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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (April 15, 2011)
JÄ -Jl. eatout APRIL 15. 2011 WWW.JUSTOUT.COM Come and Get It! Just Out serves up a feast of foodstuff Hello Portlandr We are opening a new store on in Raleigh Hills on April 3rd. Did you hear that? No? Listen closer. That’s the sound o f your stomach grum bling. Growling. And, perhaps after digesting these flavorful pages, growing. O f (first-, second- and fourth-) course, we love our food, whether cart or haute cuisine. And with a smorgasbord o f season’s eatings upon us— from the new Q_ Center farmers market to the third annual Dining Out for Life, early May’s Taste of the Nation to late June’s Basic Rights Oregon benefit Bites for Rights—what better time to prime our pal ates with profiles o f the city’s top chefs, ben efits and more? We’re getting ahead o f ourselves, though— and skipping past the most important meal of the day, breakfast. Or, for the a.m. challenged, brunch. We put it to the Facebook test, ask ing Just Out readers what local establishments are worth the wait, just in time for Easter, Mother’s Day and general summer brunchin’. And from Kenny &. Zuke’s to Tasty n Sons, Zell’s to Café Nell, Mother’s to Genie’s, Cup &. Saucer to The Country Cat, Bridges to Broder, you have both patience and good taste. Sister of Perpetual Indulgence Helen Baak says, “I’d wait in line for Screen Door any time,” as would Jess Jones, who calls it her “all-time favorite when I want savory, per fectly seasoned yum.'' Sherri Konin M ont gomery’s vote is for Vita Café, and Laura Seeton says, “Jam on Hawthorne is by far the best place I would wait for anytime for brek- kie.” Andy Yost gives props to Slappy Cakes, Three Degrees and Veritable Quandary. Su san Stewart loves Pine State Biscuits. Yvonne Lyman namechecks the Tin Shed on Alberta, praising what she calls “hands down the nic est [staff] in Portland.” Maia Godet waits in line “willingly” at the Cadillac Café— and she’s not the only one. As for specifics, Steven Dumais-Clark says, “Sully’s Café in Milwaukie has the best om elets ever, as well as fantastic homemade strawberry jam and apple butter.” Facebook- er “Doriloves Youall,” also fond o f Fong Chong’s Dim Sum, says the “best Benedict is at the James John [Café] in St.Joh n s— per fectly poached eggs every time, homemade English muffin[s] and the most amazing light buttery Hollandaise imaginable.” Esther Moe loves her Benedict at Milo’s City Café, Chloe Sophia Flora is keen on City State Diner, and Briana Buck recommends Biscuits Café and Shari’s. And to wash it down, according to Scott Jensen, “Darcy’s on Lombard and Fiske has the best Bloody Mary I’ve ever had.” Stomach grumbling yet? We thought so. With your appetite piqued, your hankering happening, your craving, um, cranking, may we present this issue’s specials? A vegetarian-turncd-craft bacon slab pur veyor. A Carnegie Fellow turned culinary fella. Rising chefs who’ve worked alongside legends in the field and are now staking their own claims to fame. A citywide cause for philanthropic foodies. A new farmers market at an ever evolving community hub. A bur geoning Mary-age o f burgers with benefits. From James Beard to Julia Child, Portland’s culinary connections run deep— sweet, savory and everything in between. Read on, no reservations required. —Amanda Schurr L ■M bs, •• _ lrt. j 4704 SW Scholls Ferry Rd. Out In The Kitchen Raising a glass to gay chefs by byron beck Portland Or, 97204 KETTLEMAN BAGEL COMPANY O r t l a t jC> The most famous chef to ever come out o f Oregon is James Beard, widely considered the quintessential American cook and the father o f American-style gourmet cooking. The late chef’s influence is so widespread that his New York home is now North America’s only his torical culinary center (and the site o f some kick-ass dinner parties). And the food indus try in which Beard served reveres him so highly that its most prestigious award cere mony bears his name. The hope is that, in the near future, Portland will be home to a year- round public market bearing his name as well. It’s a fitting tribute for Beard— who never let his sexuality get in the way o f his work and who once said, “By the time I was seven, I knew that I was gay.” In the following pages, a few other queer chefs who are currently making a name for themselves in Portland’s best kitchens. Sarah Schafer Tom Colicchio hanging over me watching As the top toque at the Pearl District’s my every move. Then we get the word that meat-centric Irving Street Kitchen, Sarah Julia Child is in the dining room. I could have Schafer is one o f a growing number o f female died! [I] spent my whole childhood watching executive chefs in Portland. her from the mini TV we h ad .... [The] order She’s also one who works on very little came in and it was all my station.” sleep. “I’m here 13 to 15 hours a day,” says Schafer says she didn’t even remember the Schafer, 37, when asked how much time she rest of service. After her shift, she packed up puts into her job. “I guess that’s a lot.” her knives and walked out of the restaurant. Still, she adds, “This is the place where I “As the door closed behind me, there she was. want to be.” Schafer has been fortunate enough She looked about 10 feet tall but with a cane to be able to say just that at critical junctures in and her driver was just opening her car door. I her culinary career, even at 24, when she met turned and froze,” Schafer recalls. “She saw me her childhood idol—Julia Child. and turned. Then she smiled and said, ‘Excel “It was the best and worst day o f my cook lent meal, my dear, simply amazing, bravo.’” ing career,” she explains o f a fateful evening The chance encounter affirmed for Schafer during her first week as line cook at New that she was on the right path, and that cook York’s vaunted Gramercy Tavern. “Saturday ing was to be her life’s work. And what work it night, 200 covers, [I] could have not been has become. Soon after graduating from the more overwhelmed, with [executive chef] Culinary Institute o f America in 1996, the
