Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (May 19, 2022)
Along Willapa Bay FAR LEFT: Wooden artwork, seen outside the historic Tokeland Hotel. A road trip full of history BY DAVID CAMPICHE Jim Tweedie, a friend, was a pastor for many decades and has recently retired. A good storyteller, I wish I had caught a few of his sermons. I suppose I have indirectly a time or two. With a surgery coming up soon, Jim sug- gested a short drive toward Westport, a day’s journey around the north side of Wil- lapa Bay in Washington. We thought about exploring Tokeland and beyond, maybe Washaway Beach. Jim and I are united by poetry. Together we once published a book of poems and photographs called “Sidekicks.” Maybe that title says it all. Jim writes, plays his own music and has self-published more than a dozen books and written as many musical scores. A few years ago, Jim took a photo of a tribal canoe journey, one he later wished to donate. The talented Tony Johnson, chair- man of the Chinook Indian Nation, had carved a long, elegant cedar canoe, a mas- terwork. We then detoured to Bay Center, a quiet backwater east of Willapa Bay that was once a community center for the Chi- nook. There, Jim gifted the canoe photo and we later took a few more pictures of the harbor. The sun was in full regalia and we quickly passed an hour exploring. The bay was alive in all its glory. There is a work- man’s cafe that specializes in oysters. We passed by this morning, pushing north, already missing the sublime, briny taste of the fresh Willapa Bay oysters. We drove through South Bend and Ray- mond and turned west on state Route 105. On an inspiration, we stopped by the Camenzind farm and visited with an old friend, Eleanor. Memories flooded though my mind, of coffee with Joe, of his big, warm heart and farmer’s wisdom that gener- ally carried the day. At the end of that visit, a brace of fat mallards swung from my belt. Wind storms often bled over the Willapa like a page from a novel. Here I recall the best of times with my brother and father. Tokeland is such a picturesque setting, a named after Chief Toke. Today the weather and the vista toward Leadbetter Point on the north end of the Long Beach Penin- sula was nothing short of magical. Cumulus clouds rolled across the sky, seabirds flew by and a fair northwest wind shuffled the tide and sky. We visited with Johnson’s daughter, Mary Raven, at the Shoalwater Bay Tribal LEFT: Boats sit at a marina near Westport in Washington. Photos by David Campiche Community Library and Heritage Museum. She is sharp woman with her ancestors’ dark eyes, rich with stories about her people, the resourceful Chinook, master traders, sailors and fishermen of the coast. We stopped for lunch at the Tokeland Hotel, a historic legacy from the end of the 19th century. I love this place, and a lunch of eggs benedict with crab pleased me to no end. Fresh Dungeness crab always carries the day. Jim’s fish sandwich brought a wide smile to his face. We asked for a tour of the old building and were pleased to see the tasteful rooms. Owning and operating the Shelburne Inn in Seaview for 42 years exerted a particular bias for the Victorian era. I would certainly advocate an overnight adventure to this his- toric hotel. I was charmed. We left with a bag of homemade cookies and munched all the way to Westport. We stopped at Washaway Beach and dis- covered that indeed, true to its name, the beach was washing away at an alarming rate. Jim is more skeptical than I about the effects of climate change, but one couldn’t ignore the reality of rising seawater. West- port is a favorite destination for both com- mercial and weekend salmon fishermen. Like the fishing havens at Ilwaco and Asto- ria, the waterscape is also photographer’s mecca. Here, a few brave boys dove from the docks into the cold spring water, frolick- ing like seals until pressed to retreat. On a mostly windless day, the fleet rested peacefully on the still waters. These boats, skippers and crews certainly know the real- ity of winter storms blistering the Pacific. Decades ago, my son Dustin fished these waters, and further north in the Bering Sea, transforming him into a tough and resolute seaman. I napped on the return trip, but the flood of memories continued to dance in my head. North Coast Comedy Night Get Ready to Laugh! Three Performers! One Night of Fun!! Saturday, May 21 8:00 pm All Seats $10 21+ over Buy your tickets today! Online or at the Box Office. www.libertyastoria.org Headliner: Monica Nevi One of the Pacific Northwest’s premier comedic talents – she’ll have you rolling with laughter! Feature Act: Adam Pasi An absolute fixture on the Oregon comedy scene, and a treat for audiences everywhere. Host: Drew Wilson-McGrath Downtown Astoria’s historic Liberty Theatre was made for music, dance, theatre, readings, film, comedy, children’s programs – and you! 1203 Commercial Street | Astoria, OR 97103 | 503.325.5922 | www.libertyastoria.org THURSDAY, MAY 19, 2022 // 13
