Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (April 16, 2015)
First, let me make this plea: read. A star rating is almost meaningless when detached from the written review. Submitted image Submitted photo boiled egg containing a semi-formed duck to explore from the farms to the docks, to HPEU\R7KHQ DJDLQ FDWFK PH RQ WKH ULJKW the greenhouses and berry patches, from the day and I just might. I appreciate that food smokehouses, butchers and canneries to the can be comforting as well as adventurous, many burgeoning breweries and distilleries. and am inspired by writers like Anthony As well as how food tastes, what it costs I grew up in a house of meat and potatoes, Bourdain and Jonathan Gold, who chose the and where it comes from, I want to explore the product of unadventurous eaters. As a path less traveled. KRZLWPDNHVXVIHHO7KLVFRXOGWDNHPDQ\ child I was insufferably picky. I remember, on I don’t have any rules, per se, but I aspire forms, such as experimenting with different countless occasions, kicking and screaming to always be improving — learning to eat diets and keeping a diary of the results. at the table, locked in wars of will with my better, both ethically and in regard to my own But I’m getting ahead of myself — the mother over whether or not I would eat my health. Mouth of the Columbia will remain primar- peas. Sometimes they lasted hours, and gen- As well as assessing taste, value and expe- LO\ D VRXUFH RI UHVWDXUDQW UHYLHZV 7R WKDW erally, I lost. rience, I plan to produce a column that places end, I would be remiss not to talk a little Upon leaving the nest, my tastes began food and restaurants within the greater con- about the ratings system. to broaden. I fell in love with sushi and be- WH[WRIWKH&ROXPELD3DFL¿F First, let me make this plea: read. A gan scouring the cases of Greek delis. After We live in a region star rating is almost trying “tikka masala” I yearned for it, then of richness and abun- meaningless when learned to make curries from scratch. I am dance, where forag- detached from the delighted by not only the nourishing rainbow ers comb the forest written review. For of Ethiopian “wat” but the social, communal ÀRRU IDUPHUV JURZ instance, a place nature of “injera.” vegetables, ranchers PLJKW KDYH WHUUL¿F My taste and experience embraces high raise livestock, and food, but a terrible DQGORZ,¶YHVSHQWQLJKWVLQWKH¿QHVWVWHDN ¿VKHUPDQ ÀRDW WKH price, and perhaps houses and, for weeks on end, been too broke neighboring sea. you’re happy to pay to buy a street taco. As such, I’m acutely 7R WKDW HQG , it. Or maybe a par- aware of value. hope to take this ticular restaurant is I’m an omnivore. I eat everything except column beyond the worth visiting for Submitted photo one standout dish cilantro. (I’m one of the genetically predis- table, to learn from SRVHGZKR¿QGLWWDVWHVPRUHDNLQWRVRDS the many producers Chicken tikka masala is an Indian curry dish. The sauce includes while the rest are I’ll try anything, except maybe “balut” (a in our midst. I seek tomoatoes and a mix of spices. simply middling. “He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise.” — Henry David Thoreau I 14 | April 16, 2015 | coastweekend.com Wat, an Ethiopian stew or curry, is traditionally eaten with in- jera, a spongy fl atbred usually made with teff fl our. A diner often eats this dish as part of a group who share a communal bowl and basket of injera. 7KHUHDUHMXVWWRRPDQ\PXOWLWXGHVRIWDVWH experience and value that stars cannot en- compass. ,PXVWDOVRDGG¿YHVWDUUHYLHZVZLOOEH very rare. I intend to save them for the ab- solute cream of the crop. A three-star review will generally be a place worth returning to. On the low end, unlike my predecessor, I will indeed publish one-and-two-star reviews. I feel, as a service to readers, it’s my duty. I would also very much like to invite you to this conversation. Write me at mouth@ GDLO\DVWRULDQFRP 7HOO PH ZKDW \RX OLNH what you don’t, what you appreciate, and where I’ve gone wrong. Also, tell me where I should go, and what I should try. If you’re opening a new restaurant, tell me that too, as well as if you’re creating a seasonal menu, or trying something new. On my end, I vow to be honest, fair and act, above all, in service to local readers. I’ll do my best to minimize mistakes, but I come to you today with hat in hand: I know I still have so much yet to learn — which is exactly what makes embarking on this new adventure so exciting. I hope you’ll come along. Humbly yours, 7KH0RXWK
