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About Applegater. (Jacksonville, OR) 2008-current | View Entire Issue (July 1, 2011)
Applegater Summer 2011 23 Of sloths and men By JaKoB shoCKey Dawn is a brisk moment on the island of Escudo de Veraguas. So near the equator, the sun breaks from the Caribbean with vigor. The whole event hardly lasts a half hour, the time it takes to get a pot of water boiling and steep coffee grounds. We took turns making coffee in the morning, so that the others might only need to crawl from their mosquito net and hammock when it was ready. We drank it black, with lots of sugar. In the Applegate, I never put sugar in my coffee. None of us brought utensils, so we drank out of coconut shell bowls fashioned by our machetes. Only now does it sound like a cliché. I am pursuing a career in wildlife medicine, and currently study at The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington. The pedagogy of this school is such that I am trusted with structuring my own education. This spring I took this education to the Comarca Ngöbe-Buglé, a roadless, indigenous region in northern Panama. I went to the mainland village of Kusapin, and 18 miles out to sea, to the island of Escudo de Veraguas. This story is not solely my own, for I traveled, ate and sweated with two other students, Samual Kaviar and Peter Sundberg. Much of this is written in the plural voice, for it could not have been experienced alone. We went as students of animal behavior (or ethology) to study the Pygmy Three-toed Sloth, yet also with a focus on conservation, for we had been well- versed in the issues of the island of Escudo beforehand. We stayed in Kusapin for a few days at a time between our trips to Escudo with a local boat captain. These expeditions lasted some six days in length; at this point we had often exhausted both water and energy and would return to town. As we went about surveying the pygmy sloth population and collecting behavioral data on Escudo, we used this time ashore to raise awareness of our purpose. Because we were white, and from the States, the immediate opinion of many was that we were on a privileged vacation. The Namibian conservationist Yet as students, we gave presentations in John Kasaona said, “Conservation will the classrooms of Kusapin and met with fail if it does not work to improve the life their mayor, talking always of Escudo’s of its local community.” We went to this singular value. Eventually it was this community with these words as rhetoric, investment in the community that shed yet they became a clear truth in our time our identity as tourists. there. Although tourism currently drives The island of Escudo is small, overfishing on Escudo, perhaps it could about 1.35 square miles, and lays low and also be its benefactor. This island is one dark green against the horizon, consisting of those last places of true wildness and its of a densely vegetated forest with patches potential for science is great. Yet currently, of mangrove, sheltered by a barrier reef. both scientists and travelers charter The island supports at least seven endemic expensive boats from the neighboring species of animals—one of these is the regions to reach its remote environment. pygmy sloth. Named to science in 2001 If this travel could instead be organized as Breadypus pygmaeus, it is the sixth extant through the Ngöbe people, the effect on species of sloth. The international Union their economy would be great. This would Pygmy Three-toed Sloth for Conservation of Nature has red-listed be the ultimate local incentive to protect the pygmy sloth as critically endangered. the island. I believe this is also the only way is what our race does. Perhaps this time It is threatened by both the fragility of its quiet pygmy sloth will avoid imminent we can take a different role. island biogeography extinction. The people of Kusapin have and recent habitat Conservation is requested our results as soon as we can believe this is also the only way fragmentation of the a big-money business have them translated into Spanish, so its quiet pygmy sloth will avoid island’s mangrove imminent extinction. and even now large that they might present our work before swamps within s u m s a r e b e i n g the regional congress in a bid for local which the pygmy collected to “protect” protection of the island. This is, of course, sloths live. These mangrove trees have been the island and its sloths from the Ngöbe. but one step, yet it is in the best direction, cut for the cooking fires of local fishermen, Conversations are taking place through the and I would conclude with this thought: who fish from Escudo’s reefs to supply Internet and within expensive resorts. The We are in a position of power due to our booming tourism in the neighboring Ngöbe are not part of this dialogue, nor do societal privilege in comparison to much region. A simple enough story; change the they have any knowledge about it. Within of this world. Perhaps as more stories of names and it is the story of many animals this conservation business, charismatic ecological struggle abroad like this one and people upon our planet. animals must be in imminent danger for accumulate, we can use this privilege Although many scientific papers people to donate money, yet if the problem in a more productive manner than we have been written about the island, we is solved locally, there ends the need for often do. We must utilize our access to were the first researchers to share our donations. Europeans and Americans are knowledge and resources in support of ideas with the local community. Even the efficient at finding beautiful land in need conservation, while respecting the rights fact that Escudo’s sloths were a distinct of ”saving,” and kicking out those people of the indigenous population. species came as a surprise to many of the who call it home, just “for the good” of Jakob Shockey • 541-846-0312 locals. As we shared what we knew from something. If history is any testament, this jakob.shockey@mac.com our college library and our own research This photo was taken approximately 90 feet above the forest floor, upon the island, we found the community while Jakob was learning to canopy climb on Isla Colón, Panama. to be greatly interested. More than that, our information on the singularity of their land, inspired pride. These people began to tell us that the island should be protected, for perhaps its biodiversity was a resource in itself. I Rogue Rogue is a lovely 7-year-old mare who’s looking for a home with natu- ral horsemanship experience. Adopt, Volunteer Donate, Visit us! Sanctuary One (541) 899-8627 www.Sanctuary One.org