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About Oregon City courier. (Oregon City, Or.) 1902-1919 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1907)
emsassmism 'he . Woman's Home Page We Can Make Every Little Girl in America Happy Let Us Make You Happy Mar jorie Dane's Patterns and Consulting Dressmaker's Bureau TE DO Y The dress that can be worn with or without the guimpe as the clay Is cooler or wanner Is ( the one that Is certain to be- In demand during the summer months and here Is an exceedingly at tractive model. In the Illustration It Is made of rale blue French Bingham trimmed with broad bands of white em broidery, but it Is appropriate for lin en, French pique, for Madras, and even for the thinner washable fabrics quite as well as for the gingham. The little Btilmpe should be of white lawn what ever the material of tne dress and Is entirely separate. Banding of any sort can be used for trimming and a still simpler effect can be obtained by omitting the band at the centre front, which is arranged over the box plait. The dress itself Is made with front and back portions, which are plaited and Joined to a narrow yoke. There Is a box plait at the centre front and the centre back with outward-turning plaits at the sides and there are ad ditional inverted plaits In the skirt portion at the underarm seams that provide necessary fulness. The sleeves can be left open at their outer edges or closed and simply trimmed with banding as may be liked. The guimpe is a simple one, made with front and backs and bishop sleeves. The quantity of material required for the medium size (8 years) Is 4 yards 27, 3V4 yards 36 or 24 yards 44 Inches wide with 4V4 yards of banding and 1V4 yards 38 Inches wide for the guimpe. The pattern 6373 Is cut In sizes for girls of 4, 6, 8 and 10 years of age. Boys blouse: bius. Such a simple blouse as this one Is always in demand for active boys. The supply Is never too big and as all gar ments of the sort are noted for the ease and rapidity with which they re quire renewing, fresh ones make an ever constant need. The model illus Miss -Dane's Answers to Perplexed Dear Miss Dane: I have 12 yards of foulard, 24 Inches wide, like sample enclosed. I fear I have made a poor selection, as I have dark brown hair and eyes, and am quite dark, with no color. I am 24 years old, 5 feet 7J4 inches tall, waist 26, bust 32, hips 37, weigh 130; how is my proportion? Would you kind ly tell me just how to make dress so as to make me appear shorter? I prefer having a Jumper. If trim mings is required, please state what kind, and what kind of waist shall I wear with it? Please state what colors will best become me. N. . L. Green Is not particularly kind to dark colorless people, still the little dot Is an agreeable relief, and then, as you wish a Jumper style, this will, of course, keep the color entirely away from the face. The most becoming skirt model that Is appropriate to tho material Is that In double effect. The upper one taken Into the belt with small tucks ending at about knee In a hem nnd tucks, the lower skirt arranged in exactly the five tasty mays Afternoon Ten. The pretty custom of afternoon tea, borrowed by Americans from their English cousins, Is always an agent for sociability. The hostess has her cups spread on a convenient table, the kettle Is boiling over on an alcohol lamp, and in a teaball she has the tea. When she desires to serve a cup she holds the teaball in a cup and pours over It the boiling water, holding the ball In the cup until the tea Is the desired strength. This Is the easiest way of all to maker tea and it insures a freshly steeped cup to each guest. If desired, however, the tea may be made by taking one small spoonful of tea to one cup of water; put the tea In the pot, have the water in the kettle on the fire; when It comes to a boll pour it on the tea and lot it stand to steep five minutes. Pour through a strainer to serve. If this stands for any length of time It becomes strong and rather bitter, so keep a pitcher of hot water at hand to dilute the cups poured out for extra comers. For English after noon tea It is customery to serve cream and sugar and little tea cakes or hot buttered scones. ItuxNlnn Ten. Make the tea In the pot as described above; put a lump of sugar In the cup. a slice of lemon and a dash of rum. Then pour on the tea, which should be of medium strength. Brenkfniit Tea for nn Invalid. Take a new laid egg and beat to a stiff froth in a small bowl; allow a small spoon of tea to a cup of boiling wajer, after the water has been poured on the leaves and the tea has steeped a few moments, strain, add a little cream and sugar; Rules That Should Be Observed in PublicBy Emily Holt Walking Arm In Arm, A lady, unless she is Infirm or elderly, does not lean upon the arm of a mas cullno escort when walking on the street by day. After nightfall, she may very properly accept this support. In doing so she places her hand, usually the left one, Just in the angle of his elbow; she does not hook her arm through his, as is too often the un graceful habit. When two women are escorted by one man at night, only one of them takes his arm; and the women walk side by side, not with their es cort between them. At night, a gentleman Invariably offers his arm when he sets out to es cort a lady. When escorting more than one at the same time, he does not offer to support one on either arm, but gives his arm to one only, the elder. At all times he walks on that side of a woman companion on which he can afford her the greatest protec tion from dangers or obstacles. Thus he may give her the right or left arm Indifferently. No habit Is in worse taste than that of too many well meaning men, of grasping a woman by the elbow to guide her awkwardly over every crossing and puddle; but quite as bad as this Is the practice of revers ing the proper order, and the man's trated Is made of one of the fine Imj ported percales which Is durable as well as handsome but it is quite ap propriate for linen and chambray, for cheviot and madras, for flannel, In deed, for every material that Is used for garments of the sort. There is a de tachable collar, which renders It doubly serviceable and there Is the patch pockets that no boy ever likes to be without. The blouse Is made with fronts and back. The front edge Is finished with a regulation box plait and the neck with a neck band to which the collar It attached. The sleeves are of the regulation sort, finished 'with straight cuffs. The quantity of material required for the medium size (8 years) is 2 yards same way and connected under the hem of the upper skirt. The Jumper could be inlaid In hori zontal tucks above the belt carrying out the skirt fleet, and be brought Into a bias band of the goods at the top, edging with a little knife pleated frill, also of the silk. Trim the slashed edges of the sleeves or the wide arm holes finished to match. The Jumper should be made as full as possi ble. The blouse may be of lingerie, neta or allover laco in a deep cream shade. Becoming colors are reds, yel low, orange, brown, tan, fawn, pale pink, light and dark blue, old rose, Ivoryand cream. Your year-old baby's frocks should be simply made, a small round yoke of fine tucking, fancy stitching and a little dainty embroid ery, the full long skirt, gathered to It, and either hemstitched on the bottom or else finished with a hem and tucks. The sleeves will be small bishop, con fined by band cuffs edged with a nar row, fine lace frill, the same finish be ing applied at the neck. You are a tall, slender figure. of Serving Cea then pour over the beaten egg and give the whole a few turns with the beater. Pour all out into a cup and serve. Chinese Ten. The fascination about Chinese tea Is the little bowls or cups without handles that It Is made and served in. The bowls hold as much as an ordinary tea cup; they sit 6n little metal saucers and have china covers, which are like inverted saucers. In the bowls a generous allowance of tea is put and then they are placed before you, together with other little cups, without saucers or covers or handles, and a pot of boiling water. Pour the boiling water on the tea leaves and let It steep a few moments, covered with the saucer-like cover. Then lift the bowl, which, of course, Is very hot, holding it between your thumb and second finger, the forefinger holding down the cover; then pour the tea Into the' tiny cup, from which you drink It without sugar, cream or any other sea soning. It requires considerable skill to pour from these bowls without spill ing and to hold the saucer down firmly enough to prevent any leaves escaping Into the cup. As soon as one cup of tea Is poured off, pour fresh hot water on the leaves and cover the bowl to let It steep again, and continue pouring and steeping and drinking until -' you have had enough. Reception Tea. For an afternoon af fair which is too large for the hostess to give the personal note In serving the tea, it is a pretty custom to pass the tea in little shallow cups with a can died cherry or a prserved strawberry in the bottom of the cup. thrusting his hand through the woman's arm. Boning. It Is the woman's privilege to bow first when meeting men acquaintances. In doing this, she bends her head slightly, looks directly at the person recognized, according him, at the same time, a slight smile or an amiable glance. However exalted her social po sition may be, a well-bred woman never fails to recognize, in all public places, by an amiable glance and bow, either those who serve her In any capacity or to whom she stands In the light of a patron. Young unmarried women usually wait to be recognized first by married women; but where there Is no question of difference in age or social position to be considered, who shall bow first Is a point of no importance. It is true that where a woman has been taken to call at a nouse, or has been Invited to a house through the good or fices of a friend of the hostess, sne should, on next meeting the lady uf the house, wait a little to receive a bow before offering one. A young lady takes the Initiative when she meets in the street a gentleman with whom she may have gone In to dinner or with whom she may have danced several 27 or 1 yards 36 Inches wide. The pattern 6612 is cut in sizes for boys of 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 years of age. Either pattern will be mailed to any address on receipt of ten cents by Mar lorle Dane, 44 East Twenty-third street, New York City. TO AVOID DELAY, DO NOT FAIL TO STATE SIZE OF PATTERN DESIRED. Correspondents Dear Miss Dane: I would like your advice how to make a silk coat or some kind of nice goods, somethings that's suitable for me. My bust measure Is 30, waist meas ure 30, hip measure 41 inches, I am 6 feet 7 Inches tall and I am very fleshy, and also would like ad vice how to fix my hair to loolc nice. My hair Is black brown, and I have a high forehead and fair complex ion, although red-faced. I have blue eyes and round face. My age is 22. Mansfield. You are not particularly stout con sidering your height. I take it that you need a separate wrap. Supposing you wish a short one, then an Eton model will be the better choice; in the case of a longer one, then I think the coat In a box-like model, fitting the shoulders smoothly, but full In the skirts will be the most becoming. You might make an inverted box pleat down the back, stitching down to Just below the shoulders and allowing the fulness to spring from there. Shape the coat under the arms at the seams and close down under center front. Cut lilarjorkDane's Embroidery Designs This pattern for a baby's bootee will be sent to Dane, 44 East twenty-third street. New York City. illustration with order. times at a ball. She always bows to him. though no further acquaintance may ever after exist between them. Too many women have the mistaken impression that manifestly to refuse all recognition is the proper method by which to end an undesirable acquaint ance or to administer a rebuke for dis courteous treatment received. It is perfectly easy, when desired, to ac knowledge a salutation with such dig nity and brevity of glance as plainly to Indicate that one's wish is to hold the person from whom the salutation is received to the merest bowing ac quaintance; and when the desire is to close an acquaintance entirely, one need only look away as the undesir able person approaches and keep the eyes persistently, but not ostentatious ly, averted or downcast untii he is by. This Is In most cases quite as effective and in every way much better than to give an Insolent and deliberate stare In answer to a bow and smile. When meeting the same person sev eral times In the day It Is not necessary to. bow elaborately at every encounter; a very sllgnt smile or glance of re cognition is enough. In Case of Accident. It Is not permitted, however rainy out the neck In a small V and edge with any preferred trimming, taking It down the front edges. The sleeves should be fairly full and confined by cuffs trimmed to match body of coat. Try taking your Vhalr back softly to the crown of the head, dropping or pulling down as much as possible over the forehead, and puffing slightly at the sides of the face. Secure in' one long strand and then, either coil or twist in a soft Virginia curl, pinning It down to the hair. Dear Miss Dane; Having rend your advice to so many, I thought maybe you could aid me In having a confirmation dress made, a white one, and what colors are best suited tome? I am nearly 16 years old, fair complexion, light brown hair and blue eyes; a little over S feet tall; waist measure 23. Do you think I am well-proportioned? .1 don't. Helen G. Since you ask me, I feel I must tell you I do not share your opinion, but think you are very well proportioned, although you failed to give exactly the details. The soft, white crepy goods Is ex ceedingly appropriate for confirmation, and so are veiling and albatross, if you wish to have one of the woolen materials. In cotton goods, cotton voile, organdy, lawn and dotted Swiss are nice. A fairly full skirt, tucked into the belt and finished on the bot tom with broader tucks, is a good model for woolen goods. Cotton may be trimmed with lace, as well as tucks, if so desired. An allover lace yoke always looks well on the heavier ma terials, but If you choose any of the sheer variety you could have a yoke formed of small tucks divided into groups with rows of insertion lace. The sleeves will be full puffs taken Into the cuffs of lace. Either model will be quite within the powers of the home dressmaker, and both will be equally pretty. A confirmation dress may be as dainty as you please, but never elaborate. Dear Miss Dane; My age Is 18. I would like your advice on how to do up my hair to look well. My hair Is between a dark and light brown, my eyes are grayish color, low forehead, heavy eyebrows, slim-faced, complexion fair. My height is 6 feet 6 Inches, bust meas ure 34 and waist 27 and hips 41. I would like your advice on how to make a long, black, silk coat and what to trim It with. I would like it long and loose. D. H. Wear your hair In pompadour, rais ing it way up from the forehead and puffing It slightly at the sides of the face and dress low in the back colling or twiBtlng as the length will allow, In regard to the coat, I should suggest an Empire style, a short yoke covered with an applique of black passamen terle, the body portion quite full, pleat ed at the top and attached to the yoke. The sleeves should be very full, so as to suggest shoulder breadth, and be gathered Into cuffs trimmed with pas samenterle. The silk should be either taffeta or peau de sole. anv address on receipt of ten cents by Mariorie The design can easily be transferred. Send the day may be and however fine and fresh her unprotected bonnet, for a woman to accept the shelter of an umbrella offered by a man who Is a stranger to her. But when a woman Is rescued from some peril by a man whom she does not know, it Is right for her to follow the natural expression of her thanks by asking, MAY I KNOW TO WHOM I AM INDEBTED FOR SUCH VALUABLE ASSISTANCE? If her rescuer Is a self-respecting work lngman, she may gently Insist on hav ing his name and address, with the Idea of bestowing on him a substantial proof of her gratitude. If he Is ap parently a man of some social con sequence or standing, she may wait until later and then, having in some way learned his name and address, she should send some man of her family her brother, her husband, son, or father to call on him and give re newed expression of her obligation. This course, however. Is only pursued where the service rendered is consid erable. If In brushing accidentally against a person, parcels or the like arestricken from his hands, It Is im perative to aid In restoring them, and to say, I BEG YOUR PARDON; I AM VERY SORRY. BEAR i L ill . 'i r ( i . f v j i. it? f - "5 v, ' N J Helpful Hints in Child RaisingBy Emily Holt Their Speech. GOOD manners, as well as charity, should begin at home; and even In the nursery. Boys and girls cannot be too early taught not to con tradict one another, but In expressing any difference of opinion to begin with some polite phrase, as, I BEQ TOUR PARDON, BUT, or I THINK YOU ARE WRONG, etc. None uut an untrained child will venture to correct or gainsay an elder even In this courteous fashion unless asked to give his or her know'edge or opinion of the matter under discussion. In the presence of strangers or older persons, a polite little man or maid would forbsar to speak until an oppor tunity was offered by a pause, or to assist in the conversation unless asked to do so. YES, NO, I THANK YOU, I AM NOT SUK-, PERHAPS, I HOPE SO, as answers to questions, are eminently proper when a child speaks to one of Its own age. For older persons, YES, MA'AM, and NO, SIR, Imply the re spect exacted from and paid by a ser vant to his or her employer. . For children the need of deference due their seniors Is amply, and in well bred families Invariably, expressed by affixing to th,e reply the name or title of the person addressed, thus: YES, MOTHER; NO, PAPA; THANK YOU, AUNT MARY; I AM NOT SURE, MRS. BROWN; I HOPE SO, DOCTOR JONES. Greetlnic Friends and Stranger. On Introduction to an older person, it is no more commendable for a boy or girl to press forward, crying out in an excess of manner, WELL, MRS. TONKS. HOW DO YOU DO? 1 AM VERY GLAD TO SEE YOU. I HOPE Easy Exercises TO put flesh on the shoulders, try this exercise night and morning: Raise the arms to the level of the shoulders, stretched outward, with palms of hands turned up. Bend the arms at the elbows until the hands touch the shoulders. Grip the shoulder tight, Inhaling while counting seven. Now hold the breath while counting four and draw down hard on the point of the shoulder with all the strength you can put Into the arms and hands, the elbow pointing downward. Exhal ing, and still gripping and pulling, count four more. Then loosen tho grip slightly on tho shoulder, count seven as before and repeat tho pulling movement on the shoulder, as given above. Re peat tills everclse at least ten times without taking the hands from the shoulders, and gradually increase until you can reach a record of twenty times. Bear in mind that the drawing down movement is made while holding the breath four counts and exhaling on four counts. While inhaling the hands grip the shoulders' more lightly. This exer cise fairly draws the hollows out be tween the neck and the point of the shoulder and gives curved lines in their place. Amusing Stories By Men You Read About Gen. Booth, the head of tho Salvation Army, was discussing the antisuiciue bureaus that hiB church has opened. Kindness and, charity," he said, "are factors of these bureaus. The charity will be of the right kind, I trust. There are, you know, two kinds of charity, and too much of It is like the barber's. There was a poor deacon in War wick, who had no money and needed to be shaved, and he went from barber to barber, but none of them, despite his holy office, was willing to shave- him for nothing. 'In tho end, tnough, he found a bar ber who, on hearing ms taie, sain gruftiy: "Sit down In that chair.' And this barber shaved him. But the razor he used! Dear me, its dull edge, and the nicks In it! Under the oneratlon the tears flowed in rivulets down tho poor deacon's checks. 'Suddenly the barber's dog, in the ad joining room, set up a terriflo bowling. B ... Q ft t " Z J v by - -u ' s ALL YOUR FAMILY ARE QUITE WELL than It is for some untrained little unfortunate, with hanging head and sullen face, to mumble a sentence, and pushed forward by its mother, re luctantly hold a limp hand or extend an unwilling cheek. Recognition should come first from the adult, as well as tho offer to kiss or shake hands. HOW t)0 YOU DO, MRS. BROWN; or GOOD MORNING, MR. JONES, is sufficient expression of greeting from the young person; and he further displays good taste and modesty by permitting the lady or gentleman addressed to begin the con versation and to end it. On entering a room where her mother Is enter taining a guest, a little girl stands be side the mother's chair r-til an intro duction is made; and If a favor rv question is t be asked, she should politely request permission to ask it and she Bhould remember to give the caller a polite good-day on retiring. , The Well-trnlned Child. A boy would observe exactly the same rule. And in the street, whon walking with his parents or sisters, he should lift his cap when they ans wer a bow or meet a friend. A boy can hardly learn too early that he should stand when the ladies enter a room, and open the door for his mother and older sisters. A shy child or an Impertinently forward one Is not Im proved by receiving correction In public from the parent who is too Indifferent to strive for reformation of his or her shortcomings In pri ate. An untrained child will contradict its mother p-ompl- j i .1 -l.. 1 1 n i ly ana impertinently tiuiuuii, u lowed to do so at home; It will openly for Filling Out Second: Stand straight with the chest high and the head thrown back. Clasp tho hands behind the body, with the palms turned upward and- the thumbs touching tho body. This position, if taken correctly, throws the chest high and gives the perfect Grecian bend to the figure. Now loosen the thumbs, but do not unclasp the1 hands, and turn them slowly at the wrists until tho palms are down and the thumbs apart and out. Make sure that you are stand ing firmly on your feet; then bend slow ly at the waist line, keeping knees stiff, and raise the clasped hands as far as possible toward tho front or above the head. Swing the hands back and forth, still clasped, while you count twenty. When fust taking this exercise resume the normal position of hands and body after counting twenty. Lator on you will be able to rest by merely stopping the swinging motion. This exercise puts flesh on tho upper part of tho arms as well as on the chest, shoulders and throat. An exercise that wlil Improve the shape of both the shoulders and arms Is this: Stand erect with hands dropped at side. Inhale slowly, while you make " 'Bo still there,' cried tho barber. And he muttered anxiously: 'What can they be doing to him?' " 'Alas,' said the deacon, 'I shouldn't wonder if some one was shaving him out of charity.' " Dr, Seward Webb, at a dinner at Slielburno Farms, his great Vermont estate, said of a certain poor marks man: "Visiting his English brother-in-law he shot the head keeper in the leg the first morning he tried pheasant shoot ing. The man limped away cursing horribly. "Next day he had wretched luck, though the wounded head keeper with out malice had assigned him to a fair ly good place. Bang, bang, bang went his gun every few seconds, but not a bird fell before it. Ho was much em barrassed. It seemed, too, that at each of his misses the underkeepcr smiled at one another oddly. Something every little girl will be crazy over and will want to possess for her own. They are nqw all the rage all over the United States. The demand for them Is so great dealers cannot, get them font enough ; factories In Europe are work ing night and day to supply the demand; we were fortunate enough to secure a largo stock from our agents abroad bo that we can fill our orders promptly. Our bear Is nearly a foot high, has a large, fine, fuzzy body, perfect moving arms and legs and can be placed In any position desired; has shiny black eyes and a pointed nose and looks exactly like a real Bear; when you squeeze him Teddy gives a squeak that will make you die a laughing and might well be called a Talking Bear; will give no end of fun and amusement to tho whole family. You will find our Teddy Bear a source of endless pleasure and the envy of all your play mates. You can get our Great. IMg Teddy Hear simply working for lis a few hours among your friends. Sell for us 25 fast selling articles at only 10 cents) each. We guarantee the articles wo shall send you to sell at sight. When sold re tnrn our $2.00 and Hie Bijr Teddy Bear will go to you at ojice carefully packed and guaranteed to reach you In perfect condition. We trnst you for goods until sold. Send at once beforo wo get out as you may not see this advertisement again. Address. TRUE BLUE COMPANY 160 Congress Street, Dept. 293, Boston, Mass. stare or laugh at an unhappy deform ity, frankly comment on a visitor's loss of an arm or redness of nose, and will accept remonstrance with bad grace, if only In the presence of stran gers any restraint Is put upon Hb of ten Innocently unkind or malapropos observations. The Star Child. There Is really no difficulty at all presented by the condition so often miscalled "shyness" In a child. Few children are naturally shy. Self-consciousness, an excess of vanity, a sul len humor, or a timidity engendered by a genuine unhappy ignorance of what to do, are too often the true causes of the ill behavior for which mothers too readily offer tho orthodox excuse. No well-mannered child Is eve too shy to speak when spoken to or to play Its modest little social role; and simple course In children's etiquette Instituted tactfully at i.ome and main tained with persistency and care will, In the end, unfailingly dissipate the socalled diffidence, very like morning mists before tho sun's rays. I Now and then a boy or girl of a nervous temperament and lacking wholly In self-confidence betrays a case of shyness pure and simple. This a sensible mother can do much to over come by herself rehearsing with the youngster many forms of entering a room, answering kind greetings, etc. She would make a serious effort to assist her child in acquiring such an accomplishment as dancing or playing an instrument; therefore, why does not the acquirement of a graceful bearing merit as earnest an endeavor? (Copyright, McClure, Phillips & Co.) Ugly Hollows fists with the knuckles turned forward and the thumbs resting against the side of tho body. Twist the arms -outward until the palms Instead of the knuckles turn out, keeping the muscles of the arm taut the while. Repeat the motion with all your strength and your mus cles tense, slowly raising the arms with each twist, and gradually working them backward above the head and be hind the head, and gradually dropping them until on the finish they are behind the body, with the palms outward, the hands still clenched. Count seven for inhaling and four for exhaling, Inhaling through the nostrils and exhaling gen tly through the lips. Have your chest bare when you take this exercise and watch the action of the muscles. You will be surprised at their dally Increase In size and power. Last: Lie down flat on your back on the floor, with the arms out straight at right' angles with the body, palms down on the floor. Without moving, take ten deep breaths; then raise or rather swing the hands to a point directly above the head, the palms turned up ward and take ten deep breaths. Re peat this exercise twenty times and al low no part of the body to leave the door. Finally his cartridges gave out. He hurried to the nearest keeper and de manded more. "'There ain't no more, sir.1 the man answered. " 'No more? Nonsense. Why, you've got at least 1000 in that box.' "The keeper flushed and stammered: "'Ah, put them ain't for you, sir. They're for another gent. They've got shot in 'em, sir.' " "Some women," said John W. Gates, "not all women, but some of them, are very poor speculators, very poor gamblers. "A young friend of mine has a pretty cousin. Ho was going to the races the other day, and she called him up on the telephone, and asked him to put (10 on Forrest King for her. " 'Very well,' he said; Til do it if you'll pay me back.' " 'Of course I'll pay you back, you horrid thing,' exclaimed his cousin. " 'All ria-ht,' said he. 'You didn't last time.' '"O, well,' said she, 'last time the hone didn't win, you know.'" ,