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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 28, 2010)
CHOW! WINTER 2010 Veg Out TWO NEW FOOD CARTS OFFER TASTY CHOICES EVEN MEAT LOVERS CAN ENJOY L isten up, food fanatics: Your vegan and vegetarian choices can be more exciting than you think. Although vegan food enthusiasts in Eugene are fairly common, a sizable number of people cringe at any mention of “vegan” or “vegetarian.” But there are two unusual cafés specializing in vegan meals that fill the belly and please the taste buds — without any guilt. These two food carts, the Cornbread Café and Viva! Vegetarian Grill, serve organic, mostly local and environmentally friend- ly cuisine that is every bit as flavorful as the “regular” stuff. The Cornbread Café, owned by Sheree Walters and Kristy Hammond, held its grand opening Jan. 18th. It’s located on 13th and Oak, where Briggs Photography Studio used to be. But the café itself sits outside in a trailer, with wooden steps leading up to the front window. Walters and Hammond origi- nally intended to open a restaurant inside the building but were deterred by the high price of installing a septic system and kitchen. Instead, they parked their kitchen outside and subleased the build- ing to nonprofits. The Hummingbird Art Gallery and Bad Egg, a bookstore and infoshop, occupy the interior. Walters and Hammond do eventually want to move towards a full-size restau- rant, but for now, they’re happy to cook vegan comfort food that doesn’t taste like bland, mushy tofu. This bacon-lov- ing writer tried out the aromatic barbe- cue sandwich, which comes in an take- out box with crispy fries. The sandwich, served on a wheat bun, is slathered with slightly tangy and sweet barbecue sauce. It isn’t exactly like a BBQ rib sandwich or pulled pork; it’s a little chewier with a slightly spongy texture. Yet I enjoyed something that was different than the usual burger-and-fries, but still as hearty and satisfying. Besides sandwiches, Cornbread Café offers build-your-own meals, each containing a main dish, a side and a vegetable. Those on a smaller budget can pick up a basket (basically the main dishes, southern fried tofu or Phish and Chips, without the side item) or a salad and cornbread. And they have LOOK FOR US ON TAP AND IN 22 OZ BOTTLES BY DARCY WALLACE | PHOTOS BY TRASK BEDORTHA kids' meals; they come with stickers! “Vegan soul food” is truly an accurate label for the Cornbread Café. I f that isn’t enough for you, scoot over to 12th and Willamette, where you’ll find Viva! Vegetarian Grill. Dave Wagenheim originally start- ed his business in the spring of 2006, selling tofu dogs out of a cart pulled by a tricycle. Then, he rode through Kesey Square six days a week. Now his cart has a home right along the bike path. His menu specializes in Tofurkey dogs and what he calls “soysages,” not to mention the relatively new vegan cheesesteak sandwich. What makes Viva! Vegetarian Grill unique is the menu of all-American food items — in meatless incarnations. Among the menu choices are the vegetarian foot- long, the Polish soysage and a meatless meatball sandwich. The cart also serves Wandering Goat coffee, organic teas and Genesis juice. The most popular item, Wagenheim says, is the cheesesteak. “Everywhere I have vended, people see BIG ASS To... chow.eugeneweekly.com Cornbread Café, 13th & Oak, 11 am-3 pm M-F. Viva! Vegetarian Grill, 12th & Willamette, 11 am-4 pm M-F. www.eugenecooks.com Papa’s Soul Food Kitchen Wants Yo’ it as totally unique,” he says. “Some people don’t order anything else because they’re so hooked on it.” If your mouth isn’t watering yet, check out these dis- counts: Wagenheim takes a dollar off food items if you arrive on bicycle, you show your student ID or it’s raining. Viva! Vegetarian Grill not only serves environmentally friendly foods but uses compostable cups and locally made ingredients. Tofurkey sausages come from Hood River, and Wagenheim's tem- peh is made at Surata Soyfoods, three blocks away from his house. Dave’s Killer Bread, which Wagenheim uses for his veggie Reuben, is whole wheat, organic and made in Portland. So, readers, if you’re afraid of the word “vegan,” I challenge you to face up to your fears. Vegan and vegetarian food doesn’t have to be tasteless and bland, and these two new food carts just might surprise you. ■ EAT SOUL FOOD! 400 Blair Blvd. 342-7500 CHOW! JANUARY 28, 2010 3
