Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (May 6, 2004)
BY LANCE SPARKS America’s true hearts and only hope. S till early morning, air heating rap- idly toward mid-summer swelter, I prowl my shabby office on the 17th floor of Eugene’s most ghastly office building; stop, stare out the grimy win- dows, look down on the milling throngs at Saturday Market, awash in color of spring, thick clusters of callas, poppies, iris and lupine. Up here, trapped in this monument to functionalist mausoleum archi- wines at 90 points (excellent) or better, most from the fine 2001 and 2002 vintages. WS rates a whole raft of Oregon pinot noir and gris at 85-90 points (very good). Many of these (ahem) have been mentioned in this column — more to follow — but we should keep in mind that most Oregon producers are so small that they won’t even send samples to the press, even if their products are superb (Broadley Vineyards comes to mind). And sometimes Wine Spectator, prime world-scale winepress, for the first time in memory lists over 50 Oregon wines at 90 points (excellent) or better. tecture, the defining style of Eugene com- mercial building for the last half-century, I grind my teeth and wrestle with angst: mas- sive corruption in government, young men and women dying daily in the Halliburton wars, poor and ailing millions sinking in de- spair, mere victims of “Market Forces” and the corporate ethic of unbridled greed and moral indifference — and I should write about the frail beauties of wine and food. Words from my lovely daughter, Sulwyn, erstwhile manager of Marché, offer some comfort: “Dad,” she pleaded, “you of all peo- ple know that it’s all about doing the work of beauty and pleasure, ‘cause if we don’t hold on to that, we all get the short end of the hoo- hoo.” She’s right, of course; it’s a blessing to have our children return our support and love and modest modicums of acquired wisdom. I breathe a little deeper, even as I watch the city’s smog wrap around city walls like a nap- ping cat. Sip dark coffee, peer through haze: sweet blend of Bluegene citizens fingering hand- made arts and crafts, baskets laden with fresh produce, hands/arms heavy with pots and plant starts, pretty faces, all colors, all ages, eternally hip and blandly square, easy smiles, America’s true hearts and only hope. Mind wanders: Last weekend, more than a half-million women thronged Washington, D.C.’s, great Mall to demonstrate for women’s rights, most importantly the right to control their own reproductive decisions. Their passion and fervor was electric, despite all efforts of media reporters and anti-choice hacks to downplay or disparage the massive display of unity and the depth of the women’s moral commitment. Freedom: The word means the individual has the right to choose, and the state created by free people must, first and foremost, protect that right. Imagine, now, a half-million freedom-loving, women- honoring men rising in support of those dy- namic marchers. Imagine the despair of mean-spirited, misogynistic Talibanners the world over. Wouldn’t that be cool? OK, from the sublime to the merely mun- dane, but still in the spirit of choice, let’s choose some wines. BUT FIRST: Take note, Oregonians, that the latest issue of Wine Spectator, prime world-scale winepress, for the first time in memory lists over 50 Oregon we get local-folks prices that contrast sharply with national retail. Case in Point: Griffin Creek Viognier Rogue Valley 2002; Spectator rings up 88 points (reeeeal good), praises this lovely dry white for flavors “rich, spicy and effu- sively floral” (all true, and more — round, ripe, brilliant with fresh crab), retail at $25. Nah, on sale on local shelves at $13, super value for superb wine. Haul the penny-jar to favorite wineshop, pull clerk’s coat, say vee- o-nyay, gimmesum. We cook a lot of Asian-style — love the spicing, textures, colors — enjoy the way Oregon rieslings and gewurztraminers match-up, particularly Amity Dry Gewurztraminer (WS 87 pts., $12, mentioned in March column), but lately we’ve been charmed by O’Reilly’s 2002 Oregon Pinot Gris ($10), so generous with fla- vors/aromas of ripe pears, minerals, hint of starfruit, so bright and clean. Don’t see any particular reason to share this lovely juice with outtastaters; OK, one bottle to Molly Ivins. She’s a hero and suffers living in Texas. Last month, we surveyed local wineries, tried to give some love to Eugene’s own, but one slipped under the radar, newbies in the Lorane Valley, neighbors to King Estate et al., and recently hired Sundance Wine Cellars’ longtime manager, the gentlemanly Keith Tabor, to become general manager. We refer, of course, to the producers of Iris Hill 2001 Pinot Noir ($15); the label is funky but the wine is light in body yet with fresh fruit fla- vors of cherries and raspberries, tasty with light meats and ripe cheeses. Local foodies’ new rave is Zelaya’s at 839 Lincoln, where Patrick and Madeline McKee (who opened Red Agave, then moved on) have turned a teeny space into a fine dinery with Spanish flair. Popped in the other night for Patrick’s fresh halibut, drank a bottle of Burgans 2002 Albariño ($13 retail), such a pretty white from Spain’s Rias Baixas region: dry, clean, with flavors of limestone, pears, apples, floral notes, just all over the mouth, danced a charming pas de deux with the grilled fish. Doubt me, test me, try it — but keep yer paws off Maddy’s swelling, boy- bearing tummy. ’K, hit the bricks, folks, serve and protect your freedoms. Don’t let the Talibushies give you the short end of the hoo-hoo. ew T a st y T h ai K it ch en T r ad i ti on a l Th a i Cu i si ne by Owner and Chef Pismai WEEKLY SPECIALS FOR LUNCH & DINNER VEGETARIAN & VEGAN OPTIONS AVAILABLE BEER & WINE NOW AVAILABLE NOW OPEN FOR LUNCH ON SATURDAYS! Mon - Fri 11 AM - 9:30 PM • Sat & Sun 12 PM - 9:30 PM 80 E. 29th & Willamette 302-6444 V ISIT E UGENE ’ S LARGEST SELECTION OF FINE WINES . WINE TASTINGS Wine Bashing the Talibushes We stock hundreds of fine wines from around the world including over 200 Oregon pinot noirs and the best selection of organic wines in the valley. Stop by for our free tastings every Friday and Saturday from 4 pm to 6 pm. We also feature a complete line-up of classes and special wine dinners. Call for details. M A Y T ASTING SEMIN ARS : R HONE , M AY 5 / S PAIN SEMINARS M AY 12 / B URGUNDY , M AY 19 / B ORDEAUX , M AY 26. C ALL S TEVE FOR DETAILS & RESERVATIONS . OPEN DAILY UNTIL 7PM Also, each Saturday we offer “Super Pours”- A chance to sample ( for a small fee) a selected high-end or older vintage wine from our shelves. SUNDANCE W I N E C E L L A R S 2470 ALDER ST. 687-WINE ORWINES.COM MAY 6, 2004 35
