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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (March 16, 2007)
36 iustout MARCH lb. 200/ eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout Epi ean BY JENNY NGUYEN The Denver Scramble s anyone whose 1-5 detour has traversed through the Kenton District in the past year already knows, North Denver is itch ing for some action. A slight jaunt off the well-traveled North Interstate Boulevard at Paul Bunyan (or the Dancin’ Bare) lands you in the midst of a neighborhixxl with potential larger than the big guy’s ax. Could it be the next hot hood? ■ ■ T se 6th ash 'Æ E-San Thai Cuisine • 8233 N. Denver Ave. Priding itself on continuing to be family-owned, E-San has now opened its third location. Though the restaurant seats quite a few and has a full-service bar tw area, it still lacks the atmosphere of its other locales. Awkwardly spacious, 1 felt like I was eating in a cafe teria, not a restaurant. The food is good, following The Melfin|Pot. J&M cafe a fondue restaurant Ù4* * SW 6th & Main Downtown Portland (503) 517-8960 breakfast & lunch suit with E-San s previous ventures, but the hit-and- miss menu can be like a shot in the dark. The pla duk pad phet, fried catfish stir fry, is fresh and delicious. The mee krop was like eating fried nixxlles coated in Heinz ketchup. Though the drinks made with Thai iced tea were ludicrously strong and tasty, the tom yum soup left much to be desired. Unfortunately, N0P0 folks fill the stands not for stellar Thai cuisine but rather out of necessity. Sure, it’s not some Greasy 503 230 0463 Over 100 locations nationwide www.nieltingpoi.coin Lotus Dragon joint, bur with expectations and rent on the rise, Denver can do better. Cup & Saucer • 8237 N. Denver Ave. Wine WiFi Magazines Crepes Spanking new and coolly outfitted to meet Northies’ hip demands, this C & S pays homage to the fact that bigger does not always mean better. Back when there was just the one on Hawthorne, there was a line to shovel heaping spoonfuls of vegan gravy into yer gullet; those were the days. Now you can get your fix anywhere, even here! Oh, press c how things change. Though there is less of a wait (there’s still a line on weekends), the service is un responsive, the food mediocre and the magic gone. A gorgeous comer spot in a newly constructed build Lunch, Brunch, Dinner & More ing in what could be Portland’s last “untouched” area, Cup &. Saucer will do the trick, but fer now, travel the distance elsewhere—it’ll be worth it. Open Daily at 10am 2621 SE Clinton St. Pizza Fino • 8225 N. Denver Ave. Hold onto yer hats: The pie here is gonna knock yer socks off. Amazingly quaint and trendy, this restaurant hides a full bar and full-size dining room behind its cover as a pizza bar. Step inside and you’ll be floored by Portland artist Hi-iH’s lanterns lining one wall and a fancy array of booze lining the other. The gourmet pizza is divine, and you can get it by the slice, too. The perfectly crisp cnist and expertly assembled flavors will astound you. Sopresatta, pancetta, prosciutto and pork sausage are a few of the meat options that go to show Fino is not f’in around. Don’t be fooled—it is first and foremost an Italian restaurant with pasta specials like fusilli al Fino and orechiette Bolognese, but God damn if the pizza ain’t A horoscope themed restaurant Tuei - Sun 9am • 11 pm 500 NW 21 it Ave. Fri ■ Sat open til late 503-517-8855 www.virgoandpitces.com 704 NW 21 Ave, Portland, Oregon 97209 ’Open at 5pm Monday-Saturday so?-226-6126 for reservations • www.lucystable.coni the best north o’ Bumside! For truly amazing pie in a super-low-key setting, look no further. © J enny N guyen is a freelance food writer with an oral fixation. Pacify her needs by commenting to efHqueerean@comcast.net.
