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About Eugene weekly. (Eugene, Oregon) 1993-current | View Entire Issue (April 3, 2003)
BY LANCE SPARKS More Time on Wine Let good wines lie for a few years. before, we had tasted Rancho Zabaco ast month, we investigated the mys- 2001 Chiotti Vineyard Zinfandel terious alchemy worked by time on ($25), blockbuster zin, huge in fruit, spice, wines, specifically fine Bordeaux, woods (lovely tinge of cedar and sandle- the massive reds of France’s Gironde Valley. wood), drinkable now, sure, but in two years We noted that great Bordeaux wines are or a little more, this wine would write poetry hugely (feloniously) expensive, even on the palate (from Emily Dickinson, blow- though they tend to increase in value over ing off the top of the head). time. And over time they almost certainly Can Oregon wines perform this well? increase in charm, depth and complexity. Certainly some of our best Bordeaux vari- Allowed to reach full maturity, they yield etals — cabernet sauvignon, merlot, caber- flavors so rare and rich that consumer de- net franc — have been mand drives their value around long enough now to into the stratosphere, be- yond reach of most people Oregon pinot noir, have a track record. Contact Valley View Vineyard in in the world. Chateau says common the Rogue Valley; ask if Petrus 2000 must be grand wisdom, does not they still offer older vin- merlot, but $1500 per bot- tle? Strictly for the crimi- age particularly tages of their exceptional cabs and merlots. Or, from nal classes, drug cartel kingpins and megacorp well. Best to drink the same region, ask Dick of Troon CEOs. these, experience Troon Vineyards if he’d like to Much more accessible shows, within let go of some ’85, ’89, or are top-shelf California (and Oregon and three to five years ’94. Be ready for deep sur- prise. And watch the com- Washington) cabernets and after release. ing years as some of our merlots, which, while not best vineyards from the quite reaching the Rogue, Umpqua and Columbia Valleys re- grandeur of Great Growth Bordeaux, can lease more of their Rhone varietals — syrah, achieve startling depth and complexity. petite sirah, grenache. Single case in point: A few years ago, Oregon pinot noir, says common wis- friends sent me two bottles of Jade dom, does not age particularly well. Best to Mountain 1998 Merlot Caldwell drink these, experience shows, within three Vineyard, Napa Valley ($30), not a very to five years after release. Lovely in their good year but a very good maker. The back youth, they tend to fade rapidly, losing the label promised that the wine’s “approach- vibrant freshness of their fruit in a half- able character” would “tempt early drink- dozen years or so. But I have tasted, over ing, though restraint promises that longer two decades, some Oregon pinots at 10 to 12 term aging will be well rewarded.” years old that show a velvety elegance that Translated loosely, this meant that, like can only be achieved with time. many winemakers across the globe, folks at Not only reds mature gracefully. JM recognized that 90+ percent of any vin- Germany just released its 2001 vintage, tage will be consumed within a year of its re- touted as a classic year. Mosel Valley ries- lease, meaning the market responds well to lings, in particular, are showing spectacu- wines that are made for immediate drinking. larly. Many of these are made to reach vary- Those wines are made to be less tannic ing levels of sweetness, but don’t think of (mouth-drying), more fruit-forward. Blue Nun or gooey, sugary schlock. The We opened the first bottle, found it deli- high acidity and low alcohol in these wines cious — big, ripe, juicy with black fruits yield a sweetness like no other, delicious (currants, cherries), round and firm — but it with foods, especially Asian dishes, fresh seemed to be holding something back. I seafood, cold meats, cheeses. We recently stashed the second bottle, opened it only re- drank Monchhof 2001 Urziger cently; the flavors had deepened, melded, Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese ($24): grown richer, more subtle, tinged with brilliant fruit flavors of ripe pears, white woodsmoke, hints of chocolate and licorice, flowers and slate/mineral purity that chimed sweet toasty oak, the finish long and linger- like a bell. We followed with a Sundance ing. The difference between a very good Wine Cellars find: Jos. Christoffel Jr. wine at two years old and that same wine at 1982 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling five (with years to go) was simply Auslese ($36) — dazzling at over 20 years beautiful. old. The sugars and acidity had held the Last night, I sat to dinner with Soho wine perfectly. In its maturity, it was deli- Sandy and Peter Poet — perfect T-bones, cate and rich, silky smooth but still firm, a ’shrooms, baked spuds — and we poured flavor sensation of rare beauty. Raymond 1999 Napa Valley Reserve It takes a little money and a lot of self- Merlot ($24); the wine was a brilliant color, discipline (I admit being short on both), but aromas rich in fruits and oak, flavors of ripe if you can invest now and hide just a few of black cherries, cassis, chocolate, notes of these from yourself for even a few years in a coffee, very tasty. But clearly this was ado- good, cool place then “find” them at their lescent merlot; given even a few years to peak, you’ll discover why wine stirs such mature, it would show a satin grace to re- passions and commands such prices. place its awkward enthusiasm. Two nights ew L GIVE THE GIFT OF GOOD HEALTH! FRESH “ORGANICALLY GROWN” FRUITS & VEGETABLES DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR OR OFFICE EVERY WEEK BOXES STARTING AT: $25.00 For More Info Leave a Message: 344-5019 homegrowndelivery@hotmail.com Meet Patrick Jaboulet This Saturday from 4 to 6 pm at Sundance wines. Join us for a free tasting of superb Rhone wines and talk with the winemaker himself. We will also be offering the legendary 1989 Hermitage “La Chapelle” as a paid superpour. This Friday from 4 to 6 pm: 2001 German riesling Selected wines from the best vintage in 40 years and a superpour of 1975 Urziger-Wurzgarten, Riesling, Spatlese. 2470 ALDER ST. 687-WINE Open daily until 7pm ORWINES.COM O UR NEXT I NTRODUCTION TO W INE A PPRECIATION CLASS BEGINS TONIGHT, A PRIL 3, 2003 AT 7:30. A FEW SEATS REMAIN 28 APRIL 3, 2003 SUNDANCE W I N E C E L L A R S
