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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (March 6, 2015)
3C THE DAILY ASTORIAN • FRIDAY, MARCH 6, 2015 Cooking WHAT’S GOURMET RECIPES FROM LOCAL CHEFS JOSHUA BESSEX — The Daily Astorian Chef Richard Vogelsang at the Cannon Beach Café. 5LFK9RJHOVDQJ¿QGVKLVSODFHDWWKH&DQQRQ%HDFK&DIp By RICH VOGELSANG For The Daily Astorian CANNON BEACH —I’m not from WKH3DFL¿F1RUWKZHVWLI,ZDV,SUREDEO\ ZRXOGKDYHGRQHWKLQJVDORWGLIIHUHQWO\ LQP\OLIH,¶PIURPD6RXWKHUQ&DOLIRU- QLDJKHWWRFDOOHG,QJOHZRRG$IWHUJUDG- XDWLQJ KLJK VFKRRO , WUDYHOHG DOO RYHU OHDUQLQJ HYHU\WKLQJ , FRXOG DERXW WKDW SODFH ,ZRUNHGLQNLWFKHQVDOORYHUWKH86 OHDUQLQJHYHU\DVSHFWRIWKHUHVWDXUDQWLQ- GXVWU\WKHVFKRRORIKDUGNQRFNV$IWHU PDQ\\HDUVRQWKHURDG,VRUWRIVHWWOHG ²RUPD\EHJRWVWXFNLQ²/DV9HJDV 7KLVVKRXOGKDYHEHHQDJUHDWPRYHIRU PHZLWK/DV9HJDVKDYLQJVXFKDGLYHUVH YDULHW\ RI IRRG DQG FXOLQDU\ DUWLVWV$OO RIWKRVHFRUSRUDWHUXQNLWFKHQVZHUHQRW IRUPHVR,WULHGRSHQLQJP\RZQSODFH ZKHUH , WKRXJKW , ZRXOG EH DEOH WR GR ZKDW , ZDQW %XW P\ LQYHVWRUV WKRXJKW GLIIHUHQWO\ ,WWRRNPRYLQJWRWKH3DFL¿F1RUWKZHVW WRUHDOO\FRPHLQWRP\RZQ,WZDVRQWKH 2UHJRQ&RDVWZKHUH,PHWDQGZRUNHGXQ- GHUWKHFKHIZKRWDXJKWPHWKHPRVWDERXW IRRG5\DQ+DPLFDWWKH1HKDOHP5LYHU ,QQ7KHUHVWDXUDQWZDVVPDOOEXWHOHJDQW DQGUXQOLNHDZHOORLOHGPDFKLQHQHYHU DKLFFXS $IWHUWKH,QQFORVHG,IRXQGWKH&DQ- QRQ %HDFK &DIp DQG &ODXGLD DQG 3LHUUH 7RXWDLQ'RUEHF7KH\JDYHPHWKHFKDQFH WRGRZKDW,ZDQWHGDQGVKRZFDVHP\YHU- VLRQRIFXOLQDU\JHQLXV ,FRQVLGHUP\VHOIDPDGVFLHQWLVWLQWKH FXOLQDU\ZRUOG,ZDQWWRSXWWKLQJVWRJHWK- HUWKDWDUHQRWVXSSRVHGWREHWRJHWKHUEXW PDNH LW ZRUN DQG WDVWH VSHFWDFXODU ,¶P WU\LQJWRFUHDWHDSODFHWKDWFDWHUVWRHYHU\- RQHIURPWKHWRWDOFDUQLYRUH75H[WRWKH VWULFWYHJDQ$OVRYHJHWDULDQVJOXWHQIUHH DQGGDLU\LQWROHUDQW,¶PFUHDWLQJDSODFH IRUDOOWKHVHSHRSOHWRFRPHDQGHQMR\DQG JHW WKH VDWLVIDFWLRQ RI KDYLQJ D IDEXORXV GLQLQJ H[SHULHQFH ,¶P XVLQJ DOO RUJDQLF SURGXFHPRVWO\IURPORFDO2UHJRQ&RDVW IDUPVDQGJHWP\SURWHLQVIURPIDUPVWKDW QHYHUXVHKRUPRQHVDQGDOZD\VUDLVHWKHLU DQLPDOV KXPDQHO\ 7KLV SUDFWLFH LV D ELW PRUHFRVWO\EXWZRUWKHYHU\SHQQ\ 2UHJRQ DQG LWV VZHHW VZHHW UDLQ EURXJKWPHWRDEHWWHUSODFH7KHUDLQLV ZK\,OLYHKHUH,¶PDELWRIDSOXYLRSKLOH 7KHNH\WRPDNLQJWKLVUHFLSHRUDQ\ UHFLSHIRUWKDWPDWWHULVIUHVKLQJUHGLHQWV DQGWLPLQJEHFDXVHIRRGZDLWVIRUQRRQH 5LVRWWR LV HDVLO\ SUHSDUHG EXW MXVW DV HDV\WRVFUHZXSVRDOZD\VNHHS\RXUH\H RQLW $QG WKH UHDVRQ , XVHG WKLV UHFLSH LV EHFDXVH , ZDQWHG WR VKRZFDVH WKH ORFDO IDUHZLWKD(XURSHDQÀDUHWKDW,KDYHEHHQ ZRUNLQJRQVLQFH,VSHQGDWOHDVWDPRQWK RUWZRLQ(XURSHHYHU\\HDU,WKLQNWKDWP\ IDYRULWHSODFHLQWKHZRUOGLV%HUOLQIRUWKH UHDVRQWKDWHYHU\RQHLQWKDWFLW\LVDEVROXWH- O\RXWRIWKHLUPLQGDQG,¿WULJKWLQ Black Cod with Smoked Oyster Panzanella and a Lemon-scented Parmesan Risotto Risotto 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 cups Arborio (Italian short- grain) rice 1/2 of a yellow onion, finely diced 1 tablespoon garlic 1 cup white wine 2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon lemon zest JOSHUA BESSEX — The Daily Astorian The black cod with a smoked oyster panzanella and 1 cup Parmesan cheese a lemon-scented Parmesan risotto at the Cannon Salt and pepper to taste Beach Café. Fresh herb blend (Italian parsley and thyme finely chopped) Risotto preparation Heat a large sauce pan, add the olive oil and rice, stir frequently with a wooden spoon until lightly toasted — about 5 minutes. Add the white wine, stir once, then let sim- mer until liquid is almost evaporated. Simultaneously, when you put the large sauce pan on, put a sauce pan with your stock on high heat, bring to a boil, then turn to low. Once the wine is almost evaporated, start ladling the stock into the rice, one ladle at a time and wait until the liquid is almost evaporated, then add another ladle; repeat until the rice is done. To test for the rice for doneness, put a kernel of rice on a cutting board and press down on it with your thumb. If it is done, it will break into four equal pieces. When done, place the risotto in a shallow cake pan, level the rice across the pan, then refrigerate. Once cooled, and you are ready for it, heat a sauté pan on high and put in the risotto and add 1/4 cup of the heavy cream per serving to the pan. Add fresh herbs along with salt and pepper to taste. Once the liquid is almost evaporated and the risotto is the consistency you would like, add the lemon zest and Parmesan. Then you are ready to serve. Panzanella and fish 1/4 cup celery, finely chopped 1/4 cup shallot, finely chopped 4 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice, divided 1 teaspoon lemon peel, grated 1/4 cup canned smoked oysters, minced 5 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 cup panko, toasted 1 pound black cod filets, skin on Fresh herb blend (Italian parsley and thyme finely chopped) Salt and pepper to taste Panzanella and fish preparation Toss celery shallot, herbs, 1 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, lemon zest and smoked oysters in a medium bowl. Salt and pepper to taste. Then combine butter, herb blend and 3 tablespoons lemon juice in a small sauce pan. Whisk over low heat until butter melts and sauce simmers, season with salt and pepper and remove from heat. Melt 2 ta- blespoons butter in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Season fish with salt and pepper and place fish in the skillet, skin-side down. Cook until the skin is crisp, then flip — about 5 minutes. Drizzle lemon butter sauce over the fish. Stir toasted panko into the celery mixture. Place the risotto on a plate, then the fish, skin-side down, and spoon the panko celery mixture onto the fish to serve. W hile other n ew spa pers give you less, The D a ily Astoria n GIVES YOU M ORE O u r n ew C APITAL B UREAU covers the sta te for you From left: Peter W on g, H illa ry Borru d , M a teu sz Perk ow sk i
