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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 14, 2013)
the GROWLER THE TAP AND GROWLER HAS 70PLUS TAPS RUSH A guide to the new beverage boom in town PHOTO BY TRASK BEDORTHA by alex notman J ust imagine: The year is 1777 and, after a long day commanding troops in the Revolutionary War, future fi rst President George Washington just wants a brewsky. A striking fi gure with silver mane, ruffl ed collar and white culottes, Washington gallivants around the colonies swinging a bulbous vessel frothing with his compatriot Samuel Adams’ brew (most likely a porter). Maybe the vessel even has some old-timey hand lettering like “I’m number one!” When the beer runs dry, Washington is not above begging: “Soldiers in the American Revolution drew a quart of beer each in their daily rations. When the supply ran short George Washington begged the Board of War in 1777 to rush the growler for more. Washington himself drank beer,” Hal Boyle writes in the 1949 Tuscaloosa News story “Of History And Beer.” Whether the veracity of Washington’s imbibing habits holds true, there is no doubt that growlers have long been a popular transportable container for beer and wine. Their popularity waned with the rise of the six-pack and mass production in the 20th century, but now a new golden wave of growler-dom is washing over Eugene. Oregon law has allowed breweries and taphouses to fi ll growlers with beer in the past, but as of last spring the fl oodgates opened wider when Gov. Kitzhaber signed the “Growler Bill” (aka House Bill 2443), allowing wineries, cider houses, local groceries and other licensed retailers to sell wine and hard cider in growlers to consumers. This boom has ushered in a new era for libations: the era of the reusable container. In the past six months, four growler fi ll stations have bubbled up — The Tap and Growler, Growler Guys, Growler Nation, The Steel Pail — and another, Growler University, is slated to open mid- December. Add that to the explosion of breweries in the area, and other licensed retailers that fi ll growlers, like KELLY JONES AT GROWLER GUYS PHOTO BY TODD COOPER early adopters 16 Tons as well as grocers, gas stations and teahouses, and it’s safe to say that Eugene is undergoing a growler rush. Even Vanilla Jill’s Frozen Yogurt has gotten into the growler game with six Kore Kombucha (fermented tea) brews on tap. These new laws and options can leave the uninitiated thirsty consumer confused and overwhelmed; EW gives you the 101 on local growler culture, from fi ll stations to the vessel to the libations’ source. JUST TAP IT IN Sharing with the community is, in part, why growler stations have such footing in craft brew meccas like Bend and are gaining popularity in Eugene. “We’re selling things that are not available in stores,” says Patric Campbell, co- owner of The Tap and Growler on 5th and Pearl. Walk into any of the growler stations or growler tap houses and tasting rooms in town — mostly rustic affairs with lots of wood, stone and corrugated tin — and you will be confronted with at least 25 taps of local, regional and international craft beer; most have a smattering of wine and kombucha, and The Tap and Growler also sells craft sodas from Agrarian Ales and Pacori cold press coffee. Places like The Tap and Growler, which Campbell distinguishes as a growler taphouse and tasting room — not just a fi ll station — also offer fl exibility. “You can order a ‘your choice’ fl ight,” he says, which could include three beers and three wines, for example, or whatever combinations from the 70-plus taps that tickle your fancy. “Going to the store and picking up a six-pack is not a fun experience,” says Mark Bilton-Smith, founder and co-owner of Growler University, opening next month on Villard Street. “At the growler station, we get in touch with the consumer — to be able to teach the university students, who are used to the beer bong, about the taste.” Education will be a big aspect, Bilton-Smith notes, adding that he wants to inform the university demographic how to appreciate beer, the same way wine connoisseurs have been doing for millennia, by identifying and savoring aroma, hops, malt, acidity and good food pairings. The price point of fi lls is also part of the appeal of growler stations. The cost varies depending on size of vessel and type of beverage, but wine and kombucha are typically cheaper when bought on tap, while beer varies. Many beer consumers complain that a six-pack of beer is cheaper than a 64-ounce growler; however, the beers available on tap are fresher, have undergone less degradation from the distribution process and are often special or seasonal brews that cannot be bought in the store. eugeneweekly.com • November 14, 2013 13
