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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (June 10, 2010)
CHOW! SUMMER 2010 MASELLI TRUSTS THAT THE QUALITY OF HIS LOCAL INGREDIENTS WILL COAX EUGENEANS TO BRANCH OUT ‘AND EXPERIENCE MORE OF ITALY.’ BUON APPETITO The focus on sustainability invested in the restaurant’s decor is evident in its menu as well. Lamb, beef and veal are all sourced locally (though Maselli is quick to point out that Sfizio will cater to a wide array of palates, including the meatless). Eggs will come from Lorane, flour from Pendleton. Sfizio’s pastas, from bucatini and riga- toni to ravioli and spaghettini, will be prepared fresh daily, in-house. “We’re not taking too many liberties” with traditional recipes, says Maselli, who trusts that the quality of his local ingredients will coax Eugeneans to branch out “and experience more of Italy.” Portions for one will be available, but Maselli says he hopes diners will order the food as he intended it: family style, with enough to feed the entire table. As for why he’d open his new spot during an economic reces- sion, “This is peasant food” Maselli says philosophically. “It’s going to be a great value for the customer. It’s healthy, it’s filling.” In keeping with Sfizio’s aim of expanding Eugene’s Mediterranean palate, desserts veer away from Italian menu stal- warts like tiramisu, opting instead for crostata, panna cotta and a confection feast with the delightful name “the doughnut plate.” For his drinks menu, Maselli has secured the consultant ser- vices of Portland mixologist Jeffrey Morgenthaler. “What I’m envisioning for the bar menu is a small list of well-executed origi- nal cocktails inspired by Italian flavors,” says Morgenthaler. “We’re going to be using a lot of amari (bitter Italian liqueurs) and putting together some very simple but solid cocktails.” Wines from Sfizio’s impressive list will be available by the glass, quarter liter, half liter or liter, and sparkling Italian wine will be on tap. “My goal is to get wine on every table,” Maselli says. FAMILY TIES Like the dishes he prepares, Rocky Maselli himself derives from a solid culinary lineage. His parents hail from California. “One side was olives, one side was grapes,” he says; Maselli’s father’s family was in the olive and olive oil business in the San Joaquin Valley, while his mother’s family grew grapes in Sonoma. A family move to British Columbia when he was 10 exposed Maselli to Northwest cuisine. After completing a degree in restau- rant management, Maselli cooked his way through positions in the Bay Area and Portland. Maselli’s wife, Leah, is the daughter of Marché owner Stephanie Pearl Kimmel, and Maselli’s career and personal life have grown along with the family business. “My daughters and Marché both happened [to me] in ’98,” he says. For Sfizio, Maselli has assembled a new famiglia. Chef Alex Bourgidu’s pedigree includes the restaurants Genoa of Portland and Porta of North Bend. Sous chef Quinton Stewart is a graduate of Branzino and Tilth, two Seattle restaurants. Sfizio’s general manager Jon Cook held that position at Café Lucky Noodle, and has worked at other Eugene spots including Mazzi’s, Mekala’s and Ambrosia. Maselli seems eager to get cooking. “This is my opportunity to invite Eugene and do something different,” he says, “to bring what I was doing in Portland or San Francisco to Eugene.” ■ happy k c i i n n g c i ! p Tasty Food and Great Times! Quick lunch? Entrees & side dishes? Food for meetings and parties? Check out Capella Market’s KITCHEN & DELI 1. Choose a location. 2. Find an empty basket*. 3. Stop at Sundance. We have organic produce, local cheeses, gluten-free crackers and baked goods, fair trade chocolate, local beer & wine, and an organic salad bar. *Can’t find one? We have them for sale in the produce department! NATURAL FOODS FROM THE KITCHEN • Soups • Appetizers • Entrees • Salads • Side Dishes • Hot Breakfast!* *Toast with Cheese & Tomato, French Toast, Scrambled Eggs & Cheese, Potato Romesco MADE TO ORDER • Sandwiches • Coffee & Tea • Organic Juices SLICED TO ORDER • Deli Meats • Bulk Cheeses FOR MEETINGS & PARTIES • Box Lunches • Party Trays (Cheeses, Meats, Veggies, Olives) • Appetizers, Entrees, Side Dishes, Salads & Soups Breakfast Everyday Daily Lunch Specials Homemade Soups GIVE US A CALL! • 345-1014 • ASK FOR THE DELI Heated Outdoor Patio Thursday Blues Jam LIMITED INDOOR AND OUTDOOR SEATING AVAILABLE . e, n o A tradition st o r u ris al natural foods e c hing ou r co PP unity sin th & +il\ard -- open dail\ aP-pP chow.eugeneweekly.com 13 TV’s Pool, Lottery Texas Hold’em 25th & WILLAMETTE • EUGENE OPEN DAILY 8AM-10PM (541) 345-1014 www.capellamarket.com 770 S. BERTELSEN 541-342-5028 WWW.OVERTIMEGRILL.BIZ CHOW! JUNE 10, 2010 5
