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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (June 17, 2004)
BY BOBBIE WILLIS Southern and Northern Indian Cuisine Daily Lunch Buffet $6.99 11:30am - 2:30pm Dinner 5pm - 9:30pm • Variety of vegetarian entrées • Private catering and Banquet Room available BUY ONE DINNER ENTRÉE GET 2ND ENTRÉE 50% OFF w/ purchase of 2 drinks One coupon per party • Valid for dine in only • Monday-Thursday • Expires 7/31/04 65 Division Ave., Suite M • Santa Clara Square • 541-607-1717 Little things, Big Ideas T a s t y T h ai K it c he n T r a di t i on a l The staff of Tararin (left to right) Vun, Bangon, B, Mon T h a i Cu is in e by Owner and Chef Pismai The Next Generation WEEKLY SPECIALS Tararin Thai Cuisine continues the tradition of good, fresh food. D owntowners will be happy to have a Thai restaurant back at 1200 Oak Street, and even happier to know that the relatively new establishment, Tararin , is owned by B, son of Chao Pra Ya’s Vivat and Bangon Kaokept, whose cuisine has become known in Eugene for its dynamite flavor and freshness. Upon entering Tararin, you will be announced by clanging chimes attached to the glass door. The sound is almost startling given the calm, quiet setting of the waiting area. Tararin is painted in warm shades of cinnamon and beige, and the lobby area has a charming water fountain made from two spiraling towers of small terracotta bowls, 40 bowls all together spilling water from the top, one into the next. The sound is soothing and, along with the soft strains of background music, helps to create a calm, quiet atmosphere for a good meal. Maybe because it’s the first day in a while that feels like summer, but I have the littlest hankering for BBQ. Scanning Tararin’s lunch menu, I see that there are actually a couple of BBQ options. I decide to order the Khao Naa Kai Tod BBQ selec- tion ($7.50), which is described in the menu as: “Battered lemongrass chicken breast, deep fried. Served over jasmine rice. Comes with a side of Three-Flavored Sauce and Garden Salad.” I also order salad rolls ($4.95), feeling a little guilty about BBQ and particularly this deep-fried version. The salad rolls arrive promptly, and they are huge, enough to take leftovers, or to at least be a lunch meal on their own. With basil leaves, crisp lettuce, carrot bits and a chunk of tofu wrapped in tender rice paper, these are wonderful morsels of fresh flavor and texture. The basil is amazing, and the chunk of tofu is the perfect soaker-upper for the sweet, tangy, spicy, nutty dipping sauce (the sauce is so flavorful and tasty, in fact, it is another one of those cases where you wonder if you aren’t eating the real food just to get as much of the dipping sauce as you can…). Then comes the BBQ, and it is both not at all what I expect, and a pretty cool food surprise all in one. The “deep fried” description had me fearing I might get a hunk of fried chicken tender on a plate. And the BBQ aspect had me thinking there was chance that the dish could be greasy or drenched in sauce. However, what arrives at my table is a beautifully prepared chicken breast coated with a very thin, but full-flavored batter. The batter is so thin, I hesitate to even use the word — it’s more like a rub or a well incorporated marinade. According to my waitperson, the chicken is first grilled, then coated with the batter and deep fried light- ly. Lemongrass, it seems, is a pretty great flavor to accompany grilling (I would never have known this on my own). It adds just the subtlest hint of lemon and something floral to the dish. With the Three-Flavored sauce, similar to the salad roll dipping sauce, but not quite as spicy, it still didn’t seem like BBQ, but it was very delicious all the same. The dish comes not only with jas- mine rice, but with tender steamed vegeta- bles (mine was broccoli) and a salad of ice- berg lettuce, cubes of cucumber and bits of red onion. The dressing (I could write a whole column, I suppose, on the sauces and dressings) is a sweet, light vinaigrette — simple, clean and fresh. Actually, throughout the whole meal, the word “fresh” keeps coming to mind. From the flavorful basil to the crisp greens to the perfectly prepared steamed vegeta- bles to the lemongrass batter, my meal is full of fresh flavors that are clear and dis- tinct, yet perfectly matched and balanced when everything is put together. The service at Tararin is fantastic. Waitpersons are attentive without being overbearing, and food orders arrive promptly, even during the lunch rush. While Tararin’s predecessor Chao Pra Ya may be known as well for its cuisine as for its affordability, Tararin’s tony downtown location and more sophisticated, sit-down style seem to be reflected in slightly higher prices. Tararin serves a variety of noodle, stir- fry, curry and entrée specials (lots of veggie options), along with appetizers, soups, sal- ads and desserts. FOR LUNCH & DINNER VEGETARIAN & VEGAN OPTIONS AVAILABLE BEER & WINE NOW AVAILABLE Your Decorating Coach THE HOME REDESIGN STUDIO 345-5470 NOW OPEN FOR LUNCH ON SATURDAYS! www.homeredesignstudio.com 302-6444 Mon - Fri 11 AM - 9:30 PM • Sat & Sun 12 PM - 9:30 PM 80 E. 29th & Willamette S ushi Station 199 East 5th Avenue ◆ 541-484-1334 Come see our sushi-go-round and open grill Sushi starting at $1.75 We serve: tempura ◆ udon ◆ yakisoba teppanyaki ◆ teriyaki lunch box specials and more... Take out available Lunch MON-FRI 11:30-2:30 Dinner MON-SAT 5:00-10:00 ◆ Closed SUN 1200 Oak St. 343-1230. Lunch M-F 11 am-3 pm, dinner 5 pm-10 pm; Sa-Su noon-10 pm. Wheelchair accessible. $-$$. JUNE 17, 2004 31
