Eugene weekly., January 26, 2012, Page 31, Image 31

SUSHI YA-YA YUM
Raw fish with bite BY TED SHORACK
I
f you’ve got a hankering for some spicy tuna or
pork and don’t mind a little forehead sweat, Sushi
Ya has peppery appetizers, signature sushi rolls and
a mean bento to satisfy the need.
The downtown Eugene restaurant opened in 2008, and
owner Yunhee Song has utilized the limited space by ele-
gantly arranging a paper globe-lit dining room and a short-
but-sweet bar setup. On the first floor of the Tiffany
Building, at the intersection of Willamette and East 8th,
Sushi Ya is a short walk from a weekday job or weekend bar
blitz downtown.
The restaurant appears unassuming at first glance, but
the bar — with only six seats and a small glass case for
viewing — has a wonderful oval granite backdrop with a
large tin fish and vibrant collection of sake on display. To
the right hangs a flat screen TV for those interested in
catching a game with a few sake bombs.
PHOTOS BY TODD COOPER
(LEFT) CHEF PAUL HONG PREPARES A "GO DUCKS" ROLL
(RIGHT) SUSHI YA'S FIRECRACKER ROLL
But before indulging in some rice wine, start your meal
with a bang. The appetizer at the top of Ya’s list, the
“Firecracker,” comes on a bed of shredded cabbage as four
halves of tempura-fried jalapeños stuffed with spicy tuna,
cream cheese, unagi sauce and a drizzle of spicy mayo for
each. The overwhelming kick is absent, with no sign of the
pepper’s seeds, but the presentation and combination of
flavors make up for it.
Lovers of spicy rolls should try the reasonably priced
spicy tuna or spicy yellowtail rolls. Served on a beautiful
square plate, the two make a great combination for 11
bucks. If you’re willing to spend a little more for a tingling
tongue, the Hawaii volcano roll and “TNT” crunchy sushi
roll are a good start. Both start off with spicy tuna and build
up with masago (roe from a small fish), unagi or crab and
are priced at $9.50 and $11.50.
Another favorite is the “GO DUCKS” roll with alba-
core, avocado, green onion and topped with a creamy spicy
sauce. This past football season, the restaurant treated
Duck fans and others to 30 percent off all food on winning
game days.
Sushi Ya’s head chef, Paul Hong, says he is especially
proud of their spicy pork bento, which comes as a combo
with a California roll, potstickers, kobachi and miso soup.
The generous portion costs $10.95 and can tend to that
desire for the spicier side of life.
The restaurant draws a crowd on weekend nights, owner
Song says, with its midnight closing time. She also says the
30-percent happy hour between 3 and 5 pm is a great time
to stop by, with a dozen kinds of cold sake, seven of hot
sake, wine, beer and, well, what else do you really need?
Ya’s alluring street-side booths, with upright bamboo
racks around the perimeter, make it a cozy place to sit for
dinner and people-watching while enjoying a full range of
the menu’s options. ■
Sushi Ya is located at 5 E. 5th Ave., 686-3464, www.eugenesushiya.com
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CHOW! Winter 2012 3