHa 513 fflw tit; THUKH LATH DEVELOPMENTS. at first only a simple heading has come to be trimming of almost any degree of delicacy. In all these arrangements Is one rhiirnelerlslle a glimpse of some thing plain through a surface finish of fluff or of elaborate embioldery, this in stead of the billowing out of under frills. The Initial picture hIiows a model gown finished In this manner. It was gnu metal gray oxford cloth, with yuko plas tron and skirt trimming of violet punno Ychet. A finish of chenille applique per mitted tile velvet to Hliow tlirollgll. I'auue velvet is a lovely material, as llo.v llile as satin, Willi all tlie beauty of ii tin and el vet combined. It is an lin rroM'inent on mirror velvet, which has Won deemed the limit of artistic effort In its wn.. It Is a characteristic of these new styles, loo, to relieve the quiet effect of the goods by a color of consid erable brightness about the throat. An extension of (lie blighter color to the bolt lb usual, because oI,ch have boon fash ionable ho long that there is small chance for novelty in the yoke finish alone. A radical change is coming over skirts, and It Is not improbable (hut by next iqirlug the nile will bo. Put pleats In it. Already the very slender woman should not wear a sheath or a tight skirt. She may be as modish and milch more becom ingly dressed In a lm pleated skirt, the are the very last of the dresses made for wear without wraps, and of course no sensible woman would invest In such for the little wear that can be gotten out of them this year. Those four are repre sentative of all their class In respect to their skirts. That is, the single skirt Is seen only on the strict tailor dress, and even thou st Itching or a front fastening will break the simplicity. A long over dress showing only a line at the hem of the underskirt is a good choice. Such an overdioss appears to fasten at the side or down the front, and the fastening is finished with straps or stitching. Often the fastening appears to be continued above the bolt. Skirts are not as close as they weie. A back pleat or a little collection of them is usual. Except for the always absolutely plain strict tailor, the bodice is Invariably open to Home ex tent in front, either to show a smart fresh yoke with a jaunty tie, a waist coat attachment, nil under plastron or a sot-in tint front. The round bodice, seeming to fasten along the same line as the overdress, the Jaekot appearing to open oer a front or a waistcoat, the lilt imI bodice showing a waistcoat plas tron, the blouse laced together loosely to show an under bodice, the little coat ap parently intended to button but lot fly free, all these are good models for the. PLANNED TO HOLD OVKlt. pleats arranged to spread a little at the loot. Those skills are Jut appearing and are sine to bo welcomed. Then' nre many women whom the habit tklrt docs not become and not a few who will not wear It an how. One form In which the other is found nppcaia lioio. In a loss proiumui il tpc the pleats are replaced by louglh Uo tucks running the entile length of the skirt. These skirts are worth study, fur while the sheath skirt W attractive over a louudcd and n not too plump tig ure, MiuiireneKs and corners are deplora ble when thus betiayed, Above the belt, ton, this gown hail Its trick for the thin woman. That was in setting buttons alternately on the edge of the bodice, passing ribbon velvet in some bright color Around them and mi lacing the bodice orrr under plastron and yoke. The only test to be made for this is the mutter of fcrcomiugucbii; Its stylishness U sound. street cloth. While some of these dresses are made of taffeta, most of them nre both. Woolly oxfords In the mi Mil dark grays clashed in general as gun-metal color are in great favor, ('nmel's hair, mixtures In tweed and cheviot and broad cloth in heavy qualities are all used. Fin ishing of stltihlng, of applique, of pleat ing and strapping are In vogue. Hrald lug in contrasting color still holds, bands embroidered cloth or of perforated doth are among the novelties, and cashmere bauds In Persian colors ure a lute cry. Copyright, 1SW. A Shnrp .lotion. When n woman cuts a ninu'a qualutanco alio looks daggers at hlni. CurnuoU Monl nmilo of corn cobs ground U used to adulterate many food products. The end in view In pultlnr on the mrkcl 1 good whls key at CYRUS NOBLE li educational. Wc wlh you to find out exactly what It It. W are convinced that we put up the best poulblc whlikey at the price. We with to leach you how good, how much tuptrlor It It to other brandt. We can do this only by having you draw your own comparison!. Try them alii give them all a fair thow and we are almost certain we will gain your patronage. We'll gain It becaute CYRUS NOBLE It ludged bit by the grcatett number of people by the mott tkeplleal by the connoltteur. There are reatont why tU yean In wood distilled from selected grain 70 years' experience In distilling behind It. Why shouldn't It be good? 1 J. VAN Slllll X CO. (IHCDRrORlTEO) ...Agents... PORTLAND - OREGON NERVOUS DISEASES - jWiJ.Ib' f'7 - &$,,,,,tn '' 8. Chase, President. J. T. dove, Manager Phono Ited 1591. Montana Metallurgical Works. (Incorporated.) SAMI'MNO, ASSAYING. AND WO I? KING TK&'IS OK OIIKS OF A Ma KINDS. flmnll lots of High grade ores bought, (iold mid silver rcllned or bought, , Mnclilncry for gninpllng, etc. Special facili ties for inciting, refilling nnd teats. Chnrgcs: Ores, alloys, etc.: (Iold I1.M1 Hlllca I 2.50 Silver i.mi (Iold and Silver 2.W I-ead l.M t'opper m l.W Zinc 2.W) Iron l.fiu l.ltne JUKI Retorting Amalgam l.M) Platinum ft.00 lllsmuth fi.UO lTc'crncoi on application. MmiKiuieo 6 00 Tin fi.00 Colmlt 1(1.00 Nickel 6.00 Mercury fi.00 Arsenic 5.00 .Sulphur 3.00 Mngncsln 3.00 Phosphorus.- 5.00 Antimony 5.00 92 First Street 1'OIITI.ANI), OKKOON TTKUDUIIT A. HAM:, Mt. Hood, Columbia Hlvcr nnd Northwest Views. Portraits, Water Colors, Crayons, for the trndo. Klectrlc Light nnd llroinldc Kiilarecinents. 132 jTlilnl Street, Comer Alder. PORTLAND, OUR. WOOD The cheapest nnd best In Portland. Slab Wood.-Creein or Dry. INSIDE WOOD A SPECIALTY Oregon 'Phone Main 353 Columbia 'Phone 373 STOREY-KERN FUEL CO. ANN ARBOR .HOME BAKERY. One of the most complete bakcrys In the Northwest. Bakes the Bost Pullman Bread In the West M. SHIELDS, Prop. 347 Morrison St. l'OltTI.ANI), OK. And 193 Union Avenue, comer Sacramento, A 11)1 tin. Home-Hindu, bread, cakes ami pies. United beans ami llostmi Drown llrcnd every Hatuiday. Tel. Ked 1812; Tel. Itod 311. FALL I FASHIONS IN- iiiHATwiii AT ANY PRICE almost you wish. We guaran tee the quality of every hat. HiiiiiiNH BUFFUM & PEINDUBTOIN Exoluslvo Furnlsnerfr Solo Agents for Knox and Wnrburton Hnts. Third and Stark Streets, Opposite Chamber of Oominoroo. Aro very Konorul, owing to modern Imliits of living. Tito norvori nru ofton ovortuxutl nnd laws of liuulth violated. TonicH irrituto tlio nyHtuin nnd tirgo tho nurvurt to tiuim titrul excitement, like the whip to the iiorM). Tho ono restful, yet invigorating, remedy is olectriulty. Tho Dr. Sanden Electric Belt Kostoroa tint animal magnetism, rcclmrgcH tho nervo llhor, tho glandH and tlio Wood with vitalism. For all ain and weaknosrt thin trcatmont has great Kodativo and Htrengthoning force. It in especially adapted to l'aral vhJh and Organic DitsordorH, to Uterine and Nervous Troubles in Women, to Varicocele and Dobillty in Mon. Tho action of my now treatment is comforting nnd huh taining. My "Tlirco Classo-i of Men," free for tho asking. DR. A. T. SANDEN llowarnof Klectrlc Melt frauds trading up on lay III) yearn reputation. Their names can bo hHil upon application to any of my olives. Russel Building, Cor. Fourth and Morrison Sts. Olllce Hours: 0 to C; Sunday, 10 to 1, Kutriiiico un Fourth St. Second Floor SSiriV'i-Jk D .fl n fSAW ENGINES BOILERS RUSSELL High Grade Machinery SAW MILLS THRESHERS STICKERS RUSSELL & CO. Write for Catalogue and Prices. PORTLAND, OREGON. DRINK THE FAMOUS A eiia-bistrca." s FOR SALE AT ALL THE PRINCIPAL SALOONS BREWERY AND OFFICE, " TftO?oRo"Ba J?K?.' 8t' PORTLAND IRON WORKS Manufacture otMiirlno and Stationary Engine and Ilnllor, Raw Milt, Flouring Mill anC MlnltiK MHOhlnery, HlmttliiR, I In aire rn, Piillo). Hproekuts and Qearluq. I'noltlo Count Agent (or Kdvr. 1. Allli Co.' Klour Mill Machinery. Kuroka drain CIciiiiIiik Machinery, and Genuln. Dulour Poltlni; Cloth. All kinds of Special Iron Work and CanlliiK inadu to order. Iteptlr work douo promptly. Flour Mill ltolla ro-Krouud and recorrui;tcd. Ottton Hint VVorkm Cor. Konrtomttli unit Niirt)irii St,, rnrtlnml, Or. L. M. PARISH. NOTAIIV POHt.IC. GEO. E. WATKINS. Parrish & Watkins REAL ESTATE, HOUSE, Loans and Fire Insurance Agents for Lancashire Insurance Co No. 246 Washington Street ItentH Mint llo Paid In Advance PORTLAND, OR. r. rrNriuv. than Let. a robihjo i I y- Lk fc mt V r : OrcRon Phono Orant 311. Colunvbtn Ph no t50i. lot) Flrit fltroot First -You Want a Good Suit .x. re Second-You Want a Cheap Suit The two are combined before you have a perfect bargain Our Smoke - Damaged, High -Class Clothing Affords the greatest opportunity of the season to the purchaser of Men's or Boy's Clothing or Furnishings Note the prices in our show windows. Tne DR,e3. Front 269-271 Morrison St., bet. Third and Fourth. id " -"9mimmmMt b: