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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (July 4, 2019)
12 // COASTWEEKEND.COM
Chefs, restaurants, reviews, recipes,
culinary events & foodie features
to the Long Beach Peninsula
Dutch-born chef delights in everything Italian
By PATRICK WEBB
FOR COAST WEEKEND
Dutch chef cooking Italian-in-
spired food in an American
That’s the international combination
that has come to the north end of the
Long Beach Peninsula in Ocean Park.
When Paul Klitsie was growing up
in Holland he developed a liking for all
When he encountered a man who
wanted to open a restaurant in the
United States, it changed his life.
He emigrated to Portland in 1998 and
operated the restaurant there until 2013.
A while later, he opened his own restau-
rant, Willem’s on Main, in the historic
downtown of Vancouver, Wash., which
he ran until February 2018.
Love of ocean, Italian food
Klitsie and his wife Kathy Janke,
who designed the interior decor, like
the ocean so the Peninsula was a natural
choice for their next venture, MyCov-
ios, which opened earlier this year.
The unusual name is an amalgam of
their grandchildren’s names.
Klitsie was born in The Netherlands’
port city of Rotterdam then moved to
the capital Amsterdam.
He has worked in the food industry
all his career.
When asked, “Why Italian?” he
smiled. “Go to Italy and figure it out!”
“I like Italian food, cars and fash-
ion,” he added. “Anything that’s from
Italy has a claim on me.
When it came time for me to choose,
the majority of the guys at cooking
school went to French. I went right
when everyone else went left.”
Being chef-owner of a restaurant
that caters to visitors but has a regular
local clientele is his ideal arrangement.
“It’s hard work, but there’s a big
advantage — you don’t have a boss,” he
laughed. “The reward for me is . . . that
it’s just what I like to do. I like results
fast; I am that kind of guy. I like to
work with food, it’s very versatile.”
Mycovios has limited tables and res-
ervations are not taken.
A comfortable lounge offers the hun-
gry somewhere to wait if the restaurant
The dinner menu features appetizers
including bruschetta, Caesar or mixed
green salads, a risotto featuring scal-
lops, or spaetzli (Swiss-German style
pasta) with crab.
Main dishes include braised ribs
with penne rigate (furrowed pasta), a
couple of versions of spaghetti, and
three substantial plates featuring pork
loin piccata Milanese (in lemon juice
and butter), a New York steak with a
whiskey-honey sauce, or seared rockfish
on a bed of spinach.
All are available to take out.
There are also multiple, varied
Two beers on draft are Buoy Beer
Co. Czech Pils and North Jetty Leadbet-
ter Red Scottish Ale.
Italian wines predominate, plus a
Northwest pinot noir, chardonnay and a
riesling, all by bottle or glass.
The restaurant switches gears on the
weekend, serving brunch offerings fea-
turing bread pudding French toast, waf-
fles, pulled pork with country potatoes,
risotto with sausage, eggs benedict and
For the dinners, Klitsie is especially
proud of his braised beef; when he eats
Patrick Webb photos
Chef and owner Paul Klitsie prepares some pasta at his restaurant MyCovios in Ocean Park,
Wash. Behind him helping is server Matthew Sites. The restaurant offers Italian dishes in an
intimate setting near the ocean on the Long Beach Peninsula.
The chocolate lava cake is light with a soft
exterior and even softer center, served with
a warmed raspberry compote and cream.
Main entrees at MyCovios include braised
ribs, spaghetti, pork loin, a New York steak or
rockfish (pictured). This is lightly pan seared
and served on a bed of garlic spinach with an
unobtrusive sauce antiboise, which combines
onion, olive, parsley, garlic, tomato, orange
and lemon zest, olive oil and apple cider.
IF YOU GO
elsewhere, he always checks out how
He has the inevitable challenge
of keeping in fresh shellfish and the
knowledge that he is far from replace-
ment supplies if he runs out of anything.
“The only thing I buy is canned
tomatoes,” he said. “Everything else is
made in-house. It doesn’t have time to
get old.” CW
1311 Bay Ave., Ocean Park, Wash.
Dinner: 4:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday,
Thursday and Sunday; 4:30 p.m. to
9 p.m., Friday and Saturday.
Brunch: 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday and
No reservations. Take-out available.
360-642-347 or MyCovios.com